I have no idea what this man is doing most of the time, but I'm addicted to this channel. What attention to detail. What a work-ethic. I love it even though he makes me feel like a lazy slob.
That second voice asking about disengagement scared the crap out of me. Sitting home alone with my headphones on recovering from surgery and I thought someone was asking ME. As always, nice work Adam.
This job shows the respect that the company that Adam works for shows him when they trust him not to make a mistake that could cost them thousands of dollars in material and lost time. He is a true professional.
I'm an apprentice, and just learned this same thing after another apprentice was misguided and wiped the threads off an expensive roll. Cheers to you, would love to apprentice under you.
The metric threading on imperial lead screw info is fantastic, especially with the camera shot right afterward showing the thread dial doing the motions. Thanks.
My father was a watchmaker for 50 years, he had amazing skills. I learned a lot from him, I took apart a watch, cleaned and oiled it and put it back together and it worked fine. I was 11 years old at the time. I still have the watch. I love watching any craftsman, such as Adam, do their work.
Adam , Your heavy machine work does not apply to the most of your veiwers BUT the priciples are the same. Thank you for sharing your work and expertise with us Once again thank your employers for making it possible. May you and your family have a great 2018 A F Pienaar Johannesburg
Thanks for taking the time to show the detail of the threading process. I wasn't quite following what you were doing until you showed us the threading dial and when you engaged it (toward the end of the video). Best wishes for an outstanding 2018
Really enjoy the Swedish Meatball series, thank you very much. The threading was cool, knowing that one misstake would ruin the whole build makes this a thrill to watch.
Every time you center that 4 jaw I am amazed of your skill. I cut metric on my pre-WWII 10" Atlas, lock the half nut and not opening it till finished. I would not trust myself like you do. I'd go over a turn... Love to watch you working.
Hey Adam, Long time watcher and love your channel. I'm not a safety nut, but I wanted to offer you some sincere advice. The way that you are bumping your T-handle on your chuck will cause....or should I say IS causing nerve damage to your hand. the Medial nerve and recurrent branch of the median nerve exit right at the base of the thumb and palm of the hand. Repeated daily impacts like this, which is also common to car mechanics, results in nerve injury. This type of injury, not only will cause sever pain and numbness, but also loss of function and coordination over time. This is often a career-ender. Once this happens it's too late. This is no less serious than safety glasses, ear or lung protection. Again not a worry wort here but someone who has experienced this, not only as a medical professional, but first hand(s) experience....All the best!
I am a 62 year old auto mechanic and I can attest to the truth of this statement. My hands are starting to give me trouble (pain) and I am trying to treat them better. As a friend always tells me, "Your hand is NOT a hammer!!!".
I would be terrified doing these last few but for me high risk machining operations on a shaft with so much time invested in it. I have to take my hat of to you sir and great skills. I try to do a little machining myself from time to time and I learned so much from you. Thanks for sharing.
New to your channel came over from AvE, my grandpa was machinist, my uncle's machinist, my cousin machinist, my dad built a one city block long building for a machine shop. I'm digging your channel.
Great work Adam, I am truly hooked on your channel, that shaft was a work of art! I haven't done any machining since my apprenticeship back in the early 70's at British Airways and this certainly brings back a lot of fond memories of those days back then. Thanks for all the videos, please keep them coming.
Hey Adam, Even from Holland (Europe) we like your vids verry much. Excellent way you machined, excellent way you explane the steps. Thanks. Greetzzz from Holland Gertjan
Great video Adam!! I think you did an excellent explanation of cutting metric threads with an imperial machine and what you have to do too keep the machine cutting the threads correctly. Awesome work as usual!! God Bless and i pray you have a prosperous 2018!!!
Its a pleasure watching someone else take so much pride in their work. I immensely enjoy watching your videos. I joined you at Patreon. It's the least I could do.
