You may have a preference for one or the other, but don't lie to people (If both are sized/created equally, 7075 is stronger then 6061). You cant tell which is which by how smooth or angular the design is (Forged receivers still get milled afterward). If you take two identical receiver designs with identical alloys, one forged and one billet, then the forged one will without a doubt be stronger, but it also doesn't mean that every forged receiver is stronger. Companies that make billet receivers will usually make certain areas thicker for added strength the same way companies that make polymer lowers will reinforce certain parts of the receiver with metal. Every company has different goals, diff. tolerances and different quality control measures so to say one is better than the other because of materials alone may not always be true. You can make a polymer receiver that has so much steel reinforcing it, that it will outlast the forged aluminum one.
Something else to consider is that due to the added strength of 7075 over 6061, for the 6061 to be as strong as a 7075 lower, it would require more metal in some area thus making the end product slightly heavier. There are however some billet lowers that are made out of 7075 rather than 6061, but unless you prefer a billet lower over a forged lower for it's more ornate features, I don't see why I'd pay more for a billet lower even if it's made of 7075 given it's still not going to be as strong as the same metal that's been forged unless you add weight to it. Now I do get the curb appeal of billet lowers is unrivaled by forged lowers, but that's I prefer functionality and durability over curb appeal. In truth both should give their owners plenty of reliable use, but personally I prefer make my choice based on knowing that the choice I made gives my defensive weapon the best chance of surviving anything life might throw at it.
4th type is custom. I personally smelt my own metals and cast to shape. Can mix different metals together. Can buy these from people. The future of firearms is producing firearms is DIY manufacturing. Same goes with ammunition. Making own explosives for primary "Primers" and secondaries. Of course, one needs to be able to make casings and the bullets as well. Don't be sheeple 🐑
Glad to see that I'm not the only one that caught that both alloys are aluminum rather than steel. Beyond that, I don't think corrosion is a concern worth considering with an aluminum lower weather it's constructed out of 6061 or 7075. Furthermore I've never seen aluminum rust or exhibit any noticeable corrosion. I used to race bicycles and many of the parts to include very critical parts such as the dropouts on the forks were constructed out of aluminum alloys and during my years of racing and I never witnessed a single component fail due to corrosion even though the bikes were put through thousands of miles, day in and day out of rain, heat, cold, gravel, snow and vibrations that most of if not any our guns will never be put through. I only mention that to say that even under those conditions I've never seen a single aluminum alloy component exhibit any noticeable corrosion and I never witnessed a single aluminum alloy component fail due to corrosion. Now I do understand that a racing bicycle are not designed to withstand the high pressures that an AR upper was designed to withstand but a lower does not have to resist nearly the same level of pressure as an upper. When I raced most of the forks on pro level bikes were constructed out of aluminum and if the dropouts on a fork failed during a 65 mph. descent, well I don't think I have to get to descriptive here but that could be very tragic. Though I have seen some aluminum alloy dropouts fail, that was always a function of the weld between the fork and the dropout failing rather than the dropout itself so corrosion was never the reason for the failure.
I'm buying some polymer receivers. Aluminum is cool and all, and I might get 1 of those as well. However there's just so many upsides to using the polymer and very little down sides
Actually the poly lowers have a huge bad side. If you do not use anti-walk trigger pins the holes start to elongate. Which causes your AR to start burst firing and/or full auto. Also poly80 will deny that its a flaw and say you drilled to large of holes.
Well you say the 6061-T6 is the best and your favorite and that it is better than 7075 but pretty much everything you mention in the comparison denies your claims. It doesn't nullify your opinion and your preferences, but it does nullify your claim that it is better. Your only two claims to the superiority of 6061 is that it is more resistant to corrosion and that it machines easier, thus increasing the life of your tools. Let me easily invalidate those as good reasons of why 6061 is better than 7075. First the advantage of corrosion resistance... as a combat veteran, I can tell you strength and durability are more important than a slight advantage in corrosion resistance. Even when you drag your weapon through the mud and spend a month in a constantly humid, rainy environment, which I have done on multiple occasions, you are expected to conduct routine PMCS (that's military acronym for maintenance) on all your gear, especially mission critical gear... that most certainly includes your firearms. So if you REALLY want to give your firearms corrosion resistance, lubricate and maintain them properly and according to your specific climatic situation. Secondly, the fact that 6061 machines easier and increases your tool life does not give you an advantage in quality, durability or strength. What I'm saying is... would you rather buy a tool that a manufacturer made with softer, more easily machinable materials so that they would save themselves the expense of replacing their tools? Or would you put more value in the quality, strength and durability of your tool vs the manufacturer's desire to cut their expenses. I know in the instance of machining an 80% lower, you are both the manufacturer and the recipient of the tool, so if saving expense is more important, then you can get a polymer lower and machine it with files and a hot knife if you want, but all I'm saying is... your claim is not validated by the facts. That being said, I have nothing against 6061-T6 and I have one rifle with an upper and lower made out of it, I've never had a problem with it, but 7075 aluminum is quite better if you are looking to put together a military quality, rugged AR platform. 7075 is what military M16 lowers are made of... there's a reason for that.
