I started off doing new coil overs, then I noticed my CV joint boot was ripped. So I bought a new CV shaft. I used a pickle fork to remove the lower ball joint and shredded its boot. I went to the store and bought a new Lower ball joint. I attempted to install it but I destroyed its boot.. I got a replacement for free. I got the correct Honda adapter kit and will try again tomorrow, Sunday. I spent 12 hours today running around getting parts and tools . Good times
Not every job goes smoothly, I did a plumbing job yesterday, the 2 low flow faucets were more difficult than l was expecting, had to replace the 2 kitchen stops, the kitchen faucet, after like an hour I finally told them it makes no sense for me trying to fix it. I brough a ton of extra's for "just in case" and I needed most of it. Everything in the end worked out, but my 2 hour quote was off by 50%, and of course, you can't really charge more. Focusing on the positives, I have a new customer that will offer me word of mouth advertising, and I also got a video on how to trouble shoot a faucet with low flow on one side!
Update: I screwed up the 2nd ball joint and decided to take it to mechanic shop and have them do it. I had them install the upper (~$60 for upper ball joint) and lower ball joints in the upper control arm and wheel hub ($40). I was reassembling the suspension then broke an old caliper bolt that goes into the sliding pin ($20).. I quickly bought a new one and installed it. Did an oil and oil filter change. Reassembled and torqued everything and wheels on the ground by 6:15pm Sunday. Last steps is replacing the passenger side coil over then alignment and then profit. lol 😊
Thank you! My 1999 Honda Accord was making a terrible noise when I turned to the left or the right. I thought "Probably just a bad rubber bushing". I guess I didn't think much about it because I had a mechanic replace the axels not to long before this started happening. It made this noise for over a year until one day as I was going around a round-a-bout "POP", the right lower ball joint separated! I had to replace the axel and the lower ball joint. I was thankful I was not on the highway when it broke and by the way, the noise is totally gone now.
Thanks for your comment, yes leaving it long enough the ball will eventually break through the housing. After the driver side was replaced l knew what the problem was on the passenger side. Thank god you werent in an accident!
17:24 NO. Don't loosen the nut to get the cotter pin in. You must always tighten a little more to get to the next hole. You mentioned torque but I didn't see your torque wrench in action.
Thanks for your comment, if you tighten the nut as much as you can but cant get the cotter pin in, do you leave it out? Loosening it to the next hole wont change anything. For the left ball joint that I had my Honda mech do because I didnt know about tool rental, he didnt even put a cotter pin or wire or anything in. I wasnt happy about it. As for torque, I tigthened the nut to the previous dirt pattern, I have asked about two dozen mechs and all have said they dont torque anything. I was surprised to say the least.
@@HomeownerDIY ur not spos to tighten as much as u can, ur spos to tighten til it gets hard to turn the nut, then tighten a bit more to get the hole lined up, ur not spos to loosen to line it up
@@Theohaddadi I go to the store tell them what I need. The reference or check is when I took the old one out. If you take out the old one and can go to the store, compare the two at the store. In my ignition coil video, l talk about bringing the heater hose to compare the new and old. In the video I show how l compared the new and old ones before install. Hope that helps.
Thanks for your question, I am in Canada, the store here I got them from is called Canadian Tire. Assuming youre in the US, I would say call O Reillys or any of the automotive suppliers. Also try construction tool rental places as they may also have automotive tools.
Thanks for your question, no you dont need an alignment. This part of the suspension system. Replacing the steering rack or tie rods, which is part of the steering system, then yes you would need an alignment.
I can't believe Honda actually presses them in lmaaoooo, I came from MK4 VW which are supposed to be "oh no its German, impossible to work on" and the ball joints were literally just 3 bolts. Idk wtf everybody talking about Hondas are easy 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Replacing them is cheap enough ! You can replace them with Phipps heads if desired ! If there corroded into the rotor a jis driver will be better but a Philips will still get the job done. Your screws were not corroded at all , very clean !
