***** CORRECTIONS: ***** On T&D rockers Oiling is from zero turns from the rocker arm with the cup seated against the rocker arm down to 2.5 ~ 3 turns down from fully seated. Also, I pasted in 3/8-16 on the adjusting threads, but they are 7/16-20 which is .050" per turn!!! I talked to T&D and wanted to make sure the info is correct, so I am providing corrections here!!!
When determining pushrod length, i did exactly as the instructions stated: 1 full turn down from seated. Just 1 question. Do you put a feeler gauge between the roller and the valve stem when determining pushrod length or zero lash? Instructions don't specify.
Bobby Coscia thanks so much for your question! I measure pushrod length at zero lash. I generally don't run too much more than .018" hot lash (cold around .012"), so that little bit is not going to impact the adjuster too much. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC so when determining pushrod length, should both lifters be down or should i determine pushrod length when exhaust starts to open for intake pushrod and when intake starts to close for exhaust pushrod?
@@B88C123 I have just gotten in the habit of always doing my valves and pushrod lengths with checking Intake when the exhaust valve starts to open and then exhaust when the intake opens and just begins to close, just like you said. Yes it takes a little more time but it just ensures you are off any of the lobe lift. Go Fast, Go Straight! Be SAFE!
Judging by the correction posted, looks like safe bet is to go about 1 1/2 turns down, then use an adhustable pushrod and extend it until you just hit zero lash. Measure that, and order the closest set to that measurement to get the build right. A 0.005" or 0.010" [under] difference from measured will adjust and stay in your safe range for oiling after lash is set, no worries. As always, disappearing lash after some run time means seat recession or valve stretch, and increasing means lifters and cam needs inspection. I degree every lobe on a cam on my builds so I can look for wear down the road.
Good information. Not sure if you mentioned it. But are the lifters stock SBC size?? How much compression ? And nice long block what type of oil pump are you running?
Stocks size lifters. 10.5:1 static compression with 21 lbs of boost. Oil Pump is a Melling High Pressure, standard volume. The Dart blocks encourage a std volume pump to avoid running the sump dry as these blocks don't drain as fast as a stock block. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Man what a thumper build. Wonder what it would run at 40lbs LOL. A buddy crews on a SBC Promod . still uses 23deg heads and stud mounts. He crams 60+lbs thru it , he's been in the 4.0 range as well. It's a 393 ci .
@@KevinWilsonSBC Great video here Kevin !! I am glad I saw this..I am planning on doing a build with the standard Dart SHP block and see the info on the oil pump..good info there..I am sure Dart supplies the info but nice that you gave it out here.
My number 3 and 5 cylinder in my sbc 383 seem to require longer pushrods than all the other cylinders. Literally a full additional turn on the rocker cups to get them within the .019 spec. I have 7.900 in pushrods for all the other cylinders but those two require like an 8.10 to keep it under the two turns for these shaft rockers. Any idea why this is? It's a solid roller cam.
Mitchell Fay thanks so much for your comments! I would be inspecting the lifters and cam lobes for sure. Also the shims and height of the pads on those two cylinders. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC figured it out. The stand bolts had worked them selves out so I torqued them back down and all is in specs! Only took me 4 months to solve a simple problem after all once I just thought about it.
Mark Selinger thanks so much for your comments! That is a good question, and I recommend you give T&D a shout on that question. Call them at (775) 884-2292, they are great people and will help you for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Scott Dunshee thanks so much for your question! I will have to dig up the part number on the stand but the rockers are D17 and D12 rockers. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
To anyone else reading this, eric also sells the shafts too, my opinion is its better to get it all from him so you dont make any mistakes. It also depends on whether you have offset lifters which eric needs to know.. With kevins offset you need the rocker offset intakes he has, like he goes through.. my lifters are on center not offset because of reasons, with on centre ones and his 248 dragon slayers, eric gave me .550 offset rockers.. theres a slight angle to the pushrod but nothing as bad as a bbc has
***** CORRECTIONS: *****
On T&D rockers Oiling is from zero turns from the rocker arm with the cup seated against the rocker arm down to 2.5 ~ 3 turns down from fully seated. Also, I pasted in 3/8-16 on the adjusting threads, but they are 7/16-20 which is .050" per turn!!! I talked to T&D and wanted to make sure the info is correct, so I am providing corrections here!!!
