2-Stroke Carburetor Diaphragms Different Colours. This is why!
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2023
- CHAINSAW CARBURETOR DIAPHRAGM: Different Colors Explained!
The video you mentioned highlights an important aspect of 2-stroke carburetor maintenance, specifically the different types of diaphragms used in these carburetors and how they can affect the performance of chainsaws and other 2-stroke engines. Let's delve deeper into the topic:
Rubberized Carburetor Diaphragm (Black):
Structure and Function: This diaphragm is black and known for its flexibility. It is highly efficient at pumping gasoline fuel through the carburetor.
Ethanol Sensitivity: Vulnerable to ethanol in gasoline, so it may degrade quickly when exposed to fuel with high ethanol content.
Mix Handling: Suitable for heavier fuel-to-oil mixes, like 20:1, due to its ability to move viscous mixtures.
Storage Sensitivity: Prone to deterioration if left unused for extended periods.
Acetate Carburetor Diaphragm (Various Colors):
Structure and Function: These diaphragms are available in various colors (e.g., black, blue, green) and have a shiny plastic appearance.
Cold Climate Usage: Believed to perform better in colder climates but may require more carburetor adjustments for optimal performance.
Pumping Efficiency: Less efficient at pumping gasoline fuel through the carburetor due to their harder, less flexible material.
Recommended Mix: Works better with weaker, less viscous 2-stroke oil to fuel mixtures, such as 50:1.
Ethanol Resistance: Excellent resistance to ethanol in gasoline and offers good durability.
Teflon Carburetor Diaphragm (Teflon Fiber/Glass):
Structure and Function: Made from Teflon fibers or fiberglass, these diaphragms are more flexible than Acetate diaphragms but slightly less flexible than Rubberized ones.
Pumping Efficiency: Offers a better flow volume through the carburetor compared to Acetate diaphragms.
Ethanol Resistance: Resistant to ethanol in fuel and capable of pumping heavy fuel mixes.
Quality Considerations: Diaphragm quality can vary; high-quality Teflon diaphragms tend to perform better and last longer.
Overall, the choice of diaphragm type depends on factors like the specific 2-stroke engine, the fuel-to-oil mix used, and the operating conditions. Chainsaw owners and technicians need to consider these factors when selecting the appropriate diaphragm for their carburetors. Additionally, it's important to note that the quality of aftermarket diaphragms may differ from those of well-known brands like Walbro, which can impact performance and durability.
Proper diaphragm selection and maintenance are essential to ensure that 2-stroke engines, including chainsaws, operate efficiently and reliably. Regular inspection, cleaning, and replacement of diaphragms, as needed, are crucial steps in maintaining the performance and longevity of these engines. It's important to consult the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific equipment and to follow best practices for carburetor maintenance to ensure safe and reliable operation.
If, by the way, you are having problems with your Chainsaw Not Starting, then please do take look at my other video, where I help you get back you and running again if your Chainsaw Won't Start, or your Chainsaw Won't Stay Running. • Chainsaw WILL NOT STAR...
If you need a easy to follow video on Chainsaw Carb Tuning. So here I take you step by step should the Chainsaw Carburetor Adjustment be required: / watch
v=74p9FLmIkkw&t=47s
Here is a detailed instructional presentation type video of mine explaining the meat and bones principle of why a Chainsaw Bogs Down: • Chainsaw Carburetor Pr...
Thank you for watching and I hope you gain something from this video.
Craig ( Owner and Creator of The Repair Specialist Channel)
#2StrokeCarburetorMaintenance
#DiaphragmTypes
#ChainsawPerformance
#EngineEfficiency
#CarburetorDiaphragms
#FuelMixRatio
#EthanolResistance
#ChainsawMaintenance
#CarburetorCare
#TeflonDiaphragm
#AcetateDiaphragm
#RubberizedDiaphragm
#EngineProtection
#FuelEfficiency
#CarburetorAdjustments
#FuelSystemCleaning
#EngineDurability
#2StrokeEngines
#ChainsawTips
#ProperMaintenance - Авто та транспорт
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
I had no clue about material differences. I have noted "extra" diaphragms but never gave thought to why they were there. Best I can recall there is no labeling on the kit packages to help a mechanic understand choices in material or that there is even a "choice". You are such an excellent teacher on these small engine subjects, thank you for upgrading our knowledge base!
