Good to see you back again. Just picked up the felpro rear matn seal you said to get today for my 861. I guess I'm Going to have to do the same thing to my dbl clutch pedal. I did your trick to the fuel tank shut off valve. When I removed the brass shaft there was no rubber o ring inside the valve. Getting as many parts as I can before I split the tractor. Thanks for taking the time to make mine and others lives easier. Warren in vermont
Hey CHM, thanks for posting so many great videos and adjusting a clutch is something everyone should know how to do. My 1955 640 (or 641) has been working fine lately except she just developed a healthy oil leak behind the coil. I anticipated the worse however, it turned out to be coming from a rubber hose plug inserted in a drilled hole in the block. It only leaks when running and I'm not sure what to do to fix. I have a clear photo and would like to send it if needed, was not able to post. Many thanks. TN Rob
You can send me a picture on chickenhousemechanic@gmail.com only rubber plugs behind the coil sound be the pushrod cover bolt grommets. There's 3 of them. The block has some small core plugs in it that cover camshaft oiling holes which are under pressure when running.
I have a 64 Ford 4000 and when the pedal is at a 9 inch height ,I had lift my leg so high a had to kind of stand up...if I lower the pedal to a workable height , there isn't enough throw/travel in the pedal to disengage the clutch before it bottoms out....this tractor is for guys with very short legs...i had to build a riser (block of wood) under the seat just so I could operate it.
I've not had that problem. I'm 6 foot with long legs. Granted, you do have to lift your leg kinda high. On my 861 the top of the pedal is worn smooth because of it. I kind of wonder if the aftermarket clutches are the cause. The clutch I put in the 4000 is a NOS Spicer clutch. No idea what is in the 861 since it was changed before I bought it. I can't get it adjusted properly for anything. The pivot pin is worn on it too though.
My harmonic balancer has a dot on each gear that apparently times the gears to themselves. ( I did not tear the balancer apart because it seemed in great shape. ) There is a dash mark on the timed gear about 30 degrees from the timing dots I first mentioned. Is this dash mark the timing mark that matches to the crank(which has a dot)? My gut says yes. The offset weights seem to be timed to the pistons up and down motions. I hope you can interpret my meandering description, and advise as best you can.
These engines in these tractors do not have a harmonic balancer just a crank pulley. As for the engine timing gears check out this video about 10 minutes in to see the timing marks on the gears. ua-cam.com/video/XCwHwKde82Y/v-deo.html
Im working on an 841 diesel 1958. My dipstick tube was destroyed trying to remove it( previous owner mangled it in another overhaul. I cant seem to find one. Where did you get yours? Your very entertaining, educational, and maticlous. Thanks for the trip!
I got a used one off ebay. They pop up pretty often on there. When I installed the new one I put some loctite around the top to secure it in place so I didn't have to hammer it as hard to make it stay in place
Hi I’m working on a 172 Diesel out of an old air compressor. I’m just wondering where you got your Engine rebuild parts from. Having some trouble sourcing parts.
I have a possibly 1956 ford diesel tractor. I’m hoping you see this and can help me out. The numbers on the engine block are: B8NN 6015B. And the only numbers I can read behind the starter are 2120. 6. Is this enough to identify what it is.
Hard to say since those numbers aren't adding up. A diesel wasn't available in 1956. The engine number should be a B9NN-6015B to be a diesel engine. That would be an early 172ci engine vs the 6015J. The 2120 could be a serial number but if it's the model number than that would be a 2000 model tractor which puts it as a 1963 or 1964 but with the smaller 144ci diesel engine or 134ci gas engine.
I used ppg shopline primers and iron gaurd enamel from New holland for the colors mixed with hardener and thinner. It was sprayed using an Iwata lph-400 extreme.
What is the true name of the selector cam the quadrant lever is bolted too. I need to order a new one for my ford 2000 tractor. I can't find what it is called.
Which lever are you talking about? I hear quadrant and I think lift, but since this is a clutch video, I just want to verify what lever you are talking about.
There is a nut inside the transmission that holds the pin on. However, getting to that nut is easier said than done. You might be able to come up with a bent wrench or something to loosen it but the gear shafts are really close to it. So to make it easier to remove, you'd have to pull transmission apart, which is no easy task if the tractor is still together. If yours is not broken and just worn, I'd recommend welding it up and filling it down to size. That's what I did even though transmission was apart.
