The smaller filter "O" ring is installed on top of the filter head threads, and the reason for that is to prevent unfiltered fuel being pulled from the input side of the filter head (the little holes in the top of the filter) past the filter head threads directly into the outlet side (the large center hole). The fuel is filtered from the outside of the fuel filter to the inside of the fuel filter, so without that "O" ring installed, you risk unfiltered fuel entering the pump and injectors. The FS1022 removes contaminates 10 microns and above, which the human eye cannot see. Good move on your part just to dispose of the old fuel. The fuel filter is not pre-charged, eliminating the possibility that unfiltered contaminated fuel someone may inadvertently introduce does not enter the tight clearances of the fuel pump and fuel injectors, thus causing catastrophic failure of those components. The water drain valve is just that - to remove any water which the fuel filter removes. With the sensor in the filter, one only needs to drain the filter when the dash information indicates the filter water level threshold has been reached.
I can add to the other comments to only buy your fuel from a truck stop or a place that you know that deals with a lot of volume on diesel. Bad fuel is the number 1 problem with diesels. The reason not to fill the filter first is that it doesn't completely fill with fuel while running. Over time it can fill if/when the filter starts blocking up with contaminants. But it wouldn't have hurt either way. It will find its own volume. Also I would advise on using a good fuel conditioner. I like Lucas, but others may disagree. I've been running and working on diesels for over 40 years. I think you'll be pleased with it.
lovin the rv series! post all this stuff, no matter how weird it may be the knowledge is applicable elsewhere. You and your family will have some great times with that rv, nothing beats the open road and staying at campgrounds!
I did exactly what you did and worked perfectly. I had the same behavior when I tried to start the engine, it did start but staled few secondes after. After the third try everything was back to normal (wait 30 sec between each try and 30 secondes to let the pump doing its job). Thank you very much. You should make more RV videos, specially because I have the same (almost), ie, a Fleetwood Revolution 40C 2002 with the same engine, same transmission, same frame! So, your videos are very usefull for me.
I actually have a bunch not edited. Make sure you subscribe and follow along, I'll try to get them posted soon. Thank you! 1. Power awning issues 2. Oil change in generator 3. Fuel filter in the generator 4. Coolant change in generator 5. Testing the solar cell Then I have 5 or 6 up here already? More to come for sure.
The small gasket (square cut O ring) goes over the threaded nipple. If you left it out you need to install it. You may not have found one because the previous guy didn't put it on.
Man its nice to know someone is on the ball... I was like ding ding on the shaft my man... and never use that gas that comes out. crap comes with it.. Nothing like fking a pump up..
Dude, I started my Country Coach with the 8.3 ISC with my head in the battery bay. When the air did a BLOW OFF I just about sh*t my pants and I hit my head hard on a bolt head. Scared the living crap out of me! Hurt too!
oh man, I just changed my first fuel filter on my big bus turned into an RV. after the change, it stalled, and it took many tries before she sucked the fuel back in there, thanks for your videos, I just joined your channel.
Yes, watch that starter hot post. If the filter can shorts that post out...expect a 2000 Amp flash and a fire. The small seal does go on the threaded nipple like everyone says. See that machined out area above the thread? DO NOT prefill on this engine. And you don't have to drain it prior to removal. I've removed these for 18 years on a fire truck with this engine and it never spills out when you unthread it. Take it off, cover with a rag and remove. The rag keeps it from dumping if you tilt the filter.
there are letters on the side of the filter for tightening...letters A,B,C, and D. each one will tell you what letter will face you after proper tightening. like if letter A is facing you,you tighten untill letter C is facing you. all fleetguard filters have this.
Im sure you already know this by now but Im pretty sure that square oring is to prevent unfiltered fuel getting past the threads...Pretty tight just to change a fuel filter...However some RV's are just ridiculously difficult just to change oil and fuel filters...I always hated the RVs...Diesel arm pit burn...
Hint: Before you install the fuel water plug short it out and turn the engine on. You should get a indication of water in fuel. That way you will know 100% if the circuit does work.
