I had an issue with my V2 with the y driver on the motherboard after about 50 hours of printing. I reached out to the company and within about a week and a half a new motherboard was in my hands. It was very easy to install the new motherboard and now the printer is back to printing! Great customer service
Great to hear about the service. I’ve had nothing but good service as well. They are currently gone for a holiday at the moment so people gotta keep that in mind.
This is interesting. I got most of these upgrades on my regular aquila. I got the new shroud, PCBs, and fans that are here in the X2. I got my lever arm broken so that wasn't fixed.
I used the metal ender 3 extruder lever setup from Amazon for 15 bucks and it fits great on the existing motor. I've used TPU with no issue. Just print at a slower speed and adjust the hot end temp. No need for an expensive direct feed hot end.
6:39 *Handle is a solid upgrade. May not be necessary for many, especially if they have a printer workstation setup. But I prefer to print in my garage and then take it back indoor for storage. So my printer gets carried in and out a lot. So this handle is definitely an upgrade for those that need to carry their printer around.*
@@catdisc5304 *Cause it hurts like a mofo. lol. Try it. The edges are quite precise creating a perfect corner that digs into your fingers. The gantry isn't really thick so all the weight is just resting between the first and second knuckle. I currently wrapped pipe insulation foam around it as a solution, and after about 2 months, the gantry edges have tore through it. I'll probably need to find another piece of foam soon.* *I mean, depending on the grip, some ways might work better, but overall, it's not very comfortable and wasn't designed to be carried using that area.*
Check out the EnderXtender, they have Aquila compatible kits that can bring you to 400x400x500. Costs about the same as a second printer, but roughly $500 for that print volume is crazy.
@@3DPrintSOS I am sure it will. I really appreciate that you took the time for a deep dive. Some of use have a real interest in whats under the hood so the speak. I love that they made those incremental changes and did them silently without fanfare. Shows they they are truly interested in improving the product. Thanks for checking out the display and remembering my request. I still suspect that there are a few tweaks to that display including the encoder wheel. Now what we need is a large build surface machine. Can you say Aquila XL...lol! BTW you didn't compare part cooling fans and of interest to me at least, compare the ARM processors on the mother boards...STM32 or clone GM32? I'm sure it was just an oversight but important to anyone running community firmware down the road. Are we going to have a full 512k to play with or a hobbled 256k. If you get a chance can you check and report back? I assume that they will continue to swap them out back and forth depending on chip availability. Not an issue now but may become one as Marlin evolves and more and more features are added. Kind of like the issue with the old 8bit Ender3 boards and having to disable features to make room for other ones. Anyway one of your best videos yet! Appreciate your hard work. Edit:Forgot to add looks like they ditched the sketch coupler on the extruder end at least for a better quality one!
The cooling fan is the same “undated” brand so it’s different for sure. The chip on the board reads “Nation n32g452 REL7 Hb805011”. Funny that I forgot to mention those things in the vid. Got too excited. Lol 😂
@@3DPrintSOS Too tired tonight but will take a closer look tomorrow. Quick glance looks to be another ARM clone based on a 32-bit ARM Cortex-M4 core @ 144MHz with 144k SRAM and 512k flash if I am reading it right. Nothing wrong with that as far as I know so should be good to go in the future. Thanks again!
Excellent review, so impressed I went out and purchased one and should be delivered tomorrow (early crimbo present off the wife). Looking forward to putting it together and to finally start printing. Keep up the good work with these extremely informative videos.
Great Channel. Great job. Have watched almost all your videos, days not over yet, lol. Was ready to get the Ender 3 V2. Saw a comparison Between it and the Aquila, then saw this video comparing the standard Aqila to the X2. Bought the X2, waiting for it to come in.
Follow up question for you. When I receive my Aquila X2 would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the PTFE tubing that comes with it with Capricorn high PTFE tubing or just go with the stock tubing. Will
You mentioned in an Aquila video where you replaced the broken extruder gizmo that it also has a feature to improve the use of flexible filament. If I get the X2 should I just immediately print that new extruder gizmo thingy to improve flexible filament printing? Additional question, have you printed flexible filament on either of these and how well does it do besides that issue?
Yep, that’s a good move. Even if you don’t use it right away, having it as a backup is great. Oh yea for sure. I’ve printed a bunch of flexible filament. I have a video with TPU and a profile. ;)
Now that you have 2, and the X2 changes aren't that big from the original, can you start testing other upgrades vs stock, side by side to see if challenging prints do better with things like replaced/printed fan covers and additional fans like the "fang" design, BL Touch, etc?
I can pretty much answer that already with my Ender 3 experience. I modded it to death and back. That is why the stock Aquila caught my eye, because I was able to get prints with the stock printer that rivaled my super modded Ender 3 and even my custom machine that is well double if not triple in cost.
I upgraded my fans and hot end to gulf coast Robotics since the stock hot end didn't work well with PETG, also got a Ghub flexible metal plate and runs likes beast now.
Hmm I'm torn now. In your opinion is the changes on the X2 worth an extra $40 now that the aquila is on sale for $160? The changes look pretty minor except for the filament sensor and the vertical display. I will likey use Alex's firmware so I would mount the display vertically.
Thanks for the detailed look. How loud/silent would you say the stock fans are on the X2 (on the original those were the loudest components since the steppers are ultra silent)?
I bought one of these a couple months ago and took way longer than I expected to try and perfectly level the bed including using the 5 edge square stl print file to test it. I've sort of finally managed to level it but the bed is really scratched and the print quality is terrible with lots of stringing and gunk all over. What do you think I should do? Btw I think my filament somewhat gets damaged as the filament feeder has put lines through my filament from the grooves in the feeder. Should I order a glass bed replacement, fan replacement and feeder replacement or something? Something tells me that'll be quite costly too.
Nope. I think you should flip to the glass side of the bed, clean everything and start fresh from this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q7Mu05fZNsk/v-deo.html I think it’s all it’s the settings. Gotta go slow. I know a lot of people try to run before they can walk.
@@3DPrintSOS speaking of print quality, stringing etc. Could you send your cura profile? I can't seem to tweak mine good enough that it prevents all this. Another thing I should mention is the more I wore out my bed and cleaned it, the dotted parts started to sort of feel less rough and this brown dust started wiping off. I'm not sure if the dots are printed on or something to help with adhesion because it seems a bit too easy to accidentally scratch it off.
I also sometimes have issues where the hotend knocks off the print but it's still attached to the bed so it actually ends up knocking off the hole bed. I'm not sure if those tiny metal clips are just not good quality at keeping the glass bed on the build plate or if I'm doing something wrong here.
That’s fair and a good point. It’s not the quietest printer I own, but it also not the loudest. Making silent is just a matter of a replacing 3 fans. ;)
Добрый день не могли бы вы подсказать , вентилятор охлаждения материнской платы должен крутиться сразу или он хитрым способом подключается при нагреве драйверов ? У меня на гнезде подключения вентилятора платы напряжение равно нулю...
My AquilaX2 hotend fan started acting like it has bushings going dry (squeals until warmed up or tapping gets rotor centered). So I disassembled print head and cleaned the blades first, then carefully using xacto blade, peeled sticker off hub back plate. Surprise! No Access to motor bushing for servicing. Sealed unit! Drilled a tiny hole in plastic cap/cover to at least lubricat it and keep it going while I dig through my inventory for a better replacement fan. Never liked sealed BLDC units, they can die quick, smelly and noisy. If they had left it open like normal, a person could swap out the bushings for ball bearings as needed.
The fans on these things are just...bad. I’ve had to replace them on every single machine. A bit of a bummer but makes sense at the price range of this machine.
@@3DPrintSOS yeah I was happy to get one at the price. I can deal with a few shortcomings and I rarely leave anything electromechanical "stock" if I can Tim Taylor it lol.
