Hi Rick... great job... I will be looking forward to seeing it finished... I made a carbide chisel recently...great fun...there's nothing as satisfying as using tools that you have made yourself... take care...All the best.....Andy
watching you do the first tap it is obvious that you are not familiar with tapping a thread. It is imperative that you back out as often as necessary. even after a half turn. And there are charts to fr correct diameter with different hardness of metals. 20:18
Good on you Rick, you made it in the end! Stainless steels are difficult to work, mild steel, as you showed, is more manageable for the home engineer. Good luck using the tool when it's completed. Best wishes.
Good one Rick, the things that went wrong may have ended up costing almost the price of the oneway tool but now 3500+ of your subscribers can confidently build that tool and avoid the pitfalls. You sir have provided a public service, well done.
you made me feel good. I was hopping you would give me the magic bullet for taping stainless steel. I have countless short 8-32 taps in an effort to tap a set screw hole in a square bar. Drilling no problem tapping not so much. I have tried the slow method with 1/4 turns fwd , 1/8 turn back. That's baloney. Nice video. Thanks Harold
100 bucks for the whole, nicely polished, completed tool, huh Rick? Sounds like a bargain! LOL! So sorry for all the issues along the way but like you said, we get to learn from your mistakes so thank you for that. As always an entertaining video, looking forward to the handle video and really looking forward to seeing you use this new tool! Phil
Ever use your drill press to at least get a tap started? Not under power, but you chuck up the tap and turn the chuck by hand as you advance it. Helps keep it nice and straight.
Hi Rick, I'm glad you got there in the end. I believe there are special taps for tapping Stainless Steel. A lot of great tips in this video Rick. Looking forward to seeing the next video and the tool being put through its paces. Take care Rick. Cheers, Huw
Thanks for watching and commenting, Huw. My video on the handle should be up today - it's all recorded, I'm just still editing it. I'll be starting on the use video today or tomorrow. I have high hopes!
Hola Rick, I'm constan drilling metal rods in the wood lathe, bout of your jaws have to work fine, just don't feed them all the way to the bottom, the second jaws that you try, it's my go to jaws for metal rods, your put your live center in the tail, just for centering and close the Chuck firm and evenly without feed the rod to the bottom of the jaws remove the tailstock center and you have a secure an run true rod. I hope that's helpful. Un abrazo y espero conserves salud en estos tiempos.
Thanks for the tips, Tonatiuh. I'll try that next time. Probably should have tried harder on this project to use the lathe for drilling, it would have centered the hole accurately.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning after watching your video, I found some others to do some research. I do hand carving mostly, and most of the Asian turners are using hooks and rings that are no sturdier than one of my hook knives or a scorp, just with a longer handle. They must use a very light touch on the lathe to not destroy those things.
Thanks, Rick.yes, I have tried some times, but it was not as good as I thought, I didn't know if I use it correctly. Do you want to upload a demo video? If so, I can learn from you,🙂🙂🙂
Looking forward to seeing part 2 and the termite in action Rick. As always your videos are always down to earth and fun to watch. But now I know I am going to want a termite tool..lol Take care, Gary
I want to try one of these. Ps: i recommend that you clamp the rod at the drill press and clamp the tap into the chuck then hand feed it while hand turning the spindle to get several threads started then finish by hand. Far fewer broken taps this way
Do you think it really was the stainless steel, Tommy? When I bought it, I thought it was about the same as mild steel, with just some chromium added to prevent rusting.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Yes Rick, I do believe it was the steel. Stainless is some pretty tough stuff and the tap material can be different too. It is difficult to find a quality tap for hardened steel at Lowes or Home Depot. I've even gotten carbide tip drills that wouldn't drill out a screw from a lawnmower. Go figure...
Can’t wait to see you using this tool I’ve been seeing a hook knife I’m some sort of knife that replaces the SKU I’m going to try and Make three or four of these tools are in two will be one they will probably Irritate me to death but I have to give it a try thank you for sharing Rick you’re a lot of fun
The first steel rod I used was stainless steel, and that was a mistake. I couldn't tap it! So then I bought a piece of mild steel (I'm not sure what the designation is), and it tapped just fine. Thanks for watching, Texas.
