Solved my unbearable braking vibration after a lengthy and soul destroying hunt down of the issue. I've had the carrier off when it's been zero degrees and hammering it down plus all sorts of other madness. With a pry bar, the main bush on the drivers side seemed solid enough, went through two MOT's with it FFS 😂. Removed, you can stick a screwdriver through the bolt sleeve and stir it like soup. I don't know what's gone on there. Car is finally spot on again.
The control arm nut on the spindle is a pain to remove without the electric tools. I still have to figure out a way to remove it. It spins together with the ball joint at this point and I only managed to destroy a T40 bit in the process 😂
Thanks mate, that sounds fun haha! If you don’t want to do it yourself then well worth getting in touch with Mike at GearLab - if you do let him know I sent you👍🏻
And the way of fastening looks almost identical. What a terrible driving experience. The chassis side of bushing has at least 5mm of offset when weight on wheel
Another great vid ,,George ,,,can't wait utill ,,you get a f30 m sport ,,so I can follow your procedures and tips ,,,🤣🤣🤣🤣 keep em coming mate and stay safe all 👍
Def gonna save me hella money they wanted a lil more than 800 for the parts and install at a service spot in town. I got the parts for like a hundred and thirty. I just needed the front.
Hi George can you do a quick demo video of how you used ista for the torque settings and workshop information. I know this has replaced bmw tis for newer models but havnt yet learned how to do so. I think a lot of your followers would be interested as there doesn't seem to be much info on this around the net biddy
Great video. I recently had new front discs/pads on my E91, which lately developed a vibration. The garage I took it to say the discs have warped & destroyed the control arms as a result. I find this hard to believe! Is it more likely the arms had play when the discs & pads were replaced? I’m not sure what to do now & don’t trust the garage to sort it so tempted to replace the arms myself.
Good work mate! need to check mines, in idle I feel some vibration on board and having 105k miles being a 335d perhaps it will improve. Thanks for sharing it.
@@GeorgeAusters I think so, they don't seem to wear quite as much but if they do go afterwards you have to get the wheel alignment done all over again.
@@brodiehaward I want to keep it standard really, I know that M3 arms improve the handling but they can also cause more tyre wear and a harsher ride. I don't buy from Autodoc, I have experienced their poor customer service.
@@simonh870 fair enough. Ive never had a bad experience with AUTODOC, so for as long as my luck lasts i intend to stick with them. They are rarely beaten on price for most items and usually I receive the bits within 8 days.
Yes, I was about to ask the same thing. Anyone using M3 arms? It´s suposed to be an easy upgrade as the rubber part on M3 arms is more solid than normal E9x/E8x
hi, on my 2006 e87 i have problem that front wheel has big play forward backward when i stay in front of the wheel and kick it with a leg. is this related to control arm only or can be something else ?
@@GeorgeAusters That's only true for the control arms but not the thrust arms that the video is about. The M3 version of thrust arms are not affecting the geometry. It's just give you more stiff bushings.
Timely…. I’m replacing them on my 130 with M3 items in the spring (it’s too sodding cold at the mo 😂). Just out if interest, how to you know which grade bolt you have?
Hi, thanks for the videos. That car with 100K miles , hummm, I think it needs to change the gearbox oil, the power steering oil and the differential gear oil. we want to see.
@@GeorgeAusters On your previous video I commented that I’d coded out the stop-start feature on my F30. Comment disappeared so I reposted it. Disappeared again. I wonder if UA-cam deleted it because I mentioned the software i used…
@@jonathanowen6147 Interesting! Yes I never even got to see those comments, I'm pretty sure I did block all links though because I had an issue with scammers spamming their links before
You are correct - that's why it says "tighten down in normal position" in TIS instructions. "Normal" position is when wheels are loaded, i.e. on the ground
bro i have a question, i got a F30 2.0 Diesel but i had a accident and i had to renew the whole left fender + light, all those control arms... but i didnt know u need to torque them when they'r on weight... i can tell u i got a little vibration on the left side and cant solve it. i bought allready 2 sets of wheels 1 was bad other one is balanced and is good. even if i drive in corners the car feels weird like its gonne brake out it only got 163hp :( since i have the car i never gone higher then 180km/h = 111mph cuz the car is healthy enough service is a must but it drives like sht. if i see in your videos how it needs to be driving then damn i bought the rong car.... ps: Love your videos, simple and easy love it. sorry for my bad english.