@@ford9000puller that's what I figured. Old guy I bought it from had everything overhauled then set the clutch for transmission only for shows and plowing - never really used the pto until I bought it.
I used 2 bushings from McMaster-Carr since 1 isn't long enough. The 2nd just has to be cut down to size and a hole drilled in one for the grease fitting. The bushings I used are #9368T81. Factory part# is NDA7508A.
@@chickenhousemechanicFrom what I can tell, the first part number for mine should be NDA7526A. My old bushing shows different sizes to what you recommended to use. Any idea if there would be a difference?
@triplewlivestock7422 is your tractor a 4 or 5 speed? Also depending on where the pedal pivot is depends on the bushing. Some of the early hundred series tractors had a setup similar to an 8n and those used a different bushing.
@triplewlivestock7422 I looked back at my parts list and I believe I gave you the part number for the cross shaft that the fork rides on. I have the clutch pedal bushing listed as 9368T79 from McMaster-Carr. That bushing is for a 7/8" shaft. The first number I gave you was for a 1" shaft. This bushing should be the replacement for the NDA7526A. That is if you have the 5 speed transmission. You can tell by the shifter. If the shifter goes up and down and twists to shift it's a 5 speed. A 4 speed is similar to a car shifter. A 4 speed pedal would use the 8N708B bushing which is readily available from tractor part stores. I don't believe the 5 speed bushing is available from them anymore so you have to use the one from McMaster-Carr.
You are still doing wonderful work! I haven't checked in in a while but I'm always glad when I do. Immaculate restoration! Very Well Done!
Good to see you back again. Just picked up the felpro rear matn seal you said to get today for my 861. I guess I'm
Going to have to do the same thing to my dbl clutch pedal. I did your trick to the fuel tank shut off valve. When I removed the brass shaft there was no rubber o ring inside the valve. Getting as many parts as I can before I split the tractor. Thanks for taking the time to make mine and others lives easier. Warren in vermont
Thanks for the video. My 851 Powermaster’s clutch definitely need to be adjusted.
Hey CHM, thanks for posting so many great videos and adjusting a clutch is something everyone should know how to do.
My 1955 640 (or 641) has been working fine lately except she just developed a healthy oil leak behind the coil. I anticipated the worse however, it turned out to be coming from a rubber hose plug inserted in a drilled hole in the block. It only leaks when running and I'm not sure what to do to fix. I have a clear photo and would like to send it if needed, was not able to post.
Many thanks.
TN Rob
You can send me a picture on chickenhousemechanic@gmail.com only rubber plugs behind the coil sound be the pushrod cover bolt grommets. There's 3 of them. The block has some small core plugs in it that cover camshaft oiling holes which are under pressure when running.
Sorry for the miss understanding. I'm talking about the balancer located under the crank inside the oil pan.
Ok gotcha, Ive got a video on that also. Heres the link for it. I install the balancer at 19 minutes in. ua-cam.com/video/4hOFM8nLdzo/v-deo.html
I have a 64 Ford 4000 and when the pedal is at a 9 inch height ,I had lift my leg so high a had to kind of stand up...if I lower the pedal to a workable height , there isn't enough throw/travel in the pedal to disengage the clutch before it bottoms out....this tractor is for guys with very short legs...i had to build a riser (block of wood) under the seat just so I could operate it.
I've not had that problem. I'm 6 foot with long legs. Granted, you do have to lift your leg kinda high. On my 861 the top of the pedal is worn smooth because of it. I kind of wonder if the aftermarket clutches are the cause. The clutch I put in the 4000 is a NOS Spicer clutch. No idea what is in the 861 since it was changed before I bought it. I can't get it adjusted properly for anything. The pivot pin is worn on it too though.
My harmonic balancer has a dot on each gear that apparently times the gears to themselves. ( I did not tear the balancer apart because it seemed in great shape. )
There is a dash mark on the timed gear about 30 degrees from the timing dots I first mentioned.
Is this dash mark the timing mark that matches to the crank(which has a dot)? My gut says yes.
The offset weights seem to be timed to the pistons up and down motions.
I hope you can interpret my meandering description, and advise as best you can.
