2017 Chevrolet Silverado Secondary Battery Installation
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2021
- This is a DIY video on adding a second battery to your Chevrolet Silverado. Mine is a 2017 Model with at 4.2 Liter V-6. This process will work for most Silverado applications. just use common sense when working on your vehicle. There are links below for all of the parts and materials. Give us a thumbs up and a join our channel. Leave questions or comments down below. Thanks for watching!
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Terminal end set amzn.to/3m8OPW1
Red & Black wire for project amzn.to/3kHWV8q
Lug kit with heat set tubing amzn.to/39Ho7xF
Glarks 2 Piece Wire Crimper/cutter amzn.to/3EYcKjd
InstallGear 150 Amp breakers amzn.to/3kJTWME
Keyline Charger Dual Battery Isolator amzn.to/3zMayrm
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Make sure the parts fit for your vehicle and make!!! - Авто та транспорт
I have a 2016 Suburban and I'm about to add a battery as you've done here.
Seems clear given your instruction.
best video out there. i have researched hundreds of videos and nothing compares to this detail
Thanks!!!
Great video. Excellent instructional John , better than all the others by far.
Great video!! Super well explained.
btw ... the gauge in the dash reflects voltages, not amps
He did a great job and I love the attention to detail but .... There was no need to buy bolts or make a hole in the main battery cap.. the drawing on top of the cap shows u if u don't find it obvious that the (red cap ) on top of it is hiding the extra post u need to connect the extra cable without the need to make any holes or take the cap of tthe main battery off.. which makes alot of sense ... If u got a spot design for a extra battery the cap of the main battery is designed with and. Extra positive post. 😊
That red cap covers a stud you can use for jumping your truck so you don't have to remove the cover that's covering the positive bus bar and battery positive post. I believe older models had a red flip up cover over the positive post for this purpose. Symbols on the lid says to not pressure wash it/symbol of a battery and closing the lid. You can connect the battery cable to that, but you have to remove the cover, unbolt that stud to connect your extra cable. You will still need to notch out the sides for the cable to exit so the lid will close properly. That's how I connected my cable for the dual battery setup.
Best video on UA-cam on this! Liked and subscribed!! I have a 16 Escalade and I’m planning on using this for an audio system as I have upgraded the stock battery and just have the stock battery sitting in the garage. I plan on moving the upgraded battery as the secondary handling the audio and putting back the stock as the primary but is it crucial to run the secondary ground to the meter instead of just grounding to the chassis?
You mentioned using #4 AWG wire in the beginning of your video but the link you provided is for #8 AWG wire. Is the correct size the #4 AWG or #8 AWG wire? Thank you. Wonderful video.
Couldn't you modify the original plate?
This works for 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 base model ?
Do you have to run a full Negative line back to the main battery, or can't you just attach it to the body or to the engine block to begin with?
Good video, except for one thing, you should not have ran the ground wire from the 2nd battery to the 1st battery through the current sensor. That sensor is a hall effect current sensor, which means it can measure current in both directions (it actually measures the magnetic field created by the current, and the direction of the current affects the field strength)
Lets follow the charging current path for the 2nd battery. It goes from the alternator, to the 2nd battery, then through the ground wire to the 1st battery, then through the factory ground wire to the engine, then back to the alternator.
The way you ran the ground through the sensor, it's going to measure the current (lets say 30amps) in one direction, then as the current returns through the factory ground wire, it will measure those 30 amps in the opposite direction. The resulting reading will be the differential current (or net current) of 30 -30, which is 0 amps. This means the sensor will be under reporting the alternator output to the computer (as any current the second battery is absorbing will always be 0), which could lead to overdriving the alternator and overcharging the batteries, which will reduce their life.
The opposite would be true if you ran the ground wire through the sensor in the other direction. Put simply, the 30 amps would flow through the sensor twice in the same direction, and you would read 60 amps. The sensor would be over reporting the current, and you would then under charge your batteries.
The solution would be to remove the ground wire from the sensor. Now it will read the 30 amps as it runs through the factory ground wire on its path back to the alternator.
So do you run the negative from first battery through sensor and not 2nd one or just the factory ground wires only
@@cameronyager1113
Just run the ground wire from the second battery straight to the first battery. Leave the factory ground wire and current sensor configured as is
What did you terminate your smaller ground with after you cut?
great vid... quick q... what is the foam on your oil dipstick for??
