If you don't want that clutch bearing to fail again make sure you grease the bearings regularly as it should be done with the regular maintenance the saw should get, I like to put a new fuel filter and spark plug in my saw every year along with checking the diaphragms in the carb and cleaning bar greasing stuff checking rubber components etc.
Ok - couple of thoughts: No harm using aftermarket parts ($26 vs $200 for an oil pump c’mon- but to each his own). Glad you didn’t swap out the bar - keeps the character. It was great to see that snap ring fly off into the saw - good to see it happens to everyone! Lastly, the commentary made the video awesome. Good stuff! Thanks!
I was on a chainsaw course and the instructor said he went to Europe and some Dutch guy with a super thick accent called the snap ring a "pingfuckit", the instructor kinda missing what he said asked why he calls them that and the Dutchman replied "because when you try and put it on or off it usually pings off flying and disappearing somewhere and you say ah fuck it".
I'm glad I'm not the only one that struggles with the various competing factors when considering aftermarket replacement parts, oem expense, availability, and having to send things to the junkyard. Good results, hope it serves you well for the next 20 yrs
I have STIHL saws that are 30 years +. I use Chinese Farmertec aftermarket parts (see their website). I've built and run a couple of their full aftermarket kit saws, we'll worth a look if you like the maintain your own saws. I have the MS880 kit on order as I write this. The rubber parts don't last as long, but I don't mind because I quite enjoy taking them apart and fixing them.... To take the clutch off, put some rope in the spark plug hole (or use proper piston top) and wrench off.
Good job, Neil. I’m always afraid to even dig into projects like this because I’m worried I’ll cause more harm than good. “This is how you figure things out” is a good philosophy- but I’m just always worried to try. As far as the aftermarket parts - I’m interested to see how they hold up. I’ve always been a fan of OEM parts - but like you say the prices are sometimes cost prohibitive. That’s certainly a good old saw to try to keep alive rather than just scrapping it.
I was blown away by the price and availability of the aftermarket parts compared to OEM. They are so prevalent that it makes it difficult to find STIHL parts online. Thanks for the thoughts and insight Chad!
I’m sure you won’t regret buying the OEM clutch. You’ve made me nervous now though. I have a MS 029 of the same year give or take a year. I’m at least going to give it a good cleaning and once over. Great video, thanks.
Become a mechanic they say, you'll know how to fix your own stuff. Nobody tells you you'll be so busy fixing other people's stuff to take care of your own.
I think you went the right direction if it doesn't last your not out alot. I have even bought used ones listed as parts saws off ebay and used them for genuine parts at a price savings plus an extra bar and chain to boot
Hi Neil. Given the price difference between OEM and aftermarket parts, I would have done the same thing. In the end, you replaced the part that wears the most (the clutch) with an OEM part anyway, so you should be good. I think it was a good idea to replace the drum, since it looked like it had gotten hot and had heat marks on it. Fixing mechanical things is not too bad even if you haven't done that type repair before, as long as you take your time and note where things were before you started. Taking pictures (or a video) helps too. Nice repair job! Thanks for the video! -mike
I got aftermarket parts for my stihl demo saw. Clutch and the pull cord housing. Only difference was on the thickness of the pull cord so reused the original with stihl’s elasto start( the rubber in the handle of the pull cord). It works fine along with the clutch. All stihl parts are marked up a ridiculous amount.
Good work repairing the saw. It’s crazy how much damage comes from a worn out .50 needle bearing. Oregon suggested that needle bearing and the rim that drives the chain should be changed after wearing out 3 chains. Very cheap maintenance to avoid a costly fix.
I used to service Stihl products and when I saw you putting that Snap Ring on first thing I said was "Put your finger over it!" Didn't think you heard me but after several attempts you listened. LOL A pinched finger will sting for a little while, but not as frustrating as searching for a lost Snap Ring. Congratulations on repairing that dependable chain saw!
These “0” saws are the best! I’ve got a couple 024s, O26, 028, 034… I don’t have an 036!! But what I have learned is for most parts- just go OEM. Even if you can find good used OEM parts, there’s always guys partin’ out beat saws online… you know it will fit versus dealing with fitment or quality aggravations… and keep your saw a functional collectors item! Good job
I have a Stihl 032 that I bought in 1985 and it still runs great! The only things that I have replaced is chains, one bar, and air filter. I heated my house with wood for 11 years and cut my own wood. The old Stihls are much better built!
Very impressive that you fixed it!! Great job! I was concerned about the aftermarket parts, but glad you didn't skimp on the filter. This made me think about when I took my sewing machine apart and put it back together...many, many years ago. It's what I was trained to do in the Army...tear down and rebuild small engines & motors.
Great video. Aside from an ignition unit replaced a few years ago, my 1986 "Made in W. Germany" Stihl still saws on. Good luck on knock-off parts, and hats off to Sithl for still stocking parts for a 24 year old saw.
Just got a stihl ms261-cm best saw I ever owned. Amazing power to weight ratio. running a 20 inch bar with a carbide chain. Got ripping chains for chainsaw milling with a granberg 20 inch mill.
Neil, I have the baby brother to your saw…. In 1988 I bought an 028 AVSEQ Super Wood Boss. It has been shown in a lot of my videos. And, is still in service today. It is Stihl’s longest produced saw and is still sought after by old timers who fondly remember its balance, weight to power ratio and reliability. In its lifetime it has had a carb rebuild, a piston overhaul and several sprocket replacements. As long as I can get parts… I’ll continue to use it as my go-to for limbing and brush work, I have an MS 310 that I use for felling and firewood processing. That should help to reduce the wear and tear on my Wood Boss. So, as far as should you have fixed up your Big Brother??? I think the comfort of having your favorite saw and satisfaction of having done the repairs… will far exceed the cost and hassle you endured. Here’s hoping you get years of good use from it . And thanks for saving a work horse from the grave!
You're right about the comfort that comes with something familiar. I can't imagine not having that saw to use, but if it ever does fall into a situation where I can't justify repairing it, the rest assured it will get a well deserved, dedicated spot on the wall to be proudly displayed! I always appreciate your thoughts and insight on matters such as these. You always make me feel like I did the right thing even if I wasn't right! Fortunately in this case, I'm confident in saying this was the best outcome so far. Thanks always Dave!
My dad had an old Sthil wood boss (made in West Germany.) That was an absolute beast, 3 or 4 pulls almost every time to start, low maintenance, cleaned the plug every now and again. Burned up in a fire unfortunately.
