The Best Driver For Your First DIY Speaker Build? || Dayton Audio PS95 Point Source Driver Review
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 лип 2018
- The Dayton Audio PS95 might be the best driver for your first DIY build. Here's my review!
👉 FREE Speaker Build Plans - bit.ly/FreeCubePlans
👉PS95 Driver - bit.ly/PS95-8
👉PS95 DIY Speaker Kit - bit.ly/MiniTowerKit
🛠️MY BUILDS WITH THIS DRIVER
DIY Build Videos - • Speaker Builds
🔊PRODUCTS USED/TALKED ABOUT
Dayton 6.5” Classic Sub - bit.ly/DCS165
100W 2.1 Bluetooth Audio Amp - bit.ly/2NV5cm6
OmniMic V2 - bit.ly/OmniMic
DATS V2 - bit.ly/DATSv2
🔗LINKS
Free DIY Speaker Build Plans - bit.ly/KMAkits
KMA T-Shirt - goo.gl/cc5lx9
KMA Website - KMAkits.com
Support On Patreon - goo.gl/cc5lx9
My Speakers - salvageaudio.com
📲FOLLOW
Instagram - / kirbymeetsaudio
Facebook - / kirbymeetsaudio
🎵MUSIC
/ rahno
/ maeson-1
⚙️ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED
Drill - amzn.to/2641yxs
Circular Saw - amzn.to/23iuCfx
Speed Square - amzn.to/23ivhgQ
🛠️TOOLS
Router - amzn.to/23isnJh
Router Table - amzn.to/28NaaHE
Router Adj. - amzn.to/1UUvwuY
Chamfer Bit - amzn.to/1UUvV0w
Mortise Bit - amzn.to/1ZYQ3An
Table Saw - amzn.to/28NdP8o
Miter Saw - amzn.to/1ZYQfQ9
Cordless Drill - amzn.to/2641DRD
Orbital Sander - amzn.to/1UUyU9n
Finishing Sander - amzn.to/1ZYSjrk
🛠️MORE TOOLS
Bar Clamps - amzn.to/28Neoz0
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/28NedUs
3” Forstner Bit - amzn.to/1ZYS8fz
Forstner Bit Set - amzn.to/1Upcayn
Measuring Tape - amzn.to/1UUxpb4
Push Stick Pack - amzn.to/1XwjV8U
Auto Center Punch - amzn.to/2643yG3
Digital Angle Gauge - amzn.to/28Nc0Zb
Combination Square - amzn.to/1XwkhN3
🎥CAMERA GEAR
Camera - amzn.to/1W5Pci8
Wide Lens - amzn.to/28NeQ0j
50mm Lens - amzn.to/1W5PR35
Microphone - amzn.to/1ZYU9II
Big Tripod - amzn.to/1ZYUv23
Flexible Tripod - amzn.to/1UUAwzX
🤙If you have any questions, comment!
I invite you to be a part of this awesome community.
Thank you so much for watching!
-Kirby - Наука та технологія
Thank you, everyone, for watching! Hit that THUMBS UP if you want more videos like this one!
If you're looking for a project using the PS95 check this one here: bit.ly/MiniTowerKit
I bought this exact speaker for restoring a iPod dock from a company called Vers and they are amazing! I gave a new life to the dock.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching!
Whoa.
Bro did you just become like a filmmaker? That quality boost
Haha THANKS! I'm trying to add some of the production elements from my build videos into the rest of my work. It's been fun! Thanks for watching!
Oh my gosh i love the new intro! Keep up the good work love your channel!🙂
Absolutely LOVE the point source drivers.
You and me both!
That's funny just bougth this speaker two weeks ago for my own portable bluetooth speaker. Great sound quality for the price!
Nice! Glad you agree. Some pretty great drivers here. Thanks for watching!
What amp and cabinet did You use?
You're killing it lately, Kirby! Keep it up!
Thank you! Will do! Keep watchin
Great intro! I love your lighting effects!
Great video man. Answered every question before I even asked.
Awesome! All your videos are great.
I feel like this is not a diy more like a tutorial because you’ve done almost all the thinking about the electronics great video either way!
You da man, man! Thank you!
