Plastic (FDM) or Resin (LCD) 3D Printing?! Which is BEST for Cosplay & Props?!
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- Опубліковано 3 чер 2024
- FDM vs SLA! PLASTIC VS RESIN! DAVID VS...David...?
When looking to jump into the hobby of cosplay and props making; the options are endless! So many printers, so little time! Not only do you need to work with a budget you even need to pick what style printer you want!
What's best? Plastic FDM or Resin SLA? Let's talk about it in this video! I'll be covering the differences between the 2! Hopefully I can help you make up your mind about it all!
Enjoy!
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▼TIME STAMPS
0:00 - The big question
1:25 - What you need to get started
2:55 - Build Size Comparison
4:00 - Material Cost Comparison
4:44 - Quality Comparison
6:29 - How they work?
9:52 - Conclusion
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#3DPrinting #resin #plastic - Розваги
I love the contrast between plastic and resin, like they aren't meant to be put against each other, but used together. I've been looking into cosplay for a couple years now, and this is definitely a huge help!
A good way to reduce the cost of resin is, don't get the official wash and cure station for 200$ but get a uv lamp and uv powered rotating plate and a large jar for cleaning. I did it all for ~50$
Great video but one other thing I would’ve mentioned would’ve been how much better resin can print clear, you can basically print any sort of lens or crystal that you simply wouldn’t be able to print with an FDM printer
For FDM printing I have been using Variable Layer Height feature more lately. It really helps the postprocessing by reducing the layer lines and adds a little more detail where you need it. For example most helmets I will start the print with a 0.28mm layer height but the areas where layer lines are prone to occur, like the top of the helmet for example, I can set it to print a 0.12mm (or less) layer height. You can add this function as many times as you need. So you can get a good balance of quality and speed where you need it.
Thank you so much for taking the time to show and explain the differences in these two processes
Props to you my friend for explaining this so perfectly and simply!
It has always been a go to thing in the community to fight for one side that is either FDM or SLA, but its more like why not choose both and get the best of both worlds if you can for me.
Love the work you are doing.... keep it up! Wish you all the best! :D
I love your videos. So detailed, thorough, and knowledgeable. Your videos are an inspiration to me as I lean towards taking the plunge into 3D printing. You provide a great service.
Great comparison, Frank!! tYou nailed it. I'l be recommending this video to amateur and veteran builders, who may not know much about resin printing and the upsides/downsides of it. Well done
Thank you so much! I’ve been wondering about this but you’ve convinced me I don’t need a resin printer at the moment for my cosplay. FDm is still good for me!
He perfectly explained how SLA printers work. I've always struggled with understanding how they work and he just explained it so perfectly. It feels good to finally understand
Thanks Frank, your stuff is always awesome. Thanks for breaking this all down.
Thank you so much Frankly, you quiet explained the differences in a simple and a nice way.
I am absolutely addicted to both. What I do is blow statues WAAAAAAY up in scale and print the huge elaborate bases on the Kobra Max. When my Superman project is done I will send ya pics on FB. I love this chit.
Thank you so much for the videos Frank they've helped me out a lot. You are great at what you do!
This is a great comparison between the two types of printers. Well said!
Try Scotland there’s NO SUN
As a Scottish person I concur there is no sun
Not much different down here in wales
How much of the sky is overcast with clouds in a daily basis?
@@seekertosecrets you can see the moon sometimes
Really ?!?! I guess that's good for yall gingers. Hahaha( no offense)
Glad I got into it when I did. Started with the mars 3 pro to see how I felt about resin printing. 6 months later I got a Saturn 3 Ultra and just printed a full sized Ichigo Hollow mask in one print no problem and the layer lines are virtually invisible after the priming. Next year will be insane for resin printing I believe.