Pull that filter again Paul and fit that o ring over the thread. The last guy that changed the filter neglected to fit it. Without it you are pushing unfiltered fuel through your pump. If you take a closer look at the diagram on the filter that o ring is shown that you mistakenly took to be the outer o ring. (Rookie mistake) :) A quick note for your audience. If their engine has an mechanical injector pump the filter needs to be primed via the lift pump plunger. Cummins use the same filter on many engines.
Also, I got the Deutch connector for the electric lift pump and some cables. I can unplug the lift pump, then plug my leads in and hook direct to battery. I do that on filter changes and let it run for several minutes while I do some cleanup etc. No need to key on for priming. No stalls. No air.
My wife is the type that thinks nothing of hooking up to a horse trailer and going a 1000 miles or more by herself. I recall I wanted to put two trailer spare tires in the trailer and she said no, one is fine. I insisted and later glad I did. She never gets rattled. Not like me for sure.
Good Vid, I don't know anything about an rv but since you have air brakes make sure you bleed your air tanks at least every other day unless the air system has an air drier on it. Even a lot of truckers forget about it. If you are traveling across country and the weather changes drastically such as a sever drop in temp and you have water in the air tanks and it freezes things get scary real quick . Good luck and enjoy your vacation , that is a beautiful rig you have.
You still should check for water in the air tanks periodically, because air dryers will fail. Just open the air wet tank drain valve and check for very little water escaping to indicate the air dryer is functioning properly.
Air brake systems use a air drier, and purge valve. The purge valve drains the air in the discharge line after governor cut out, it also allows for reverse airflow to remove moisture from the air driver. If your running a tractor on a daily basis then once a year you should replace the air drier. The system is not full proof, normal amounts of oil passing by the rings in the air compressor get into the air drier and inhibit the air drier being able to do it's job. I would suggest draining the tanks at least once per year and checking for excessive amounts of water as you can still have condensation in the tanks. Also check for excessive amounts of oil as well. Tanks freezing and cracking isn't a big issue as the compressed air is hot, and the tank would have to be completely full to crack it open. The main concern is with moisture freezing in the air valves and causing them to stick or crack, they make a fluid you can use in the air system (act's like a de-icer) to prevent this. The main concern is related to trailers.
If you are from NW Oregon, I can see changing the air dryer every year, but just south of you where the climate is quite dry, it is unnecessary, because the air dryer will last years and years. ABS manufacturers don't recommend filling the air brake system with a de-icer, because that action will ruin the ABS.
I believe the no pre-fill is due to even a a small piece of dirt can destroy pump. that little rubber gasket looks like it is meant to go on the center thread but i have never seen one with it.
Call good video haven't change the fuel filter on Cummings engines specially RVs but I think The little round washer goes on the center thread to go to filter threads on I would check A Cummings person to make sure don't want to give you the wrong information great video
The no prefill instruction is to cover the case where the lift pump is dry. In that case it is easier to move air into air than air into liquid. I never prefill oil filters for the same reason. But that's a different argument...
Don't know if you had to order that filter through Amazon, the comparable Wix filter is a 33422 which you can probably get at your local parts store, also comes with the new sensor.
I am sure many people have told you but at 8:44 of this video just above the threads is where the second "O" ring goes. If you do not put it in the filter is doing "NOTHING" the fuel goes around the filter. That smaller "O" ring makes the fuel filter work. Remind me NOT to let you do any repair or maintenance work for me.
that other gasket go's on the nipple of the housing Danner. if you see the flat spots on top of the threads is where it's flat is where it seats. may not recommend it brother
Danner the small seal if to stop dirty fuel passing back up the threads and mixing with the output flow. I think you need to get your hands dirty again and do a part 2. We can see the bleed action then
Hey Paul, just wanted to let you know that Cummins Quickserve is an online service manual for all of their engines. It's a paid subscription for unlimited engine serial numbers, but last time I checked you can get a free version that allows up to 5 engine serial numbers to be entered. Check it out. It should include everything from troubleshooting to rebuilding the engine. I use it everyday at work and it's a great tool. I mostly work on diesels but have watched your entire premium channel classes with your book and have been able to apply troubleshooting techniques as well as learning gasoline systems. Thank you so much! -Nick Nyden
You forgot tho instal the center o ring from the kit.... search on google for, Section 12-Adjustment,Repair and Replacment . its a pdf file and go tho page 193
Hey! What type of injection system has that engine on it? Are those injectors mechanically (by fuel pressure from high pressure pump)or electrically operated-open/close?
