That's a clone of the Cutech that I've had for about 10 years. I'm happy with mine and have had no issues. Yes, we'd all love a longer table and fence but for a smaller workshop, it gets the job done well. I might make custom table and fence extensions someday. Great find.
thanks, I have had a couple of 6" jointers in the past. I have a WEN brad nailer and it works great, have a WEN biscuit jointer coming, and will probably add this jointer soon. I am well pleased with WEN. again, thanks for sharing.
Perhaps when you are jointing the face, you don’t have to push up against the fence-just run it freely across the cutters. Then when you joint the edge you can put the now jointed face up against the fence. Now you are referencing the flat face on the fence to result in the flat edge to get the true 90.
Somehow this video appeared in my UA-cam suggestions. Good point about checking all the "settings" everytime. I think I would have just assumed everything was all set. Thanks for posting.
Great review. I am about to buy this Jointer and it was nice to see you work with it. This will also be my first jointer. I'm happy to see that it can just be stored on a shelf. I am also in a garage with limited space.
Great review. I am in the same place, just going into wood working more seriously but can't afford pro tools yet, and was on the fence about the Wen jointer.
Nice video. I just purchased a WEN bandsaw and am now looking at this jointer. Would it be better to always move the fence in for smaller boards? This would prevent that lip from happening. It would also expose less blade.
From my personal experience, yes. Moving the fence in reduces (IMO) a risk in the event your hand slips. Alot of people told me that lip happens because of lack of knowledge. And in fairness you don't need the fence to joint the face of the board. But being new to this tool it's a habit that comes from all our tools with a fence i.e. table saw. So I'd say use the fence to joint the face until you become familiar with it. Thanks for watching.
@@kisswoodworking3872 You can also use the fence (with thinner material and on edges) to use different parts of the blade(s), to spread out the wear on them.
A lot of pawn shop tools are from thefts and pawn shops ship items from one store to another if they suspect it is stolen, or call the police for items that are new and clearly stolen. I have never bought anything from a pawn shop that didn’t work, but there is usually some issue
@@kisswoodworking3872 not arguing that just stating facts. I used to buy a lot of hand tools from pawn shops, and still hunt down old woodworking hand tools in pawn shops, second hand shops, and flea markets
I noticed as you’re pushing the material through you’re reaching across the table, which makes it harder to apply equal even pressure. If you’re balanced properly you may have better luck in punishing the material evenly. This setup may not be your usual setup as you said the hose should be on the other side, and bringing the unit closer to you will give you more balance. Good explanation and thanks for sharing.
Very nice video. You and I have very similar equipment. It was helpful to see how you set things up. I appreciate the walkthrough. Like you said, this is a device we don't use very often and it is easy to forget the particulars. I am doing my first project using actual nice hardwood and I am nervous about the mistake I am about to make. Wish me luck.
I've heard tons of good things about the Wihuda ones too. It's pretty well built and priced pretty close to the wen. Wen actually makes pretty decent stuff once it's dialed in.
Good video; the jointer should always be the 2nd, if not the 1st woodworking tool you buy, since you need it to make all pieces square and straight. Recommend you check each board for the most concave edge (use the fence) and joint that side first until straight and smooth. Then run the piece through your table saw to make the other edge exactly parallel, at the finished width you want, plus 1/32 inch or so. Then joint it at 1/32 depth to make it smooth as well. No matter how many passes you make, you'll never joint a convex edge to a straight line - it will keep coming out convex.
Not than I’m a professional of any kind, but I’ve been a woodworker / hobbyist for almost fifty years, and it always makes me cringe when I see someone using a jointer as a surface planer…especially with a push block. You’ll have more control, safety, and better results if you take the plunge and buy a decent entry level surface planer. Just sayin….
If what you wrote in the first part is true, then you know that even PROS often use a jointer to flatten one face (It's called "face jointing" even!), or at least a good portion of the face, in order to get that one square corner, right? So why are you acting like you know what you don't, and trying to correct someone that isn't in the wrong?
