Machine sewing a watch strap uses two spools of thread: the top thread (Oberfaden) and the bobbin thread (Unterfaden). The bobbin thread only shows at the bottom, and the top thread only shows at the top. It is just as easy to match the bobbin thread to the strap lining as it is to use the same colour as the top thread. Different coloured thread showing on the lining side isn't evidence of cheap construction, except insofar as it is an indicator of machine rather than hand sewing. You can achieve the same effect when hand sewing if you use a stitching awl (with a bobbin inside) rather than saddle stitching: rather than using a single thread to push through each hole and to secure each stitch, you can use a separate thread in a different colour to stitch and to secure.
Leather worker here! For the strap linings the most common problem is actually that crappy leather is used. I've found straps that have like a canvas impregnated with "leather" residues and is marked as "genuine leather". On quality straps or handmade ones made from high end artisans you can expect premium calf usually, on my straps I use Zermatt Calf leather from tannery Haas, which is specifically designed to be used on watch strap linings for example! Glad to see a video with many insights about the leather working processes to educate people about what they are buying!
A like and comment to feed the algorithm. Useful for me as I just bought a Longines Heritage Diver, on a sailcloth strap. I'm planning to buy a couple of interchangeable straps.
Are you happy with the Longines? I just received the Certina DS PH200M about 1 month ago. It was down to the Mido Ocean Star Tribute, the Longines Heritage & the Certina. I made the right decision for me, however the Longines is a gorgeous timepiece.
thanks for the useful video! I'd love if you had gone even deeper and given your opinion of say branded Omega or JLC straps costing €300 vs. say the €100-150 straps some youtubers sell vs. say Hirsch or Morrellato, both of which I have often found perfectly good and cost less than €40. I often feel that given the strap is for a luxury watch people think they can overcharge
It took me years to figure out why I hated my straps so much. i thought they just needed time to break in, but the reality was, they just had this plasticky varnish over the top. A lot of the straps sold at local jewelers in the US were like this. Thanks to the internet, I can now find exactly what I want in the way of straps. And often times for not much more money than the cheap looking ones I used to buy. I feel bad for you that Allen Edmonds cost so much in Europe. I live just 15 miles from the factory in Wisconsin and I find deals on AE for often $150 or even less sometimes. (though not for their iconic models like the Strand or the Park Avenue). Kudos for you and your part time Wallet business. I am a recent convert to quality minimalist wallets. My current wallet is from a local place here in Wisconsin called Mitchell Leather Works. I bought one of their Wallets made out of Horween leather, and 18 months on, it still looks and functions great.
Just wanted to mention that if you put a different color thread in the bobin when using a machine you will get different color from top to bottom so they may be sewn all the way through. Just a thought
Your new shoes will last decades. Very wise choice. I've had my AE shoes for a few years, and with shoe trees and proper maintenance, they will look better than new for many years to come.
Thanks for sharing this Tim - I have been dabbling in a bit of leather work myself, but have yet to make a decent watch strap - your work and perspectives are an inspiration ⌚✊🏼
Took the words out of my mouth, even "ect leather" will improve and wear better when treated and it will also make them waterproof, if you think about it saddles and bridles have to be rain and river proof, you can swim a leather saddle for instance, or the horse can with you aboard. Salt water WILL feck leather tho....
Thank you! I just bought a beautiful vintage gold GS and I've been looking for a great strap to go with it. Now I know a little bit better what to look for. Also, I really really enjoy your music. Bravo!
Thank you very much for this video on leather straps. I wonder why there are not more videos on this subject. In fact, when you say that you have hundreds of leather straps I was hoping that you would show us many more. In my city I don't have any shop with a big stock of leather straps... I would really appreciate videos on the best of them. Perhaps you could show us the work of other people as you do with watches. I would love to buy more straps but when I do on the internet most of the times I am disappointed either by the color, the quality or just because it is not quite the match I expected... and they can really make the difference. I bought a vintage Datejust on a leather strap and it was nice, but man, what a change the day I bought the jubilee! I am sure I am not the only one thinking that this is like wearing the best suit with the wrong shoes. By the way, Tim, I encourage you to start using your own name as a brand. Caseback Watches is a nice name don't get me wrong, but it hides the real value on this channel which is not the watches (and even less their caseback), but your personal taste and opinions, your friendliness, the way you communicate and even your music. I just realised that you show Spanish Sherry "Amontillado" on your intro. Muy bien!!!! Don't forget to try some Jamón Ibérico of the best quality next time you visit us If you haven't already. You will thank me for this piece of advice. Cheers and keep the good work!