I have to agree, the PS95 is pretty good for the beginner. I've built a pair of Classix II, man they are beastly. I plan to build some smaller speakers with this driver, as a gift
That's awesome! Thanks for watching!
Another great beginner speaker is the Tang Band W3-881 SJF. super easy to work with, and to build around it.
Very nice vid as always. Your content is amazing :D I would love to see a Bluetooth build that has a rechargeable battery (specifically the components/how to wire it up). Keep it up Kirby.
Excellent looking speaker....
Thanks for the info bro I’m a fan 👍🏻
Thanks for watching Luis!
Awesome video, I wish they made these more available in Canada.
Your videos are so good and helpfull🤘🔥
Thanks for watching Felix!
Really cool video!! Super useful! Very inspirational for someone considering their own first build :)
Love the new intros :) I guess the image quality is a bit better, despite the editing, you are killing it and you latest videos were super interesting. I'm thinking of getting one of your speaker kits and make some cool speakers from scratch. I might send you an email in a couple months and ask a few questions :) Also, nice new look! New glasses and haircut? Edit: Ahah, I just when down on your videos list to see what was "different" and I realized you are not with the cap on this one. We get to see your hair. Sorry, just silly comments :D
Thank you! Yes! Shoot me an email and I'd love to design a custom system for you. I'm sure you could come up with some awesome enclosures for them. Haha yeah! I think you're not the only one thrown off by seeing my hair. Thanks again for watching!
Great work!
Thanks for watching Nic!
Excellent
Great new Logo!!!
Thank you Stephen!
Great intro! I like the idea of not using a crossover, but it doesn't make building a presentable enclosure any easier.
Can confirm that these drivers are impressive despite their size! I do not exactly have a ballroom, but my diy line array speakers with 12 of these in each speaker cabinet fill at least my living room which is about 40 square meters with a loud and well-balanced sound. Even if they roll off at 100hz, the bass is still impressive even without me using my sub.
Missing ur speaker building video ..it's so satisfying..👌
More coming soon!
Kirby Meets Audio awesome
Great Videos! Thank you! I just wanted to share with you what I use to attach speakers to cabinets. I use brass threaded bolts into threaded brass wood inserts to secure the drivers to the cabinet. I then torque each brass bolt to exactly 10 inch pounds of pressure with my Wheeler Accurizing torque wrench screwdriver available on Amazon for 39.69. When there is equal fastener holding pressure on the driver, the speaker performs as a true wheel rim on a car.....smooth/better performance/imaging! Music likes brass. Ebony also likes music....oboe-clarinet. I place 3 or 4 Ebony or Macassar Ebony triangles under my speakers to decouple the cabinet from the desk/stand or floor. The base of each Ebony or Macassar Ebony triangle is one and a half inch. Best wishes to you, and again thanks for your ideas!
Your hair though. I like it. Science!
Keep up the good work!
FREE THE HAIR! Thanks for watching!
what are you gay
@@odincoulombe706 Why? You looking for a date? This isn't the place for that.
Nice build. What just occurred to me is what fun (ok, geek fun) it would be to design a miniature flown line array out of multiple cabinets on a bracket...for say a warehouse/loft kind of living space. I didn't check out the angle dispersion, but I'd suspect that as it gets higher it would get pretty beamy--not ordinarily desirable, but for a stacked multi-angle vertical array, flown, that would be an ideal characteristic. Couple it with a sub on a delay, and it would be hilarious, if nothing else, to see a mini concert array like that. It would probably kick up a pretty ferocious amount of volume (and total waste of money), but geek fun, nevertheless
Great video
Looking forward to seeing that enclosure with the ps95 and subwoof when is that coming out?
Awesome 👌
Thanks for watching David!
Great video for a starter, like myself.
Question for you or the group...I recently found a 1938 Philco chairside radio at an antique shop. It's basically a coffee table with a built in AM and shortwave radio. Speaker was trashed, and it needs to have a lot of components changed, and I wasn't in the mood to rebuild an AM radio at the moment, so I thought I'd pull everything out and try to make a bluetooth speaker.