Wow. Thank you for your kind words. Craig 👍
That was very interesting. I always wondered, or even asked! I thought it was for different applications. Again Thank You.Great !!!
I was wondering about fiber one they give you with the kit one with a flapper and one without the flapper what is going on that thank you
Never any DESTRUCTIONS!😂
I too have used the rubber types for years, but now are seeing the plastic and Teflon ones in the kits. Thanks for explaining the differences.
Thanks for the heads up. I have always wondered why there were different diaphragms in the repair kits.
Excellent instructional video. Thank you Craig for helping me understand. I have wondered this many times.
Ecellent explanation !! I always wondered about that, now I know, thanks to your great video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you. 👍
Fantastic information - thank you very much for sharing this.
Great video mate. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers
Wow,great info,I never thought about this!
Craig this is the first time I’ve ever seen this issue addressed. I always purchase from Briggs and Stratton and never come across this here in the states . Always the black rubberized. Thanks for sharing good info👍
I've also heard the teflon type have higher ethanol resistance and gladly install them in carburetors for other people, as ethanol laden fuel is everywhere in my area. For my personal equipment, I typically prefer the rubber type as I do not use fuel with ethanol in it and I assumed the rubber diaphragms were more accurate and better sealing. The last few strimmer carb kits only included the acetate style and I've had no issues using them either.
Thanks for sharing👍🏻 your explanations make perfect sense to me!
Thank you for taking the time to let me know. Craig 👍👍👍
Great information but you talk so fast we can't catch it near that fast, your going over a lot of info very fast as if we already k ow how it all works, and we are falling behind drastically ,may be if you make several programs out of this one and go about 10 times slower we can get it all, also could you explain primer circuit on tacumsia 3.5. Hp vert. Carb show how to take it apart & how it works,also how to get back to you?
run the video at reduced speed with your settings...I sometimes run him at 1.5x cuz I've already found the same info@@Chuncy566
Thanks for the info on this one, Craig. I don't think I've ever seen a rubber pump diaphragm in a machine or in a rebuild kit (Walbro, Zama or knockoff). I've seen and used plenty of acetate though and I think I've tried a teflon diaphragm a time or two without noticing any difference or different tuning required. Experience from blowers, weed eaters and chainsaws in the Southern US here.
I see the rubber ones much more than the others, but I get in a lot of very old free equipment which has not had any work done to it.
Thanks, from the U.S.A., where despite all my years working on carbs I never knew about the colors. I just replaced with the same type material.
Great Info!!!! Like you, I never worried about it but was curious.
another Awesome video from the Craigster!
Very informative, will certainly be considering this more in the future!
Awesome thanks 👍
I try to match up diaphragms with the one that comes out every time. So far it's worked out pretty well. I agree 100% about the ethanol issues, if I were honest, ethanol side effects supply probably 70% of the "broken" used equipment I buy
I was advised to use Aspen ethanol free petrol for my strimmer. However, as it's about three times the price of petrol station petrol it seemed better economics to use cheap petrol and pay for the occasional repair. I now do all except the last ten minutes of my strimming with cheap petrol, then empty the tank, put in about 100ml of Aspen and then restart, so the carburettor is only exposed to ethanol for a few hours each week rather than 24/7 and that seems to work well.
@Rob the Gardener fresh ethanol won't hurt you as much as you think. The problem starts when it begins to break down. My weedeater is well over 10 years old and only runs cheap pump gas, but I keep it fresh and drain it at the end of the season. Save your time and money, just use pump gas and don't let it sit in the tank for more than a couple weeks. 👍
Thank you Craig... perfect explanations to these types of diaphragms.
Great information. The OEM Zama EL41A kit came with a transparent diaphragm to replace the black one. I wonder why. Also, contemplating the benefits of using alkylate premix fuel or RON98E5 mixing myself and how that plays out to the big picture. Thanks for the educational videos!
