Thank you bro for finally clearing up the difference between the Winchester AA and the HS. I have been confused about that and why different wads were needed ever since I started reloading. Everywhere I looked on the internet I would find different data on which hulls were straight wall and which tapered. Great presentation.
For anyone curious, Remington currently makes the best hulls on the market, with their STS at the very top of the heap. After that, Nitro, then Clays & Field, then Gun Club. All of these hulls use compression-formed tubes. The reason why the STS is the best of the best is because it uses a thicker and more durable grade of plastic and because it uses a genuine brass head instead of a steel head. Expect to get at least ten good reloads out of STS and about 8 from the other Remingtons mentioned.
STS’s are great “target” hulls. They can load forever using target load data. What I do, and many others, tapered hulls like gun clubs and STS’s just won’t cut it.
Very informative for me . Gonna try 1-1/4 loads (lead shot ) they recommend tapered hulls which the STS and even the Gun Clubs which reload very nicely for me . Thank You very much !
Back when hulls were plentiful, I got 500 Once fired gun club hulls. That taper is a pain to find a wad to properly load, and once fired can also be exposed to moisture causing the base to rust! Imagine grabbing your loaded shells only to find a bunch rusting out!!! Now I only buy new, primed hulls for SHTF storage!!!!!!
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I am new to shot shell reloading and if I would have found your video sooner I could has saved myself a lot of grief. PS. I like your country ass grammar!
Thanks Leon! Really great information on the different types of hulls. Let me know if you have any information on Centurion hulls. I'm looking for a reload recipe, specifically what wad should be used.
Hi Charles! I’m pretty certain those are Rio hulls. There’s not much difference between Rio’s, Cheddites, and Fiocchi data. All three are very similar to Federal.
Thanks for the information. I was surprised that it was so difficult to tell hulls apart as I try to learn shotgun reloading. I bought some federal hulls which arrived completely unmarked.
Can someone please explain how the plastic part is ‘fused’ to the brass base? It seems like there is a lot of ‘excess plastic at the base where the brass is. When looking at plastic hull extruding machines, the end product is cut to length, does this mean at the brass end the plastic hull is scrounged up in the press to create that plastic mass at the base? No glue is used to ‘stick’ plastic to the brass right?
Awesome, thanks for doing this video man. Have you noticed any brand or style of hull that handles repeated roll crimping better than others? I have been playing around with some blue Rio medium height brass hulls from a bunch of lead #2 stuff I picked up a few years back. After one roll crimp, the plastic almost looks distorted / melted and has a seam all the way around it. Might be able to get a second reload on it but I was hoping they would last longer than that. It is also possible I am screwing up the roll crimp somehow.
Colson, That’s an excellent question. I haven’t noticed one brand being easier to reload over the next. In the beginning, reloading once fired roll crimped hulls created a lot of problems due the the mouth of the hull being all crinkled and hardened for the gases when fired. The main issue was trying to figure out how to get the mouth of the hull back round. Then a discovered this neat little tool from Ballistic Products called the Spin Doctor. Put that bad boy in a drill or drill press and run in down the mouth of your hull. The friction created rounds out the mouth to almost factory condition making reloading a roll crimping that same hull a piece of cake. Hope this helps, brother!
Have you ever considered that almost all of the factory crimps are folded crimps? There's a reason for that. It's easier to do than a roll crimp. And can be repeated several times before the hull is worn out. And most all reloaders utilize a folded crimp built in.
I wish more people would of watched this, people are still saying that winchester went to the hs hull for safety reasons. LOL, Winchester went cheap with their shells and guns about the same time. Its a shame because they used to make some really nice shot guns and shells.
Thank you for this great video, im juist getting into shotgun reloading after rifle reloading 30 years. What hull would you recommend for Tungsten shot? I am looking at reloading the new Sphero 18 Tungsten and curious what hulls are the best in 2 3/4 and 3 inch? Thank you!!!
Steven Laubach glad you got something out of it! For tungsten, you’re best bet is to got with a 3” straight wall hull like Fiocchi, Rio, or Cheddite. Depending on the load, you can also use 2.75” with tungsten .Of course you can use once fired hulls like Winchester or Remington. Hulls aren’t as important as wad selection. Make sure you use a wad designed for non-toxic shot. Regardless, you can’t go wrong with any of the three that I’ve mentioned. Good luck! You’ll love that tungsten!
Best explanation I’ve heard or even read. Thank you sir
Thank you bro for finally clearing up the difference between the Winchester AA and the HS. I have been confused about that and why different wads were needed ever since I started reloading. Everywhere I looked on the internet I would find different data on which hulls were straight wall and which tapered. Great presentation.
Great video. This is the best comparison that I've seen done.
I'm new to reloading shot-shells... Very informative, helpful, good explanation!
Great video! I love how you add the Walmart shells. I like how you explain the difference.
Excellent description and visuals to discern the difference between tapered and straight walls. Thanks!
For anyone curious, Remington currently makes the best hulls on the market, with their STS at the very top of the heap.
After that, Nitro, then Clays & Field, then Gun Club.
All of these hulls use compression-formed tubes.
The reason why the STS is the best of the best is because it uses a thicker and more durable grade of plastic and because it uses a genuine brass head instead of a steel head.
Expect to get at least ten good reloads out of STS and about 8 from the other Remingtons mentioned.
STS’s are great “target” hulls. They can load forever using target load data. What I do, and many others, tapered hulls like gun clubs and STS’s just won’t cut it.