Rick I'm a retired electrical engineer, not a machinist, and I don't work with metal often enough to develop any real 'muscle memory'. Everything I know about metal work I learned in Junior High School metal shop almost 60 years ago, and by watching UA-cam videos. So my experience is that threading a hole for a #8 or #10 screw takes me, on average, around three taps. As you say, that means that making tools isn't always less expensive than buying them, although it is fun. That's obviously not right, and I think that if I did it more often, I would develop a better sense of how often to stop threading and back the tap out of the hole. That's the key - the tap breaks when you force it too hard, and its an acquired skill to know when to stop. So there are two takeaways here. First, the folks who do this routinely and successfully deserve a lot of respect of having developed the required skills. Second, those of us who are old enough to have had the opportunity to take various shop classes (metal, wood, print, etc - options that may not be available in schools today) in high school are really fortunate to have been exposed to things that may not have benefitted our professional careers, but that are real assets when we retire and get into DIY activities.
At 15:53, you say you want to use the tap "without screwing up." That is the correct procedure because you want the tap to "screw down" into the steel. (I apologize for that.)
Rick, I suspect most folks sharpen with a rotary tool like a Dremel. If you don't have oone yet, this gives you an excuse to add to your tool collection. My B&D model has 3 speeds with the highest 35K.
Thank you, Mike. I don't have any experience in metal work, and just kind of fumble my way through, depending a lot on UA-cam videos. I'll keep your offer in mind!
Great start Rick. Beware of termites in the shop! Two questions for you. The vise jaws, are they an aftermarket purchase, if so, where did you get them? When at your bench, what is that behind you with the tubes going to the outside door, an air exchanger? Thanks, Joe. Safe turning Rick.
Yes, I bought the vice jaws from Amazon. They're pretty nice to have. That thing behind my workbench is a portable heat pump. It works well, but was sized for my last workshop. This garage I'm in now is a little larger than it can comfortably handle. I have to give it an hour's headstart for this shop. Thanks for watching, Joseph.
I don't do any turning but it's still fun to watch. If I learned from all of my mistakes I'd be the smartest person on earth. How do you fit all those people in your shop to laugh, boo, etc (lol)? Stay safe. Bill
I've always wondered about these ring tools. In fact, in the old timy days of foot powered lathes, ring tools and hook tools were used quite a bit. I didn't know there were 'new' ones out there. Seems a bit like a 'catch-machine' to me, but let's see you use them. In theory, it should work well, but let's see...
Does look like a risky tool, doesn't it? That's what I've always thought, but I've seen some comments about it working well. So I'm holding my breath and hoping for the best. Thanks for watching, Willem.
You had the bar in the center hole of the lathe not the three Jaw Chuck. You need to progressively cut and back off on the thread tapper to clear the tool and prevent the bit jamming Rather basic I think.
I have lots of t-shirts to show off, and I have to work at it. It's actually because I only have about 45 minutes a day to work on my videos, so a simple woodturning project gets stretched over 4 or 5 or more days. Thanks for watching, Waltzer.
Well, nuts, you’re absolutely right. It was slightly larger than that the diameter of the termite bit shaft, of course, but I don’t recall what that was, and I’m won’t be back home for some weeks to go into the workshop and measure it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I assume you’re talking about the bit inside the shaft, right? I did think about using CA glue, seeing as how that’s the way the bits are held in the Ellsworth hollowing tools. But I didn’t think I could get a close enough match between the bit shaft and the hole. I suppose epoxy would have worked okay, but then I would never be able to replace the bit. Thanks for watching and commenting, Lou.
I don't buy from Wal-Mart. But I did buy the taps from Home Depot. It was a DeWalt product, and I thought it would be good quality. It probably was - but between my inexperience and the harder stainless steel rod, that poor tap didn't have a chance.
Hi Rick... great job... I will be looking forward to seeing it finished... I made a carbide chisel recently...great fun...there's nothing as satisfying as using tools that you have made yourself... take care...All the best.....Andy
Making tools is great! Thanks for watching, Andy.
Great video Rick! I love that you show us the authentic process, wrinkles and all.