Thanks for this great video. I'm new to rebuilding small engines and was confused about the different color diaphragms but didn't bother to ask anyone. This was very helpful bud, keep up the great work.
This you so much for taking the time to write me this kind feedback and for your views. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍
Wonderful video full of great knowledge answering questions I wondered. Thank you!
El conocimiento es poder. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
Gracias por este contenido.
Thank you, very interesting indeed! Cheers
Did not have that information prior to this. But I have a chainsaw that has been old faithful. I live in the southeast. It has recently gotten colder than it has been. The saw has a rubber diaphragm on it. Well the carb is clean. It will not run properly. Weed eater, mowers ect run fine. Non ethanol fuel. Changed diaphragm saw runs great. Thanks!
Excellent, thanks for posting.
Thanks as a hobbyist I've always wondered what the hell these things were never knew that thanks for the deep dive now I have a better understanding
Thank you for this video. I went with the Teflon on my last rebuild and it has already lasted longer than the rubber one.
Thanks again
Thanks for sharing. Craig 👍
More to think about, thank you. I'm surprised that any gaskets or diaphragms made today are still vulnerable to ethanol damage. Ethanol is even present in fuel stabilizer, so it is hard to avoid.
Great information, thank you
Excellent explanation of diaphragm types! I knew there were different ones, but didn't pay a lot of attention to what they were made of, just matching what the carburetor came with. Ethanol is not only a killer of diaphragms, but the entire fuel system as well. Even Tygon line succumbs to it. The metal of the carburetor gets eaten by it as it's a magnet for moisture. I'm fortunate to have ethanol free fuel available and highly recommend it to all my customers.
Agreed on all counts
I'm repairing an old Craftsman chainsaw and hedge trimmer for a co worker and whoever had them before him used 10% ethanol fuel so all the fuel lines, gaskets and diaphragms were either rock hard or disintegrated. Got new fuel lines put in, ran the carb parts through my ultrasonic cleaner and waiting on delivery for the carb repair kits, and hooked my co worker up with some packets of AMSOIL 2 stroke oil for him to mix with some 91 octane ethanol free (the mix I've used for years that works like a champ). Hopefully he'll get plenty of years of good use out of them after I'm done working them over.
Great Info Craig! We have Ethanol here and I see more of the plastic (acetate) and Teflon diaphragms used in my area (NE USA). If I have the choice I prefer the Teflon type. I buy 90% OEM Walbro or ZAMA diaphragms. Knowledge Is Power!
Awesome Ken. Thank you for letting me know 👍👍👍
What I think is that your videos are awesome lol.
To give an example I used to be a Johnsered chainsaw dealer and I purchased a saw as well as a trimmer back then and that was around 2002.
I’ve never had any problems with the carburetter on my trimmer, and it has never ever seen ethanol fuel, and I decided to pull it apart to clean it two years ago, and I was astonished that it looked like a completely brand new carb there was no dirt or no anything in that Carb.
I pulled others apart that I started using ethanol after only one year and I was seeing a white powder inside of them even just a Lake coding. It just eats everything.
I’ve used ethanol fuel, and it takes out the check valves as well. Best to just not use it at all, if you can.
In Canada here we have a few fuels that have no ethanol in them .
Seriously useful thanks!
Very hard to find information about this. This video has helped me out very well. Thank you!!
You're very welcome! I really appreciate your kind feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
Yes it true I’m my area ethanol hardens diaphragms in carbs, even pro stuff. That being said it seems changes have been made and there does seem to be a difference between brands.
Thank you very much, great content.
Knowledge is indeed empowering , jolly useful workarounds to ethanol issues thank you very much indeed
Very welcome
I always try to use the acetate or Teflon diaphragms for durability, but I have noticed that the three diaphragms are often cut slightly differently, so I have to use the rubber one. I put a carb kit in a chainsaw carb and it had the acetate diaphragm in it and it was just starting to show wear while the needle lever actually had a deep west mark. That showed me just how long the acetate diaphragms last, and I am sure the Teflon ones will last just as well.