I just purchased this printer and did a quiet fan upgrade to it. Absolutely love it. Do you have a video on your cura settings for these printers with PLA?
is there a software that works with the aquilla x2? i tried a lot of software but none work for it. i can not print anything other than a square. I tried getting help but my 3d printer doesnt even connect to my computer which makes the software everyone has told me to use wrong since it has to be connected to my pc.
thank you for comparing. Got x2. I have question: the fan of hotend starts with turn on printer, but how do that this fan will be started only when hotend is heating?
So I noticed on your original Aquila you used a custom printed part to get the screen positioned more flush with the base. Would you mind sharing the .stl for that part?
The X2 came with a filament sensor (still using Voxelab firmware). Question: when filament broke, I hit Start, but it tried to start over instead of resume. Is that right? Any way to resume print?
It should have started from the pause. Did you turn the machine off or wait a while by chance? I believe the pause command can only store the print for a short while before it would be forced to restart. Something like 20-30 minutes. But I honestly don’t remember off the top of my head what the number is.
I just ordered one of these yesterday, so I'm watching videos while I wait on it to ship. Do you have any tips or tricks on assembling or running the X2?
Noo...you popped THE question 😱😄 Honestly I dont like the "upgrades". They should have addressed the fan issue for real, put a decent extruder on it and give the hot end a bit TLC....and a handle ???Really? Who drags his printer constantly around ? Review nicely done...as usual,Fedor
I move my printer around alot. I'll take it to work with me or just move it to another room because of the sound. I don't have a camera set up to monitor my prints when I'm not there so I just take it with me lol
Nice video but I'm curious how you would compare the aquila X2 to the ender 3. The original aquilla is out of stock now (at least in Australia) and the ender 3 V2 costs quite a bit more than both the original ender 3 and aquilla X2 so which one would you recommend between the ender 3 and aquila X2?
If it’s out of stock, then I can’t quite recommend it. However the Aquila is literally an Ender 3 v2 for cheaper. So it’s a no brainer if you can get your hands on one.
What were the fixings like for assembly as they got quite a few complaints, current price difference in the UK is approx £50 between models as of Oct 2021. Has the thermal run away issue been addressed on the X2 and have you managed to break the extruder tension lever yet? :o)
Thanks for all the info. I have a Voxelab Aquila 2 and I would like to know if it is an easy upgrade to add a filament sensor like the Aquila X2. There is a connection socket on the mother board but i assume there would need to be an update for the software. If I purchased a Voxelab sensor from Voxelab would I also be able to get an update for the software at the same time. I am new to 3D printing and you videos are really helpful.
@@foresthillmx I had that problem on mine, too. The motherboard connector for the bed heater wasn't actually gripping the wire; only touching it. I had a tiny arc welder inside my machine! Once it burnt up the connector block, I got that interrupt message.
Hi my name is Dave and I'm in the UK. I'm just starting out in 3D printing so looking for value for money. Here in the UK we can but the original Aquila at £166, the C2 at £179 and the X2 at £239 although I've seen the X2 at £179. So Q what is the difference between the C2 and the X2 which one would be the better buy overall. I have watched a lot of your videos and they are most informative, so thanks .
Hi Fedor, great vid as usual, many thanks for your efforts. I actually bought an Aquila based on your review and have been printing without issue for a few days now. I have one question though regarding cable management, my X-Axis cable appears to touch the bed until the extruder lifts through the build. Do you think this is dangerous? And should/could this be improved. Would love your thoughts and a video on the subject would be even more appreciated. Kind regards.
Hmm. The trick I use for the cable is to route the ptfe under the cables coming from the hotend. That usually keeps the cables away from anything. I haven’t had any running issues on these machines. :/
@@3DPrintSOS cool, thank you for the reply, will try that. BTW your reviews are spot on, the Aquila is a beast for a beginner like me. Am so happy I took your advice. Cheers.
Hello, very good video how all those who publish congratulations and thanks for all the information you give us. I would like to ask you a question, what hotend do you recommend for this machine? The one that comes with the machine itself has been damaged, I was thinking of making an improvement to this section and now is the time to do it since the one that comes from the factory has spoiled I await your prompt response and thank you.
Hi Ricardo. I personally thing the Phaetus dragonfly hotend is an awesome upgrade for the machine. However, you will need to print an adapter and a shroud for it to work. So if you cannot print, you’d have to go with something like a microswiss all metal hotend. Alternatively, you can just grab another stock hotend and get yourself and all metal heatbreak and some nozzles. That will be a solid drop in upgrade as well.
Well, if you don't care about the 3 options? By the way I forgot to tell you that I live in Spain, I say it because of the links! Thank you very much for your answer!
Ah. I unfortunately have no links that would work for Spain. But yeah I think you could get great results with either solution. Plus they would allow you to print practically any material.
Plastic extruders are always low quality. That's the first required upgrade, ideally to an all metal double geared one, since the plastic never lasts more than a couple rolls of filament.
I just fired off an order on an x2 and now I wish I didn't. i don't want to have to fiddle with the firmware to install a BMG. I probably should've looked into this better and watched this video before I bought it.
hi im new to 3d printing and have just watched you video on voxelab aqila x2 upgraded, just so i understand would you say its a better machine than the c2, i would buy it off amazon best regards ian
Yeah I think it is. Several reasons, but the main two are silent steppers and color display on the Aquila x2. Honestly, the original Aquila is the best bang for the buck.
Any thoughts on my 1st gen Aquila stepper motor on extruder keeps popping and not moving the plastic.almost like gears in motor missing, tried new nozzle and upgraded aluminum extruder with no luck
I’m wanting to get into 3D printing and I have watched many of your videos and plan to watch all of them. I also shared several videos. I’m buying this printer as soon as I get a response from you about possibly where to buy and want to ask if you have any coupon codes? I thank you for your time and blunt videos that don’t constantly talk about your how big your dogs poop was today or some corny jokes. Not to mention that you don’t try to glorify yourself and come from the heart. If I had to bet, I’d bet your a Christian man. If you’re not, many apologies and no disrespect intended. Question #2, is there anything else I should go ahead and order with this printer? Extra filament and what brand and what kind? I’ll wait for response before I order. Question 3, do you know of the best place to order for the best price? Coupon code,etc… Question 4, will this support the multiple colors attachments I’ve seen and sent you a link to in my previous comment. I’m excited! I’m literally waiting for your reply before I order. My personal opinion: Your review words are LAW! Thanks again! Thanks again
@@3DPrintSOS that's good never had a 3d printer this is first one , is their any recommended upgrades that I should look at first or is it fine to start without. Haven't got a clue yet how to use.
Not that I wouldn’t want to farm them, just that they don’t have components on them that are meant to run 24/7. So if you do farm them, expect them to wear and expect to replace some parts. Fans for example. ;)
Main benefit of the landscape screen was the viewing angle of the LCD. How is that on the X2? It's one of the big complaints on the Ender 3 v2. And I think it also makes the printer a bit wider, right? In general I get the impression you are trying very hard to see improvements even when they're just unproven changes ... Different fans, but are they more quiet? Still PTFE all the way to the nozzle? Still a (different) plastic extruder - with a price uplift a metal extruder would have been expected. Still a covered PSU air vent. Same size bed and only a single Z leadscrew (not bad, but not better). Honestly, apart from a filament-sensor I see no improvement and the wiring of that sensor did not even seem to go into the sleeve with the other wires on your X2, which makes it look like it was just slapped on afterwards ... If I then look at the hefty price difference on Amazon, then I'd say they just try to get away from the #1 spot. If they stop producing the normal Aquila, I guess Elegoo will become the best cheap printer ... A pity ...
