Fascinating. I really hope that Pentax is designing their NEW film SLR's to NOT be like this last generation of cameras! I hope they consider a modular design with ease of service as a major goal. I think they should look at the Framework laptops for inspiration. They are designed to be serviced by regular people using modules from Framework. No wires to de-solder! All screws are the same size. All modules are interconnected with plug-in pins. I currently have a Pentax Spotmatic F, an MZ-5, Auto 110, and recently bought a MZ-S. In the 1970's through the early 2000's I had an MX, LX, ME Super, K1000. I also have a Pentax K-5. Thanks.
Hi, another message from me while watching your video, I am so very happy that I found your channel. I am really amazed at how well everything is filmed and so clear, I started my new hobby of camera repair at the beginning of this year and have purchased a huge amount of tools, materials, fluids and so on. I wish you were my neighbor haha I would absolutely love it :) Does he also do this as a hobby or more at a professional level as an income? I received a broken Pentax MZ-5n yesterday, a defective light meter. I believe this camera was sold in the US as Pentax ZM or ZX, but it is simply the same camera. I hope to be able to fix it by watching this video series of yours, So far I have only repaired older SLR film cameras, mainly the Pentax ME Super and the MX and Spotmatic. greetings from the Netherlands Nicky
Yeah, I'm just a hobbyist, not a professional. Professionals are too busy fixing cameras to make youtube vids, haha. I have done one light meter repair on these cameras. Well, it was more of a part swap than a repair. I just took the metering cell from another parts camera and put it in the other camera. I don't know of any way to rehabilitate a bad metering cell. It's pretty easy to access, though, should be right on top of the pentaprism.
Hi I had a question about the basic multimeter that you use, the "Extech EX330 Basic Multimeter" I wondered why it is so expensive, the 12 functions on it, you need all 12 for camera repair, can't you do this job with a much cheaper multimeter? or is there the specific reason why you use this expensive one? Greetings Nicky (hopefully you don't mind me asking so much)
I think I bought the Extech for about $70 and that included some extra lead attachments. It may be more in other regions of the world. You can get really low cost multimeters, like under $20, but I generally don't trust gear that cheap. I just looked for some reviews by people that work with electronics to know what brands were even worth looking at, then picked something with the features I wanted. But this is really a supe basic meter. The only feature that might be considered an upgrade is autoscaling. You should be able to find something of similar quality for around 50 euro.
@@SamsCameraBench Hi thanks for answering, I have now also read what you say more often that the cheaper multi meters themselves are not reliable at all. the one you use costs around €85, but then I'll just save up for that one too. thanks again and have a nice day Greetings Nicky
Thanks! I'll usually place the screws next to the component they go to on the parts tray. If there are screws of different lengths, I'll consult the ifixit page where their exact positions are documented.
Not too hard. The eye piece assembly can be disassembled and all of the optics are accessible. The front is attached with double sided tape and there are a couple screws holding the diopter adjustment together.
I don't go through as much disassembly as Sam does but my method involves bagging and labeling them with their associated parts - I use little jewellery bags from Hobby Lobby and go up in size if the part is bigger. Also has the added benefit of being able to put it off for another day without losing parts.
Nice video! After a long journey in the vintage camera realm, I ended up with a Nikon F80. The only draw back for this one is the size and lack of weather sealing but the MZ-3 solves one of these problems. Do you think its possible to install a traditional cable shutter release button instead of the plastic one it has? You cant imagine how many times I fantasised about producing metal panels for cameras like this!
Installing a cable release is an interesting thought. I don't know if it's possible at the shutter button, there's just not a lot of room to work with. Maybe you could fashion some sort of adapter that plugs into the remote socket on the lens mount. A mechanical switch that sends the appropriate signal to the pins. Not sure how practical that solution is, haha, but it's fun to think about.
@@SamsCameraBench modding is fun in itself, but I think there is a market for reviving these cameras now, evident by the Pentax film project. I hope they would produce parts for old cameras except for new products though.
you are the MZ/ZX guru. Thanks for your ability to resurrect these gems.
Fascinating. I really hope that Pentax is designing their NEW film SLR's to NOT be like this last generation of cameras!
