Re-engineering 1984 35' Henriques Maine Coaster "Toro" for speed and efficiency
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- Опубліковано 20 гру 2019
- November- December 2019 I did a major refit on the bottom of my 1984 35 Henriques Maine coaster, powered with @CumminsEngines 5.9l QSB 425hp, 1.5:1 twin disk 502 gear, 1.75" shaft, acme 24x20 propellor. Before performance numbers were appx 17 knots cruise @ 2250 rpm @14.7-15.1gph 85% load. After performance numbers are appx 22 knots cruise @2250 rpm @15.1-15.5gph 80% load.
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turned out great👍🏻
Since this video, we changed wheels to a new 23x20 acme 3 blade nibral wheel and saw signifancant performance gains over the 24x20 4 blade nibral acme wheel. After the bottom settled in a little and wasnt a fresh brand new bottom, with the 4 blade wheel our numbers were around 19.5 knots cruise 15.5 gallons per hour at 2350 rpm 80-85% load with the motor being a little bit overwheeled and only seeing about 2500 rpm as our maximum rpms. With the new 3 blade wheel, we see 2350 rpm still being appx 20 knots of speed at around 14.2gph and around a 70 percent load. Our top end wot with the new wheel is 24.5 knots at 25.2 gallons per hour at 2780rpm (cummins says max turns should reach limiter at 3000 rpm).
With the bottom being as efficient as possible, and having what I feel is the correct propellor, my next move to get those last 200 turns will be to do some engineering with the motor. On this 430 hp Cummins qsb 5.9 we have about 3000 hours. Our aftercooler needs dipped and cleaned badly. So that's in the process of being done now. Also our walker airsep system is older and the filter is dirty. Rather than clean the filter again, I am going to put a new filter on and possibly change the induction of the air so that the motor is not pulling hot air from the engine compartment and make it so that the motor is pulling cold air from the outside. By cleaning making it easier for my motor to get clean, cooler air with my airsep and by cleaning my aftercooler, I should get the horsepower gains needed to get the extra 200 turns I need out of my propellor. If not, I will flash the motor to get it to where it needs to be.
That boat ain’t gonna back up for shit
I would have thought, before making those below hull alterations at the prop, I would have changed the propeller first, cleaned and repainted the bottom as you did, before altering the stern end of the keel below the rudder. That rudder looked very odd, that square hole, looked like a grab handle, which, I think, would have a negative impact on what you are looking for. Anyway good luck and hopefully, everything is working out, as well as you expect.
Hi Jim, I didn't want to change the prop prior to making such drastic changes to the hull. The hole in the rudder is common on commercial boats and is designed so that the driveshaft can be removed without having to remove the rudder.
how did you bend that fir spray rail to mount? did you have to steam it onsite?
No we glued the bow section on then would wait for the glue to dry then pull a few more feet, glue and screw that down, then wait to dry, then repeat process until the whole thing was glued and screwed on. Then ran fillet, sanded, and glassed over.
What did you use to fill in the ducer pockets
I used spray foam then smoothed it over and ran a layer of fiberglass with west system