Another great episode. I must say, for those who scoff at the idea of a small generator like this, you may want to rethink it. I bought a Yamaha EF1000 generator back in 1992 after our neighborhood was swept by Hurricane Andrew. I held onto that thing for 20 years and it ran like a top season after season. No, it wasn't powerful enough to run the central A/C, or even a window A/C but here are two things to keep in mind. First it was able to run a regular sized refrigerator, or an LCD/LED TV plus a few LED lights, a small box fan and most importantly charge up phones, flashlights and lanterns. But the second and I think key part here was it could do so while absolutely sipping gas. I'm talking about perhaps 1.5 per DAY to operate. So while all my neighbors were spending 6-8 hours EVERY OTHER DAY waiting inline at a gas station just to get enough gas to keep their generators going for a day or so [remember, post hurricane gas can be rationed!], I was able to run mine for almost an entire week with just a couple of 5 gallon jugs I had for the push mower. Just something to keep in mind for those real emergencies. I let that old Yamaha go when we moved [couldnt justfy shipping it when the house we moved to had a new Honda 4000 watt unit waiting for us] but If I found one like this at a garage sale I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to pick one back up again.
That is a very excellent point made. I've never really thought of it that way. Thanks for teaching me something that I feel is a good piece of information.
Tig, mig or brazing are very viable options to repair that tank. In our trade, we clean the tank with water then make sure that it remains full when welding. This would be the safer option.
A soldered patch is possible there also. Alpha Metals 53982 (98% Sn / 2% Ag) mp 450F soft silver solder can be gotten at ace hardware and other places. It is a lead free soft solder but much stronger than usual soft solders. It will flow and bond well even to stainless steel or carbon steel. Possible to sand the area where the tank is cracked down to bare metal to flux and solder a repair plate, like a fender washer having its opposite sides cut off to make a band aid shape patch that will fit flat and have a hole that lines up with the rivnut on the tank.
@@artpatronforever Funny, I have the exact same generator, however mine is branded Dunlite, but with the same Subaru engine. My tank cracked the same way about 8 years ago and I did my repair the same way you described. I had considered using JB instead of silver solder, but thought the long term fuel exposure would be more reliable with soldering. I actually made the plates follow down the outside of the tank some way and made one for each end, not expecting the other end to last much longer. They are a great generator that is well worth preserving, mine has run our refrigerator through many extended blackouts, one was for a week, with three long runs a day over that time it used very little fuel. Mine is a keeper, and since the repair no leaks have returned. I grit blasted the area before fluxing prior to soldering. I also used copper sheet to make the plates and re blasted then painted it all black after the repair. I suspect mine cracked from it's previous life running around in the back of a tradies utility, and probably had heavy stuff sitting or getting dropped on top regularly. I was surprised to see another.
Nice one James. That is an Easy Braze/Solder repair on the Tank. I just did a common google search for the g1000 and there are a lot of them out there as well as Carbs. I have a little Kawasaki 550 watt. I call it My "Suite Case" that runs super Sweet. as old as it is it will give any Honda a run for it's money for DB level as well as My 1939 military 300 Watt DC Briggs Gen set. Thanks. Mike M.
Yes... That's what I said! Fill it full of water after rinsing out the tank several times and braze it to fix the crack. Not sure if solder would be a good fix as it is a load bearing area... I have fixed lots of tanks like that, even on cars... 🙂 LLAP 🖖
The suggestions made here are good - Brazing the crack or Silver Solder would work to seal, but I would drill out the nuts and add a backer plate with a new nut welded to it, on the inside to reinforce the repair. That method could be done using JB Weld and no welding.
@@Bruces-Eclectic-World Yep. That is the way I fixed a bunch of Honda ATV and Dirt Bike tanks. For some reason they would rust pin holes in the bottom corners on their tanks.
As others have stated, the repair to the tank is a simple weld/braze job. Drain and rinse, dry and weld/braze and all is good. Great fix so far as usual. Too small for anything I could use, but a good camp gen for light load. Thanks for sharing.
I would like to send a big thank you to the subscriber that picked this one up for you. If you have never worked on one, then this has to be a pretty rare model. I have never seen one like this. Thank you for a doing a video on this one. I love seeing things that I have never seen before.
Currently, your generator content is shockingly good, serving to amplify my interest in them. All dad jokes aside, well done. Would love to have you work your magic on my 80s vintage Yamaha EF600.
Really like watching you work on these old generators. I have a Sears Generator that was purchased in the early to mid 70s that i still use for power in one of my remote out buildings. Just goes to prove that if this older equipment is well maintained it will continue to give many years of service.
Better built and the power output it just about as good as a modern generator.
4 місяці тому+1
I just bought one of those at an estate sale for $25 it looks pretty rough but I thought I'd give it a try clean the carburetor I thought it was good but still wouldn't start after watching that video I took the carburetor back apart checked everything you looked at clean it again and put it back on the first pull started right up thank you
I have my Generac G1000 generator that I purchased in 1985 and it still works well today. I used that generator in Scotland to run my 60hz power tools. It has never failed me. I still wonder why it says Unleaded Fuel Only on it. I don’t think leaded fuel would fowl anything. I also have the handle issue where it is starting to crack the tank, but it does not leak yet. Your attention to detail in your repairs is amazing.
The handle could be TIG welded. Weld the crack, then weld on an oversized washer to spread the load. Do it on both sides. Lastly a generous lathering of JB on both welds before painting just to make sure it's air tight.
Say James, fill the tank with water and braze the cracks shut on the tank. Not only will it fix the genset but ya'll will get practice brazing which is very handy. Don't overheat the tank or you will make a mess. If filled with water it can't explode but ya'll may need the water away from the crack a tiny bit. Do it Mack.
A adapter plate can be made to mount a clone carb. The plate would have holes with proper spacing to mount to the engine. It also would have studs spaced to fit the carb. I'd use aluminum. Should work if there's room for the proper spacing.