You're talking about the forged vs billet lowers and referring to the 6061-T6 being more corrosion resistant than the 7075-T6 and calling the material steel when in fact it's aluminum. I've never seen an AR lower, or for that matter upper corrode to a point where it was apparent to the naked eye. Although I do understand that aluminum does corrode, the rate of corrosion is so minuscule that it's very unlikely that the owner of either type of aluminum lower will ever notice any corrosion, nor will that corrosion have any significant negative effect as it comes to the functionality with either alloy regardless as to weather they are billet or forged.
The reference to steel was a mistake of mine. I accidentally said that because of the steel barstock that was sitting on the table. As far as corrosion goes, after the trigger pocket is milled out the bare metal is exposed. All we are doing is sharing factual information to the customers so they have all the information that we can give them. Thats all.
@@rbtacticaltooling6578 No problem with that but I just don't see where corrosion on an aluminum lower is a critical issue, and I do understand mistakes as I make them often myself.
@@rbtacticaltooling6578 Just a side note. I sure wish you or someone else made end mills that are compatible with 80% Arms Easy Jig gen 3. The end mills mount to the outside of the chuck on the routers respectively avoiding the issue of the chucks coming loose. I use a Makita RT0701C router with my Easy jig, but unfortunately now spare parts for that router to include replacement end mills are only available at Modulus Arms and it took me over 2 months to get my order filled with them last time I dealt with them. Beyond that they hardly ever respond to customer issues. It took me no less than 6 emails as they don't have a phone line for customers in order to finally get them to ship items I ordered from them over two months prior. I just ordered another end mill for my router but I wander if It'll be as difficult to get them to ship the order that I have been charged for as it was last time. I know they don't have a good reputation as it comes to delivering orders or customer service. Anyway, I wander if 80% arms would be open to allowing other vendors to carry their end mills or allowing others to manufacture end mills that will work with their jigs. 5D Tactical is also currently using Modulus Arms to fulfill their orders due to the current unconstitutional ATF frames and receivers "ruling". I've had success with other types of jigs, but I find the Easy Jig to make the milling process much quicker, more precise and easier than with other jigs I've tried. All that to say that I'd be one of your first customers for an Easy Jig end mill if you were able to work out a deal with 80% Arms to offer their end mills as I'm tired of dealing with Modulus Arms. You could possibly use me as an example as to why they may find it beneficial to allow other vendors to offer their tooling. I'm not saying your tooling isn't the best when it comes to working with a drill press, but when milling with a router, which I prefer over milling with a drill press the only jigs that I've found that allow that are 5D Tactical, 80% Arms and the Juggernaut Tactical Ultimate Jig. The Ultimate Jig is available directly from Juggernaut Tactical and he delivers quickly, but the 80% Arms and 5D Tactical jigs are much superior, but there's a huge cost penalty which I'm willing to pay in exchange for the convenience and precision of milling. I only with I could find replacement parts and tooling for those jigs offered from vendors that believe in delivering orders and in customer satisfaction. Anyway, It's been a pleasure speaking with you and I'd love to hear if you'd like to pursue what I've proposed. I don't have any personal connection with 80% Arms, I'm just trowing out an idea which may be profit able for both you and them.
Modulus Arms IS 80% Arms, also 5D Tactical is 80% Arms as well. All operate from the same people. Our current Tool Kit is designed for the Juggernaut Tactical Jig. We carry the Juggernaut Tactical Jig. Whenever we run out of those, it only takes about 1 week to get back in stock. We have heard of so many people complaining about 80% Arms with the exact same issue as you are having. They will absolutely not allow any other company sell their products. They used to, but they stopped that during Covid. They didn’t have a need to sell their products wholesale to vendors when they can sell direct for full retail. We do have 5/16” End Mills, but it doesn’t come with their proprietary chuck. I’m not sure if the jig has to utilize the diameter of their specific chuck or not, but we do have them. We just don’t have them posted on our website. Call me 760-221-9354 -Bob
He said the forged we're stronger!..Obviously any halfwit would know he didn't mean steel'...Fuck! Bunch of chodes uo in these comments. Good video man..(cept forged is more corrosion resistant)
Nobody makes a good Tool Kit to be used with a drill press. That is very much not recommended as the drill press does not have the proper RPM to truly do a proper job with milling. The Tool Kits we have is specifically designed for handheld routers, which is the common use in the industry
LR-308 = DPMS style Lower receiver, AR-10 = Armalite style Lower receiver A DPMS upper will not mate correctly to a Armalite style Lower receiver and vs versa.