Hi I like that you demonstrated the exact method I have been using on my mini lathe. Having a reverse makes leaving the half nuts engaged. I have seen guys do the same with old South Bends by reversing under hand power. Thanks
At the phrase "why aren't you disengaging the half nuts when you do that?" I genuinely thought it was Adam making fun doing a whiny voice of that smart-ass kid that would have eventually commented on this video. You caught me off guard.. fantastic work btw!
Nice to see some Swedish parts! I've been working in the big lathes, in Swedish we call then merry go round-lathe, the vertical ones, up to about 3 meter diameter! :-) And i see that you could take care of turning very good! :-)
One thing that I don't understand about cutting threads; When you are getting ready for the 2nd pass why isn't it necessary to index the tool to the exact same position radially (clock position) that it started on in the 1st pass? It seem like it would cut new threads every pass. I guess you started answering what I am wondering at 13:30...thanks for all your great vids.
Refreshing to see that everything does not always go as planned. But you came through as always! Nice work :) I have had luck using rubber bungee cords wrapped around the work to help with chatter, probably would need a boatload on something that big. Might be worth a try some time......
I know I'm late, and I'm definetely a beginner to machining. But, and please correct me if I'm wrong, whenever I have worked on a lathe (in Sweden, so metric), there is no way to use the half nut other than to engate it in the exact same place. The reason is that we don't use threads per mm, but x mm thread pitch. In imperial, the TPI means that the lead screw will match up every so often, but because of how the metric threads are defines, there is no guarantee. Only if that particular lead screw happens to match the thread you are cutting. That is the reason I've also never seen a thread dial on a metric lathe As I said, please correct me if I'm wrong, I love to learn when I'm incorrect, then I learn something!
Actually, metric lathes have thread dial indicators, too, but, unlike imperial ones, for metric you need at least 3 interchangeable TDIs with different Z on the gears, depending on the leadscrew pitch, and the thread pitch you want to do. The lathe at my workplace has a 4mm pitch leadscrew and a TDI with 6 marks on the face and 3 change gears, with 27, 28 and 30 teeth.
hi mate , have you ever tried the hand held thread chasers that you hold like a wood lathe chisel , good for cleaning up chatter & forming root & crest radius .
Question, you set the depth of thread on the cross slide but I noticed you in one shot giving the compound slide a slight movement into the work, I assume to keep cutting on the leading edge of the tool. Now moving the compound also progresses the tool towards the work at Sine of what ever angle it was set at. Do you calculate the total depth of cut as (cross slide + Sine of angle of compound)? Thanks in advance, Ian Mac.
I was wondering a bit about that rumbling you can hear in the video when you started cutting. I don't know if you would be able to hear it just standing by the machine. Made me wonder about the bearings in the live center or the headstock.
Hi Abom, great videos, I enjoy and learn a lot with your videos, so thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of your viewers. Normally, I don't comment, I hit the like bottom, because you make it so simple for me to understand. But, I've one doubt, that I've been searching on the internet, and don't find an answer. So if you could help me, it would be much appreciated. At the top of the toolholder there is a metal plate numbered from zero to forty, those numbers aren't degrees, I think they aren't radians, what do they represent, and what do you use them for. Keep on the great work. Thanks
I tend to be in the part when you machine and did my wife and I just have a good laugh now because she caught me trying to blow away the smoke when you started the heavy cuts on the thread. Please tell me that someone else also did it. If not then I have a problem. LOL
I appreciate you admitting to an imperfect thread. It would have been interesting to watch you react when you were saving the shaft. I bet there was a little pucker factor.
Would making a steady be pissable its thanks to ur channel im a machinist and at my works one if the lathe i use is a Colchester 1600 mascot we have a standard and home made stady for big work i mean big we do hydraulic rods and cylinders like i said its ur fault and mrpetes im here and i love it
Note how he marked his threading dial with a yellow marker if he were to disengage his lead screw and engage it on that yellow line every time you won't have to put the machine in reverse every time you make a pass to keep it engaged
My little 1950s swedish machine is metric, but has a 20mm leadscrew... in 8TPI, it cuts both metric and imperial threads with a norton box and changewheels, it has a dial indicator but I have no idea if it's meant for the imperial threading or metric or both? It has an odd number of lines (5) instead of 4 or 8. I guess the only way to find out is to test if it works with either.
