*Fun stuff Sam!* I have a UV on the way from a different manufacturer. The issue with glasses is, the slightest curve variation on glass changes the result due to the slight reflection as the curve gets larger. While other materials work well within reason, on glasses, you need to use a rotary to keep the strongest point of the laser beam directly under the galvo. You proved this by running multiple passes.
As always, I appreciate your insight and advice! Do you know of any surface treatment that may help with this on clear glass? I grabbed my cermark spray for this video, but it must have been put "somewhere safe" last it was used. :)
Been really bysy just saw this vid! Awesome vid and have thought about getting an engraver but on the fence.. thanks for the info and suckA awesome that you can use it on wood and stuff! Keep these vids coming man!
Hey Sam. If you dont use a Rotary for round objects Like Glases then there IS a Feature in Lihhtburn where you enter the Diameter and IT will compensate by asjusting Power according to the roundness
So i've had my machine for a week now and i've not had an issue with doing any of the different types of glass i've tried. It would be interesting to see you setting and compare to what i have dialed in. Keep up the great videos. Cheers.
I love my Omni 1. The day after I had it it up and running I went to the Dollar Tree and got those same mirrors. My intent was to see how it work removing the coating on the back side I thought that might yield some cool project results. I was so happy when I saw you got the same ones I got, but then you did the wrong side. We all knew the glass side already worked fine. I haven't tried the back side of the mirror yet, and I was hoping you'd have given it a shot. Oh well. I still enjoyed your video. Cheers!
How are your experiences with glassware if you've tried it yet? That one really bugged me not being able to figure it out in the video. Also, I've learned from other commenters that yes, I was very wrong to engrave the top of the mirror due to flashback risks.
For what I'd eventually like to do with the laser side, this machine would definitely fill the bill.. I could keep the big Co2 I have now for actual wood cutting and use this for marking everything else.. I guess it's part of the 'goals' section I'm working on at this point, lol. And far as that keychain goes, I really like the look of that deep engraving, especially since it didn't 'burn' like a Co2 could going that deep.
As far as glasses go I was having issues too. Then I started measuring the glasses. Out of 6 glasses the diameters were as much as 1mm difference. The level also changed for almost every glass. So I did the average diameter and leveled every glass and then adjusted the focus each time. Bingo I started getting consistent burns. I don’t know if the cheap glasses were the problem or if most glasses are this inconsistent. I’m using the same Omni UV laser. Thanks for your videos!!
Have you tried to put a piece of construction paper inside the glass to give your laser a depth reading because it might be seeing the curve inside the glass and throwing off the alignment.
Question about the Plastic and UV. Have you tried mixing 3D Printing with certain filaments to see if you make some sort of product, that you could do a custom engraving with it and how it might handle it with different filaments? What would work best and all that. Just curious.
I have a heck of a time with glass with this UV. Maybe more me than the machine but I have more failures than success. Also with a rotary and grass I have many more issues with the UV. I use mine now more for leather marking / cutting and deep wood engraving. It cuts and marks leather beautifully.
Very nice video, Sam! As I just got an Omni myself, I'll be checking out your jigs. Funny enough, I got the Omni for marking the 3D printed products and parts that I make. Is this how you'll be branding your jigs? Anyway, I wanted to say that while setting my Omni up and doing some test on glass, I noticed that the galvo head was not very level to the work surface on both axises. So, maybe give that a look to see if that's why you're losing the corners on one side of the 150mm box.
This or more than double for a Thunder Aurora 8 UV? Kind of worried about long term durability of the Omni vs the Thunder. I don't want to be going through machines and having to replace them often.
I have not personally used the Aurora, but do own a Nova 35 and it's the best machine I've ever owned! I would expect the Aurora to be the same caliber of machine.
I have had the omni 1 for 3 weeks and have struggled with glass,been using lasers for years starting with diode and co2. I bought this with the hope of doing things quickly, but find my 20watt diode does the glass just as quick. 75mm/s is just 2 slow
While it worked for you, lasering the front of a mirror can be VERY dangerous and also damage the machine very easily any time the reflection of the laser gets shot back up into the lens and can then result in etching the lens. Th risk is a bit hit and miss due refraction of the glass times can "usually" be enough to defocus the laser light to prevent it having enough power in its reflected distanced. Why you usually see it recommended you only laser the backside of mirrors.
Sam, if you ever feel the need to rid yourself of that ComMarker UV laser, I would be happy to take off your hands and would even pay the shipping costs to my location. Just putting the out there. Have fun with that machine, very neat and cool.
So, a $4K laser that boasts 150mm x 150mm that you actually get 110mm x 110mm with? No thanks. That little tidbit right there is enough to keep me from even considering it.
Not sure what you you are referring to at 6:30 about IR lasers. I have a 100w CO2 that has no issues with wood. Are you saying no charring with the UV whereas an IR will? Sure. But I if you dial in your settings of your IR, there is little to no charring on most wood materials. There are many benefits for a UV galvo over a gantry IR, though.