Never noticed it before. Nothing that I know of.
Actually if you hook to ground all the current will be monitored through the factory ground.
Excelent Instructional video. I have a question. When you ran the new negative cable between the batteries, did you run it through the amp meter? I like your setup and wonder if it is still working as it should. My plan is to use a deep cycle battery as my secondary to provide power under my bed cap. Would this setup accomplish that goal?
Yes I did. Everything works perfectly.
I have a 2017 GMC Denali is there enough room to run the negative wire from the new battery through the amp meter ring?
I wouldn't think it would be any difference.
My 2017 2500HD does not have an ampmeter. Called chevy and they said that year does not have one. Can I just ground the black cable off the new battery straight to the frame, or do I need to run it to the ground terminal of the old one?
I don’t know why not. Should be fine
Only true parallel dual battery hook up on UA-cam. Everone is grounding the second battery anywhere except the main battery. True parallel negative to negative. Main negative ground to block/ alternator/ frame , back of block also grounded to frame
Question for clarification. The amp detector is measuring the current being used by the main battery. The second battery is an auxiliary battery and the positive side is connecting to the positive side of the main battery. The current from the aux battery is feeding the main battery. So why do you want to measure the current from the aux battery? the aux battery is basically charging the main battery. The vehicle is feeding off of the main battery. Seems like an unnecessary extra step. Please confirm.
I use it just the opposite of what you are describing. All power goes from the alternator to the main battery. From the main it flows through the battery isolator to the auxiliary. I pull all my accessories, 12V power to the bed, USB charging and flood lights from the auxiliary. The main is protected from being drawn down and I can even jump it from the auxiliary if needed.
The point of this set up is that the truck computer only lets u use 20 mins or less depending on how many accessories you have connected using power of the main battery it will cutoff the power to all 12v and USB plugs to protect the main battery from not having the cranking amp it needs to make the starter be able to turn the engine on... The point of the extra battery with a smart isolator is ... While the truck is running the alternator charges the main battery.... And the isolator makes sure the extra battery gets fully charged and then cuts it off helping the alternator not ask more power from the engine to put out more voltage and to charge the batteries since from 2011 and up the alternators can accelerate the engines to make more revolutions to either charge the battery faster or slower and not damage it by overcharging cuz they are smart alternator too then when you turn the truck off it isolates the main battery fully charged so any accessories you connect won't depleted the main battery and will only use the power off the second battery making sure you never have to worry about the main battery having issues not having the cranking amp it needs to turn engine ON. and allowing you more alot.. more TIME to be use than those 15 to 20 minutes that u had before the computer will shut off all 12v outlets and USB plugs to protect the main battery not have any cranking amps issues staring the engine .. so why the extra power and smart isolator?? Cuz you will have a lot more time using all ur accessories with out the need to turn the truck on and waste gasoline. 😊
What happens if I don’t run the ground through the amp reader? It willnt read the amperage from the second battery?
It will just read the primary. You can see a little different in the charging with both running inside. The over cranking power is still the same from the primary
i presume the 2016 Chevrolet silverado 1500 LT is very similar to the 2017 you have on here?
@ 40:07 I told a friend one day his motorcycle was smoking, he said if it isn't smoking it's not running
I don’t see how going through the ammeter makes any difference. The current’s gonna cancel out anyway because it’s going the opposite direction. What happens if you don’t do it?
I'm GLAD someone else picked up on this. I was thinking the same thing. I think the cable should be ran through the opposite side of the meter so it won't cancel out the readings.
Hi there, i bought everything such as you did to do this job. Only thing different is that my truck is 2018 GMC All Terrain Edition with the same engine as your truck. since you've installed this system has it been working good? or have you had any problems with it? Great Video!! thank you!!
No issues here
Question I didn’t see where did u ground the ground the came from the second battery it don’t show on the video
It goes to the primary battery. Route it all the way around through the ohm sensor and the the primary battery ground.
Thank u so much for your help
I see that u have 3 grounds after u cut it from the oem batter what is the little cable for ?
It’s for a light bar
Ok I thought it was part of the battery kit thank u
You know, it probably would have cost Chevy an extra nickel to just put the right battery tray in there to begin with.
Wonder if you could just drill a hole in the plate and put a rivnut in.
AMP meter must have started ated in 17. No such device on my 16 2500
Need to git rid of the wingnuts.