I think it's a bit risky disengaging like that because you can end up with the insert taking a really big cut if you're a little late and break it off. I think you're better off marking the angular position on the chuck and stopping the machine well before that and then pull it the last bit by hand.
Can you get double sided carbide so you could cut the thread in reverse then forward like normal? Or would save time you would be doing two passes instead of one.
In reverse, the rotation of the shaft is away from the cutting edge, so the tool would just rub, not cut. If he just reversed the carriage, he'd lose the relation of the carriage to the rotation of the shaft and the start of the thread. That would result in a split thread the same as if the half-nut was disengaged and the position on the thread dial was lost. The cutting edge has to be on-center. The bottom side of the carbide would be below center and not touching the work-piece even if its edge were square.
well me aint one to. but the cutting edge will be to small to do so. and melt away. you need cutting edge en enough support. the cutting edge would be to far appart.
Nearly every machine in the world has some kind of back lash in the gears, nuts, screws. If you watch when he reverses, the tool is not in the thread cut, it’s a little off. But when he switches back into forward, the machine takes up the back lash and the thread tool is lined back up. If he was cutting in reverse, not only would it break the carbide (because carbide doesn’t like to stop) and it would cut between the threads due to the back lash.
Hey adam, happy new year. Just a question, how do you determine the major diameter on the thread for those nuts, is there a spec sheet, or does that 38 refer to a specific size? Well done!
The number is just a sizing standard and not indicates the thread size. But the thread is always a nominal diameter and pitch. Just turn it .005” undersize like you would any other thread.
Adam, I can highly recommend AirCat die grinders for their quietness and power compared to the noisy standard type that do your head in. If you know of any better ones, do let me know also, cheers!
As usual. Quality Content. I hear you say things like "I'm gonna take it easy on this" or "I'm in no rush" BUT is there a time when taking it too slow is not good or have you ever had to "rush" a job through quicker than you liked.
Love watching you work on the larger parts.Maybe a little less footage of you dialing in chucks?We know you do it right,and your customers obviously trust you!Quick question.....When cutting metric threads on an inch lathe,can't the feednut and dial makes several revs disengaged,as long as you were re-engaging on the yellow dot?Say,you unlocked it,let the lathe/dial run while the slide set idle,as long as the yellow dot was hit when you cut again,or does the half-nut HAVE to stay on the particular rev,like you showed?Thanks!BTW,one thing we used to try when encountering chatter like that was to wrap the shaft with rubber sheets,or even lots of bungie cords to try to reduce vibrations,seemed to help.....
Actually, you could disengage the half-nut, but, in case your lathe's leadscrew is 4TPI, you would need a TDI with a 60T gear (every 60 turns of the leadscrew they resynchronize.)
I also use that threading technique but I believe I'm working with a metric lathe (cutting mostly metric threads). Does any one of you know how the indexing of the threading dial works in metric? I'm planning to reverse-engineer the ratios and figure it out that way, but it'd be nice to get some pointers to get me started.
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 12:00 you only can use the threading dial if the lead screw and the cutting thread are of a different dimension. Imperial pitch versus metric pitch of vice versa.
Search around for it. I Know there is a good thread at that machinist forum that tends to devolve into flame wars (caughPracticalcoughMachinistcough). Metric threading dials are complicated and have several drive pinions. You have to move the dial up or down, and adjust the engagement when you change to a different thread set. Single point threading is one of those places where metric just sucks. My old lathe was metric, and I always told everyone "its OK once you get used to it." My current lathe is imperial, and I will never own a metric lathe again.