Yep, I got lots of wrinkles to show! Thanks for watching, Miles.
watching you do the first tap it is obvious that you are not familiar with tapping a thread. It is imperative that you back out as often as necessary. even after a half turn. And there are charts to fr correct diameter with different hardness of metals. 20:18
I know about backing out. But I didn’t know about charts for different metal hardnesses. Thanks!
Good on you Rick, you made it in the end! Stainless steels are difficult to work, mild steel, as you showed, is more manageable for the home engineer. Good luck using the tool when it's completed. Best wishes.
I’ve learned my lesson about stainless steel! Thanks for watching, John.
Good one Rick, the things that went wrong may have ended up costing almost the price of the oneway tool but now 3500+ of your subscribers can confidently build that tool and avoid the pitfalls. You sir have provided a public service, well done.
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Torbay.
Good one Rick! 👍
Thanks, Billy!
you made me feel good. I was hopping you would give me the magic bullet for taping stainless steel. I have countless short 8-32 taps in an effort to tap a set screw hole in a square bar. Drilling no problem tapping not so much. I have tried the slow method with 1/4 turns fwd , 1/8 turn back. That's baloney. Nice video. Thanks Harold
You're right, stainless steel is not for the faint of heart - or faint of tap, I should say. Thanks for watching, Capt.
100 bucks for the whole, nicely polished, completed tool, huh Rick? Sounds like a bargain! LOL! So sorry for all the issues along the way but like you said, we get to learn from your mistakes so thank you for that. As always an entertaining video, looking forward to the handle video and really looking forward to seeing you use this new tool!
Phil
I spent close to $100, replacing tools and wood! But it was fun. Thanks for watching and commenting, Phil.
Ever use your drill press to at least get a tap started? Not under power, but you chuck up the tap and turn the chuck by hand as you advance it. Helps keep it nice and straight.
Thanks for the tip, Ben. That sounds like a REALLY good idea. I'm going to do that next time.
RickTurns good luck! It’s one of those tips I think if a little too late every time haha
You are human. Thanks for sharing the whole process.
Thanks for watching, Trurex.
Hi Rick, I'm glad you got there in the end. I believe there are special taps for tapping Stainless Steel. A lot of great tips in this video Rick. Looking forward to seeing the next video and the tool being put through its paces. Take care Rick. Cheers, Huw
Thanks for watching and commenting, Huw. My video on the handle should be up today - it's all recorded, I'm just still editing it. I'll be starting on the use video today or tomorrow. I have high hopes!
I make my own tools you can save a lot of $$$ ,thank you rick for sharing
Making tools is a lot of fun! Thanks for watching, Gwynne.
Hola Rick, I'm constan drilling metal rods in the wood lathe, bout of your jaws have to work fine, just don't feed them all the way to the bottom, the second jaws that you try, it's my go to jaws for metal rods, your put your live center in the tail, just for centering and close the Chuck firm and evenly without feed the rod to the bottom of the jaws remove the tailstock center and you have a secure an run true rod. I hope that's helpful. Un abrazo y espero conserves salud en estos tiempos.
Thanks for the tips, Tonatiuh. I'll try that next time. Probably should have tried harder on this project to use the lathe for drilling, it would have centered the hole accurately.
I've seen hook tools before, and they looked pretty slick, but this is new to me.
I just used it yesterday. It's better than I expected. Thanks for watching, Bill.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning after watching your video, I found some others to do some research. I do hand carving mostly, and most of the Asian turners are using hooks and rings that are no sturdier than one of my hook knives or a scorp, just with a longer handle. They must use a very light touch on the lathe to not destroy those things.
Nice work,👍. I have a ring tool, but few times to use,😂😂😂
Thanks for watching, Gao. Did the ring tool work okay for you? I'm guessing maybe not, since you say you only used it a few times.
Thanks, Rick.yes, I have tried some times, but it was not as good as I thought, I didn't know if I use it correctly. Do you want to upload a demo video? If so, I can learn from you,🙂🙂🙂
I love my ring tool!
That's good to hear, Carol. I hope mine will work out well. I finished it yesterday, but haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
Looking forward to seeing part 2 and the termite in action Rick. As always your videos are always down to earth and fun to watch.
