I too installed the 1000w bafang from Eunorau and noticed/confirmed I would need to file/drill the holes since the OEM Bafang 1000w has a slightly smaller diameter for the screws to fit the Rad Motor shell. I chose to take off rear wheel and tire (and wheel strip by force) and take off spokes to thread in the the entire new motor. Wish I bought the special flat head screw driver tip like Amazon's "Unior Speed Nipple Bit" but oh well, I stripped a few nipples and managed to get wheel 'almost perfect' straight and super tight. .. This route was a direct fit into the brakes which means that the sizing issue is the end-caps being different with and the rotor mounts w/ different protrusion length. Just fyi for anyone else, don't be afraid to re-spoke the wheel if you want. Spoke length remains the same (spokes can be re-used). Just be careful not to strip the spoke nipples either from inside or outside if using wrench. Grin Technologies has a great video about threading spokes diy at home. 27mph max now. Climbs hills way better. Extra Note: Rad Motor had a lot of gunky automotive black grease used inside. Bafang OEM had correct silver/white thin grease correctly placed. Used an Amazon $30 freewheel versus removing previous and had to adjust derailleur a bit. Rad Runner Plus, Grin Cycle Analyst/ Baserunner Controller, 2 batteries/ Front Regen Motor addition with another Baserunner controller is next. Hope this helps, go for it and add the power!
Just wanted to chime in on my motor upgrade. Used the link in one of the other post and got this exact motor to upgrades my RR+. All went well until I put the wheel back on. I could not get my brakes to stop rubbing. The rotors were catching the washers on the screws of the brake calipers and portions of the frame itself. It wasn't until I went to check the tire pressure, pushed on the tire and the whole wheel slid side to side when it was securely fastened to the bike. I was able to move the wheel side to side about a 1/2 inch! I figured out I needed some washers on the inside of the motor to correctly center the tire. After inserting 4 hefty washers everything worked great. I also had to use a round file to extend the holes on the motor side for the bolts in order to get the holes to line up.
I've had this motor a few weeks now and I think I'm having to same issue. How does washers on the inside fix this, wouldn't they just slide around inside with the motor? Any help would be appreciated!
@@brianwilliams4686 So if you swap original motor for the one from the link grab the axel and see if you can push/pull it. If it moves back and forth ( has play in it) you can add washers inside to remove said play. Go to time stamp 4:52. see the motor on top, the one with the gears still attached? Those gears should normal be right up against the inside of the case . The motor should fit inside the case with out any wiggle room. If you shake the case with the motor inside it shouldn't bang around inside the case. After I got mine all installed the first time, I mounted the wheel with old case new motor and I didn't realize it but my whole rear wheel could move side to side by about an inch. . With the motor outside of the case I put washers on the gear side of the axel to eliminate the extra space the motor had inside the case. Not sure if im making any sense. Let me know if you need additional help. BUT if you have everything installed new motor in case and tire/rim mounted back on the bike axel bolts tight , see if you can move the wheel side to side. If you can it's not bad, it's fucking bad! Let me know how you make out
Ordered a G062 750w motor with the cable on the rotor side. My question is do I need to change out the controller and if it will you connect up to the original cable. Not trying to get more power just trying to replace my broken motor. Thanks for the video.
Hello, where did you got that motor? Can you provide the exact type info? I found one but the cable connector is not the same as the original RAD motor.
@@andrewsmashes that’s exactly what i did lol I gotta say it’s not worth the hassle if you’re looking for top speed. But the torque is fantastic. Thing really moves Check out biggamebikes, they’re in UK but customer service is unparalleled.
@@Mynameisdiy i have a few incline hills on my way to and from work. will i notice a huge difference between having just the 35 amp controller upgrade vs having both 1000w motor upgrade and 35 amp controller? honestly im happy if i can do 20 or 25 mph going up a hill maintaining it with throttle only if thats possible. also i thought having a higher watt motor increased top speeds? using a speedometer app how fast are you going top speed is it 28mph? 30 32?
@@vincentvincent2658 oh you’ll notice and maintain speed for sure. I’m having trouble with my top speed as i don’t believe my lcd screen is accurate. However i did max out at 31 on a speedometer app on my phone. But again i wonder how accurate any of it is. Point being you get way more power/torque. Hills are no problem. Only thing I’m concerned about is my output has gone into the 1800Ws maybe higher. I usually let off the throttle and pedal not because the bike is struggling, but because I’m just not familiar enough w the science of it all. And i don’t want to damage any of my components
Had this problem but luckily the great customer support at BGB helped me out, ordered a 1K motor from the link you listed. Can you speak to the speed improvement over stock? Our UK Radrunner Plus could only ever hit 21MPH with the stock 500w motor, even with the 35a controller.
every motot turns a certain max. speed for a certain voltage. You can either increase the voltage through a different batterie or use a motor with which is made to run faster. A motor which is faster has lower torque though.