The difference is in the leadscrew thread. Choose the thread that you use most or buy two lathes. The reversing method demonstrated by Adam works well , as you've seen . Don't sweat with small stuff
I agree. But for those who have learned inches, and used inches a lifetime, metric doesent come easy. By the way - that thread pitch of 3 mm are very closed to 8 1/2 tpi
In Spain we use the metric system, I am a refrigeration mechanic and in this profession everything is in inches. It is a real problem, not only for the measurements, but also in tools, tubes and spare parts.
I grew up using both SAE and metric. It is just a language. Are you trying to say one is "better" than the other? Whitworth is clearly superior then....
My metric lathe (6mm pitch lead screw) can't cut a metric thread...it will split the thread once every 10times any ideas? The thread dial has 3divisions and no change pinions....Tuda - tudor max 3000
Beautiful explained. Great job. Well kinda request I want. Can u do learn cnc machining too, so we can learn along. U probably knew that already and hate it. But I made my request. U know
I have no idea what this man is doing most of the time, but I'm addicted to this channel. What attention to detail. What a work-ethic. I love it even though he makes me feel like a lazy slob.
That second voice asking about disengagement scared the crap out of me. Sitting home alone with my headphones on recovering from surgery and I thought someone was asking ME. As always, nice work Adam.
I have no idea what you are talking about, there was no second voice. You may want to ask about having your meds adjusted.
@ 11:55
was a joke dude, but thanks.
+Kennnny77 There's no second voice at 11:55...
Haha I must admit it gave me a bit of a surprise too!
This job shows the respect that the company that Adam works for shows him when they trust him not to make a mistake that could cost them thousands of dollars in material and lost time. He is a true professional.
I'm an apprentice, and just learned this same thing after another apprentice was misguided and wiped the threads off an expensive roll. Cheers to you, would love to apprentice under you.
Hanging that retainer nut on the tailstock for quick checking is an awesome idea, never would have thought of that!
i thought of it and a few seconds later he pulls it into frame
chris0tube Yep, I probably would have figured it out the first time I had to set the tailstock up again!
Enormous relief. I was in a desperate panic that I was going to have go wait another day for this video. I dont think I could bear it.
I Think This Is The Most Beautiful Machined Piece That You Have Made, Chatter Or Not..Your Best Vid To Date !! I Stand And Applaud . No Kidding Man!
The metric threading on imperial lead screw info is fantastic, especially with the camera shot right afterward showing the thread dial doing the motions. Thanks.
From a watchmaker's point of view, I can appreciate your level of precision. Great job!
My father was a watchmaker for 50 years, he had amazing skills. I learned a lot from him, I took apart a watch, cleaned and oiled it and put it back together and it worked fine. I was 11 years old at the time. I still have the watch. I love watching any craftsman, such as Adam, do their work.
Adam , Your heavy machine work does not apply to the most of your veiwers BUT the priciples are the same.
Thank you for sharing your work and expertise with us Once again thank your employers for making it possible.
May you and your family have a great 2018
A F Pienaar
Johannesburg
That was nice AF #niceaf
Thanks for taking the time to show the detail of the threading process. I wasn't quite following what you were doing until you showed us the threading dial and when you engaged it (toward the end of the video). Best wishes for an outstanding 2018
Feels nice to watch someone else do the work while I take the day off
Really enjoy the Swedish Meatball series, thank you very much. The threading was cool, knowing that one misstake would ruin the whole build makes this a thrill to watch.
It's a thing of beauty watching you zero out your run-out.
Thanks again enjoyed watching the final steps it was a wonderful project looking forward to the next
Every time you center that 4 jaw I am amazed of your skill. I cut metric on my pre-WWII 10" Atlas, lock the half nut and not opening it till finished. I would not trust myself like you do. I'd go over a turn...
Love to watch you working.
It’s easy. Make you a mark to line up on. Disengage and stop the machine. Reverse and engage on the same line.