What a great little genny. Keep us posted either on a new used tank or a repair. Too bad it's a structural issue as the handle has to carry the weight of the unit and the fuel. It was nice to see it running and also, I am happy the JB Weld held up.
37:25 That's not a problem. JB Weld is made specifically for this situation. I used to own a Toyota that developed the same problem. A little JB Weld fixed it for long enough that I forgot about it - about 6 years of constant driving.
I worked at such place I picked up gas tanks from Bus Companies as well as airport’s we did a magnificent work for them too bad they went out of business Newman radiator and gas tank repairs Bklyn , N.Y. I’m sure you can find a repair shop around where you are good luck buddy I like your work I’m gonna work on my stuff following your ideas
Darn. It was like saving a victim of a car crash only to find after healing in the hospital, that they had a brain tumor. Maybe somebody with welding skills can weld up the tank to restore its needed strength. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
Agree with M9Ovich James, clean up that tank hole with your dremel, heat it up to cherry red with a blowtorch and braze it with a silicone bronze rod and appropriate flux. Of course, you will know to get rid of all the petrol fumes first. That repair would make a great video too.
I bought some of the screw removal pliers and they have saved my ass at work a couple of times already !!! I can't thank you enough for telling me about them !! Great video as always.
After reading many of the comments about repairing the tank, I saw many people who missed the easiest way to prevent the tank exploding when welding. Go get some dry ice (many of your local grocery stores carry it) and put some in the tank to displace the oxygen, then weld away. As for the leaking fuel inlet pipe, remove the pipe from the carb, clean thoroughly then apply Loctite bearing loc then press the pipe back into the carburetor.
AGREE easy braze/solder repair. I do not have the skills but my friend does this all the time. The tank is repairable. great video. Also agree in use of JB weld for fuel plug. I love these type of small generators.
I have one of these, we won it in a local CAT dealer raffle, 1989ish. We toted it on jobs to run sawzall or grinder. Made a different handle from the base, as lifting did crack the gas tank. Still have it has not run in years. We JB welded the tank, new handle cured the lifting.
Nice job Jim: I had a small honda generator, I think it was 600 or700 watts, I cleaned it up, cleaned the carb, ran great and had two different people trying to get it from me. Finally sold it for $300. It was also obsolete. I wish I had the model still. Thanks.
Definitely braze or tig the tank. No problem. Based on another post you might get a replacement. Great episode. It runs so sweetly it would be a handy little guy to keep around.
Great Video. Back in the day I was lucky enough to take an Industrial Arts Course in High school which which gave me a great amount of experience in braising. Don't think they teach that anymore. I would not hesitate to make a repair on on the tank because it would be covered. Also there are some new alloy rods on amazon that would make that easily done with a propane or Map gas. Enjoy your very explanatory repairs.
A friend had one of these he gave me. He used it to run a 5000 BTU window AC in a camping van. He said it would run for a while, die, then not restart. I cleaned a lot of rust out of the tank, sediment bowl, and float bowl. Runs great, quiet, and it runs the 5k BTU AC in my garage. Thanks for the O-scope test, too!
You are without a doubt one of the most methodical mechanics I have ever had the pleasure to watch on YT. I repaired small engines for many years and I am very impressed by your through nature and your knowledge. Preface this next remark with yes I do understand the repair process and that warranty, liability issues create constraints on repair that you are able to entertain, but (oh that pesky but) personally I would have repaired the carb like you did (which surprised me given your previous statement) or would have used a tap and inserted a nipple in to the new threads. And repaired the tank with a stiffing tab brazed in place. You know in the time honored tradition of all arm chair second guessers worldwide :) Great vid. Amazing skills and tech... thanks sir!
I do believe JB Weld will work sufficiently for that tank. Lots of people have used it on many applications for strength. Even the packaging has many use cases.
I would eliminate the handle and seal the holes with JB weld or rubber gasket, washer and the old handle screw. With any repair I would not trust using the handle again as the tank is structurally weakened at the point of the crack.
Page 32:45 it was made without line filter because the line runs down and back up leaving debris gravitates down at low spot where the line valve is. A filter can be inserted to the down path and not the path going up where the beaded section is. Hope this helps.
Actually the in line filter on the up flow to the carb would tend to be the "last resort" and tend to stay relatively clean as most of any debris will end up in the sediment bowl under the tap...easily visually checked and emptied.
As far as the tank, you can clean that area completely, mix up some J B weld and coat some fiberglass cloth wit the JB Weld. Imbed the cloth in layers making sure each one is bubble free. It will be very strong and actually hold up to vibration better than brazing.
I repaired a motorcycle tank this way once. It held up for years until I sold the bike. I used west system epoxy with the fiberglass cloth, not JB weld, but JB weld would work also.
A way to maybe loosen emulsion tubes could be a electronics surface mount reflow setup .. they have a wand with a small tube on the end and you can blow temp controlled hot air out the tube and use that to bring some expansion to that emulsion tube area without flame or damage. Great little tool to have in the lineup.
It's a really neat idea and I plan to try it! The SMD rework stations have a hot air nozzle that puts out a very concentrated, very well temperature regulated stream of hot air. I believe mine will go as low as 100 degrees C, and I've run it over over 400 degrees C if I remember right. Some of them can really put out some wattage, so you've got a great combination of pin-point application, excellent temperature control, and power. Especially if the pot metal / zinc / aluminum of the carb body expands more with heat than the brass emulsion tube. I will admin that I once removed a set-screw from a knob by shoving a small soldering iron down inside the knob to heat the set-screw. It eventually came out.
Thats a small generator , will agree, they made alot to compete with those Honda tini generators, i still have an old Kawasaki 1000 watt generator, looks very similar, and runs fine, Great video, Saw you on the Kens Small Engine Chat Channel
Could pull out that tube which would have just been pressed in. Press back in with gasket sealer. Can fix tank cracks with silver solder and a bit of brass shim
I had one of these it was a craftsman ,same exact model bought it in 1988 to build my first house ,Yes 6.5 amps isn't much .I gave it to a friend my fuel lines rotted out ,other than that it worked fine thanks
If you have lost power, this unit would charge 35 iPhones for you and all your friends! Really - If you don't have power, something as simple as this can make the world feel somewhat normal - a light, a phone charger, a small TV, and a small space heater - Stuff all Glamper's want. Love it!