I recently picked up a Dayton KAB-250v3 2x50 amp with bluetooth built in. Installed it with a couple of drivers I pulled from a salvaged soundbar, just to get it running. Now I'm at a point to picking decent drivers, so here is my question. The driver you talk about is 10 W and the woofer you refer to is 100W. Since I have two 50W channels, do I need to find similar drivers, but with power ratings closer to 50W?
I haven't played with speakers since high school, so I've forgotten a lot. Any help would be great. Thanks again for the vids!
Thank you !
Thank YOU!
I made computer speakers using these and the drivers are phenomenal. 10/10 bang for the buck! Exiting and non-fatiquing sound. Thoughts on the reference series drivers? Mainly the rs100. Thinking of trying them next.
Nice job bud . great vid. I am venturing into home audio and these seem to fit the bill for my surround sound speakers .
Yeah! These are great for that application. Thanks for watching!
Kirby Meets Audio always watching 😎
Thats a good looking driver
damm the b role of the speaker reminds me of apple ads
and you should upload more videos probly 3 to 4 videos per week
once again you are the most amazing speaker builder on youtube
keep up the good work
Thanks! Putting out two videos a week is hard enough. Quality to quantity ratio with just me making the videos is pretty good at two. Thanks for watching!
Thank you.bro can u suggest a woofer and tweeter with watt and ohms for my marantaz 60+60 amp Dayton or any low budget music performance .
Nice design speakers
Thanks!
This little PS95 is hands down my favourite all time driver!!! It is SO good, and for the price... literally unbeatable! I found that a simple Baffle Step Compensation circuit make it come alive and it sounds larger than it is. I have used the PS95 once as a Full Range and once supported by a sub and those two designs are probably my favourites of all the ones I did because they sound KILLER and they are way way WAY cheaper than most of the speakers I designed... I'm working on a 3 way with those as the mids in an MTMWW setup along with some Airborn AMT tweeters to get that resolution and air, and I'm not fixed on the Woofers yet. Should be interesting!
Again, it's a treat to watch your videos, Kirby, you are killing it lately!
Try this, Big Ears: With these 3" drivers, put them in oversize boxes (good bookshelf speaker size) and make a shallow bass vent tube for the speaker hole, going about 2" into the box. lol It WON'T work without it! And mount the driver like 1 cm above the speaker hole (with spacers). That is why you need the bass tube on the speaker hole. Make the spacers (slightly bigger) out of thin soft flexi hose. So then you can tweak the acoustic gap between the driver and the box. Mine is less than 1 cm on the bottom spacers and slightly over 1 cm on the top spacers (after tweaking the gap by the sound). You won't believe your ears! My speakers are ran with 10" woofers under in separate boxes. They smoke my B&W 706s! My speakers are better than normal speakers cos they sound like panel speakers and they are better than panel speakers cos mine haven't got 6ft mouths. My Audiolab 6000A amp with them cranks. Best sound and even the clapping sounds crazy real! Cheers Big Ears!
Don't run these babies with tweeters. That's sacrilege! The main reason these drivers sound good is cos they are point source! There are other ways to extend highs. A 1 ohm resistor and a 1 mf cap in parl might do. With most speakers the vowels and consonants of the voice sound come from like 8" apart on normal 2 ways or 3 ways. Common sense tell us it's simply not going to sound as good the sound coming from one point. That's why headphones sound good. But woofers are way less critical cos bass isn't as directional. I run the whole signal through my FR drivers with 100 mf to stop the Doppler and so I can crank it and the woofer for under 100 hz. A 5.6 mh on the woofer seems to work well. And a resistor to tweak woofer level (if needed). Mine is 1 ohm. It's a 4 ohm FR driver and 8 ohm woofer. But I made a "filter" for my FR driver so it's a bit more than 4 ohms and the 100 mf on the 4 ohm driver stops bass going below 4 ohms. Ohms is about the only thing you have go keep in mind for amp safety reasons. Otherwise you can do what you like with speakers.
