Good day, folks, my policy is: you buy it - you own it. As long as you are not profiteering from your recasts, you're free to do with your purchases as you please. For the amount of money I had sunk into chemicals and learning from my many mistakes, I could have outfitted myself with at least 2 more armies - but this was is more fun and I still have to buy plenty of originals to make these experiments happen.
@@Caddy666 my recent idea is to use toothpicks due to their fine points. standard 1.75mm Filament is quite thick so unless I can melt it to get a finer point, it's gonna be the same sort of result as hot glue. On that note, the hot glue blobs on the broadside were too thick and require quite a bit of cleanup when assembling the mini, hence why I was thinking toothpicks.
I imagine it might be more secure, after applying the hot glue to the mold, to further seal it with some kind of caulking. Basically, treat the mold as a bathroom fixture you need to get water tight. Do all of this and have it harden BEFORE pouring.
Do you think using two car tie downs (ones with smallest ratchets) on the mold box would help with the pressure and give mold more stability while drying? I feel like once the box is created you could slim the side panels down, but leave enough room for glue, then gently tighten the ratchets until you had desired pressure and it might help with leaks as long as it's not too tight. Another great video and I totally agree; as long as you aren't reproducing for nefarious reasons, your get rich quick scheme then it shouldn't be a problem, I recently purchased a bunch of oop Cities of Death terrain because it's all tiles and building is limitless and I wanna learn to reproduce then to build epic tables on my stay at home dad wages.
That's exactly what I should have done. Perhaps not car tie downs but I should have set up some clamps with very light pressure around the middle of the mold just to keep it from expanding sideways. I'm working on the 2nd part where the aftermath, demolding and liquid plastic pour is done. On the side note - the one facebook group I was under impression welcomed this sort of content banned me lol.
For support walls. I wounder how a wire mesh would work, similar to concert? it would allow the silicone to flow around and through. but give some flex if needed.
So the whole point of the reinforcement is to keep the mold more structurally firm. Less flappy. And in hindsight... ice-cream sticks... Jesus.. what was I thinking?. I realized later that I could have actually just printed a perforated solid plastic wall on a 3D printer. Wire mesh might be still too bendable / rigid. I mean I've been making half molds even without any wire mesh in the first place. I might just try that next.
Honestly I think opposite. The sprues already have most of the vents needed and just needs a bit more. When I cut out the parts to make a two part mold, I need to re-create all the vents that were there from the sprue, plus add any additional ones.
@@RebelWorkshop I suppose but with a two piece mold if you're throwing a lot of bad casts on a part you can make adjustments to it later. You also control the parting line very precisely. It does take a lot longer and I admit for a lot of cases, it's overkill and too much work.
Absolutely no experience in recasting, however do have years in the trades. Two things... 1- I'm pretty sure your popsicle stick reinforcements should have some holes drilled through them so the become part of the mold, we use rebar and mesh in concrete so that the medium engulfs the reinforcements and everything becomes one cohesive unit. (Silicone may be completely different but I don't know) 2- glue gun sticks are cheap af, use way more than you think you need, an extra $2 (if that) to save the aggravation, time and stress of the emergency clamping exercise. Just sayin P.S- I think you'll find if you cut your foam board more carefully with a straight edge guiding your blade, you'll have cleaner joints. Another inexperienced noob suggestion... Once you are done constructing the mould box, cut the sides even with the front and back, then wrap in masking tape, then use those little scrap sheets of wood (which will help spread out the pressure of clamps) and a few clamps) do those things next time and I bet any money it improves the outcome of your mould
Holy shit my dude. I've been watching hobby videos for like a decade and your personality/sense of humor is cracking me up. So glad I watched this whole video. I'll have to watch part 2 tomorrow. Also I have tried to get into recasting a few times (with garbage results) and watching you struggle as well makes me feel strangely better, like I can give it another go.
I don't know if it's just me but It's so exhilarating so see the whole problem solving process when the big leak happened It helps teach us what we can do when these problems do eventually happen
I would like to clarify to everyone that this video was recorded chronologically in the same order you watch it, which means 0:47 is a ONE HELL OF A FORESHADOWING COINCIDENCE.
I was about to go into a rage, I thought he spray painted the sprue. I've seen people do that and it makes me so angry lol Why would you do something so pointlessly stupid.
11:08. I know what I will be doing. *Edit Hold up! You must be in the Water Caste. That was a subtle reference to the greater good. BUT WAIT! You are building, tinkering, and perfecting your craft. Surely you must be of the Earth Caste. Does that mean you are a member of the- ... ... ... ... ...Mud Caste? Enough mind games! (ง>෴>)ง *Edit's Edit Gosh dang it. You are in the Re Caste. (ꗞ‸ꗞ)
I use a drill to mix You don't even need a mixing tip you can still use the tongue depressor or styrene rod and just clamp the drill down on the end of it and go
I think I'd use UHU glue in place of the glue gun for ventilation, granted you'd have to wait a bit longer for it to dry, I just think you'd have better control.
