I have had that same issue with my interceptor when I bought it from new but it doesn’t do it all of the time, so still under warranty I took it back to the dealers who said they couldn’t feel anything and that it didn’t do it when they test drove the bike? So I bought a cable oiler and pumped a mix of three in one oil and plus gas fluid through it but that didn’t work, to me it has the feel of a cable that is breaking down and fraying somewhere inside the sheathing causing it to click. So I am going to try your remedy and hope I have the same success.
Worth a try. I can feel the difference and click. I did wonder if it’s the top end of the cable where it goes into the clutch lever housing…..too much slack there and perhaps the metal end of the outer cable clicks? I fitted the new cable and ensured the cable end had no slack (but the cable want tight_….
@@internetpolification in your last comment you said that after installing the upgrade clutch cable to a venhill it went tight, did it cure the problem of clicking and does the new cable need to be slightly longer to maybe half an inch or more.
@@tonycunningham9369 yes, it cured the clicking. I removed all slack at the handlebar end too, as I thought maybe the metal end of the outer cable was causing the clicking when the cable was pulled. No…the cable is the perfect length
Most likely there is a quality lubricant in the new cable - this makes a world of difference in allowing a smooth travel through the outer sheathing hence the improved clutch feel. Question James - there seems to be an on going issue even with new RE 650's that produces intermittent stalls , poor running , difficult starting that can all be traced back to excess lithium grease on the relay pins. This has been an issue for years now . Has Royal Enfield addressed this problem by using a light coating of dielectric grease instead ? If not - what's going on at Royal Enfield ?
Here’s what they say……. Venhill featherlight clutch cable, part number R01-3-102, to suit Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 Years 2018 to 2021 Genuine high quality replacement Venhill 'Featherlight' clutch cable including marine grade stainless steel inner wire and PFTE (Teflon) liner for super low friction smooth operation.
@@nrich5127 oh, sorry…I did comment, I thought. Personally I would not put any grease whatsoever on electrical contacts. The Enfield is the first bike I’ve ever seen with any form of grease or lubricant on electrical pins and, from what people have said, it’s caused problems. I cleaned all my goose-greased contacts with a small, stiff artist’s brush and white spirit, putting a towel under them to catch the liquid. I found white spirit to be the best solvent for it. And then I put them back together. I’ve even found the stuff in the block connectors in the headlamp which connect the instrument clusters. Like I say, I’ve never ever seen it on any other bike and I certainly wouldn’t replace it with any other form of grease. Ps. I’d have thought that dielectric grease would be even worse, actually as it would transmit current whereas the goose grease appears to block current. So cross-contamination of the pins in a block connector would be a nightmare! Honestly, I’d just remove it and put the block connectors back together. The stalls and poor running are, I bet the relays being poor quality to start with and also that grease. Also, though, is the EVAP canister being full of petrol. On my own bike, I had poor starting both hot and cold, engine cutting off completely and rough running. All of that disappeared when I got rid of the EVAP system. Completely. At that point, I’d done nothing about the OEM relays and the grease but thought I’d do it anyway to avoid further trouble. Quite honestly, I would recommend anyone to remove that Evap system entirely…..it’s junk
@@nrich5127 They put the grease on the connectors because they are an Indian company from India. Dielectric grease blocks electrical continuity and also prevents water from entering. In India they have a monsoon season where it rains for 4 Months straight, and it is very humid there otherwise. People there ride everywhere in the rain and the dielectric grease prevents the electrical systems from shorting out during the monsoons. Problem is, the grease they use is an Indian formula and it dries out in the lower humidity West causing connectivity problems. We don't normally use that stuff here so simply get rid of it. If you're worried about shorts because you ride in the rain simply rubber-band little plastic baggies or balloons on the relays. That grease is otherwise no good here.
Great modification and much better sound quality .....
looks tempting .
The only way to eliminate temptation from one’s life is to entirely give in to it. Then one is no longer tempted…….😀
@@internetpolification and one would be no longer married !