Firstly, this is just my opinion..as I said…I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL! Did you ever wonder why they’re called jointers? They are for dressing the edges of boards so they can be joined to the edges of other boards. Certainly, you can use it to plane the face of a board…as long as it’s less than six inches wide. This is why most joiners have only six inch cutting heads. Just because you see someone doing something on television, doesn’t mean it’s the correct way of doing it. All I’m saying is that it’s safer to face plane a piece of stock by running it through an actual planer. And the definition of a “pro” is someone who gets paid for performing a certain task…even if they’re doing something dangerous…you know, like face planing a piece of wood on a jointer when it should be run through a planer.
@@Lespaul23 Kinda funny that I bought this model jointer BRAND NEW, and the MANUAL says to face joint, then edge joint. Yes, the manual calls it FACE jointing. Now, go do research before spouting your ignorance again.
no offense bro but you really shouldn't be teaching people how to use this machine as you clearly aren't doing it right. on the face side of the board you are referencing the table not the fence for your flat surface. you don't even need a fence for that
Hey thanks for the comment. But maybe you should understand at no point did I say I was an expert nor did I say I was teaching anyone. I said this is how I do it as this is my first Jointer. But ty for the comment.
He was sharing his experiences of learning how to do it as a noob... Feedback from someone like that to another noob can be helpful as they may experience the same issues that a veteran may have forgotten or not think to comment on
That's a clone of the Cutech that I've had for about 10 years. I'm happy with mine and have had no issues. Yes, we'd all love a longer table and fence but for a smaller workshop, it gets the job done well. I might make custom table and fence extensions someday. Great find.
I've thought about doing that also. Thanks for watching.
thanks, I have had a couple of 6" jointers in the past. I have a WEN brad nailer and it works great, have a WEN biscuit jointer coming, and will probably add this jointer soon. I am well pleased with WEN. again, thanks for sharing.
I also have the tracksaw from them...watch the video 😀 but yes overall I'm really happy with this brand. Thanks for watching.
Perhaps when you are jointing the face, you don’t have to push up against the fence-just run it freely across the cutters. Then when you joint the edge you can put the now jointed face up against the fence. Now you are referencing the flat face on the fence to result in the flat edge to get the true 90.
I like it. Thank you for the tip.
Somehow this video appeared in my UA-cam suggestions. Good point about checking all the "settings" everytime. I think I would have just assumed everything was all set. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching.
Good review of the product and great info.
Thanks for watching!
Great review. I am about to buy this Jointer and it was nice to see you work with it. This will also be my first jointer. I'm happy to see that it can just be stored on a shelf. I am also in a garage with limited space.
It's a battle for sure. But this Jointer really helps make it happen.
Great review. I am in the same place, just going into wood working more seriously but can't afford pro tools yet, and was on the fence about the Wen jointer.
Though I don't buy so much the high dollar tools. I seem to still spend a lot lol
Nice video. I just purchased a WEN bandsaw and am now looking at this jointer. Would it be better to always move the fence in for smaller boards? This would prevent that lip from happening. It would also expose less blade.
From my personal experience, yes. Moving the fence in reduces (IMO) a risk in the event your hand slips. Alot of people told me that lip happens because of lack of knowledge. And in fairness you don't need the fence to joint the face of the board. But being new to this tool it's a habit that comes from all our tools with a fence i.e. table saw. So I'd say use the fence to joint the face until you become familiar with it. Thanks for watching.
@@kisswoodworking3872 You can also use the fence (with thinner material and on edges) to use different parts of the blade(s), to spread out the wear on them.
A lot of pawn shop tools are from thefts and pawn shops ship items from one store to another if they suspect it is stolen, or call the police for items that are new and clearly stolen. I have never bought anything from a pawn shop that didn’t work, but there is usually some issue
Well it's mine now.
@@kisswoodworking3872 not arguing that just stating facts. I used to buy a lot of hand tools from pawn shops, and still hunt down old woodworking hand tools in pawn shops, second hand shops, and flea markets
Thanks for sharing your trial on the WEN Planer.
Thanks for watching
I noticed as you’re pushing the material through you’re reaching across the table, which makes it harder to apply equal even pressure. If you’re balanced properly you may have better luck in punishing the material evenly. This setup may not be your usual setup as you said the hose should be on the other side, and bringing the unit closer to you will give you more balance. Good explanation and thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the advice and thank you for watching.
Very nice video. You and I have very similar equipment. It was helpful to see how you set things up. I appreciate the walkthrough. Like you said, this is a device we don't use very often and it is easy to forget the particulars. I am doing my first project using actual nice hardwood and I am nervous about the mistake I am about to make. Wish me luck.
