Measuring CCT & Tint of emitters
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- Let's take a look at two things: 1) some hardware tools we can use to measure CCT, Tint, and CRI, as well as 2) the values of common emitters we love.
Here is an important video to watch if you want to know more about Tint, DUV, and BBL: • Flashlights 101: Tint ...
Contents
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00:00 - Introduction
02:44 - Part 1 - Opple vs Sekonic
12:14 - Part 2 - Measuring various emitters - Наука та технологія
Fantastic video with lots of great information. It's good to know that these little Opple's are punching well above their weight!
Obviously I had not watched the whole video on my last comment lol!
Thank you so much for addressing the problems with photographing the xpl-hi! I think your conclusion makes a ton of sense, and you answered something that a lot of people on blf couldn't. And I really appreciate that bc I don't think that info would've been apparent without such good equipment being available! Thanks man.
Oh and for the record, just because you have this great equipment at your disposal, the biggest problem I have with photographing xpl-hi is especially compared to a sst20 4000k. If the sst20 looks green to my eye, and the xpl-hi looks rosy to my eye, in the photo they're opposite.
But I feel like your conclusion still applies. Thank you!
Great video. I have a few tips about light measurement that might be helpful. The R9 value (and CCT) is measured on the CIE 1960, a color space that is not ideal for this task. CIE1960 may work out well for CCT, since the isotherms are perpendicular to the BBL, but the red region of the color space is greatly compressed and doesn’t the scale the same as the rest of Ra. The takeaway is that any positive R9 is OK, an R9 over 25 is typically adequate and an R9 over 50 is typically very good.
The lighting community solved this whole thing by adopting a new testing metric, IES:TM30 that uses 100 real world color samples, in place of the weird 8 pastel colors used in CRI. TM30 has the advantage of also providing information about the change in saturation and hue of color samples between the test and reference lights.
In 1976 the lighting community also moved to a new color space that is perceptually uniform. That color space has its advantages in measuring things like color difference between lighting sources. FYI: each color space has its use: the 1931 space you used in your video showed that humans are ver sensitive to green and relatively less sensitive to blue and red.
Thanks again for the video. The integrity in which you provide information is impressive.
Thanks for adding your expertise!
Another nice deep dive Cheule! I always enjoy watching you get into the details, especially with those excellent tools, and your ability to help me get an understanding of what I'm seeing...
I have the exact same Hank light you have, same color and everything. I can't wait for my Opple to get here to compare the numbers to yours.
Спасибо! Отличный тест! Вы очень помогли!
What I took away from this video: The most perfect light you have ever seen is 3000k 😁❤️
JK, great video man! I'm still not buying an sst20, but great video ! Thanks for this in depth information!
Awesome video as always… but at the very start you got me wondering. What is your bench light?? Opple shows a perfect RA 100 so it seems a incandescent light but at 5100k ?????
I have high CRI video lights that are temperature adjusting. I set them to daylight CCT of 5200K for my video work.
Question, we see that mixing low and high K emitters bring the Duv down. Minus green filters also bring Duv down. Could you measure if minus green filters actually add R9 values from your Sekonic?
I can measure in a few days (I’m away from my workshop). I do want to add though, that minus green usually comes at a cost of lumens. About 20-30% depending on the strength.
@@cheule Sure, I understand it will reduce intensity. Just curious if adding something "minus" does actually plus a certain R value, specially R9
Awesome video and great explanation you gotta get some Nichia E21a 9080's in yur lineup they have the best CRI...IMO
I did show 3500K E21A in the video near the end, it performed very well.
My bad don't know how I missed it i stand corrected great video again
I bought an Opple a couple months ago and love this thing! Is there anything price-wise between the Opple and Sekonic that reports graphs and R9?
I don’t know if anything under $1000 that reports r9. Not to say it doesn’t exist; just that I’m unaware of one.
Good question. I've been on the lookout as well. Hopoocolor / Hopucolor has a few that are around 600-700 in their OHSP series.