Good job on the rebuild, and thanks for the step by step video. I have a Stihl Farm Boss 290 that is still running strong. It is 30 years old and I hope to run it another......well, for a while yet! lol
The answer is very clear, in my opinion. Several years ago I was facing exactly the same problem as you now face. So I asked an expert. My local, retired, Stihl mechanic. His answer? Which do you prefer, plastic or metal? Your "old" saw is made up of mostly metal parts. I believe from the video that even the side cover that you take off first is cast aluminum. He pointed out that on the newer models, anything that could possibly be made from plastic is. This of course makes the saw lighter and therefore cheaper to manufacture. Again, in my opinion and his, the old saws are built stronger and more durable. Absolutely not lighter but your old saw has proven what it can do already. Spend the money and know what you've got. Don't bet on the plastic.
Last year I changed the sprocket on my husky 359, a month later it stopped running , took the muffle off , the cylinder was all scored. 600 hundred to rebuild it. Bought a husky 562 xp and I love it. By the way if you wanna keep the cylinder from turning take spark plug out and put a rope in the cylinder....cool vid keep cutting
Great job on the repair, great to see the old friend running strong. That was a tough choice that new 500 has me wanting and I don’t cut nearly as much as you….would have been easy to justify going new. I really enjoy your channel, thank you for the integrity of your videos.
Should've put a little grease on that bearing cage that goes in the drum sprocket or at very least some oil, a little lubrication goes a long way to help preserve parts. Just my two cents.. the 036 is a great saw, mine is still going strong with a little preventative maintenance now and then.
Glad you revived the old girl. They are lovely saws. If you ever wanna upgrade and send it down the road, hit me up. I've had three of em, and they've all been solid runners. Nice work man!
As a saw builder that video was painful, but that’s exactly how I learned! That saw being as old as it is there’s no way I wouldn’t have done crank seals while I was staring at it either. Now you know how to get to them though! You did well Neil!
@@digdrivediy next time bud! Keep putting out quality content.. Btw that oil line was a major pain in the tail on the last 026 I did the other day too.
Small engine stuff has always confounded me. I have two weed whackers, chainsaw and backpack blower which are all dead. Parts are difficult to source and expensive at Times. That being said you motivated me to work on them.
Im a stihl mechanic and i run an 036 from 1995 i bought from work totaled and put new crankshaft bearing in, they are one of the best saws stihl has made in my opinion and ill gladly spend some money to keep mine going, tho i will say from what i could see in the video you probably could have gotten away with reusing that oil pump, just replace the hose Also concerned about the prices they quoted you for the new clutch cuz in the shop i work at those cost less then 50 euro, loved the video tho, keep up the great work
I used to work in a farm supply store. The new machines are nice........ but..... guys have a hell of a time with the new start procedure that MUST be followed. Man for a while there I felt like I was running Stihl operating seminars. They would bring in their saw claiming it won't start. I'd have them start it they way they always have. Let them flood it. Tell them they flooded it then prove it by pulling the spark plug to show them. Then show them how to clear a flood condition. The new stuff packs more power per pound. Just have to get out of the choke the first time it hits and you will never have an issue starting one.
I rebuilt my Stihl chainsaw was new cylinder new crank new rod new piston new rings cost me way less than what you spent I just ordered my parts off of eBay they are genuine steel parts saw still runs great so I was locked up when I went to no issues since rebuilding and I upgraded from 28 to 32 cc's no lies I spent $38 from steel cutting out the middle man helps a lot
I know you spent more than you originally intended but I still think you made a sound decision. You met the challenge by resurrecting a piece of equipment that's been reliable over the years and learned a lot about the saw in the process. There's $250 dollars worth of satisfaction in that and you still have a good saw. Thanks for sharing.
I agree with your decision about the use of after market products. You have better than a 50/50 chance that you will get several more years of service.
Like so many of my repair jobs this one of yours ran longer and a little more expensive than you thought it would. Doesn't it feel great, however, after spending the time and money to hear the saw start and run just like it should? Gives a guy a real sense of accomplishment. My parts shops are all about 40-50 miles from me so running 2 or 3 times to the store is a real pain.
Get a grease pump for the bar tip and the needle bearing in the clutch. I don't know if the Stihl has a port or not for the needle bearing. Some saws have a port at the end of the crank shaft so you can use a grease pump to lube the bearing without removing the clutch assembly. Couple of pumps every three or four tanks for the clutch bearing. Are you flipping your bar over to get even wear? Should be doing this occasionally. If the saw tends to wander in the cut left or right you may need to "square" the bar back up, one rail is higher than the other side.
I’m very proud of you, you managed to work out the problem and fix it. The old stihl saws are made to last, I’ve had my 038 for 40 years, I can’t see the point in replacing it.
FYI: The hole in the end of the crankshaft in many saws is a grease port for a push-type grease gun (same as for bar tip sprocket bearings) which ports grease to the clutch-brake needle bearing.
I have an 028WB my dad gave me a couple years ago that he bought in 1985. Old enough it doesn't have a chain break. Dad says he's only put a bar and some chains on it and believes it still has the stock spark plug in it and he's used it a lot since he's built our farm and heated with wood every winter. If it ever breaks I'll probably need to do something like this just to keep it running for sentimental value.
First time seeing your channel and enjoyed this video. It was interesting as last year I did the same work on a saw and no real direction just figured it out along the way. Bought an old 032 from 1979 the original owner had and tuned it up, replaced parts, went through the whole OEM vs aftermarket parts, finding the right hoses etc. it was fun seeing someone else hit the same road blocks and keep pushing through to eventually having a great running new OLD saw
For my 4 and 2 stroke gear, I switched from premium unleaded to ethanol free unleaded when it became available here. That and Sta-Bil keeps things running well.
Tip for removing that clutch drive off the crank. Take a long shoe lace and let it down into the spark plug hole and leave the end hanging out. Acts as a nice cushion stop for the piston to keep the crank from rotating
Hate to say but I had said that I'd never get rid of my 038 magnum, not long after we were cutting down some trees and the tip of the tree hit it. Broke fins on the cylinder, Gas and oil tank had holes, and other parts were bent to the point of no return. Next up 500i and I love it. If you get a 500i you might want to try a skip tooth chain. We found it easier to buy chain by the roll and put them together ourselves. Just a thought and thank you for everything. The big on line store that has everything has rolls, chain brakers and a way to make it to length. Thanks again.
