Sailing, Sailboats, Choosing the right keel, Sailboat keel comparisons
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Sailing, Sailboats, Choosing the right keel, Sailboat keel comparisons, full keel , in this series I would like to share as much information as possible to help you successfully choose your sailboats keel. There are numerous misconceptions about keels, what is the correct one and what keels can do what. Today I will start withfin keels and go through each of the popular keel types in this series called Keel TALK
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Not much of a comparison if it's just 3 flavors of the same keel, where's the full, the twin keel/bilge keel, the centerboard etc.?
In the bilge keel, fin keel, full keel videos
What kind of maintanance should i do for a bolt on keel?
Great information on a subject that is usually glossed over. It all gets bunched up in that whole "Blue water sailboat" conversation where traditionalists tend to dominate the conversation and ignore the fact that there's not one "right boat" for everyone.
Exactly, thank you fornwatching and taking the time to comment 👍
In the old days, when I was growing up, a "fin keel" was any keel that was not blended into the hull. It was possible then to have a full length fin keel. Keels were the judged by what portion of the Water Line their top took up.
"Traditional" boats had "full" and 3/4 keels, meaning the keels took up all, or 3/4 the length of the Waterline. More "modern" boats had 1/2 to 1/4 keels, defined by the same criteria.
That system, in my opinion, was a better clarification system. I wouldn't want a boat with anything less than a 1/4 keel, because, shorter than that, real structural issues creep in--especislly if the keel strikes the bottom, or other underwater obstacle. This is because the attachment joint, on the shorter ones, is both shorter and narrower. This is often compounded with the addition of a "bulb" or "wing" on the bottom of it,to get sufficient righting moment. This means a lot of bending loads on the keel-hull joint with minimal structural support there.
A number of boats with this type of keels have lost their keels, and often quite far from shore. This ends up with the boat capsized and often sinking too.
1/2 to 1/4 keels, without bulbs or wings on the bottom, often have higher centers of gravity than longer keels. This is because the actual ballast portion of the keel takes up a greater portion of its volume.
Except for very short versions, keels come with two components:
With fiberglass boats, these are the "stub" and the "ballast slug". With wooden boats, its the "deadwood" and the "ballast slug". With a long keel, it is possible to have the "slug" portion be a relatively shallow strip of dense metal, usually iron or lead, along the very bottom.
With a shorter keel, this is not possible without a bulb or wing on the bottom of it.
In my view, for cruising anywhere near shallow waters, a 1/4 keel should be the minimum, and a 1/2 keel, with a skeg-attached rudder, would be ultimate.
your step by step guides are illuminating. They have slowed my thoughts and, it is clear to me, saved me money already.
Awe thank you, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
Great job giving unbiased information on both full and fin keels in your last two videos.
Lever is said leeever in uk!
What boat is it at 7:15 in the video?
one for the algorithm.
Bingo
Reef Busters. Also known as semi-submerged shipping container collision survivors. Which can be important when you're three weeks from the nearest travel lift. The smallest leak will sink your boat if it can last longer than your batteries and diesel can pump it out.
Agree
Might have the seas part while sailing, should have mentioned that as well, might need bilge keel then
This was a good bit of info Chris. Proud of you bro. And 1 for the algorithm baby 👍🏼
Semi heavy displacement keel is the answer!!!!!!
wait, what IS the matience for a bolt on fin keel?
take 2
different keel ;)
Fascinating!
Thanks!
Thabk you thank you
Love these Keel descriptions .
Love this info