I had this same issue with our old 2007 Kenmore Elite from Sears today. I had ordered a "like new" replacement off of eBay and it arrived more damaged than my burnt one. I decided to look at solutions and found a video showing someone just doing a quick solder of the board where it clicks to turn on. When I went back to try it I couldn't find the video, it was just like 1.5 minutes. Anyway, I found this more intricate video and decided to try just soldering the little burnt hole in the back of the board. I pushed in as much solder as I could and made a good rounded spot on top. I tried it out and it worked. I am so glad I bought a $20 solder kit last year for a different project. I will now send back the defective one that was sent and go on with life, perhaps go kayaking on the lake.
Thank you so much! I had this same blowout with my Whirlpool dryer. I have never soldered before... bought a cheap kit off amazon and followed this video step-by-step. And the dryer is back up and running! Much thanks for the details and the close-up camera. You saved me a $300 technician visit!
01101110 01101111 --err, I mean no😋. Actually, that is really funny because I never noticed that before in the intro and outro on this video. I am not as it were, but I was still figuring a lot of stuff out at that point (and still am but am getting better), so the delivery is a bit flatter than my more recent stuff. If you subscribe and watch my live streams and other videos, I promise I blink more. Thanks for watching! 😊
It was because the solder pad PCB for the relay had been damaged and fell off so there was no conductive surface to hold the solder. Instead of trying to tie the connection into the trace part way, I choose to jumper the connections so that the current that it was handling would not cause any heat in the connection and potentially de-solder it. Going directly from the pin to the next pin makes a good electrical connection that is also secure since it provides more surface area for a good connection with greater resilience mechanically, since the board being in a dryer is subject to vibration while in use. Great question, and thank you for watching!😊
@@seaquest2681 Technically any wire can be used, but because this was a dryer, I used a conductor taken from an SJOOW cable because it has a higher temperature rating, was the appropriate gauge for the current, and was what I had on hand. Silicone or PTFE would have been a better choice, but I did not have any in that size, but as long as it can carry the current, and will not be disrupted by any environmental factors like heat or abrasion, most anything will work. If this was a signal conductor for high frequencies on a☺☺ PCB, the story would be a bit different, but power transmission tends to be very forgiving in that area. Great follow up question, and thank you for watching! 😊
@@xtendedgreg i looked at the control and there was a blowout just like in the video. thanks so much for sharing that video and for the response. i used a staple wire and that worked. 😀 not sure how long it will last but at least the dryer is working now. thanks again!
I had this same issue with our old 2007 Kenmore Elite from Sears today. I had ordered a "like new" replacement off of eBay and it arrived more damaged than my burnt one. I decided to look at solutions and found a video showing someone just doing a quick solder of the board where it clicks to turn on. When I went back to try it I couldn't find the video, it was just like 1.5 minutes. Anyway, I found this more intricate video and decided to try just soldering the little burnt hole in the back of the board. I pushed in as much solder as I could and made a good rounded spot on top. I tried it out and it worked. I am so glad I bought a $20 solder kit last year for a different project. I will now send back the defective one that was sent and go on with life, perhaps go kayaking on the lake.
Also, thank you sir for the nice video. Have a blessed day.
A little ingenuity goes a long way and enjoy your well deserved kayaking! I am glad you liked the video and thank you for watching! ☺️
Thank you so much! I had this same blowout with my Whirlpool dryer. I have never soldered before... bought a cheap kit off amazon and followed this video step-by-step. And the dryer is back up and running! Much thanks for the details and the close-up camera. You saved me a $300 technician visit!
Thank you, I am glad you liked the video!🙂
I noticed that your eyes never blink. Are you an AI bot?
01101110 01101111 --err, I mean no😋. Actually, that is really funny because I never noticed that before in the intro and outro on this video. I am not as it were, but I was still figuring a lot of stuff out at that point (and still am but am getting better), so the delivery is a bit flatter than my more recent stuff. If you subscribe and watch my live streams and other videos, I promise I blink more. Thanks for watching! 😊
Hi Greg, pardon my ignorance, I'm new to soldering. Why did you need to add the jumper? Would you have been able to just solder the relay in as is?
It was because the solder pad PCB for the relay had been damaged and fell off so there was no conductive surface to hold the solder. Instead of trying to tie the connection into the trace part way, I choose to jumper the connections so that the current that it was handling would not cause any heat in the connection and potentially de-solder it. Going directly from the pin to the next pin makes a good electrical connection that is also secure since it provides more surface area for a good connection with greater resilience mechanically, since the board being in a dryer is subject to vibration while in use. Great question, and thank you for watching!😊
what type of jumper wire is used? can any kind of wire be used as connector?
@@seaquest2681 Technically any wire can be used, but because this was a dryer, I used a conductor taken from an SJOOW cable because it has a higher temperature rating, was the appropriate gauge for the current, and was what I had on hand. Silicone or PTFE would have been a better choice, but I did not have any in that size, but as long as it can carry the current, and will not be disrupted by any environmental factors like heat or abrasion, most anything will work. If this was a signal conductor for high frequencies on a☺☺ PCB, the story would be a bit different, but power transmission tends to be very forgiving in that area. Great follow up question, and thank you for watching! 😊
@@xtendedgreg i looked at the control and there was a blowout just like in the video. thanks so much for sharing that video and for the response. i used a staple wire and that worked. 😀 not sure how long it will last but at least the dryer is working now. thanks again!
This helped my Maytag maxima dryer !
Glad to hear it was helpful, and thanks for watching! 😊