The display viewing angle was a concern for me but it’s perfectly fine. Maybe that’s why they kept the interface white, but no issue there. I was specifically looking for improvements and I think they are there. Be it, minor. Yes still ptfe to nozzle (totally a non issue). It is still a plastic extruder but if it works, does it matter? In my opinion, if the end result is reliable, good prints, this is a win. Only time will tell if the fans and the extruder arm will last longer than the original. Maybe I’m just a glass half full type of guy? :/
I have been waiting on this one buddy, so it is apparent that fans were an issue. The display was giving them fits or they would not have changed it. (opinion) Did it fix the issue of the display not fully working? Does the zed height work? Is the print time / remain time more reactive? That other Icon is flow I believe. I said before that zed height is an issue with me and it is because when I use multiple colors I use the zed height for a heads up that the change is coming so I can be ready to make the change quickly. Good dive, nice to know they are working on it. Like you I think this is just a fix the issues model. It may take them a while to produce a pinch the penny PRO model.;-)
@@3DPrintSOS on the display at the top there is an icon Z with arrows pointing up and down between the ceiling and floor. This tells you how far above the print bed you are actually printing. Example( 1.2mm next layer 1.4mm then 1.6mm) when printing at 0.2mm If your pause for a color change is coming at 4mm its nice to be able to get things ready by glancing at the display and knowing you are at 3.6mm.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks Feddor, I hate that the thing doesn't work. I could turn flash into an E3V2 with this Creality 4.2.7 board I bought for backup, but that would be like buying a Ford Cobra so you can put a Corvette engine in it. It is not something I want to do because I like my Aquilla. I am now hoping that the firmware is being updated and it will fix some issues like the zed readout for flash. I wish voxelab would be a little more forthcoming and provide bonifide answers to who's chip is being used on what boards and help the open source comunity to help them fix the firmware issues with the printer and the display. In other words Can I use V2 firmware on V1? Will it fix anything? I am glad you are so fond of our machines. Thanks for all you do to help.
Maybe the thicker hotend Gauge wire is to keep fluctuations down. I was having some major temp issues for a couple weeks after I started printing again, ended up having to push it to 215 just to keep it with in a 1 degree margin.
I'm having temp issues too. Intermittent temp fluctuations and an occasional 'temp out of range' error message which shuts the printer down. Voxelab thinks it's a thermistor problem and is sending me a new one. When it works it works well though, and I'm currently half way through a four hour print without any issues.
@@baxrok2. threw mine through a 16 hour the other day. Try putting your hotend temp about 10-15 degrees higher than bottom printing temp. However if it happens again I'm glad to know they'd be willing to warranty it.
@@3DPrintSOS I'll take a look when I get home. I'm interested in finding out whether it's an isolated issue or just a few models that went out with loose connections.
Well, thank you.... I was about to buy the original Aquila as a(n upcoming) birthday present to myself and now you show me this... For me, in my location, the price difference comes to about 45 dollars. Do you think the changes are worth this price difference? I'm leaning to yes, but if you think it's too much, I'll definitely take your suggestion into account.
If its 45 dollars, that's right there on the pivoting point. The issue with the v1 is there is a second version there too. You just cant tell which one you get. But the x2 definitely has these changes. So its up to you to decide whether you want the latest and greatest or go classic. :)
I would spend that money on a BLtouch, or a 3Dtouch and a dual gear extruder. Definitely worth way more than the x2. FWIW, you can print the handle and screen mount. My screen is vertically mounted, ad it's necessary with Alex Firmware, highly suggest you upgrade to this firmware after a couple of prints. A filament sensor costs like $10 on Amazon.
These are all true. But...keep in mind some people don’t want to tinker as much. I always forget myself but the. People remind me and I have change the way I think.
@@3DPrintSOS I'm at the same spot Robert is, where i live the price difference is 50$ I feel like for my first printer im just going to go for the classic one, as i feel like i wont really notice the difference... I might invest in a BLtouch or 3Dtouch just cause i cant be bothered to level the bed.. Im not going to be using this printer 24/7, it's just going to be a casual home printer where i sometimes print little gadgets or maybe accessories for my home / use them in projects with my raspberry pi Any suggestions? i would take your word for it
I don’t have that, just a knob. But I do have one of my Ender. I think it would fit perfect if that’s what you want. I’d search Thingiverse for a mod for the Ender and try it out.
the pcb on my my end stop is also green on my v1 and my fans are the same as the x2 but i just ordered it so they may have just switched to these parts and all the differences you pointed out are the same on mine aside from the screen orientation also have the support sticker
That’s very possible. This is definitely just an update on the original. Maybe there is actual name to it now and this is how the Aquila will be sold now.
Came to say my fans, endstop, color coded motherboard are all the same on my gen1 Aquila I purchased a couple weeks ago. Sounds like if you purchase a recent gen1 you’ll get the updated parts. Thanks for the video.
That’s good to know. My v1 is over a year old. The x2 is definitely just an update to the Aquila. It’s not a whole new machine. Still nice to see though.
I'm guessing that based on late Aquila 1 models having the same color coded connectors, it still has the GigaDevices chip on the main board. Could you check if this is the case?
@3DPrintSOS the one I got in June has alot of those changes w the exception of the turned screen. Tbh even w the improved plastic; Im still swapping out the filament tensioner to all metal (or your design) Ive added fans & coolers to the steppers, very sure mine has the new ver of the extruder shroud (single allen key screw) if it comes to it Ill just order the new screen later down the rabbit hole (:
@@3DPrintSOS Ps I also ran 3 x small 12v fans routed to a seperate PSU (Ill run it to the main onboard PSU one day soon; the type youd find back in the day for a PC drive bay 'cooler'; exactly what its from lol; in addition to the stepper fans; & placed it at the rear by the PSU; that in case PSU fan almost never comes on lol; Prints come out smother & can run higher speeds as a result it seems.
@@3DPrintSOSAgree w you 100% the version you got is probably the end form for v2 Ps You & I were emailing a while back on some changes I wanted to for an STL file to make a prototype; Im on ver 6.0 now next step is contacting the manufacturers & getting them to sponsor or flat out make it & pay the project developers (Us) a royalty. Lmk when we can further that conversation; remember this is an invention to work with Millions of existing devices in current use on the market NOW & this answers a very real need / problem at a very reasonable price + alot more. Speak soon mate
4:20 *Where can we find this modification to shift the screen over? This is my biggest pet peeve on the Aquila. I hate how the screen sticks out. I almost clipped it on something when I was carrying my printer.*
Nothing particularly exciting about the chip on the display PCB. It's a design by a Chinese company called DWIN and is an ASIC (application specific integrated circuit) which means it's really only designed to drive a LCD display. The chip is likely identical on each. When you see a 4 digit number on an IC it's typically a date code for when it was manufactured. So '1940' means 2019, 40th week. The two were just manufactured at different dates.
How r u Fedder its been a while. I was having issues with temperature jumps and drops before on the aquila i did research and changed mother board. I did one project worked good. Running another project with new Mother Board i see minimum fluctuations in temp but the machine still going. Not like before machine will go in auto shut off @150 degrees instead of 200 tops. I hope this is normal with new Mother Board. By the way Fedder rummors goes that there is an Ender 7 model able to print @ 225 mm per second can u elaborate on this info. God bless stay healthy.
I'm having temp issues too. Intermittent temp fluctuations and an occasional 'temp out of range' error message which shuts the printer down. Voxelab thinks it's the thermistor problem and is sending me a new one. When it works it works well though, and I'm currently half way through a four hour print without any issues.
Me too I guess Voxelab and all the other manufactures think us end users all have super tiny baby fingers that we will stick in there and get electrocuted or something...lol. They just seem to love to cover up those vent slots. Only thing I can think of but not probable is some type of EMI that exceeds some country's limit and a piece of sheet metal blocks enough to get it within allowable limits. IDK
I'd personally get the cheaper version and apply the money to mods or upgrades, all metal hotend, dual gear extruder, silent fans, bl touch, etc. If you have no interest in mods, the X2 at ~$200 is still quite the bargain!