Dude... your Pouring technique leaves a lot to be desired... The purpose of pouring from one side is to let it gradually fill in to reduce the air bubbles but you also want to pour it from as high as you can so that you can get as thin of a stream as possible thereby also reducing the amount of air you get in your mold all of which becomes excruciatingly more important if you don't have a vacuum chamber. On this particular mode if I was you I would have poured it right on top of that support rather than in between the support and the sprue and the network it could have poured down both sides of the support and then gradually filled in but yeah if you let the rubber hit the plastic 1st port right on the piece And it blankets the palastic you're gonna be guaranteed to have some air bubbles In that area as well as in a lot of spots where you probably shouldn't have gotten any, Because when the silicone just lands on the plastic like that it's like throwing a net over something it just catches the air and holds it right there in that spot.
If you're talking about the inner walls, in part 2 of this, I actually did another mold without any reinforcement and it appeared to have produced just as fine of a result so maybe I tried to solve a problem that wasn't there.
What a mess... You should really think about doing something else than anything that requires a right and a left hand instead of two feet at the end of your arms.
Was looking up how to do some small scale recasting with "blue stuff" and stumbled upon this video. That leakage was intense! First impression was that you've got a great personality, also like the setup you've got. While all your work adds to how long it takes to make a video as you said, I think the result was a video well worth the watch!
Dude the hot glue gun for air vents....... you.. you.. F**KING GENIUS!! I cannot believe I never thought of that I have been tediously in painstakingly Measuring cutting out and gluing into place little pieces of styrene rod.... The pain/struggle has been real God-bless you you have given me my freedom LMAO
So the funny thing is that having tried hot glue a number of times, I'm actually going to experiment with something resembling what you were doing but with toothpicks. Mainly because toothpicks have a very fine tip which would leave a very small mark on the model. The one thing I would complain about the hot glue is that it's tricky to control the thickness of the vent with hot glue. In some cases. If I overestimate I end up with the giant blob that needs to be snipped post cure. I'm going to try and see how hot glowing tips of toothpicks to the sprue, contacting the part would fare as a vent next time I try this. Hey, glad I gave the idea.
Once you've build your mould box, cut down the end pieces flush with the sides so you can use rubber bands to secure it and ensure a tight fit while everything glues up. If you've got old moulds to dispose of, cut them up and use them as filler in a new mould which will then let you build the mould box a lot bigger - big enough to get some caulk or silicone sealant on the corners too for maximum leak-proofing.
It's actually what I started with but the cleanup is nightmare. Silicone gets wasted seeping in between the bricks. The modular right angle shaped wall slices have been far superiors in quickly setting up various sizes box sets and the cleanup is instant.
Indeed. To be fair, with something like this, it does not make sense for me to be "keeping the secrets" for the process one anyway. I'm not in the business of selling recasts, so it's not like there's any competition to be had in the first place. I am much more interested in making videos so if anything the recasting content market is an untapped goldmine waiting to be claimed by anyone willing to share and put in the time.
@@RebelWorkshop yeah it doesn’t make sense rationally in the age of 3D printing. It’s a traditional part of the war gaming hobby tho. I knew an old guy who recast a whole napoleonic army in lead. So far I’ve only cast parts out of miliput, hot glue and plaster with oyumaru and silicone caulk. Looking to be more ambitious now
It's a trade. I would argue that including the sprue saves time as it provides existing structure and air vents. It just needs a little bit extra air flow with a few additional vents to work fully. It does cost more plastic but I don't call it waste since my argument is that it serves a purpose. Plus the numbers on the sprue for parts help to assemble.
Thanks for the kind words. I just came up with it when I was watching your video. I wanted to learn how to recast miniatures myself, and I took the idea from when I used to make molds of halo armor, I would build the boxes put of plexiglass, and use them as a hard frame around the silicone to keep it rigid.
I have used 3D printed boards. They're neat but the print layers can be pealed off by the silicone rubber when demolding. One trick I found on Hackaday is to wrap the 3F print in Scotch Tape. It has a perfectly smooth surface for the task, which will prevent silicone from sticking to the crevices of the 3D printed walls.
If someone out there has 3D modelled an extremely accurate stl then yeah, go for it. I've done a bunch of 3D prints before I wanted to experiment with getting something closer to real thing and that's only possible with recasting. For now that is. Who knows what new tech will come. I even tried 3D scanning models but even the new fangled 0.01mm scanners that every promo trailer brags about produces something that needs massive overhauls. Mold making and casting, I find to be more interesting to take part in, hence why I do it.
As a mould structure replacement, shims would probably do the trick and they'd be far, far cheaper than popsicle sticks. Might even be able to get them free at some places.
Yep, Shima could work, albeit after this experiment is like to minimize the amount of time consuming happiness so I think a 3d printed mesh or perforated plate will be more suitable.
I may attempt something like this. In general I like to buy my minis from GW, but for certain units I would really like to have multiples without having to re-purchase the set. They are pretty expensive I've as you know.
Oh I remember back in 2015 when I first got into 40k... that was affordable... and I'm sure for those who got started in the 90s - the 2015 prices were absurd already lol.
