Honestly I think it would be cool to see a “beginner’s guide to antique swords” as well. I have a few very nice replicas, but I’d be interested in picking up a nice antique military sabre or back sword.
At 26:06, I had a "Wait a minute" moment that prompted me to look through some old catalogs I had. The description for the saber is word-for-word copied from Cold Steel's "Lynn Thompson's Special Projects" Fall 2010 issue (which did not label the product as an officer's sword) with the exception of the short second paragraph. In the original catalog, the second paragraph reads "After examining and handling a number of original 1860 Heavy Cavalry Sabers, we decided to make our own reproduction with a few improvements. Our blade is made from 1055 carbon steel with a hard spring temper and will pass the British Proof Test."
Ah this is always a useful topic to cover, and can be updated as the market fluctuates. Kudos Matt! Thanks for showcasing so many production models in one place. Certainly a lot of common questions addressed here.
quite an enjoyable watch, interesting that theres such a selection available that arent just "wall hangers" would be very interested to see a follow up video in the same vein covering £300-£400 or so
1:45 for anybody looking for a spearhead, LK Chen has a swallowtail spearhead for $50 which is really rather nice. Matt's already done videos on a few of their swords. It's not sharpened, but the edge geometry is such that 20 minutes with a sharpening implement of your choosing and you could split hairs with it if you chose to try cutting something instead of just stabbing it. Carbon steel, so remember to keep it oiled.
@@thedamnyankee1 It is! I've got it mounted on a nice wax wood haft with a red tassel. Looks great, if a little short at ~92"; otoh, that's about the same length as my competition length spear, though, so practice translates.
I was SO excited to learn that the Windlass 1906 is basically an 1860 with distal taper and almost bought one immediately! Then I pulled out my Windlass 1860 and lo! It has a clear distal taper to it too!
@@Retro-Future-Land Good, I guess - I've never held an original for comparison. Definitely more blade presence than what I have experience handling (Munich sword, rapiers). I recently acquired a WW1 era British Artillery saber and it's similar; a bit lighter in the hand, but that may be due to the thumb on top grip, which is not as positive with the '60
I too wish that there were more historical tachi reproduction, I find them more interesting than the more mainstream katana, or I’d love to see some “handachi” reproductions as well, great video!
Can recommend the Cobra steel line from windlass, sharp out of the box, fun and definitely functional. Own 5 of them, all stainless steel but tough none the less, one of them was not straight out of the box so took it to the workshop where I work and tried to straighten it, bent it 90 degrees, and it just flexed right back, ended up buying another one which was straight. Will keep the bent one to rehilt am put some wood scales on it, and try to straighten it with a sledgehammer once I can lay it flat on my work bench For around 60 euro it didn't feel like much of an issue. The models I own are kindjal, kopis, falcata, 2 lakonia
Regarding The Knight Shop's own brand, Red Dragon, there are a few points I'd like to make both in favour of, and against, this applies to their steel reproduction swords only. I have experience with three Red Dragons, and the same pros and cons seem to apply to them all. Pros; They look excellent, frankly, considering the price point. They are remarkably affordable. They come with wooden cored, leather wrapped, or plain leather scabbards included in the price. Some are reasonably Historically authentic, including their method of construction. In short, they make wonderful wall hangers, and I'm sure the sharp versions are just fine for light to medium test cutting, and waving about, however this brings me onto the cons. Cons; The blade steel doesn't appear to be of ideal quality, on the examples I've handled and worked on, the blades have been rather too soft at the edges, allowing rolling, burring and large, deep, denting, though bear in mind that is in the context of hard combat and hard cutting. They have a tendency to be rather forward heavy, even if their total weight is not too much, this isn't a problem precisely, and for test cutting it can be advantageous, having such mass in the blade, however it does rather hamper their agility, and one's ability to react with the sword. The hilt fittings have something of an inclination to come loose or move, upon those which I have worked, the guards have been loose, the grips have been cracked or loose, and the pommels have been twisted on the tang. Finally for the misery section, two of the three I know have snapped at the junction between the tang and the base of the blade, when disassembled, it became clear that stress cracks had formed due to metal fatigue. Remember that these swords have been put through hard use, however, several Armour Classes and Fabri Armorums of around the same price have been through similar treatment, for far longer, without any of the faults noted above. In summary, Red Dragons are lovely items to look at, handle being waved about just fine, and can cut water bottles as well as any other. If, however, you intend to use a blunt one in full contact combat, or expect a sharp one to stand up to heavy cutting against wood for instance, then I would advise that you may be disappointed. Please understand that I can only speak from personal experience, and that I do not try to disparage Red Dragon or The Knight Shop, but am trying to best advise those who may be reading upon whether or not a Red Dragon is suitable for one's requirements.
Please do more videos like this? It would be fun seeing your take on higher end swords, and HEMA gear in different price brackets Not that I can afford it anyway, I just want to see your take on it!