I'm working on my second walnut project. I use practice pieces before doing the walnut cuz I'm not rich lol.
from one new youtube woodworker to another. great video. you have a new follower !
just bought this on amazon thanks for the review !
Thank you very much. Hope you like it as much as I do.
Thank you for doing this. You answered some of my question.
Glad I could help!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing it will help the woodwork hobbies
I hope so!
I've heard tons of good things about the Wihuda ones too. It's pretty well built and priced pretty close to the wen. Wen actually makes pretty decent stuff once it's dialed in.
I was a bit scared going with WEN. But my budget was right in line with their price. And I'm actually pretty happy with them.
Very practical info, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
excellent explanation
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Have a wen spindle sander and the joiner. For the money they are excellent. Wen is very responsive when you have an issue.
Agree. Thanks for watching.
Very good thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Awesome review!
Glad you enjoyed it
What is the longest workpiece you would recommend using with this jointer?
It's too hard to tell. Everyone has different comfort levels and it does get harder the longer the board.
I like mine. I sometimes have issues getting infeed/outfeed tables level. Its kind of finicky.
It can be for sure
Thanks very helpful
Yw
How did you find out the pawn shop had the jointer? Did they run an ad somewhere?
I was on marketplace and I saw their add. Thought it would have been sold or a lie. So I called them.
I thought the outfeed side was NOT supposed to be level with feed side......
I was just referring to when I was "calibrating" that gauge on the side.
Outfeed remains level with the blade. Infeed adjusts so as the board catches on the blade.
Good video; the jointer should always be the 2nd, if not the 1st woodworking tool you buy, since you need it to make all pieces square and straight. Recommend you check each board for the most concave edge (use the fence) and joint that side first until straight and smooth. Then run the piece through your table saw to make the other edge exactly parallel, at the finished width you want, plus 1/32 inch or so. Then joint it at 1/32 depth to make it smooth as well. No matter how many passes you make, you'll never joint a convex edge to a straight line - it will keep coming out convex.
I will keep that on mind, ty
Thanks for sharing, you were sweating like a pig in there.
These texas summers are no joke. And I shut the fans off to help with audio. The things we do for Hollywood lol.
You should have more views man, good job of explaining your issues, if there's an issue...
Thank you. I'm slowly learning this yt thing lol.
Not than I’m a professional of any kind, but I’ve been a woodworker / hobbyist for almost fifty years, and it always makes me cringe when I see someone using a jointer as a surface planer…especially with a push block. You’ll have more control, safety, and better results if you take the plunge and buy a decent entry level surface planer. Just sayin….
Ty
If what you wrote in the first part is true, then you know that even PROS often use a jointer to flatten one face (It's called "face jointing" even!), or at least a good portion of the face, in order to get that one square corner, right? So why are you acting like you know what you don't, and trying to correct someone that isn't in the wrong?
Firstly, this is just my opinion..as I said…I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL! Did you ever wonder why they’re called jointers? They are for dressing the edges of boards so they can be joined to the edges of other boards. Certainly, you can use it to plane the face of a board…as long as it’s less than six inches wide. This is why most joiners have only six inch cutting heads. Just because you see someone doing something on television, doesn’t mean it’s the correct way of doing it. All I’m saying is that it’s safer to face plane a piece of stock by running it through an actual planer. And the definition of a “pro” is someone who gets paid for performing a certain task…even if they’re doing something dangerous…you know, like face planing a piece of wood on a jointer when it should be run through a planer.
@@Lespaul23 Kinda funny that I bought this model jointer BRAND NEW, and the MANUAL says to face joint, then edge joint. Yes, the manual calls it FACE jointing. Now, go do research before spouting your ignorance again.
no offense bro but you really shouldn't be teaching people how to use this machine as you clearly aren't doing it right. on the face side of the board you are referencing the table not the fence for your flat surface. you don't even need a fence for that
Hey thanks for the comment. But maybe you should understand at no point did I say I was an expert nor did I say I was teaching anyone. I said this is how I do it as this is my first Jointer. But ty for the comment.
He was sharing his experiences of learning how to do it as a noob... Feedback from someone like that to another noob can be helpful as they may experience the same issues that a veteran may have forgotten or not think to comment on