@@3DPrintSOS Great video....How about a list of all mods (including where to purchase) of all mods required to get the original as close (or better) than the X2?
I find it really disappointing that manufacturers continue to use that same black plastic non-adjustable extruder arm. That has been a thoroughly documented problem going back to at least 2018 and the original Enders, and it's extremely lazy design to retain in 2021. BMG clones are available for
You’re not too far off base here. My hope is this machine helps them learn what people want and make enough money to make their own custom machine. Which is what they may be doing.
@@3DPrintSOS By all means. And to be clear, I think the Aquila v1 is an excellent machine all told, it duplicates the good and the bad of the openbuilds/v-roller design creality has so prolifically produced. It's an excellent starter printer, It just seems like this v2 could've been dressed up a bit more to justify a price hike. A titan direct drive extruder, for example. That's a fully open source design and would cost very little to produce. Would also make it stand out among the pack of 4-5 viable contenders in the ender/cr10 form factor.
For sure. I’m not saying this is what we hoped for...but hey, this is their take on the V2 of the Aquila. I’m thinking there will be a “pro” version with more, or a whole new printer coming.
At the moment I am still on the fence regarding getting a printer. If I do it will be a FDM. The Aquilla is definatly on my radar pricewise. However today I watched this video ua-cam.com/video/9Vai6NKxeG0/v-deo.html which made me think again. Is he right or just scare mongering?
Both? Huge respect to the man. We all have our opinions. I’ve had many of these. Mostly positive experiences. Some of my best prints ever were on stock Aquila’s.
I’m having issues with my Aquila X2. I tried to upgrade the software but now the screen is horizontal and I can’t load any prints. Anyone experience this issue? @3DPrintSOS
Oops. I personally haven’t tried to do firmware on it. It’s printing too good for me to mess with it. I would message support, maybe they can set you up with the right firmware files. Are you updating the motherboard first, then the screen?
@@3DPrintSOS I’ve been messaging them back and forth now for a day or so. They finally got engineering involved and are looking into how to get the issue resolved. Yep that and I’ve tried two different SD cards all the different DWIN files and their firmware files. Nothing has worked 😭 one thing I can’t seem to understand is the sticker on my machine shows N32. Rather then H32 🤔
I had an issue with my V2 with the y driver on the motherboard after about 50 hours of printing. I reached out to the company and within about a week and a half a new motherboard was in my hands. It was very easy to install the new motherboard and now the printer is back to printing! Great customer service
Great to hear about the service. I’ve had nothing but good service as well.
They are currently gone for a holiday at the moment so people gotta keep that in mind.
Nice! Been waiting to see what upgrades the X2 was going to have. The same mods should still work for the RGB fans and stuff it looks like!
Yep, that should all be the same.
This is interesting. I got most of these upgrades on my regular aquila. I got the new shroud, PCBs, and fans that are here in the X2. I got my lever arm broken so that wasn't fixed.
Awesome! That clears up a lot for me! Thank you!
Can you do a bl touch install on the Aquila? 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Yes
I did a CR touch install, which is the same. Check it out. ;)
Have you run into low temperature on nozzle, this problem show up after first print in my brand new Aquila x2
No, but it could be a loose thermistor on the hot end. Sometimes just removing it from the block and reinstalling fixes the issue.
@@3DPrintSOS yes it was a loose thermo connection tighten up and works great now.
Looking at buying my first one so it's great to see what I am getting and the subtle difference
Excellent review. I like the horizontal screen better, especially with your outstanding mod. Thanks!
Thanks! Yea there is something about that horizontal screen. It set this printer apart. I’d love to know an actual reason behind the change.
Awesome video dude, loved how In-depth you went.
Glad you liked it!
I used the metal ender 3 extruder lever setup from Amazon for 15 bucks and it fits great on the existing motor. I've used TPU with no issue. Just print at a slower speed and adjust the hot end temp. No need for an expensive direct feed hot end.
6:39 *Handle is a solid upgrade. May not be necessary for many, especially if they have a printer workstation setup. But I prefer to print in my garage and then take it back indoor for storage. So my printer gets carried in and out a lot. So this handle is definitely an upgrade for those that need to carry their printer around.*
Nice to hear an actual use case. Thanks.
I mean, sure, but why use the handle if you can just carry it by the gantry?
It looks nice. Makes it feel complete. If that’s not your thing, I understand. I can see why someone would want it though.
@@catdisc5304 *Cause it hurts like a mofo. lol. Try it. The edges are quite precise creating a perfect corner that digs into your fingers. The gantry isn't really thick so all the weight is just resting between the first and second knuckle. I currently wrapped pipe insulation foam around it as a solution, and after about 2 months, the gantry edges have tore through it. I'll probably need to find another piece of foam soon.*
*I mean, depending on the grip, some ways might work better, but overall, it's not very comfortable and wasn't designed to be carried using that area.*
I'm looking into a 2nd printer. I was really hoping the x2 had a bigger print volume. But its still on the top of my list.
I think a bigger printer from voxelab would be really welcomed by the community.
Check out the EnderXtender, they have Aquila compatible kits that can bring you to 400x400x500. Costs about the same as a second printer, but roughly $500 for that print volume is crazy.
@@IconOfCyn I have one on order. :)
Just what I was waiting for. Well done on the scoop and the deep dive!
Thanks! Hopefully this helps people make a decision :)
@@3DPrintSOS I am sure it will. I really appreciate that you took the time for a deep dive. Some of use have a real interest in whats under the hood so the speak. I love that they made those incremental changes and did them silently without fanfare. Shows they they are truly interested in improving the product. Thanks for checking out the display and remembering my request. I still suspect that there are a few tweaks to that display including the encoder wheel. Now what we need is a large build surface machine. Can you say Aquila XL...lol! BTW you didn't compare part cooling fans and of interest to me at least, compare the ARM processors on the mother boards...STM32 or clone GM32? I'm sure it was just an oversight but important to anyone running community firmware down the road. Are we going to have a full 512k to play with or a hobbled 256k. If you get a chance can you check and report back? I assume that they will continue to swap them out back and forth depending on chip availability. Not an issue now but may become one as Marlin evolves and more and more features are added. Kind of like the issue with the old 8bit Ender3 boards and having to disable features to make room for other ones. Anyway one of your best videos yet! Appreciate your hard work. Edit:Forgot to add looks like they ditched the sketch coupler on the extruder end at least for a better quality one!
The cooling fan is the same “undated” brand so it’s different for sure. The chip on the board reads “Nation n32g452 REL7 Hb805011”. Funny that I forgot to mention those things in the vid. Got too excited. Lol 😂
@@3DPrintSOS Too tired tonight but will take a closer look tomorrow. Quick glance looks to be another ARM clone based on a 32-bit ARM Cortex-M4 core @ 144MHz with 144k SRAM and 512k flash if I am reading it right. Nothing wrong with that as far as I know so should be good to go in the future. Thanks again!
That’s great. No problem.
I just ordered this as a complete noob. Hopefully it serves me well 😎🤙
How's it working?
Excellent review, so impressed I went out and purchased one and should be delivered tomorrow (early crimbo present off the wife). Looking forward to putting it together and to finally start printing. Keep up the good work with these extremely informative videos.
=>GREAT
Great Channel. Great job. Have watched almost all your videos, days not over yet, lol. Was ready to get the Ender 3 V2. Saw a comparison Between it and the Aquila, then saw this video comparing the standard Aqila to the X2. Bought the X2, waiting for it to come in.
Awesome! Thanks for the support.
Follow up question for you. When I receive my Aquila X2 would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the PTFE tubing that comes with it with Capricorn high PTFE tubing or just go with the stock tubing. Will
I say print on it completely stock until something gives you trouble. ;)
You mentioned in an Aquila video where you replaced the broken extruder gizmo that it also has a feature to improve the use of flexible filament. If I get the X2 should I just immediately print that new extruder gizmo thingy to improve flexible filament printing? Additional question, have you printed flexible filament on either of these and how well does it do besides that issue?