Hey Adam, Long time watcher and love your channel. I'm not a safety nut, but I wanted to offer you some sincere advice. The way that you are bumping your T-handle on your chuck will cause....or should I say IS causing nerve damage to your hand. the Medial nerve and recurrent branch of the median nerve exit right at the base of the thumb and palm of the hand. Repeated daily impacts like this, which is also common to car mechanics, results in nerve injury. This type of injury, not only will cause sever pain and numbness, but also loss of function and coordination over time. This is often a career-ender. Once this happens it's too late. This is no less serious than safety glasses, ear or lung protection. Again not a worry wort here but someone who has experienced this, not only as a medical professional, but first hand(s) experience....All the best!
I am a 62 year old auto mechanic and I can attest to the truth of this statement. My hands are starting to give me trouble (pain) and I am trying to treat them better. As a friend always tells me, "Your hand is NOT a hammer!!!".
yes true
I have use my hand as a hammer on my life. My hands are huge and tough. But the thumb is useless now.
The Best Part of any of your videos is you truing up the 4 jaws to less than a half a thousand! ;)
A machinist AND a teacher? Damn Adam!!
I love single point threading, nothing more satisfying than cutting a nice custom thread that is spot on~ Richard
I would be terrified doing these last few but for me high risk machining operations on a shaft with so much time invested in it. I have to take my hat of to you sir and great skills. I try to do a little machining myself from time to time and I learned so much from you. Thanks for sharing.
Man, you're so frickin' smart. It's a pleasure to watch you work.
Perfect timing!, I come upstairs from my little basement shop and two new Abom videos! Thanks Adam!
It always amazes me how *delicately* everything must be handled.
Thread cutting continues to amaze me
New to your channel came over from AvE, my grandpa was machinist, my uncle's machinist, my cousin machinist, my dad built a one city block long building for a machine shop. I'm digging your channel.
This is the first time I’m seeing that you are reversing the machine while threading.
Any way many thanks for all videos.
Great work Adam, I am truly hooked on your channel, that shaft was a work of art! I haven't done any machining since my apprenticeship back in the early 70's at British Airways and this certainly brings back a lot of fond memories of those days back then. Thanks for all the videos, please keep them coming.
Hey Adam,
Even from Holland (Europe) we like your vids verry much.
Excellent way you machined, excellent way you explane the steps.
Thanks.
Greetzzz from Holland
Gertjan
Thanks! Fernando is from Holland.
Hi Adam I am glad you are back. I hope you and Abbey had a great vacation.
Bill from Seattle
Thank you Adam for another Metric video! Happy New Year! Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱:-)
Great video Adam!! I think you did an excellent explanation of cutting metric threads with an imperial machine and what you have to do too keep the machine cutting the threads correctly. Awesome work as usual!! God Bless and i pray you have a prosperous 2018!!!
Im from Sweden so this was nice to see. Nice to see a work made in mm.
Its a pleasure watching someone else take so much pride in their work. I immensely enjoy watching your videos. I joined you at Patreon. It's the least I could do.
Thanks Patrick!
Thanks for the great video. This made me understand metric threading on a standard lathe and why I've been struggling with the half nut.
Hi
I like that you demonstrated the exact method I have been using on my mini lathe. Having a reverse makes leaving the half nuts engaged.
I have seen guys do the same with old South Bends by reversing under hand power.
Thanks
great, thanks for showing detail, and thanks for not playing background music in the videos
Thank you Adam. I appreciate you considering the requests and comments of your viewers.
At the phrase "why aren't you disengaging the half nuts when you do that?" I genuinely thought it was Adam making fun doing a whiny voice of that smart-ass kid that would have eventually commented on this video. You caught me off guard.. fantastic work btw!
Yeah, but now you just kinda called the new guy a whiny smart ass kid. It must be someone unfamiliar with lathes though.
it was just the sudden change of voice with a higher pitch one, I obviously have nothing against the new guy or his voice.. it just felt strange..