Regarding the 'Functional Arming Sword', a while back I got a similarly cheap 'limited stock' windlass sabre from KS. Turns out it was Frankensteined together from other parts, presumably overstock, which I think explains the cheap price. Actually a really good sword for the price. I assume the arming sword is the same story.
Thank you, Mr. Easton, for being a wealth of information and good judgment WITHOUT being a "snob" about the topic. This makes you one of the rarest species on all of the internet. 😄
When I practised martial arts, me and my mate bought katanas, I’m 6’ and 15 stone, he’s about 5’9 and 12 stone, I decided to go for a cold steel practical Katana and he went for a Hanwei practical katana, the cold steel, being a larger sword, suits me perfect, a bit heavy, but I’m not a small guy, and it’s one hell of a cutter. The Hanwei, whilst being a third of the price of the Cold Steel, was, well, bloody awful. I ordered them from the same supplier and my mate was gutted when he got it, first thing he said, I should’ve got the cold steel one. The quality of the Hanwei is very poor, I think it was around £150 and the cold steel was £450, but, you really can’t compare them, this was over 15 years ago though
I've had the Greek hoplite sword since 2005 and it was used in cutting practice a few times against soft targets, it cut really well for a short sword. It has a broad but thin blade especially near the edge, and from what a friend did to his against a hard target (crow beaked it badly) it has be used against softer targets and avoid hitting steel with it. And the point on this is most likely made for stabbing through the openings in a helmet as it's hellishly long. A great sword for a sidearm, but I wouldn't destroy it in an armoured fight. Cool review!
Can confirm the Oakeshott type XIV from Windlass is a good little sword. It's a little chonkier than it needs to be and has a secondary bevel, but otherwise feels great in the hand.
Just ordered one a couple days ago as my first sword. Came to about $480 CAD shipped but from what Matt had said in his video, it's quite a good reproduction of something you'd expect to find historically. The Windlass Royal Armory Collection was about $800 before tax and shipping but who knows, if I get addicted to swords like I've become addicted to knives and guns, I'll probably grab one of those as well.
15:00 I have this sword, feels great, POB is around 11cm. The only two negative points are the handle is a bit bigger (wider) than the one on the XIV and feels weird to me and the sheath is very cheap. But the blade itself is great! It rings like a bell and feels very lively. I have not had time to sharpen it, but I bet its a very good cutter! If anyone has this example too I´d be interested how you like it. It seems to be an almost 1:1 copy of the Cold Steel Norman Sword (I have seen it advertised as norman, not viking). 19:04 this one has a lot of weird info out there, I have read the weight is wrong. It seems to be 1,45kg if you look on windlass homepage and I have seen a review remarking it was too heavy
Matt, I own the single handed Renaissance sword featured at 58 minutes in this video. I purchased it about 10 years ago for stage combat at the southern california Renaissance faire. I purchased it through museum replicas and it was listed as a windlass steelcrafts production. I still have it. It is nice but the blade edge did not hold up well to blunt edge on edge sparring. It seems a bit soft. Was thinking about trying to clean it up and a cutting edge to it. Love the style of the hilt. Also have that windlass Longsword with ring gaurd. The blade is whippy but it looks very nice .
You should add an extra section to your Antique Arms website selling the best non-antiques. I went to your site looking for an antique sword to use in combat and unfortunately wasn't tempted by anything, but I would've happily bought a non-antique if that had been an option and you recommended it
Really worthwhile video, I don't collect anymore, and when i did it was largely 19thC, but I always dreamt of owning a medieval sword, but good replicas just weren't around 40 odd years ago, ( or if they were I was unaware) but if I were collecting again I think I'd just have replicas as I never bought because they were antiques, they were things I like the look of and could afford.
The Black Marauder is essentially the same sword as Wesley's sword from The Princess Bride. A few years after Windlass lost the license for Princess Bride they changed the pommel, blackened the hilt & blade & released it as the Black Maurader. I REALLY wanted one as I have a dagger by windlass that is a perfect match but in the US the only place 5hat sold it was Windlass's Amazon store (even MRL wasn't selling them) They have been sold out for over a year with no indication more will come 😕
Hello Matt. I have mentioned before, but the professional longsword from blades UK, is a pretty decent sword, ( I also have two regenyei long swords to compare it by).
I can remember looking at blades uk through a dodgy proxy website on the IT class computers when I was in secondary school and it literally hasn't changed and that was just shy of 20 years ago so saying it could do with an update is a considerable understatement lol
The confederate cavalry saber that you don’t recognize, I believe it’s supposed to be a remake of a Nashville plow works saber, which was modeled off of some sort of American dragoon saber. If I remember correctly, this sword was popular during the Mexican American war, and also popular with the Texas rangers for some reason I’m pulling all this from memory.
I have the Italian bastard sword in blunt and undamaged. Even blunt its a lovely sword in the hand to swing about, lovely balance. Appears to have some distal taper but my eyes could be being tricked by how its been ground. I even got it after seeing Matts video on how modern hema blades have longer grips than historical ones and hoped itd help me drill more correctly. I have small hands so the hilt works fine for me two handed. I also have the tinker pearce(pierce?) Blunt longsword and idk if its because its blunt but its a lump with awful balance.
