Keeping all the tubing and everything very lightweight in the front adds rear percentage without lead.. creating an advantage of ballast being able to be put inside the spring box. More centrally located your ballast is the more controlled and balanced it makes the car.
Go watch some of my prostock races on this channel. Car has 50 percent rear and is one of the best dry track cars I’ve ever driven. Drives like a pavement car when it’s slick. I just won Perris with it on their final night.
Have you checked the IMCA rules for roll bars ??...Personally I would never drive that thing..... ROLL CAGE: Main cage must consist of continuous hoops, minimum 1.75 inch O.D. tubing, with a minimum wall thickness of 0.095 inch, low carbon or mild steel recommended. Four-post roll cage required, front down bars and rear hoop must be welded to OEM frame. Driver’s head must not protrude outside cage with helmet on. Rear hoop must have “X” brace, consisting of one full horizontal and one full diagonal bar, minimum 1.25 inch O.D. with 0.083 inch wall thickness. Front down bars must be tied together, passenger side front down bars must be maximum 11 inches in from top of door. Must be minimum 40 inches between outside edge of front and rear down bars at top of door panel. Maximum 76 inches from back of engine block to top front edge of rear hoop. Top halo must be minimum 40 inches across, and 29.5 inches front to rear, outside to outside. Rear hoop may be maximum 12 inches in from bottom of opera window. Minimum one cross bar in top halo. May have maximum two horizontal bars, (in addition to bar tying front frame horns together) for radiator protection; must be behind bumper, within confines of body, no wider than stock frame horns. Required rear kickers (down bars) and engine hoop must be minimum 1.25 inch OD tubing, with 0.083 inch wall thickness. Fuel cell protection required, must be mounted frame rail to frame rail, no higher than fuel cell, inside trunk area wit
Why are you retyping the rules.....the design is not my favorite more so the user friendliness of the lead placement for adjustments but the fabrication, and fitment of midevil cars is second to none! I would never own one myself cause the owner is a arrogant prick but his cars are safe 100%
I'd like to make the foot box protection a little better as well as the side bars. The tabs won't hold up a good punch. The main cage looks well done, I also rebuilt the front horn so a tube will slide in rather than just bend. @@chadschroeder288
@btuff nice I agree on the foot box I feel all chassis could use a little more! I drove the b&b house car last few years there's are about the best for driver protection bars! But aslong as you address rear-end you will be good with that car awesome that you doing this with your daughter!
Yeah man. Nice dude
Looks like a great father/daughter project. I love the blue.
Awesome
Keeping all the tubing and everything very lightweight in the front adds rear percentage without lead.. creating an advantage of ballast being able to be put inside the spring box. More centrally located your ballast is the more controlled and balanced it makes the car.
Go watch some of my prostock races on this channel. Car has 50 percent rear and is one of the best dry track cars I’ve ever driven. Drives like a pavement car when it’s slick. I just won Perris with it on their final night.
Seems like the IMCA Stock Cars are getting pretty popular here in Central California
East of California they are really big. Some of these places have over 40 cars a night showing up.
Have to let's us know when ur racing at Bakersfield Speedway
Oh a Medieval 😅
Bad ass project Billy! That car is in amazing condition, zero hours. What are you guys going to name it?
Blue thunder
Have you checked the IMCA rules for roll bars ??...Personally I would never drive that thing..... ROLL CAGE: Main cage must consist of continuous hoops, minimum 1.75 inch O.D. tubing, with a minimum wall thickness of 0.095 inch, low carbon or mild steel recommended. Four-post roll cage required, front down bars and rear hoop must be welded to OEM frame. Driver’s head must not protrude outside cage with helmet on. Rear hoop must have “X” brace, consisting of one full horizontal and one full diagonal bar, minimum 1.25 inch O.D. with 0.083 inch wall thickness. Front down bars must be tied together, passenger side front down bars must be maximum 11 inches in from top of door. Must be minimum 40 inches between outside edge of front and rear down bars at top of door panel. Maximum 76 inches from back of engine block to top front edge of rear hoop. Top halo must be minimum 40 inches across, and 29.5 inches front to rear, outside to outside. Rear hoop may be maximum 12 inches in from bottom of opera window. Minimum one cross bar in top halo. May have maximum two horizontal bars, (in addition to bar tying front frame horns together) for radiator protection; must be behind bumper, within confines of body, no wider than stock frame horns. Required rear kickers (down bars) and engine hoop must be minimum 1.25 inch OD tubing, with 0.083 inch wall thickness. Fuel cell protection required, must be mounted frame rail to frame rail, no higher than fuel cell, inside trunk area wit
What part is in violation?
Why are you retyping the rules.....the design is not my favorite more so the user friendliness of the lead placement for adjustments but the fabrication, and fitment of midevil cars is second to none! I would never own one myself cause the owner is a arrogant prick but his cars are safe 100%
I'd like to make the foot box protection a little better as well as the side bars. The tabs won't hold up a good punch. The main cage looks well done, I also rebuilt the front horn so a tube will slide in rather than just bend. @@chadschroeder288
@btuff nice I agree on the foot box I feel all chassis could use a little more! I drove the b&b house car last few years there's are about the best for driver protection bars! But aslong as you address rear-end you will be good with that car awesome that you doing this with your daughter!
The rear bumper is not upside down..... if it has a medieval rear-end change it or you will struggle
I've rebuilt the front for a Camaro rear bumper and I'm going to make my own rear.
You call your daughter man and dude 😂