@@digdrivediy got one of our sons a ms3 something and then he got to use the 500i. Now he wants it bad. It just has a lot more power then his but it does cost to play
Great video Neil. Two of my biggest problems when trying to do stuff like that is: lack of patience and not knowing how things come apart (like the left hand threads or hidden fasteners). Following close behind those two problems is not having the right tools! Glad you got it done! 😁👨🚒
Slow down get info with parts list and teardown and repair-tools--It can be fun when you pull that cord and old machinery running-cutting like new!! old cat mechanic!!🍔
Great video, I’m currently in the same boat with a clutch failure on my Stihl 044. Currently putting together a parts list, and you’re definitely making me rethink going the aftermarket route.
The clutch you were sent will work. Stihl had several different sets of components depending on the age of the saw. the larger bearing, and sprocket was introduced to not only increase durability of those parts but also make parts interchangeable with its larger brothers the 044 and 046. the drum looks to be off a Husqvarna saw. likely the wrong drum got paired up with the right clutch. Best place for parts is either HL supply or Farmertec
A few years ago I toasted the clutch on my jonsered 2255, parts were 250 plus dollars and not in stock at the dealer. I impulse bought a stihl ms362 that day as it was winter and needed to have heat. Now 2 years later I just repaired it for 50 bucks with amazon parts. Overall I'm impressed with the quality. Only time will tell. Good video!!
Similar failure on my MS391. The Stihl parts are ridiculously expensive and weren’t even available. They price them to push you towards a new saw. I went with Amazon stuff and it works perfectly for less than 1/8th the cost.
Awesome job Neil! So many folks are afraid to tackle something like that. I use a Stihl 391 with a 25 inch bar and upgraded bumper spikes. It's got more power than I need but it's there when I need it.😂
Caused by the most overlooked part of maintenance. Grease your clutch drum bearings! Luckily the parts you need shouldn't be that much if you go aftermarket. But get an oem bearing. That's the most important part
Neal, I have been a Stihl dealer (tech, manager, salesman) for 32 years. I currently work for a JD dealer in NC. If I can help with knowledge, or anything else feel free to reach out. I’ll be happy to give you my contact info.
My 15.5 hp brigg and stratton carb took a crap on my riding mower, I didn`t want to spend the $140 for the oem replacement, so I bought a cheap China replacement for $26, popped it on and it would not run right, hardly idle no top end speed, it worked but it wasn`t right. My buddy said spend the money and buy the briggs, we popped it on in 15 minutes, and it ran like a top. I learned a lesson, you did a nice fix, it might run for 20 more years, or maybe 20 days, it`s hit or miss. the standard on steel, and heat treating or other things, does not meet our standards most of the time, and they are built in poor standard, little sweat shops for pennies on the dollar, it`s hit or miss, you may have hit, my friend. good luck to ya, love the videos.
Neil. You made great choices with the saw repair. An oiler is easy to check all the time to see if it’s doing ok. So save the money there. Only thing I’ve spent the money towards is OEM Stihl piston on cylinders. We’ve had a 036 for many years as well and is a great power to weight saw for firewood. Good choice to keep er goin. Thanks for the video!
You did it right! Chain saws are pretty easy to fix. The only real concern is if the crank snout is OK on the PTO side of the motor. The 36 is a good saw and if it still runs, its worth fixing. New clutch, new bearing, new sprocket, new oil pump, new oil pump eccentric, new oil hose/oiler, new e-clip and washer. Buy all aftermarket parts except the bearings is my MO for an older saw as Stihl factory bearings are better quality. Make sure you grease the pilot bearing for the clutch drum once or twice a year depending on how much your using it.
There are two Stihl dealers in my hometown. One is with a John Deere dealership the other a rental place. The stihl parts at the rental place then John Deere. Even more cost-effective through Rural King
Stihl changed from the small clutch bearing to the larger one some time in the early 2000’s on those saws because the small ones do exactly what happened to you, blow apart and wreak havoc. Worth spending the money for the updated style Stihl clutch drum, 036 is one of the best saws Stihl ever made.
Neil, amazing video. Brought me right back to working on an MS250 this summer- what a nightmare let me tell you. Needed part after part (missing brake band and air filter, fuel line needed replacing) and still won’t run. It turns over a few times and then dies and won’t turn over again. I have a few ideas of what it might be but I just haven’t had the time to get to it again. Nice to watch you have success with your saw though!
We have 2 of those saws about the same age as yours! I think there both great saws. Very dependable and still original parts except plugs, filters and chains. I think both have original bars! It's always nice to have a second saw just incase. 😀
Hello Neil , nice work rebuilding your trusty old saw .let's hope your saw keeps running for a long time and will serve you well .I am curious to see how long the Chinese aftermarket parts will last . The newest saws aren't always better than the old school saws . Keep up the good videos . Greetings Johan 🇧🇪
The 500i is a good saw.. I like the 462 also. To use as it comes, and not touch, I would probably consider the 500 and fix the 036. Cheap parts are a good way to get a saw back going. Nothing wrong with working equipment
I have 4 saws. Three stihls , 015L MS 251, and a MS 400. and a husqvarna 51 that I rebuilt. I got it for $40 bucks on Facebook that I knew it was blown. I didn't know anything about rebuilding a saw but it was worth it. My newest saw is the 400 and I really really enjoy it. My older husqvarna that I rebuilt I used OEM parts except for the carb. The carb was $25 Amazon. So far I havnt blown it up yet. Lol I use the husqvarna for the dirty wood I have to cut. Plus I use 45: to 1 in all my saws.
I just did the exact same repair to my old 038! I took it to my local dealer and they wanted $700 for the repair or $489 for the part. I only paid 200 for the saw off marketplace 6 yrs ago. I could not justify that expense. So I went to ebay and spent $54 on everything I needed. Even offered a discount on a 24" chain! Needless to say, I'm up and running and throwing sawdust again for less than $100!
I've had good luck with aftermarket carbs but for everything else I try to use OEM. There are a lot of guys on ebay parting out saws and other equipment that have either been dropped from up high or straight-gassed. I loved to support my local dealer but some of the parts prices are crazy.
Ahh the joys of chain saw servicing what joy the cir clip fitting I usually put a screw driver in the indent in the end of the shaft it stops a lot of probs with the e clip flying into oblivion 😉(mostly) 👍
A comparable saw would be the 400 which is pricey. I have the 362 and like it a lot. I would buy the same saw if I could find one and use it for parts. If not then aftermarket parts have always worked for me.
I wanted to buy oem parts when I was re doing my 660. Until I looked at the prices haha. I ended up using aftermarket parts. Almost 2 years and so far so good.
Nice job Neil. I think I would’ve done the same thing you did! The price of a new saw today is pretty high. You spent $250 but you saved at least $750, the ms500i are in the $1700 to $1900 dollar range crazy! Maybe someday Stihl will give you one? 🤞 From Northwestern Vermont.