Cables would make a (tiny) difference. Cos a non soldered crossover sounds "better" than a soldered one! Soldered crossovers seem to sound way more "brittle". But I do solder my crossovers but I have a twisted joint just before the driver (for that "silky"sound). After finding this out I reckon cables would make a difference. Try the twisted joint hypothesis. Also to make FR drivers sound more "silky" use electrolytic caps! You never never know till you try! Speaker building is real audiophile! More fun and WAY cheaper! To get the same difference as these cheap tweaks some audiophiles would pay many thousands. Get an Audiolab 6000A (just do it if you have the dosh). See Andrew Robinson's review of it. As good as green tea! I got one after seeing it and loving it!
I really like your videos. I have never built anything like this. But my parents gave me an old console radio from the 1940’s. I’d love to stuff it with nice speakers and a big sub so it could put out some really deep rich sound. Connect maybe a tablet to it and play my Tidal HiFi account through it. And maybe even get the turntable working as well. The wood needs some restoration too. I just don’t know what direction to go with it all.
Kirby, thanks for the video. Thinking about this to replace my TV soundbar. Any plans, kits, or suggestions for a subwoofer? P.S. really like the new intro.
Im looking in to upgrading the splekers on my black web gunner pc spekers
I have some of these in a .1 box ported have you ever used a Notch filter to smooth out a peaks in the speaker
Never heard a FR driver I liked, always needed a tweeter. That being said I think I need to check these out. The main issue for me with multi way speakers and crossovers is the cost. It is so much higher which is why I always hope to find a good FR driver that actually sounds good throughout the range.
I am going to have a go at this build - you inspired me :) If the enclosure is ported will it give a bit more low end performance, or does this driver work best in this enclosure size when sealed? Does it need lagging/wadding for sound absorption?
Makes me want to start a project with these, At $24 you can’t go wrong. The 3 inch drivers I had in my car cost $500 😱
Built a pair of concrete PS95 speakers, weighing 7kg/each and teamed them with a Dayton DC-250. However, the 2-1-amp from China was really bad (not working) so I hade to fiddle when doing some initial tests and it sounded really good and could take a lot of punishment as the bass notes were also applied to the PS95.
As a speaker for side channels, I think it is perfect. Have used some full range speakers (Hungarian Sonido) lately and are a fan of this kind of speakers.
Great Video! I own a pair of Hartley Tower speakers that are about 30 years old. There are two 6.5 inch drivers and a 2inch dome tweeter in each tower. Would these speakers be a good replacement and could you recommend a tweeter to pair them with?
Great video! Can you suggest a good alternative to Dayton audio that may be available in the UK please, I cannot seem to find them over here?
Hoping to start my first speaker build soon, do you think a custom enclosure and these PS95 would be a better set up than a C Note speaker set up in a custom enclosure? Not planning to run a sub at the moment so they would just be a 2 channel set up. Love all your videos and appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge!
70hz is actually very respectable. In a desktop setting particularly, most people would be surprised how low that is. Most commercial desktop speakers will hang in the 120-150hz range.
I've looked at this driver a few times now along with a few others. Too many options made me neglect pulling the trigger on the purchase.
I'm off to buy it after I finish this reply. Now I just need to find a mono Bluetooth amp that will operate off 18 volts and I'll be on my way lol.
Thanks! Love your videos! Always look forward to them.
Great choice! Let me know how you like them. Thanks for watching!
Russell Borrego how did this work out
What kind of bluetooth amp would you recommend for these drivers? Love your videos btw!
Hey Kirby
I’m thinking of building a centre speaker with 4 of these drivers.
I have a Yamaha aventage 1070.
Would these handle the power?
Using this in my Challenger since the cheapest fronts are 8 ohms looks good speaker ok I’ll intall it in 4 days waiting on wires
Do these work well in small enclosures? and how is the off-axis response? Im thinking about using these in my car and making a pod in a-pillar for them.
A full range driver is a good place to start for a lot of builders. So is a powered subwoofer. It gives you a chance to start learning to use a computer program to simulate a speaker enclosure design. But once you've built one or a few projects with just one speaker, be sure to push yourself to tackle more complex projects such as a two-way speaker, then a three-way, with passive crossovers. It takes more work but then you can build your knowledge, experience, and suite of test gear (you'll need an OmniMic and a DATS to gather the needed data to design a crossover, but the pair of tools are just under $400).
