See the brush hog in action here: ua-cam.com/video/2LtKLLMwSRE/v-deo.html And we review the Kubota L series here: ua-cam.com/video/mOUmn0b4GbQ/v-deo.html Products in our Amazon store used in this video (costs nothing extra to use these links!). You don't have to buy these specific items to support our channel....just use a link below to get to Amazon then make any purchase: 6’ Digging and Pry bar: amzn.to/3vH5Agx Oakley Polarized Square Wire Sunglasses: amzn.to/3HjzAU0 Nike Dri-Fit T-shirt: amzn.to/3aS403V Columbia Neck Gaiter: amzn.to/3aY33Hh Columbia PFG Fishing Shirt SPF 50: amzn.to/3n1fIMd Levi Cargo Pants: amzn.to/3xnJz6q Rode Wireless GO II microphones: amzn.to/3trABE3
Mate, my first tractor s coming this week, and this might not seem like useful information to a lot of people, but its invaluable for people like me who have no clue about this
@@Necron99. Congrats mate. Don't take any shortcuts like leaving it running while working back there, and Pat’s Quick Hitches are fantastic if you haven't heard of them
When possible, I try to set 3 point implements on a pallet with steel castors sitting on a concrete floor. Then the implement can be rolled around on the floor easily. Of course there are many times that’s not practical, but if it is, it sure makes things easy to connect or move out of the way. Your method with the pry bar looks very good especially when the implement is parked on the ground. Thanks for the suggestion!
Great info. Thanks. I just fought with my tiller today to get it on. I should have watched your video first! It would have saved me 30 minutes & a bunch of frustration.
Brad, I have a quick hitch and a pry bar. I can never get the implement to be perfectly aligned. I notice two cheats in your video....concrete floor and supported implements. This makes hooking up so much easier as you are not fighting some implement stuck in the mud or stuck in a pallet that has broken. Our new barn has a 60 x 12 porch for implements and we are building rolling dollys for each implement so we can easily move them around, store them, and hook them up.
The video was done on a dirt floor but yes, there are ways to make it even easier. The easiest way is a quick hitch with all quick hitch compatible implements and a level gravel or concrete area. Unfortunately I have mostly old implements, so I pry!
Great video. At last, someone who’s honest about the quick attach. I’ll take 5 mins to adjust by hand & save $200+. Especially since I only run a brush hog & a box blade. Using the digging bar for leverage is a great trick. Thanks for sharing it.
Read my post up above and I believe it will help you with hooking up. I always dreaded hooking up and not that I learned how to do it correctly I actually enjoy using 3pt implements.
Dang .... thank you sir!!! I just realized I have the top link pivot connection on backwards... for 10+ Years . No wonder I've had issues with back of my brush hog drooping. Lol 😅
I hook up one side first. Then I hook up the adjustable link. With one side set and the adjustable link installed, I "adjust" the adjustable link to move the equipment for alignment to the second pin. Easy peasie.
I have 2 methods for hooking up implements. One is the same method that you just demonstrated. The other is an option that not everyone will have. That is to go get one of the other loader tractors and lift the implements just slightly with the loader. Just enough to defeat gravity. Good demo Brad
@@PineyGroveHomesteadWonder how this method would work on a heavy implement like a gill flip over box blade? I can handle my disc, cultivater, bush hog and boom by hand but that box is heavy.
Well done, very good overview. It depends on many factors, as you point out. I acquired my rear snow blower before I got a quick hitch, so that one goes on as you demonstrated. In fact, despite promises from the respective manufacturers, I've casually tested it with the QH (no PTO connection) and it doesn't really fit! Since the blower stays on the rear all season once I switch over, that is a non-issue. It was critical to me that all the other implements I had and was planning to get in the near future could connect and do so relatively easily to make the whole thing worthwhile. Fortunately, they do. It's definitely worth it in my case, but only because it works. For many people, it just doesn't seem to work or work well enough. For those considering a QH, there is one very big benefit which your video made clear to those who use one successfully: that is, it saves all the small adjustments to the top and lower arms to both mount the implement and after it's mounted. Once the QH is fixed properly on the arms, it's done. It doesn't move. It doesn't need to be adjusted. Further, many of us make small dollies to unload the entire QH and the 3 arms from the tractor effortlessly. This is a further labour savings when you want to have nothing on the tractor rear, for example (when I mow using a belly mower, a good example in my case).