Useful info, i repair brushcutters and chainsaws , mainly stihl (when i can source the spares) and some Chinese..im based in india and just been told the fuel has changed to E20... So going to have to up the oil ratios 🤔 Constant carb issues here , wrong fuel mixes ,poor quality fuel etc etc... Loving the channel , keep up the good work 👍🏼🔧🔧
Great video!!!
In Canada i use and ice auger to go fishing in winter drilling through four feet of ice or more and over the years have serviced my carberater a few times and have used both ethanol and non-ethanol fuels and now use inly non-ethenol and found that my silicone valve diaphram has help up for many years now and all I’ve had to replace is the actual pump diaphragm made up of a different black material.
This has been on a 24 year old jiffy ice auger model 76 with a tillotson carb.
excelent knowledge!! Thank you, you answerd questions I've always had.
Thank you so much. Craig
I did know that the teflon one was the most desired diaphragm. Unfortunately my kit came with several diaphragms that didn't fit my carb and had to go with the Acetate one.....we'll see if it can keep up with my chainsaw fuel needs next spring. Great vid, thank you!
I'm going straight out to check my venturiole!
Been wondering about this ...Thank you
Thank you. Craig 👍
Thanks for that info. 👍 Got an a idea for a video -- show an easy way to remove ethanol from your fuel.
Great video, just checked out mcCarr as a diaphram source, success! Will try some on an old mac 3-25 saw I have with the help of a steady hand, cricket or silowet. Thanks for your research.
My hedge-trimmer would not hold maximum revs without stuttering, the cure was to replace the rubber diaphragm (ethanol affected presumably) it now runs fine with Teflon, although I wasn't aware that it was Teflon till just now! Thanks👍
Rev limiter chipped ignition coils are out there. Just sayin'
@@artpatronforeverDidn't know that, thanks.
@@michaelglynn2638 If an engine had an on/off switch
for the rev limiter, guess where that switch would be
for many people, and definitely I am one of them.
And how many pieces of equipment would ever
be sold if it was labeled on the box or description
a rev limiter was on that equipment? Aftermarket
replacement coil or a substitute coil without the
rev limiter is a possibility if that is an issue that
needs to be defeated.
Thank-you!
Thank you very much!!!
Good video thanks
What? The idiots I watched said I needed to use them all. in a certain order! I swear I didn't understand but didn't know any better as i just bought an old mcculloch 610 chainsaw and when I rebuilt the carb it had at least 3 types as well. I understand the gasket then a diaphragm on one side but on the other is where they are saying stack them. Its a wonder my saw runs at all. Thanks Craig. I may do a video to prove what I'm saying.
Never heard about anything like that. Why would you stack diaphragms, lol.
Oh my goodness. Sorry to hear that you’ve been told that. Anyway. I hope all is better now, and thank you for your contribution to the chat. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍
Great video! Subbed
Awesome, thank you! 👍👍
They may come with one or two, but I don't think you'll have all to choose from . I just put back what I take out unless I'm in a bind . Good video .
Thanks 👍
thanks, very good info. i used to make ethanol free gas by mixing it with water and then separate, but now I'm lazy to do it.
I think I met the "inventor" of the acetate diaphragm, about 25 years ago I heard a guy telling his friends that he badly needed his chainsaw fixed and that he had cut his own diaphragm out of photographic film and it had worked perfectly.
At that time I only knew about the rubberized diaphragms used by my own chainsaw and it seemed to me that he was making it up, more than anything because it seemed to me that the film would be too rigid to work, then a few years ago I bought a cheap aftermarket kit on eBay and the material was suspiciously similar to acetate film and I wondered if it was really a true story 🤔
Awesome👍
Great video.
Thank you so much👍
I install a kit last week that only had the rubberized diaphragm. It was a customer supplied kit.
Thank you very much. I just got educated.
I naive never thought about which material diaphragm to use, as long as the diaphragm is an exact cop of the one I removed. I will try to use the Teflon version in the future if it is available in the kit. I do not worry about ethanol, because I use nothing but PNE gas in all my two and four cycle equipment. PNE = premium, non ethanol. Premium= 91 octane.
Hello Craig and thanks for this materials and properties video .