Im just goning to usr them to upgade the my black web gunner speakers allong with the tcp115-4 4"
Do you think this would be good as a surround speaker build? I currently use orb audio mod 2's with a sub in my home theater, but I'd like to bring a rear channel to the party... And then upgrade the front channels!
Kirby,I've been thinking of a center channel for my computer's 5.1 setup. Could you give me some pointers on two of these drivers in the same cabinet with a Tang Band W3 3" subwoofer (maybe in the same enclosure)? Thanks for another great video!
I making a Bluetooth speaker of mf my own and I am having a hard time finding 2 50 watt full range speakers with good bass but not too expensive
Considering these types of drivers for a small wifi speaker build for the bedroom and eventually other rooms. Mainly to not have a crossover but also to keep them small. Could you install a high pass filter in line to cut out everything below 100hz in order to keep them a little more clean sounding when turned up a little higher? I know very little about cross overs, but figured with this speaker you can't really use a traditional crossover since there is only one driver.
What tweeters would you recommend as a mach ?
Seriously Make line array with these.... That would be an awesome build video
There is a kasun driver that is similar in price, but this definitely does appeal to the eyes.
Ive been buying from parts express since the early 90's but I am interested in your opinion on this driver. Do you think the crisp highs come from the copper dust cap?
could its "lack" of low end bass be better if using a T-line?
Don't forget that you still need a baffle step compensation network when using a full range driver. This usually comes in in the form of a notch filter. Simple coil, resistor and capacitor in parallel to each other.
You recommend any software for this?
@@christianorozco9216 No, I use a little trial and error after copying an existing design for a similar speaker. The coil changes the bottom frequency, the capacitor the top frequency and the resistor changes the depth of the notch.
If you are driving these using that 100w amp you linked to, how careful do you have to be about not blowing the drivers?
Hi! I am preparing for my first project. I found these as an ideal option for putting in a "needle" style towers. I think it will be perfect for my small apartment without disturbing my neighbours. But i am struggling to choose an amplifier. Can anyone recommend anything with a good sound quality at low volume levels and rich of features (BT, headphone etc) at around (or less) 100 euros in Europe?
can you use this in a cloased cabin? with a passive radiator
Hey kirby your videos are always so nice! Can you also link a speaker that has the same specs but is sold in EU, because parts express doesnt ship to eu or for very high price :(
Kirby, the Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT 100W Class D 2.1 Amplifier with Bluetooth and Power Supply is no longer available on the part express website. Can you recommend another?
Hi, I was wondering if you could suggest a better more expensive full range driver (say $100 to $250)? Thanks in advance.
Can I used them for midrange n Highrange...???
Does this driver come also in none paper form if so what are they like too.
How does this compare to the Dayton RS100-4
So no X overs, means directly wiring power source the drivers. That does reduce my stress over speaker DIY. I will order them and give it a try and use them as computer desk speakers. Not sure I understood how the tone control on the amp controlls the X over points between them I were to add that sub. What are the dimensions of those little towers? Ported? Where?
hey, at here there's no one that sell dayton audio driver, can you recommended the best speaker for $20
remind me the Hybrid Audio Speakers.
Hi can i use for H/K AVR 141 each channel 35 output
Are this better then 3.5 car speakers like kicker,fosgates, pioneer? I want to add speakers to the dash on my Altima and I've heard that this are good
Kirby is exactly right. Two of these in a proper suspension (box) can fill a room with well-balanced sound. Just do it.
And if you learn to duct them properly you’ll be glad you did.
I have TPA3110 - XH-A232. What way cheaper drivers can I use to achieve decent experience?
have mark audio the FR is not very great but mids are nice and not very detail , but lovlly with jazz n vocals , how can i improve it
i went to the kit page but could not find anything, what dose your kit do ?
What screws do you use to attach speaker
How to make speakers from FR drivers that sound like panel speakers:
Get some good 5" FRdrivers and 6.5" woofers and floor standing boxes and a 6.8mh inductor for the woofer and a 82 mf cap to minimise excursions on the FR driver. Also a bass vent ring, extra length speaker screws for the FR driver and spacers made from (thin soft prinkler hose) and some wadding for inside the box.