Speaking of minimizing amount of rubber for the mold those reinforcements are fantastic always used chunkies to Fill it out but this sir's practical purpose and takes up way more room I would say putting those supports in cut the amount of rubber you have to pour by half
Someone else had also recommended to use a piece of plexiglass or acrylic with holes cut out in them. The holes would provide sturdier intertwined contact with the rubber so that it doesn't just peel off When you pull away the robber. And the bonus that it would take an immensely less amount of time finagling with hot gluing ice cream sticks together. I don't know what I was thinking but I guess someone had to do the dumb thing at least once for all of us to learn what not to do. Lol
I have kept every sprue since starting to buy 40k models and I'd really like an additional set of some infantry that I'll be picking up here shortly. It would be nice to convert my old plastic scrap into 10 more bodies
Funny you mentioned it. There's a video by Miniature Hobbyist ua-cam.com/video/1O-MSfI73SY/v-deo.html He's done exactly what you are talking about. Reusing old plastic to cast new objects. Not miniatures unfortunately but I'm sure if you have a mold, you can apply the principle.
Maybe. There's a lot of paces where bubbles tend to get trapped, hence why the extra step of placing vents. It's also worth noting that GW uses injection molding, where bubbles get dealt with a different way under high pressures. In this case, it's simple gravity fed liquid plastic fill, so the rules for dealing with bubbles are different.
I actually did get myself a small high frequency orbital vibration table used in dental labs. It shakes my whole damn desk, Great massager. Haven't used it seriously enough to get all the bubbles out.
@@RebelWorkshop In the lab we kept that kind of device on a solid surface mounted to the floor. So totally understand the vibration would be a bit un-nerving lol
@@connectingcomics Indeed, Need a log, an anvil or a cement block for a table to make it work. My main issue has really been bubbles under the crevices that form air pockets
So the best way I've made molds from sprues is horizontally, not vertically. This guarantees that the two flat surfaces of the mold that are most critical are perfectly flat and parallel. I suspend the sprue in the mold cavity with clay pillars and then after the silicone is set I remove them and fill em in. Its more like clay pyramids but you get the idea 🙂 Also Ive found that a vacuum chamber to de-bubble the silicone before I pour it (and pouring in one corner only and letting it fill slowly) is the best way to make perfect, dense, bubble free molds. I then use a compression chamber (paint gun pressure pot or sometimes called a paint tank) to make the plastic sprues. I pour the plastic into the mold and then immediately place the whole thing in the compression and have it at 60PSI this makes any bubbles that are in the plastic shrink until they dissolve and I'm left with a perfect bubble free recast!
Yep, that's another valid approach. I try not to over complicate things with extra equipment even though I do have those vacuum chambers and pressure pots
You should have something plywood or more ideally a metal plate on both sides of the mold and then clamp that in the 4 corners to apply a more even pressure.
@@MrDatBlock Oh, lmao, They themselves referenced it from: ua-cam.com/video/Ln2Xq8fCNI8/v-deo.html&pp=ygUjbmlnaHQgdGltZSBkYXkgdGltZSB0YWxraW5nIGFuaW1hbHM%3D&ab_channel=smon
I have an interesting idea. Try using a large syringe to fill the mold from the bottom up. Keep it oriented as you have it now, but add a short length of tubing sticking out the bottom. Dump the casting resin into a large syringe, put the plunger in, and force the resin into the mold from the bottom. This way as it pushes up through the mold, under pressure from the syringe, it will force all the air out the top. As long as you have vents to ensure no undercuts trap bubbles, this should result in a completely bubble free casting.
Right right. I was thinking more about using transparent resin so you can see the faults and fill them in with a needle and syringe before popping it open
Just got my ass kicked by my recent molding, an utter failure, I don't think I will be doing the whole sprue thing, it just too easy to prone to error, like sometimes the parts arrangement would shoot out from the sprue to the left side for example, I for once have cut the part wrong, beside is impossible to not make mistakes under these circumstances as some part would stick out more than the other, so I really have to watch out where I make the cut... and the bubbles, man, the vertical method generates significantly more bubbles on sensitive area of the model... unless I have a vacuum chamber... so I might get back to molding with silicon in the future, but with traditional two parts molds, to be honest, I am sticking hard to 3d printing for now, might get a 3d scanner though...
Hehehe, that sounds familiar. I've been and still am getting my ass wooped by recasts but having tried 3D printing, the one bottleneck is that someone has to actually sink in the time to make the 3D models available. Plus this mold making and recasting process just feels more fascinating than watching a printer go BRRRR. I actually got a 3D scanner explicitly for the purpose of scanning a model and 3F printing it, and let me tell you... it sucks major donkey balls. I have the Revo Pop 2. It only makes an approximation of a model but all the important detail is lost. The new Revo pop blue laser seems a bit more promising but from the demos they posted it still doesn't look like anything you can just scan and 3D print right away. What I can see people use these lasers for is creating proportion reference models for their 3D modelled recreations. So they still make the model from scratch in 3D but they use these 3D scanned model as reference to make sure their own bits are all in their appropriate place. In my case, I'm hellbent on figuring out the recasting process as it seems to me the fastest way of getting the most true to original recreations. The 3D modeler's gonna have to be a one talented SOB and perhaps make use of a caliper and 3D scans as reffs to get a true to original model recreation. I got a new idea of how I might be able to make a bubble free cast. Stay Tuned.