Great video The only thing I will say if I might is that I have contacted the Knight shop On numerous occasions via email-and they have never replied which is a shame
What do u think about the Duna Duna Sword - 10th Century Ulfberht Viking Sword - Deepeeka sold buy kult of Athena I’m looking to buy a decent Viking sword that basic no elaborate engraving or nothing
Went in thinking I didn't need a sword . Always thought they were awesome . But now I'm thinking it could be fun for the next camping trip . But now I know what's good or bad. Thx
I have wanted a weapon and I never knew exactly where to start, probably a Longsword or American Saber that is sharp, usable, and reasonably priced, this vid has been somewhat enlightening, thanks
Depending on what you want it for why not go with a big dagger or knife? Mora Scorpion is decent but i had problems with the beltloop of the sheeth. The long one of cudeman is quite nice too. todcutler is probably good too but i haven`t tested them (bauernwehr and others). Tramontina Machetes are nice but you need to sharpen them yourself and the sheeths, well you`ll see.
My first thought was why not gladius, spatha, xiphos or shorter bladed swords like a hunting sword or langseax. Windlass has a Laconia spartan sword that is more historical and would fit the price better than a movie replica
I have an antique Btitish 1821 cavalry saber and a few of the Windlass cavalry sabers (the American Revolution and the 1906... they don't make it anymore, or at least offer it on US websites, but it's the same blade as the 1860 "Heavy". The distal taper stats you saw on that one on Southern Swords are NOT what mine have. Not saying they might not have changed, I just got mine years and years ago. Anyway, they handle quite similarly, actually. The distal taper is not quite the same as the antique obviously, but I don't personally find them drastically different. Hope that's helpful.
Would there be any demand for unfinished blades? If people are interested in that they should make the demand known. The blade is hard to do without equipment but it tends to not be even half of the labor. If there was a demand I'm sure someone would produce kits. Hell if I made more knives I would. It's a way to get something a lot better for your money.
Agreed, these are basic swords and fittings. Time Team did an episode on a hoard of gold and jeweled fittings, stripped from their blades. Kings, nobles, bishops and such had posh custom made stuff. Even the professional knight wanted their weapons exactly right for them. They were showoffs!
Thank you Matt, another informative video looks like I will be saving up for the Oakeshott type XIV at first then looking at a cutlas windless seem to do a few options you recommended the Dutch East India Co Cutlass but I'm wondering if I spent a little more maybe I'd get a better option there to. Maybe we need a video on swords £200 to £300? The Dutch East India Co Cutlass looks a right handed only weapon were all Cutlass right handed?
Hi Matt, Great video first of all. May I ask what you think of the colichemarde sword from Deepeeka? I love to have a colichemarde/smallsword and this one is very reasonable priced. But i don’t know if the quality is good for the money. That’s why i’m asking the expert 🤣.
Thanks for making that video. Will be interesting video to watch for sure despite the fact the region which I am from ( continental Europe) is not specially mentioned.
Hey Matt Our 1595 club has a rolling thread about equipment and as a newbie, I’m having a heck of a time finding decent steel military Sabres for HEMA They tend to be too light, and usually sold out
@@scholagladiatoria Thanks Matt Bang, done. (And yes, Smallsword needs more HEMA love. My significant other would like to join in but she requires a very lightweight sword, such as Smallsword) -- Blade Type: Wedge shaped “gymnasium” style with radius, strong Blade Length: 85 cm Depth of the radius at widest point: 2-3 cm Width of the blade at the crossbar: 25 mm Tip: Back-rolled Guard: 11.5 cm perforated pattern bell guard Distance from grip to guard: 6 cm Grip Type: Oval with sloped heel Grip Length (including pommel): 14 cm Grip Covering: Black cord wrap (other colors available by special order) Pommel: Hexagonal screw pommel Weight: Approximately 915 grams Point of balance: Approximately 13 cm from the crossbar
What happened historically when someone messed up in the production of making a weapon or piece of armor? Did they just throw it out, or were there discount things being sold?
I loved this video and I know this may sound crazy but I live in a rain forest in the USA and do a lot of brush clearing in the mountains I live in. I use a machete most of the time cutting small 1 to 3 inch thick trees and vines to keep my bigger trees alive by giving them space. I can ruin a machete in 2 days if its cheap. Out of these swords you'r talking about do you think these could stand up to that type of abuse ? I've had both 1 and 2 handed machetes . The heavier 2 handed take a lot of energy out of you but can cut through much thicker brush . It's like being in battle all day but no-ones hacking at you. Although most of the vines have thorns so Im usually bleeding in many areas.It would be great to use a regular 1 or 2 handed sword to keep in shape with a sword.So what do you think would be my best option?
i reckon a petrol power brush cutter would do the job . a sword is not designed for what you want it for . perhaps try cold steel , they have plenty overbuilt sharp steel bars they call swords
I have the Red Dragon Temple Church sword (actually it was my first medieval sword). Since I don't do cutting, I bought it as a wallhanger and as such I think it's alright for the price point. But I will say that the blade is rather floppy, and there is a distinct click in the guard when I turn it so that the flat of the blade is aligned horizontally. Also some of the corners are very sharp. Mine has little to no distal taper.