Very informative for me . Gonna try 1-1/4 loads (lead shot ) they recommend tapered hulls which the STS and even the Gun Clubs which reload very nicely for me . Thank You very much !
Great video ! Never have actually dissected shells to visualize the difference - very informative !
Back when hulls were plentiful, I got 500 Once fired gun club hulls.
That taper is a pain to find a wad to properly load, and once fired can also be exposed to moisture causing the base to rust!
Imagine grabbing your loaded shells only to find a bunch rusting out!!!
Now I only buy new, primed hulls for SHTF storage!!!!!!
The cutaway is good, too actually see what's in them.
so much work that you put into this video is much appreciated!
southern shop just invested in a decent camcorder so hopefully I can produce better videos!
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I am new to shot shell reloading and if I would have found your video sooner I could has saved myself a lot of grief. PS. I like your country ass grammar!
Zane Gray haha! Thanks brother! I didn’t think I had an accent. Lol
Excellent presentation 👏
Great visuals. Really helped me out.
Thanks this info will come in handy for my reloading
Thanks I always like learning.
Thanks Leon! Really great information on the different types of hulls. Let me know if you have any information on Centurion hulls. I'm looking for a reload recipe, specifically what wad should be used.
Hi Charles! I’m pretty certain those are Rio hulls. There’s not much difference between Rio’s, Cheddites, and Fiocchi data. All three are very similar to Federal.
nice video ! keep all those cut hulls and do a video on wads /buffers/discs please =)
You bet! I already got the wheels turnin’ For the next one.
Anything in specific you’re concerned about in regards to disks, wads, etc?
Nice work. I always wanted to do this, thx.
Thanks for the information. I was surprised that it was so difficult to tell hulls apart as I try to learn shotgun reloading. I bought some federal hulls which arrived completely unmarked.
thanks for the video, good work and effort to cut all the hulls.
Informative! Thank you!
How about estate hulls. Are they straight or tapered. I have a bunch of 12 and 20 buck loads.
Very informative video, thanks!
Can someone please explain how the plastic part is ‘fused’ to the brass base? It seems like there is a lot of ‘excess plastic at the base where the brass is. When looking at plastic hull extruding machines, the end product is cut to length, does this mean at the brass end the plastic hull is scrounged up in the press to create that plastic mass at the base? No glue is used to ‘stick’ plastic to the brass right?
thanks good work we needed this
Awesome thanks for the info.
Ain’t nothin wrong with a country ass accent lol. Great info thanks. Subbed.
Thanks it was a bit helpful. And no issues with your country accent 🤣👍
Thank you for a great video! Do you know what type of hull and base hull does the Estate red/yellow box use?
Interesting. Thanks.
Awesome, thanks for doing this video man.
Have you noticed any brand or style of hull that handles repeated roll crimping better than others? I have been playing around with some blue Rio medium height brass hulls from a bunch of lead #2 stuff I picked up a few years back. After one roll crimp, the plastic almost looks distorted / melted and has a seam all the way around it. Might be able to get a second reload on it but I was hoping they would last longer than that. It is also possible I am screwing up the roll crimp somehow.
Colson,
That’s an excellent question. I haven’t noticed one brand being easier to reload over the next. In the beginning, reloading once fired roll crimped hulls created a lot of problems due the the mouth of the hull being all crinkled and hardened for the gases when fired. The main issue was trying to figure out how to get the mouth of the hull back round. Then a discovered this neat little tool from Ballistic Products called the Spin Doctor. Put that bad boy in a drill or drill press and run in down the mouth of your hull. The friction created rounds out the mouth to almost factory condition making reloading a roll crimping that same hull a piece of cake. Hope this helps, brother!
Excellent, thanks. I have seen those in the past and wondered if they worth getting. I'll pick one up and see how it does.
Have you ever considered that almost all of the factory crimps are folded crimps? There's a reason for that. It's easier to do than a roll crimp. And can be repeated several times before the hull is worn out. And most all reloaders utilize a folded crimp built in.
I wish more people would of watched this, people are still saying that winchester went to the hs hull for safety reasons. LOL, Winchester went cheap with their shells and guns about the same time. Its a shame because they used to make some really nice shot guns and shells.
Great video! I joined your Facebook page also.
Steel Farmers awesome, brother! So good to have you aboard!
Great video.
Thank you for this great video, im juist getting into shotgun reloading after rifle reloading 30 years. What hull would you recommend for Tungsten shot? I am looking at reloading the new Sphero 18 Tungsten and curious what hulls are the best in 2 3/4 and 3 inch? Thank you!!!
Steven Laubach glad you got something out of it! For tungsten, you’re best bet is to got with a 3” straight wall hull like Fiocchi, Rio, or Cheddite. Depending on the load, you can also use 2.75” with tungsten .Of course you can use once fired hulls like Winchester or Remington. Hulls aren’t as important as wad selection. Make sure you use a wad designed for non-toxic shot.
Regardless, you can’t go wrong with any of the three that I’ve mentioned.
Good luck! You’ll love that tungsten!
Great info! Thanks....
Shotgun Hulls
Audio quality made it very hard to follow in spots.
.... i just want to make saiga 12 ammo
i enjoyed 90% of this video...the other 10% was muted due to you putting your finger over the mic of your camera
Mike McNiel noted. I bought a new camera specifically for UA-cam so the quality will be much better! Thanks for the honesty!
Terrible audio made it difficult to fallow the info presentation.
Otherwise very informative...
You really need to rethink your video technique because every 15 or 20 seconds to sound turns off and we can't hear what you're saying.