I just wish I'd seen it before, I've just replaced acetate with acetate but thought the Teflon one was just for an upgraded carb that I didn't have , and I m fairly certain that we have our E5 fuel till 2025, after that there's no information. It's worth the extra for me as I only use about two or three gallons of 2 stroke per year , ( about 12 to 13 ltrs ) .Thanks for sharing Craig. 😊 ATB, Ian👍
Thanks
The tan color material some call snakeskin is a teflon laminate with
a woven fabric probably fiberglass, I am not certain. I have a spool
of thread that is the same color and it is teflon covered fiberglass.
I have a much heavier laminate of a teflon and fiberglass canvas.
It is white and is used as a roofing membrane that likely lasts forever.
The shiny film you call acetate is probably Tefzel film that is another
fluoropolymer ETFE similar to teflon but is a meltable thermoplastic.
It is used for electrical wire insulation mostly mil-spec aviation wire
and marine applications and other high end electronics. The black
rubberized canvas old school material is nitrile rubber Buna-N also
used for O-Rings and fuel lines. Alcohol hardens and embrittles it
over time which limits its service life.
As for the pumping efficiency, probably there is regulation of flow
by the metering diaphragm and lever operated main jet needle and
any of the pump diaphragm materials send a surplus flow that gets
metered whatever is being needed while the rest is bypassed and
goes through the fuel return line from the purge bulb back into the
fuel tank. So it should not matter what fuel oil ratio is used or what
is the temperature or what diaphragm material is used. But the
amount of ethanol in the fuel would have bearing and make the
choice favorable for the shiny or the snakeskin material for the
longer service life. Diaphragms are still mostly the old school
nitrile rubberized canvas and will need to be changed first, so
there is the culprit that needs more frequent replace. On some
carburetors where the metering diaphragm is easily replaced
without even removing the carburetor, that part gets replaced
a couple of times before the fuel pump diaphragm that usually
still works okay unless it is the same old school nitrile canvas
as the metering diaphragm. I saw where an improved purge
bulb black rubber material is available that outlasts the clear
and red purge bulbs. Inside a purge bulb are Viton duckbill
valves and it may be the bulbs are also a Viton upgrade.
Fuel lines are available too that are upgrades better able to
withstand ethanol exposure. But the best solution is to use
non-ethanol fuel. That is what is used for aviation and there
is plenty of good reasons for that choice by pilots.
There are new metal diaphragms that are in a spiral design can't remember name of company but you can watch video on Steve's small engine repair. But your experience with different types of materials makes sense. I have had them dry out and get hard/No flex, no pump action.
Thank you so much for sharing this valuable information about the metal diaphragms for small 2-stroke carburetors! It's great to know that there are innovative solutions out there. I appreciate your recommendation to watch Steve's small engine repair video for more details. I have actually been a keen subscriber of his for years now. Your feedback about diaphragms drying out and losing flexibility is incredibly insightful and helpful for anyone working on small engines. Your contribution to the community is much appreciated, and I'm grateful for your input! Craig
Thanks. Excellent
You are welcome!👍👍👍
Well, you showed me I didn't know anything about this subject.{:>) Moving forward, I'll look at this differently and make an informed decision. Than you !
Well that's me educated.. thanks mate
I agree the black rubber ones seem to wear out very quickly, mine are on 20/30cc petrol aeroplane engines, most of the time running flat out on 98% octane and 3% motul 710 synthetic oil mix.
👍
I prefer to use the Teflon diaphragms generally. I’ll use rubber (if that’s my only option) in personal equipment because I run non ethanol fuel.
The metering diaphragm requires flexibility so that is where
the rubberized material is seen more often to need replacement,
while the fuel pump diaphragm still has good life remaining.
Matching like for like is all well and good, unless someone was in there before you and didn't replace like for like! So, if I have a saw that is running funky, having this information waiting in the fog in the back of my brain will come in handy! Thanks. This was very informative. Also could you explain why some 2 cycle carbs now have two barrels. ie, one for the butterfly that is worked by the throttle and one just for the choke.