@@dkdragoncarmine8046 lve had my Civic since 2008. I have taken good care of it. If l notice something needs attention l am on top of it. Only 16,000km/10,000 miles till l hit my goal of 400,000km/250,000 miles.
Soo much uneccary work u doing.. u only have to take the nut off the cv joint and the nut to the balljoint and the bracket so you can take the balljoint out. You use alot of heat to take the old one out and then just put the new back in. So u only have to take 2 nuts away for this job.
Yes l reused the cotter pin. No you shouldnt reuse it, l agree. Atleast its not as bad as my Honda mech leaving out the cotter pin on the cassle nut for the tie rod when my one drive shaft was replaced.
I started off doing new coil overs, then I noticed my CV joint boot was ripped. So I bought a new CV shaft. I used a pickle fork to remove the lower ball joint and shredded its boot. I went to the store and bought a new Lower ball joint. I attempted to install it but I destroyed its boot.. I got a replacement for free. I got the correct Honda adapter kit and will try again tomorrow, Sunday. I spent 12 hours today running around getting parts and tools . Good times
Not every job goes smoothly, I did a plumbing job yesterday, the 2 low flow faucets were more difficult than l was expecting, had to replace the 2 kitchen stops, the kitchen faucet, after like an hour I finally told them it makes no sense for me trying to fix it. I brough a ton of extra's for "just in case" and I needed most of it. Everything in the end worked out, but my 2 hour quote was off by 50%, and of course, you can't really charge more. Focusing on the positives, I have a new customer that will offer me word of mouth advertising, and I also got a video on how to trouble shoot a faucet with low flow on one side!
Update: I screwed up the 2nd ball joint and decided to take it to mechanic shop and have them do it. I had them install the upper (~$60 for upper ball joint) and lower ball joints in the upper control arm and wheel hub ($40). I was reassembling the suspension then broke an old caliper bolt that goes into the sliding pin ($20).. I quickly bought a new one and installed it. Did an oil and oil filter change. Reassembled and torqued everything and wheels on the ground by 6:15pm Sunday.
Last steps is replacing the passenger side coil over then alignment and then profit. lol 😊
@@codyt.346 Look at it as: What you learned on this job, you will apply to the next one!
Thank you! My 1999 Honda Accord was making a terrible noise when I turned to the left or the right. I thought "Probably just a bad rubber bushing". I guess I didn't think much about it because I had a mechanic replace the axels not to long before this started happening. It made this noise for over a year until one day as I was going around a round-a-bout "POP", the right lower ball joint separated! I had to replace the axel and the lower ball joint. I was thankful I was not on the highway when it broke and by the way, the noise is totally gone now.
Thanks for your comment, yes leaving it long enough the ball will eventually break through the housing. After the driver side was replaced l knew what the problem was on the passenger side. Thank god you werent in an accident!
Thank you for this detailed video. Yes with the right tools it seems feasible.
This job wasnt that bad to do. My one suggestion is, dont be in a rush.
@@HomeownerDIYThank you for your good advice ;-)
Thanks for the video bro. This helped me a lot
17:24 NO. Don't loosen the nut to get the cotter pin in. You must always tighten a little more to get to the next hole. You mentioned torque but I didn't see your torque wrench in action.
Thanks for your comment, if you tighten the nut as much as you can but cant get the cotter pin in, do you leave it out? Loosening it to the next hole wont change anything. For the left ball joint that I had my Honda mech do because I didnt know about tool rental, he didnt even put a cotter pin or wire or anything in. I wasnt happy about it.
As for torque, I tigthened the nut to the previous dirt pattern, I have asked about two dozen mechs and all have said they dont torque anything. I was surprised to say the least.
@@HomeownerDIY ur not spos to tighten as much as u can, ur spos to tighten til it gets hard to turn the nut, then tighten a bit more to get the hole lined up, ur not spos to loosen to line it up
@@Bimmer-Fonz Thanks for your comment, this topic has already been covered. Please refer to the comments.