These engines in these tractors do not have a harmonic balancer just a crank pulley. As for the engine timing gears check out this video about 10 minutes in to see the timing marks on the gears. ua-cam.com/video/XCwHwKde82Y/v-deo.html
Im working on an 841 diesel 1958. My dipstick tube was destroyed trying to remove it( previous owner mangled it in another overhaul.
I cant seem to find one. Where did you get yours?
Your very entertaining, educational, and maticlous. Thanks for the trip!
I got a used one off ebay. They pop up pretty often on there. When I installed the new one I put some loctite around the top to secure it in place so I didn't have to hammer it as hard to make it stay in place
Hi I’m working on a 172 Diesel out of an old air compressor. I’m just wondering where you got your Engine rebuild parts from. Having some trouble sourcing parts.
I got a kit from all state ag parts. It was a reliance kit. Some parts were sourced elsewhere but mist came from all state ag.
Satishmulge🎉
I have a possibly 1956 ford diesel tractor. I’m hoping you see this and can help me out. The numbers on the engine block are: B8NN 6015B. And the only numbers I can read behind the starter are 2120. 6. Is this enough to identify what it is.
Hard to say since those numbers aren't adding up. A diesel wasn't available in 1956. The engine number should be a B9NN-6015B to be a diesel engine. That would be an early 172ci engine vs the 6015J. The 2120 could be a serial number but if it's the model number than that would be a 2000 model tractor which puts it as a 1963 or 1964 but with the smaller 144ci diesel engine or 134ci gas engine.
What paint do you use ? Do you use a paint gun or are you using spray cans?
I used ppg shopline primers and iron gaurd enamel from New holland for the colors mixed with hardener and thinner. It was sprayed using an Iwata lph-400 extreme.
What is the true name of the selector cam the quadrant lever is bolted too. I need to order a new one for my ford 2000 tractor. I can't find what it is called.
Which lever are you talking about? I hear quadrant and I think lift, but since this is a clutch video, I just want to verify what lever you are talking about.
I would like to know how to replace the pedal hinge pin, the peg you put grease on before you slid the pedal on
There is a nut inside the transmission that holds the pin on. However, getting to that nut is easier said than done. You might be able to come up with a bent wrench or something to loosen it but the gear shafts are really close to it. So to make it easier to remove, you'd have to pull transmission apart, which is no easy task if the tractor is still together. If yours is not broken and just worn, I'd recommend welding it up and filling it down to size. That's what I did even though transmission was apart.
Thank you very much, 😅
The dimensions in the manual weren't quite right for my 861. Had to just adjust the clevis until the double clutch worked.
As the ground drive and pto clutches wear separately the settings will change the measurements are pretty much only good for a brand new clutch
@@ford9000puller that's what I figured. Old guy I bought it from had everything overhauled then set the clutch for transmission only for shows and plowing - never really used the pto until I bought it.
Do you know where I might be able to find a bushing for a Ford 800 clutch petal?
I used 2 bushings from McMaster-Carr since 1 isn't long enough. The 2nd just has to be cut down to size and a hole drilled in one for the grease fitting. The bushings I used are #9368T81. Factory part# is NDA7508A.
@@chickenhousemechanicFrom what I can tell, the first part number for mine should be NDA7526A. My old bushing shows different sizes to what you recommended to use. Any idea if there would be a difference?
@triplewlivestock7422 is your tractor a 4 or 5 speed? Also depending on where the pedal pivot is depends on the bushing. Some of the early hundred series tractors had a setup similar to an 8n and those used a different bushing.
@@chickenhousemechanic To my knowledge it is a 1955 850 with a 5 speed. I’ve looked at 8n bushings and they don’t look like they would work either.
@triplewlivestock7422 I looked back at my parts list and I believe I gave you the part number for the cross shaft that the fork rides on. I have the clutch pedal bushing listed as 9368T79 from McMaster-Carr. That bushing is for a 7/8" shaft. The first number I gave you was for a 1" shaft. This bushing should be the replacement for the NDA7526A. That is if you have the 5 speed transmission. You can tell by the shifter. If the shifter goes up and down and twists to shift it's a 5 speed. A 4 speed is similar to a car shifter. A 4 speed pedal would use the 8N708B bushing which is readily available from tractor part stores. I don't believe the 5 speed bushing is available from them anymore so you have to use the one from McMaster-Carr.
Is that the same on a 68 ford 2000
No, those model tractors, 65-75, are completely different.