I just received 2 Rios straps from Germany. Extremely pleased with the quality, especially the single riveted pilot strap made from vintage leather. I think I'll try Eichmüller next. Thank-you for the performance Tim. Live music seems like a distant memory.
Another great video yet again. Always great information and content. Love the leather work and can appreciate the handmade workmanship. The musical ending is always a great bonus. Love anything Django...... My problem with straps is I can't seem to find a manufacturer who makes long enough leather straps to fit my 8" wrist and not end up always having to be useing the last hole. Yes they just about fits but useing the last hole makes it look terrible and I can't always keep the tail end in the loops. Can anyone help please?
'Chinese music always sets me free, Angular banjos sound good to me' Steely Dan - Aja Great playing man! The stuff you put on the leather, I think is called 'dubbin'. We used to put on our football boots back in the day. Shouldn't your Presscard be tucked into your hatband? 'Let me through, I'm a hungry newshound!' Love those brogue shoes :)
There is an old saying in English (usually expressed when one is gambling and hoping for a winning result, but sometimes used when embarking on a risky business venture as well) "Baby needs a new pair of shoes." Using the wallet money for shoes made me think of that. :)
As for wallets--I have stopped carrying a bill-fold: now I just have a carrier for my 2-3 ID cards, a single bank card, and maybe enough space to shove a bank note. Slimline is the way forward!
I loved everything about this episode; but especially the Django Reinhart tune ... Terrific ! btw - Have You had the opportunity, to check "Hell Bent for Leather ... the Saga of the A- 2 & G-1 Flight Jackets" ? (by Derick Nelson & Dave Parsons) On a previous video, I may have misdirected you ? As the Title was incomplete. So, your computer may have taken you to a old movie western ! Hope this will correct the issue. And better still You'll enjoy the book.
I wish that I would have seen this video three days ago. I bought a leather strap off of ebay. One thing that I have noticed is that many sellers only show the top side of the strap and no edges
Hi Tim, great Video! I assume from your subtle accent and the Giro-Card, that you are German. Do you have any suggestions for a good online or brick and mortar shop based in Germany, best case in Hamburg. Cheers, Thorben
Just sent my email.... please do a video for hot/humid weather straps soon.... Also you have me hooked on Django Reinhardt to the consternation of my father who is a devoted smooth jazz person...(many many car trips with miles davis in the background)
@@IDKline I stand corrected but I think Miles Davis' later work falls into the Smooth Jazz category which is what dad is into. But yes cool jazz and bebop also featured. I've always preferred Brubeck over Miles Davis and later went towards swing etc...
@@shaharyarsheikh5291 Take 5 is most definitely one of the great albums of the era, but Kind of Blue? Simply breathtaking. That said, everyone needs a little pocket in their heart for Gypsy Jazz!... and Hard Bop. And the Avant Garde. And Swing... Life's to short to be picky! 😊
Yes we all know Tim has a not so secret life as a jazz musician. But he obviously needs a line of products making expensive jazz inspired BDSM gear. Matching burgundy leather guitar strap and whip perhaps?
Having different colored thread on the top and bottom does not suggest anything about quality. It does suggest that it was not hand sewn but instead machine sewn. A saddle stitch would make it impossible to have one color on one side.
@@CasebackWatches I think I may have not been clear with my original post. I was simply stating that a saddle stitch cant create a stitch where one side has one color and a separate color on the other side. If you value a hand stitched watch strap, difference in color is an indication that it was machine stitched. However, neither method would be a sole indication of a poorly made watch strap. Poor materials and a lack of stitching are a good indicator. Also, glue is used in every single strap I have ever made. And I can say the same with every other strap maker with a two ply strap. Not trying to be negative, just want to clarify because there is a lot of mis-information as it relates to quality of leather goods. Before I started making leather products, I was guilty of many of these as well.