Great video! What scanner do you use on your Class A,.. I haven't seen you doing any scanning or a scanner for codes. Would like to know what you use for you Class A
yea small gasket goes on the nipple it seals the filter and allows the clean fuel to enter the the pump change hundreds of them iam pm tech for penske need the small o ring
The best practice is to use some ATF for the gasket and fill the filter up with ATF. WTF? haha, yep ATF is a detergent and will clean the soot and carbon build up off your injector tips as well lubricate and clean the injection pump, it will slightly smoke for the first few of miles before the diesel dilutes it down and quits. It is a very good practice to dump a quart of ATF in the tank at every fill-up, those old diesel are not too happy on today's low sulfur diesel oil. FYI the Cummins ISC went High-Pressure Common Rail(HPCR) in 2003. Oh, and the square cut o-ring goes over the threaded nipple, and is unfortunately left out a lot by DIYers. Without it, you run the risk of having fuel oil bypass the filter, yep.
@ScannerDanner you didn't. I was getting ready to change an ops on my 8.3 ISC and there wasn't any good info out there on it....was hoping maybe you saw the sensor after removing the fuel filter. FYI, that sensor sucks getting to but was able to access from the top, after removing starter + wires....incase you ever have to change yours out in the future. Exhaust Manifold is next on the list
Just talked to tech support at Cummins, perhaps you should have if you're going to put instructional videos on here, and that small seal does go on the threaded boss. Apparently you, or the last guy to replace this, didn't bother putting it on.
In this video I will show you how to replace the fuel filter on a 2001 Cummins 8.3L ISC engine. I left an o-ring out, see part 2 for the fix ua-cam.com/video/yzkw720STeU/v-deo.html
If you have to change it then you have the wrong filter for that rig.. That is the norm now and I would change.. If that plug was wrong I would change out the plug so it will always work.. That sensor should be changed each time... The old days we looked and left them in, just to find out they would fail.. it cost nothing for that sensor now and its changed each time....
fleetfilter.com is a good place to get wix/napa filters at a discount, some you need to buy at a small quanity. you should have a water in fuel light that will come on when you got water in that filter
Sadly, the filter is located on the side of the engine right above the starter. Mine has two filters, one (the FS - fuel/water separator filter is on the frame rail, which is really nice because it is so much easier to change, the other fuel filter is right above the starter mounted on the engine and is a bitch to replace. I have to wonder which idiot Engineer decided that it would be a good idea to mount the fuel filter on the engine and above the starter when they could have mounted both on the frame rail.
I got mine changed, no problem, but I cannot, for the life of me find another fuel filter. The so called "primary" fuel filter. Mine is a 2001 Monico Diplomate. The manual shows a coolent filter next to the big oil filter, not a fuel filter. Is it possible mine only has 1 filter? Help! ISC 8.3 cummins
@@larryreeves2548 my name is Paul Danner 😉 Only filters on the drivers side is the oil filter and coolant filter. There are NO fuel lines over there whatsoever
@@ScannerDanner it's not on the motor Paul it's under the water heater up on the frame. Go up under the water heat compartment. There a rectangular opening. You can sit up there and you'll see it.
@@ScannerDanner give me a shout if you find it. The filter also has a water drain, no plug but has a clear bottom to see if there's water it trash I guess.
Thanks so much. I did the filter on this video but couldn't find the other till I read your comment. I went right out and looked near the rear axle, there it was. Thanks so much.
@@pedrobastos3218 to be honestly it was closer to 55 all said and done. I think your assessment on that 98 is about right. Unless it is immaculate and needs nothing. But we all know that's not ever the case
Haha I don't care how bad you are. Anyone who has an air dryer discharge in their face gets scared. Lol I've banged my head on stuff many times getting startled that way.
Yah, I thought the drain is to release the fuel pressure, otherwise it squirts out in your face when you undo the filter, and the other Oring would be the drain seal.