IR is a popular advertising term, so that's what I referring to. Hardly anyone will call their CO2 laser an IR even though it operates in the infrared spectrum. This term was used to relate to the masses and new users instead of those who go by the spectrum segments. :)
Nice video Sam, though I didn't notice the limitation in the workspace that you saw with the 150mm lens., so maybe you just need to do the calibration again. Feel free to add my channel to your links, too.
@Samcraftcom yes, that's what we mean... you were sticking them in another room. I don't know how you had time to clean the room out, move them, and do a video. Lol
If you didn’t notice he showed all his 3D printed jiggs that he sells. By doing a laser video, UA-cam will push it out to all people that have or are interested in laser embroidering. Then they’ll see the jiggs and possibly like them and order them. Very good way of advertising. I bet none of you thought it was a marketing video for his jiggs. 😅
Maybe I'm unusual, but when I'm listening to somebody talk I'd prefer not to have somebody three rooms down the hall beating on a drum. Good video otherwise.
I am impressed by the sharp engravings, the cleanest one that can be achieved, excellent
*Fun stuff Sam!* I have a UV on the way from a different manufacturer. The issue with glasses is, the slightest curve variation on glass changes the result due to the slight reflection as the curve gets larger. While other materials work well within reason, on glasses, you need to use a rotary to keep the strongest point of the laser beam directly under the galvo. You proved this by running multiple passes.
As always, I appreciate your insight and advice! Do you know of any surface treatment that may help with this on clear glass? I grabbed my cermark spray for this video, but it must have been put "somewhere safe" last it was used. :)
Thanks Sam, Love those UV lasers and your wonderful presentation skills! You make learning fun.
That makes me happy to hear, thank you!
Been really bysy just saw this vid! Awesome vid and have thought about getting an engraver but on the fence.. thanks for the info and suckA awesome that you can use it on wood and stuff! Keep these vids coming man!
Hey Sam.
If you dont use a Rotary for round objects Like Glases then there IS a Feature in Lihhtburn where you enter the Diameter and IT will compensate by asjusting Power according to the roundness
Thanks Sam! I have yet to get a laser but feel like it wold help my wood working business at some point. Appreciate all the great knowledge!
So i've had my machine for a week now and i've not had an issue with doing any of the different types of glass i've tried. It would be interesting to see you setting and compare to what i have dialed in.
Keep up the great videos. Cheers.
I’ve got the ComMarker UV and just did some glass. Try speed 600mm/s Freq 30 1 nano pulse
I love my Omni 1. The day after I had it it up and running I went to the Dollar Tree and got those same mirrors. My intent was to see how it work removing the coating on the back side I thought that might yield some cool project results. I was so happy when I saw you got the same ones I got, but then you did the wrong side. We all knew the glass side already worked fine.
I haven't tried the back side of the mirror yet, and I was hoping you'd have given it a shot. Oh well. I still enjoyed your video. Cheers!
How are your experiences with glassware if you've tried it yet? That one really bugged me not being able to figure it out in the video. Also, I've learned from other commenters that yes, I was very wrong to engrave the top of the mirror due to flashback risks.
For what I'd eventually like to do with the laser side, this machine would definitely fill the bill.. I could keep the big Co2 I have now for actual wood cutting and use this for marking everything else.. I guess it's part of the 'goals' section I'm working on at this point, lol. And far as that keychain goes, I really like the look of that deep engraving, especially since it didn't 'burn' like a Co2 could going that deep.
I have a 60 watt CO2 gantry, but would like a smaller Galvo for its speed in marking. I need to do more research on UV lasers.
Oh by the way, what settings are you using for the powder coated tumblers?? Thanks!
As far as glasses go I was having issues too. Then I started measuring the glasses. Out of 6 glasses the diameters were as much as 1mm difference. The level also changed for almost every glass. So I did the average diameter and leveled every glass and then adjusted the focus each time. Bingo I started getting consistent burns. I don’t know if the cheap glasses were the problem or if most glasses are this inconsistent. I’m using the same Omni UV laser. Thanks for your videos!!
The Lasers are back!! " Freakin LASERSSSS"
Have you tried to put a piece of construction paper inside the glass to give your laser a depth reading because it might be seeing the curve inside the glass and throwing off the alignment.
Great info...Thanks! One question though: what kind of safety shielding is required?
Love that jig system.
Nice video on UV lasers, Something to try when working with curved glass, use something that will keep the light reflection down within the item.
That's a great tip, thanks!
Have you tested out raw steel with this laser
I saw the thumb and based on the items I was guessing a UV galvo. Even guessed it was a Commarker on the bed. I so want one.
Can it deeply etch river rock??
Question about the Plastic and UV.
Have you tried mixing 3D Printing with certain filaments to see if you make some sort of product, that you could do a custom engraving with it and how it might handle it with different filaments? What would work best and all that. Just curious.
I have a heck of a time with glass with this UV. Maybe more me than the machine but I have more failures than success. Also with a rotary and grass I have many more issues with the UV. I use mine now more for leather marking / cutting and deep wood engraving. It cuts and marks leather beautifully.
Well I'm glad and sad I'm not alone on this.. I would rather it be me than trouble that others also have.