Machine sewing a watch strap uses two spools of thread: the top thread (Oberfaden) and the bobbin thread (Unterfaden). The bobbin thread only shows at the bottom, and the top thread only shows at the top. It is just as easy to match the bobbin thread to the strap lining as it is to use the same colour as the top thread. Different coloured thread showing on the lining side isn't evidence of cheap construction, except insofar as it is an indicator of machine rather than hand sewing. You can achieve the same effect when hand sewing if you use a stitching awl (with a bobbin inside) rather than saddle stitching: rather than using a single thread to push through each hole and to secure each stitch, you can use a separate thread in a different colour to stitch and to secure.
Good correction, thank you.
Thank you Lynette - something to be learned, thank you !
Leather worker here! For the strap linings the most common problem is actually that crappy leather is used. I've found straps that have like a canvas impregnated with "leather" residues and is marked as "genuine leather". On quality straps or handmade ones made from high end artisans you can expect premium calf usually, on my straps I use Zermatt Calf leather from tannery Haas, which is specifically designed to be used on watch strap linings for example! Glad to see a video with many insights about the leather working processes to educate people about what they are buying!
The wallets are sold out. Big thank you to all supporters! I will get in contact with you today.
sent my email for two
@@shaharyarsheikh5291 Received ;-)
@@CasebackWatches awesome😉
Wow wow.
So many talents.
We are enjoying the fruits of all your dedicated work.
Thank you ☺️
Thanks for watching!
With your interest in watches, and leather, the obvious product you should make and sell to your channel viewers is a leather watch roll/travel roll.
...even a single watch 'travel' pouch. Great for those days when your plans call for different types of timepiece.
I love your videos from style to watches and especially leather! Thanks Tim
Thanks for watching!
skipped straight to the song. And gave that thumbs up.
Loving the content
Thanks, glad to hear that!
I didn't skip straight to the music, but I arrived there in good time. Glad you added the end notes, Tim. A nice way to wrap things up.
Hey Tim, I had to work all my way thru this leather thing until finally be rewarded by this nice guitar concert .
Peter, I‘ve made time stamps for you! 😉
You mean rain checks ?
@@peterkull8354 Confused now! Babylon! :-D I was talking about the time stamps in the description. There you can jump to every part of the video.
AHHHHHHHHH, now I got you ! You´re totally right - Sir !
I always enjoy the musical outros, thanks for the tips in this video Tim, that’s high quality craftsmanship.
Those straps look amazing
Still my favourite watch channel
Great looking wallets - and shoes. In both cases, quality comes at a price, but I'd say it's the right price.
A like and comment to feed the algorithm.
Useful for me as I just bought a Longines Heritage Diver, on a sailcloth strap. I'm planning to buy a couple of interchangeable straps.
Are you happy with the Longines?
I just received the Certina DS PH200M about 1 month ago. It was down to the Mido Ocean Star Tribute, the Longines Heritage & the Certina.
I made the right decision for me, however the Longines is a gorgeous timepiece.
thanks for the useful video! I'd love if you had gone even deeper and given your opinion of say branded Omega or JLC straps costing €300 vs. say the €100-150 straps some youtubers sell vs. say Hirsch or Morrellato, both of which I have often found perfectly good and cost less than €40. I often feel that given the strap is for a luxury watch people think they can overcharge
It took me years to figure out why I hated my straps so much. i thought they just needed time to break in, but the reality was, they just had this plasticky varnish over the top. A lot of the straps sold at local jewelers in the US were like this. Thanks to the internet, I can now find exactly what I want in the way of straps. And often times for not much more money than the cheap looking ones I used to buy.
I feel bad for you that Allen Edmonds cost so much in Europe. I live just 15 miles from the factory in Wisconsin and I find deals on AE for often $150 or even less sometimes. (though not for their iconic models like the Strand or the Park Avenue).
Kudos for you and your part time Wallet business. I am a recent convert to quality minimalist wallets. My current wallet is from a local place here in Wisconsin called Mitchell Leather Works. I bought one of their Wallets made out of Horween leather, and 18 months on, it still looks and functions great.
Nice music and guitar playing Tim!
Thank you!
Just wanted to mention that if you put a different color thread in the bobin when using a machine you will get different color from top to bottom so they may be sewn all the way through. Just a thought
I am sure only guys playing guitar understand the difficulty of what you play. A lot more difficult than people think.....always a pleasure !!
Thanks Tim, great content, information and outro of course 👍😉.
Thanks for watching!
Your new shoes will last decades. Very wise choice. I've had my AE shoes for a few years, and with shoe trees and proper maintenance, they will look better than new for many years to come.
