Thanks To You Guys It Runs & Drives! | Saab 900 Classic Revival | Part 6
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2022
- In today's episode the 1985 Saab 900 gets a couple of things done:
- New engine mounts
- Coolant system check
- Brake booster replacement
- Compression test
And more importantly we take it for its first test drive after being off the road since 2016.
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![I Rescued A Very Rusty Saab 900 Classic [100K SPECIAL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6o3G0Fnzlas/mqdefault.jpg)
Sandals.SANDALS.
You drove that thing with Sandals.
Like a Boss. Well done!
Kudos to Olli - well spotted 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks, I am always happy to help!
@@olliraappaniemi5955 Torille!
Ai täällä muitakin suomalaisia :D
@@ZyRaZz19 Missä saabeja siellä suomalaisia :DD
Well, to be honest, i never would expect an engine running at all with an 180° inverse firing order. So dont be to harsh on yourself.
why most mechanics hate working on saabs hehehe
It would run on 2 cylinders as 1 and 3 would still be in the right place.
Impressive because I've accidentally tried it and mine only back fired, wouldn't start. Realized my mistake after a trip to the internet
@@paulhewer6584 rewatched that episode, yeah, really sounded like a lawn mower when revving.
@@paulhewer6584 Exactly, and cyl. 2 and 4 spitting unburned fuel.
love how you troubleshoot an issue then find a solution.
I am loving the content of this build.
Also I like the fact that he shows troubleshooting dead ends and mistakes. It’s all part of the process and refreshing. It’s easy to edit it so it appears all problems are remedied on the first try.
M539 shows it warts and all as well. Makes for a much more rewarding watch.
Yay for correcting the thermostat gasket! Super that it now appears to run nicely. Always neat to see a SAAB of this era running.
Even here in California I NEVER see a 90/900, only a smattering of the last gasp rebodied OPEL/Subaru/Chevy pretending to be SAABs.
I look forward to seeing it get through inspection.
ah this bring back memories when I was an mechanic apprentice at a SAAB garage :D
Well done for the progress you've made with the old girl. She purring like a kitten.
Sounds like bad clutch judder due a worn diaphragm on the pressure plate.
I have the same on a Subaru with a new clutch, I suspect a warped flywheel. Get it skimmed.
Great job. It's coming together. That brake booster looked almost new. Somehow you resource the nicest parts.
Your videos are great! Makes we want to rebuild one! I applaud your troubleshooting skills. I’m a proud Saab 900 owner and repair my own. You’re an inspiration!
Lost it at brake cleaner akimbo 😂 awesome as always!
Years ago, the Ford Pinto had a common issue with clutch chatter, I have 3 with the same issues.. What happened was the rear main seal would leak oil into the clutch assembly creating the same issue as you are having with the Saab. Remove the clutch, check and clean the pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and clutch plate, Replace parts as needed.
The best car mechanic channel ive seen!
4:30 ah the saabs already marking its territory
Luckily 900 clutches probably the easiest to replace. There is a saab tool specifically for the clutch but I found a piece of thick swa cable works. Compress clutch and it all slides out as one assembly. It may be worth checking your clutch pedal as the clevis pin between master cylinder and pedal assy can cause the interface to "oval" and that 1mm wear makes the clutch pedal a little bit sloppy. Worth doing 100% whilst you have access to the pedals.. Loving the series too.
When you have a rusty stud that is as tight as the one you had break on you. Before attempting a removal, spray lots of penetrating oil, then work the stud in and out. You will find it gets easier as you clear more and more of the threads.
Disc mechanics, plateau gearbox, does this😈🏁🥇🥇🥇
Check your throttle cable, the nuts should be either side of the bracket, that's how it locks in place and gives you adjustment if required
Brilliant video though 👏
I am very fond of watching. Good luck 👍
Your video's never disappoint, always full of practical and theory content, I really like this series as its not just the normal car you find on UA-cam
"Brake cleaner Akimbo" comment had me rolling on the floor 🤣
Wow, this much recognition makes me almost blush! : D
As I said earlier, I am more than happy if I can help.
Excellent well paced video. Keep up the great work.
Very interesting, looking forward how the Saab story continues.
Broken bolts like that brake booster bolt is the reason I drench all the bolts in copper paste grease (and also soak them in rust remover several days before unbolting). It's cheap and does work in my personal experience, project farm tested both with positive results.
Great job 👏 SAAB is different and can surprise sometimes 😂😂
Yup it runs like it should. I am an old Swedish Saab mechanic so I have done service and repairs on a few of these cars. You got oil leaking out over to the clutch from the flywheel side or an engine mount is broken.