jrogers4588 On the 80% lower I received with my Ceratac kit, the hole for the grip was already pre-drilled and tapped. I would imagine it's a standard for any 80% lower.
you sent me a lower for free to make up for the mistake but i was hoping i got one with your logo on it. I get you probsbly sent me the cheapest option (not complaining) but you could of had free advertising i tell everyone
That jig is the old way of doing it. Polymer lowers are around $20-$25 ! Way cheaper than the aluminum. Polymer is plenty strong enough. Some even have Kevlar mixed in.
I'm a machinist for 30 yrs, your exactly right on. Great video, going to the store now.
How do they change the steel rod into aluminum? Radical my man!
I was wondering the same thing.
2A Maaaaagic
You may have a preference for one or the other, but don't lie to people (If both are sized/created equally, 7075 is stronger then 6061). You cant tell which is which by how smooth or angular the design is (Forged receivers still get milled afterward). If you take two identical receiver designs with identical alloys, one forged and one billet, then the forged one will without a doubt be stronger, but it also doesn't mean that every forged receiver is stronger. Companies that make billet receivers will usually make certain areas thicker for added strength the same way companies that make polymer lowers will reinforce certain parts of the receiver with metal. Every company has different goals, diff. tolerances and different quality control measures so to say one is better than the other because of materials alone may not always be true. You can make a polymer receiver that has so much steel reinforcing it, that it will outlast the forged aluminum one.
Something else to consider is that due to the added strength of 7075 over 6061, for the 6061 to be as strong as a 7075 lower, it would require more metal in some area thus making the end product slightly heavier. There are however some billet lowers that are made out of 7075 rather than 6061, but unless you prefer a billet lower over a forged lower for it's more ornate features, I don't see why I'd pay more for a billet lower even if it's made of 7075 given it's still not going to be as strong as the same metal that's been forged unless you add weight to it. Now I do get the curb appeal of billet lowers is unrivaled by forged lowers, but that's I prefer functionality and durability over curb appeal. In truth both should give their owners plenty of reliable use, but personally I prefer make my choice based on knowing that the choice I made gives my defensive weapon the best chance of surviving anything life might throw at it.
4th type is custom. I personally smelt my own metals and cast to shape. Can mix different metals together.
Can buy these from people. The future of firearms is producing firearms is DIY manufacturing.
Same goes with ammunition. Making own explosives for primary "Primers" and secondaries.
Of course, one needs to be able to make casings and the bullets as well.
Don't be sheeple 🐑
6061 has a UTS OF 42,000 ; 7075 UTS is 83,000. no way a billet 6061 is stronger than a forged 7075. And it's aluminum not steel.
He didn't say it was stronger he said that its corrosion free ...
@@stevencoyote746 he didn’t say it was corrosion free he said it was more resistant to corrosion
Glad to see that I'm not the only one that caught that both alloys are aluminum rather than steel. Beyond that, I don't think corrosion is a concern worth considering with an aluminum lower weather it's constructed out of 6061 or 7075. Furthermore I've never seen aluminum rust or exhibit any noticeable corrosion. I used to race bicycles and many of the parts to include very critical parts such as the dropouts on the forks were constructed out of aluminum alloys and during my years of racing and I never witnessed a single component fail due to corrosion even though the bikes were put through thousands of miles, day in and day out of rain, heat, cold, gravel, snow and vibrations that most of if not any our guns will never be put through. I only mention that to say that even under those conditions I've never seen a single aluminum alloy component exhibit any noticeable corrosion and I never witnessed a single aluminum alloy component fail due to corrosion.
Now I do understand that a racing bicycle are not designed to withstand the high pressures that an AR upper was designed to withstand but a lower does not have to resist nearly the same level of pressure as an upper. When I raced most of the forks on pro level bikes were constructed out of aluminum and if the dropouts on a fork failed during a 65 mph. descent, well I don't think I have to get to descriptive here but that could be very tragic. Though I have seen some aluminum alloy dropouts fail, that was always a function of the weld between the fork and the dropout failing rather than the dropout itself so corrosion was never the reason for the failure.
Lost me after about the third "STEEL" peace
Hi I'm looking to build a 80% DPMS 6.5 Creedmore Lower, do you have the lower and kit for that application in Billet?