@@HomeownerDIY ua-cam.com/video/C-6QVu-kURM/v-deo.html
@@davidhinton3595 Thanks for the link, l will keep this in mind for next time.
Awesome job, bro. Thanks!
Do you need an alignment after replacing the ball joint?
Thanks for your question, no you dont. You need an alignment when you replace either the tie rods or steering rack(which include tie rods)
11:46 for actual ball joint removal
No retaining clips on the factory ones?
Thanks for your question, with this model, what you see is you what you get.
What was the reference of the new ball join ?
Im sorry I dont understand, what do you mean reference?
@@HomeownerDIY I mean the number when you bought it
(I was wondering whats was the diameter of the ball joint. My 1999 ek3 got a bad ball joint)
@@Theohaddadi I go to the store tell them what I need. The reference or check is when I took the old one out. If you take out the old one and can go to the store, compare the two at the store. In my ignition coil video, l talk about bringing the heater hose to compare the new and old. In the video I show how l compared the new and old ones before install. Hope that helps.
Do you know the size of the Honda ball joint adapters?
Thanks for your question, what do you mean by size? Diameter or length?
What’s is the diameter of the installation tube
@@mccoyleger Thanks for your question, I cant find any info for a diameter.
Just for reference for any one autozone part number 27164 is the adapter you’ll need
What store did you borrow the specialty tools from?
Thanks for your question, I am in Canada, the store here I got them from is called Canadian Tire. Assuming youre in the US, I would say call O Reillys or any of the automotive suppliers. Also try construction tool rental places as they may also have automotive tools.
@@HomeownerDIY alright thanks that helps a lot I need to replace my ball joints soon
So basically I need to get an alignment after all this ?
Thanks for your question, no you dont need an alignment. This part of the suspension system.
Replacing the steering rack or tie rods, which is part of the steering system, then yes you would need an alignment.
How do you say your channel? But good video bruh
Homeowner Do It Yourself(DIY)
I can't believe Honda actually presses them in lmaaoooo, I came from MK4 VW which are supposed to be "oh no its German, impossible to work on" and the ball joints were literally just 3 bolts. Idk wtf everybody talking about Hondas are easy 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I agree 100%! If it wasnt for the ball joint press that l got from loan a tool. This job wouldnt be practical to DIY.
German trash 😂😂😂
@@JoeMama-j7s my MK4 VWs were 10000x easier to work on than any Honda I've had. Just cause you're too stupid to figure it out doesn't make it junk.
Yo I want that cluster!
You can probably pull one from a car in a wrecker.
@@HomeownerDIY I want a km/h and over here it’s all mph
@@nic3guyeddie See if you can find something online.
THESE ARE NOT PHILIPS SCREW HOLDING THE ROTOR THER ARE JIS (Japanese industrial standard) #3 … using a Philips causes damage to the screw head
Thanks for your comment, l didnt damage them either time l took off the rotor, but if l do, l will just replace them and use a phillips again.
Replacing them is cheap enough ! You can replace them with Phipps heads if desired ! If there corroded into the rotor a jis driver will be better but a Philips will still get the job done. Your screws were not corroded at all , very clean !
@@dkdragoncarmine8046 lve had my Civic since 2008. I have taken good care of it. If l notice something needs attention l am on top of it. Only 16,000km/10,000 miles till l hit my goal of 400,000km/250,000 miles.
That is the most dangerous way to raise you car.
Feel free to raise the car the way you feel comfortable.
Soo much uneccary work u doing.. u only have to take the nut off the cv joint and the nut to the balljoint and the bracket so you can take the balljoint out. You use alot of heat to take the old one out and then just put the new back in. So u only have to take 2 nuts away for this job.
Thanks for your comment,l followed the procedure my Honda mechanic used when he did the oppose side.
dude seriously reusing the cotter pin?! come on bro.
Yes l reused the cotter pin. No you shouldnt reuse it, l agree. Atleast its not as bad as my Honda mech leaving out the cotter pin on the cassle nut for the tie rod when my one drive shaft was replaced.