I left an o-ring out, see part 2 for the fix ua-cam.com/video/yzkw720STeU/v-deo.html
The smaller filter "O" ring is installed on top of the filter head threads, and the reason for that is to prevent unfiltered fuel being pulled from the input side of the filter head (the little holes in the top of the filter) past the filter head threads directly into the outlet side (the large center hole). The fuel is filtered from the outside of the fuel filter to the inside of the fuel filter, so without that "O" ring installed, you risk unfiltered fuel entering the pump and injectors.
The FS1022 removes contaminates 10 microns and above, which the human eye cannot see. Good move on your part just to dispose of the old fuel.
The fuel filter is not pre-charged, eliminating the possibility that unfiltered contaminated fuel someone may inadvertently introduce does not enter the tight clearances of the fuel pump and fuel injectors, thus causing catastrophic failure of those components.
The water drain valve is just that - to remove any water which the fuel filter removes. With the sensor in the filter, one only needs to drain the filter when the dash information indicates the filter water level threshold has been reached.
I can add to the other comments to only buy your fuel from a truck stop or a place that you know that deals with a lot of volume on diesel. Bad fuel is the number 1 problem with diesels. The reason not to fill the filter first is that it doesn't completely fill with fuel while running. Over time it can fill if/when the filter starts blocking up with contaminants. But it wouldn't have hurt either way. It will find its own volume. Also I would advise on using a good fuel conditioner. I like Lucas, but others may disagree. I've been running and working on diesels for over 40 years. I think you'll be pleased with it.
lovin the rv series! post all this stuff, no matter how weird it may be the knowledge is applicable elsewhere. You and your family will have some great times with that rv, nothing beats the open road and staying at campgrounds!
I did exactly what you did and worked perfectly. I had the same behavior when I tried to start the engine, it did start but staled few secondes after. After the third try everything was back to normal (wait 30 sec between each try and 30 secondes to let the pump doing its job). Thank you very much. You should make more RV videos, specially because I have the same (almost), ie, a Fleetwood Revolution 40C 2002 with the same engine, same transmission, same frame! So, your videos are very usefull for me.
I actually have a bunch not edited. Make sure you subscribe and follow along, I'll try to get them posted soon. Thank you!
1. Power awning issues
2. Oil change in generator
3. Fuel filter in the generator
4. Coolant change in generator
5. Testing the solar cell
Then I have 5 or 6 up here already? More to come for sure.
Dang I really wish I had a manual as detailed as your!
The small gasket (square cut O ring) goes over the threaded nipple. If you left it out you need to install it.
You may not have found one because the previous guy didn't put it on.
Man its nice to know someone is on the ball... I was like ding ding on the shaft my man... and never use that gas that comes out. crap comes with it.. Nothing like fking a pump up..
Dude, I started my Country Coach with the 8.3 ISC with my head in the battery bay. When the air did a BLOW OFF I just about sh*t my pants and I hit my head hard on a bolt head. Scared the living crap out of me! Hurt too!
did I jump in this one too? I definitely have done the same!
oh man, I just changed my first fuel filter on my big bus turned into an RV. after the change, it stalled, and it took many tries before she sucked the fuel back in there, thanks for your videos, I just joined your channel.
Yes, watch that starter hot post. If the filter can shorts that post out...expect a 2000 Amp flash and a fire. The small seal does go on the threaded nipple like everyone says. See that machined out area above the thread? DO NOT prefill on this engine. And you don't have to drain it prior to removal. I've removed these for 18 years on a fire truck with this engine and it never spills out when you unthread it. Take it off, cover with a rag and remove. The rag keeps it from dumping if you tilt the filter.
I always pre fill diesel fuel and oil filters and never had any problems
Great video buddy
there are letters on the side of the filter for tightening...letters A,B,C, and D. each one will tell you what letter will face you after proper tightening. like if letter A is facing you,you tighten untill letter C is facing you. all fleetguard filters have this.
That, I didn't know! So when taking off the old filter, watch for a specific letter, and check where it faces?
Thank you. Again good to know. Glad I read the comments, explained why and where that small gasket goes.
Really liking the bonus material here Paul! Keep em coming!