With regard to The Knight Shops reviews - I have never seen something rated poorly, and I have left a 3* review on an item which is still listed but without the review. I'm not saying shenanigans took place, but I would be wary of trusting the reviews there. Definitely seek outside advice on a line before purchasing if possible.
The black marauder "rapier" is 1065 & its built rather decent. Its definitely blunt but will take an edge. Id say the reason they didnt want to sharpen would be b/c the blade is blackened. However I used it & its held up ok for the $ considering what i bought it for.
A monumental work of sword review which will be useful for generations of sword guide seekers. I'll look out among your videos if there are any that explain stainless steel. It's a magical material albeit maybe stiff for a sword?
As a friend of several American blade smiths and an occasional student of weapons, most weapon grade blades in the U.S. cost more $200. Admittedly there are sword shaped steel items that are essentially stamped and sharpened low grade spring steel available and big box stores. Personally, I have paid over two hundred dollars for my manufactured chiefs Knife .
One thing I've been wondering is whether there is any 1796 LCS or 1811 Blücher replica or inspired chopper that has a decent compromise of price & quality
Windlass Oak short Type XIIa is NOT from Kingdom of Heaven. It is nearly the same as the sword used by the main character Balian but when the movie was out Museum Replicas had both this sword & the sword of Balian 8n the catalog at the same time! I prefer this sword because the Balian sword had a translucent red cross in the pommel which by it's design meant the tang couldn't extend through the pommel so it was just a tang nub at the base the pommel screwed on to.
are there any american brands or styles you do recommend more consistently than the longswords or the athena ones that you mentioned? it didn't seem like there was much of anything in the north american market that you felt very confident in recommending here.
I actually have the 1850 union staff and field saber from windlass. It was the first real sword I bought. It's decent but as far as distal taper its pretty much just a flat piece of steel. This definitely makes it feel worse in the hand than it could. Later I removed some material from the lenticular section towards the tip and it started moving much much better. It's held up very well over the years, my only other complaint would be the wire wrap on the hilt was done poorly.
An hour long video? On swords? The podcast we all needed.
Honestly I think it would be cool to see a “beginner’s guide to antique swords” as well. I have a few very nice replicas, but I’d be interested in picking up a nice antique military sabre or back sword.
At 26:06, I had a "Wait a minute" moment that prompted me to look through some old catalogs I had. The description for the saber is word-for-word copied from Cold Steel's "Lynn Thompson's Special Projects" Fall 2010 issue (which did not label the product as an officer's sword) with the exception of the short second paragraph. In the original catalog, the second paragraph reads "After examining and handling a number of original 1860 Heavy Cavalry Sabers, we decided to make our own reproduction with a few improvements. Our blade is made from 1055 carbon steel with a hard spring temper and will pass the British Proof Test."
Ah this is always a useful topic to cover, and can be updated as the market fluctuates. Kudos Matt! Thanks for showcasing so many production models in one place. Certainly a lot of common questions addressed here.
quite an enjoyable watch, interesting that theres such a selection available that arent just "wall hangers" would be very interested to see a follow up video in the same vein covering £300-£400 or so
Vein is on the side of the horse with the water drip on the left leg horse as the front 😭
1:45 for anybody looking for a spearhead, LK Chen has a swallowtail spearhead for $50 which is really rather nice. Matt's already done videos on a few of their swords.
It's not sharpened, but the edge geometry is such that 20 minutes with a sharpening implement of your choosing and you could split hairs with it if you chose to try cutting something instead of just stabbing it. Carbon steel, so remember to keep it oiled.
That is gorgeous.
@@thedamnyankee1 It is! I've got it mounted on a nice wax wood haft with a red tassel. Looks great, if a little short at ~92"; otoh, that's about the same length as my competition length spear, though, so practice translates.
If you're looking for a US/NA site's offerings in this video, the only one--I think--Kult of Athena starts at about 1:05:00
I was SO excited to learn that the Windlass 1906 is basically an 1860 with distal taper and almost bought one immediately! Then I pulled out my Windlass 1860 and lo! It has a clear distal taper to it too!
That's interesting to hear!
How does it handle?
@@Retro-Future-Land Good, I guess - I've never held an original for comparison. Definitely more blade presence than what I have experience handling (Munich sword, rapiers). I recently acquired a WW1 era British Artillery saber and it's similar; a bit lighter in the hand, but that may be due to the thumb on top grip, which is not as positive with the '60
I would love to see other videos on best weapons within certain price ranges, like a video on swords from the price range of $200-500
Very useful review! Thanks, Matt!
Love these videos by Schola!!
Kingdom of Heaven was for me, a very enjoyable film. Had the complete directors cut dvds as a teenager.