I agree, a good tig welder should be able to fix that tank right up for you. I searched for, and found a Generac 800 watt suitcase generator to charge up my small solar battery after multiple days of cloudy weather. I chose one just slightly under the maximum charge rate the batteries can accept in order to save on fuel. Why run my 3500 W generator if an 800 W generator will do it using much less fuel?
Hello James you can fix that yank with brazing rod and a tin can. Cut a patch piece from an can lid or bottom. Match the shape to the area needing repair plus 1/4 inch.use a MAP gas torch and braze the patch to the tank. It will give you a stronger and more flexible repair than tig or might welding. Less likely to Crack along side the weld in the HAZ area. Even regular plumbers solder and lap joint will work. Be sure to remove any surface coating (galvanizing if any) on tank surface prior to brazing or soldering. Be sure to vent tank properly properly prior to repair. Cheap and relatively easy to do.
Dido on the Brazing. just fill the tank with soapy water but leave enough gap so the heated area won't get quenched and if that area flashes the expansion has a way to escape. I've done this on hundreds of all types of fuel tanks with long lasting repair. Use the right size tip on you Oxy/Ac rig is important and heat the area first to burn off any remaining solvents. A 3/32 brazing rod flux coated should do the trick. If you are worried about the structure, you can always add a washer after first pass and Braze the washer over the repair for extra support. I would not recommend silver solder because I have not had much luck with long time use [but that is my opinion] but others may have had better results.
Using a "wheel from a Storm Responder generator" is an interesting choice for providing perspective as to relative size. I would have chosen something a little more widely known, like a headlight bezel from a 1935 Duesenberg SSJ.
Repairing that tank is pretty straightforward. Just one bend on a piece of sheet metal, some gas-safe RTV, and some rivets. Of course, I am a sheet metal worker so it's easy for me.
Yep, braze the tank. I have done it in the past successfully. Just be sure all gas vapors are out. I have blown them out and left them air for several days. then, flood it with nitrogen or some other non-flammable gas. That should do it. Enjoyed the video as always.
Neat! I’ve never seen such a small genny! Would be great if all you needed was to keep the sump pump and/or the boiler going for a while. Hope you can find a parts unit, thanks for another great video James!
I have one of these. That little Kawasaki runs like a watch. I purchased it decades ago from Home Club (how many decades have they been gone?). It was the store's but stopped running so they sold it to me for $25. I popped the bowl off and pulled out a wad of lint from the bottom of the main jet. The only other thing I have done to it was replace the MOV on the end of the generator module. The thing is quiet, fuel thrifty and is enough to run my folk's gas fireplace, TV, and lights when their power goes out. It is a great little unit. It won't start appliances, but they're warm and taken care of for the duration. Braze the tank or put a boat tank fitting in the line (I do that to all my units anyway). There are also some boat fuel tank epoxy products available to coat the tank. That shouldn't be much of a problem at all to fix adequately. I run a good strong dose of carb cleaner thru it every once in a while, then run the gas out of the system. It works every time.
That’s cute! I’d never seen a Generac branded miniature generator. Back in the late 70’s I bought a little Kohler similar to that Generac. The Kohjer is a Japanese built 800 w / 1000 peak 4 cycle machine. I still have the Kohler in it’s original factory carton.
James, that cracked tank will be an easy repair if you know someone in your area who has the equipment and knowledge/skill to braze it. Clean the gasoline out of the tank thoroughly, and that will be a very easy repair. If you can't find anyone in your area or in your circle of friends, I could probably do it for you.
I spend hours watching your videos and enjoy doing so. If I had the tank I could repair it for you no problem. Thanks for taking the time to make these very good videos and sharing your knowledge
Some years ago the inlet port on the diesel filter for my John Deere tractor came loose, as in disconnected. I can get the complete filter housing assembly, but wanted a quick fix to complete mowing the lawn. I used Marine JB Weld to epoxy the inlet port back in the housing. This was 6+ years ago. I love a temporary fix which holds up. I expect your fix should hold up. Sad about the tank. Perhaps this can be brazed or hard soldered if you cannot find a used one. The unit runs terrific, other than the fuel issue. Well done. Dave.
James that fuel line would solder. A good solder will seal that line. The tank will braze. James you should look at welders and soldering equipment. Great Job
Taryl fixes all had a generator that was a small maybe 25cc two stroke motor with a little baby generator on it. Was the cutest little thing i ever did see lol. It was old but he got it workin!
Flush the tank, purge the tank, and braze or Weld it. Rubber Plug or Cork it, and air test it. Soap and water... "Everything's possible, but not everything is profitable."
Thank you for the video. I own a small generator made by Kawasaki. Only 750 and runs for about 4 hours on one tank of fuel. One power outage I saved a side of beef defrosting in a chest freezer with it. Worked well till the owner could find a larger generator to power his well / freezer and part of his house. Hope you can find parts for this.
I have soldered gas tanks with acid core solder before with success. Make sure tank is clean where you are going to solder with wire brush, then tin the area with acid core solder and then solder it. Heat an iron with gas torch , then use it on tank. That way you can repair it safely.
Most old carbs didn't have anything to pull the needle open. I think this really became a necessity with E10 fuel. I have had problems with old John Deere carbs sticking the needle shut after sitting a couple weeks. Usually a couple light taps with a small hammer gets it flowing. They have no ridge to even add a spring.
You should look into a product called Kream or red coat. it allows you to seal multiple tanks but it's a little bit of work and as far as the leaking carburetor Inlet goes, they are just pressed in and while what you did worked. You should have just used pliers to remove it, then use JB Weld to coat the outer surface and push it back into place.
