Recently discovered your carburetor information channel and it is the best one that I have ever seen! I have a carburetor on a old Homelite blower that only has a low speed adjustment. I am working on rebuilding it now and I have never seen it run so it will be interesting on how well it runs when I am finished with it.
Another cause i have found for an engine to stall after coming off throttle is a metering lever set too high, even with the proper mixture screw setting if the lever is set above where it should it will cause the engine to suck a lot of fuel when the throttle is released and make it slow down or even stall
Also, that information about the independent or dependent carburetor mixture screws is really cool, never stopped to think about it but it makes perfect sense
0:00 1. Difficult to start engine. 0:42 2. Engine bogs on acceleration. 1:30 3. Engine splutters on acceleration. 2:06 4. Low power at full throttle. 2:47 5. Engine running rough with excessive smoke when at full throttle. 3:22 6. Engine idles too fast and idle adjustment is unresponsive. 4:04 7. Difficult to start engine with fuel out of the muffler. 4:23 8. Engine RPM drops excessively after full throttle or dies completely. 5:00 9. Engine stalls when left idling for a short period of time. 5:52 10. Engine RPMs change when you turn your engine on the side. 7:49 BONUS TIP! Which screw do we adjust first?!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Oh I missed this, went to the pub. ;-) It's all good, some of the time stamps could have been a second or two later but close enough. My OCD is mostly satisfied.
As I said in a comment about one of your videos regarding the Chinese Honda cloned GX35 engine, which I was trying to tune I was thinking that it might be either an air leak through the check valve inside the metering body of the carburettor or something like that but since you said that the high speed screw might need adjusting then I might have to remove the brass sealing plug from the carburettors body to get access to the high speed screw which is uncovered on some of the Chinese Hondas carburettors but in my case with the OEM & aftermarket carburettor which I have they're covered. What it was doing with the new aftermarket carburettor is stumbling then stalling as It came down to an idle then I would restart it then it wouldn't idle until I readjusted the low speed mixture screw then it would play up again. It would also start in the mornings when the engine was cold but it wouldn't idle until I adjusted the low speed mixture screw so I refitted the original Honda carburettor which seems to have fixed the problem !
Hmmm I recently acquired a Mac 10-10 and it seems to suffer from Symptom 6: Engine idles too fast and idle adjustment is unresponsive. When I start it it's racing. I backed the idle screw out and it eventually slowed a little but then at some point sped up again.
Thank you! It’s called either a “rotary” or a “barrel” type carb :) The thing I like most is you can run them on the edge of lean at idle for excellent trigger response and they don’t lean bog like the more common butterfly type.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks a lot for the quick response :) Am an RC modelller and your videos are really helpful in understanding these carbs, tuning them and troubleshooting. Subscribed :)
Thank you. My Echo PB265 starts well and revs well but after ten minutes of running it begins to lose power and, although just my conjecture, it seems to run hotter than previously. Might you have any suggestions to resolve this?
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you for taking the time to help on this matter. I haven't altered the high-speed adjuster screw so far because this blower has run flawlessly for almost a decade and, as implied above; it still performs beautifully with the H screw still concealed beyond the plastic plug--that is, until it gets warm or perhaps closer to hot. During those first ten-to-fifteen minutes, it responds immediately to throttle movement, neither bogging nor burbling. I did remove the muffler and although the port appears normal (no heavy deposits of carbon) the spark arrestor is destroyed. I wondered if the main body of baffling behind the arrestor gets so hot, perhaps red hot, that a new spark arrestor screen might resolve the conundrum. Yet, if you still consider that high-speed adjustment (enrichment) remains the best option, I'll try it. Thank you again.
Coil failure was responsible for the Echo blower engine stopping ten minutes after starting. The difficulty was unlikely to be caused by the carburetor because I had access to another that produced the same result when warm. The fascinating thing was that though the spare carburetor had a larger diameter venturi, it worked amazingly well, at least for the first ten minutes. Thank you again for your wonderful series of instructional videos.
I have an independent carburetor that works in the middle and not WOT. It operates well except in the mid throttle range where it will slowly lose rpm at a constant throttle position. I will open it up a little more by the throttle to which it will surge to higher rpm. What is a good mid range fix? (modifications are possible if suggested) it is the walbro 32
Great vids.. Got symptom 2 on my MS362 you say "lean symtom on idle" however upon removing the shroud no visible L H screws so i am assuming mtronic model.. Does that mean an electronic carb and could anything be done ??
Yes it is electronic in that case, no fuel adjustments possible sadly! Remind me what symptom 2 was (been a while since I watched the video) and I may be able to help.
You don’t have to be, it’s literally just a second before it dies and there is a lot of residual oil to keep it safe. Just like running out of fuel, the engine cuts out and you refill the tank, thanks for watching!