Yep, that’s a good move. Even if you don’t use it right away, having it as a backup is great.
Oh yea for sure. I’ve printed a bunch of flexible filament. I have a video with TPU and a profile. ;)
Good review. Thank you Fedor
Thanks! I was thinking if buying the Voxelab Aquila X2 :D
Solid machine but if find the original cheaper, go for it.
@@3DPrintSOS if you would have 250$, witch One would you pick?
Easy, original Aquila + some upgrades like fans, tubing, nozzle, pei sheet, and some filament. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS okay,ill think about it;)
Now that you have 2, and the X2 changes aren't that big from the original, can you start testing other upgrades vs stock, side by side to see if challenging prints do better with things like replaced/printed fan covers and additional fans like the "fang" design, BL Touch, etc?
I can pretty much answer that already with my Ender 3 experience. I modded it to death and back. That is why the stock Aquila caught my eye, because I was able to get prints with the stock printer that rivaled my super modded Ender 3 and even my custom machine that is well double if not triple in cost.
I upgraded my fans and hot end to gulf coast Robotics since the stock hot end didn't work well with PETG, also got a Ghub flexible metal plate and runs likes beast now.
Nice. I have a few Gulf Coast components. Haven’t let me down.
Please load a long part file name and see if it cuts it off or does it scroll.
I will happily try it out when I get home. For science!
@@3DPrintSOS She blinded me with that once.
Haha. I see what you did there.
Hmm I'm torn now. In your opinion is the changes on the X2 worth an extra $40 now that the aquila is on sale for $160? The changes look pretty minor except for the filament sensor and the vertical display. I will likey use Alex's firmware so I would mount the display vertically.
No, I would say stick with the original, you’ll be upgrading the fans and extruder at some point anyway. ;)
Thanks for the detailed look. How loud/silent would you say the stock fans are on the X2 (on the original those were the loudest components since the steppers are ultra silent)?
They are loud. I would say no change in noise levels.
Fans loud / stepper motors quite.
I bought one of these a couple months ago and took way longer than I expected to try and perfectly level the bed including using the 5 edge square stl print file to test it. I've sort of finally managed to level it but the bed is really scratched and the print quality is terrible with lots of stringing and gunk all over. What do you think I should do? Btw I think my filament somewhat gets damaged as the filament feeder has put lines through my filament from the grooves in the feeder. Should I order a glass bed replacement, fan replacement and feeder replacement or something? Something tells me that'll be quite costly too.
Nope. I think you should flip to the glass side of the bed, clean everything and start fresh from this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q7Mu05fZNsk/v-deo.html
I think it’s all it’s the settings. Gotta go slow. I know a lot of people try to run before they can walk.
@@3DPrintSOS k thx
@@3DPrintSOS speaking of print quality, stringing etc. Could you send your cura profile? I can't seem to tweak mine good enough that it prevents all this. Another thing I should mention is the more I wore out my bed and cleaned it, the dotted parts started to sort of feel less rough and this brown dust started wiping off. I'm not sure if the dots are printed on or something to help with adhesion because it seems a bit too easy to accidentally scratch it off.
I also sometimes have issues where the hotend knocks off the print but it's still attached to the bed so it actually ends up knocking off the hole bed. I'm not sure if those tiny metal clips are just not good quality at keeping the glass bed on the build plate or if I'm doing something wrong here.
(profile for pla btw)
Good video. Just would've been nice to hear what the printer sounds like in action rather than your choice of music 😜
That’s fair and a good point. It’s not the quietest printer I own, but it also not the loudest. Making silent is just a matter of a replacing 3 fans. ;)
Добрый день не могли бы вы подсказать , вентилятор охлаждения материнской платы должен крутиться сразу или он хитрым способом подключается при нагреве драйверов ? У меня на гнезде подключения вентилятора платы напряжение равно нулю...
Awesome video! Where can I find the file for the extruder adjustable lever arm?
www.printables.com/model/108511-fedorstruder-v20
When did everyone stop using lead screws on the Z axis?
Once Vorons became a thing haha. All Aquila’s have em though
My Aquilla had same fans as this X2. Anyway they were first thing I changed in the printer. But no color coded connectors.
Looks like they made these changes in phases. Thanks for letting me know. Super interesting how they did this whole thing.
My AquilaX2 hotend fan started acting like it has bushings going dry (squeals until warmed up or tapping gets rotor centered).
So I disassembled print head and cleaned the blades first, then carefully using xacto blade, peeled sticker off hub back plate.
Surprise! No Access to motor bushing for servicing. Sealed unit!
Drilled a tiny hole in plastic cap/cover to at least lubricat it and keep it going while I dig through my inventory for a better replacement fan. Never liked sealed BLDC units, they can die quick, smelly and noisy.
If they had left it open like normal, a person could swap out the bushings for ball bearings as needed.
The fans on these things are just...bad. I’ve had to replace them on every single machine. A bit of a bummer but makes sense at the price range of this machine.
@@3DPrintSOS yeah I was happy to get one at the price. I can deal with a few shortcomings and I rarely leave anything electromechanical "stock" if I can Tim Taylor it lol.
I can relate all too well. Haha
Fantastic video as always. 😁
Appreciate that. 🙏🏻
Hi, Fedor. Do you have the STL link for the relocation bracket for the original Aquila?
I just purchased this printer and did a quiet fan upgrade to it. Absolutely love it. Do you have a video on your cura settings for these printers with PLA?
I believe so. Some of the earlier vids have my pla profiles in the description. I still use them. :)
is there a software that works with the aquilla x2? i tried a lot of software but none work for it. i can not print anything other than a square. I tried getting help but my 3d printer doesnt even connect to my computer which makes the software everyone has told me to use wrong since it has to be connected to my pc.
thank you for comparing. Got x2.
I have question: the fan of hotend starts with turn on printer, but how do that this fan will be started only when hotend is heating?
Nope, on these machines it’s always on. And that’s a good thing. ;)
Uh oh, been running my Aquila for 48 hours straight, seems fine, but should I be looking into replacing the fan already?
Run it till it fails. ;)
What filament would you suggest to get for a first time newb buyer?
Is the thermal protection issue solved with this X2? I've seen other videos showing that the first version did not protect against thermal runaway.
All of the latest firmware on the voxelab site fixes the issue.
So I noticed on your original Aquila you used a custom printed part to get the screen positioned more flush with the base. Would you mind sharing the .stl for that part?
Sure thing. I have it on my Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792899
The X2 came with a filament sensor (still using Voxelab firmware). Question: when filament broke, I hit Start, but it tried to start over instead of resume. Is that right? Any way to resume print?
It should have started from the pause. Did you turn the machine off or wait a while by chance? I believe the pause command can only store the print for a short while before it would be forced to restart. Something like 20-30 minutes. But I honestly don’t remember off the top of my head what the number is.
I just ordered one of these yesterday, so I'm watching videos while I wait on it to ship. Do you have any tips or tricks on assembling or running the X2?
All of my videos for any Aquila will apply to the x2. ;) same with all the materials and Cura profiles. :)
I've also been using Prusaslicer with mine if you want to use non Cura. It prints very nicely out of Prusaslicer.
Noo...you popped THE question 😱😄 Honestly I dont like the "upgrades". They should have addressed the fan issue for real, put a decent extruder on it and give the hot end a bit TLC....and a handle ???Really? Who drags his printer constantly around ? Review nicely done...as usual,Fedor
Handle wise, a lot of elementary schools have started to have 3d printers, and they get moved quite a bit, at least around here.
Libraries too. I can see why its on there, just not something I use. If I move mine, I just used the top 2020 extrusion as a handle. LOL.