I thought it was Tom Lipton @oxtoolco at first.
Nice to see some Swedish parts! I've been working in the big lathes, in Swedish we call then merry go round-lathe, the vertical ones, up to about 3 meter diameter! :-) And i see that you could take care of turning very good! :-)
One thing that I don't understand about cutting threads; When you are getting ready for the 2nd pass why isn't it necessary to index the tool to the exact same position radially (clock position) that it started on in the 1st pass? It seem like it would cut new threads every pass. I guess you started answering what I am wondering at 13:30...thanks for all your great vids.
Adam, you have a true talent my friend. Great work sir. Happy New Year!
Bull Miller like a bit of ASMR after watching a shaft eh? 😉
Uhhhhh sure? I'm not sure what you just said.
Great work, and thanks for sharing with us. Greetings from Brazil.
love your work and explanations Adam. . .
Refreshing to see that everything does not always go as planned. But you came through as always! Nice work :) I have had luck using rubber bungee cords wrapped around the work to help with chatter, probably would need a boatload on something that big. Might be worth a try some time......
I know I'm late, and I'm definetely a beginner to machining. But, and please correct me if I'm wrong, whenever I have worked on a lathe (in Sweden, so metric), there is no way to use the half nut other than to engate it in the exact same place. The reason is that we don't use threads per mm, but x mm thread pitch. In imperial, the TPI means that the lead screw will match up every so often, but because of how the metric threads are defines, there is no guarantee. Only if that particular lead screw happens to match the thread you are cutting. That is the reason I've also never seen a thread dial on a metric lathe
As I said, please correct me if I'm wrong, I love to learn when I'm incorrect, then I learn something!
Actually, metric lathes have thread dial indicators, too, but, unlike imperial ones, for metric you need at least 3 interchangeable TDIs with different Z on the gears, depending on the leadscrew pitch, and the thread pitch you want to do. The lathe at my workplace has a 4mm pitch leadscrew and a TDI with 6 marks on the face and 3 change gears, with 27, 28 and 30 teeth.
Who is the "world's luckiest apprentice?" I'm jealous.
nice to see that you working on real things ;-) /from Sweden
Excellent! I feel like I did my apprenticeship in several minutes:)
Great video. Spreading the knowledge
hi mate , have you ever tried the hand held thread chasers that you hold like a wood lathe chisel , good for cleaning up chatter & forming root & crest radius .
A work of art Adam. I noticed AvE has your sticker on his laptop!
Can you do a video all about cutting threads. Start from how to setup the lathe to tooling needed. Thanks
Question, you set the depth of thread on the cross slide but I noticed you in one shot giving the compound slide a slight movement into the work, I assume to keep cutting on the leading edge of the tool. Now moving the compound also progresses the tool towards the work at Sine of what ever angle it was set at. Do you calculate the total depth of cut as (cross slide + Sine of angle of compound)? Thanks in advance, Ian Mac.
I feed in with the compound each pass. I bring the cross slide back to zero each time.
Good choice using SKF.
They're my go to choice, for wheel bearings.
A job well done, thanks for sharing it.
Very fine work sir. Happy New Year!!
Nice, been looking forward to this :)
T O P Work BRAVO Very Good Precision work
I was wondering a bit about that rumbling you can hear in the video when you started cutting. I don't know if you would be able to hear it just standing by the machine. Made me wonder about the bearings in the live center or the headstock.
Hi Abom, great videos, I enjoy and learn a lot with your videos, so thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of your viewers.
Normally, I don't comment, I hit the like bottom, because you make it so simple for me to understand.
But, I've one doubt, that I've been searching on the internet, and don't find an answer.
So if you could help me, it would be much appreciated.
At the top of the toolholder there is a metal plate numbered from zero to forty, those numbers aren't degrees, I think they aren't radians, what do they represent, and what do you use them for.