I've been told that this was sometimes referred to as a "bread bin" generator, presumably because it looks like a small bread bin! and they were pretty scarce when they were new. It would be interesting to know if any more turn up anywhere, or how many still survive to this day. I wonder if Taryl might have come across one in the past. He seems to get a lot of oddball machines through his shop.
There have been suggestions of welding, brazing and of JB Weld gluing. Let's at first check what material the tank is. If it is steel, there are plenty of capable people welding or brazing it. If it is aluminum, then the skills (and also welding equipment) are less abundant. We are presumably dealing with quite thin sheet metal. If I saw correctly, the crack was on an area that had be formed to a non-flat shape ( a shoulder ), causing conditions for stress cracking. Best luck!
Great work James yet again. hopefully someone out there in youtube land may have a parts machine to get this one completed- seems far too good to scrap. Happy new year.
You could steam clean out the tank and get rid of all the fuel vapour and braze the handle insert back in the tank the braze(if a good flux is used) will flow into the crack and make for a good repair..i have done this on many fuel tanks to repair them in the past..old school repair im a plant mechanic from back in the 80's..now getting on for 60 years old but still like to do the repairs.
I ran into a similar issue on a carb for a Troy Bilt tiller that I was working on that I had no way to determine the model number on. I used blue thread locker on it, and it worked flawlessly. It is not leaking at all. I did the repair about three months ago, and have yet to have any issues.
I'd JB Weld a square plate over the handle bolt holds (both sides too). The spread load the plate offered would both seal the leak and improve the strength of the handle fixings.
33:00 I'm always for keeping old parts that are in good shape and don't need replacing, but I would definitely make an exception for that fuel line. That fuel line is probably not ethanol rated. Having those fuel lines harden and crack with fuel in the tank is a recipe for a fire.
Eliminate the stock handle and run a strap around the entire generator with a couple rivets to hold it in place. JB Weld the leaks and be done with it, no more stress on tank or the nut pulling the rope to start it...Thanks for your time!
James, about 6 years ago, while driving the Al/Can highway from Alaska to the lower 48, I had to swerve to avoid something in the road. I pulled aside, trotted back to remove the obstruction and I'm pretty sure it was this exact same model of generator that had apparently fallen off of someone's vehicle. It was pretty well destroyed from it's tumble down the roadway so I set it at the base of the next nearest signpost. I suppose there is hope that another might be found to replace your missing/damaged bits. Cheers!
I honestly have one sitting in my backyard if you need parts I bought a 13KW generator so that just sits in my scrap pile I believe the spark plug wire was shot that’s why I said nope and thrown it aside it’s got all 3 parts you want
I take a big pry bar and put the straight end in the gas can and hit with a hammer knocks that plastic down into the can. The insert has a screen that will not let gas in quick at all. Government regulations are out of hand. Use a zip tie to hold the button in so it will flow in without fighting the spring action that makes it hard to hold the button in.
Nice small generator. It's a pity with crack in the tank; but it should be an easy fix with a little brazing.Thanks for a lot of good and instructive videos, and Happy New Year to you and yours.
Another great episode. I must say, for those who scoff at the idea of a small generator like this, you may want to rethink it. I bought a Yamaha EF1000 generator back in 1992 after our neighborhood was swept by Hurricane Andrew. I held onto that thing for 20 years and it ran like a top season after season. No, it wasn't powerful enough to run the central A/C, or even a window A/C but here are two things to keep in mind. First it was able to run a regular sized refrigerator, or an LCD/LED TV plus a few LED lights, a small box fan and most importantly charge up phones, flashlights and lanterns. But the second and I think key part here was it could do so while absolutely sipping gas. I'm talking about perhaps 1.5 per DAY to operate. So while all my neighbors were spending 6-8 hours EVERY OTHER DAY waiting inline at a gas station just to get enough gas to keep their generators going for a day or so [remember, post hurricane gas can be rationed!], I was able to run mine for almost an entire week with just a couple of 5 gallon jugs I had for the push mower. Just something to keep in mind for those real emergencies. I let that old Yamaha go when we moved [couldnt justfy shipping it when the house we moved to had a new Honda 4000 watt unit waiting for us] but If I found one like this at a garage sale I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to pick one back up again.
Another thing about Florida, it is hard to drive without seeing a recently fueled boat with 50+ gallon tank
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@@JasonW. I know many people that use their boat tank as their reservoir for storm generator.
"sipping fuel"
That is a very excellent point made. I've never really thought of it that way. Thanks for teaching me something that I feel is a good piece of information.
Tig, mig or brazing are very viable options to repair that tank. In our trade, we clean the tank with water then make sure that it remains full when welding. This would be the safer option.
Agree. I would braze a flat piece over the top of the section, the handle would be up a bit afterwards but no matter.
A soldered patch is possible there also. Alpha Metals 53982
(98% Sn / 2% Ag) mp 450F soft silver solder can be gotten
at ace hardware and other places. It is a lead free soft solder
but much stronger than usual soft solders. It will flow and
bond well even to stainless steel or carbon steel. Possible to
sand the area where the tank is cracked down to bare metal
to flux and solder a repair plate, like a fender washer having
its opposite sides cut off to make a band aid shape patch
that will fit flat and have a hole that lines up with the rivnut
on the tank.
@@artpatronforever Funny, I have the exact same generator, however mine is branded Dunlite, but with the same Subaru engine. My tank cracked the same way about 8 years ago and I did my repair the same way you described. I had considered using JB instead of silver solder, but thought the long term fuel exposure would be more reliable with soldering. I actually made the plates follow down the outside of the tank some way and made one for each end, not expecting the other end to last much longer.
They are a great generator that is well worth preserving, mine has run our refrigerator through many extended blackouts, one was for a week, with three long runs a day over that time it used very little fuel. Mine is a keeper, and since the repair no leaks have returned. I grit blasted the area before fluxing prior to soldering. I also used copper sheet to make the plates and re blasted then painted it all black after the repair. I suspect mine cracked from it's previous life running around in the back of a tradies utility, and probably had heavy stuff sitting or getting dropped on top regularly. I was surprised to see another.