Thank you for your kind feedback. i really appreciate it. I will indeed explain how the double intake carbs work. I have a few other vids to complete before this but will get round to it asap. Thank. Craig 👍
excellent.
Many many thanks
Because I've had so much trouble with ethanol damage over the years, just yesterday, I purchased my first load of non-ethanol fuel. I will only use this in the future in my Stihl engines, and lawnmowers.
Thank you for letting me know 👍
I generally use the acetate diaphragms because I have noticed they are always in perfect shape when I open up even the most nasty carbs for cleaning.
I've noticed that invariably the non-rubber diaphragms are deformed in the fuel reservoir area, even if the valves are perfectly flat. I always replace them because I had one machine in that would not tune properly but when I replaced the pump diaphragm with a matching new one the machine tuned and ran perfectly right away. This tells me that the non-rubber diaphragms are definitely susceptible to damage from some fuels (most likely ethanol, but I suspect it can just as readily be fuel sitting on them for extended periods of time with no use).
@@Rein_Ciarfella I also replace the diaphragms even if they look perfect just to avoid that very issue.
I was wondering what the different materials were for, and noticed I had used a Teflon one, in one of my oldest chain saws. The carb needed cleaning, slight adjustments, inlet screen was plugged. The Teflon fuel pump diaphragm is in excellent condition. The metering diaphragm was, if anything, a bit soft.
My old chain saw would want a good pumper, and the a-holes in government mandated that all grades of gas here have some alcohol in them.
Maybe they could make metering diaphragms to replace the rubber ones???
That is all very good information to know & it all makes total sense, but why aren't all of the diaphragms cut the same? Like where the valves go as explained in your video how the priming system works?
Thank you for your kind feedback. I really appreciate it and I'm glad you're diving into the details of carburetor maintenance-it's an area that can certainly benefit from a clear explanation. The reason a carburetor service kit might include diaphragms with different shaped cut-outs, even though they're for the same type of diaphragm, usually boils down to the application of the kit across different models or variations of carburetors.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Model Variations: Carburetors, even within the same brand or engine type, can come in slightly different configurations. Manufacturers often design service kits to be as universal as possible, accommodating various models. Different shaped cut-outs can match different carburetor tops or internal configurations.
Year of Manufacture: Across different production years, the same model of carburetor might have undergone slight revisions. These changes can include alterations to the carburetor’s internal chambers or vacuum ports, necessitating a different diaphragm shape.
Aftermarket Modifications: Sometimes, a service kit is designed not just for stock carburetors but also for those that have been modified or are using aftermarket parts. Different cut-outs cater to these variations.
Environmental Adjustments: Carburetors can be tuned differently based on the altitude or climate they are typically used in. This might require a slightly different diaphragm shape for optimal performance.
I hope this helps a little
Craig
Perhaps if the engine and suction is worn, you could use the teflon one to give extra pump boost? I have used all 3 but never seen any issues after tuning in. This is with 25/1 mix and i always tune slightly towards rich to be certain theres enough oil, never fouled a plug yet! Seems the acetate ones couldnt pump as being totally stiff? and i only use straight fuel with the oil so dont need that type of diaphragm.
35 years in the trade and I agree.
Very interesting, Mr. Craig. I knew that 10% Ethanol gas/petrol (E10) was acceptable for pretty much all vehicles and most small engine devices, but with Walbro stating E10 is OK, but not E15 or higher, it looks to me like Biden is attempting to ruin all ICE vehicles made before 2011 and pretty much all small engine devices with his E15 all-the-time policy, in effort to get people to transition to rechargeable battery devices and BEVs. The problem with that is the devices cost twice as much from having to buy the battery and any spare batteries desired, and the charger if the devices are from different manufacturers. BEVs also cost a lot more than a comparable gas/petrol vehicle. Luckily for me, there are 5 gas/petrol stations in my city that have E0 Regular, and the one I go to because Regular is the cheapest there has E0 in all octane grades. I'm buying E0 Regular for my 1995 car now, which makes me pay, on average, 50 cents per gallon more and I've learned that it's best to use E0 Regular in all small engine devices, which I have started doing. Ethanol gas ruins parts and components and E0 can gunk up if the vehicle or small engine tools are not frequently used or drained for storage, but E0's damage is a lot easier to deal with. Just clean the carburetor. Thank you for this video. It will be helpful when the time comes to work on small engine carburetors.