I'm currently doing a test to see if my idea for a recasting trick is going to pan out and I just recalled the very reason why I orient my molds vertically instead of horizontaly. You see with horizontally oriented molds , when you're making the actual mold, thousands upon thousands of bubbles, get trapped underneath the parts and those bubbles end up being cured into your mold so there's absolutely zero you can do about those. Not even a vacuum chamber can help you because those bubbles are trapped underneath the plastic sprues. And this is the reason why I make molds vertically because the surface area of a vertical mold is hundreds of times less than that of a horizontally oriented mold. So you end up with exponentially fewer if any bubbles getting trapped underneath the sprue bits. However, in this style of mold, most of the bubbles then form when you are pouring the liquid plastic and doing to recast the part. But those bobbles you can do something about with enough experimentation and creative thinking. Whereas the bubbles that were cured into your mold are there for good and I would usually consider those molds to be a write-off.
Lmao. If Games Workshop paid me, they'd do it in Melee Weapons for Tau units. Also tf you mean no success shown? I'd say that's a pretty good yield despite the janky experiment.
I'm not sure why you are doing videos of recasting. As it's one of the crappiest thing a gamer/modeller can do. It's causing the death of many companies and small shops. What makes your recasting any different?.
Just to make it clear, I am against re-selling recasts, but I am a firm proponent of "you buy it, you own it, you do whatever you want with it" approach. As long as you're not selling what the official stores sell. I find the process fun, therapeutic and generally fascinating from a technical standpoint. I don't sell these recasts as they're solely for my own enjoyment, so miniature shops aren't losing any money when there's no transaction. I can be doing the same videos with a custom 3D printed model as well so at this point it doesn't matter. The great thing about recasting is that they are very obviously inferior to the originals. So if someone wants best quality (excluding finecast) then they can put their well earned money into the originals. I for one got into recasts because one of the models I really wanted was out of stock for a year. So I tracked down an unopened original and decided if they don't want to provide stock, I'll make my own stock.
@@RebelWorkshop fair answer and detailed. I'm a miniature sculptor. And I've seen too many friends who sculpt etc suffering due to recasters is all. It's a bit like a red rag to a bull if you get me.
@@martinlong802 Oh absolutely. I get you completely. I imagine recasters who profit from copies use less janky setups than a chubby basement dude with a tub of silicone and hot glue gun. I've seen some mad commercial hardware that costing upwards to 5 to 10K made explicitly for recasting.
▶24:24 = ICE🍧CREAM~STICK🥢REPLACEMENT.....🤔.....I have the Most Obvious ANSWER to this Question; But 1st I want to see* how many of *_You in the Comments_* have come up w/ the same Answer I have in mind; *⬇COMMENT Below⬇* (* *HINT:* It _Rhymes_ w/ *_"GLUE)"_*
I used to and I've seen others use lego as well. I think it can work for the base but for the side walls, my lego walls used to leak like mad. Might be something to do with me using really cheap lego knockoffs so at the price of real lego bricks, I'd rather just use project board or even 3D print some modular walls (which is what I did in my latest video)
![Recasting a Tau Broadside [part 2]: Opening the Mold and Casting w Liquid Plastic [Warhammer 40k]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xwtubylxBnM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Recasting a Tau Broadside [part 2]: Opening the Mold and Casting w Liquid Plastic [Warhammer 40k]](/img/tr.png)
Good day, folks, my policy is: you buy it - you own it. As long as you are not profiteering from your recasts, you're free to do with your purchases as you please. For the amount of money I had sunk into chemicals and learning from my many mistakes, I could have outfitted myself with at least 2 more armies - but this was is more fun and I still have to buy plenty of originals to make these experiments happen.
Your god damn right! Let the haters hate brother
instead if spending hours gluing, have you tries buying a roll of abs filament and just cutting lengths and poly cementing them more accurately?
@@Caddy666 my recent idea is to use toothpicks due to their fine points. standard 1.75mm Filament is quite thick so unless I can melt it to get a finer point, it's gonna be the same sort of result as hot glue.
On that note, the hot glue blobs on the broadside were too thick and require quite a bit of cleanup when assembling the mini, hence why I was thinking toothpicks.
with those eyeglasses you look like a mad scientist, love it
I imagine it might be more secure, after applying the hot glue to the mold, to further seal it with some kind of caulking. Basically, treat the mold as a bathroom fixture you need to get water tight. Do all of this and have it harden BEFORE pouring.
Exactly what I was thinking, silicone caulking is water tight and flexible, whereas hot glue is rigid and prone to cracking and separation.
I'd definitely try a 3d pen for your vents,, they are much more accurate and you'd have it done in half the time.
Does the filament from a 3D pen stick well to the sprue?
I learned plenty here. I'm completely new so I will be starting with far simpler projects, and work my way up to this.
Kinda old, but you could make the mold and put it in a pressure cooker to get the bubbles out
Do you think using two car tie downs (ones with smallest ratchets) on the mold box would help with the pressure and give mold more stability while drying? I feel like once the box is created you could slim the side panels down, but leave enough room for glue, then gently tighten the ratchets until you had desired pressure and it might help with leaks as long as it's not too tight. Another great video and I totally agree; as long as you aren't reproducing for nefarious reasons, your get rich quick scheme then it shouldn't be a problem, I recently purchased a bunch of oop Cities of Death terrain because it's all tiles and building is limitless and I wanna learn to reproduce then to build epic tables on my stay at home dad wages.