I love Lee's. Good to see he is still above ground. I'm ashamed I have not been in there in many years. I assume it was his daughter behind the counter. I think my last purchase there was a Honda 1132 tracked snow blower. Lee personally helped me stuff it into the back of my Suburban. I have always used high test gasoline. I have an old residential Stihl the little thing just keeps on running. I think I have replaced the bar twice, oil pump, clutch bell & bearing x2, and many chains.
It's always great to see Lee still in there. He must be over 90 I'm sure. His daughter and his granddaughter helped me on the two visits I had that week. Those kinda places are going away quickly around here.
Great video Neil. I am glad you showed some of the struggle as well. Been there done that. Thanks. I have an old husky I might re-build after watching you do it.
Check out Chickanic. She does a great job of explaining the how to's on small engine repair. I would've definitely done what you did. Great job getting her going again. Run it until she won't go any more.
if you do get a new saw id recommend the 461 it will cut anything if u do get a 500i i would get a max air flow kit because the stock filters on them atleast used to not be very well sealed. they could have addressed this in newer runs but just keep that in mind.
Ok for starters. The clutch u could have just ordered the springs and replaced them. Then tht be even cheaper then the aftermarket one u bought. Lots of people including the saw dealers may not know about tht. Make sure oil ur clutch hub bearing. Oiler tho is a good thing call it quits on and do what u did.
Probably was the best decision over new. I have rebuilt a few of my saw with aftermarket parts after seeing the sticker shock on a new one. I think they run just as well as they did new.
Smart move on fixing that saw, the old ones are much better quality. I still have my 346 xp husqvarna from about the same year as your saw. Its light and powerful and made of mostly metal like yours is. Great work on keeping a great piece of equipment in the field and not in the landfill.
As a fellow cheapskate, instead of buying a stihl I bought a Holzforrma G366 which is an 036 clone. I run a 28” bar and skip tooth chain for about $275 for everything. It’s hard to drop 900 on a 362 then $150 on the bar and chain. I have used it for 4-5 month so far and am happy with it.
I would have done the same thing. It’s already broken, why not try it yourself? Either you fix it and have victory, and if you can’t, you buy a new one anyway. As for reassembly, “we do it nice, because we did it twice”.
Neil, I screwed up royally. Felled a large oak (38-40”) and it fell on my 046. I was crushed, well actually it was crushed. $500 to fix but I knew the mechanic and went for it. I’m sure glad I did. I don’t think the new saws are as good because of emissions. It runs better than before. And like you said, the new replacements are $1100 plus tax. Good video
I got a saw that old from a guy that was going to throw it away and it needed some serious TLC. I didn't really need the saw, but I hated to see it thrown away. I thought, well, if I buy some cheaper aftermarket parts and use it for a little while, I would at least get my money's worth out of it. I got a carburetor, chain oiler pump, and a clutch and installed all the new parts. Turns out those parts have been pretty much bullet proof. I've used that saw way more than I thought I would, and it's been really reliable. I think this makes about 7 years that I have owned that saw. I can't say that if I was making my living with that saw I would have taken the risk with aftermarket parts, but so far I have been pleasantly surprised. PS: I was yelling at the screen for you to hold your hand over the c clip so it wouldn't get yeeted across the shop. Lol. Thanks for sharing.
Well it's good to hear report like that on some aftermarket parts in a saw in a longevity of experienced. I'm glad you got a kick out of that snap ring departure. I should know better!!! It's more entertaining when I don't though 😋
You did great, you probably saved $130.00 by taking on the task yourself. Way ahead of the game. Numerous other wood yarders on Y.T. encourage the use of a second saw. Chris uses a full tank of gas in #1 then let's it rest while he goes through another tank of gas in saw #2, and so on. You deserve a new saw , I say get'er done. Great to know you don't slack in the P.P. E.. Good job on another fine presentation.
I think you made the right call. Stihl still makes a great saw. But that generation of Stihl’s are the pinnacle of performance and reliability. IMHO. Don’t know if they will ever make a better saw
Maybe it's my bias, but it just seems like mechanical things from the 90's are all pretty good. Just before computers took control of every component, yet refined enough to be good performers and reliable. That's a good topic of discussion!
Done the "doesn't look too hard to fix, I'll do it myself' way too often. And usually regretted the time I wasted on research and tracking down parts. It's no coincidence that OEM parts are so expensive - they want you to buy a new product, not keep parts for old models in inventory for decades.
I would honestly save the old saw you’ve had it this long I’d probably have an attachment to it I just bought my first saw vintage one got it running i love it
Talking of new chainsaw, tbh just found myself looking at the Makita DUC405 for cutting branches/bushes sort , price wise in all is tempting, but you need to be running Makita tools the bother, dont think there's enough clearance on one for the different brand 18v battery adapters
If you don't want that clutch bearing to fail again make sure you grease the bearings regularly as it should be done with the regular maintenance the saw should get, I like to put a new fuel filter and spark plug in my saw every year along with checking the diaphragms in the carb and cleaning bar greasing stuff checking rubber components etc.
Ok - couple of thoughts: No harm using aftermarket parts ($26 vs $200 for an oil pump c’mon- but to each his own). Glad you didn’t swap out the bar - keeps the character. It was great to see that snap ring fly off into the saw - good to see it happens to everyone! Lastly, the commentary made the video awesome. Good stuff! Thanks!
Ha! Glad to hear you say that. I watched it back again this morning and thought to myself "I talk too much!". Thanks Heath.
I was on a chainsaw course and the instructor said he went to Europe and some Dutch guy with a super thick accent called the snap ring a "pingfuckit", the instructor kinda missing what he said asked why he calls them that and the Dutchman replied "because when you try and put it on or off it usually pings off flying and disappearing somewhere and you say ah fuck it".
I'm glad I'm not the only one that struggles with the various competing factors when considering aftermarket replacement parts, oem expense, availability, and having to send things to the junkyard. Good results, hope it serves you well for the next 20 yrs
Well said!
I have STIHL saws that are 30 years +. I use Chinese Farmertec aftermarket parts (see their website). I've built and run a couple of their full aftermarket kit saws, we'll worth a look if you like the maintain your own saws. I have the MS880 kit on order as I write this. The rubber parts don't last as long, but I don't mind because I quite enjoy taking them apart and fixing them.... To take the clutch off, put some rope in the spark plug hole (or use proper piston top) and wrench off.