Keep on the great work.
Thanks
I tend to be in the part when you machine and did my wife and I just have a good laugh now because she caught me trying to blow away the smoke when you started the heavy cuts on the thread. Please tell me that someone else also did it. If not then I have a problem. LOL
I never tried to blow away smoke, but I have told Adam many times to watch out... LOL
Adam if you feel a slight breeze behind your neck, it might just be one of your viewers.
A great tutorial, I will remember your lesson on cutting threads, "never loose track when cutting threads". Thank you.
I almost did - does that help any? :-)
Beautiful fit, beautiful work.
Great work Adam 👍
I appreciate you admitting to an imperfect thread. It would have been interesting to watch you react when you were saving the shaft. I bet there was a little pucker factor.
Nice job Adam.
Would making a steady be pissable its thanks to ur channel im a machinist and at my works one if the lathe i use is a Colchester 1600 mascot we have a standard and home made stady for big work i mean big we do hydraulic rods and cylinders like i said its ur fault and mrpetes im here and i love it
Note how he marked his threading dial with a yellow marker if he were to disengage his lead screw and engage it on that yellow line every time you won't have to put the machine in reverse every time you make a pass to keep it engaged
Awesome Work
Hey man love the videos. Is so satisfying to watch someone use a lathe properly. One quick. Why no gloves? Just curious.
Was that the same thread at end of video that you didn't like? If it was it looked a lot cleaner. Were you able to use something to clean it up with?
no the first side he did. the big OD side did that. you can C on the pic the chuck side is bigger :-)
great stuff Adam
I'll bet that was an EXPENSIVE part-!
My little 1950s swedish machine is metric, but has a 20mm leadscrew... in 8TPI, it cuts both metric and imperial threads with a norton box and changewheels, it has a dial indicator but I have no idea if it's meant for the imperial threading or metric or both? It has an odd number of lines (5) instead of 4 or 8. I guess the only way to find out is to test if it works with either.
I think it's a bit risky disengaging like that because you can end up with the insert taking a really big cut if you're a little late and break it off. I think you're better off marking the angular position on the chuck and stopping the machine well before that and then pull it the last bit by hand.
Nice one! Good movie!
Sounds like time for a shop built steady project. :-)
Doubt there will ever be time. I had Acra quote me one years ago for $850.
Can you show us the Copper pads after use some time around please? I'd love to see what they look like when they did their job:)
Great work as always adam! What was your depth of cut on each pass on the threading cycle?
Can you get double sided carbide so you could cut the thread in reverse then forward like normal? Or would save time you would be doing two passes instead of one.
i am not a machinist and not a proffessional but i think it is not possible because the backlash wil destroy the thread ?
In reverse, the rotation of the shaft is away from the cutting edge, so the tool would just rub, not cut. If he just reversed the carriage, he'd lose the relation of the carriage to the rotation of the shaft and the start of the thread. That would result in a split thread the same as if the half-nut was disengaged and the position on the thread dial was lost.
The cutting edge has to be on-center. The bottom side of the carbide would be below center and not touching the work-piece even if its edge were square.
well me aint one to. but the cutting edge will be to small to do so. and melt away. you need cutting edge en enough support. the cutting edge would be to far appart.
No.
Nearly every machine in the world has some kind of back lash in the gears, nuts, screws. If you watch when he reverses, the tool is not in the thread cut, it’s a little off. But when he switches back into forward, the machine takes up the back lash and the thread tool is lined back up. If he was cutting in reverse, not only would it break the carbide (because carbide doesn’t like to stop) and it would cut between the threads due to the back lash.
Great work man ! enjoyed ..
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Hey adam, happy new year. Just a question, how do you determine the major diameter on the thread for those nuts, is there a spec sheet, or does that 38 refer to a specific size?
Well done!
The number is just a sizing standard and not indicates the thread size. But the thread is always a nominal diameter and pitch. Just turn it .005” undersize like you would any other thread.