Thanks for demonstrating the wobble. I wasn’t sure why I was told they need replacement but that’s it.
Glad to help!
Mate you always seem to release videos the day before I’m about to do the same job I love it 😂
Hahaha brilliant!
Solved my unbearable braking vibration after a lengthy and soul destroying hunt down of the issue. I've had the carrier off when it's been zero degrees and hammering it down plus all sorts of other madness.
With a pry bar, the main bush on the drivers side seemed solid enough, went through two MOT's with it FFS 😂.
Removed, you can stick a screwdriver through the bolt sleeve and stir it like soup. I don't know what's gone on there.
Car is finally spot on again.
The control arm nut on the spindle is a pain to remove without the electric tools. I still have to figure out a way to remove it. It spins together with the ball joint at this point and I only managed to destroy a T40 bit in the process 😂
You've done some great videos on the e90 3 series mate, thanks!
Great and essential "how-to"! Funny that the torque wrench is made in Poland 🙂
Perfect video! Great that you always properly go through the torqueing, very important
Thanks man!
Great work George. Tempted to put a pry bar on all my suspension arms to check for any play now.
Worth doing mate!
One of my favourite UA-camrs
Thanks bro!
yet another good video, keep it up bud. Looks like I am going to have to rebuild my diff on my e91 as I think bearings have gone, oh no
Thanks mate, that sounds fun haha! If you don’t want to do it yourself then well worth getting in touch with Mike at GearLab - if you do let him know I sent you👍🏻
“Anuuutha” excellent video! Thanks.
Gonna check the control arms on our E91 now thanks George :)
Thanks for the video! Just got these changed on my e92 today with your help💪
Great video! My E84 is getting new one this week. Looks like an easy job
And the way of fastening looks almost identical. What a terrible driving experience. The chassis side of bushing has at least 5mm of offset when weight on wheel
Another great vid ,,George ,,,can't wait utill ,,you get a f30 m sport ,,so I can follow your procedures and tips ,,,🤣🤣🤣🤣 keep em coming mate and stay safe all 👍
TRW makes the control arms. It’s the same parent company (ZF, lemforder)
TRW Control arm
Excellent informative video! I'm now happy to tackle the job!
Amazing, thanks once again!
You’re welcome
I have to do the same to 120d. Well done as usual.
Exactly the same process then!
Thanks legend, I am doing the same thing on my E90
Good luck!
Prefer the m3 ones. May as well do both on each side. Nice clear instructions. ✌️👍🇬🇧
Brilliant vid. Perfectly explained.
Def gonna save me hella money they wanted a lil more than 800 for the parts and install at a service spot in town. I got the parts for like a hundred and thirty. I just needed the front.
Hi George can you do a quick demo video of how you used ista for the torque settings and workshop information. I know this has replaced bmw tis for newer models but havnt yet learned how to do so. I think a lot of your followers would be interested as there doesn't seem to be much info on this around the net biddy
Yeah will have to do it sometime mate👍🏻
Looks like an easy job. Cheers
Yeah isn’t too bad!
Could you do a video on the whole control arms kit
Do you want to send me the kit out then?
@@GeorgeAusters 😂 no thxs but when replacing the control arms can we reuse the same bolts or do we need to buy a new one and the nut too?
@@hectorespinoza7641 All TTY bolts need to be replaced
Great video. I recently had new front discs/pads on my E91, which lately developed a vibration. The garage I took it to say the discs have warped & destroyed the control arms as a result. I find this hard to believe! Is it more likely the arms had play when the discs & pads were replaced? I’m not sure what to do now & don’t trust the garage to sort it so tempted to replace the arms myself.
Did you bed the new brakes in?
Good job George.
Thanks mate!
Good job mate ! I've used MOOG aftermarket control arms. Same price as Febi but in my opinion better quality.