@@Mynameisdiy hey i just got the 35 amp controller to use with my 1000 wat motor on rad runner plus but im getting motor possition sensor failur and i cant find a solution. did you have the 35 amp controller as well? please any advice i dont think but i had trouble mounting this on the bottom of the bike it might of pinchd the cables but every connection popped into place so i dont think thats it. do u mind sharing the p settings if u do have one quick
@@vincentvincent2658 sure thing. I got you first thing in the am. I’m not sure which failure that is but i do know the one time i got an error i freaked out. But it was because my motor cable wasn’t fully pushed into the controller connection. Hopefully it’s that simple. But it requires a nice bit of Force
@@Mynameisdiy thanks you were right i just wish i waited for your reply was annoying taking everything off with missing allen. instead do u mind sharing your settings so far the display says i can go 27mph with 1000w motor 35 amp controler and display but i know i should be able to go much faster than that right.
I too installed the 1000w bafang from Eunorau and noticed/confirmed I would need to file/drill the holes since the OEM Bafang 1000w has a slightly smaller diameter for the screws to fit the Rad Motor shell. I chose to take off rear wheel and tire (and wheel strip by force) and take off spokes to thread in the the entire new motor. Wish I bought the special flat head screw driver tip like Amazon's "Unior Speed Nipple Bit" but oh well, I stripped a few nipples and managed to get wheel 'almost perfect' straight and super tight. .. This route was a direct fit into the brakes which means that the sizing issue is the end-caps being different with and the rotor mounts w/ different protrusion length. Just fyi for anyone else, don't be afraid to re-spoke the wheel if you want. Spoke length remains the same (spokes can be re-used). Just be careful not to strip the spoke nipples either from inside or outside if using wrench. Grin Technologies has a great video about threading spokes diy at home.
27mph max now. Climbs hills way better. Extra Note: Rad Motor had a lot of gunky automotive black grease used inside. Bafang OEM had correct silver/white thin grease correctly placed. Used an Amazon $30 freewheel versus removing previous and had to adjust derailleur a bit.
Rad Runner Plus, Grin Cycle Analyst/ Baserunner Controller, 2 batteries/ Front Regen Motor addition with another Baserunner controller is next. Hope this helps, go for it and add the power!
Just wanted to chime in on my motor upgrade. Used the link in one of the other post and got this exact motor to upgrades my RR+. All went well until I put the wheel back on. I could not get my brakes to stop rubbing. The rotors were catching the washers on the screws of the brake calipers and portions of the frame itself. It wasn't until I went to check the tire pressure, pushed on the tire and the whole wheel slid side to side when it was securely fastened to the bike. I was able to move the wheel side to side about a 1/2 inch! I figured out I needed some washers on the inside of the motor to correctly center the tire. After inserting 4 hefty washers everything worked great. I also had to use a round file to extend the holes on the motor side for the bolts in order to get the holes to line up.
I've had this motor a few weeks now and I think I'm having to same issue. How does washers on the inside fix this, wouldn't they just slide around inside with the motor? Any help would be appreciated!
@@brianwilliams4686 So if you swap original motor for the one from the link grab the axel and see if you can push/pull it. If it moves back and forth ( has play in it) you can add washers inside to remove said play. Go to time stamp 4:52. see the motor on top, the one with the gears still attached? Those gears should normal be right up against the inside of the case . The motor should fit inside the case with out any wiggle room. If you shake the case with the motor inside it shouldn't bang around inside the case. After I got mine all installed the first time, I mounted the wheel with old case new motor and I didn't realize it but my whole rear wheel could move side to side by about an inch. . With the motor outside of the case I put washers on the gear side of the axel to eliminate the extra space the motor had inside the case. Not sure if im making any sense. Let me know if you need additional help. BUT if you have everything installed new motor in case and tire/rim mounted back on the bike axel bolts tight , see if you can move the wheel side to side. If you can it's not bad, it's fucking bad! Let me know how you make out
Just got a RRunner 1spd. The power cable is on the rotor side as well. Seems to be the trend.