Adam, I can highly recommend AirCat die grinders for their quietness and power compared to the noisy standard type that do your head in. If you know of any better ones, do let me know also, cheers!
Wecuse Aircat impact wrenches. They are a good tool.
Real nice work there
As usual. Quality Content.
I hear you say things like "I'm gonna take it easy on this" or "I'm in no rush" BUT is there a time when taking it too slow is not good or have you ever had to "rush" a job through quicker than you liked.
Any concern at all with overheating the motor from all the start/stop/reversing?
Love watching you work on the larger parts.Maybe a little less footage of you dialing in chucks?We know you do it right,and your customers obviously trust you!Quick question.....When cutting metric threads on an inch lathe,can't the feednut and dial makes several revs disengaged,as long as you were re-engaging on the yellow dot?Say,you unlocked it,let the lathe/dial run while the slide set idle,as long as the yellow dot was hit when you cut again,or does the half-nut HAVE to stay on the particular rev,like you showed?Thanks!BTW,one thing we used to try when encountering chatter like that was to wrap the shaft with rubber sheets,or even lots of bungie cords to try to reduce vibrations,seemed to help.....
Actually, you could disengage the half-nut, but, in case your lathe's leadscrew is 4TPI, you would need a TDI with a 60T gear (every 60 turns of the leadscrew they resynchronize.)
You can't reduce chatter by less depth of a cut at a slower revolution?
Would one of those 8 in 1 thread repair files fix your chattered thread issue?
Just curious how deep those threads are....could you mention that in your next threading vid
Pitch P=3mm, thread deep h3=1.840mm; (h3=0.61343xP).
GREAT VIDEO !!
I also use that threading technique but I believe I'm working with a metric lathe (cutting mostly metric threads).
Does any one of you know how the indexing of the threading dial works in metric?
I'm planning to reverse-engineer the ratios and figure it out that way, but it'd be nice to get some pointers to get me started.
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 reverse engineer? You be careful buddy
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 so you don't mess up just engage all the time at the same number
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 12:00 you only can use the threading dial if the lead screw and the cutting thread are of a different dimension.
Imperial pitch versus metric pitch of vice versa.
Search around for it. I Know there is a good thread at that machinist forum that tends to devolve into flame wars (caughPracticalcoughMachinistcough).
Metric threading dials are complicated and have several drive pinions. You have to move the dial up or down, and adjust the engagement when you change to a different thread set.
Single point threading is one of those places where metric just sucks. My old lathe was metric, and I always told everyone "its OK once you get used to it." My current lathe is imperial, and I will never own a metric lathe again.
The difference is in the leadscrew thread. Choose the thread that you use most or buy two lathes.
The reversing method demonstrated by Adam works well , as you've seen . Don't sweat with small stuff
There is nothing like the metric system.
I agree. But for those who have learned inches, and used inches a lifetime, metric doesent come easy. By the way - that thread pitch of 3 mm are very closed to 8 1/2 tpi
Yes. Nothing sucks quite like it.
In Spain we use the metric system, I am a refrigeration mechanic and in this profession everything is in inches. It is a real problem, not only for the measurements, but also in tools, tubes and spare parts.
Mind explaining how?
I grew up using both SAE and metric. It is just a language. Are you trying to say one is "better" than the other? Whitworth is clearly superior then....
Another good job.
The opening photo made you look very small! Do you know what it's off?
My metric lathe (6mm pitch lead screw) can't cut a metric thread...it will split the thread once every 10times any ideas? The thread dial has 3divisions and no change pinions....Tuda - tudor max 3000
Beautiful explained. Great job. Well kinda request I want. Can u do learn cnc machining too, so we can learn along. U probably knew that already and hate it. But I made my request. U know
Sounded like Keith Fenner asked that question! I thought you were doing a fake voice at first. Made me laugh.
Индикатор метрический используешь?