Do Your Own RIG TUNING! (Sailing Satori) OTH:6
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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Printable Instructions - bit.ly/Sailboat...
Website - www.sailingsatori.life
Ever want to tune your sailboat rigging, but didn't know how... or didn't have "the right tools"? Well, this is a simple, effective technique, using nothing more than basic tools. This is how we tuned our rig on Satori.
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THE SATORI STORY
We are Nick and Kelly, two people with a spirit for adventure. Here we are documenting our journey as we travel the world with our dog Arthur aboard Satori (1989 Morgan 44 Center Cockpit Sailboat). This is a story of sailing and adventure, but its also about the beautiful souls we meet along the way. It’s a story of two people living their lives a little differently in order to gain a new perspective on our beautiful planet and the people in it. Our experiences have affected us in such a way, we are sharing them in the hopes that others will find the inspiration to do what they are passionate about. Follow your dreams!
I worked for 16 years for a fiberglass sailboat builder. We wrote instructions in the manuals on how to tune the rig. There will always have to be some deflection of stays and shrouds as you are dealing with flexible materials throughout the entire boat. Here is what the manual said as a general way to gauge tension on rigging. Backstay and forestay should be able to flex 1 to 2 inches max if you push on them when standing on the deck. Upper and Intermediate shrouds also 1 to 2 inches. Forward lower shrouds about 3 inches. Aft lower shrouds slightly loser than forward, with max at 4 inches. These instructions were approved by the marine architect and engineer working with the builder. Of course, you can also call a local rigging shop to come and tune the rig and/or advise you on doing it yourself. Also it looks like the turnbuckle body you have is bronze which when exposed to seawater will corrode to a small degree. You might consider using antiseize compound when reassembling to make it easier to keep the parts adjustable. Permatex makes one. Another compound you could use instead is Form-a-gasket also made by Permatex. There are various types but get the one that is used as a gasket sealer which never hardens. It is great stuff to keep on hand for various purposes. I have used it in place of an oil pan gasket when I couldn't get the correct one. It was easy to apply and never leaked. It works great on plumbing parts and is impervious to many materials that flow through pipes, tho I think it may dissolve in diesel oil - you would have to check the instructions on the package - plus they make many different types of gasket compounds so they may have one that seals in the presence of diesel. Also, be aware of mounting hardware to aluminum parts using stainless steel fasteners. I have see stainless steel fasteners break under torsion when trying to remove an aluminum cleat that was mounted on a mast without some type of material to isolate the metals (stainless bolts and aluminum parts). You can use antiseize or possibly even silicon sealant, or better a polysulfide bedding compound like Lifecaulk by Boatlife. By the way, never, ever use a polyurethane compound to mount anything, especially, on fiberglass. We tried it at the boatyard when we were getting lots of complaints about leaks. It worked great until a change order came through to move some hardware. It not only sealed the hardware to the deck but bonded it so strongly that the fiberglass on the deck tore when we tried to remove the hardware. Going to a polysulfide bedding compound solved the leak problems and made removal possible without damage to the boat.
Good Video. On our Morgan 43 we appreciated that the chainplates were easy to remove, inspect, clean up, and rebed. The term wobbly on the leeward shrouds may give the wrong impression but they should be very slightly loose and if they are not the rig is over tensioned and adding unnecessary stress to the rig and boat. The only viable way to determine mast straightness is sighting up the mainsail track. A top halyard, topping lift or something attached to the masthead should be stretched to a point near the chainplates, like a molded recessed area for a lifeline base, and compared to the same area on the opposite side; if the length is the same on both sides, the mast is centered and the boat will handle in a similiar manner on the opposite tack, if you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of needing to tack.
A way to see if your mast is centered is to tie or tape the end of a tape measure to the end of your main halyard and tie off the halyard a few feet above the boom. Then you can stretch the tape measure and halyard to either side of the boat and measure to the same opposite point, say a chainplate. As long as the opposite points (port and starboard) are exactly the same you should get a good idea if the mast is centered.
as I have read, normally you start from upper shrouds then going down as the closest to the deck have to be least tightest.
Thanks for the video. My boat is small so easy for me to also measure to make sure mast is centered.
Awesome. Thank you.
BTW, we bought our boat at Boot Key Harbor a couple years ago and sailed her home to New Orleans.