I too wish that there were more historical tachi reproduction, I find them more interesting than the more mainstream katana, or I’d love to see some “handachi” reproductions as well, great video!
I have the "professional longsword", its the Ronin Katana sword Euro #7 also sold as Battle Tested in the states. No complaints at all. Used it a lot.
Ah, I should've read further down before posting roughly the same comment. I also love my Euro #7 and thought that looked familiar!
Great video I would love to see you do one on axes, spears, short, sword, maybe even shields
Can recommend the Cobra steel line from windlass, sharp out of the box, fun and definitely functional.
Own 5 of them, all stainless steel but tough none the less, one of them was not straight out of the box so took it to the workshop where I work and tried to straighten it, bent it 90 degrees, and it just flexed right back, ended up buying another one which was straight. Will keep the bent one to rehilt am put some wood scales on it, and try to straighten it with a sledgehammer once I can lay it flat on my work bench
For around 60 euro it didn't feel like much of an issue. The models I own are kindjal, kopis, falcata, 2 lakonia
Matt building my Christmas list! Thank you!
Regarding The Knight Shop's own brand, Red Dragon, there are a few points I'd like to make both in favour of, and against, this applies to their steel reproduction swords only.
I have experience with three Red Dragons, and the same pros and cons seem to apply to them all.
Pros; They look excellent, frankly, considering the price point.
They are remarkably affordable.
They come with wooden cored, leather wrapped, or plain leather scabbards included in the price.
Some are reasonably Historically authentic, including their method of construction.
In short, they make wonderful wall hangers, and I'm sure the sharp versions are just fine for light to medium test cutting, and waving about, however this brings me onto the cons.
Cons;
The blade steel doesn't appear to be of ideal quality, on the examples I've handled and worked on, the blades have been rather too soft at the edges, allowing rolling, burring and large, deep, denting, though bear in mind that is in the context of hard combat and hard cutting.
They have a tendency to be rather forward heavy, even if their total weight is not too much, this isn't a problem precisely, and for test cutting it can be advantageous, having such mass in the blade, however it does rather hamper their agility, and one's ability to react with the sword.
The hilt fittings have something of an inclination to come loose or move, upon those which I have worked, the guards have been loose, the grips have been cracked or loose, and the pommels have been twisted on the tang.
Finally for the misery section, two of the three I know have snapped at the junction between the tang and the base of the blade, when disassembled, it became clear that stress cracks had formed due to metal fatigue.
Remember that these swords have been put through hard use, however, several Armour Classes and Fabri Armorums of around the same price have been through similar treatment, for far longer, without any of the faults noted above.
In summary, Red Dragons are lovely items to look at, handle being waved about just fine, and can cut water bottles as well as any other. If, however, you intend to use a blunt one in full contact combat, or expect a sharp one to stand up to heavy cutting against wood for instance, then I would advise that you may be disappointed.
Please understand that I can only speak from personal experience, and that I do not try to disparage Red Dragon or The Knight Shop, but am trying to best advise those who may be reading upon whether or not a Red Dragon is suitable for one's requirements.
This one was great. More like this please. Maybe in a slightly higher price category maybe £200-£500?
Do one for good historically accurate swords under $500
Please do more videos like this? It would be fun seeing your take on higher end swords, and HEMA gear in different price brackets
Not that I can afford it anyway, I just want to see your take on it!
Regarding the 'Functional Arming Sword', a while back I got a similarly cheap 'limited stock' windlass sabre from KS. Turns out it was Frankensteined together from other parts, presumably overstock, which I think explains the cheap price. Actually a really good sword for the price. I assume the arming sword is the same story.
Talking about recommendations, I would very much enjoy a video about recommended training models sorted by weapon type.
Hi Matt, I would love to see a similar video of swords between £250 and £350, please. 😊
Thank you, Mr. Easton, for being a wealth of information and good judgment WITHOUT being a "snob" about the topic. This makes you one of the rarest species on all of the internet. 😄
When I practised martial arts, me and my mate bought katanas, I’m 6’ and 15 stone, he’s about 5’9 and 12 stone, I decided to go for a cold steel practical Katana and he went for a Hanwei practical katana, the cold steel, being a larger sword, suits me perfect, a bit heavy, but I’m not a small guy, and it’s one hell of a cutter. The Hanwei, whilst being a third of the price of the Cold Steel, was, well, bloody awful. I ordered them from the same supplier and my mate was gutted when he got it, first thing he said, I should’ve got the cold steel one. The quality of the Hanwei is very poor, I think it was around £150 and the cold steel was £450, but, you really can’t compare them, this was over 15 years ago though
3:25 I see that clever advertising in the top left corner! Sneaky sneaky
I've had the Greek hoplite sword since 2005 and it was used in cutting practice a few times against soft targets, it cut really well for a short sword. It has a broad but thin blade especially near the edge, and from what a friend did to his against a hard target (crow beaked it badly) it has be used against softer targets and avoid hitting steel with it. And the point on this is most likely made for stabbing through the openings in a helmet as it's hellishly long. A great sword for a sidearm, but I wouldn't destroy it in an armoured fight. Cool review!