The other method of welding, after thorough cleaning, is flood the tank with CO2 or Argon while welding.
I have brazed floats up before
Nice one James.
That is an Easy Braze/Solder repair on the Tank.
I just did a common google search for the g1000 and there are a lot of them out there as well as Carbs.
I have a little Kawasaki 550 watt. I call it My "Suite Case" that runs super Sweet. as old as it is it will give any Honda a run for it's money for DB level as well as My 1939 military 300 Watt DC Briggs Gen set.
Thanks. Mike M.
Yes a small square/rectangular welded plate under each handle mount would make it stronger and usable.
Yes... That's what I said!
Fill it full of water after rinsing out the tank several times and braze it to fix the crack. Not sure if solder would be a good fix as it is a load bearing area...
I have fixed lots of tanks like that, even on cars... 🙂
LLAP 🖖
The suggestions made here are good - Brazing the crack or Silver Solder would work to seal, but I would drill out the nuts and add a backer plate with a new nut welded to it, on the inside to reinforce the repair. That method could be done using JB Weld and no welding.
@@Bruces-Eclectic-World Yep. That is the way I fixed a bunch of Honda ATV and Dirt Bike tanks. For some reason they would rust pin holes in the bottom corners on their tanks.
Great video! Funny, when I saw the seepage around the tube I was thinking "JB Weld".
Ditto.
A good welder could fix that tank. The tank would need to be dry. The welder would put CO2 gas in the tank, or water, and it could be tig welded.
Yeah man, like the man said, it could be tig welded.
I was also thinking of potentially brazing the cracked carb
It could be tig welded for sure. Also you could fabricate the heat shield pretty easily. Would it be worth it? That’s the question.
I have to agree on the brazing
PB
As others have stated, the repair to the tank is a simple weld/braze job. Drain and rinse, dry and weld/braze and all is good.
Great fix so far as usual. Too small for anything I could use, but a good camp gen for light load.
Thanks for sharing.
That gas tank is fixable once cleaned with a metal plate underneath and welded. I love this lil guy... so handy and runs so well..
mig it small piece of sheet metal should do it
Thanks James this is tex parks Lenoir city TN. After watching the video on the g1000. I had one come in for repair got it running thanks to you😊
I would like to send a big thank you to the subscriber that picked this one up for you. If you have never worked on one, then this has to be a pretty rare model. I have never seen one like this. Thank you for a doing a video on this one. I love seeing things that I have never seen before.
Yes!
You took us on a nice relaxing rollercoaster ride with this machine. Hope you return to it with a good result. Thanks.
Currently, your generator content is shockingly good, serving to amplify my interest in them. All dad jokes aside, well done. Would love to have you work your magic on my 80s vintage Yamaha EF600.
I have a fleet of these Honda 500, Honda 600 generators gotten going, great shelf art compared to these new ones
Really like watching you work on these old generators. I have a Sears Generator that was purchased in the early to mid 70s that i still use for power in one of my remote out buildings. Just goes to prove that if this older equipment is well maintained it will continue to give many years of service.
Better built and the power output it just about as good as a modern generator.
I just bought one of those at an estate sale for $25 it looks pretty rough but I thought I'd give it a try clean the carburetor I thought it was good but still wouldn't start after watching that video I took the carburetor back apart checked everything you looked at clean it again and put it back on the first pull started right up thank you
That emulsifier tube is often the problem.
I have my Generac G1000 generator that I purchased in 1985 and it still works well today. I used that generator in Scotland to run my 60hz power tools. It has never failed me. I still wonder why it says Unleaded Fuel Only on it. I don’t think leaded fuel would fowl anything. I also have the handle issue where it is starting to crack the tank, but it does not leak yet. Your attention to detail in your repairs is amazing.
leaded fuel burns a little cooler iirc, so my guess is it was designed for the slightly higher burn temp of the unleaded fuel.
Yes!
The handle could be TIG welded.
Weld the crack, then weld on an oversized washer to spread the load. Do it on both sides. Lastly a generous lathering of JB on both welds before painting just to make sure it's air tight.
Great suggestion. Brazing would be another viable option.
My thoughts were similar.... welding a support piece sounds plausible to me.
I think it can be done. Dry tank JB weld?
I agree Mike. I did the same thing to the tank on my Yamaha 1000cc Genesis Exup and it hasn't leaked a drop in ten years.
@@BKD70 Yes, Remove the tank, empty all gas and fill it with water to remove all fumes, clean the area to bare metal and them braze the crack.
Say James, fill the tank with water and braze the cracks shut on the tank. Not only will it fix the genset but ya'll will get practice brazing which is very handy. Don't overheat the tank or you will make a mess. If filled with water it can't explode but ya'll may need the water away from the crack a tiny bit. Do it Mack.
A adapter plate can be made to mount a clone carb. The plate would have holes with proper spacing to mount to the engine. It also would have studs spaced to fit the carb. I'd use aluminum. Should work if there's room for the proper spacing.
What a great little genny. Keep us posted either on a new used tank or a repair. Too bad it's a structural issue as the handle has to carry the weight of the unit and the fuel. It was nice to see it running and also, I am happy the JB Weld held up.
37:25 That's not a problem. JB Weld is made specifically for this situation. I used to own a Toyota that developed the same problem. A little JB Weld fixed it for long enough that I forgot about it - about 6 years of constant driving.
Thanks!
Thanks Billie
I worked at such place I picked up gas tanks from Bus Companies as well as airport’s we did a magnificent work for them too bad they went out of business Newman radiator and gas tank repairs Bklyn , N.Y. I’m sure you can find a repair shop around where you are good luck buddy I like your work I’m gonna work on my stuff following your ideas
I have used JB Weld to repair loose fuel line connectors on carbs with good success.