I'm told this won't work on the RRunner 1, only works on the plus. Bummer as I have a 1 speed as well
Ordered a G062 750w motor with the cable on the rotor side. My question is do I need to change out the controller and if it will you connect up to the original cable. Not trying to get more power just trying to replace my broken motor. Thanks for the video.
Good info
Can you add the old motor to the front weel?
so i never see info about the Rad Runner 2 which I am almost positive is the same as a plus, no cassette.
All you had to do was change the phase wire orientation to reverse how it turns
wish I knew what a phase wire was!
Impressive insight! Could you explain how to change the phase wire orientation?
Hello, where did you got that motor? Can you provide the exact type info? I found one but the cable connector is not the same as the original RAD motor.
Is the rad runner 1 500 w cuz in my bike says 750 ? Should I get the eggride display cuz I want to make it faster? Can you help me.
Do you know about compatibility with the RadRover 6+?
Does the 1000W drop in to the stock housing or did you have to rebuild the wheel and take the stock motor out and lace up the spokes again?
Drop in replacement!
@@Mynameisdiy nice! Thanks. I recently bought a RR+ and have been looking hard at the 35a controller, this motor and some battery upgrades.
@@andrewsmashes that’s exactly what i did lol
I gotta say it’s not worth the hassle if you’re looking for top speed.
But the torque is fantastic. Thing really moves
Check out biggamebikes, they’re in UK but customer service is unparalleled.
@@Mynameisdiy i have a few incline hills on my way to and from work. will i notice a huge difference between having just the 35 amp controller upgrade vs having both 1000w motor upgrade and 35 amp controller? honestly im happy if i can do 20 or 25 mph going up a hill maintaining it with throttle only if thats possible. also i thought having a higher watt motor increased top speeds? using a speedometer app how fast are you going top speed is it 28mph? 30 32?
@@vincentvincent2658 oh you’ll notice and maintain speed for sure. I’m having trouble with my top speed as i don’t believe my lcd screen is accurate. However i did max out at 31 on a speedometer app on my phone. But again i wonder how accurate any of it is.
Point being you get way more power/torque. Hills are no problem. Only thing I’m concerned about is my output has gone into the 1800Ws maybe higher. I usually let off the throttle and pedal not because the bike is struggling, but because I’m just not familiar enough w the science of it all. And i don’t want to damage any of my components
Quick question for ya, do you have to pull the freewheel when you do the swap ? Thanks for your help,I was lost effort I ran across your vidio.
No sir! For some reason either the new RR+ or just this batch
The motor comes out on the rotor side
Freewheel stays intact
Thank you, that is good news. You did a good job on the the video, it was well explained.
Stock motor on Rad Runner Plus does not say Bafang on it. It says Rad Power Bikes.
Does it work with the rad runner 1 speed? I think you said it did? Not sure
Sorry i have no clue
I’m not sure if the 1 speeds are shipping w the same motors
Had this problem but luckily the great customer support at BGB helped me out, ordered a 1K motor from the link you listed.
Can you speak to the speed improvement over stock? Our UK Radrunner Plus could only ever hit 21MPH with the stock 500w motor, even with the 35a controller.
every motot turns a certain max. speed for a certain voltage. You can either increase the voltage through a different batterie or use a motor with which is made to run faster. A motor which is faster has lower torque though.
I’m skeptical about my speedometer I’ve seen as high as 32 on an app on my iPhone
@@Mynameisdiy hey i just got the 35 amp controller to use with my 1000 wat motor on rad runner plus but im getting motor possition sensor failur and i cant find a solution. did you have the 35 amp controller as well? please any advice i dont think but i had trouble mounting this on the bottom of the bike it might of pinchd the cables but every connection popped into place so i dont think thats it. do u mind sharing the p settings if u do have one quick
@@vincentvincent2658 sure thing. I got you first thing in the am.
I’m not sure which failure that is but i do know the one time i got an error i freaked out. But it was because my motor cable wasn’t fully pushed into the controller connection. Hopefully it’s that simple. But it requires a nice bit of Force
@@Mynameisdiy thanks you were right i just wish i waited for your reply was annoying taking everything off with missing allen. instead do u mind sharing your settings so far the display says i can go 27mph with 1000w motor 35 amp controler and display but i know i should be able to go much faster than that right.
whats your range after the 1000w upgrade on the radrunner+ with 30a controller from electrobikew
Throttle only
What controller are you using with the new motor?
The 35A controller from electro bike world