Check out the screws that holds the engine mount too.
I need to find the time to watch all of these Saab series videos!
This is coming together nice, piece by piece. Can't wait to see it complete and restored! 👍
I haven’t heard the term “Akimbo” used in years, probably since the early 2010s during the golden age of my COD days 😂 Great video as always, great to see you making headway on the Saab 🤙🏻
Get underneath first and have a good shake about on the drivetrain and exhaust mounts before you pull that bell housing .
Also check driveshafts for wear as it may be the drive train knocking.
I can watch you all day superb
Nice. Incredible that the engine ran with such a mix up of the plug leads.
I would take a look at the tripod bearings for the axle shafts, and feel for wear in the cups if you pull them out. You could rotate the wheels and watch there for excessive play, without having to take it apart. If you do have to pull any front suspension apart, the upper control arm has to be supported, the spacer tool to do this is easily found cheaply. I'd really even suggest getting one preemptively.
Good car that 900....i just drove it too Sweden and back....no pain at all....and 300K is just the start of the car
this is cooking up to one cool Saab!! keep plugging away.
Simply brilliant!
great series on the saab memphis
cant wait to see the next one cheers
Great video! You're restoring classic automotive history!
Loving this build Memphis awesome work 👍🇬🇧👍🇬🇧
Love how humble you are , and open to suggestion. Your videos are top notch!
The first drive is a great feeling!
Really enjoying these videos!
Fantastic job memphis, glad you fixed the issue.
Great work!
The 900 is finally running :D
This build, like all of yours is turning out to be fantastic. Loving every single minute detail Memphis
Fantastic progress. Looking to see some momentum in the next video.
Great stuff!
Nice! Can't wait for more!
I admire you,great projecto,well done. Congratulations.
great job man, great job.
Good stuff mate! Can't wait to see the clutch fixed and the car drivable.
You are doing a crazy good job! Keep the good work
New subscriber! I find your videos compelling viewing. Watched for a couple of months now and it's very easy to follow what you're talking the viewers through. Looking forward to seeing more on the Saab, as a follow classic 900 owner myself it feels like I could learn a thing or two from you :)
Great stuff
Much better sounds sweet
02:30 I remember the carburetor of the Volvo.
Geweldig dat ie loopt! Kan niet wachten op het vervolg, je bent lekker bezig man!
Have a look at your exhaust mounting brackets it sounds like the exhaust is knocking on the under body you might be able to see it on your ramp with the engine on tick over
NICE job man.
Really enjoyed this content.
Yep, clutch definitely needs a looksie. But nice and easy, and once it's done you'll have one of the nicest clutches on any car thanks to that concentric slave piston. While you're there, maybe replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel, even if it seems fine, it can improve disengagement and hence shifts having an absolutely perfect one. ETA >> should add, I used to have an '85 900i (mechanical injection / 8 valve) 2-door, one of the best cars I've ever owned (had to do the clutch on it).
excellent video my friend!
Good job keep going 👍🇲🇰
Another awesome video 😃😃😃😃😃😃
Tranny mount and exhaust brackets... Nice work doc..
Top series so cool to see and problem solving very top, Classe A.
Hello, the jiggle pin on the thermostat should be aligned with the bleeder valve in order to completely purge all of the air out of the system. Yours is towards the bottom.
Broken motor mounts come to mind or some rock hard bushings
Fantastic to see how well the engine runs. Looking at it, it makes sense about the direction of rotation. It is the only car I have seen where the engine is backwards in the car. With the distributor on the 'front' of the engine, but is really the back of the cam, it does make sense. Amazing how the Triumph engine works in the Saab. Solid engine, though. Can't wait to see much more.
With the engine mounts, the Saab is the same as Greta. If one is bad, do them all. The new ones can be ruined when the change in position causes the remaining mount(s) to let go.
You do such thorough work, it is a treat to see. Very well done indeed. This car is going to be a real gem when it is all finished.
well done the engine sounds great the thermostat is right now on with the rest ,I'd say it needs a clutch kit and then all will be fine keep going I am loving these videos
Earlyyy! Was waiting on this video, thanks Memphis!
On the shudder I would look at the axles. The inner trunion bearing that plug into the inner axle drivers can break and also the drivers get worn. If you put this up in the air with the suspension spacers in and grab the axle and try to move it back and forth you should not see excess play. But you may have to remove the axle assembly for a closer inspection.