Are the springs under the metering valve different for different carburetors? While attempting to overhaul carburetor on ryobi leaf blower RY-09440 I lost the spring. Trying to find a replacement . Thanks
Hi Tom , I just rebuild a chainsaw changed gaskets ,sealings, new piston but when I accelerate it wants to die . If I accelerate gradually it gets eventually full throttle with no problem , could be the main nozzle in the carburetor. I checked the carburetor with hand pump but could not check the main one , the little drillings are ok , checked them with wd40 .I didn't want to take it out but could that be the problem . From t , l ,h screws the problem could not be resolved so I think the main nozzle is bad .
Hey! It sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me. Did you do a pressure and vacuum test on the saw? That’s the #1 most important test to do on ANY 2 stroke. Once you’ve done that. I’d say start from the fuel filter and work your way to the carb checking if it holds pressure and vacuum. You need a tool like this Mityvac Pressure & Vacuum Tester - amzn.to/3vysI3V. You can get cheaper ones, just make sure it does pressure and vacuum :)
If this video helped you, please consider clicking on the THANKS button above to support my channel 🙌
Recently discovered your carburetor information channel and it is the best one that I have ever seen! I have a carburetor on a old Homelite blower that only has a low speed adjustment. I am working on rebuilding it now and I have never seen it run so it will be interesting on how well it runs when I am finished with it.
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoy it :)
You make very Educational videos.
Thank you :)
I was only googling to find this info last week mate. Thanks for the cool tutorial, well done 👍🏻
Pleased it helped!!
Fantastic tutorial - Thanks!!
You’re welcome, thank you :)
This one's a keeper - it's going straight to the Pool Room.
Hi awesome :)
As always i enjoyed the video. Cheers
Thank you!
Nice info bud 👍
Thanks for watching mate !
Excellent explanation.
Thx!
You’re welcome :)
Great reference video 👍
Thanks!
top draw info m8 could learn alot of you buddy
Thanks Ronnie mate I really appreciate the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Really useful, thanks.
You’re welcome!
Very informative video Tom. I give it 3 shrimps on the barby. 🙂👍
Hahah love it 😂 thanks John mate :)
LoL, anytime brother 🙂
🤣 Sorry Mr Henry, I could only afford 3 shrimps.
@@Big_Johns I’ll take the bucket of old
Filters and diaphragms 😂🤣
LoL Tom!!! 🤣
Fantastic, thank you very much!
You’re welcome! :)
This is some great info. I'll have to Wright it down for my cheet sheets.
Great! Glad you enjoyed it
Another cause i have found for an engine to stall after coming off throttle is a metering lever set too high, even with the proper mixture screw setting if the lever is set above where it should it will cause the engine to suck a lot of fuel when the throttle is released and make it slow down or even stall
Also, that information about the independent or dependent carburetor mixture screws is really cool, never stopped to think about it but it makes perfect sense
Precious information 😃 thanks 🙏👍 5 🌟
You’re welcome :)
Dependent carb, adjust the high speed circuit first. Wish I knew this 2 years ago! Thanks Mate!!
Pleasure Kenny!!
Very informative video Tom.
Thanks Al :)
Thanks for the video, the best I've seen so far.
Thank you!
Thank you!!!
You’re welcome!!
Just subscribed dude. I thought I was already sub’d sorry about that. I’m in now lol
Haha all good :)
You are the best. Very very good and informativ video, Thanks 😊
Thank you!
Thank you so much.
You’re welcome!
Useful information.
Thanks Ben 👍
Very useful Information Thomas Ireland
Thanks!
0:00 1. Difficult to start engine.
0:42 2. Engine bogs on acceleration.
1:30 3. Engine splutters on acceleration.
2:06 4. Low power at full throttle.
2:47 5. Engine running rough with excessive smoke when at full throttle.
3:22 6. Engine idles too fast and idle adjustment is unresponsive.
4:04 7. Difficult to start engine with fuel out of the muffler.
4:23 8. Engine RPM drops excessively after full throttle or dies completely.
5:00 9. Engine stalls when left idling for a short period of time.
5:52 10. Engine RPMs change when you turn your engine on the side.
7:49 BONUS TIP! Which screw do we adjust first?!
Wow thanks! Pinned this comment to the top :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Cheers. I was still editing it, tweaking the times but can't anymore, I guess because it's pinned now?
@@Syncop8rNZ oh no, I’ll unpin it, let you do what you need and then re pin it.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Oh I missed this, went to the pub. ;-)
It's all good, some of the time stamps could have been a second or two later but close enough.
My OCD is mostly satisfied.
Good video Tom🙂
Thanks Bill mate :)
Hi, how to adjust an dependent carb?
Thanks to You I dominate the low jet.
🇵🇦🤟
Video coming soon :)
As I said in a comment about one of your videos regarding the Chinese Honda cloned GX35 engine, which I was trying to tune I was thinking that it might be either an air leak through the check valve inside the metering body of the carburettor or something like that but since you said that the high speed screw might need adjusting then I might have to remove the brass sealing plug from the carburettors body to get access to the high speed screw which is uncovered on some of the Chinese Hondas carburettors but in my case with the OEM & aftermarket carburettor which I have they're covered.
What it was doing with the new aftermarket carburettor is stumbling then stalling as It came down to an idle then I would restart it then it wouldn't idle until I readjusted the low speed mixture screw then it would play up again.
