Awesome. This makes my port hole bore job feel like nothing. Thank you for putting the time in to these videos; I'm soaking it all up. I've learned more about my FAL in the past week than I have in my 9 months of total ownership. "Ask me how I know"... yes, a farrier has nail scars in his palms, fingers, and thighs, obtained the same way. :-)
Great video thanks for doing it. I recently won a auction on the files for a light Barrel kit with a dsa receiver and Barrel. This is the first kit I have ever built that didn't have an original Barrel.
FWIW ... we’ve recently determined the gas port size for an AR15 Dissipator barrel is best started at .107 and this worked perfectly for the Gulf Coast Texas climate however for colder locations .110 would possibly be in order. This is on a true Dissipator using the gas location at factory rifle length barrel of .625 (pencil barrel) diameter. Quite possible the .106 or .107 is nowadays actually best for the larger caliber FAL rifle barrel too and most likely due to modern powders being used as opposed to the smaller .98 hole required for the gunpowders used when the FAL was first produced. Just wanted to add that here in case it ever becomes useful. 👍
I made some ak barrel component press plate and its what i used to remove my gas block, supports the ring close to the barrel and use some blocks to support the sight, most of the force will be on the "ring" worked perfect
Thank you so much . This helped me a lot . I do have one problem. You keep saying high rpm . I’m not sure you’re supposed to drill hardened steel with high rpm . I always though you drill with the lowest rpm you have and use cutting fluid.
the gas block is deferentially hardened. Sometimes when parkerized you will see a half cirular dark spot around the front of the block where the plug fits in and it is induction hardened. The rest is not.
That is correct and a good observation. I recommend that you put something in the barrel to prevent gouging the rifling on the opposite side. I should have noted that. But after having drilled (literally) 1000+ gas ports, I know what length to chuck the drill bit, so that the drill's hand chuck hits the front sight ears before the bit can contact the bottom of the rifling.
Let's say I want to go through with this, where do you get your drill bits from? A cursory search reveals little in the way of sources for carbide bits in specific sizes like .106".
Why would you not use the mill to drill the gas port hole? Lock the quill and feed up the table and your risk of breaking a bit is reduced to almost nill. In fact, why not use the mill to drill all the holes?
Any machine tool supply. Try "The Yard Store". And there is nothing random about them. if you put a 1/4" pin in a 1/4" hole, it will fall out. The hole needs to be a few thousandths of an inch smaller, or the pin a few thou larger. This is called an "interference" fit. Understanding is critical when dealing with any firearms that uses pins for retention. From a historical perspective, you will now see coil pins or split pins - they weren't invented until 1947? so that's why they aren't found on guns designed in 1952. They just weren't a thing (yet)
Awesome. This makes my port hole bore job feel like nothing. Thank you for putting the time in to these videos; I'm soaking it all up. I've learned more about my FAL in the past week than I have in my 9 months of total ownership. "Ask me how I know"... yes, a farrier has nail scars in his palms, fingers, and thighs, obtained the same way. :-)
I sent my Imbel FAL Inch Pattern to Mark to complete some work on. He did a terrific job at a fair price.
Thank you Mark for taking the time to show us this procedure. 👍
Thank you for an informative and well made video. I look forward to the next one.
Fantastic work Mark! Perfect timing on the video upload too!
Thank you for sharing your expertise. I would have not caught bent threads on the alignment post!
Great video thanks for doing it. I recently won a auction on the files for a light Barrel kit with a dsa receiver and Barrel. This is the first kit I have ever built that didn't have an original Barrel.
Just bought the Argentine upper you guys had for sale. I can't wait to use it.
Nicely done. Oh, how do you know? NM, I know how you know, ask me how I know, lol.
Nice. Now I wish I could time travel with this video and show it to a few months younger me, before I WECSOGed my barrel.
WECSOG?
@@seibertsmiths Wiley E. Coyote School Of Gunsmithing
Thank you for this, nice to see what it takes for you to build our dream rifles
nice one.. mark t
Awsome video!!!
FWIW ... we’ve recently determined the gas port size for an AR15 Dissipator barrel is best started at .107 and this worked perfectly for the Gulf Coast Texas climate however for colder locations .110 would possibly be in order. This is on a true Dissipator using the gas location at factory rifle length barrel of .625 (pencil barrel) diameter. Quite possible the .106 or .107 is nowadays actually best for the larger caliber FAL rifle barrel too and most likely due to modern powders being used as opposed to the smaller .98 hole required for the gunpowders used when the FAL was first produced. Just wanted to add that here in case it ever becomes useful. 👍
Starter bits:
1/8" for GB retaining pin hole
3/16" for handguard bolt hole
Excellent, highly informative video. Do you ever use techniques like a heat gun to help persuade a stuck gas block off a barrel?
I made some ak barrel component press plate and its what i used to remove my gas block, supports the ring close to the barrel and use some blocks to support the sight, most of the force will be on the "ring" worked perfect
Thank you so much . This helped me a lot . I do have one problem. You keep saying high rpm . I’m not sure you’re supposed to drill hardened steel with high rpm . I always though you drill with the lowest rpm you have and use cutting fluid.
the gas block is deferentially hardened. Sometimes when parkerized you will see a half cirular dark spot around the front of the block where the plug fits in and it is induction hardened.
The rest is not.
When you made the final gasport drill you didn't have a brass rod in the barrel to protect the bottom of the barrel when the drill punch through?????
That is correct and a good observation. I recommend that you put something in the barrel to prevent gouging the rifling on the opposite side. I should have noted that.
But after having drilled (literally) 1000+ gas ports, I know what length to chuck the drill bit, so that the drill's hand chuck hits the front sight ears before the bit can contact the bottom of the rifling.
Let's say I want to go through with this, where do you get your drill bits from? A cursory search reveals little in the way of sources for carbide bits in specific sizes like .106".
Cobalt
The Yard Store . com
Why would you not use the mill to drill the gas port hole? Lock the quill and feed up the table and your risk of breaking a bit is reduced to almost nill. In fact, why not use the mill to drill all the holes?
watch it again, where I address that.
where do you find bits in these random diameter sizes?
Any machine tool supply. Try "The Yard Store". And there is nothing random about them. if you put a 1/4" pin in a 1/4" hole, it will fall out. The hole needs to be a few thousandths of an inch smaller, or the pin a few thou larger. This is called an "interference" fit. Understanding is critical when dealing with any firearms that uses pins for retention.
From a historical perspective, you will now see coil pins or split pins - they weren't invented until 1947? so that's why they aren't found on guns designed in 1952. They just weren't a thing (yet)