I'm buying some polymer receivers. Aluminum is cool and all, and I might get 1 of those as well. However there's just so many upsides to using the polymer and very little down sides
Don't drop it.
Actually the poly lowers have a huge bad side. If you do not use anti-walk trigger pins the holes start to elongate. Which causes your AR to start burst firing and/or full auto. Also poly80 will deny that its a flaw and say you drilled to large of holes.
HOW TO PURCHASE THIS LOWER RICIEVER
The forged is aluminum not steel man
Well you say the 6061-T6 is the best and your favorite and that it is better than 7075 but pretty much everything you mention in the comparison denies your claims. It doesn't nullify your opinion and your preferences, but it does nullify your claim that it is better. Your only two claims to the superiority of 6061 is that it is more resistant to corrosion and that it machines easier, thus increasing the life of your tools. Let me easily invalidate those as good reasons of why 6061 is better than 7075. First the advantage of corrosion resistance... as a combat veteran, I can tell you strength and durability are more important than a slight advantage in corrosion resistance. Even when you drag your weapon through the mud and spend a month in a constantly humid, rainy environment, which I have done on multiple occasions, you are expected to conduct routine PMCS (that's military acronym for maintenance) on all your gear, especially mission critical gear... that most certainly includes your firearms. So if you REALLY want to give your firearms corrosion resistance, lubricate and maintain them properly and according to your specific climatic situation. Secondly, the fact that 6061 machines easier and increases your tool life does not give you an advantage in quality, durability or strength. What I'm saying is... would you rather buy a tool that a manufacturer made with softer, more easily machinable materials so that they would save themselves the expense of replacing their tools? Or would you put more value in the quality, strength and durability of your tool vs the manufacturer's desire to cut their expenses. I know in the instance of machining an 80% lower, you are both the manufacturer and the recipient of the tool, so if saving expense is more important, then you can get a polymer lower and machine it with files and a hot knife if you want, but all I'm saying is... your claim is not validated by the facts. That being said, I have nothing against 6061-T6 and I have one rifle with an upper and lower made out of it, I've never had a problem with it, but 7075 aluminum is quite better if you are looking to put together a military quality, rugged AR platform. 7075 is what military M16 lowers are made of... there's a reason for that.
You're talking about the forged vs billet lowers and referring to the 6061-T6 being more corrosion resistant than the 7075-T6 and calling the material steel when in fact it's aluminum. I've never seen an AR lower, or for that matter upper corrode to a point where it was apparent to the naked eye. Although I do understand that aluminum does corrode, the rate of corrosion is so minuscule that it's very unlikely that the owner of either type of aluminum lower will ever notice any corrosion, nor will that corrosion have any significant negative effect as it comes to the functionality with either alloy regardless as to weather they are billet or forged.
The reference to steel was a mistake of mine. I accidentally said that because of the steel barstock that was sitting on the table. As far as corrosion goes, after the trigger pocket is milled out the bare metal is exposed. All we are doing is sharing factual information to the customers so they have all the information that we can give them. Thats all.
@@rbtacticaltooling6578 No problem with that but I just don't see where corrosion on an aluminum lower is a critical issue, and I do understand mistakes as I make them often myself.
@@rbtacticaltooling6578 Just a side note. I sure wish you or someone else made end mills that are compatible with 80% Arms Easy Jig gen 3. The end mills mount to the outside of the chuck on the routers respectively avoiding the issue of the chucks coming loose. I use a Makita RT0701C router with my Easy jig, but unfortunately now spare parts for that router to include replacement end mills are only available at Modulus Arms and it took me over 2 months to get my order filled with them last time I dealt with them. Beyond that they hardly ever respond to customer issues. It took me no less than 6 emails as they don't have a phone line for customers in order to finally get them to ship items I ordered from them over two months prior. I just ordered another end mill for my router but I wander if It'll be as difficult to get them to ship the order that I have been charged for as it was last time. I know they don't have a good reputation as it comes to delivering orders or customer service. Anyway, I wander if 80% arms would be open to allowing other vendors to carry their end mills or allowing others to manufacture end mills that will work with their jigs. 5D Tactical is also currently using Modulus Arms to fulfill their orders due to the current unconstitutional ATF frames and receivers "ruling". I've had success with other types of jigs, but I find the Easy Jig to make the milling process much quicker, more precise and easier than with other jigs I've tried.