Thanks for the tutorial, I am getting ready to remast my sailboat Illusions and this will give me a way to check to make sure the yard has it set right. Really enjoy your videos and of course "King Arthur" !!!
Great! And the King thanks you!
Yes at 4.57 yep that's a well tuned rig !
great tutorial ! To me with this method you can get HIGHER precision than with the 300$ gauge, as reading error is reduced... BRAVOOO
I'll bet Kelly is glad she has such a competent boatswain.
Hello from the future. Thanks for this. Am going to give it a go!
Great informative vid thanks so much!! Love your channel!!
Thanks for sharing that man we all know I need to go through my rig
Thanks for the great tutorial!!
Good tip.
That is really good and thank you for sharing
Why not use tape at the top instead of a zip tie? Just curious.
Great Tips. Maybe, while your moving around see if you can borrow a gauge & fine tune it. The King 👑 has to make a spot in every video ‼️👍👑⛵️🐕. Vinny 🇺🇸
Great video thanks it helps a lot 👍
100% correct
Thanks. This helps a lot
My pleasure!
Great tips!
Thanks! 👍🏼
I dont know how you can make sure the mast is not listing because dont you have to make the same number of turns on the port and starboard turnbuckle so just looking for that 1/8" stretch must be done incrementally from side to side tightening the turnbuckle the same number or turns or the same fraction of the turn on each side
Thanks for the good info!
Is this rule of thumb good for all cable sizes? I have approx 1/8" cables on my Catalina 22
rule of thumb: when beam reaching in around 6bft: mast should be straight, leeward shrouds should become wobbly.
Nice! Thanks!
Looong Live The KING!!!
Borrow a loos gauge and tune the rig according to your sail makers specs. You’ll extend the life of your sails and speed of your boat.
I’m trying to do the same with mine but is not working 🤦🏼♀️🥲
Well seemed the same to me ,the king moved slightly quicker methinks
Your shrouds should NEVER become wobbly. Metal fatigue is what destroys rigging, not over tension. Shaking a wire back and forth rapidly will ruin it. You posted a video about Second Chance which sounds like it got hit with a tornado in the lead bands of Irma. Sails blew out, rigging was fine. You can do the engineering calculations yourself but you'll find that most rigging is over- designed. Tighten it up. If it is ever wobbly, it's too loose.
Braavos It’s not possible for a human to tighten a rig to the point of over tightening. The force exerted by the wind on the sheets is thousands of times more than 10 humans are capable of exerting.
Coast Guard Master Near Coastal 50 Ton here - you can do it by feel. They need to be tight, but not overly tight. Like Ken says, error on the side of tightness.
@@aportilla007 I have a light Catalina 22. Would hand tightening be enough or should I go tighter?
@@jamlane I would do it myself. Till it's good and tight. Don't overtighten. Keep an eye on the way the mast bends.
You shouldn’t stick a screwdriver through the turnbuckle barrel to turn it.
Wrong, if your stays are loose on the lee side of mast while sailing in any direction than there is not enough tension.
thought I'd at least get a shoutout :-)
.
eh, in the end you were only off by 1/16"!
Nope... total stretch of 1/8” inch. Look right to me.
Hahahahahhahahahhaha
Like to see one of these sailing channels kick the aluminum over board, and use a log and hemp rope.
I would think 3-500.00 for a 100k investment is nothing for a precise tension on a rig! It is your life and investment!
Not a bad thought, though you will find most boats do not have a Loos gauge onboard. Honestly, this is something you might do every couple years, if/when you notice an issue. Most owners probably hire a rigger to tune and inspect their rig for around $800. This is simply a way to get close when in a pinch, or to save some $$$.
Well I've done it his way ( roughly ) .. and I bought tension gauges ., so either way works fine.. although I do agree with your comment.. All tho , you always do all of the rigging at once
Sailing Satori ..... true,, however I know you know this ,,,without me saying it ,,,rough weather,etc. can affect the rigging ,, so it's more of usage than time frame,,
The way that was shown here is the way that is recommended by Selden. This is a pretty precise way to do it - a lot better than going by feel.
Hmm, a repeat?
We had to do a re-upload, so yeah... sort of.
1st comment
Thanks Gary!