That's exactly what I should have done. Perhaps not car tie downs but I should have set up some clamps with very light pressure around the middle of the mold just to keep it from expanding sideways. I'm working on the 2nd part where the aftermath, demolding and liquid plastic pour is done. On the side note - the one facebook group I was under impression welcomed this sort of content banned me lol.
For support walls. I wounder how a wire mesh would work, similar to concert? it would allow the silicone to flow around and through. but give some flex if needed.
So the whole point of the reinforcement is to keep the mold more structurally firm. Less flappy. And in hindsight... ice-cream sticks... Jesus.. what was I thinking?. I realized later that I could have actually just printed a perforated solid plastic wall on a 3D printer.
Wire mesh might be still too bendable / rigid. I mean I've been making half molds even without any wire mesh in the first place. I might just try that next.
Found my doppelgänger subbed
Source on those sunglasses?
Ebay... bout 12 years ago
it's so much easier to cut vents in a mold after you make your mold. just make a 2 piece mold.
Honestly I think opposite. The sprues already have most of the vents needed and just needs a bit more. When I cut out the parts to make a two part mold, I need to re-create all the vents that were there from the sprue, plus add any additional ones.
@@RebelWorkshop I suppose but with a two piece mold if you're throwing a lot of bad casts on a part you can make adjustments to it later. You also control the parting line very precisely. It does take a lot longer and I admit for a lot of cases, it's overkill and too much work.
Absolutely no experience in recasting, however do have years in the trades. Two things... 1- I'm pretty sure your popsicle stick reinforcements should have some holes drilled through them so the become part of the mold, we use rebar and mesh in concrete so that the medium engulfs the reinforcements and everything becomes one cohesive unit. (Silicone may be completely different but I don't know) 2- glue gun sticks are cheap af, use way more than you think you need, an extra $2 (if that) to save the aggravation, time and stress of the emergency clamping exercise. Just sayin
P.S- I think you'll find if you cut your foam board more carefully with a straight edge guiding your blade, you'll have cleaner joints. Another inexperienced noob suggestion... Once you are done constructing the mould box, cut the sides even with the front and back, then wrap in masking tape, then use those little scrap sheets of wood (which will help spread out the pressure of clamps) and a few clamps) do those things next time and I bet any money it improves the outcome of your mould
Try hard molding like you do in TV and cinema
That may not go so well for plastic minis. General rule of thumb, Soft molds for hard subjects and hard molds for soft subjects.
Holy shit my dude. I've been watching hobby videos for like a decade and your personality/sense of humor is cracking me up. So glad I watched this whole video. I'll have to watch part 2 tomorrow.
Also I have tried to get into recasting a few times (with garbage results) and watching you struggle as well makes me feel strangely better, like I can give it another go.
At least I noticed that the tendency of the results if on an improving slope. A little bit but it's definitely there.
I don't know if it's just me but
It's so exhilarating so see the whole problem solving process when the big leak happened
It helps teach us what we can do when these problems do eventually happen
Yea it was a one heck of a sketchy thing.
I would like to clarify to everyone that this video was recorded chronologically in the same order you watch it, which means 0:47 is a ONE HELL OF A FORESHADOWING COINCIDENCE.
not even here for Warhammer , just for the recasting bit. But surprised about your fun personality and ease of presenting. part 2 is on the list!
I was about to go into a rage, I thought he spray painted the sprue. I've seen people do that and it makes me so angry lol Why would you do something so pointlessly stupid.
Haha, just mold release, to be honest I don't know what's worse, spray-paint or bonded silicone...
11:08. I know what I will be doing.
*Edit
Hold up! You must be in the Water Caste. That was a subtle reference to the greater good.
BUT WAIT!
You are building, tinkering, and perfecting your craft. Surely you must be of the Earth Caste.
Does that mean you are a member of the-
...
...
...
...
...Mud Caste?
Enough mind games! (ง>෴>)ง
*Edit's Edit
Gosh dang it. You are in the Re Caste. (ꗞ‸ꗞ)
Lol I'm an imposter
I use a drill to mix You don't even need a mixing tip you can still use the tongue depressor or styrene rod and just clamp the drill down on the end of it and go
I think I'd use UHU glue in place of the glue gun for ventilation, granted you'd have to wait a bit longer for it to dry, I just think you'd have better control.
omg guy your are a awesome funny guy ^^ i like how your handel al the stuff und fix your problems^^
Dude... your Pouring technique leaves a lot to be desired... The purpose of pouring from one side is to let it gradually fill in to reduce the air bubbles but you also want to pour it from as high as you can so that you can get as thin of a stream as possible thereby also reducing the amount of air you get in your mold all of which becomes excruciatingly more important if you don't have a vacuum chamber.
On this particular mode if I was you I would have poured it right on top of that support rather than in between the support and the sprue and the network it could have poured down both sides of the support and then gradually filled in but yeah if you let the rubber hit the plastic 1st port right on the piece And it blankets the palastic you're gonna be guaranteed to have some air bubbles In that area as well as in a lot of spots where you probably shouldn't have gotten any, Because when the silicone just lands on the plastic like that it's like throwing a net over something it just catches the air and holds it right there in that spot.
Make the walls from Lego bricks. Better than wooden sticks I should think?