Thanks for sharing this Tim - I have been dabbling in a bit of leather work myself, but have yet to make a decent watch strap - your work and perspectives are an inspiration ⌚✊🏼
...and €160 for one of those wallets is a bargain - a new pair of shoes is the least you can do for yourself!
Nice finger work on that solo. Keep it up.
‘Saddle Soap’ is a good product for cleaning and preserving leather, it contains lanolin and beeswax.
Good info, thank!
Thanks.
Took the words out of my mouth, even "ect leather" will improve and wear better when treated and it will also make them waterproof, if you think about it saddles and bridles have to be rain and river proof, you can swim a leather saddle for instance, or the horse can with you aboard. Salt water WILL feck leather tho....
Yes, good question!
They can all look good initially.
Not even close!
Great idea for a video. I can't say that I have seen this topic on any of my regular channels.
Very well played!
Thank you! I just bought a beautiful vintage gold GS and I've been looking for a great strap to go with it. Now I know a little bit better what to look for. Also, I really really enjoy your music. Bravo!
Thank you very much for this video on leather straps. I wonder why there are not more videos on this subject. In fact, when you say that you have hundreds of leather straps I was hoping that you would show us many more. In my city I don't have any shop with a big stock of leather straps... I would really appreciate videos on the best of them. Perhaps you could show us the work of other people as you do with watches. I would love to buy more straps but when I do on the internet most of the times I am disappointed either by the color, the quality or just because it is not quite the match I expected... and they can really make the difference. I bought a vintage Datejust on a leather strap and it was nice, but man, what a change the day I bought the jubilee!
I am sure I am not the only one thinking that this is like wearing the best suit with the wrong shoes.
By the way, Tim, I encourage you to start using your own name as a brand. Caseback Watches is a nice name don't get me wrong, but it hides the real value on this channel which is not the watches (and even less their caseback), but your personal taste and opinions, your friendliness, the way you communicate and even your music.
I just realised that you show Spanish Sherry "Amontillado" on your intro. Muy bien!!!! Don't forget to try some Jamón Ibérico of the best quality next time you visit us If you haven't already. You will thank me for this piece of advice. Cheers and keep the good work!
I just received 2 Rios straps from Germany. Extremely pleased with the quality, especially the single riveted pilot strap made from vintage leather.
I think I'll try Eichmüller next.
Thank-you for the performance Tim. Live music seems like a distant memory.
Another great video yet again. Always great information and content. Love the leather work and can appreciate the handmade workmanship. The musical ending is always a great bonus. Love anything Django......
My problem with straps is I can't seem to find a manufacturer who makes long enough leather straps to fit my 8" wrist and not end up always having to be useing the last hole. Yes they just about fits but useing the last hole makes it look terrible and I can't always keep the tail end in the loops. Can anyone help please?
Just received a Rios buffalo leather strap that you recommended in another video. Great quality and super affordable. Thanks for the info, Tim
'Chinese music always sets me free,
Angular banjos sound good to me'
Steely Dan - Aja
Great playing man!
The stuff you put on the leather, I think is called 'dubbin'. We used to put on our football boots back in the day.
Shouldn't your Presscard be tucked into your hatband?
'Let me through, I'm a hungry newshound!'
Love those brogue shoes :)
Thank you Tim. Maybe a next video on how to care for watch straps 👍
Very interesting Tim and a good fix of Jazz Manouche guitar...............................
Nice music , love it❤
My favorite edging I've never seen on a watch strap, but look at how R Horns in Vienna does edges
love it Tim.
There is an old saying in English (usually expressed when one is gambling and hoping for a winning result, but sometimes used when embarking on a risky business venture as well) "Baby needs a new pair of shoes."
Using the wallet money for shoes made me think of that. :)
As for wallets--I have stopped carrying a bill-fold: now I just have a carrier for my 2-3 ID cards, a single bank card, and maybe enough space to shove a bank note. Slimline is the way forward!
I wouldn’t skip clasps. I’ve found that a good deployant clasp significantly increases the lifespan of a leather strap
When can we expect the first Caseback strap collection? Has to be on the cards Tim.
Love the music!