@@mred7030 even better….lol 😀
I have had that same issue with my interceptor when I bought it from new but it doesn’t do it all of the time, so still under warranty I took it back to the dealers who said they couldn’t feel anything and that it didn’t do it when they test drove the bike?
So I bought a cable oiler and pumped a mix of three in one oil and plus gas fluid through it but that didn’t work, to me it has the feel of a cable that is breaking down and fraying somewhere inside the sheathing causing it to click. So I am going to try your remedy and hope I have the same success.
Worth a try. I can feel the difference and click. I did wonder if it’s the top end of the cable where it goes into the clutch lever housing…..too much slack there and perhaps the metal end of the outer cable clicks? I fitted the new cable and ensured the cable end had no slack (but the cable want tight_….
@@internetpolification in your last comment you said that after installing the upgrade clutch cable to a venhill it went tight, did it cure the problem of clicking and does the new cable need to be slightly longer to maybe half an inch or more.
@@tonycunningham9369 yes, it cured the clicking. I removed all slack at the handlebar end too, as I thought maybe the metal end of the outer cable was causing the clicking when the cable was pulled. No…the cable is the perfect length
Most likely there is a quality lubricant in the new cable - this makes a world of difference in allowing a smooth travel through the outer sheathing hence the improved clutch feel. Question James - there seems to be an on going issue even with new RE 650's that produces intermittent stalls , poor running , difficult starting that can all be traced back to excess lithium grease on the relay pins. This has been an issue for years now . Has Royal Enfield addressed this problem by using a light coating of dielectric grease instead ? If not - what's going on at Royal Enfield ?
Here’s what they say…….
Venhill featherlight clutch cable, part number R01-3-102, to suit Royal Enfield Interceptor 650
Years 2018 to 2021
Genuine high quality replacement Venhill 'Featherlight' clutch cable including marine grade stainless steel inner wire and PFTE (Teflon) liner for super low friction smooth operation.
@@internetpolification excellent info on the cable. What do you think about the lithium grease on the relay pins as per my comment ?
@@nrich5127 oh, sorry…I did comment, I thought. Personally I would not put any grease whatsoever on electrical contacts. The Enfield is the first bike I’ve ever seen with any form of grease or lubricant on electrical pins and, from what people have said, it’s caused problems. I cleaned all my goose-greased contacts with a small, stiff artist’s brush and white spirit, putting a towel under them to catch the liquid. I found white spirit to be the best solvent for it. And then I put them back together. I’ve even found the stuff in the block connectors in the headlamp which connect the instrument clusters. Like I say, I’ve never ever seen it on any other bike and I certainly wouldn’t replace it with any other form of grease.
Ps. I’d have thought that dielectric grease would be even worse, actually as it would transmit current whereas the goose grease appears to block current. So cross-contamination of the pins in a block connector would be a nightmare! Honestly, I’d just remove it and put the block connectors back together.
The stalls and poor running are, I bet the relays being poor quality to start with and also that grease. Also, though, is the EVAP canister being full of petrol. On my own bike, I had poor starting both hot and cold, engine cutting off completely and rough running. All of that disappeared when I got rid of the EVAP system. Completely. At that point, I’d done nothing about the OEM relays and the grease but thought I’d do it anyway to avoid further trouble. Quite honestly, I would recommend anyone to remove that Evap system entirely…..it’s junk
@@nrich5127 They put the grease on the connectors because they are an Indian company from India. Dielectric grease blocks electrical continuity and also prevents water from entering. In India they have a monsoon season where it rains for 4 Months straight, and it is very humid there otherwise. People there ride everywhere in the rain and the dielectric grease prevents the electrical systems from shorting out during the monsoons. Problem is, the grease they use is an Indian formula and it dries out in the lower humidity West causing connectivity problems. We don't normally use that stuff here so simply get rid of it. If you're worried about shorts because you ride in the rain simply rubber-band little plastic baggies or balloons on the relays. That grease is otherwise no good here.