If you're talking about the inner walls, in part 2 of this, I actually did another mold without any reinforcement and it appeared to have produced just as fine of a result so maybe I tried to solve a problem that wasn't there.
What a mess... You should really think about doing something else than anything that requires a right and a left hand instead of two feet at the end of your arms.
Was looking up how to do some small scale recasting with "blue stuff" and stumbled upon this video. That leakage was intense! First impression was that you've got a great personality, also like the setup you've got. While all your work adds to how long it takes to make a video as you said, I think the result was a video well worth the watch!
Ngl, the videos are more worth than the recasts lol
Dude the hot glue gun for air vents....... you.. you.. F**KING GENIUS!! I cannot believe I never thought of that I have been tediously in painstakingly Measuring cutting out and gluing into place little pieces of styrene rod.... The pain/struggle has been real God-bless you you have given me my freedom LMAO
So the funny thing is that having tried hot glue a number of times, I'm actually going to experiment with something resembling what you were doing but with toothpicks. Mainly because toothpicks have a very fine tip which would leave a very small mark on the model. The one thing I would complain about the hot glue is that it's tricky to control the thickness of the vent with hot glue. In some cases. If I overestimate I end up with the giant blob that needs to be snipped post cure. I'm going to try and see how hot glowing tips of toothpicks to the sprue, contacting the part would fare as a vent next time I try this.
Hey, glad I gave the idea.
Once you've build your mould box, cut down the end pieces flush with the sides so you can use rubber bands to secure it and ensure a tight fit while everything glues up.
If you've got old moulds to dispose of, cut them up and use them as filler in a new mould which will then let you build the mould box a lot bigger - big enough to get some caulk or silicone sealant on the corners too for maximum leak-proofing.
Loved the video...Except the music. Your narration is plenty.
Damm this makes me think that I don't have enough silicone to make molds.
Try using lego bricks yo build your frame with airdry clay around the base. The youtuber crafsman has some great videos about silicon recasting.
It's actually what I started with but the cleanup is nightmare. Silicone gets wasted seeping in between the bricks. The modular right angle shaped wall slices have been far superiors in quickly setting up various sizes box sets and the cleanup is instant.
watch that "Robert Tolone" guy here on youtube for more tips on making molds, casting, materials, etc
Will do, appreciate the tips.
Incredible video. You’re very generous revealing the secrets of this art.
Indeed. To be fair, with something like this, it does not make sense for me to be "keeping the secrets" for the process one anyway. I'm not in the business of selling recasts, so it's not like there's any competition to be had in the first place. I am much more interested in making videos so if anything the recasting content market is an untapped goldmine waiting to be claimed by anyone willing to share and put in the time.
I also just realized you're looking at a video from last year. You'll never believe what I released today lol.
@@RebelWorkshop yeah it doesn’t make sense rationally in the age of 3D printing. It’s a traditional part of the war gaming hobby tho. I knew an old guy who recast a whole napoleonic army in lead. So far I’ve only cast parts out of miliput, hot glue and plaster with oyumaru and silicone caulk. Looking to be more ambitious now
There is a youtuber named Robert Tolone that I think would help with your research
oh nice. Thank you. Will check him out.
Could you use a suringe to draw out the air or to push the reasin into the mold like a fishing bait
Hypothetically yes. Practically however... Hmmm
Interesting series but dont you think you wasted time ramaking the sprue layout?
It's a trade. I would argue that including the sprue saves time as it provides existing structure and air vents. It just needs a little bit extra air flow with a few additional vents to work fully. It does cost more plastic but I don't call it waste since my argument is that it serves a purpose. Plus the numbers on the sprue for parts help to assemble.
my man
I’d suggest pegboard for the re enforcement.
Another great suggestion. I reckon it's something I can 3D print myself too if anything.
New to the channel. Instantly subscribed. I loved the music. Greetings from Cali 🤙🏾
Plexiglass instead of popsicle sticks, just drill small holes in the plexiglass for the silicone
OH... my god.... you're an absolute god damn GENIOUS! Holy crap how have I not thought of this?
Absolutely nuts.
Thanks for the kind words. I just came up with it when I was watching your video. I wanted to learn how to recast miniatures myself, and I took the idea from when I used to make molds of halo armor, I would build the boxes put of plexiglass, and use them as a hard frame around the silicone to keep it rigid.
Wire mesh I think would work well and the mold would work through it. Great video man! 🤙
acrylic board?? 3d printed board??
I have used 3D printed boards. They're neat but the print layers can be pealed off by the silicone rubber when demolding. One trick I found on Hackaday is to wrap the 3F print in Scotch Tape. It has a perfectly smooth surface for the task, which will prevent silicone from sticking to the crevices of the 3D printed walls.
Hot glue loves to re-melt hot glue, great video, love the presentation and the as it happens approach.
Wow, that was so much MORE work (and expenses?) than simply 3D printing said-Broadside.
Pretty much convinced me never to attempt recasting.
If someone out there has 3D modelled an extremely accurate stl then yeah, go for it. I've done a bunch of 3D prints before I wanted to experiment with getting something closer to real thing and that's only possible with recasting. For now that is. Who knows what new tech will come. I even tried 3D scanning models but even the new fangled 0.01mm scanners that every promo trailer brags about produces something that needs massive overhauls.