Good job, Neil. I’m always afraid to even dig into projects like this because I’m worried I’ll cause more harm than good. “This is how you figure things out” is a good philosophy- but I’m just always worried to try.
As far as the aftermarket parts - I’m interested to see how they hold up. I’ve always been a fan of OEM parts - but like you say the prices are sometimes cost prohibitive. That’s certainly a good old saw to try to keep alive rather than just scrapping it.
I was blown away by the price and availability of the aftermarket parts compared to OEM. They are so prevalent that it makes it difficult to find STIHL parts online.
Thanks for the thoughts and insight Chad!
I’m sure you won’t regret buying the OEM clutch. You’ve made me nervous now though. I have a MS 029 of the same year give or take a year. I’m at least going to give it a good cleaning and once over. Great video, thanks.
Seems like the right way to do it. My Stihl has been leaking oil for over a year. One of these days...
Become a mechanic they say, you'll know how to fix your own stuff.
Nobody tells you you'll be so busy fixing other people's stuff to take care of your own.
If I worked on everything that leaked oil at my place I would have content for a solid year!
I think you went the right direction if it doesn't last your not out alot. I have even bought used ones listed as parts saws off ebay and used them for genuine parts at a price savings plus an extra bar and chain to boot
Hi Neil. Given the price difference between OEM and aftermarket parts, I would have done the same thing. In the end, you replaced the part that wears the most (the clutch) with an OEM part anyway, so you should be good. I think it was a good idea to replace the drum, since it looked like it had gotten hot and had heat marks on it. Fixing mechanical things is not too bad even if you haven't done that type repair before, as long as you take your time and note where things were before you started. Taking pictures (or a video) helps too. Nice repair job! Thanks for the video!
-mike
Thanks a lot Mike. Glad to hear that opinion on the drum.
I got aftermarket parts for my stihl demo saw. Clutch and the pull cord housing. Only difference was on the thickness of the pull cord so reused the original with stihl’s elasto start( the rubber in the handle of the pull cord). It works fine along with the clutch. All stihl parts are marked up a ridiculous amount.
Good work repairing the saw. It’s crazy how much damage comes from a worn out .50 needle bearing. Oregon suggested that needle bearing and the rim that drives the chain should be changed after wearing out 3 chains. Very cheap maintenance to avoid a costly fix.
Great job! I loved it. I work on saws constantly and helped 2 people troubleshoot today. This is how we learn. 👍👍
I used to service Stihl products and when I saw you putting that Snap Ring on first thing I said was "Put your finger over it!" Didn't think you heard me but after several attempts you listened. LOL
A pinched finger will sting for a little while, but not as frustrating as searching for a lost Snap Ring.
Congratulations on repairing that dependable chain saw!
Haha! Thanks Robert!
These “0” saws are the best! I’ve got a couple 024s, O26, 028, 034… I don’t have an 036!! But what I have learned is for most parts- just go OEM. Even if you can find good used OEM parts, there’s always guys partin’ out beat saws online… you know it will fit versus dealing with fitment or quality aggravations… and keep your saw a functional collectors item! Good job
I have a Stihl 032 that I bought in 1985 and it still runs great! The only things that I have replaced is chains, one bar, and air filter. I heated my house with wood for 11 years and cut my own wood. The old Stihls are much better built!
Very impressive that you fixed it!! Great job! I was concerned about the aftermarket parts, but glad you didn't skimp on the filter. This made me think about when I took my sewing machine apart and put it back together...many, many years ago. It's what I was trained to do in the Army...tear down and rebuild small engines & motors.
Oh nice! Yeah, I know much more about the saw now too!
Great video. Aside from an ignition unit replaced a few years ago, my 1986 "Made in W. Germany" Stihl still saws on. Good luck on knock-off parts, and hats off to Sithl for still
stocking parts for a 24 year old saw.
I am no mechanic either, God bless Steve's Small Engine Saloon, Chickanic and Donyboy 76 for showing me how to fix just about everything.
Just got a stihl ms261-cm best saw I ever owned. Amazing power to weight ratio. running a 20 inch bar with a carbide chain. Got ripping chains for chainsaw milling with a granberg 20 inch mill.
Reverse thread on clutch. Take plug out and put cord down spark plug hole to stop rotation. Good content.
Neil, I have the baby brother to your saw…. In 1988 I bought an 028 AVSEQ Super Wood Boss. It has been shown in a lot of my videos. And, is still in service today.
It is Stihl’s longest produced saw and is still sought after by old timers who fondly remember its balance, weight to power ratio and reliability.
In its lifetime it has had a carb rebuild, a piston overhaul and several sprocket replacements. As long as I can get parts… I’ll continue to use it as my go-to for limbing and brush work,
I have an MS 310 that I use for felling and firewood processing. That should help to reduce the wear and tear on my Wood Boss.
So, as far as should you have fixed up your Big Brother??? I think the comfort of having your favorite saw and satisfaction of having done the repairs… will far exceed the cost and hassle you endured.
Here’s hoping you get years of good use from it . And thanks for saving a work horse from the grave!
You're right about the comfort that comes with something familiar. I can't imagine not having that saw to use, but if it ever does fall into a situation where I can't justify repairing it, the rest assured it will get a well deserved, dedicated spot on the wall to be proudly displayed!
I always appreciate your thoughts and insight on matters such as these. You always make me feel like I did the right thing even if I wasn't right!
Fortunately in this case, I'm confident in saying this was the best outcome so far.
Thanks always Dave!
My dad had an old Sthil wood boss (made in West Germany.) That was an absolute beast, 3 or 4 pulls almost every time to start, low maintenance, cleaned the plug every now and again. Burned up in a fire unfortunately.
Good job on the rebuild, and thanks for the step by step video.
I have a Stihl Farm Boss 290 that is still running strong. It is 30 years old and I hope to run it another......well, for a while yet! lol
The answer is very clear, in my opinion. Several years ago I was facing exactly the same problem as you now face. So I asked an expert. My local, retired, Stihl mechanic. His answer? Which do you prefer, plastic or metal? Your "old" saw is made up of mostly metal parts. I believe from the video that even the side cover that you take off first is cast aluminum. He pointed out that on the newer models, anything that could possibly be made from plastic is. This of course makes the saw lighter and therefore cheaper to manufacture. Again, in my opinion and his, the old saws are built stronger and more durable. Absolutely not lighter but your old saw has proven what it can do already. Spend the money and know what you've got. Don't bet on the plastic.
