One problem I've run into during cold weather is that the connections are not as solid (due to contraction of the metal) and there's not enough power getting to the engine. To solve, I remove all the cars and just run the engine around the track for 5 - 10 minutes to heat it up enough to pull the cars. There is also electrode gel that can be spread on a track to improve conductance.
@@Reker1million I had it on the floor where it gets a bit of a draft in the winter. The advice came from the guy who created the "12V Dream Layout" video. He lived up in Canada.
Back to 1985: We were 30 children in the elementary school (in Austria we call it „Volksschule“) Only to boys of the class had a Lego Train: Klaus, the son of a bakery family got the 7745 and I got the 7735 for Xmas (we call it „vom Christkind“) in 1985. I was just 6 and a half years old. My parents paid 2.300.- Schilling (the former currency in Austria until 2002) for the 7735 Train, 7864 transformator, 7856 Points and additional straight rails. Adjusted for inflation that are in today's money 360.- Euro or 385.- US Dollar. 😰
Hey Clarus! What a memory... Although, by today's standards, a sealed 7735 and the other sets sealed for $385 is a bargain! To think, now you have 4x 7750...
@@thenetheriteminecartzactnm You don't need a voltage converter and in fact there were LEGO 12V transformers with Australian plugs! Check ebay.au and local auction sites, or Bricklink stores in Australia.
@@Reker1million I knew I wouldn't need a voltage converter because we use the same voltage as Europe, it was just we use different plugs, so thank you for the information, but what about 9V, were there 9V transformers with Australian plugs? And also that was a nice quick reply. Also you earned a free sub from me!
I bought the 7740 and when I plugged it into my 220v converter box then I plugged in the transformer, it was working great. I added the signal and it was still good. But after about 20 runs it stopped working. The lights would work but the train is not moving. It sparks a lot too. Do you know how to fix this?
That sounds like a broken commutator issue. I've had 2 motors with this kind of problem and they behaved like you described, unfortunately this issue is pretty much impossible to fix. The only way I was able to salvage one of mine was by donating a replacement DC motor from a separate 12v train motor. I actually did a video on this (ua-cam.com/video/LtkAYPd3Et4/v-deo.html), maybe it will help. Good luck fixing yours, if you choose to try!
Hello, I just bought this train along with the remote controller, the remote is European tho. Can I use a European to USA plug converter? Or do I need the voltage changer box?
I haven't tried one of those travel adapters, I'm not sure if it would work since I think the 12v transformers are meant to run off 220V power. I don't think you would damage the transformer since US outlets are 120V, it just wouldn't be feeding the 12v transformer enough power- probably no harm in trying and you could save yourself $20-40 on a voltage converter.
My sleeper plates often broke while detaching with the plastic rails. Do you have tips for safely detaching them while not broking any of them? Think I had to purchase more online😅
Thanks for the comment! Usually, I try to pull the plastic rails straight up from the sleeper- I know those clips often break and it's even more of an issue with the older ones (767, without cable grooves) since they're more brittle. I've found that pulling the rails straight up has a lower chance of breaking them- sometimes it's easier to hold the rail, and push the sleeper away from the rail (down) gently but firmly with the tips of your fingers. For point connections ( + decoupler and cross track), I hold the point base and push the sleeper down to disconnect the point from the other connected track- thankfully, I haven't broken any points yet...
Hello reker1million, I bought the 7745 train recently and one of it’s gummi things on the weels keep coming off. It usually happens when going high speeds or normal speeds. Do you know how to fix this? Regards
Hi, thanks for the comment! I usually use replacement bands from a seller in the Netherlands and they work well - here's the link to their store: www.ebay.com/str/12vtrainmisbshop
Cranking the transformer all the way up is the fastest it can go... I suppose you could experiment with putting more voltage (>18V) into it, but you might fry the motor!
One problem I've run into during cold weather is that the connections are not as solid (due to contraction of the metal) and there's not enough power getting to the engine. To solve, I remove all the cars and just run the engine around the track for 5 - 10 minutes to heat it up enough to pull the cars. There is also electrode gel that can be spread on a track to improve conductance.