Mold making and casting, I find to be more interesting to take part in, hence why I do it.
As a mould structure replacement, shims would probably do the trick and they'd be far, far cheaper than popsicle sticks. Might even be able to get them free at some places.
Yep, Shima could work, albeit after this experiment is like to minimize the amount of time consuming happiness so I think a 3d printed mesh or perforated plate will be more suitable.
I may attempt something like this. In general I like to buy my minis from GW, but for certain units I would really like to have multiples without having to re-purchase the set. They are pretty expensive I've as you know.
Oh I remember back in 2015 when I first got into 40k... that was affordable... and I'm sure for those who got started in the 90s - the 2015 prices were absurd already lol.
Speaking of minimizing amount of rubber for the mold those reinforcements are fantastic always used chunkies to Fill it out but this sir's practical purpose and takes up way more room I would say putting those supports in cut the amount of rubber you have to pour by half
Someone else had also recommended to use a piece of plexiglass or acrylic with holes cut out in them. The holes would provide sturdier intertwined contact with the rubber so that it doesn't just peel off When you pull away the robber. And the bonus that it would take an immensely less amount of time finagling with hot gluing ice cream sticks together. I don't know what I was thinking but I guess someone had to do the dumb thing at least once for all of us to learn what not to do. Lol
I have kept every sprue since starting to buy 40k models and I'd really like an additional set of some infantry that I'll be picking up here shortly. It would be nice to convert my old plastic scrap into 10 more bodies
Funny you mentioned it. There's a video by Miniature Hobbyist
ua-cam.com/video/1O-MSfI73SY/v-deo.html
He's done exactly what you are talking about. Reusing old plastic to cast new objects. Not miniatures unfortunately but I'm sure if you have a mold, you can apply the principle.
may be you can also use some board to make a gate/key on top of your parts like forgeworld do, so that the bubble can all just hang out there instead?
Maybe. There's a lot of paces where bubbles tend to get trapped, hence why the extra step of placing vents.
It's also worth noting that GW uses injection molding, where bubbles get dealt with a different way under high pressures. In this case, it's simple gravity fed liquid plastic fill, so the rules for dealing with bubbles are different.
Have you tried building the form on top of a cheap Vibrating Machine Lab Shaker Oscillator? Would remove the bubbles.
I actually did get myself a small high frequency orbital vibration table used in dental labs. It shakes my whole damn desk, Great massager. Haven't used it seriously enough to get all the bubbles out.
@@RebelWorkshop In the lab we kept that kind of device on a solid surface mounted to the floor. So totally understand the vibration would be a bit un-nerving lol
@@connectingcomics Indeed, Need a log, an anvil or a cement block for a table to make it work. My main issue has really been bubbles under the crevices that form air pockets
So the best way I've made molds from sprues is horizontally, not vertically. This guarantees that the two flat surfaces of the mold that are most critical are perfectly flat and parallel. I suspend the sprue in the mold cavity with clay pillars and then after the silicone is set I remove them and fill em in. Its more like clay pyramids but you get the idea 🙂
Also Ive found that a vacuum chamber to de-bubble the silicone before I pour it (and pouring in one corner only and letting it fill slowly) is the best way to make perfect, dense, bubble free molds. I then use a compression chamber (paint gun pressure pot or sometimes called a paint tank) to make the plastic sprues. I pour the plastic into the mold and then immediately place the whole thing in the compression and have it at 60PSI this makes any bubbles that are in the plastic shrink until they dissolve and I'm left with a perfect bubble free recast!
Yep, that's another valid approach. I try not to over complicate things with extra equipment even though I do have those vacuum chambers and pressure pots
Stop making sense ! We're here for the entertainment value !!! 😈
You should have something plywood or more ideally a metal plate on both sides of the mold and then clamp that in the 4 corners to apply a more even pressure.
Indeed. Welp at least now I know. And hopefully this'll save the trouble for anyone else who has the same "brilliant" idea. hehe
Try pouring it from one cup to another so the bottom of the first now becomes the top of the other. Then continue mixing
This is for the liquid plastic? Or the Silicone?
Genius method you saved me some money
Was that a ZF reference?
Might have been. What timestamp?
@@RebelWorkshop 2:34
@@MrDatBlock Oh, lmao, They themselves referenced it from: ua-cam.com/video/Ln2Xq8fCNI8/v-deo.html&pp=ygUjbmlnaHQgdGltZSBkYXkgdGltZSB0YWxraW5nIGFuaW1hbHM%3D&ab_channel=smon
I have an interesting idea. Try using a large syringe to fill the mold from the bottom up. Keep it oriented as you have it now, but add a short length of tubing sticking out the bottom. Dump the casting resin into a large syringe, put the plunger in, and force the resin into the mold from the bottom. This way as it pushes up through the mold, under pressure from the syringe, it will force all the air out the top. As long as you have vents to ensure no undercuts trap bubbles, this should result in a completely bubble free casting.