Last year I changed the sprocket on my husky 359, a month later it stopped running , took the muffle off , the cylinder was all scored. 600 hundred to rebuild it. Bought a husky 562 xp and I love it. By the way if you wanna keep the cylinder from turning take spark plug out and put a rope in the cylinder....cool vid keep cutting
Great job on the repair, great to see the old friend running strong. That was a tough choice that new 500 has me wanting and I don’t cut nearly as much as you….would have been easy to justify going new. I really enjoy your channel, thank you for the integrity of your videos.
Thanks Joel.
Should've put a little grease on that bearing cage that goes in the drum sprocket or at very least some oil, a little lubrication goes a long way to help preserve parts. Just my two cents.. the 036 is a great saw, mine is still going strong with a little preventative maintenance now and then.
Glad you revived the old girl. They are lovely saws. If you ever wanna upgrade and send it down the road, hit me up. I've had three of em, and they've all been solid runners. Nice work man!
As a saw builder that video was painful, but that’s exactly how I learned! That saw being as old as it is there’s no way I wouldn’t have done crank seals while I was staring at it either. Now you know how to get to them though!
You did well Neil!
Hey thanks. I mentioned I wasn't a saw mechanic 😁 Didn't think about crank seals.
@@digdrivediy next time bud! Keep putting out quality content.. Btw that oil line was a major pain in the tail on the last 026 I did the other day too.
Small engine stuff has always confounded me. I have two weed whackers, chainsaw and backpack blower which are all dead. Parts are difficult to source and expensive at Times. That being said you motivated me to work on them.
Im a stihl mechanic and i run an 036 from 1995 i bought from work totaled and put new crankshaft bearing in, they are one of the best saws stihl has made in my opinion and ill gladly spend some money to keep mine going, tho i will say from what i could see in the video you probably could have gotten away with reusing that oil pump, just replace the hose
Also concerned about the prices they quoted you for the new clutch cuz in the shop i work at those cost less then 50 euro, loved the video tho, keep up the great work
I used to work in a farm supply store. The new machines are nice........ but..... guys have a hell of a time with the new start procedure that MUST be followed. Man for a while there I felt like I was running Stihl operating seminars. They would bring in their saw claiming it won't start. I'd have them start it they way they always have. Let them flood it. Tell them they flooded it then prove it by pulling the spark plug to show them. Then show them how to clear a flood condition. The new stuff packs more power per pound. Just have to get out of the choke the first time it hits and you will never have an issue starting one.
I rebuilt my Stihl chainsaw was new cylinder new crank new rod new piston new rings cost me way less than what you spent I just ordered my parts off of eBay they are genuine steel parts saw still runs great so I was locked up when I went to no issues since rebuilding and I upgraded from 28 to 32 cc's no lies I spent $38 from steel cutting out the middle man helps a lot
I know you spent more than you originally intended but I still think you made a sound decision. You met the challenge by resurrecting a piece of equipment that's been reliable over the years and learned a lot about the saw in the process. There's $250 dollars worth of satisfaction in that and you still have a good saw. Thanks for sharing.
For sure 😊
I agree with your decision about the use of after market products. You have better than a 50/50 chance that you will get several more years of service.
Like so many of my repair jobs this one of yours ran longer and a little more expensive than you thought it would. Doesn't it feel great, however, after spending the time and money to hear the saw start and run just like it should? Gives a guy a real sense of accomplishment. My parts shops are all about 40-50 miles from me so running 2 or 3 times to the store is a real pain.
Nice job on saving that ole' girl. I have a 024 AV from 1992 that still runs like a champ. My dad bought it new. Just put a new bar on it last year!
My Dad has an 024 as well!
Get a grease pump for the bar tip and the needle bearing in the clutch. I don't know if the Stihl has a port or not for the needle bearing. Some saws have a port at the end of the crank shaft so you can use a grease pump to lube the bearing without removing the clutch assembly. Couple of pumps every three or four tanks for the clutch bearing. Are you flipping your bar over to get even wear? Should be doing this occasionally. If the saw tends to wander in the cut left or right you may need to "square" the bar back up, one rail is higher than the other side.
I’m very proud of you, you managed to work out the problem and fix it. The old stihl saws are made to last, I’ve had my 038 for 40 years, I can’t see the point in replacing it.
FYI: The hole in the end of the crankshaft in many saws is a grease port for a push-type grease gun (same as for bar tip sprocket bearings) which ports grease to the clutch-brake needle bearing.
On Husky's it is, not on Stihl's.
Aftermarket parts are hit or miss, one suggestion would be to use the oem stihl clutch springs and oiler gear. They will last alot longer
I have an 028WB my dad gave me a couple years ago that he bought in 1985. Old enough it doesn't have a chain break. Dad says he's only put a bar and some chains on it and believes it still has the stock spark plug in it and he's used it a lot since he's built our farm and heated with wood every winter. If it ever breaks I'll probably need to do something like this just to keep it running for sentimental value.
First time seeing your channel and enjoyed this video. It was interesting as last year I did the same work on a saw and no real direction just figured it out along the way. Bought an old 032 from 1979 the original owner had and tuned it up, replaced parts, went through the whole OEM vs aftermarket parts, finding the right hoses etc. it was fun seeing someone else hit the same road blocks and keep pushing through to eventually having a great running new OLD saw
Thanks for checking it out Austin!
For my 4 and 2 stroke gear, I switched from premium unleaded to ethanol free unleaded when it became available here.
That and Sta-Bil keeps things running well.
Tip for removing that clutch drive off the crank. Take a long shoe lace and let it down into the spark plug hole and leave the end hanging out. Acts as a nice cushion stop for the piston to keep the crank from rotating
Hate to say but I had said that I'd never get rid of my 038 magnum, not long after we were cutting down some trees and the tip of the tree hit it. Broke fins on the cylinder, Gas and oil tank had holes, and other parts were bent to the point of no return. Next up 500i and I love it. If you get a 500i you might want to try a skip tooth chain. We found it easier to buy chain by the roll and put them together ourselves. Just a thought and thank you for everything. The big on line store that has everything has rolls, chain brakers and a way to make it to length. Thanks again.
Those 500is sure are tempting!
@@digdrivediy got one of our sons a ms3 something and then he got to use the 500i. Now he wants it bad. It just has a lot more power then his but it does cost to play
Great video Neil. Two of my biggest problems when trying to do stuff like that is: lack of patience and not knowing how things come apart (like the left hand threads or hidden fasteners). Following close behind those two problems is not having the right tools! Glad you got it done! 😁👨🚒
Thank you sir!
Slow down get info with parts list and teardown and repair-tools--It can be fun when you pull that cord and old machinery running-cutting like new!! old cat mechanic!!🍔
Great video, I’m currently in the same boat with a clutch failure on my Stihl 044. Currently putting together a parts list, and you’re definitely making me rethink going the aftermarket route.