Darn. It was like saving a victim of a car crash only to find after healing in the hospital, that they had a brain tumor. Maybe somebody with welding skills can weld up the tank to restore its needed strength. Anyway, thanks for sharing! Stay healthy!
Agree with M9Ovich James, clean up that tank hole with your dremel, heat it up to cherry red with a blowtorch and braze it with a silicone bronze rod and appropriate flux. Of course, you will know to get rid of all the petrol fumes first. That repair would make a great video too.
Another interesting video, I always enjoy watching you troubleshoot and repair old non-working generators.
I bought some of the screw removal pliers and they have saved my ass at work a couple of times already !!!
I can't thank you enough for telling me about them !!
Great video as always.
Nice one.
Thanks Kenneth
After reading many of the comments about repairing the tank, I saw many people who missed the easiest way to prevent the tank exploding when welding. Go get some dry ice (many of your local grocery stores carry it) and put some in the tank to displace the oxygen, then weld away.
As for the leaking fuel inlet pipe, remove the pipe from the carb, clean thoroughly then apply Loctite bearing loc then press the pipe back into the carburetor.
Awesome thought and will do this the next tank I repair . Kudos
AGREE easy braze/solder repair. I do not have the skills but my friend does this all the time. The tank is repairable. great video. Also agree in use of JB weld for fuel plug. I love these type of small generators.
I have one of these, we won it in a local CAT dealer raffle, 1989ish. We toted it on jobs to run sawzall or grinder. Made a different handle from the base, as lifting did crack the gas tank. Still have it has not run in years. We JB welded the tank, new handle cured the lifting.
Nice job Jim: I had a small honda generator, I think it was 600 or700 watts, I cleaned it up, cleaned the carb, ran great and had two different people trying to get it from me. Finally sold it for $300. It was also obsolete. I wish I had the model still. Thanks.
silver solder the tank. can be done after filling the tank with water to clean out the gas, or use a big old iron to flow the solder. Very doable.
Definitely braze or tig the tank. No problem. Based on another post you might get a replacement. Great episode. It runs so sweetly it would be a handy little guy to keep around.
A good welder could tig that up and it would be strong as new and hard to see with paint on it
Great Video. Back in the day I was lucky enough to take an Industrial Arts Course in High school which which gave me a great amount of experience in braising. Don't think they teach that anymore. I would not hesitate to make a repair on on the tank because it would be covered. Also there are some new alloy rods on amazon that would make that easily done with a propane or Map gas. Enjoy your very explanatory repairs.
Braising...for meat.
Brazing...for metals.
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Sorry I ran a Steakhouse for fifteen years.
@@dannytreadway4561
Char bro.........
oh wait....😁
A friend had one of these he gave me. He used it to run a 5000 BTU window AC in a camping van. He said it would run for a while, die, then not restart. I cleaned a lot of rust out of the tank, sediment bowl, and float bowl. Runs great, quiet, and it runs the 5k BTU AC in my garage.
Thanks for the O-scope test, too!
I use mine to run small ac in camper and led lights, works great.
You are without a doubt one of the most methodical mechanics I have ever had the pleasure to watch on YT. I repaired small engines for many years and I am very impressed by your through nature and your knowledge.
Preface this next remark with yes I do understand the repair process and that warranty, liability issues create constraints on repair that you are able to entertain, but (oh that pesky but) personally I would have repaired the carb like you did (which surprised me given your previous statement) or would have used a tap and inserted a nipple in to the new threads. And repaired the tank with a stiffing tab brazed in place. You know in the time honored tradition of all arm chair second guessers worldwide :)
Great vid. Amazing skills and tech... thanks sir!
I do believe JB Weld will work sufficiently for that tank. Lots of people have used it on many applications for strength. Even the packaging has many use cases.
It might work if you glued a flat piece over the entire cracked section with JB Weld. Worth a try if you don't have brazing gear.
Had great luck with JB weld I think there's even one that's gas resistant for tanks as a putty
I would eliminate the handle and seal the holes with JB weld or rubber gasket, washer and the old handle screw. With any repair I would not trust using the handle again as the tank is structurally weakened at the point of the crack.
@@Privat2840 perhaps fix a carrying handle to the orange metal case?
TIG weld the tank with silicone-bronze rod - it has a very low melting temperature and will not distort the thin metal.
Page 32:45 it was made without line filter because the line runs down and back up leaving debris gravitates down at low spot where the line valve is. A filter can be inserted to the down path and not the path going up where the beaded section is. Hope this helps.
Actually the in line filter on the up flow to the carb would tend to be the "last resort" and tend to stay relatively clean as most of any debris will end up in the sediment bowl under the tap...easily visually checked and emptied.
As far as the tank, you can clean that area completely, mix up some J B weld and coat some fiberglass cloth wit the JB Weld. Imbed the cloth in layers making sure each one is bubble free. It will be very strong and actually hold up to vibration better than brazing.
I repaired a motorcycle tank this way once. It held up for years until I sold the bike. I used west system epoxy with the fiberglass cloth, not JB weld, but JB weld would work also.
A way to maybe loosen emulsion tubes could be a electronics surface mount reflow setup .. they have a wand with a small tube on the end and you can blow temp controlled hot air out the tube and use that to bring some expansion to that emulsion tube area without flame or damage. Great little tool to have in the lineup.
I was thinking the same thing
It's a really neat idea and I plan to try it! The SMD rework stations have a hot air nozzle that puts out a very concentrated, very well temperature regulated stream of hot air. I believe mine will go as low as 100 degrees C, and I've run it over over 400 degrees C if I remember right. Some of them can really put out some wattage, so you've got a great combination of pin-point application, excellent temperature control, and power. Especially if the pot metal / zinc / aluminum of the carb body expands more with heat than the brass emulsion tube. I will admin that I once removed a set-screw from a knob by shoving a small soldering iron down inside the knob to heat the set-screw. It eventually came out.