I love that you're doing such a thorough job and show a desire to give this old gem the love it deserves. Although considering the rust, it would seem more logical to put your energy into your spares car XD. Anyhow, best of luck, I've decided to subscribe to see how things move along.
I spot a 6 series, a fellow men of culture, i see. Nice.
Good job
I don't know if it's already been pointed out, but the symptoms you're experiencing might as well be due to an oily clutch disc. Interesting to follow this series, these Saabs are proper well built!💪
I don't know much about cars and probably haven been of no help :D I just enjoy your videos and very excited for you :)
Glad this didn't end up a "saab story." lmao. Congrats on 100k
Excellent vid. Ive been around cars for a long while1965 through to 2022. Ive seen them all from Magneto with a starting handle to electronic ignition to stop go technologies. Thing is i had to learn how they worked. The early technologies were "agricultural". That is relatively early tech.you have there. takes a bit of learning. Don't be so hard on yerself everybody has to start somewhere. Saab were one of the better Scandi brands but they took a bit of getting yer head round. (maintaining). Good luck on yer journey. Remember with "vintage" cars every day is a school Day.👍
Toffe video weer Memphis!!!
Have in mind also that the climate control uses vacuum from the engine to open every outlet in the car.
Then you don’t have the control nob there you have a vacuum leak!
The vacuum tank for the climate control are placed behind the rear front wheel inside the fender.
Clutch judder……… if I may give a additional input. Did the car sit for many years? If I remember from your videos it had sat for years… the Symptoms are super similar to ( bmw flywheel glasing ) that makes the hole rear diff and Driveshaft jump and shake when ingage the I 1. Gear
To clean the flywheel from rust, and old clutch material, try using 2. Gear for a while if it’s possible 🤗
Thank you for great video content, Mattsson Dk
memphis pause at 1:46 for the firing order its on the saabs valve cover XD
Уважение за работу!!!! Лайк.....
Good progress. I suppose, that the surface of the clutch is corroded. Maybe some use will cure the surface and regain the original friction coefficient. Otherwise a new clutch will help.
Wow! I've never seen one in that bad a condition! Over here they're either scrapped or in amazingly good nick. :0)
I love cars that have the thermostat housing out in the open like that. My saab 9-5 is a pain to get to!
You can try get the stud out of the brake booster by welding a nut to it and untightening with an impact gun.
Add some wd40 to the stud every few hours for a day or two before you untighten the stud to help the stud loosen up.
I was afraid that the heat would kill the diaphragm
I would recommend that you go ahead and replace the transmission mount as well. Even though it’s not bad yet I promise you that it will only be a matter of time before it does go bad now that you’ve already gone ahead and replaced the other 2 motor mounts. Once one of the components is solid then the next weakest link will break, which in this case is the transmission mount. Also another thing to keep in mind is that motor and transmission mounts on manual transmission cars take a much bigger beating compared to automatics and that is because of the shifting everything tends to move around a lot so I always advise people to be aware of that if they have a stick shift car
To get the stud out of the brake booster, try welding a nut onto it then you can undo it that way.
These engines are sensetive to type and spacing of sparkplug gap. Get the right plugs and the gap should be 0.7mm if u havent already done so.
Old Saabs might need new joints on the front axle. When turning sharp you hear a cluncking noice, and you know you need new joints.
Nice result broo, btw the way I had the same vibration problem, it was from the bearing and plate insede the clutch if I am not mistaken bro ( well.. I have no technical experience like you do, but my vibration problem was fixed by mechanic with changing my clutch set bro ) Cheers😊
Since you have the inside of the car ripped out take the time to check the hole in the side of the clutch pedal for the pin that ataches it to the maincylinder. On older cars this hole has become worn out and become to wide so it might feel like the clutch is worn out cause of the extra play.
think I head a little bit of a 'weeee' on one of the engine starts. Might be a good idea to check the tension on the drive belts for the alternator. They'll squeal if they're too loose but also if they're too tight they will put pressure on all the bearings in the various anciliries and that's no good either. About 10mm deflection is about right. i.e. you can press down about 10mm on the belts.
Leuke video weer!
Great videos !, nice presentation. The clutch judder could be caused by hydraulic fluid that has leaked from the clutch slave cylinder ?. If not that, then I suppose it’s either a distorted and worn friction plate or uneven pressure plate due to the diaphragm springs failing. I’m not sure if the flywheels on those old Saabs had a thrust bearing in the flywheel ?. A very worn bearing would give some judder but probably not as much as you have there. Keep the videos coming, they’re great 👍.
Lol dual wield brake cleaner epic