Fair enough, never tried them!
I tend to go for lemforder or TRW. TRW is OEM for e9x M cars, I believe lemforder is OEM for non M cars.
@@brodiehaward Yes, you can get Lemforder for the double price of Moog or Febi if you are planning to keep the car for more than 10 years.
Moog are very good; very good warranties too. Meyle, Moog, TRW and Lemforder I my usual go-to's, but Moog feature a lot now for me 👌🏻
@@brodiehaward Both are ZF parts. Lemförder is part of ZF.
Thankyou
👍👍👍
Welcome 👍
Fantastic video as always mate super helpful! What website do you use to find the torque specs?
Good work mate! need to check mines, in idle I feel some vibration on board and having 105k miles being a 335d perhaps it will improve. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks mate!
yep, I am about to do it on my e60 along with the tie rod ends.... lower arms are done already.
Good stuff!
Hi George, does this mean you torque it at 68N plus an extra 90 degree? am i right?
Good video, I need to do this job on my E92 (original arms at 124K) but I was also going to do the short straight control arms as well.
Yeah maybe worth doing both while you’re in there mate
@@GeorgeAusters I think so, they don't seem to wear quite as much but if they do go afterwards you have to get the wheel alignment done all over again.
@@simonh870 id do the m3 arms, they are easy to get on AUTODOC, normally around £50 a piece. Might aswell upgrade if you are replacing them.
@@brodiehaward I want to keep it standard really, I know that M3 arms improve the handling but they can also cause more tyre wear and a harsher ride. I don't buy from Autodoc, I have experienced their poor customer service.
@@simonh870 fair enough. Ive never had a bad experience with AUTODOC, so for as long as my luck lasts i intend to stick with them. They are rarely beaten on price for most items and usually I receive the bits within 8 days.
Cracking video but what's the part number for the bolts mate, I'm UK based, I've tried eurocar parts, LVW, GSF 🤷♂️ ?
The bolts come with the arms, have I linked them in the description?
Generally never knew the torque specs where on ista. Might make another good vid.
I have a bit of play in the steering. Could this be the cause of that?
Very possibly!
You'll not have any bother with Febi Bilstein parts. Probably better quality than OEM and that goes for all their parts and products.
Yep I’ve never had an issue with any of their parts personally👍🏻
Great value for money as well considering they’re good quality
Good stuff bro
Appreciate it
George, once you tighten lower arms at 68Nm , the +90º , are you using the same torque? I mean 68Nm, or something different? Thank you
Really doesn’t matter, as long as you do another 90 degrees turn
@@GeorgeAusters I'm on it, Thanks man
@@GeorgeAusters George. this mean you torque it at 68N plus an extra 90 degree? am i right?
Are the long bolt and nut one time use and must be replaced every time they are removed?
Correct👍🏻
Can you provide a link for the bolts?
Did you ever find a link for the bolts?
@@elimoeller9154 yea. Fcpeuro sells them. Put in your make and model and search control arm bolt
Hi mate. My car pulls to the right. Alignment done 3 times. New tires, tyres aligned... Would this help?
Any play in your bushes?
@@GeorgeAusters well a mechanic lifted it and shaked the wheels. Front ok only right rear a very small barely play.
Quick question is the torque spec the same for the other control arm the more straight one ? I want to change both.
Likely not!
Can fit m3 arms to give more front camber
Yeah that’s an option but then you go through front tyres quicker
@@GeorgeAusters depending on driving style, it can actually prolong tyre life. If your constantly shredding outside shoulders its well worth it.
Need to buy a torque spanner thingy, not to use but just to look at and make it click
😂
Could this solve a judder i get when suddenly braking hard? Not vibrating like warped discs, but a shock from the front end.
Yes definitely!
Hi, can I ask what made you change the control arms? Did you get steering wheel wobble when braking by any chance? Cheers
I never noticed anything to be honest, but it was an advisory on the previous MOT
Recommended this on a 2007 X5 with 110k?
Yes
Mine has like little pins around the nut how do i get it off
Tap it off with a screwdriver and hammer
@@GeorgeAusters thenk you so much bro
What impact would this have on driving if my control arms were worn? Mine doesn’t ride very nicely at all. Quite crashy! Would this fix that?