Thats a small generator , will agree, they made alot to compete with those Honda tini generators, i still have an old Kawasaki 1000 watt generator, looks very similar, and runs fine, Great video, Saw you on the Kens Small Engine Chat Channel
Could pull out that tube which would have just been pressed in.
Press back in with gasket sealer.
Can fix tank cracks with silver solder and a bit of brass shim
I had one of these it was a craftsman ,same exact model bought it in 1988 to build my first house ,Yes 6.5 amps isn't much .I gave it to a friend my fuel lines rotted out ,other than that it worked fine thanks
id try and weld the crack in the tank. it'd be noticeable but considering the parts availability it would be worth it.
JB Weld works great on these types of gas fittings. I have used it before on chainsaw carbs.
If you have lost power, this unit would charge 35 iPhones for you and all your friends! Really - If you don't have power, something as simple as this can make the world feel somewhat normal - a light, a phone charger, a small TV, and a small space heater - Stuff all Glamper's want. Love it!
I agree, a good tig welder should be able to fix that tank right up for you.
I searched for, and found a Generac 800 watt suitcase generator to charge up my small solar battery after multiple days of cloudy weather. I chose one just slightly under the maximum charge rate the batteries can accept in order to save on fuel. Why run my 3500 W generator if an 800 W generator will do it using much less fuel?
Hello James you can fix that yank with brazing rod and a tin can. Cut a patch piece from an can lid or bottom. Match the shape to the area needing repair plus 1/4 inch.use a MAP gas torch and braze the patch to the tank. It will give you a stronger and more flexible repair than tig or might welding. Less likely to Crack along side the weld in the HAZ area. Even regular plumbers solder and lap joint will work. Be sure to remove any surface coating (galvanizing if any) on tank surface prior to brazing or soldering. Be sure to vent tank properly properly prior to repair.
Cheap and relatively easy to do.
The tank can be repaired! Great video Thanks!! 👍👍
Dido on the Brazing. just fill the tank with soapy water but leave enough gap so the heated area won't get quenched and if that area flashes the expansion has a way to escape. I've done this on hundreds of all types of fuel tanks with long lasting repair. Use the right size tip on you Oxy/Ac rig is important and heat the area first to burn off any remaining solvents. A 3/32 brazing rod flux coated should do the trick. If you are worried about the structure, you can always add a washer after first pass and Braze the washer over the repair for extra support. I would not recommend silver solder because I have not had much luck with long time use [but that is my opinion] but others may have had better results.
I have the same generator for over 30 years (1986 aprox.) is my little baby,same as a 24years Honda EX4500S. Both works excellent.
Will try and find something this side of the pond to help with the repair of your GENERAC G1000.
Wayne & Nina.
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Using a "wheel from a Storm Responder generator" is an interesting choice for providing perspective as to relative size. I would have chosen something a little more widely known, like a headlight bezel from a 1935 Duesenberg SSJ.
🤣Great video, BTW.
any Duesenberg headlight bezel is worth more than the entire generator !
Repairing that tank is pretty straightforward. Just one bend on a piece of sheet metal, some gas-safe RTV, and some rivets. Of course, I am a sheet metal worker so it's easy for me.
Some of my customers complain saying, "but only takes that Condon guy an hour". Ya putting a cramp in me style my man.. cheers, K
Yep, braze the tank. I have done it in the past successfully. Just be sure all gas vapors are out. I have blown them out and left them air for several days. then, flood it with nitrogen or some other non-flammable gas. That should do it. Enjoyed the video as always.
Neat! I’ve never seen such a small genny! Would be great if all you needed was to keep the sump pump and/or the boiler going for a while. Hope you can find a parts unit, thanks for another great video James!
Yes!
I have one of these. That little Kawasaki runs like a watch. I purchased it decades ago from Home Club (how many decades have they been gone?). It was the store's but stopped running so they sold it to me for $25. I popped the bowl off and pulled out a wad of lint from the bottom of the main jet. The only other thing I have done to it was replace the MOV on the end of the generator module. The thing is quiet, fuel thrifty and is enough to run my folk's gas fireplace, TV, and lights when their power goes out. It is a great little unit. It won't start appliances, but they're warm and taken care of for the duration. Braze the tank or put a boat tank fitting in the line (I do that to all my units anyway). There are also some boat fuel tank epoxy products available to coat the tank. That shouldn't be much of a problem at all to fix adequately. I run a good strong dose of carb cleaner thru it every once in a while, then run the gas out of the system. It works every time.
Many have suggested to braise the tank. I don't think it would be edible.😉 You might try brazing it though.😁
Excellent point!
That’s cute! I’d never seen a Generac branded miniature generator. Back in the late 70’s I bought a little Kohler similar to that Generac. The Kohjer is a Japanese built 800 w / 1000 peak 4 cycle machine. I still have the Kohler in it’s original factory carton.
James, that cracked tank will be an easy repair if you know someone in your area who has the equipment and knowledge/skill to braze it. Clean the gasoline out of the tank thoroughly, and that will be a very easy repair. If you can't find anyone in your area or in your circle of friends, I could probably do it for you.
I spend hours watching your videos and enjoy doing so. If I had the tank I could repair it for you no problem. Thanks for taking the time to make these very good videos and sharing your knowledge
Some years ago the inlet port on the diesel filter for my John Deere tractor came loose, as in disconnected. I can get the complete filter housing assembly, but wanted a quick fix to complete mowing the lawn. I used Marine JB Weld to epoxy the inlet port back in the housing. This was 6+ years ago. I love a temporary fix which holds up. I expect your fix should hold up. Sad about the tank. Perhaps this can be brazed or hard soldered if you cannot find a used one.
The unit runs terrific, other than the fuel issue. Well done.
Dave.
James that fuel line would solder. A good solder will seal that line. The tank will braze. James you should look at welders and soldering equipment. Great Job
Taryl fixes all had a generator that was a small maybe 25cc two stroke motor with a little baby generator on it. Was the cutest little thing i ever did see lol. It was old but he got it workin!
