Prusa MK4 Quick Nozzle Swap Method
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- Опубліковано 6 бер 2024
- In this video I will talk you through and show you how to swap Prusa Nozzles without completely removing Heat Block Assembly
Quick swap tool from Prusa for even quicker replacement:
www.printables.com/model/8016...
My Printables page:
www.printables.com/@SSD_16371...
Instagram:
@StudioSpaceDust
#Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters - Навчання та стиль
I love how simple this is! When I was the official method, I knew there had to be a faster way. Thank you for sharing this technique with us
Glad you found it useful :) theres special tool for this now at printables to download from official Prusas account, you wont even need a wrench.
Thank you. After 5 videos, you are the first to show how to simply remove the nozzle, not the whole assembly : D
You are welcome! By the way, now Prusa has released one too, they have also uploaded a apecial tool for that, it wasnt available when I made a video, so make aure to check this link. www.printables.com/model/801656-mk4-nozzle-replacement-tool
Your channel is so underrated 😊
Good things take time, thank you ☺️ 🙏
@Ro3Deee
at 1:43, it can be seen that the required torque of 1.5 Nm removed a line of the coating (the tool is of too hard material). Happened to me also :(
♥️👍🌼
Just ordered a Mk4 kit last night.
Does Pursa provide a torque rating for the nozzle? (Assuming it’s not already screwed into the heat block)
Like, 20 inch-pounds? 3 newton-meters? Or is it just kinda a guess?
Hey, congratulations on your new kit. It is 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb-in) you can check this article for more details help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-the-prusa-nozzle-mk4-mk3-9_421215
Wait was I supposed to have PTFE going to the nextruder?
Great video cheers
You can, its optional. MK4’s Nextruder fits Festo QSM M5-4 adaptor, if you want to have direct feed from dry box via PTFE tube for example then youll need to get few of these. I made adaptor for top of enclosure, you can find that for download at my printables page too. Thanks for watching.
Nice quick video - Can you point me to that screwdriver I'd like to get one - Thanks for sharing !
Hey, thanks for watching, I got this one: “Sealey Sts103 Screwdriver Torque Digital 0.05-5Nm 1/4 Hex Drive” at the moment its ~£53 on Amazon. It comes callibrated with certificate and is also useful for printer maintenance. Downside you will need precision Philips (+) screwdriver to get it going - to install provided batteries. But then it’s very easy to use. You will also need 7mm Allen Socket for nozzle (if you have drill bit set those are usually part of set).
@@StudioSpaceDustHey thanks for the quick reply ! Looks like these may be a UK-Specific item, but it's got me doing down the right track, so thanks again !
Yes, it’s a UK brand, in the US there should be more options to choose from :) I would only not recommend getting a mechanical one from a questionable brand, plenty of those on Amazon, I tried this “Aurloct” brand, had good reviews but ended up returning as it was impossible to rely on the torque range and metal was soft. Happy printing!
Great video. Is that a silicone sock on your hot end, and where do i get one?
Ah, found them on Prusa's shop.
Hello and thanks for your comment. I bought them from Prusa store too but you can also find them on third party websites :)
Now that they got rid of the probe how does the mk4 do the automatic skew compensation?
This is a good question. I was also watching videos about that but.. best is to test it by printing big size models like boxes and see if its noticeable, as if its skewed, boxes wont close. So far all my prototypes from multiple maxed out parts printed without any issues with PETG, I only had some unexplained layer shifting issues but that turned out to be issue of either prusa slicer or error while copying file to usb.
...the load cell? they market this pretty hard
i don't understand this question 🤔
which probe and which automatic skew compensation?
My hotend can turn left and right even when fully screwed in.
If your nozzle sits tight in heater block but whole assembly is moving it means two thumb screws arent tigtened. Open part cooling fan and try tigtening them with your fingers.
@@StudioSpaceDust They are fully tightened.
@@voldy3565 then it might be that those two bolts are too short (contact prusa support). Is this a new machine? Has it always been moving like this? May need to remove love board cover, disconnect thermisor and heater block cables, loosen those thumb screws and try to remove whole nozzle, maybe it is deformed where screws should be holding it in place.
my nozzle WILL NOT come out, such a horrible set up... the nozzle can turn and I have it out of the heat block.. but it wont drop out. yes.. the thumb screws are loose.. in fact out of the unit.
If you are changing the nozzle and this happens it may be that filament wasn’t unloaded or wasn’t unloaded successfully, try to unload filament again.
Or fix it back, load filament until you see it purging out normally, then unload filament, and then try again this process
such a downgrade, with revo six on the mk3s, you can change nozzle one handed while cold, theres no need for torque driver, and no worry about stripping the threads and causing leaks.
Good to know, thank you for sharing. There is always room for improvement :)