The clutch you were sent will work. Stihl had several different sets of components depending on the age of the saw. the larger bearing, and sprocket was introduced to not only increase durability of those parts but also make parts interchangeable with its larger brothers the 044 and 046. the drum looks to be off a Husqvarna saw. likely the wrong drum got paired up with the right clutch. Best place for parts is either HL supply or Farmertec
A few years ago I toasted the clutch on my jonsered 2255, parts were 250 plus dollars and not in stock at the dealer. I impulse bought a stihl ms362 that day as it was winter and needed to have heat. Now 2 years later I just repaired it for 50 bucks with amazon parts. Overall I'm impressed with the quality. Only time will tell. Good video!!
Yes. It is very tempting and sounds like usually successful to use the aftermarket parts.
Similar failure on my MS391. The Stihl parts are ridiculously expensive and weren’t even available. They price them to push you towards a new saw. I went with Amazon stuff and it works perfectly for less than 1/8th the cost.
Awesome job Neil! So many folks are afraid to tackle something like that. I use a Stihl 391 with a 25 inch bar and upgraded bumper spikes. It's got more power than I need but it's there when I need it.😂
Neil, Good job on the rebuild. I run Stihl Chain saw's as well. They always have done the job well for me. Carl FONDEROSA FARMS MD
Learned some new things about old saws--good info-I run 08s and others!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Caused by the most overlooked part of maintenance. Grease your clutch drum bearings! Luckily the parts you need shouldn't be that much if you go aftermarket. But get an oem bearing. That's the most important part
Neal, I have been a Stihl dealer (tech, manager, salesman) for 32 years. I currently work for a JD dealer in NC. If I can help with knowledge, or anything else feel free to reach out. I’ll be happy to give you my contact info.
Awesome! I appreciate that very much!
Great video, Neil. I jump into things I don't know about too once in a while. They usually work out, but not always. Glad I'm not the only one 🙂
Blast from the past, used to service my 36 and 42 back in my FS days. Yea, good times.
My 15.5 hp brigg and stratton carb took a crap on my riding mower, I didn`t want to spend the $140 for the oem replacement, so I bought a cheap China replacement for $26, popped it on and it would not run right, hardly idle no top end speed, it worked but it wasn`t right. My buddy said spend the money and buy the briggs, we popped it on in 15 minutes, and it ran like a top. I learned a lesson, you did a nice fix, it might run for 20 more years, or maybe 20 days, it`s hit or miss. the standard on steel, and heat treating or other things, does not meet our standards most of the time, and they are built in poor standard, little sweat shops for pennies on the dollar, it`s hit or miss, you may have hit, my friend. good luck to ya, love the videos.
Very true. Hopefully that oil pump holds up.
Neil. You made great choices with the saw repair. An oiler is easy to check all the time to see if it’s doing ok. So save the money there. Only thing I’ve spent the money towards is OEM Stihl piston on cylinders. We’ve had a 036 for many years as well and is a great power to weight saw for firewood. Good choice to keep er goin. Thanks for the video!
You did it right! Chain saws are pretty easy to fix. The only real concern is if the crank snout is OK on the PTO side of the motor. The 36 is a good saw and if it still runs, its worth fixing.
New clutch, new bearing, new sprocket, new oil pump, new oil pump eccentric, new oil hose/oiler, new e-clip and washer. Buy all aftermarket parts except the bearings is my MO for an older saw as Stihl factory bearings are better quality. Make sure you grease the pilot bearing for the clutch drum once or twice a year depending on how much your using it.
Good info! Thanks Corwin!
There are two Stihl dealers in my hometown. One is with a John Deere dealership the other a rental place. The stihl parts at the rental place then John Deere. Even more cost-effective through Rural King
Stihl changed from the small clutch bearing to the larger one some time in the early 2000’s on those saws because the small ones do exactly what happened to you, blow apart and wreak havoc. Worth spending the money for the updated style Stihl clutch drum, 036 is one of the best saws Stihl ever made.
Neil, amazing video. Brought me right back to working on an MS250 this summer- what a nightmare let me tell you. Needed part after part (missing brake band and air filter, fuel line needed replacing) and still won’t run. It turns over a few times and then dies and won’t turn over again. I have a few ideas of what it might be but I just haven’t had the time to get to it again. Nice to watch you have success with your saw though!
We have 2 of those saws about the same age as yours! I think there both great saws. Very dependable and still original parts except plugs, filters and chains. I think both have original bars! It's always nice to have a second saw just incase. 😀
Hello Neil , nice work rebuilding your trusty old saw .let's hope your saw keeps running for a long time and will serve you well .I am curious to see how long the Chinese aftermarket parts will last . The newest saws aren't always better than the old school saws . Keep up the good videos . Greetings Johan 🇧🇪
The 500i is a good saw.. I like the 462 also. To use as it comes, and not touch, I would probably consider the 500 and fix the 036. Cheap parts are a good way to get a saw back going. Nothing wrong with working equipment
I have 4 saws. Three stihls , 015L MS 251, and a MS 400. and a husqvarna 51 that I rebuilt. I got it for $40 bucks on Facebook that I knew it was blown. I didn't know anything about rebuilding a saw but it was worth it. My newest saw is the 400 and I really really enjoy it. My older husqvarna that I rebuilt I used OEM parts except for the carb. The carb was $25 Amazon. So far I havnt blown it up yet. Lol I use the husqvarna for the dirty wood I have to cut. Plus I use 45: to 1 in all my saws.
That's a nice collection of nice saws. Sounds perfect.
I did a top end in a 044 for about $60 canadain fro farmtec! Don't be in a hurry though about 4 weeks for delivery
I just did the exact same repair to my old 038! I took it to my local dealer and they wanted $700 for the repair or $489 for the part. I only paid 200 for the saw off marketplace 6 yrs ago. I could not justify that expense. So I went to ebay and spent $54 on everything I needed. Even offered a discount on a 24" chain! Needless to say, I'm up and running and throwing sawdust again for less than $100!
Man, that's great!!!
I've had good luck with aftermarket carbs but for everything else I try to use OEM. There are a lot of guys on ebay parting out saws and other equipment that have either been dropped from up high or straight-gassed. I loved to support my local dealer but some of the parts prices are crazy.
Ahh the joys of chain saw servicing what joy the cir clip fitting I usually put a screw driver in the indent in the end of the shaft it stops a lot of probs with the e clip flying into oblivion 😉(mostly) 👍
A comparable saw would be the 400 which is pricey. I have the 362 and like it a lot. I would buy the same saw if I could find one and use it for parts. If not then aftermarket parts have always worked for me.