It would also start in the mornings when the engine was cold but it wouldn't idle until I adjusted the low speed mixture screw so I refitted the original Honda carburettor which seems to have fixed the problem !
Woo! Glad you got it sorted :)
Hmmm I recently acquired a Mac 10-10 and it seems to suffer from Symptom 6: Engine idles too fast and idle adjustment is unresponsive.
When I start it it's racing. I backed the idle screw out and it eventually slowed a little but then at some point sped up again.
Very informative, thanks a lot, by the way, the other carb, not the walbro type, what is that one called?
Thank you! It’s called either a “rotary” or a “barrel” type carb :) The thing I like most is you can run them on the edge of lean at idle for excellent trigger response and they don’t lean bog like the more common butterfly type.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks a lot for the quick response :) Am an RC modelller and your videos are really helpful in understanding these carbs, tuning them and troubleshooting. Subscribed :)
Thank you. My Echo PB265 starts well and revs well but after ten minutes of running it begins to lose power and, although just my conjecture, it seems to run hotter than previously. Might you have any suggestions to resolve this?
Hmmm, you could try opening the H screw 1/8 of a turn and see if that helps?
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you for taking the time to help on this matter. I haven't altered the high-speed adjuster screw so far because this blower has run flawlessly for almost a decade and, as implied above; it still performs beautifully with the H screw still concealed beyond the plastic plug--that is, until it gets warm or perhaps closer to hot. During those first ten-to-fifteen minutes, it responds immediately to throttle movement, neither bogging nor burbling. I did remove the muffler and although the port appears normal (no heavy deposits of carbon) the spark arrestor is destroyed. I wondered if the main body of baffling behind the arrestor gets so hot, perhaps red hot, that a new spark arrestor screen might resolve the conundrum. Yet, if you still consider that high-speed adjustment (enrichment) remains the best option, I'll try it. Thank you again.
Coil failure was responsible for the Echo blower engine stopping ten minutes after starting. The difficulty was unlikely to be caused by the carburetor because I had access to another that produced the same result when warm. The fascinating thing was that though the spare carburetor had a larger diameter venturi, it worked amazingly well, at least for the first ten minutes. Thank you again for your wonderful series of instructional videos.
So the low speed screw is like the drone on a set of bagpipes.
No idea as I don’t play bagpipes
I have an independent carburetor that works in the middle and not WOT. It operates well except in the mid throttle range where it will slowly lose rpm at a constant throttle position. I will open it up a little more by the throttle to which it will surge to higher rpm. What is a good mid range fix? (modifications are possible if suggested) it is the walbro 32
These don’t have a dedicated mid range circuit. Open the H screw 1/4 turn :)
ok thanks and lets say I'd like to add a dedicated mid range circuit, any advice where to look for reference or your thoughts?@@VintageEngineRepairs
Great vids..
Got symptom 2 on my MS362 you say "lean symtom on idle" however upon removing the shroud no visible L H screws so i am assuming mtronic model.. Does that mean an electronic carb and could anything be done ??
Yes it is electronic in that case, no fuel adjustments possible sadly! Remind me what symptom 2 was (been a while since I watched the video) and I may be able to help.
I am concerned though that closing the high-speed screw with the engine running may damage the engine, but cutting off the oil.
You don’t have to be, it’s literally just a second before it dies and there is a lot of residual oil to keep it safe. Just like running out of fuel, the engine cuts out and you refill the tank, thanks for watching!
fair enough!!@@VintageEngineRepairs
Are the springs under the metering valve different for different carburetors? While attempting to overhaul carburetor on ryobi leaf blower RY-09440 I lost the spring. Trying to find a replacement . Thanks
They do vary, but honestly I have interchanged them without any problem whatsoever.
What if during idle, the RPM goes up and down?
That’s often caused by an air leak. I’d suggest pressure and vacuum testing the engine :)
What does 4 stroking mean?
It’s when a 2 stroke engine fires every 4 strokes rather than 2 due to an overly rich condition and ineffective scavenging of the charge!
Hi Tom , I just rebuild a chainsaw changed gaskets ,sealings, new piston but when I accelerate it wants to die . If I accelerate gradually it gets eventually full throttle with no problem , could be the main nozzle in the carburetor. I checked the carburetor with hand pump but could not check the main one , the little drillings are ok , checked them with wd40 .I didn't want to take it out but could that be the problem . From t , l ,h screws the problem could not be resolved so I think the main nozzle is bad .
Hey! It sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me. Did you do a pressure and vacuum test on the saw? That’s the #1 most important test to do on ANY 2 stroke. Once you’ve done that. I’d say start from the fuel filter and work your way to the carb checking if it holds pressure and vacuum. You need a tool like this Mityvac Pressure & Vacuum Tester - amzn.to/3vysI3V. You can get cheaper ones, just make sure it does pressure and vacuum :)
I did that too because as you said in one video to check if the work is done good (forgot to mention). the filter I did not changed although.
Thank you so much.
You’re very welcome :)