I have 2 of each, fdm and resin printers. I find that if I make a helmet in parts on a resin printer, if you drop it, it will shatter like glass. With FDM it might break but you can plastic weld it back together. So I too make details with resin and make larger parts fdm. (I also made my own cure station with ultraviolet leds in a box and wash them in a large plastic container. cheaper but works). Love your videos.
transparent prints are my #1 reason for resin
Perfect explanation 👌 awesome tips as usual 🙂 can't wait to see more awesome builds with this combination of skill
A quick tip from a resin 3d Printer user, as for resin toxicity it differs from one person to another, for me many times I touch the resin with my bare hands with no problems at all! , the only thing that really got me is the resin fumes which were really awful to my chest, so treat it with respect but do not be afraid at the same time from using it
And finally, regarding the cure station, this stuff is "USELESS" and a waste of money, I made a super cheap cure station with only 2 UV flashlights inside a card box and covered by silver foil paper to increase the light bounce and I close the box with a mirror to increase the bounce even better, thank me later for this one x))
Also, Ethyl alcohol works good for me due to the high cost and the lack to find Isopropyl alcohol
Love your videos every time I have a question on 3d printing you post a video on exactly what I need
I completely agree with this entire video.
With filament printers they are great for printing armors and props for cosplay and if someone wants something more detailed they could go with resin but there is one minor downside when using resin and that it can shrink especially in the cure phase.
I would love to use resin but my current housing arrangement will not allow it. Not enough space to safely secure it, but i appreciate this video. Gave me a lot to think about
That's basically my goal. I have a filament 3d printer and my buddy took my resin one because he does model train stuff so I'll be picking up another resin one. You should have mentioned that resin printing can print more on the plate and still be done at the same speed because it's layer by layer but good vid. Resin is much more of a pain but the quality is so much better
amazing , had no idea how all this was done
Love the vid man. I wanted to print in 1/4 scale so I got elegoo Jupiter for the build volume. So good not to print a lot of separate parts and glue seam lines things like that
❤️Love to watch you and get to know about More things like this is amazing... love from India 🇮🇳
Perfect video exaclly what i was searching for - thank you
Thank you this is awesome! Your explanations are amazing and so informative. Ty!!
This video was able to finally explain to my fiancé the difference between reels and resin in a way she understood . Thank you .
Yay
Tip: print yourself an fdm or resin platform pillar for your wash and cure. To raise the platform. That way the bottom gets easier exposed too :)
first!! also amazing videos Frank love your stuff!
Way I explain it is plastic for majority of cosplay and larger items but figures or my favorite which is statues Def use a resin printer for awesome detail
Sometimes I just watch the videos to support. Keep up the amazing work!
Nothing like a Saturday morning with a new Frankly Built video... 😊
hey Frank hope you had a good vacation and I'm glad you're back but I kinda wanna see a beskar ingot prop the paint jobs pretty cool; either that or once again a civil warrior helmet, or a winter soldier arm. In case you haven't noticed I have a lot of ideas for videos and not enough money or subscribers to be noticed making these videos.
i think if you have a HUGE resin printer, you can print it in one piece and warping won't matter as much bc it'll all warp evenly. but if you have a normal consumer resin printer, i think it'll be worse bc you'll need to print it in seperate pieces and they may warp differently.
Thanks for explanation, apprechiated.
Bro your the best you are so inspiring
I have a Saturn 2 8k but have a Neptune 3 max on order and watch your videos with regards to cosplay stuff. Resin for my small items like rings and the max for big things.
I am glad you finally busted the resin cherry.
Im gonna call it before hand, because as with every video like this... ever. The answer is depends.
I'd love to get into resin printing, but right now, I don't have the room. What I want in the print room is not just the resin printers, but a shelf with light-tight doors for resin storage, several cleaning and curing stations, as well as a portable UV flashlight that I can shine around after cleaning everything up to ensure there is no toxic resin lurking anywhere on the floor, shoes, etc.
It really does compliment FDM printing. Heck, you can use SLA printing resin to paint onto FDM prints, then shove them in a curing station to smooth them.
For functional prints (a bracket I use to hang something on a wall), right now, FDM is in the lead, but some newer SLA resins are getting pretty strong and give properly printed FDM stuff a run for their money.
ur adorable and also informative, thanks for this!