Where did you buy?
@@MR-nl8xr Can't remember. Long time ago!
@@osborne9255 Do you have recommendations for anywhere similar today?
Yes! That's what I've been waiting for! Can you do similar videos with different price ranges and possibly including EU?
Yes I can - please suggest some EU-based sellers.
@@scholagladiatoria Hi Matt!
"Swords and more",
"Outfit4events", "Battlemerchant" are some famous european resellers.
Can confirm the Oakeshott type XIV from Windlass is a good little sword. It's a little chonkier than it needs to be and has a secondary bevel, but otherwise feels great in the hand.
Just ordered one a couple days ago as my first sword. Came to about $480 CAD shipped but from what Matt had said in his video, it's quite a good reproduction of something you'd expect to find historically. The Windlass Royal Armory Collection was about $800 before tax and shipping but who knows, if I get addicted to swords like I've become addicted to knives and guns, I'll probably grab one of those as well.
15:00 I have this sword, feels great, POB is around 11cm. The only two negative points are the handle is a bit bigger (wider) than the one on the XIV and feels weird to me and the sheath is very cheap. But the blade itself is great! It rings like a bell and feels very lively. I have not had time to sharpen it, but I bet its a very good cutter! If anyone has this example too I´d be interested how you like it. It seems to be an almost 1:1 copy of the Cold Steel Norman Sword (I have seen it advertised as norman, not viking).
19:04 this one has a lot of weird info out there, I have read the weight is wrong. It seems to be 1,45kg if you look on windlass homepage and I have seen a review remarking it was too heavy
Matt, I own the single handed Renaissance sword featured at 58 minutes in this video. I purchased it about 10 years ago for stage combat at the southern california Renaissance faire. I purchased it through museum replicas and it was listed as a windlass steelcrafts production. I still have it. It is nice but the blade edge did not hold up well to blunt edge on edge sparring. It seems a bit soft. Was thinking about trying to clean it up and a cutting edge to it. Love the style of the hilt. Also have that windlass Longsword with ring gaurd. The blade is whippy but it looks very nice .
I have handled a couple Deepeeka swords. So far my opinion is they are crowbars shaped like swords.
You should add an extra section to your Antique Arms website selling the best non-antiques. I went to your site looking for an antique sword to use in combat and unfortunately wasn't tempted by anything, but I would've happily bought a non-antique if that had been an option and you recommended it
Really worthwhile video, I don't collect anymore, and when i did it was largely 19thC, but I always dreamt of owning a medieval sword, but good replicas just weren't around 40 odd years ago, ( or if they were I was unaware) but if I were collecting again I think I'd just have replicas as I never bought because they were antiques, they were things I like the look of and could afford.
The knight shop experience: out of stock, out of stock, out of stock. Think there's a reason why I might try and put up with borderforce.
The Black Marauder is essentially the same sword as Wesley's sword from The Princess Bride. A few years after Windlass lost the license for Princess Bride they changed the pommel, blackened the hilt & blade & released it as the Black Maurader. I REALLY wanted one as I have a dagger by windlass that is a perfect match but in the US the only place 5hat sold it was Windlass's Amazon store (even MRL wasn't selling them) They have been sold out for over a year with no indication more will come 😕
Hello Matt. I have mentioned before, but the professional longsword from blades UK, is a pretty decent sword, ( I also have two regenyei long swords to compare it by).
My beloved, the Renaissance Longsword, at 48 minutes! My first sword. Can confirm it's a hefty boy, but it still feels pretty nice and is gorgeous.
I've dealt with southern swords a few times and always been happy, would definitely recommend them.great video thanks Matt
The "professional longsword" around 1:02:00 looks exactly like my Ronin Katana European Model #7.
Does anyone have personal experience with the Windlass Dutch Cutlass from Southern Sword at 40:07? Keen to hear a bit more about it
I can remember looking at blades uk through a dodgy proxy website on the IT class computers when I was in secondary school and it literally hasn't changed and that was just shy of 20 years ago so saying it could do with an update is a considerable understatement lol
The confederate cavalry saber that you don’t recognize, I believe it’s supposed to be a remake of a Nashville plow works saber, which was modeled off of some sort of American dragoon saber. If I remember correctly, this sword was popular during the Mexican American war, and also popular with the Texas rangers for some reason I’m pulling all this from memory.
I have the Italian bastard sword in blunt and undamaged. Even blunt its a lovely sword in the hand to swing about, lovely balance. Appears to have some distal taper but my eyes could be being tricked by how its been ground. I even got it after seeing Matts video on how modern hema blades have longer grips than historical ones and hoped itd help me drill more correctly. I have small hands so the hilt works fine for me two handed. I also have the tinker pearce(pierce?) Blunt longsword and idk if its because its blunt but its a lump with awful balance.
It’s great innit! And it’s black which is flipping cool!