Im sure you already know this by now but Im pretty sure that square oring is to prevent unfiltered fuel getting past the threads...Pretty tight just to change a fuel filter...However some RV's are just ridiculously difficult just to change oil and fuel filters...I always hated the RVs...Diesel arm pit burn...
Hint: Before you install the fuel water plug short it out and turn the engine on. You should get a indication of water in fuel. That way you will know 100% if the circuit does work.
Pull that filter again Paul and fit that o ring over the thread. The last guy that changed the filter neglected to fit it. Without it you are pushing unfiltered fuel through your pump.
If you take a closer look at the diagram on the filter that o ring is shown that you mistakenly took to be the outer o ring. (Rookie mistake) :) A quick note for your audience. If their engine has an mechanical injector pump the filter needs to be primed via the lift pump plunger. Cummins use the same filter on many engines.
Also, I got the Deutch connector for the electric lift pump and some cables. I can unplug the lift pump, then plug my leads in and hook direct to battery. I do that on filter changes and let it run for several minutes while I do some cleanup etc. No need to key on for priming. No stalls. No air.
When that air valve let loose it sounded like you burned or arm or something. It scared me too. :) Easy to follow steps on that one.
My wife is the type that thinks nothing of hooking up to a horse trailer and going a 1000 miles or more by herself. I recall I wanted to put two trailer spare tires in the trailer and she said no, one is fine. I insisted and later glad I did. She never gets rattled. Not like me for sure.
Good Vid, I don't know anything about an rv but since you have air brakes make sure you bleed your air tanks at least every other day unless the air system has an air drier on it. Even a lot of truckers forget about it. If you are traveling across country and the weather changes drastically such as a sever drop in temp and you have water in the air tanks and it freezes things get scary real quick . Good luck and enjoy your vacation , that is a beautiful rig you have.
It does this automatically and has a drier. Thank you!
You still should check for water in the air tanks periodically, because air dryers will fail. Just open the air wet tank drain valve and check for very little water escaping to indicate the air dryer is functioning properly.
Air brake systems use a air drier, and purge valve. The purge valve drains the air in the discharge line after governor cut out, it also allows for reverse airflow to remove moisture from the air driver. If your running a tractor on a daily basis then once a year you should replace the air drier. The system is not full proof, normal amounts of oil passing by the rings in the air compressor get into the air drier and inhibit the air drier being able to do it's job. I would suggest draining the tanks at least once per year and checking for excessive amounts of water as you can still have condensation in the tanks. Also check for excessive amounts of oil as well. Tanks freezing and cracking isn't a big issue as the compressed air is hot, and the tank would have to be completely full to crack it open. The main concern is with moisture freezing in the air valves and causing them to stick or crack, they make a fluid you can use in the air system (act's like a de-icer) to prevent this. The main concern is related to trailers.
If you are from NW Oregon, I can see changing the air dryer every year, but just south of you where the climate is quite dry, it is unnecessary, because the air dryer will last years and years. ABS manufacturers don't recommend filling the air brake system with a de-icer, because that action will ruin the ABS.
Chad Jessup So what is it your trying to say Chad? You've never heard of a rule of thumb?
I believe the no pre-fill is due to even a a small piece of dirt can destroy pump.
that little rubber gasket looks like it is meant to go on the center thread but i have never seen one with it.
Yes i think that, too.. the chance of getting any kind of dirt in there is very high...
Call good video haven't change the fuel filter on Cummings engines specially RVs but I think The little round washer goes on the center thread to go to filter threads on I would check A Cummings person to make sure don't want to give you the wrong information great video
Unfiltered fuel can pass around the threads, that other seal should be used. Hydraulic pump looks great!
thank you very much Sir, i copy your idea while doing my fuel filter replacement looking at every move you made. .. its a great help for me.
The no prefill instruction is to cover the case where the lift pump is dry. In that case it is easier to move air into air than air into liquid.
I never prefill oil filters for the same reason. But that's a different argument...
Don't know if you had to order that filter through Amazon, the comparable Wix filter is a 33422 which you can probably get at your local parts store, also comes with the new sensor.