Thank you for taking the time to respond in detail. I appreciate it. 👍
Most of the issues I see is a hardened fuel control diaphragm and they are always the same material. If no water is in the fuel the carbs are like new inside with 10% Ethanol. The fuel lines are the big problem and the best is the black rubber like hoses On Echo products.
You bring up an important point regarding small two-stroke carburetor diaphragms and fuel-related issues. It's true that diaphragms can often become problematic due to the material they are made of and the conditions they are exposed to.
Ethanol-blended fuels, such as those containing 10% ethanol, can indeed contribute to the deterioration of rubber components, including diaphragms and fuel lines. Over time, exposure to ethanol can cause rubber to harden, crack, and lose its flexibility. This can result in issues with fuel delivery and carburetor performance.
You also mentioned that the type of fuel lines, particularly the black rubber-like hoses on Echo products, can make a difference. High-quality fuel lines can be more resistant to the effects of ethanol and last longer before requiring replacement.
To mitigate these issues, it's a good practice for small engine owners to:
Use Fuel Stabilizer: Adding a fuel stabilizer to your gasoline can help slow down the deterioration of rubber components, especially if you plan to store your equipment for an extended period.
Regular Maintenance: Periodically inspect and replace fuel lines and diaphragms as needed. This proactive approach can prevent fuel-related problems before they occur.
Use Ethanol-Free Fuel: If available, consider using ethanol-free gasoline for your small engines, as it can reduce the risk of ethanol-related issues.
Follow Manufacturer Recommendations: Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for fuel and maintenance in your equipment's owner's manual.
By taking these steps, small engine owners can help ensure the longevity and reliable performance of their equipment, including chainsaws, trimmers, and leaf blowers.
Craig
Just subbed
Thank you 👍
Are there diaphragm carburetors with 2-stroke oil injection ports and also coolant-taps (for quick-heating & heat-dissipation)? I've looked for it a while and not had much success in my search
The plastic cover off my reverse camera is like the blue or green my flap wont lay flat im going to try and over lay it over my gasket and see if that will work probably just waste some time o well im happy when fixing things or trying to !!
Good Stuff, but what about the metering diaphragm when it comes to ethanol? I find that part the weak link in the chain when it comes to ethanol, so an ethanol-proof fuel pump diaphragm might last, but you will still need a rebuild kit because the metering diaphragm will stiffen up and stop working...... unless you stick with ethanol free fuel. In Canada, Shell V-Power is ethanol free, at least according to their website. Thant's what I use and no more troubles.
In Australia I never buy E10 fuel for my whipper snipper or mower👍
Funny thing is that I found this teflon diaphragm on on chinese saws. Stihl that I own use this acetate type.
👍
The original rubber diaphragms on my weed whacker were hard and deformed after 34 years and the machine was starving for fuel. I replaced the diaphragms and chose the acetate diaphragm first. The machine still starved for fuel at full throttle after a few seconds. I then put in the teflon diaphragm and the engine runs like new again.
never gave it any thought. I just used the same color. But, who knows if that carb was rebuilt before I got it. What color was OEM? It is a mystery.
Brilliant information thanks, but what about the metering diafram they still seem to be rubber, also cheap china ones are everywhere & some really old carbs are a job to get kits for & only seem to be able to get Chinese ones. It’s a minefield. Good video though.
Great point! I will try to get round to making a vid on that
If the teflon diaphram pumps so much, wouldn't the metering diaphram regulate the flow?
so how do i identify the cabi in your video as i need arts for that exact one, chinese build, wead eater. thanks
Craig my Walbro won't manually prime can you help me
Carbotar over flow problem please explain
all my years I've almost always used the blue ones.