I loved everything about this episode; but especially the Django Reinhart tune ... Terrific ! btw - Have You had the opportunity, to check "Hell Bent for Leather ... the Saga of the A- 2 & G-1 Flight Jackets" ? (by Derick Nelson & Dave Parsons) On a previous video, I may have misdirected you ? As the Title was incomplete. So, your computer may have taken you to a old movie western ! Hope this will correct the issue. And better still You'll enjoy the book.
Glad you like the video and thanks for the hint! I will check it out now.
I wish that I would have seen this video three days ago. I bought a leather strap off of ebay. One thing that I have noticed is that many sellers only show the top side of the strap and no edges
How to get one Time stamp should be 11:15
Great video. Really cool video idea. What do you think about Colareb Straps?:)
The few I've seen online had open/unsealed edges. I personally wouldn't buy them.
First! I'm on a streak....
Next time a medal!
Being second makes you the first looser !
🥇
Maybe it's just me, but I pay way too much attention to the buckle on a watch, I need it to flow with the design of the watch
Hi Tim, What do you think of Mancave Leather straps? I've bought a couple of them and have enjoyed mine.
I haven't owned one, but on images they look superb.
Hi Tim, great Video! I assume from your subtle accent and the Giro-Card, that you are German. Do you have any suggestions for a good online or brick and mortar shop based in Germany, best case in Hamburg.
Cheers,
Thorben
Just sent my email.... please do a video for hot/humid weather straps soon.... Also you have me hooked on Django Reinhardt to the consternation of my father who is a devoted smooth jazz person...(many many car trips with miles davis in the background)
@@IDKline I stand corrected but I think Miles Davis' later work falls into the Smooth Jazz category which is what dad is into. But yes cool jazz and bebop also featured. I've always preferred Brubeck over Miles Davis and later went towards swing etc...
@@shaharyarsheikh5291
Take 5 is most definitely one of the great albums of the era, but Kind of Blue? Simply breathtaking. That said, everyone needs a little pocket in their heart for Gypsy Jazz!... and Hard Bop. And the Avant Garde. And Swing...
Life's to short to be picky! 😊
@@IDKline
I think I lost my virginity to Kenny G.
I couldn't 'finish'.
@@IDKline
...maybe it was 'cause my hair wasn't flowing in the wind as much as Kenny's so I felt inadequate? 🤔.
😆
Have you considered working with Shell Cordovan?
Not really. I'm not the biggest fan of the rather oily look. And it can be pretty heavy compared to other leather types.
Horse hide no ciushion...is good stuff!
Not first.
My father makes leather...he usually seals the edges with a wax (not a rubber)
get the Handmade Italian Vintage Style Brown Center Cut Crocodile, Tacking-Stitching #GR-VIN02 from long island watch!
You have to start with a happy cow...
Haha, I'd love to see that kind of advertising at the wholesale leather store! "Only from happy animals"
what is the brand name of this substance in the jar that you are using for sealing?
"Ink edge". Very handy. Many manufacturers. Mine is made by Fenice.
I would like to get a wallet good sir
Thank you. They are all available at www.casebackwatches.com
Yes we all know Tim has a not so secret life as a jazz musician. But he obviously needs a line of products making expensive jazz inspired BDSM gear. Matching burgundy leather guitar strap and whip perhaps?
Arrrrg! :-D
Having different colored thread on the top and bottom does not suggest anything about quality. It does suggest that it was not hand sewn but instead machine sewn. A saddle stitch would make it impossible to have one color on one side.
I think it does. Even executed by machine a seam can be done with two substantial threads. Every domestic sewing machine demonstrates this.
@@CasebackWatches I think I may have not been clear with my original post. I was simply stating that a saddle stitch cant create a stitch where one side has one color and a separate color on the other side. If you value a hand stitched watch strap, difference in color is an indication that it was machine stitched. However, neither method would be a sole indication of a poorly made watch strap. Poor materials and a lack of stitching are a good indicator. Also, glue is used in every single strap I have ever made. And I can say the same with every other strap maker with a two ply strap. Not trying to be negative, just want to clarify because there is a lot of mis-information as it relates to quality of leather goods. Before I started making leather products, I was guilty of many of these as well.
Did I hear a string bass on your guitar recording?
Yes, but it‘s played with a keyboard.
what do you thiN k of strap master -DANGEROUS 9---D9
Me: that strap looks nice
Tim: this strap is shit
Me: that strap is shit
Need a coin holder wallet............