Hey mate, could you explain the differences between the spectrum readings of the tungsten vs the LEDs. It seems like the red peaks are much higher than the blues on the tungsten light, but the D4 you had, the red and blue peaks looked similar. Is it missing the longer wavelength parts of the spectrum? Is it over representing the shorter wavelengths? Thanks!
What you noticed is how it actually is! LEDs emit most of their light in the visible spectrum, and tungsten lights emote most of their light in infrared!
@@cheule Very cool, thanks for the reply.
So... has anyone done a deep dive on those cheaper sensors and seen if they can actually report more than they do? Wouldn't be the first time someone finds a way to get more info out of things like these by sniffing the traffic or looking closer at the PCB.
so good
I’m crazy late to the party here (just got into flashlights thanks to your videos!) and I totally need to see a clip of that tungsten light if you still have access to it. That would be sweeeet haha
I think I show it in the baton 3 pro max warm white video: ua-cam.com/video/63HqxssFy2g/v-deo.htmlsi=7p_cYqgUr7ZSNj2e
Curious to know r9 value on that final KR4 tint mix please?
What a great question. So here's the very interesting answer: E21A 3500K only was 85 r9. E21A 2700/4500K was 91 r9! But then 2000/5000K mix was 75 r9, and 2000/6500K was 65 r9. As the emitter get cooler (5000K, 6000K) the r9 suffers a lot.
@@cheule makes sense i have a KR4 w2/219b 4500k mix eyes are not good enough to detect anything on Turbo other than it's not quite as 'white' as a std W2 would be.
Welp, I just spent $1,600 on a photospectrometer thanks to you. I can't let you have all the fun.
Haha! Sucker! And don’t make it sound better than it is, it’s literally a “color meter.” Lol!
@@cheule I really thought I was ridiculous when I built my lumen tube, but this is getting out of hand.
How good does opple measure flicker?
I would say “ok” better than anything else I’ve tried save an oscilloscope.
Yeah I want something that measures LED light bulb flicker because I want to transition the house over to mostly led save for a few lamps for pre bedtime. Philips has new 95 cri bulbs that are suppose to be flicker free. Another guy on UA-cam tested previous version bulbs with the really expensive meters and they had less flicker than incandescents. I had no idea.
Just ordered the Opple. Price is up to $35 now, but still a bargain for what it does
ok ok ok ok thanks for making this video brother have a great day
It's refreshing to see at least one person recognize that color temperature is not tint. Everyone wants to call color temperature "tint" and it's annoying. Hank does it, toy keeper does it, everyone does it. If color temperature is tint then what do they call actual tint? Maybe they call that tint too. Everything is tint...
I spoke too soon. Twice in the second video you called color temperature tint.
Yes, CCT and Tint are definitely different things, but I think the main source of all this confusion is that "tint ramping" is much easier to say than "CCT ramping"
We have technical terms for the amber-blue spectrum (CCT/color temperature) and for the magenta-green spectrum (DUV). Tint isn't a technical term. I use tint as a catch-all term to mean CCT and/or DUV, depending on the context.
@@tacticalgrizzly9828 to each their own. I'm going to side with adobe on this one who calls the color space between green and magenta "tint". It's only once in a blue moon that anyone every mentions "duv". I doubt most people even know what duv and bbl even are.
@@cheule I would have just called it channel ramping and channel switching.
@@lightweaverx4381 Haha! So because you have decided duv and bbl are difficult terms for you to comprehend, you decide what tint should stand for. Wise guy... I'm with the grizzly guy on this one!
Unless needing professional color matching, tint snobs are the biggest losers. Light is light
Collecting flashlights is a hobby for most, who am I to tell someone how to “hobby.”
With that "logic", then people who listen to music on quality speakers are also the biggest losers, since " sound is sound"
i wish i had that SEKONIC thing lol thats so cool i bet that cost a pretty penny lol what type of job do you have