I am sure many people have told you but at 8:44 of this video just above the threads is where the second "O" ring goes. If you do not put it in the filter is doing "NOTHING" the fuel goes around the filter. That smaller "O" ring makes the fuel filter work.
Remind me NOT to let you do any repair or maintenance work for me.
I corrected this in another video and admitted my mistake. Thanks!
This is not my normal wheelhouse
I watched both video's before I did mine. Worked like a champ. Still can't find a second fuel filter though. Any ideas?
Great video. Time for me to change mine for the first time. I will have to find a distributor for Cat.
Enjoy your house on wheels, that sucker is huge! Safe travels
that other gasket go's on the nipple of the housing Danner. if you see the flat spots on top of the threads is where it's flat is where it seats. may not recommend it brother
Real nice RV. 44k is just broke in. How many does it sleep. Really enjoying these videos.
very good sanner daner
Danner the small seal if to stop dirty fuel passing back up the threads and mixing with the output flow. I think you need to get your hands dirty again and do a part 2. We can see the bleed action then
Hey Paul, just wanted to let you know that Cummins Quickserve is an online service manual for all of their engines. It's a paid subscription for unlimited engine serial numbers, but last time I checked you can get a free version that allows up to 5 engine serial numbers to be entered. Check it out. It should include everything from troubleshooting to rebuilding the engine. I use it everyday at work and it's a great tool. I mostly work on diesels but have watched your entire premium channel classes with your book and have been able to apply troubleshooting techniques as well as learning gasoline systems. Thank you so much! -Nick Nyden
Thanks for the info Nick! And for subscribing
Do you think that we can clean the whole engine and the engine bay with diesel or should it only be with engine bay degreaser ?
This a great because I have a 2001 Bounder with a 300 Cummins. Your videos are full of good information. You can see my videos on my channel.
good job always good to follow instructions if your not sure
Think about that when it comes to women..always read the manual
You forgot tho instal the center o ring from the kit.... search on google for, Section 12-Adjustment,Repair and Replacment . its a pdf file and go tho page 193
Hey! What type of injection system has that engine on it? Are those injectors mechanically (by fuel pressure from high pressure pump)or electrically operated-open/close?
Great video! What scanner do you use on your Class A,.. I haven't seen you doing any scanning or a scanner for codes. Would like to know what you use for you Class A
yea small gasket goes on the nipple it seals the filter and allows the clean fuel to enter the the pump change hundreds of them iam pm tech for penske need the small o ring
The best practice is to use some ATF for the gasket and fill the filter up with ATF. WTF? haha, yep ATF is a detergent and will clean the soot and carbon build up off your injector tips as well lubricate and clean the injection pump, it will slightly smoke for the first few of miles before the diesel dilutes it down and quits. It is a very good practice to dump a quart of ATF in the tank at every fill-up, those old diesel are not too happy on today's low sulfur diesel oil. FYI the Cummins ISC went High-Pressure Common Rail(HPCR) in 2003. Oh, and the square cut o-ring goes over the threaded nipple, and is unfortunately left out a lot by DIYers. Without it, you run the risk of having fuel oil bypass the filter, yep.
good catch, brother.
My Endeavor looks exactly like that one.
Was the oil pressure sensor accessible after removing the fuel filter?
I dont remember messing with an oil psi sensor or even talking about it 🤔
@ScannerDanner you didn't. I was getting ready to change an ops on my 8.3 ISC and there wasn't any good info out there on it....was hoping maybe you saw the sensor after removing the fuel filter.
FYI, that sensor sucks getting to but was able to access from the top, after removing starter + wires....incase you ever have to change yours out in the future.
Exhaust Manifold is next on the list
Just talked to tech support at Cummins, perhaps you should have if you're going to put instructional videos on here, and that small seal does go on the threaded boss. Apparently you, or the last guy to replace this, didn't bother putting it on.
In this video I will show you how to replace the fuel filter on a 2001 Cummins 8.3L ISC engine. I left an o-ring out, see part 2 for the fix ua-cam.com/video/yzkw720STeU/v-deo.html
Nice vídeo
good video amigo exselente
You sell it again after your trip?
Such a beautiful machine :)
that small o ring goes on the threaded part, otherwise the fuel bypasses the filter
"Alright, lets go do it"!