What size taper did you go with and was it just one side of the push rod for the lifter offset? 8 total?
I learned a lot Kevin...A-W-E-S-O-M-E!
Joe Wahrer thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Good video
ben currie thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks Kevin.
Stuart Buckley thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
When determining pushrod length, i did exactly as the instructions stated: 1 full turn down from seated. Just 1 question. Do you put a feeler gauge between the roller and the valve stem when determining pushrod length or zero lash? Instructions don't specify.
Bobby Coscia thanks so much for your question! I measure pushrod length at zero lash. I generally don't run too much more than .018" hot lash (cold around .012"), so that little bit is not going to impact the adjuster too much. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC so when determining pushrod length, should both lifters be down or should i determine pushrod length when exhaust starts to open for intake pushrod and when intake starts to close for exhaust pushrod?
@@B88C123 I have just gotten in the habit of always doing my valves and pushrod lengths with checking Intake when the exhaust valve starts to open and then exhaust when the intake opens and just begins to close, just like you said. Yes it takes a little more time but it just ensures you are off any of the lobe lift. Go Fast, Go Straight! Be SAFE!
Judging by the correction posted, looks like safe bet is to go about 1 1/2 turns down, then use an adhustable pushrod and extend it until you just hit zero lash. Measure that, and order the closest set to that measurement to get the build right. A 0.005" or 0.010" [under] difference from measured will adjust and stay in your safe range for oiling after lash is set, no worries. As always, disappearing lash after some run time means seat recession or valve stretch, and increasing means lifters and cam needs inspection. I degree every lobe on a cam on my builds so I can look for wear down the road.
Good information. Not sure if you mentioned it. But are the lifters stock SBC size?? How much compression ? And nice long block what type of oil pump are you running?
Stocks size lifters. 10.5:1 static compression with 21 lbs of boost. Oil Pump is a Melling High Pressure, standard volume. The Dart blocks encourage a std volume pump to avoid running the sump dry as these blocks don't drain as fast as a stock block. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Man what a thumper build. Wonder what it would run at 40lbs LOL. A buddy crews on a SBC Promod . still uses 23deg heads and stud mounts. He crams 60+lbs thru it , he's been in the 4.0 range as well. It's a 393 ci .
@@KevinWilsonSBC Great video here Kevin !! I am glad I saw this..I am planning on doing a build with the standard Dart SHP block and see the info on the oil pump..good info there..I am sure Dart supplies the info but nice that you gave it out here.
My number 3 and 5 cylinder in my sbc 383 seem to require longer pushrods than all the other cylinders. Literally a full additional turn on the rocker cups to get them within the .019 spec. I have 7.900 in pushrods for all the other cylinders but those two require like an 8.10 to keep it under the two turns for these shaft rockers. Any idea why this is? It's a solid roller cam.
Mitchell Fay thanks so much for your comments! I would be inspecting the lifters and cam lobes for sure. Also the shims and height of the pads on those two cylinders. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC figured it out. The stand bolts had worked them selves out so I torqued them back down and all is in specs! Only took me 4 months to solve a simple problem after all once I just thought about it.
Is this procedure for solid lifter or hydraulic?
Solid lifter, but the oiling adjustment limits apply to any cam.
Does this apply the same to the older Blue anodized T&D shaft rockers?
Mark Selinger thanks so much for your comments! That is a good question, and I recommend you give T&D a shout on that question. Call them at (775) 884-2292, they are great people and will help you for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
What part number on those rockers, about to pull the trigger on those same heads from Eric
Scott Dunshee thanks so much for your question! I will have to dig up the part number on the stand but the rockers are D17 and D12 rockers. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
To anyone else reading this, eric also sells the shafts too, my opinion is its better to get it all from him so you dont make any mistakes. It also depends on whether you have offset lifters which eric needs to know..
With kevins offset you need the rocker offset intakes he has, like he goes through.. my lifters are on center not offset because of reasons, with on centre ones and his 248 dragon slayers, eric gave me .550 offset rockers.. theres a slight angle to the pushrod but nothing as bad as a bbc has