I hope they consider a modular design with ease of service as a major goal.
I think they should look at the Framework laptops for inspiration. They are designed to be serviced by regular people using modules from Framework.
No wires to de-solder! All screws are the same size. All modules are interconnected with plug-in pins.
I currently have a Pentax Spotmatic F, an MZ-5, Auto 110, and recently bought a MZ-S. In the 1970's through the early 2000's I had an MX, LX, ME Super, K1000. I also have a Pentax K-5. Thanks.
Hi,
another message from me while watching your video,
I am so very happy that I found your channel.
I am really amazed at how well everything is filmed and so clear,
I started my new hobby of camera repair at the beginning of this year and have purchased a huge amount of tools, materials, fluids and so on.
I wish you were my neighbor haha I would absolutely love it :)
Does he also do this as a hobby or more at a professional level as an income?
I received a broken Pentax MZ-5n yesterday, a defective light meter.
I believe this camera was sold in the US as Pentax ZM or ZX, but it is simply the same camera.
I hope to be able to fix it by watching this video series of yours,
So far I have only repaired older SLR film cameras, mainly the Pentax ME Super and the MX and Spotmatic.
greetings from the Netherlands
Nicky
Yeah, I'm just a hobbyist, not a professional. Professionals are too busy fixing cameras to make youtube vids, haha.
I have done one light meter repair on these cameras. Well, it was more of a part swap than a repair. I just took the metering cell from another parts camera and put it in the other camera. I don't know of any way to rehabilitate a bad metering cell. It's pretty easy to access, though, should be right on top of the pentaprism.
@@SamsCameraBench haha well you have also talent for making real good videos that are pleasant to watch with much switching camera angles haha
Hi
I had a question about the basic multimeter that you use, the "Extech EX330 Basic Multimeter"
I wondered why it is so expensive, the 12 functions on it, you need all 12 for camera repair,
can't you do this job with a much cheaper multimeter?
or is there the specific reason why you use this expensive one?
Greetings Nicky
(hopefully you don't mind me asking so much)
I think I bought the Extech for about $70 and that included some extra lead attachments. It may be more in other regions of the world. You can get really low cost multimeters, like under $20, but I generally don't trust gear that cheap. I just looked for some reviews by people that work with electronics to know what brands were even worth looking at, then picked something with the features I wanted. But this is really a supe basic meter. The only feature that might be considered an upgrade is autoscaling. You should be able to find something of similar quality for around 50 euro.
@@SamsCameraBench Hi
thanks for answering,
I have now also read what you say more often that the cheaper multi meters themselves are not reliable at all. the one you use costs around €85, but then I'll just save up for that one too.
thanks again and have a nice day
Greetings Nicky
Really great video. Just curious, how do you keep track of the screws?
Thanks! I'll usually place the screws next to the component they go to on the parts tray. If there are screws of different lengths, I'll consult the ifixit page where their exact positions are documented.
Not too hard. The eye piece assembly can be disassembled and all of the optics are accessible. The front is attached with double sided tape and there are a couple screws holding the diopter adjustment together.
I don't go through as much disassembly as Sam does but my method involves bagging and labeling them with their associated parts - I use little jewellery bags from Hobby Lobby and go up in size if the part is bigger. Also has the added benefit of being able to put it off for another day without losing parts.
Nice video! After a long journey in the vintage camera realm, I ended up with a Nikon F80. The only draw back for this one is the size and lack of weather sealing but the MZ-3 solves one of these problems. Do you think its possible to install a traditional cable shutter release button instead of the plastic one it has? You cant imagine how many times I fantasised about producing metal panels for cameras like this!
Installing a cable release is an interesting thought. I don't know if it's possible at the shutter button, there's just not a lot of room to work with. Maybe you could fashion some sort of adapter that plugs into the remote socket on the lens mount. A mechanical switch that sends the appropriate signal to the pins. Not sure how practical that solution is, haha, but it's fun to think about.
@@SamsCameraBench modding is fun in itself, but I think there is a market for reviving these cameras now, evident by the Pentax film project. I hope they would produce parts for old cameras except for new products though.