All that to say that I'd be one of your first customers for an Easy Jig end mill if you were able to work out a deal with 80% Arms to offer their end mills as I'm tired of dealing with Modulus Arms. You could possibly use me as an example as to why they may find it beneficial to allow other vendors to offer their tooling. I'm not saying your tooling isn't the best when it comes to working with a drill press, but when milling with a router, which I prefer over milling with a drill press the only jigs that I've found that allow that are 5D Tactical, 80% Arms and the Juggernaut Tactical Ultimate Jig. The Ultimate Jig is available directly from Juggernaut Tactical and he delivers quickly, but the 80% Arms and 5D Tactical jigs are much superior, but there's a huge cost penalty which I'm willing to pay in exchange for the convenience and precision of milling. I only with I could find replacement parts and tooling for those jigs offered from vendors that believe in delivering orders and in customer satisfaction.
Anyway, It's been a pleasure speaking with you and I'd love to hear if you'd like to pursue what I've proposed. I don't have any personal connection with 80% Arms, I'm just trowing out an idea which may be profit able for both you and them.
Modulus Arms IS 80% Arms, also 5D Tactical is 80% Arms as well. All operate from the same people. Our current Tool Kit is designed for the Juggernaut Tactical Jig. We carry the Juggernaut Tactical Jig. Whenever we run out of those, it only takes about 1 week to get back in stock. We have heard of so many people complaining about 80% Arms with the exact same issue as you are having. They will absolutely not allow any other company sell their products. They used to, but they stopped that during Covid. They didn’t have a need to sell their products wholesale to vendors when they can sell direct for full retail. We do have 5/16” End Mills, but it doesn’t come with their proprietary chuck. I’m not sure if the jig has to utilize the diameter of their specific chuck or not, but we do have them. We just don’t have them posted on our website. Call me 760-221-9354
-Bob
Can you buy that wide top plate from you guys to use with the kit ?
I can't seem to find a 7075 T6 billit or forged 80% 308 lower. Someone plz let me know if you know where to find one.
Anderson Manufacturing I saw some & Brownell
But it’s tight
He said the forged we're stronger!..Obviously any halfwit would know he didn't mean steel'...Fuck! Bunch of chodes uo in these comments. Good video man..(cept forged is more corrosion resistant)
Gonna build my first but Where’s a legitimate place or site to buy a 80% lower.
Forged for me and I might be buying one
Forged for me ang I might be buying one lower receiver. From the pilipines
Corrosion? Ive never seen any gun in my whole life corrode. Forged is stronger and lighter.
Is your end mill 3 or 4 flutes?
Thank you.
What bits do I need to mill it on a drill press
Nobody makes a good Tool Kit to be used with a drill press. That is very much not recommended as the drill press does not have the proper RPM to truly do a proper job with milling. The Tool Kits we have is specifically designed for handheld routers, which is the common use in the industry
@@rbtacticaltooling6578 but the guy on yt said it is he a gunsmith
OMG HI BOB BIGGEST FAN
Ty
What’s the difference between the LR-308 & AR-10?
LR-308 = DPMS style Lower receiver, AR-10 = Armalite style Lower receiver A DPMS upper will not mate correctly to a Armalite style Lower receiver and vs versa.
Billet or forged? Ive done polymer
How to properly drill mount holes for the grips is all i want to know
jrogers4588
On the 80% lower I received with my Ceratac kit, the hole for the grip was already pre-drilled and tapped. I would imagine it's a standard for any 80% lower.
That hole comes drilled and tapped out of the box
On the polymer lowers the hole is drilled out but don’t tap it the screw will make its own threads.
Do you guys offer your lowers without the etched logo?
Yes, just send us an email at info@rbtacticaltooling.com
Do you guys sale 80% lowers? Or where can I buy them from?
Do not purchase anything from these morons.
The difference in the metals here - www.royalarms.com/6061-vs-7075-billet-lowers/
Forged are strongest.
Quero compra um kit
How much for a complete set up?
Pete Davis As far as tools required to Mill your own lower, or make your own functional AR?
R&B Tactical Tooling to mill my own AR for home defense.
Lol it's not steal . It's aluminum ones just forged ones milled.
7075 IS BY FAR THE BEST
you sent me a lower for free to make up for the mistake but i was hoping i got one with your logo on it. I get you probsbly sent me the cheapest option (not complaining) but you could of had free advertising i tell everyone
Well, shit! Looks like we cant get these in NY....... Damn it...... Damn it all to hell. We cant buy the jig or the tool kit!? WTF.
That jig is the old way of doing it. Polymer lowers are around $20-$25 ! Way cheaper than the aluminum. Polymer is plenty strong enough. Some even have Kevlar mixed in.
🙂👍
Too many words
Will you be flying that thin blue flag when they come for your guns? Asking for a friend.
DO NOT PURCHASE!