5 Rules on Custom Hat Embroidery
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- In todays video, I am giving you 5 important rules when embroidering hats. Below is the entire show notes with full details. If you have any questions or comments, leave them down below so we can all learn from each other. Thank you for stopping by and don’t forget to subscribe.
The 5 Rules in Hat Embroidery:
Rule #1: Choose the correct needle-
the most common sizes are 75/11 and 80/11
Amazon essentials: www.amazon.com/shop/romerothr...
Allstitch: allstitch.com/?ref=RomeroThreads
Rule #2: Digitize for Hats
Rule #3: Hooping
www.hooptechproducts.com/prod...
Rule #4: Avoid over complex details
Rule #5: Control your speed
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Ball Point Needles: amzn.to/3Yg3y3h
Graphic Alignment Ruler: amzn.to/3JUQ60f
Embroiderer's Helper Placement Tool: amzn.to/3YEIRgS
Fiskars Rotary Cutter, Titanium: amzn.to/3I8aFFd
Tide Pen: amzn.to/3Ialpmj
FlexFit Hat: amzn.to/3YDkqk5
Puffy Foam 3mm: amzn.to/3RNzd9u
L-Style Towa Bobbin Tension Gauge: amzn.to/3YjUDO5
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Yupoong 1501 Heavy Weight Cuffed Knit Cap
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AllStitch (everything you need for embroidery)
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Groz Beckert Titanium Coated Embroidery Machine Needles (size 80 / 12)
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Sulky Of America 12 Color 3mm Puffy Foam Assortment, 6" by 9"
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Gingher 4'' Curved Embroidery Scissors (best of the best)
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Fiskars Curved Craft Scissors, 4 Inch
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Embroiderer's Helper - Template Aid - Placement Tool
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Towa Sewing L-Style Thread Bobbin Case Tension Gauge TM-1
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Mini screw driver case:
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Dritz 710 Mark-B-Gone Marking Pen Combo Pack, Blue & White
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Duckbill Scissor
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Odif USA 505 Spray and Fix Temporary Fabric Adhesive 12.4oz
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Avery Shipping Address Labels, Inkjet Printers, 50 Labels, Half Sheet Labels, Permanent Adhesive, TrueBlock (8126)
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DYMO Digital Postal Scale/Shipping Scale, 10-Pound
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Great tutorial!!! Thank you so much.
Bless you family! The best in compassion and professional 🎊🎊
Great Video, thank you the information and helpful tips !
Thanks!
Another great video, thanks for always leaving those links in the description for things like foam, blanks, vendors etc. Super helpful
This is such a helpful video.
You have an amazing hooping hooping device. My Melco machine didn’t come with the thing that holds the hat taut. Wow! Thanks for the tips!
Yes, the hoop is an accessory called Gen2 from hooptech. Way better than the original ones that come with the machine.
@@RomeroThreads Many thanks!!
Excellent educational video. Thank you for the thoughtful quality and attention to detail in explanation.
Thank you for the comment.
Thank
You!
So glad I found your account. Awesome instructional videos! What needle do you recommend for foam trucker hats? Thank you!
Thank you so much ❤ Wery good and nice 📹
Goodvideo thanks
Amazing information I've got my embroidery machine to do mostly has so I can wait till but that's to good use👍🏿🥳🧢
Thanks for the comment. Hope all is well Levite.
thank u for such a wonderful video... can u plz tell what type and what weight thread u suggest? will it be different with different needles?
That hat is 🔥 🔥 🔥
Thanks!!
very good video !!! Could you show your cap parameters please?
I love your videos sir. Just purchased a 1501 and just waiting for it to ship. Your videos really help. Thank you.
Hello sir. Quick question. When you got your 1501, did it come with the hat hoop and 2 hat rings. The 2 hat rings means that you can have 1 hat on the machine while you prep the second hat? Sorry, this is all new to me. I'm still waiting for my 1501 to ship and I just want to know if I have to buy another hat hoop. Thank you for your time
Hello, yes, it should come with 2 hat rings. And yes, its very necessary to have 2 hoops and prep the next hat when in production mode. Any questions, let me know, thanks.
@@RomeroThreads so I'm a little confuse between the hat rings and hoops. Should I buy an extra hat hoop or am I good with the accessories I'm getting with the machine?
You should be good with what you have. I use a different hat hoop station thats separate from the standard hoops. But you should be good with whats being sent. Practice and practice with whats included and with time you'll see what you need.
@@RomeroThreads solid. Thanks for the reply sir.
Do you need special digitizing just for the puff??
Hi! What is the purpose of the heat on the hat?
What are the FFG and R stand for? Whats the rule of thumb on the size of the design for a hat
Gracias que bueno, podrías hablar como hacer las letras en chroma lux para las gorras pkrfavor
Who is your best digitizer for Puff designs.??? and Where do you purchase your puff??
The best 3D puff digitizer service is Vitor. And I purchase my dense puff foam at Gunold. Or Allstitch if you don’t have a Gunold account.
www.vitordigitizing.net
Nice tips I have a single needle
Where do you get your needles?