I mean, they are all new fans. Maybe they these will last longer. Time will tell.
I move my printer around alot. I'll take it to work with me or just move it to another room because of the sound. I don't have a camera set up to monitor my prints when I'm not there so I just take it with me lol
They will fail after the first long print. I had two new machines and did a 20+ hour print on each. Both printers fans failed.
Nice video but I'm curious how you would compare the aquila X2 to the ender 3.
The original aquilla is out of stock now (at least in Australia) and the ender 3 V2 costs quite a bit more than both the original ender 3 and aquilla X2 so which one would you recommend between the ender 3 and aquila X2?
If it’s out of stock, then I can’t quite recommend it. However the Aquila is literally an Ender 3 v2 for cheaper. So it’s a no brainer if you can get your hands on one.
@@3DPrintSOS Awesome, I just bought an aquila X2 because of this video/comment!
@@Break. me to : )
What were the fixings like for assembly as they got quite a few complaints, current price difference in the UK is approx £50 between models as of Oct 2021. Has the thermal run away issue been addressed on the X2 and have you managed to break the extruder tension lever yet? :o)
They all seem break. But the x2 is holding strong.
Thanks for all the info. I have a Voxelab Aquila 2 and I would like to know if it is an easy upgrade to add a filament sensor like the Aquila X2. There is a connection socket on the mother board but i assume there would need to be an update for the software. If I purchased a Voxelab sensor from Voxelab would I also be able to get an update for the software at the same time. I am new to 3D printing and you videos are really helpful.
Yes absolutely. You could just run the x2 firmware. As long as your chip is matched. ;) or you can always enable in in 3rd party firmware like Alexs
Are either of the Aquila printers compatible with the Ender3 Microswiss upgrades?
Yep. Both of them.
Would you say it’s required to print the thing you made for the extruded block? Was just hoping for it to last forever.
Not required, but it’ll help.
Have you had your Aquila just shut off mid print? I'm having non stop issues with my Aquila V1. Any help would be awesome!
I have not. Does it give any kind of error?
@@3DPrintSOS no it just says your printer has been interupted. Would you like to resume?
@@foresthillmx I had that problem on mine, too. The motherboard connector for the bed heater wasn't actually gripping the wire; only touching it. I had a tiny arc welder inside my machine! Once it burnt up the connector block, I got that interrupt message.
@@patrickclawson9622 I checked all connections. All good. They said my motherboard was bad so they sent me a new one. Same thing
@@3DPrintSOS could it be a power supply issue? Didn't ender 3 printers do this when their power supply went weak or died?
Hi my name is Dave and I'm in the UK. I'm just starting out in 3D printing so looking for value for money. Here in the UK we can but the original Aquila at £166, the C2 at £179 and the X2 at £239 although I've seen the X2 at £179. So Q what is the difference between the C2 and the X2 which one would be the better buy overall. I have watched a lot of your videos and they are most informative, so thanks .
Hi Dave. The X2 is only better if the price is right. I would go for the original Aquila at this point. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks Fedor , your lucky you can get the printers in dollars for we are having to pay the same for in GBP (£)
Hi Fedor, great vid as usual, many thanks for your efforts. I actually bought an Aquila based on your review and have been printing without issue for a few days now. I have one question though regarding cable management, my X-Axis cable appears to touch the bed until the extruder lifts through the build. Do you think this is dangerous? And should/could this be improved. Would love your thoughts and a video on the subject would be even more appreciated. Kind regards.
Hmm. The trick I use for the cable is to route the ptfe under the cables coming from the hotend. That usually keeps the cables away from anything. I haven’t had any running issues on these machines. :/
@@3DPrintSOS cool, thank you for the reply, will try that. BTW your reviews are spot on, the Aquila is a beast for a beginner like me. Am so happy I took your advice. Cheers.
Thanks! I’m glad I could help in some way
You should go wild with upgrade s on the original aquila now that I have the v2 to keep stock.
🤔 Hmmmm
Hello, very good video how all those who publish congratulations and thanks for all the information you give us.
I would like to ask you a question, what hotend do you recommend for this machine? The one that comes with the machine itself has been damaged, I was thinking of making an improvement to this section and now is the time to do it since the one that comes from the factory has spoiled
I await your prompt response and thank you.
Hi Ricardo. I personally thing the Phaetus dragonfly hotend is an awesome upgrade for the machine. However, you will need to print an adapter and a shroud for it to work. So if you cannot print, you’d have to go with something like a microswiss all metal hotend. Alternatively, you can just grab another stock hotend and get yourself and all metal heatbreak and some nozzles. That will be a solid drop in upgrade as well.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you very much for your answer, could you give me purchase links please?
Which one are you thinking about doing. Stock with mods, micro Swiss, or phaetus?
Well, if you don't care about the 3 options?
By the way I forgot to tell you that I live in Spain, I say it because of the links!
Thank you very much for your answer!
Ah. I unfortunately have no links that would work for Spain. But yeah I think you could get great results with either solution. Plus they would allow you to print practically any material.
Howdy can you please share a link for the fan upgrade you put on your original Aquila the LEDs look cool
Sure thing: amzn.to/2ZtwECD
Plastic extruders are always low quality. That's the first required upgrade, ideally to an all metal double geared one, since the plastic never lasts more than a couple rolls of filament.
Not always. BMG, orbiter, and many printable extruders (just to list a few) are all excellent.
what types of filament can this use?
Almost everything with a few cheap mods. Stock it can do pla, pla+, petg, pvb, and other low temp materials.
I just fired off an order on an x2 and now I wish I didn't. i don't want to have to fiddle with the firmware to install a BMG. I probably should've looked into this better and watched this video before I bought it.
I think you should be fine without a bmg. Is there a specific reason for it?
hi im new to 3d printing and have just watched you video on voxelab aqila x2 upgraded, just so i understand would you say its a better machine than the c2, i would buy it off amazon best regards ian
Yeah I think it is. Several reasons, but the main two are silent steppers and color display on the Aquila x2. Honestly, the original Aquila is the best bang for the buck.
Can the Aquila Be set to print over 250 with an all metal hot end?
260 is what it maxes out at. However, if you download the source code of the firmware, you can compile it yourself and change the max figures.
Could the mainboard be replaced by a Bigtreetech or similar?
Anything you can do to a Ender 3, you could do to the voxelab. The screen is the only questionable thing.
Curious to know if you need to calibrate the xyz steps and extruder on these or if stock is good?
Any thoughts on my 1st gen Aquila stepper motor on extruder keeps popping and not moving the plastic.almost like gears in motor missing, tried new nozzle and upgraded aluminum extruder with no luck
I’m wanting to get into 3D printing and I have watched many of your videos and plan to watch all of them. I also shared several videos.
I’m buying this printer as soon as I get a response from you about possibly where to buy and want to ask if you have any coupon codes?
I thank you for your time and blunt videos that don’t constantly talk about your how big your dogs poop was today or some corny jokes.
Not to mention that you don’t try to glorify yourself and come from the heart.
If I had to bet, I’d bet your a Christian man.
If you’re not, many apologies and no disrespect intended.
Question #2, is there anything else I should go ahead and order with this printer?
Extra filament and what brand and what kind?
I’ll wait for response before I order.
Question 3, do you know of the best place to order for the best price? Coupon code,etc…
Question 4, will this support the multiple colors attachments I’ve seen and sent you a link to in my previous comment.
I’m excited!
I’m literally waiting for your reply before I order.
My personal opinion:
Your review words are LAW!
Thanks again!
Thanks again
i have aquila c2 can you set up it step by step
I tried to order an X2 but couldn't get it here in UK so I've had to order the Original Aquila.
That’s not a bad thing. The original is still great. :)
@@3DPrintSOS that's good never had a 3d printer this is first one , is their any recommended upgrades that I should look at first or is it fine to start without. Haven't got a clue yet how to use.