Pretty sweet laser!
What about 3d marking ? Is this possible with UV laser 3d deep engraving for coins or stone ect...?
Thank you Sam!
Enjoyed the videos. Thanks!!!
Thank you!
Very nice video, Sam! As I just got an Omni myself, I'll be checking out your jigs. Funny enough, I got the Omni for marking the 3D printed products and parts that I make. Is this how you'll be branding your jigs?
Anyway, I wanted to say that while setting my Omni up and doing some test on glass, I noticed that the galvo head was not very level to the work surface on both axises. So, maybe give that a look to see if that's why you're losing the corners on one side of the 150mm box.
I just...engraved, marked, lasered your 150mm Square Test and got all 4 corners out to 150mm. (149.94mm according to my calipers)
Can it do those deep coin engravings?
Thanks!
This or more than double for a Thunder Aurora 8 UV? Kind of worried about long term durability of the Omni vs the Thunder. I don't want to be going through machines and having to replace them often.
I have not personally used the Aurora, but do own a Nova 35 and it's the best machine I've ever owned! I would expect the Aurora to be the same caliber of machine.
Will it work on PETG ?
Last I heard, mine is in Anchorage, Alaska. Maybe I will get it next week.
Thanks Sam
Sam the lord we protect you and your ɓusiness and family
I have had the omni 1 for 3 weeks and have struggled with glass,been using lasers for years starting with diode and co2. I bought this with the hope of doing things quickly, but find my 20watt diode does the glass just as quick. 75mm/s is just 2 slow
I'm both glad and sad to hear I'm not alone with the glassware struggles.
I’m doing glassware at 600mm/s on the Omni.
Please, next time, share your parameters, I have a 10w UV laser, and I'm always looking for some parameters, Thanks great video
I’ve got the same one on the way!
Thanks great video. How do you think the J Tech laser compares to this one?
Sorry, I have no experience with that machine. Many times what is advertised vs. what is reality seems to differ, so I would hate to say.
Understand and thanks again.
When it comes to glass, they're all not made of the same inert materials. Sometimes...
While it worked for you, lasering the front of a mirror can be VERY dangerous and also damage the machine very easily any time the reflection of the laser gets shot back up into the lens and can then result in etching the lens. Th risk is a bit hit and miss due refraction of the glass times can "usually" be enough to defocus the laser light to prevent it having enough power in its reflected distanced. Why you usually see it recommended you only laser the backside of mirrors.
Thanks sam
Try putting a piece of paper inside the glass before engraving. 💖💖👍👍🙏🙏👍👍💖💖
Man, I feel bad. I haven't powered on my 10W Z1 in nearly 2yrs.
Sam, if you ever feel the need to rid yourself of that ComMarker UV laser, I would be happy to take off your hands and would even pay the shipping costs to my location. Just putting the out there. Have fun with that machine, very neat and cool.
I'll keep that in mind. :)
Given you've got CO2 lasers, if you had to pick one between this and the F1 Ultra to compliment that CO2 machine, which would it be?
So, a $4K laser that boasts 150mm x 150mm that you actually get 110mm x 110mm with? No thanks. That little tidbit right there is enough to keep me from even considering it.
Not sure what you you are referring to at 6:30 about IR lasers. I have a 100w CO2 that has no issues with wood. Are you saying no charring with the UV whereas an IR will? Sure. But I if you dial in your settings of your IR, there is little to no charring on most wood materials. There are many benefits for a UV galvo over a gantry IR, though.
IR is a popular advertising term, so that's what I referring to. Hardly anyone will call their CO2 laser an IR even though it operates in the infrared spectrum. This term was used to relate to the masses and new users instead of those who go by the spectrum segments. :)
Nice video Sam, though I didn't notice the limitation in the workspace that you saw with the 150mm lens., so maybe you just need to do the calibration again. Feel free to add my channel to your links, too.
Bud glass is easy
I eagerly await your demonstrations! LOL Seriously... TEACH
Hard to recognize you without your baseball hat!
4K USD......damn
17th from NC 👊🏻💪🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Why are you doing laser video’s ?? LOL … I had too after the last video !
I was thinking this too... like damn, he said he would do one, but I didn't think it would be this fast. 😂
I said was going to move my lasers in the last video -- not get rid of them. :) It was the embroidery & apparel business that got packed up.
@Samcraftcom yes, that's what we mean... you were sticking them in another room. I don't know how you had time to clean the room out, move them, and do a video. Lol
@@markah910 Oh, gotcha. This was in the big shop still. :) I just put all the stuff from one surface to another. Call it camera trickery!
If you didn’t notice he showed all his 3D printed jiggs that he sells. By doing a laser video, UA-cam will push it out to all people that have or are interested in laser embroidering. Then they’ll see the jiggs and possibly like them and order them. Very good way of advertising. I bet none of you thought it was a marketing video for his jiggs. 😅
holy crap those are expensive lasers. Not really for a hobbyist or someone doing a side hustle.
Maybe I'm unusual, but when I'm listening to somebody talk I'd prefer not to have somebody three rooms down the hall beating on a drum. Good video otherwise.