Just a note about resin printers, if you put it in an unfinished basement, it might need to be heated to keep the liquid at a good temperature. I spent way too long figuring that out and ended up with a plant growing warming mat and insulated cover to keep all the heat in
I started out 3d printing miniatures so resin was an easy choice. It definitely has plenty of drawbacks. I go through a ton of gloves and paper towels. The resin smells kinda nasty but the IPA is actually the worse offender. Frankly built is actually using some of the best resin on the market (that I know of) I use the same stuff. I have a Saturn S. which for me and what I'm doing is plenty big but I still have to outsource any really large items to my buddy who has an FDM. They're just good at different things... and honestly a lot of ink has been spilled about the resin printing process and how much post processing there is but honestly its not that bad. Once you've been doing it for a while and you have the procedure down as well as have all of the necessary equipment it goes pretty fast. You just have to respect the goo
Hey Frank. Good overview but also highlight that resin is vastly more dangerous to work with. Look at the Safety Data Sheet which details the various hazards. I’ve seen people get this on their hands, splashes in their eye and many cases caused a severe autoimmune response and ever serious chemical burns Then there’s the post processing chemical hazards as well. My background is working and managing a research lab that does 3D printing. I’m always getting updates on precautions and abatement methods. Also, with FDM, fume mitigation, fire suppression devices and enclosures are good ideas. Please print safe, everyone
Can you elaborate a bit ? Are resin fumes always dangerous or primarily during the movement/heating process. Would an enclosed printer with inline filtration suffice for resin ?
@@mml3140 the resin is always an inhalation hazard as the Safety Sheet per manufacturer will elaborate on. Some resin printers include charcoal air filters inside of them to help mitigate the fumes. There’s many things you can do when using these chemicals - safety goggles , splash guard (apron) and gloves I don’t mean to scare you away from resin. Just understand the risks and work on addressing them.
@@WhereNerdyisCool I keep it in a zipped grow tent with an in-line filter. When I open I have a organic respirator on. But the ambient and leftover fumes still make me nervous that's why I ask.
@M ML these resins are (meth)acrylate based. You should always take precautions with the fumes. Acrylates can also be irritants, make sure you check the SDS before printing anything that will have long term skin contact.
@@chrisemerson9587 As far as contact I try to never skin contact. Even when cured I get paranoid and won't unless it's painted over. The SDS usually has fumes in a category 2.
Exactly ! Use resin where you need it !
For miniatures figures (like warhammer): Resin
For Figures/statues up to 1/4 scale: Resin (you can use PLA for big things like the base of the figure)
For figures/statues bigger than 1/4 scale: PLA (you can use resin for small details like the head or hands for a better quality)
I think your Thor’s hammer example was perfect, no need to print a big box on a resin printer but also good luck getting the super fine details on an fdm, it’s definitely not a question of which is better just more of that they each have their own benefits
Could you either make a video or just tell me which are the best resin printer, I've been looking to get into it and you always give the best advice.
One of the biggest deciding factors for me after quality would be durability. Resin prints are often very fragile compared to FDM (depending how the FDM was printed that is), but there are various resins that can improve this (flexible, tough, etc) and be even more durable, but often at a higher expense. After durability comes speed, resin is much faster than most FDM printers, and the time is linear to the height, so 10 small objects prints in the same time as 1.
Bonus for resin is you can mix to average out qualities, and transparent really is perfect. For FDM, with external parts you can do multi-color/material, whereas in resin you can't really do multiple colours without multiple prints/pieces.
With FDM, you can configure all the settings much easier without much worry for infill and walls. While you can do this with resin, you have to be careful that any hollow objects have a drain hole, otherwise uncured resin inside can slowly seep out (even a year or two after printing). On the bright side, repairing resin prints is sometimes easier than FDM - a UV flashlight and a little swab of resin in between and it's as if it never broke, meanwhile in FDM, you need to melt plastic, often leaving some deformities.