Make or obtain tower boxes with a 5" speaker hole near the top as usual and a 6.5" woofer hole on the bottom panel firing straight down onto the floor surface (box 1" above the floor with stubbs). The idea of the speaker is to have an acoustic gap between the 5" FR driver and the box. Using the extended speaker screws and spacers, the driver is 1-2 cm above the speaker hole for acoustic reasons. BUT...It will sound "bonky" so you need a bass vent ring running into the box only by 2". Make the 5" diameter x 2" deep ring from poly pipe and hot glue inside under the speaker hole. This is also acting as a bass vent for the woofer (with the 5" driver over it). The 5" driver is 1 cm over the hole for the top speaker screws and 2 cm above on the bottom speaker screws. So cut the soft sprinkler hose 5mm larger and thread screw into the spacers and screw down to 1 cm and 2 cm. Install woofer (if w too loud, resist it till you are happy). If FR driver is too loud resist it by a little bit and bypass resistor with a 2 mf or 1.5 mf cap (for more extension). And you have to tweak acoustic gap with the speaker screws.
If too much "squark" increase 1 cm gap. If too mellow and huski decrease 1 cm gap (all just by a little bit). Don't "overshoot" and miss out on the most incredible sound you heard!
If sound is too much "shout" increase 2 cm gap till it leans out a bit. And if med is soft and lean decrease 2 cm gap.
This is only a guide, experiment and do only a few degrees turn of the speaker screws at a time. It is amazing how tweaking this over a week or so makes the BEST image I heard. And the difference between a good sou d and a FANTASTIC sound is only a screwdriver away. The crowd in nearly all live recordings are so convincingly real! Thes speakers are an experience I never had before with speakers. I have been building my own speakers since the 70's.
Hi Kirby
I'm looking at building a Voight Pipe box using the specs from a video I recently watched (World's 2nd Best Speakers from Tech Ingredients).
I am still tossing which full range driver to use.
Could you please give me your opinion on this build and what full range driver you would consider (~$400 pair)
Look forward to receiving your recommendations
I was initially considering the Mark Audio 12P
So here's a question, as we age our ability to hear high frequencies diminishes. Just doing a random test online, mine fades out above 13khz. Naturally, others in my circle will have better/different hearing. Is that relevant when selecting drivers? e.g. does it matter if I pick a full range that only goes to 16khz? Isn't most music and or vocals in a much lower range anyway?
Have you ever compared this driver to the RS100 from Dayton? I started wanting the PS95 but it's just not a good fit for the enclosure I need to use and the RS100 is a better fit for my application. Also are the highs really detailed enough to get away without a tweeter? Reviews on parts express seem to be 50/50. I'm looking to build a small bookshelf speaker for my daughter's room and listening positions won't be on axis most of the time. Thanks for any insight you can offer.
Hi, i'm looking for a suitable board amplifier for the same speaker configuration as yours but using DS175 70w woofer 8ohm. I was thinking this one: FX-AUDIO M-DIY-2.1 2x TPA3116D2 Class D Amplifier Module 2.1 2x50W + 100W
it can work? thanks in advance
Any recommendations for builders overseas? The speaker doesn't seem to be available in Europe.
Hey just curious, would you be designing speaker builds with other brands? I like dayton and understand the price/performance ratio, but I keep hearing about peerless speakers and vifa tweeters and would be interested in seeing them or other affordable more premium options with possibly less trade offs or deeper bass.
Ps I really like the music choices of your videos and also really like the idea of a full range speaker + woofer design, I would be all over that.
Heck yeah man! I will definitely be using other brands drivers in my builds. Peerless and Vifa make great products. Thanks for watching!
Those are phase plug drivers right? If so the great highs make sense, but is the low end not extremely lacking? Phase plug drivers need a rather high crossover point.
And using a subwoofer would make the total project cost considerably higher then getting a tweeter plus woofer right?
Can this be used in a Home Theater array? what do you think?
Kirby when will you return. Such great video production and content.
I really like this driver but if you want something a little more serieus, get a pair of Markaudio CHR70's. They again don't really need a crossover but have a much better bass response. In the right enclosure they can go as deep as 40Hz