Nope. Just use it the way it is until something breaks. It prints amazing right from the box. Learning how to calibrate is more important ;)
@@3DPrintSOS I print out those first things to break first.
The X2 address somethings, I’m still printing out spare parts first thing!
Can u update the original Aquila to have sense filament when it’s running low? Thanks keep the videos coming! Love them!!
Yes. They are available on Amazon for $10 +
You mentioned that you would not want a farm of Aquila printers. What would your recommend if you want several for production?
Not that I wouldn’t want to farm them, just that they don’t have components on them that are meant to run 24/7. So if you do farm them, expect them to wear and expect to replace some parts. Fans for example. ;)
is there an SD card slot
Main benefit of the landscape screen was the viewing angle of the LCD. How is that on the X2? It's one of the big complaints on the Ender 3 v2. And I think it also makes the printer a bit wider, right? In general I get the impression you are trying very hard to see improvements even when they're just unproven changes ... Different fans, but are they more quiet? Still PTFE all the way to the nozzle? Still a (different) plastic extruder - with a price uplift a metal extruder would have been expected. Still a covered PSU air vent. Same size bed and only a single Z leadscrew (not bad, but not better). Honestly, apart from a filament-sensor I see no improvement and the wiring of that sensor did not even seem to go into the sleeve with the other wires on your X2, which makes it look like it was just slapped on afterwards ... If I then look at the hefty price difference on Amazon, then I'd say they just try to get away from the #1 spot. If they stop producing the normal Aquila, I guess Elegoo will become the best cheap printer ... A pity ...
The display viewing angle was a concern for me but it’s perfectly fine. Maybe that’s why they kept the interface white, but no issue there.
I was specifically looking for improvements and I think they are there. Be it, minor. Yes still ptfe to nozzle (totally a non issue). It is still a plastic extruder but if it works, does it matter?
In my opinion, if the end result is reliable, good prints, this is a win. Only time will tell if the fans and the extruder arm will last longer than the original.
Maybe I’m just a glass half full type of guy? :/
I have been waiting on this one buddy, so it is apparent that fans were an issue. The display was giving them fits or they would not have changed it. (opinion) Did it fix the issue of the display not fully working? Does the zed height work? Is the print time / remain time more reactive? That other Icon is flow I believe. I said before that zed height is an issue with me and it is because when I use multiple colors I use the zed height for a heads up that the change is coming so I can be ready to make the change quickly. Good dive, nice to know they are working on it. Like you I think this is just a fix the issues model. It may take them a while to produce a pinch the penny PRO model.;-)
Right. I think this is just a new version of the loved Aquila. No the time is the same. Not sure what you mean about zed height.
@@3DPrintSOS on the display at the top there is an icon Z with arrows pointing up and down between the ceiling and floor. This tells you how far above the print bed you are actually printing. Example( 1.2mm next layer 1.4mm then 1.6mm) when printing at 0.2mm If your pause for a color change is coming at 4mm its nice to be able to get things ready by glancing at the display and knowing you are at 3.6mm.
Ah. I see. Next time I print, I’ll check to see if that’s working.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks Feddor, I hate that the thing doesn't work. I could turn flash into an E3V2 with this Creality 4.2.7 board I bought for backup, but that would be like buying a Ford Cobra so you can put a Corvette engine in it. It is not something I want to do because I like my Aquilla. I am now hoping that the firmware is being updated and it will fix some issues like the zed readout for flash. I wish voxelab would be a little more forthcoming and provide bonifide answers to who's chip is being used on what boards and help the open source comunity to help them fix the firmware issues with the printer and the display. In other words Can I use V2 firmware on V1? Will it fix anything? I am glad you are so fond of our machines. Thanks for all you do to help.
I get it believe me. First machine, bound to have little issues.
Maybe the thicker hotend Gauge wire is to keep fluctuations down. I was having some major temp issues for a couple weeks after I started printing again, ended up having to push it to 215 just to keep it with in a 1 degree margin.
Yea its possible. I'll monitor that as I print.
I'm having temp issues too. Intermittent temp fluctuations and an occasional 'temp out of range' error message which shuts the printer down. Voxelab thinks it's a thermistor problem and is sending me a new one. When it works it works well though, and I'm currently half way through a four hour print without any issues.
@@baxrok2. threw mine through a 16 hour the other day. Try putting your hotend temp about 10-15 degrees higher than bottom printing temp. However if it happens again I'm glad to know they'd be willing to warranty it.
Have you looked at the thermistor? Try to remove it, clean it, and reinstall. Could also be a lose where connection at the motherboard.
@@3DPrintSOS I'll take a look when I get home. I'm interested in finding out whether it's an isolated issue or just a few models that went out with loose connections.
How did you tweaked /moved the horizontal display holder inside / on the original?
I designed a printable bracket and uploaded it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792899
@@3DPrintSOS thanks !
Absolutely
Well, thank you.... I was about to buy the original Aquila as a(n upcoming) birthday present to myself and now you show me this... For me, in my location, the price difference comes to about 45 dollars. Do you think the changes are worth this price difference? I'm leaning to yes, but if you think it's too much, I'll definitely take your suggestion into account.
If its 45 dollars, that's right there on the pivoting point. The issue with the v1 is there is a second version there too. You just cant tell which one you get. But the x2 definitely has these changes. So its up to you to decide whether you want the latest and greatest or go classic. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you. I think that made up my mind ;-)
I would spend that money on a BLtouch, or a 3Dtouch and a dual gear extruder. Definitely worth way more than the x2. FWIW, you can print the handle and screen mount. My screen is vertically mounted, ad it's necessary with Alex Firmware, highly suggest you upgrade to this firmware after a couple of prints.
A filament sensor costs like $10 on Amazon.
These are all true. But...keep in mind some people don’t want to tinker as much. I always forget myself but the. People remind me and I have change the way I think.
@@3DPrintSOS I'm at the same spot Robert is, where i live the price difference is 50$
I feel like for my first printer im just going to go for the classic one, as i feel like i wont really notice the difference...
I might invest in a BLtouch or 3Dtouch just cause i cant be bothered to level the bed..
Im not going to be using this printer 24/7, it's just going to be a casual home printer where i sometimes print little gadgets or maybe accessories for my home / use them in projects with my raspberry pi
Any suggestions? i would take your word for it
where i can print the z-screw support for the aquila 1 that you have i bet you have bearing up there and something to hold it give us more info pls :)
I don’t have that, just a knob. But I do have one of my Ender. I think it would fit perfect if that’s what you want. I’d search Thingiverse for a mod for the Ender and try it out.
the pcb on my my end stop is also green on my v1 and my fans are the same as the x2 but i just ordered it so they may have just switched to these parts and all the differences you pointed out are the same on mine aside from the screen orientation also have the support sticker
That’s very possible. This is definitely just an update on the original. Maybe there is actual name to it now and this is how the Aquila will be sold now.
Came to say my fans, endstop, color coded motherboard are all the same on my gen1 Aquila I purchased a couple weeks ago. Sounds like if you purchase a recent gen1 you’ll get the updated parts. Thanks for the video.
That’s good to know. My v1 is over a year old. The x2 is definitely just an update to the Aquila. It’s not a whole new machine. Still nice to see though.
Where can I find the printable power supply cover?
Thingiverse has a few. I believe the Ender 3 v2 covers also fit. ;)
I'm guessing that based on late Aquila 1 models having the same color coded connectors, it still has the GigaDevices chip on the main board.
Could you check if this is the case?
The chip on the board reads “Nation N32G452 REL7 HB805011”
@@3DPrintSOS so is this a real arm cpu or a “fake” like the Giga version? The main reason for returning the og model.
Not sure. What’s the dead giveaway? I can check
build volume still the same?
