I appreciate how any problem with any John Deere can be fixed with 3 simple steps. 1. completely disassemble the equipment. 2. replace faulty component with new exorbitantly priced John Deere part. 3. reassemble equipment.
I really enjoyed the video, I have a few gators, one older one that acts a lot like that, I may look into replacing the coil when the weather warms up a bit. One thing that makes them much easier to work on is to remove the bed, two bolts and a pin at the lifting cylinder and it really opens up the work area, it does take two folks to lift, not too heavy. You gotta love a gator.
This is the most logical, balanced diagnostic video I've have seen on this issue. It fooled me too....not looking forward to the 10mm madness, but I will get to it. Thank you very much! I would love to have a bit more info on how to gap the coil though....that part wasn't clear to me. I am guessing those slot need to be adjusted once the coil is mounted and maybe too hard to film?
Thanks for watching! Yes that part was nearly impossible to film, if you put a business card between the magnet on the flywheel and the ignition coil and tighten down the ignition coil bolts, you'll have it gapped properly.
Change the igniter box. This fixed my issue. Not the ignition coil, but there’s a little small metal box with I think two wires on top of the engine. I forget exactly where.
Do the newer models have the igniter box too? The coil was the fix for this one, it gets used almost daily and has not had an issue since putting the coil on it over a year ago.
My problem is this.Gator runs rough going uphill. Just changed carb and clutch assemblies. It’s like it doesn’t have the power as it used to have. Any suggestions ? Thanks for your videos.
If it is an aftermarket carb it might be that, it does sound like a fuel delivery issue if it runs rough under load going uphill. Would be worth checking for spark as well, you never know.
what did you come up with on compression. did it have the releases? ours tested at 75psi which I'm wondering if it has the releases. don't have a service manual to verify. ours is doing the same thing. i rebuilt carb still won't start right.
I'm sure these have a compression release on them which makes doing a compression test hard. You may have an ignition coil issue too that acts like a fuel issue. If it still won't start when you spray starting fluid directly in the carb it's likely you have an ignition coil issue too.
I'm going to sell my TS gator and get something you can work on! John Deer should be ashamed of themselves! Was already pissed at how hard it was to change the dam oil!
This one had an electric dump bed so it worked with the ignition switch on and didn't need the engine. Not sure if the 97 models are the same. I did a really old one a while back and I think I had to unbolt the bed but it was a manual lift.
There are a few hidden pins to unlock and raise the bed to work on the engine and transmission when all else fails. No need to remove bolts, but I understand. The moving and fragile, aka oil drain plug..parts on the gator are well protected. You have to remove alot of metal "protection plates" to access things that should be easy to get to without a lift.
Coil? Now I’ll watch the video lol . lol I can pull out the engine in 20 min I’ve replaced many crankcase gaskets on the 8 of them we have .( step and goes) golf
It was a very unusual diagnosis but to this day still is running great with no issues. Just a pain to get to, pulling the engine might have been easier after all!
I appreciate how any problem with any John Deere can be fixed with 3 simple steps. 1. completely disassemble the equipment. 2. replace faulty component with new exorbitantly priced John Deere part. 3. reassemble equipment.
This was definitely harder than I thought due to limited access.
I really enjoyed the video, I have a few gators, one older one that acts a lot like that, I may look into replacing the coil when the weather warms up a bit. One thing that makes them much easier to work on is to remove the bed, two bolts and a pin at the lifting cylinder and it really opens up the work area, it does take two folks to lift, not too heavy. You gotta love a gator.
This is the most logical, balanced diagnostic video I've have seen on this issue. It fooled me too....not looking forward to the 10mm madness, but I will get to it. Thank you very much! I would love to have a bit more info on how to gap the coil though....that part wasn't clear to me. I am guessing those slot need to be adjusted once the coil is mounted and maybe too hard to film?
Thanks for watching! Yes that part was nearly impossible to film, if you put a business card between the magnet on the flywheel and the ignition coil and tighten down the ignition coil bolts, you'll have it gapped properly.
Man that was quite a job. Terrible engineering. Glad it was you doing this and not me. Great job. Thanks for the videos.
Change the igniter box. This fixed my issue. Not the ignition coil, but there’s a little small metal box with I think two wires on top of the engine. I forget exactly where.
Do the newer models have the igniter box too? The coil was the fix for this one, it gets used almost daily and has not had an issue since putting the coil on it over a year ago.
Great job Casey!! What a nightmare 😮
My problem is this.Gator runs rough going uphill. Just changed carb and clutch assemblies. It’s like it doesn’t have the power as it used to have. Any suggestions ? Thanks for your videos.
If it is an aftermarket carb it might be that, it does sound like a fuel delivery issue if it runs rough under load going uphill. Would be worth checking for spark as well, you never know.
I cant find the link to the coil in the comments. Please help. I got the same issue
what did you come up with on compression. did it have the releases? ours tested at 75psi which I'm wondering if it has the releases. don't have a service manual to verify. ours is doing the same thing. i rebuilt carb still won't start right.
I'm sure these have a compression release on them which makes doing a compression test hard. You may have an ignition coil issue too that acts like a fuel issue. If it still won't start when you spray starting fluid directly in the carb it's likely you have an ignition coil issue too.
Sometimes old weak spark plugs will do the same thing. Especially in the two strokers
Got one from jd dealer last year and it’s no fun changing it
I see why they refused to fix it
Back hurt for a week 😊
I'm going to sell my TS gator and get something you can work on! John Deer should be ashamed of themselves! Was already pissed at how hard it was to change the dam oil!
If you use a jump type tester it will show no spark at all
Best way to check weak coils
Sir I had a similar Gator I thought it was a carburetor fuel filters collapsed fuel line knew it was a screen in the muffler
Great info and another thing to try, the spark tester proved on this one that it was an ignition coil.
I need one of those machines
Buy a Jeep, it will last longer.
@@stellarproductions8888 okay but Year model of jeep is the best thing for the money 💰💰
jeeps are awful, espeacially anything newer with the 3.6...buy a gator@@stellarproductions8888
How do you get the dump bed open if it does not start? I just got a 97 for free and trying to get access tot he engine.
This one had an electric dump bed so it worked with the ignition switch on and didn't need the engine. Not sure if the 97 models are the same. I did a really old one a while back and I think I had to unbolt the bed but it was a manual lift.
Thank you I'll give that a try!
There are a few hidden pins to unlock and raise the bed to work on the engine and transmission when all else fails. No need to remove bolts, but I understand. The moving and fragile, aka oil drain plug..parts on the gator are well protected. You have to remove alot of metal "protection plates" to access things that should be easy to get to without a lift.
Replace the coil pack I had the same problem and it's the coil pack
hope this solves my problem🤞🤞🤞🤞👍
I thought carburetor also until like you said wont start up when its warm/hot
It tricked one of the local "professional" repair guys too!
Coil? Now I’ll watch the video lol . lol I can pull out the engine in 20 min I’ve replaced many crankcase gaskets on the 8 of them we have .( step and goes) golf
It was a very unusual diagnosis but to this day still is running great with no issues. Just a pain to get to, pulling the engine might have been easier after all!
What a pain that was. God trouble shooting, enjoyed
It’s terrible to change it out and some shops won’t fix it
💚💛