But now I know I am going to want a termite tool..lol
Take care,
Gary
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Gary.
I look forward to seeing the tool in action.
Me, too. I finished it yesterday, but haven't had a chance to test it yet. Thanks for watching, Jay.
Interesting.. looking forward to seeing how well it works
Me, too. I finished it yesterday, but haven't tried it out yet - I'm stalling - I'm afraid I might be disappointed! Thanks for watching, Woody.
I've always wanted one of these. Thanks for the how-to, Rick!
Thanks for watching, Lewis. I hope this tool is going to be the answer to my hollowing prayers. : -)
Very interesting video Rick, I might have a go myself.
Shay
It was fun! Thanks for watching, BB.
Making tools is fun!. Be safe
Yep, it is fun. Well, aggravating sometimes, but definitely fun. Thanks for watching, Bobby.
I want to try one of these. Ps: i recommend that you clamp the rod at the drill press and clamp the tap into the chuck then hand feed it while hand turning the spindle to get several threads started then finish by hand. Far fewer broken taps this way
Thanks for the tip about the drill press. Sounds like an excellent way to get the tap started. I'll do that next time.
Great video Rick!. I started out life as a machinist...can't tell ya how many taps I've broken lol.
Do you think it really was the stainless steel, Tommy? When I bought it, I thought it was about the same as mild steel, with just some chromium added to prevent rusting.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Yes Rick, I do believe it was the steel. Stainless is some pretty tough stuff and the tap material can be different too. It is difficult to find a quality tap for hardened steel at Lowes or Home Depot. I've even gotten carbide tip drills that wouldn't drill out a screw from a lawnmower. Go figure...
Can’t wait to see you using this tool I’ve been seeing a hook knife I’m some sort of knife that replaces the SKU I’m going to try and Make three or four of these tools are in two will be one they will probably Irritate me to death but I have to give it a try thank you for sharing Rick you’re a lot of fun
Thanks for watching, Randy. This will be my first experience with a hook or ring tool. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
hahaha, you finally got there. I am very curious how the hollowing will go with this new tool.
Thanks so far.
I'm looking forward to trying this tool out - I finished it yesterday, but haven't used it yet. Thanks for watching and commenting, Frank.
What kind of steel is the bar stock you bought? I like this idea.
The first steel rod I used was stainless steel, and that was a mistake. I couldn't tap it! So then I bought a piece of mild steel (I'm not sure what the designation is), and it tapped just fine. Thanks for watching, Texas.
Rick you should be using a taper tap
That tap was tapered. I didn't have any problems when I switched to a milder steel bar. Thanks for watching, Steve.
Rick
I'm a retired electrical engineer, not a machinist, and I don't work with metal often enough to develop any real 'muscle memory'. Everything I know about metal work I learned in Junior High School metal shop almost 60 years ago, and by watching UA-cam videos. So my experience is that threading a hole for a #8 or #10 screw takes me, on average, around three taps. As you say, that means that making tools isn't always less expensive than buying them, although it is fun. That's obviously not right, and I think that if I did it more often, I would develop a better sense of how often to stop threading and back the tap out of the hole. That's the key - the tap breaks when you force it too hard, and its an acquired skill to know when to stop.
So there are two takeaways here. First, the folks who do this routinely and successfully deserve a lot of respect of having developed the required skills. Second, those of us who are old enough to have had the opportunity to take various shop classes (metal, wood, print, etc - options that may not be available in schools today) in high school are really fortunate to have been exposed to things that may not have benefitted our professional careers, but that are real assets when we retire and get into DIY activities.
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Louie. There was a shop class in my high school, and I've regretted many times not taking it.
Looking forward to the upcoming videos for this tool!! Curious to what your going to make the handle out of =)
The handle video will be published today if I'm lucky. The video is all recorded, but I'm still editing it. Thanks for watching, Josh.
At 15:53, you say you want to use the tap "without screwing up." That is the correct procedure because you want the tap to "screw down" into the steel.
(I apologize for that.)
LOL! I wish I had thought of that - I would have used it in my video.