Identical. ;)
@3DPrintSOS the one I got in June has alot of those changes w the exception of the turned screen. Tbh even w the improved plastic; Im still swapping out the filament tensioner to all metal (or your design) Ive added fans & coolers to the steppers, very sure mine has the new ver of the extruder shroud (single allen key screw) if it comes to it Ill just order the new screen later down the rabbit hole (:
Yep. I’m thinking this is the definitive second version with final changes.
@@3DPrintSOS Ps I also ran 3 x small 12v fans routed to a seperate PSU (Ill run it to the main onboard PSU one day soon; the type youd find back in the day for a PC drive bay 'cooler'; exactly what its from lol; in addition to the stepper fans; & placed it at the rear by the PSU; that in case PSU fan almost never comes on lol; Prints come out smother & can run higher speeds as a result it seems.
Hmm. Interesting.
@@3DPrintSOSAgree w you 100% the version you got is probably the end form for v2 Ps You & I were emailing a while back on some changes I wanted to for an STL file to make a prototype; Im on ver 6.0 now next step is contacting the manufacturers & getting them to sponsor or flat out make it & pay the project developers (Us) a royalty. Lmk when we can further that conversation; remember this is an invention to work with Millions of existing devices in current use on the market NOW & this answers a very real need / problem at a very reasonable price + alot more. Speak soon mate
@@mikm.6375 I vaguely remember that. You'll have to refresh my memory on the subject at some point.
Are you going to get the Voxel Lab Aries?
that would be great
If the opportunity presents itself, I’d love to share it with you all. :)
Did your X2 come with a STM32 or GD32 chip?
The chip on the board reads “Nation N32G452 REL7 HB805011”
Do you sell the adjust you made?
Not sure what you are referring to.
@@3DPrintSOS I am referring to the filament feeder thing that cracked.
nice video i wonder if it prints the same
It does. Got a few prints done and they are flawless.
4:20 *Where can we find this modification to shift the screen over? This is my biggest pet peeve on the Aquila. I hate how the screen sticks out. I almost clipped it on something when I was carrying my printer.*
I designed it and uploaded to thingiverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792899
@@3DPrintSOS *Thanks!*
Hmmm, we have different fail points. I destroyed my hot end with early fumbling. My bowden tube broke in a day, have not had a fan failure yet.
Hey, at least it’s really inexpensive and now you can grab a much higher quality tube like tecboss.
Nothing particularly exciting about the chip on the display PCB. It's a design by a Chinese company called DWIN and is an ASIC (application specific integrated circuit) which means it's really only designed to drive a LCD display.
The chip is likely identical on each. When you see a 4 digit number on an IC it's typically a date code for when it was manufactured. So '1940' means 2019, 40th week. The two were just manufactured at different dates.
Ah. Good to know. I’d love to learn more about this stuff at some point.
Nice Job
Thanks!
still trying to get mine working
How r u Fedder its been a while. I was having issues with temperature jumps and drops before on the aquila i did research and changed mother board. I did one project worked good. Running another project with new Mother Board i see minimum fluctuations in temp but the machine still going. Not like before machine will go in auto shut off @150 degrees instead of 200 tops. I hope this is normal with new Mother Board. By the way Fedder rummors goes that there is an Ender 7 model able to print @ 225 mm per second can u elaborate on this info. God bless stay healthy.
I wonder if you can do some PID tuning to help. Oh nice, I haven’t followed creality too closely. But I should.
I'm having temp issues too. Intermittent temp fluctuations and an occasional 'temp out of range' error message which shuts the printer down. Voxelab thinks it's the thermistor problem and is sending me a new one. When it works it works well though, and I'm currently half way through a four hour print without any issues.
Have you been successful with PETG on the Aquila? I cannot get it to run no matter what I do. PLA is great but PETG fails every time.
Yep, I have a video on it. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS yeah I caught that. I’ll take a look
Hope it helps.
PETG I find prints nicely when you slow it down and turn the part cooling fan off.
@@stonefarmer3005 yeah today I went all the way down to 15 and no fan
Surprised the power supply exhaust is still covered up on the X2..
Same. But hey, maybe it’s not an actual problem.
@@3DPrintSOS I'm sure the power supply manufacturer would disagree.
Me too I guess Voxelab and all the other manufactures think us end users all have super tiny baby fingers that we will stick in there and get electrocuted or something...lol. They just seem to love to cover up those vent slots. Only thing I can think of but not probable is some type of EMI that exceeds some country's limit and a piece of sheet metal blocks enough to get it within allowable limits. IDK
You’re probably right. I honestly don’t know why there are no cutouts. At the same time, hard to believe they would ship this without testing.
There’s gotta be a reason for it. Maybe one day they will do a live stream or a ask me anything type thing and we can finally find out for sure.
Nice video.
Thank you!
I'd personally get the cheaper version and apply the money to mods or upgrades, all metal hotend, dual gear extruder, silent fans, bl touch, etc. If you have no interest in mods, the X2 at ~$200 is still quite the bargain!
Yep, exactly.
@@3DPrintSOS Great video....How about a list of all mods (including where to purchase) of all mods required to get the original as close (or better) than the X2?
That’s a great idea. Won’t be much of a list honestly. Their print quality is the same. My og aquila is still printing perfectly.
love when he says budget. but it cost $500 how is that budget :)
The Aquila X2 can be had for under $200
from where?
I did enjoy the video thou very informative
amzn.to/3SW7wLO $189
Its AKEELA!
More like Aquila 1.1 😉
Very good video, but the backgrauond"music" is really useless. Why do so much people ruin their videos in this way?
Thanks! Just doing what I enjoy. Sorry you dont share my taste in music. :/
@@3DPrintSOS No problem, thanx for your answer. Of course you should do this in your style. I just think about it in a lot of videos: O)
I find it really disappointing that manufacturers continue to use that same black plastic non-adjustable extruder arm. That has been a thoroughly documented problem going back to at least 2018 and the original Enders, and it's extremely lazy design to retain in 2021. BMG clones are available for
You’re not too far off base here. My hope is this machine helps them learn what people want and make enough money to make their own custom machine. Which is what they may be doing.
@@3DPrintSOS By all means. And to be clear, I think the Aquila v1 is an excellent machine all told, it duplicates the good and the bad of the openbuilds/v-roller design creality has so prolifically produced. It's an excellent starter printer, It just seems like this v2 could've been dressed up a bit more to justify a price hike. A titan direct drive extruder, for example. That's a fully open source design and would cost very little to produce. Would also make it stand out among the pack of 4-5 viable contenders in the ender/cr10 form factor.
For sure. I’m not saying this is what we hoped for...but hey, this is their take on the V2 of the Aquila. I’m thinking there will be a “pro” version with more, or a whole new printer coming.
Doesn't seem like it is worth the price increase.
At the moment I am still on the fence regarding getting a printer. If I do it will be a FDM. The Aquilla is definatly on my radar pricewise. However today I watched this video ua-cam.com/video/9Vai6NKxeG0/v-deo.html which made me think again. Is he right or just scare mongering?
Both? Huge respect to the man. We all have our opinions. I’ve had many of these. Mostly positive experiences. Some of my best prints ever were on stock Aquila’s.
I’m having issues with my Aquila X2. I tried to upgrade the software but now the screen is horizontal and I can’t load any prints. Anyone experience this issue? @3DPrintSOS
Oops. I personally haven’t tried to do firmware on it. It’s printing too good for me to mess with it. I would message support, maybe they can set you up with the right firmware files. Are you updating the motherboard first, then the screen?
@@3DPrintSOS I’ve been messaging them back and forth now for a day or so. They finally got engineering involved and are looking into how to get the issue resolved. Yep that and I’ve tried two different SD cards all the different DWIN files and their firmware files. Nothing has worked 😭 one thing I can’t seem to understand is the sticker on my machine shows N32. Rather then H32 🤔
did you try using the USB connector
to upload files
There must have been a bunch of different manufacturers because of the chip shortage