You know if there was such a thing as a transparent silicone, One could use a syringe with a large nizzle to fill in any bubbly areas post-cure
@@RebelWorkshop Not sure what you mean, I was talking about something like this ua-cam.com/video/gWrS0KzRivw/v-deo.html
Right right. I was thinking more about using transparent resin so you can see the faults and fill them in with a needle and syringe before popping it open
That was fun!👍
Just got my ass kicked by my recent molding, an utter failure, I don't think I will be doing the whole sprue thing, it just too easy to prone to error, like sometimes the parts arrangement would shoot out from the sprue to the left side for example, I for once have cut the part wrong, beside is impossible to not make mistakes under these circumstances as some part would stick out more than the other, so I really have to watch out where I make the cut... and the bubbles, man, the vertical method generates significantly more bubbles on sensitive area of the model... unless I have a vacuum chamber... so I might get back to molding with silicon in the future, but with traditional two parts molds, to be honest, I am sticking hard to 3d printing for now, might get a 3d scanner though...
Hehehe, that sounds familiar. I've been and still am getting my ass wooped by recasts but having tried 3D printing, the one bottleneck is that someone has to actually sink in the time to make the 3D models available. Plus this mold making and recasting process just feels more fascinating than watching a printer go BRRRR.
I actually got a 3D scanner explicitly for the purpose of scanning a model and 3F printing it, and let me tell you... it sucks major donkey balls. I have the Revo Pop 2. It only makes an approximation of a model but all the important detail is lost. The new Revo pop blue laser seems a bit more promising but from the demos they posted it still doesn't look like anything you can just scan and 3D print right away.
What I can see people use these lasers for is creating proportion reference models for their 3D modelled recreations. So they still make the model from scratch in 3D but they use these 3D scanned model as reference to make sure their own bits are all in their appropriate place.
In my case, I'm hellbent on figuring out the recasting process as it seems to me the fastest way of getting the most true to original recreations. The 3D modeler's gonna have to be a one talented SOB and perhaps make use of a caliper and 3D scans as reffs to get a true to original model recreation. I got a new idea of how I might be able to make a bubble free cast. Stay Tuned.
I'm currently doing a test to see if my idea for a recasting trick is going to pan out and I just recalled the very reason why I orient my molds vertically instead of horizontaly.
You see with horizontally oriented molds , when you're making the actual mold, thousands upon thousands of bubbles, get trapped underneath the parts and those bubbles end up being cured into your mold so there's absolutely zero you can do about those. Not even a vacuum chamber can help you because those bubbles are trapped underneath the plastic sprues. And this is the reason why I make molds vertically because the surface area of a vertical mold is hundreds of times less than that of a horizontally oriented mold. So you end up with exponentially fewer if any bubbles getting trapped underneath the sprue bits. However, in this style of mold, most of the bubbles then form when you are pouring the liquid plastic and doing to recast the part. But those bobbles you can do something about with enough experimentation and creative thinking. Whereas the bubbles that were cured into your mold are there for good and I would usually consider those molds to be a write-off.
@@RebelWorkshop ah I see! as for the scanner, I am getting the einstar - shining 3d, it should yield a better result...
@@keithtam8859 Let's hope so because the revo pop2 was a disappointment... a very expensive disappointment.
This guy paid by gamesworkshop you wanna recast ur minis use a clay cast its not that hard. (Spoiler) no success shown.
Lmao. If Games Workshop paid me, they'd do it in Melee Weapons for Tau units.
Also tf you mean no success shown? I'd say that's a pretty good yield despite the janky experiment.
I'm not sure why you are doing videos of recasting. As it's one of the crappiest thing a gamer/modeller can do. It's causing the death of many companies and small shops. What makes your recasting any different?.
Just to make it clear, I am against re-selling recasts, but I am a firm proponent of "you buy it, you own it, you do whatever you want with it" approach. As long as you're not selling what the official stores sell. I find the process fun, therapeutic and generally fascinating from a technical standpoint. I don't sell these recasts as they're solely for my own enjoyment, so miniature shops aren't losing any money when there's no transaction. I can be doing the same videos with a custom 3D printed model as well so at this point it doesn't matter. The great thing about recasting is that they are very obviously inferior to the originals. So if someone wants best quality (excluding finecast) then they can put their well earned money into the originals. I for one got into recasts because one of the models I really wanted was out of stock for a year. So I tracked down an unopened original and decided if they don't want to provide stock, I'll make my own stock.
@@RebelWorkshop fair answer and detailed. I'm a miniature sculptor. And I've seen too many friends who sculpt etc suffering due to recasters is all. It's a bit like a red rag to a bull if you get me.
@@martinlong802 Oh absolutely. I get you completely. I imagine recasters who profit from copies use less janky setups than a chubby basement dude with a tub of silicone and hot glue gun. I've seen some mad commercial hardware that costing upwards to 5 to 10K made explicitly for recasting.
▶24:24 = ICE🍧CREAM~STICK🥢REPLACEMENT.....🤔.....I have the Most Obvious ANSWER to this Question; But 1st I want to see* how many of *_You in the Comments_* have come up w/ the same Answer I have in mind; *⬇COMMENT Below⬇*
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can you use lego instead of project board for the mold casting?
I used to and I've seen others use lego as well. I think it can work for the base but for the side walls, my lego walls used to leak like mad. Might be something to do with me using really cheap lego knockoffs so at the price of real lego bricks, I'd rather just use project board or even 3D print some modular walls (which is what I did in my latest video)