Flush the tank, purge the tank, and braze or Weld it. Rubber Plug or Cork it, and air test it. Soap and water...
"Everything's possible, but not everything is profitable."
I'm extremely impressed by your skills. Nice videos.
What an enjoyable channel and brilliant problem solving and restoration. SUBSCRIBED ✅️
Thank you for the video. I own a small generator made by Kawasaki. Only 750 and runs for about 4 hours on one tank of fuel. One power outage I saved a side of beef defrosting in a chest freezer with it. Worked well till the owner could find a larger generator to power his well / freezer and part of his house. Hope you can find parts for this.
Nice work. JB weld is your friend, well, mine anyway. Shame the tank was tango uniform, but repairable.
Well done James, such a pity you can't win them all. Thanks for sharing.
I have soldered gas tanks with acid core solder before with success. Make sure tank is clean where you are going to solder with wire brush, then tin the area with acid core solder and then solder it. Heat an iron with gas torch , then use it on tank. That way you can repair it safely.
Most old carbs didn't have anything to pull the needle open. I think this really became a necessity with E10 fuel. I have had problems with old John Deere carbs sticking the needle shut after sitting a couple weeks. Usually a couple light taps with a small hammer gets it flowing. They have no ridge to even add a spring.
I would think that it could be brazed or welded as someone already said. What do you have to lose....other than money?
Hi I have the same one had the same issues cleaned the carb, works really well.
You should look into a product called Kream or red coat. it allows you to seal multiple tanks but it's a little bit of work and as far as the leaking carburetor Inlet goes, they are just pressed in and while what you did worked. You should have just used pliers to remove it, then use JB Weld to coat the outer surface and push it back into place.
I've been told that this was sometimes referred to as a "bread bin" generator, presumably because it looks like a small bread bin! and they were pretty scarce when they were new. It would be interesting to know if any more turn up anywhere, or how many still survive to this day.
I wonder if Taryl might have come across one in the past. He seems to get a lot of oddball machines through his shop.
It is definitely about the same size as a bread bin. I don’t see them often, but they are still out there.
I’ve got one in Australia. Branded a Dunlite G750. Runs perfectly, but unfortunately the tank is rusty.
U
Nice job, Thanks James
Nice little compact unit & I agree with the last comment, I would braze or solder the gas tank.
I thought that plug number sounded familiar and sure enough it was the same plug used on my 1948 Harley Davidson Panhead
That's a cool little generator, too bad about the tank, nice work bringing it back to life though!
Nice catch on the ignition switch. I would think you could braze or silver soldier the crack in the gas tank?
Good going, you were so close, I'll bet something will come along.
There have been suggestions of welding, brazing and of JB Weld gluing. Let's at first check what material the tank is. If it is steel, there are plenty of capable people welding or brazing it. If it is aluminum, then the skills (and also welding equipment) are less abundant. We are presumably dealing with quite thin sheet metal. If I saw correctly, the crack was on an area that had be formed to a non-flat shape ( a shoulder ), causing conditions for stress cracking. Best luck!
Great work James yet again. hopefully someone out there in youtube land may have a parts machine to get this one completed- seems far too good to scrap. Happy new year.
You could steam clean out the tank and get rid of all the fuel vapour and braze the handle insert back in the tank the braze(if a good flux is used) will flow into the crack and make for a good repair..i have done this on many fuel tanks to repair them in the past..old school repair im a plant mechanic from back in the 80's..now getting on for 60 years old but still like to do the repairs.
Very interesting one James. Kinda like that little toy!
It’s so CUUUUTE! 😂👍
I look forward to each and every video you make. Thank you for your great content.
I ran into a similar issue on a carb for a Troy Bilt tiller that I was working on that I had no way to determine the model number on. I used blue thread locker on it, and it worked flawlessly. It is not leaking at all. I did the repair about three months ago, and have yet to have any issues.
nice little gen. hope you find the carb.
I'd JB Weld a square plate over the handle bolt holds (both sides too). The spread load the plate offered would both seal the leak and improve the strength of the handle fixings.
33:00 I'm always for keeping old parts that are in good shape and don't need replacing, but I would definitely make an exception for that fuel line. That fuel line is probably not ethanol rated. Having those fuel lines harden and crack with fuel in the tank is a recipe for a fire.
Eliminate the stock handle and run a strap around the entire generator with a couple rivets to hold it in place. JB Weld the leaks and be done with it, no more stress on tank or the nut pulling the rope to start it...Thanks for your time!
Good fix. Other than the fuel tank & carby, it works great. Strong little engine.
James, about 6 years ago, while driving the Al/Can highway from Alaska to the lower 48, I had to swerve to avoid something in the road. I pulled aside, trotted back to remove the obstruction and I'm pretty sure it was this exact same model of generator that had apparently fallen off of someone's vehicle. It was pretty well destroyed from it's tumble down the roadway so I set it at the base of the next nearest signpost. I suppose there is hope that another might be found to replace your missing/damaged bits. Cheers!
Might still be by the roadside in Alaska, but it is a long drive to find out.
I honestly have one sitting in my backyard if you need parts I bought a 13KW generator so that just sits in my scrap pile I believe the spark plug wire was shot that’s why I said nope and thrown it aside it’s got all 3 parts you want
Don't you just love those new gas can spouts, have that crazy safety in them. Makes it very hard to fill things. Unlike the cans of old....... 🤣
I take a big pry bar and put the straight end in the gas can and hit with a hammer knocks that plastic down into the can. The insert has a screen that will not let gas in quick at all. Government regulations are out of hand. Use a zip tie to hold the button in so it will flow in without fighting the spring action that makes it hard to hold the button in.
@@hcox1111 haha, that could work too. new adaptation on get a bigger hammer!
Nice small generator. It's a pity with crack in the tank; but it should be an easy fix with a little brazing.Thanks for a lot of good and instructive videos, and Happy New Year to you and yours.