Ok thanks 👍
Craig, upon what information to you base your statement that the diaphragms that are tan in color are Teflon? I was a sailmaker for years and that material looks exactly like the tan Kevlar used in sails. It’s also possible that the tan ones are two materials - Kevlar with a different coating, just like sails, which have a Kevlar substrate and polyester exterior or coating because Kevlar requires another substance to encapsulate it, depending on application. I can perform a test on one of these to possibly determine what it is because I know how Kevlar reacts under certain circumstances, including how it can be cut and how it burns (or doesn’t).
Ok, well you know more about this material than me so if you do a test then please let me know your results, I would like to know. In fact, it's good that you bought this up because when I was looking round for info, most sources I found said they were made of Teflon Fibers, some did indeed say that they were made of Kevlar. I should have mentioned this in the video. I will put it in the description. I asked many colleagues in the trade, as well as there extended colleagues, and they mostly said they thought they were made of Teflon, but again, the odd one or two said Kevlar. Here are some opinions on forums as well. Thank you for your input. Craig
www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-engines-142/10173259-carb-diaphram-replacement-color-material.html
www.arboristsite.com/threads/which-carb-diaphragm.334428/
@@TheRepairSpecialist
You’re very welcome, Craig. If I come up with definitive results I’ll certainly let you know.
@@TheRepairSpecialist
Hi, Craig! I’m back with my followup on this question.
I can positively confirm that the diaphragm I tested is NOT Kevlar! I was fooled because it has the same appearance and color as Kevlar textiles, but that’s where the similarities end.
For the record, I tested a spare diaphragm out of a Dalom W-K10-WAT kit.
I performed two of the three tests I know of from personal experience with Kevlar. The first is the cut test. Kevlar is almost impossible to cut with normal edged tools, including knives and scissors. I was able to cut the material with ease with scissors.
My second test was the burn test. Kevlar is impervious to a flame from a propane or butane torch. The material I tested burned readily and I suspect if I had enough and cared to experiment further it probably would support combustion in a normal atmosphere.
The third test I am familiar with involves folding the material over on itself multiple times with moderate weight placed on the creases. This usually breaks the fibers, as Kevlar has very little flexion ability - it is used for sails due to it’s extreme tensile strength and ability to resist stretch. It is always encapsulated, normally with layers of polyester, so as to hold it’s shape, because it is so slippery it cannot be easily woven with any expectation of retaining the weave.
So that’s it - the tan diaphragms are not Kevlar. Whether they are Teflon I cannot address because I’m not conversant in testing methods for that material.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Zama refers to them as "tan Teflon"
Do you sell those parts for the Homelite brand ???
can't find them in New Zealand
Hi. Unfortunately I’m not a seller of these. Can you not get them from Amazon in your country?
They need to make them run off a small Propane tank lantern size tank the green color 1s u buy in the camping area thats would fix alot of flooding and just runing problems that come alone with gas trimmers and they burn so clean !!!
The fuel metering diaphragms are the same.
I have had very bad luck with Teflon ones run great for ten to twenty minutes and then all distorted.
Ok 👍
Once upon a time here in Adelide ----Australia----everyone went to buy two stroke petrol from
the petrol station ....then the "new owner from the East come " and they took it off ...Then I followed
the others UNLED AN TWO STROKE OIL (100ML X 5 LITRE OF PETROL) A time I heard that was not
the right petrol until I started to see the videos and started to take note of it....A friend told me to look
for the pump where is written 90...he said it is a bi expensive but is top result for small engine .
Now Mr Greg could you make my life a bit easier ...which diaframma is the best one among the four?
Sems a lot of comments get good result the Teflon one ....then next is the Acetate ---black one --
Because I by I get mine from China should I ask to send me only that I require ?
Thank you
Awesome story. I personally would use the Teflon over all the others if I had them to choose from. I hope this helps
@@TheRepairSpecialist ...Thank you very much your kindness is very much appreciated .
I think the pieces he showed act more like check valves than diaphragms.
Yes it is a check valve, absolutely, but the overall structure is referred to as a fuel pump diaphragm.
Ethanol was the biggest mistake our government did to provide welfare checks to the corn farmers. I have had many issues with my small engines and the damaging effects that ethanol has had on the materials related to supplying fuel to the engine.
Есть перевод на русский язык?