Great video
The only thing I will say if I might is that I have contacted the Knight shop
On numerous occasions via email-and they have never replied which is a shame
I have the Greek Hoplite. It is a sweet short sword. I have had it for years. Mine feels pretty swift in the hand.
Thank you for this interesting vid
Video I was waiting for!
Windlass do some surprising decent stuff for the price, I got their Windlass Roven Longsword/Classic longsword and it's beautifully made for £171
The saber at 38:19 is a Confederate Nashville Plow Works saber.
What do u think about the Duna Duna Sword - 10th Century Ulfberht Viking Sword - Deepeeka sold buy kult of Athena I’m looking to buy a decent Viking sword that basic no elaborate engraving or nothing
Hey, I would love to see a video on budget daggers. I would love to get Tods 14c quillion dagger, but cant afford it at this time.
Thnx for this Matt!!!
Can you please do a new one 🙏, specifically for uk buyers , no customs involved
A couple of years ago, I got one the poshland knives bowies that Matt designed, from blades uk for £25.
Went in thinking I didn't need a sword . Always thought they were awesome . But now I'm thinking it could be fun for the next camping trip . But now I know what's good or bad. Thx
Wonder if that Red Dragon sword is still available.
And is their extra shipping to get to US
I have wanted a weapon and I never knew exactly where to start, probably a Longsword or American Saber that is sharp, usable, and reasonably priced, this vid has been somewhat enlightening, thanks
I like "functional" because it's simply honest with no attempt to exaggerate or sugar-coat the level of quality.
Thank you for making this.
Thankyou, I’ve been wondering what mr Matt Easton would say about the “affordable” sword market.
Depending on what you want it for why not go with a big dagger or knife?
Mora Scorpion is decent but i had problems with the beltloop of the sheeth. The long one of cudeman is quite nice too.
todcutler is probably good too but i haven`t tested them (bauernwehr and others).
Tramontina Machetes are nice but you need to sharpen them yourself and the sheeths, well you`ll see.
My first thought was why not gladius, spatha, xiphos or shorter bladed swords like a hunting sword or langseax. Windlass has a Laconia spartan sword that is more historical and would fit the price better than a movie replica
I have an antique Btitish 1821 cavalry saber and a few of the Windlass cavalry sabers (the American Revolution and the 1906... they don't make it anymore, or at least offer it on US websites, but it's the same blade as the 1860 "Heavy". The distal taper stats you saw on that one on Southern Swords are NOT what mine have. Not saying they might not have changed, I just got mine years and years ago. Anyway, they handle quite similarly, actually. The distal taper is not quite the same as the antique obviously, but I don't personally find them drastically different. Hope that's helpful.
I appreciate the correct pluralization of gladius :)
Would there be any demand for unfinished blades? If people are interested in that they should make the demand known. The blade is hard to do without equipment but it tends to not be even half of the labor. If there was a demand I'm sure someone would produce kits. Hell if I made more knives I would. It's a way to get something a lot better for your money.
Agreed, these are basic swords and fittings. Time Team did an episode on a hoard of gold and jeweled fittings, stripped from their blades. Kings, nobles, bishops and such had posh custom made stuff. Even the professional knight wanted their weapons exactly right for them. They were showoffs!
Yes! More feature length Matt video's pleeeeease! ^_^
Any chance of a part 2 to this video with slightly higher budget options between 200 and 400 maybe?
I just tried to scroll-wheel the website you were looking at in the video... 🤦🏻♂
Very Nice video
! I hope for a 200-400 € version of the vidéo :)
Thank you Matt, another informative video looks like I will be saving up for the Oakeshott type XIV at first then looking at a cutlas windless seem to do a few options you recommended the Dutch East India Co Cutlass but I'm wondering if I spent a little more maybe I'd get a better option there to. Maybe we need a video on swords £200 to £300?
The Dutch East India Co Cutlass looks a right handed only weapon were all Cutlass right handed?
What are your thoughts on red dragon by the knight shop?
See the video :-)
If you were ordering from France would you order from the US or UK? I assume both would face import taxes.
Hi Matt,
Great video first of all.
May I ask what you think of the colichemarde sword from Deepeeka? I love to have a colichemarde/smallsword and this one is very reasonable priced. But i don’t know if the quality is good for the money. That’s why i’m asking the expert 🤣.
What about Landsknecht Emporium? There very basic models are the the $200ish range.
Could you do a similar video on polearms ?!
Thanks for making that video. Will be interesting video to watch for sure despite the fact the region which I am from ( continental Europe) is not specially mentioned.
Hey Matt
Our 1595 club has a rolling thread about equipment and as a newbie, I’m having a heck of a time finding decent steel military Sabres for HEMA
They tend to be too light, and usually sold out
Too light? Decent sabres currently available are Kvetun and VB Armory. Second tier choices for me would be Regenyei or Sigi.
@@scholagladiatoria
Thanks Matt
Bang, done.