Another downside to resin is temperature control. If it's too cold or too warm, the print will likely fail. Some printers have heated vats or people have modded them for it to try and combat this. I just don't print resin in the winter unless I have a heater in the room on 😆
Big thanks❤
Resin isn't really meant to print huge simple prints (like a helmet or a sword). It can be used to print small sub part of a prop.
If I only take into account the final result: resin is too brittle, heavier and more expensive. it's also far less geometrical accurate (more warping, bending, retracting).
I would keep resin printer for miniature printing or small detailed part of a prop (like the inner detailed part in your Iron Man helmet).
I can see that.
This is true of an all acrylate/methacrylate based resin. But hybrid resins (epoxy + acrylate) have excellent dimensional stability and can print very large parts (F150 grills) without warping. Unfortunately, hybrid resins currently only work in large frame SLA printers because the photoninitators they use are in the 355 nm range (via lasers), putting them outside the capability of LED based light engines used in small resin printers
@@chrisemerson9587 Well, we could also talk about SLS printing with powder... But I was only mentioning the options available for most people.
There are many ways to circumvent to problems I talked about but that's not really easy for the general public. Which is one of the main goal of the 3d printing hobby: reach as many people as possible.
But you're totally right.
@@chrisemerson9587 ya but you start getting into some really toxic resin then.
BEST video ever about Resin vs Filament 3d printers.
👁️👁️👃👁️👁️🙏
Thank you so much, subbed. 👍
Picked up a resin printer the other week to do that make the small detail bits for my bigger prints, it does smell bad resin does haha
FDM for sure i printed the mk39 on my ender 3 so it can be done yeah it takes time but 3 weeks that's all it took
Thanks for this I am looking into buying a 3D printer this year and was now sure how I wanted to go, know I know I am in no way in a position to use a resin printer.
11:05 - 11:06 - This is awesome - noted. :D. Good video. thank you.
Funny you say that, I'm in England currently trying to cure a massive resin Conan the Barbarian Base section outside that is to large for my Curing station. It is raining.....
Please tell me you are making the bottom lip for that resin mk85
Awesome this was a question I was having
What's the best glue you use for your 3d prints?
By the way your cosplay is amazing.
Chitubox has an anti aliasing setting that can be fine tuned to get rid of vertical stepping. Lychee has a surface smoothing feature as well, but slicing can take several hours to render if the file is too big, so I put all of my supports on by hand on Lychee then export to Chitubox to slice it.
It’s worth experimenting, but it looks damn near flawless when you get it right. It’s basically ready for primer if you dry and cure it carefully.
Hey i saw you mentioned chitubox my version has been turning every stl file into a mildly squashed version is that what vertical stepping is?
Muchiro katana too!! What is this!!! ❤😂
2:23 it's absolutely grey, wet and miserable here as I'm watching this vid 🤣
When will the Walsh 3d mark 85 helmet video come out
Hoping to buy a FDM printer, but god do I want a LCD printer...
GOOOOD xD
Welp, I guess learning Blender is my first priority :P
Creating a workflow for washing and curing can be a slight pain as well, instead of when it's done on fdm breaking off supports.
My rule of thumb is if it's bigger than my first, it's going into the FDM printer, smaller it's going to my resin printer lol.
Awesome video! I was wondering what the difference is between the two in terms of durability of the final product?
Thanks
Great video, I'm a HighSchool Engineering teacher and 3D printing fanatic. I've got both Resin (EPAX X1 and Sonic Mighty 4K) and a FFF (Creality Ender 5 Plus). I've lost track of the number of times I've explained this same comparison. That hundred moving parts on the FFf also make for a bigger learning/setup for getting the first good print vs Resin. Also, why wouldn't all the desiccant/ dryer equipment, filler, dry storage for filament, etc that is used with FFF not "take up space"?
I always ask the Person what are you wanting to make fine detail and small to medium --> resin Medium to large lower detail FFF. Headed off to your Manfo help video!! Thanks!