Looks awesome. Why did you use the heat gun?
Thanks. I use the heat gun to tighten up the foam and smooth out any foam that might be sticking out.
@@RomeroThreadsThanks again. You do great work.
I purchased this hat hoop after seeing your videos thinking it would help with the needle breakage from not getting the cap snugged down enough to get rid of the bounce. I have a customer that likes the Richardson 112 snap mesh back trucker caps and his design sewn to left of midline. I still cannot seem to get it pulled down snug enough to fit. Any suggestions? And do you digitize for customers? Love you videos!
I would say make sure you're using sharp titanium needles and the are facing correctly. And also make sure the backing is nice and flat. Usually the side should be easier to stitch. Next maybe double check the design and ensure it's not too dense. Maybe any of these recommendations may help.
@@RomeroThreads I’m using sharp titanium needles. I just can’t seem to get the cap snugged down enough to get rid of the bounce. Do you do custom digitizing? And if so how do I contact you to send you what I need digitized? Thanks for your reply.
We have a real problem with heavy buckram hats on our Melco EMT- 10 4t. we use 80/12 needles but break needles a lot just on the hat style. We are now running with no backing but still get breaks. We are at our end, any suggestions.
It all depends where the breaks are coming from. Sometimes the corners of satin stitches can be a problem. Make sure you have short stitches set for any tight satin stitch angles. Maybe a certain area of the design is too tight (density wise) or many stitches on top of stitches.
Another on point video! You are such a a great teacher! What size foam did you use 3mm? I like the way your supplies are organized!
Thank you very much. Yes, I always use 3mm on all my puff.
@@RomeroThreads have you every doubled up on your foam to create more density… if so would you still use the 80/12. Can you still use the same digitized design or would the digitizer need to know that you will use layered foam?
Yes, Ive double up. You can still use the design as long as it is 3D foam ready. You should be fine with 80 needle. Once you start stacking too thick, you might have to adjust the presser foot. I feel that 3mm is always a good thickness for us.
Got a detailed multi color design I am embroidering on a dad hat. Having the hardest time keeping my black outline stitch in registration. its been off registration every time I embroider on a dad hat. Making sure to use my clips and keeping the hat tight but still keep running into issues. The embroidery looks in registration when I do it on a flat stabilizer. Any insight?
I use to have trouble with dad hats w/ the regular hoops, I had to change and use the Gen2. It grips the hats way tighter. Maybe the only thing I can think of is make sure your using 2 pieces of tearaway (maybe 3).
@@RomeroThreads I see. Using regular hoops now. Haven't tried the Gen2 but might have to pick them up. I have tried 2-3 stabilizers but still the same issues. Will keep working on it, thanks!
Did you have to modify your cap driver? I’m reading some people take off the wings? To make the gen 2 not hit something. I’m getting mine this week. Thanks for your help.
Yes, I took off the left wing since wide designs was hitting the wings (ive had it without 2 wings also, works fine). Thats all Ive had to adjust, easy task.
@@RomeroThreads thanks for your reply. Are you able to use the cap hoops that came with machine without the wings? Or do you have to put it back again? I appreciate it
Im not sure, once I had the Gen2, I don't think I've used the regular hoops again. Its quick to put the wings back if you have to.
@@RomeroThreads thank you so much!!
Is the cap hoop specifically for your Ricoma machine?
No, this is the Hoop Tech Gen2. It works with different machines.
Hii do you know if the gen 2 works for the ricoma em1010
No, its not made for the 1010.
are you still using the hooptech hoop?
Yes, that's the only hoop we use for hats.
How do you add the g2 to my hoops
I just use the the hat hoop option.
What type of hat hooping is this? I have the one that came with my MT-1501 and it is difficult to use and hoop correctly.
The hat hoop is the Gen2 from HoopTech. I never use the regular hat hoop that came w/ my machine. The Gen2 holds it tighter.
@@RomeroThreads so it works with the MT-1501? Where do I purchase it and do you have a code so you get the credit? I really appreciate this because this hoop that came with the machine is giving me the blues!!
Yes it works w/ the MT 1501. I don’t have a code but you can purchase it here.
www.hooptechproducts.com/product/gen-2/
@@RomeroThreads thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge. You are greatly appreciated!!
I’m kind of new to this whole embroidery business and you lost me on the digitizing issue. What is it that you have to do on digitizing for caps that is different for flat embroidery. Hope I’m relating this question clearly.
For 3d puff, its alot more stitches. Usually flats your using less stitches less density. I will go into great detail in 3d puff hats very soon.
@@RomeroThreads looking forward to that
I see your 80/12 says R. But I've also seen 80/12 that says RG. Whats the difference?
RG is a universal needle, R is a little more sharp.
@Romero Threads ok thank very much
What do you mean R or type R on the needles?
Needles have a code. R stands for sharp. RG is universal sharp.
@@RomeroThreads Thank you!!
Why wasn’t the 6 stitched first if you’re doing bottom-up, center-out? And would you start a tatami fill on the bottom of a logo?