Interesting! I've never had that problem, but that may be because I have a good heater (even though it gets cold in the winter).
@@Reker1million I had it on the floor where it gets a bit of a draft in the winter. The advice came from the guy who created the "12V Dream Layout" video. He
lived up in Canada.
Back to 1985: We were 30 children in the elementary school (in Austria we call it „Volksschule“) Only to boys of the class had a Lego Train: Klaus, the son of a bakery family got the 7745 and I got the 7735 for Xmas (we call it „vom Christkind“) in 1985. I was just 6 and a half years old. My parents paid 2.300.- Schilling (the former currency in Austria until 2002) for the 7735 Train, 7864 transformator, 7856 Points and additional straight rails. Adjusted for inflation that are in today's money 360.- Euro or 385.- US Dollar. 😰
Hey Clarus! What a memory... Although, by today's standards, a sealed 7735 and the other sets sealed for $385 is a bargain! To think, now you have 4x 7750...
Yeesh... now you can find these sets cheaper than that! No wonder only two of you had these trains
@@Reker1million I'm in Australia, here we use 240/250 volts so would I not need a voltage converter to get into 9V and 12V Lego trains?
@@thenetheriteminecartzactnm You don't need a voltage converter and in fact there were LEGO 12V transformers with Australian plugs! Check ebay.au and local auction sites, or Bricklink stores in Australia.
@@Reker1million I knew I wouldn't need a voltage converter because we use the same voltage as Europe, it was just we use different plugs, so thank you for the information, but what about 9V, were there 9V transformers with Australian plugs? And also that was a nice quick reply. Also you earned a free sub from me!
I bought the 7740 and when I plugged it into my 220v converter box then I plugged in the transformer, it was working great. I added the signal and it was still good. But after about 20 runs it stopped working. The lights would work but the train is not moving. It sparks a lot too. Do you know how to fix this?
That sounds like a broken commutator issue. I've had 2 motors with this kind of problem and they behaved like you described, unfortunately this issue is pretty much impossible to fix. The only way I was able to salvage one of mine was by donating a replacement DC motor from a separate 12v train motor. I actually did a video on this (ua-cam.com/video/LtkAYPd3Et4/v-deo.html), maybe it will help. Good luck fixing yours, if you choose to try!
@@Reker1million thank you so much!
No problem! If you have any other questions let me know.
Hello, I just bought this train along with the remote controller, the remote is European tho. Can I use a European to USA plug converter? Or do I need the voltage changer box?
I haven't tried one of those travel adapters, I'm not sure if it would work since I think the 12v transformers are meant to run off 220V power. I don't think you would damage the transformer since US outlets are 120V, it just wouldn't be feeding the 12v transformer enough power- probably no harm in trying and you could save yourself $20-40 on a voltage converter.
My sleeper plates often broke while detaching with the plastic rails. Do you have tips for safely detaching them while not broking any of them? Think I had to purchase more online😅
Thanks for the comment! Usually, I try to pull the plastic rails straight up from the sleeper- I know those clips often break and it's even more of an issue with the older ones (767, without cable grooves) since they're more brittle. I've found that pulling the rails straight up has a lower chance of breaking them- sometimes it's easier to hold the rail, and push the sleeper away from the rail (down) gently but firmly with the tips of your fingers. For point connections ( + decoupler and cross track), I hold the point base and push the sleeper down to disconnect the point from the other connected track- thankfully, I haven't broken any points yet...
@@Reker1million Much thanks for the tips! May try your way later dissembling the rails. Heartbreaking every time the clips are breaking😭
Hello reker1million,
I bought the 7745 train recently and one of it’s gummi things on the weels keep coming off.
It usually happens when going high speeds or normal speeds.
Do you know how to fix this?
Regards
Hi, thanks for the comment! I usually use replacement bands from a seller in the Netherlands and they work well - here's the link to their store: www.ebay.com/str/12vtrainmisbshop
@@Reker1million thank you for answering!!
is there a way to make it go quicker other then on full speed?
Cranking the transformer all the way up is the fastest it can go... I suppose you could experiment with putting more voltage (>18V) into it, but you might fry the motor!