(And yes, Smallsword needs more HEMA love. My significant other would like to join in but she requires a very lightweight sword, such as Smallsword)
--
Blade Type: Wedge shaped “gymnasium” style with radius, strong
Blade Length: 85 cm
Depth of the radius at widest point: 2-3 cm
Width of the blade at the crossbar: 25 mm
Tip: Back-rolled
Guard: 11.5 cm perforated pattern bell guard
Distance from grip to guard: 6 cm
Grip Type: Oval with sloped heel
Grip Length (including pommel): 14 cm
Grip Covering: Black cord wrap (other colors available by special order)
Pommel: Hexagonal screw pommel
Weight: Approximately 915 grams
Point of balance: Approximately 13 cm from the crossbar
Great Video!
best brands/ shops to buy from? I want something fantasy-style but battle capable hopefully just "costume" thou
Are there any decent replicas of the Model 1821 British Light Cavalry Trooper's (not the Officer's) saber that meet the original specifications?
What happened historically when someone messed up in the production of making a weapon or piece of armor? Did they just throw it out, or were there discount things being sold?
Yes yes ! Order one to review 🙏🗡
1:04:42 is where the North American stuff starts for those living in North America.
I loved this video and I know this may sound crazy but I live in a rain forest in the USA and do a lot of brush clearing in the mountains I live in. I use a machete most of the time cutting small 1 to 3 inch thick trees and vines to keep my bigger trees alive by giving them space. I can ruin a machete in 2 days if its cheap. Out of these swords you'r talking about do you think these could stand up to that type of abuse ? I've had both 1 and 2 handed machetes . The heavier 2 handed take a lot of energy out of you but can cut through much thicker brush . It's like being in battle all day but no-ones hacking at you. Although most of the vines have thorns so Im usually bleeding in many areas.It would be great to use a regular 1 or 2 handed sword to keep in shape with a sword.So what do you think would be my best option?
i reckon a petrol power brush cutter would do the job . a sword is not designed for what you want it for . perhaps try cold steel , they have plenty overbuilt sharp steel bars they call swords
I'm Filipino, so I think any bolo or better yet a Panabas would be work great.
I've been to the Philippines and may go again . Any idea where to buy a good one there ? @@k.3004
I have the Red Dragon Temple Church sword (actually it was my first medieval sword). Since I don't do cutting, I bought it as a wallhanger and as such I think it's alright for the price point. But I will say that the blade is rather floppy, and there is a distinct click in the guard when I turn it so that the flat of the blade is aligned horizontally. Also some of the corners are very sharp. Mine has little to no distal taper.
With regard to The Knight Shops reviews - I have never seen something rated poorly, and I have left a 3* review on an item which is still listed but without the review. I'm not saying shenanigans took place, but I would be wary of trusting the reviews there. Definitely seek outside advice on a line before purchasing if possible.
Yea Im always unsure about ppls reviews especially when it's only a handful of ppl all giving 5 star,
The black marauder "rapier" is 1065 & its built rather decent. Its definitely blunt but will take an edge. Id say the reason they didnt want to sharpen would be b/c the blade is blackened. However I used it & its held up ok for the $ considering what i bought it for.
Rattling guard is a warranty case. Have the store repair or replace it
A monumental work of sword review which will be useful for generations of sword guide seekers.
I'll look out among your videos if there are any that explain stainless steel. It's a magical material albeit maybe stiff for a sword?
As a friend of several American blade smiths and an occasional student of weapons, most weapon grade blades in the U.S. cost more $200. Admittedly there are sword shaped steel items that are essentially stamped and sharpened low grade spring steel available and big box stores. Personally, I have paid over two hundred dollars for my manufactured chiefs Knife .
One thing I've been wondering is whether there is any 1796 LCS or 1811 Blücher replica or inspired chopper that has a decent compromise of price & quality
Do you own a Baronyx kingfisher? Its like a revamped modern day falchion. A truly scary weapon.
Windlass Oak short Type XIIa is NOT from Kingdom of Heaven. It is nearly the same as the sword used by the main character Balian but when the movie was out Museum Replicas had both this sword & the sword of Balian 8n the catalog at the same time!
I prefer this sword because the Balian sword had a translucent red cross in the pommel which by it's design meant the tang couldn't extend through the pommel so it was just a tang nub at the base the pommel screwed on to.
If you're in the US you can order a British 1742 and 1751 infantry hanger replica from Dixie gun works for 95$ . The sword was made by windlass.
are there any american brands or styles you do recommend more consistently than the longswords or the athena ones that you mentioned? it didn't seem like there was much of anything in the north american market that you felt very confident in recommending here.
im looking for an arming sword that i can abuse. any suggestions?
Have you tried the cold steel swords?
I've been looking for a replica 1788 since your video. I can't find one. Any recommendations or close substitutions?
I actually have the 1850 union staff and field saber from windlass. It was the first real sword I bought. It's decent but as far as distal taper its pretty much just a flat piece of steel. This definitely makes it feel worse in the hand than it could. Later I removed some material from the lenticular section towards the tip and it started moving much much better. It's held up very well over the years, my only other complaint would be the wire wrap on the hilt was done poorly.