Why don't you take a sharpie and put the date and mileage on the filter!
If he'd sign it "ScannerDanner" the resale value would increase 10%!
If you have to change it then you have the wrong filter for that rig.. That is the norm now and I would change.. If that plug was wrong I would change out the plug so it will always work.. That sensor should be changed each time... The old days we looked and left them in, just to find out they would fail.. it cost nothing for that sensor now and its changed each time....
That's a fuel/ water separator not the filter from what I have read a light will come on your dash telling you to drain the water from filter 8.3 oz
It is also the fuel filter
Nice !
Quick, someone plant some fake spiders around that beast, lol
Sorry with all the room in the back that rig they couldnt put that filer in a better spot..
fleetfilter.com is a good place to get wix/napa filters at a discount, some you need to buy at a small quanity. you should have a water in fuel light that will come on when you got water in that filter
Where is this fuel filter located on the rv?
Sadly, the filter is located on the side of the engine right above the starter. Mine has two filters, one (the FS - fuel/water separator filter is on the frame rail, which is really nice because it is so much easier to change, the other fuel filter is right above the starter mounted on the engine and is a bitch to replace. I have to wonder which idiot Engineer decided that it would be a good idea to mount the fuel filter on the engine and above the starter when they could have mounted both on the frame rail.
I got mine changed, no problem, but I cannot, for the life of me find another fuel filter. The so called "primary" fuel filter. Mine is a 2001 Monico Diplomate. The manual shows a coolent filter next to the big oil filter, not a fuel filter. Is it possible mine only has 1 filter? Help! ISC 8.3 cummins
Only one fuel filter on mine my friend
@@ScannerDanner the second one is on driver's side up near the read end. There 2 Dan. I've got the same RV and year as you.
@@larryreeves2548 my name is Paul Danner 😉
Only filters on the drivers side is the oil filter and coolant filter. There are NO fuel lines over there whatsoever
@@ScannerDanner it's not on the motor Paul it's under the water heater up on the frame. Go up under the water heat compartment. There a rectangular opening. You can sit up there and you'll see it.
@@ScannerDanner give me a shout if you find it. The filter also has a water drain, no plug but has a clear bottom to see if there's water it trash I guess.
Half done, he did not replace the inline filter back by the rear axle
Thanks so much. I did the filter on this video but couldn't find the other till I read your comment. I went right out and looked near the rear axle, there it was. Thanks so much.
can someone tell me what the pump is called at 3:25, thanks
This was in the description of this video
- Vickers/Eaton V20 Vane Pump Leak Repair (American Coach)
ua-cam.com/video/XwDckyKc5GI/v-deo.html
Brother traducir a spanis
How much Cost This motorhome
New in 2001, it was 250k
I paid 50k for it (crazy the depreciation on these)
Thanks I’m try buy one fleet wood American Eagle 1998 8.3 Cummins that why I asking guy asked $43 but I’m thinking 35$
@@pedrobastos3218 to be honestly it was closer to 55 all said and done.
I think your assessment on that 98 is about right. Unless it is immaculate and needs nothing. But we all know that's not ever the case
Hi I bought Coah 1998 $38 99 thousand miles now I’m going change oil
Man my 1998 American Eagle have tow problem Radiator I ready fix now the guy check oil leak guess what diesel line I have to fix put new lines two
bad place for fuel filter, the starter high current
Haha I don't care how bad you are. Anyone who has an air dryer discharge in their face gets scared. Lol I've banged my head on stuff many times getting startled that way.
Yah, I thought the drain is to release the fuel pressure, otherwise it squirts out in your face when you undo the filter, and the other Oring would be the drain seal.
Bigger doesn't mean more room :( lol
Check out this video as it quickly referenced the mysterious o- ring on the fuel filter. ua-cam.com/video/QeSNJhzdS1A/v-deo.html
Great video. I've watched this before!
blow off valve kicked in yo!
Hahaha!! XD
Thats the first time I gave you a thumbs down.
you really talk too much. keep it pithy
I am a teacher a a technical college. It's my job. If you want quick 2 minute repair videos, you found the wrong channel.