Possibly but hard to tell
Nice video. Do the arms come with fresh nuts/bolt or do you order them separartely?
The arms that I’ve listed do come complete with new nuts and bolts yes👍🏻
Why not use the M3 arms? They’re about £50 a piece on AUTODOC, very similar in price to the standard arms
Yes, I was about to ask the same thing. Anyone using M3 arms? It´s suposed to be an easy upgrade as the rubber part on M3 arms is more solid than normal E9x/E8x
Because they give you more negeetive camber which = more wear on the tyres as there is no front camber adjustement for BMWs
hi, on my 2006 e87 i have problem that front wheel has big play forward backward when i stay in front of the wheel and kick it with a leg. is this related to control arm only or can be something else ?
Why don't you upgrade the BMW M3 Control Arm Upgrade?
Because they give you more negative camber which = more wear on the tyres as there is no front camber adjustement for BMWs
@@GeorgeAusters That's only true for the control arms but not the thrust arms that the video is about. The M3 version of thrust arms are not affecting the geometry. It's just give you more stiff bushings.
Timely….
I’m replacing them on my 130 with M3 items in the spring (it’s too sodding cold at the mo 😂).
Just out if interest, how to you know which grade bolt you have?
Good stuff! The grade of bolt should be printed on the head of the bolt👍🏻
🙌🏼
Hi George! Great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Just one question, where do you get all torque specs from?
Thanks.
ISTA
Do you plan on doing the timing chain on this, based on the mileage?
Nope. Pretty confident it’s already been replaced👍🏻
George - Do you rate Febi Bilstein as a brand ? Are their parts good quality or rebranded Chinese made rubbish?
Yeah they’re decent👍🏻
Hi, thanks for the videos. That car with 100K miles , hummm, I think it needs to change the gearbox oil, the power steering oil and the differential gear oil. we want to see.
Yep have a full service video coming soon👍🏻
BMW and cheap are an impossible combination my f10 xenons cost over 700quid new per cluster, thus no choice but to attempt a rebuild lol.
Get some aftermarket ones that are fully built with awesome halo lights and they are about £750 for a bit very nice and decent quality ones
👍
👍🏻
these dont get flagged on MOT, car feels like it jiggles
These were an advisory on the previous MOT mate
I’ve posted comments twice but they disappear. This is a sort of a test…
Do you know what the comments were?
@@GeorgeAusters On your previous video I commented that I’d coded out the stop-start feature on my F30. Comment disappeared so I reposted it. Disappeared again. I wonder if UA-cam deleted it because I mentioned the software i used…
@@jonathanowen6147 Interesting! Yes I never even got to see those comments, I'm pretty sure I did block all links though because I had an issue with scammers spamming their links before
@@GeorgeAusters Just tried…it won’t let me post the word Bi**erCode
i think control arms should be torqued under load ( car on the ground)... ?
You are correct - that's why it says "tighten down in normal position" in TIS instructions. "Normal" position is when wheels are loaded, i.e. on the ground
Did you not watch the video? The car was down on the ramps when I torqued the bolts😅
bro i have a question, i got a F30 2.0 Diesel but i had a accident and i had to renew the whole left fender + light, all those control arms... but i didnt know u need to torque them when they'r on weight... i can tell u i got a little vibration on the left side and cant solve it. i bought allready 2 sets of wheels 1 was bad other one is balanced and is good. even if i drive in corners the car feels weird like its gonne brake out it only got 163hp :( since i have the car i never gone higher then 180km/h = 111mph cuz the car is healthy enough service is a must but it drives like sht. if i see in your videos how it needs to be driving then damn i bought the rong car.... ps: Love your videos, simple and easy love it. sorry for my bad english.
Check those control arms for play
@@GeorgeAusters ok hope it will do it. Thnx mate :)
@@davidb-d4vid342 what was your problem?
What brand are the lower control arms i need all 4 front for my 328i 2008
I got the ball joint part out but the other part is stripped and won’t come out how would you go about that
What is stripped?