I loved the whole video but you knocked the cost comparison analysis portion out of the park! It was clear and concise!
Hi Frank, I love the honesty and how to apply both SLA and FDM. I want to add resin printing to my FDM farm. For a newbie which printer would you start with? I want to print Nikko Industries flexies and toy hot rod body models.
Can you please make a tutorial on your GOTG game Nova helmet? I thought you had said something about doing a video on it a little over a year ago. I'd love to see how you did it ❤
For a power ranger helmet plastic would be the way to go right? I’m a novice with 3D printing and this video has been really helpful!
Frank love the video! I just remembered you said you were making a tutorial on the Walsh helmet? Any update? No rush or anything just wondering
Hey Frank, big fan, also where did you get the STL for your Nova Helmet? The black one
Now they have a $800 Resin printer with a 300x300 plate, that's what I want to order.
I started with resin, could not work with it untill I had another round of disposable income to make up an area to clean
Hey Frank, I've got a quick question if you have a sec. I'm waiting on my Neptune Pro to ship from Matterhackers, and plan on doing some helmets and weapons for displays, but one thing I was also looking at are figures in the Sideshow scale. I understand there's a lot of post processing involved with cleaning them up, but would too much detail be lost in the process to make it worth it trying? The Neptune pro is about my spending limit for now, not sure if I can afford to step up to a resin printer.
Use resin before primer filler works wonders
Hey everyone , Frank just wanted to say your advice on alot of this has helped me with a bunch of my prints between printing, painting and doing some work on things. That said I run into an issue with failing supports from time to time, its mostly the smaller ones I pit a brim to try and keep them on build plate, but still fail. Was wonder if maybe it could do with support density being too low? Or maybe I should try and beef up those smaller ones with custom supports, or lower/raise support travel speed? Using a cr 10s prov2 with a bondtech ddx extruder
I really like your analysis of FDM vs Resin. I’ve had a couple FDM printers and am looking for a resin option to supplement. If you had to pick one size, do you have a recommendation for that supplemental resin printer?
i have one of the biggest 3d printers you can get (that i know of a Neptune 3 max) and the smallest resin printer that can print a small figure at most cost nearly double my printer its is insane not counting all the extras like a curing station and the resin
I have a resin printer in my cart for 1000 dollars that is just as big as the biggest fdm volume plate he held up. at this point, I'm paying for detail quality, and I'm fine with that.
frank for the win all the time
Also fdm amd resin have different repair needs. Resin is easier to level and clear up whilst fdm can be a pain with jams, nozzles, tubes, levelling, every screw could mean a failed print.
Definitely fdm is better for cosplay i have both resin cost alot more and the build plate is smaller. If you sand the filament one it gets better and painted. The resin is more for minitures or smaller stuff and stuff that had alot details.
cool! For a beginner, so these are the 2 "common" methods?
I got a lot of stuff I need to finish sanding. I created a boot last that I need to sand down so I can make leather boots from it.
I would love to see your opinion on Polylite CosPLA! It could save a ton of time and money on post processing with FDM prints! My buddy showed me some prints with it after he sanded for about 15 minutes and it was SMOOTH.
I have a few rolls and I don’t like it. It feels brittle and doesn’t sand any better IMO
@@FranklyBuilt did you try both formulas? The type A and type B?
what type of filament do you usually use for your cosplay stuff?
Mr Frank have you 3D printed a Tulak Hord helmet
I'm looking to get a larger resin printer, I'd like to print some helmets and have less finishing work. Would you recommend the Halot Mage Pro with its increased speed, or something with a bigger build volume? I'm trying to keep it around $1000 US.
Hi I’m a complete beginner, and I was just thinking of starting 3d printing and I like the bambu lab X1C. I was wondering if I can use this with my Mac computer or does it operate with the need for any computer
Frank , could you try a FMD print and finish it with UV resin poored over and cured to smooth it , I know its a method that some have tried, is it something you've done or would try.
The best resine for Fonctionnal item is Résione Anti-Impact, I print ironman helmet unbreakeable