Rick, I suspect most folks sharpen with a rotary tool like a Dremel. If you don't have oone yet, this gives you an excuse to add to your tool collection. My B&D model has 3 speeds with the highest 35K.
Good idea, Mike, thanks! I do have a rotary tool with high rpm, I'll try it out.
I would be glad to offer help with metal working if you would like it in the future.
Thank you, Mike. I don't have any experience in metal work, and just kind of fumble my way through, depending a lot on UA-cam videos. I'll keep your offer in mind!
I was always taught 1/4 turn, 1/8th back when tapping
I was never taught! Probably why I break so many taps. :-) Thanks for watching, David.
Great start Rick. Beware of termites in the shop! Two questions for you. The vise jaws, are they an aftermarket purchase, if so, where did you get them? When at your bench, what is that behind you with the tubes going to the outside door, an air exchanger? Thanks, Joe. Safe turning Rick.
Yes, I bought the vice jaws from Amazon. They're pretty nice to have. That thing behind my workbench is a portable heat pump. It works well, but was sized for my last workshop. This garage I'm in now is a little larger than it can comfortably handle. I have to give it an hour's headstart for this shop. Thanks for watching, Joseph.
I don't do any turning but it's still fun to watch. If I learned from all of my mistakes I'd be the smartest person on earth. How do you fit all those people in your shop to laugh, boo, etc (lol)? Stay safe.
Bill
LOL! Thanks for watching and commenting, Bill.
I've always wondered about these ring tools. In fact, in the old timy days of foot powered lathes, ring tools and hook tools were used quite a bit. I didn't know there were 'new' ones out there. Seems a bit like a 'catch-machine' to me, but let's see you use them. In theory, it should work well, but let's see...
Does look like a risky tool, doesn't it? That's what I've always thought, but I've seen some comments about it working well. So I'm holding my breath and hoping for the best. Thanks for watching, Willem.
Stainless is actually softer and it clogs up easily. Probably why the tap kept getting stuck and broke
Thanks for the tip, Mark. I won't be using stainless steel again, at least for work that I need to tap!
Third time is the charm.
Thank goodness it wasn't "4th time or 5th time or 6th time....". Thanks for watching, Harry.
cool
Thank you, Manic.
You had the bar in the center hole of the lathe not the three Jaw Chuck. You need to progressively cut and back off on the thread tapper to clear the tool and prevent the bit jamming Rather basic I think.
I swear you change Tee shirts on every frame Rick. lol
I have lots of t-shirts to show off, and I have to work at it. It's actually because I only have about 45 minutes a day to work on my videos, so a simple woodturning project gets stretched over 4 or 5 or more days. Thanks for watching, Waltzer.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Takes me 45 minutes ta wiggle my wheelchair through my shop now Rick. lol
google ... how to drill and tap a piece of round stock. It's a lot easier than you think.
I have indeed done that. I think it was the stainless steel that did me in this time. Thanks for watching and commenting, Shorty.
NEWS FLASH did you check the hardness of the steel your drill bits were squealing doesnt that tell you something
No, it didn't tell me anything. I've rarely done any drilling in metal. Thanks for the tip, MrDjagg.
in all your talking you never did say what size hole you drilled
Well, nuts, you’re absolutely right. It was slightly larger than that the diameter of the termite bit shaft, of course, but I don’t recall what that was, and I’m won’t be back home for some weeks to go into the workshop and measure it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I would have just glue it
I assume you’re talking about the bit inside the shaft, right? I did think about using CA glue, seeing as how that’s the way the bits are held in the Ellsworth hollowing tools. But I didn’t think I could get a close enough match between the bit shaft and the hole. I suppose epoxy would have worked okay, but then I would never be able to replace the bit. Thanks for watching and commenting, Lou.
So now your up to 60.00$
Probably more than that, Lou. I might have saved money by buying the whole tool. But making it was fun (frustrating occasionally, but fun).
Don’t buy tools from Wal-Mart
I don't buy from Wal-Mart. But I did buy the taps from Home Depot. It was a DeWalt product, and I thought it would be good quality. It probably was - but between my inexperience and the harder stainless steel rod, that poor tap didn't have a chance.