I wanted to buy oem parts when I was re doing my 660. Until I looked at the prices haha. I ended up using aftermarket parts. Almost 2 years and so far so good.
Nice wrenching, man.
I normally shoot about 40% when installing those snap rings...
glad you didn't disappoint!!
😆😆
Nice job Neil. I think I would’ve done the same thing you did! The price of a new saw today is pretty high. You spent $250 but you saved at least $750, the ms500i are in the $1700 to $1900 dollar range crazy! Maybe someday Stihl will give you one? 🤞 From Northwestern Vermont.
I love Lee's. Good to see he is still above ground. I'm ashamed I have not been in there in many years. I assume it was his daughter behind the counter. I think my last purchase there was a Honda 1132 tracked snow blower. Lee personally helped me stuff it into the back of my Suburban.
I have always used high test gasoline. I have an old residential Stihl the little thing just keeps on running. I think I have replaced the bar twice, oil pump, clutch bell & bearing x2, and many chains.
It's always great to see Lee still in there. He must be over 90 I'm sure. His daughter and his granddaughter helped me on the two visits I had that week.
Those kinda places are going away quickly around here.
Great video Neil. I am glad you showed some of the struggle as well. Been there done that. Thanks. I have an old husky I might re-build after watching you do it.
Thanks Jeff!
Nice job Neil. I do use aftermarket parts sometimes depending what it is. Its hard not to use OEM and struggle with that also.
Check out Chickanic. She does a great job of explaining the how to's on small engine repair. I would've definitely done what you did. Great job getting her going again. Run it until she won't go any more.
You’re a brave man, digging into a chainsaw. I think I’d rather rebuild a flathead Ford lol. Good job, and helpful video 👍🏻
if you do get a new saw id recommend the 461 it will cut anything if u do get a 500i i would get a max air flow kit because the stock filters on them atleast used to not be very well sealed. they could have addressed this in newer runs but just keep that in mind.
Ok for starters. The clutch u could have just ordered the springs and replaced them. Then tht be even cheaper then the aftermarket one u bought. Lots of people including the saw dealers may not know about tht. Make sure oil ur clutch hub bearing. Oiler tho is a good thing call it quits on and do what u did.
Probably was the best decision over new. I have rebuilt a few of my saw with aftermarket parts after seeing the sticker shock on a new one. I think they run just as well as they did new.
Smart move on fixing that saw, the old ones are much better quality. I still have my 346 xp husqvarna from about the same year as your saw. Its light and powerful and made of mostly metal like yours is. Great work on keeping a great piece of equipment in the field and not in the landfill.
As a fellow cheapskate, instead of buying a stihl I bought a Holzforrma G366 which is an 036 clone. I run a 28” bar and skip tooth chain for about $275 for everything. It’s hard to drop 900 on a 362 then $150 on the bar and chain. I have used it for 4-5 month so far and am happy with it.
That doesn't sound like a bad deal at all.
When you buy quality, take care of it and maintain it stuff will last you for a long time. I've found this out and love seeing it on your channel!
I bought a 036 in 2000, still works like new and love it. I also thought about the 500 but can't justify it just to get something shiny and new.
I would have done the same thing. It’s already broken, why not try it yourself? Either you fix it and have victory, and if you can’t, you buy a new one anyway. As for reassembly, “we do it nice, because we did it twice”.
Neil, I screwed up royally. Felled a large oak (38-40”) and it fell on my 046. I was crushed, well actually it was crushed. $500 to fix but I knew the mechanic and went for it. I’m sure glad I did. I don’t think the new saws are as good because of emissions. It runs better than before. And like you said, the new replacements are $1100 plus tax. Good video
Man, hate to hear that, but glad you got it going again.
I got a saw that old from a guy that was going to throw it away and it needed some serious TLC. I didn't really need the saw, but I hated to see it thrown away. I thought, well, if I buy some cheaper aftermarket parts and use it for a little while, I would at least get my money's worth out of it. I got a carburetor, chain oiler pump, and a clutch and installed all the new parts. Turns out those parts have been pretty much bullet proof. I've used that saw way more than I thought I would, and it's been really reliable. I think this makes about 7 years that I have owned that saw. I can't say that if I was making my living with that saw I would have taken the risk with aftermarket parts, but so far I have been pleasantly surprised.
PS: I was yelling at the screen for you to hold your hand over the c clip so it wouldn't get yeeted across the shop. Lol. Thanks for sharing.
Well it's good to hear report like that on some aftermarket parts in a saw in a longevity of experienced.
I'm glad you got a kick out of that snap ring departure. I should know better!!! It's more entertaining when I don't though 😋
You did great, you probably saved $130.00 by taking on the task yourself.
Way ahead of the game.
Numerous other wood yarders on Y.T. encourage the use of a second saw.
Chris uses a full tank of gas in #1 then let's it rest while he goes through another tank of gas in saw #2, and so on.
You deserve a new saw ,
I say get'er done.
Great to know you don't slack in the P.P. E..
Good job on another fine presentation.
Thank you Jean!
@@digdrivediy you are welcome
I was patiently waiting for one of these repair clips. This is content, keep'em coming.
If you value your time, always use OEM parts!
Thanks!
I think you made the right call. Stihl still makes a great saw. But that generation of Stihl’s are the pinnacle of performance and reliability. IMHO. Don’t know if they will ever make a better saw
Maybe it's my bias, but it just seems like mechanical things from the 90's are all pretty good. Just before computers took control of every component, yet refined enough to be good performers and reliable. That's a good topic of discussion!
Done the "doesn't look too hard to fix, I'll do it myself' way too often. And usually regretted the time I wasted on research and tracking down parts. It's no coincidence that OEM parts are so expensive - they want you to buy a new product, not keep parts for old models in inventory for decades.
I would honestly save the old saw you’ve had it this long I’d probably have an attachment to it I just bought my first saw vintage one got it running i love it
It would be nice if we could get aftermarket parts from a source made in the USA.
Money well saved and you learnt more about the internal workings of your saw for future reference.
Each time he says tell me what you think l yell read the manual and properly maintain your saw. Great videos.
Talking of new chainsaw, tbh just found myself looking at the Makita DUC405 for cutting branches/bushes sort , price wise in all is tempting, but you need to be running Makita tools the bother, dont think there's enough clearance on one for the different brand 18v battery adapters
By brother-in-law arborist runs Makita and lives their saws.