@@PineyGroveHomestead yep: much quieter than a second person too! Just the right amount of attitude. ... I ran out of daylight yesterday but have removed my harrows with your help and have the slasher ( that's what we call them in Australia) and linkage parts all greased and ready to go!
Watched video this morning Ordered me the pry bar from tractor supply. I had a free delivery. Just got it to my house in less than 2 hours. Total price with tax $38
I keep my tractor and implements in a crowded garage with concrete floor. Instead of a prybar I use furniture dollys under the implements. They roll around and I can move them up to the tractor to hitch up. Any "fine" persuasion can be applied by a boot.
Just pointing out: Practically all attachments can be made Quick Hitch compatible, most with little modification or effort. Some take a little pre-planning for best results. This mower is in fact quick hitch compatible. Lower Pins and Bushings have to be adjusted to the proper width an diameter for the lower hooks. Prepping the Quick Hitch: The Top Hook - should be installed with quick pins and can be removed/adjusted or stored in seconds. The Adapter(mentioned here) Can be permanently hung to the Top Link pin and flipped forward when the Hook is in use. When the Adapter is needed, remove the hook, flip the adapter to word the Implement, Adjust top link length if needed and insert the Top Pin. *Doing this DOES maintain Free Float so the mowers rear can bounce up if needed. *None of my Implement are Designed as Quick hitch compatible. the First Two took about 30 minutes to figure out and convert. #3 will be a repeat of#2 and take 10 minutes or so. #4, an extremely old back Blade will need the Upper Center support cut out, Drilled at the proper height to match my Upper hook height and have a 3/4" Bolt and Spacer set installed. Why? I'm 70yrs, 125lbs. and have been disabled since 2014. It's not always about what is easy or convenient, but what works for individual needs.
@@PineyGroveHomestead Yes they are! I have no choice but to be smart about making what I have work for me but I understand everyone has to make their own decisions for their best results.
Almost all of my 3 point implements are quick hitch compatible including the Land Pride Bush Hog. The only exception is the Italian made Enorossi sickle bar mower. It's a very annoying process to attach. For me, coupling to the tractor pto is the most difficult part mostly because of the factory guard on the shaft coupling. Great explanation of your process. Thanks.
I've been using a similar technique, but with a 36" prybar. Regarding the PTO, the key is, as you said, keeping it clean and lubricated. My tractor came with a rubber PTO stub cover which I install whenever I am not using the PTO. At my previous location, I had a hard floor, so most of my implements were on wheeled dollies that I could roll in behind the tractor. The exception was the brush hog, it used up too much of my paved space.
@@PineyGroveHomestead I had a tiller, a flail mower, a box blade and ballast box on their own dollies. I used the small HF dollies joined with 2x4s except for the ballast box which was on a solid platform dolly. . That was the absolute easiest 3 point hookup process. ever.
After backing up to your implement lower your hydraulics all the way down and that lets the arms move freely up and down to make it easier to align to pins. Hook up left side first because you have no adjustment and then hook up right side and if you need to move the arm up or down slightly you can use the adjustment link. I always hated hooking up because I didn't know to lower the arms and it would take me an hour to get implements on and now that I learned how to do it correctly it takes about 10 mins.
Word to the wise " P-r1's quick-hitch " is NOT TELESCOPIC. They are at best "floppy-sloppy" add-on with a drop in spring loaded "keeper" over a WIDE OPEN "U" clevise--- deleating secure side-sway engagement. The BEST device for safe,secure &FAST Engagements are "Telescopic Link Ends" & "Telescopic sway Bars". Or just use the SAFE "pry-bar technique " with the standard " swivel-ball" link end & Be SAFE & not lazy with some "after-market" "myrical-wonder" devise. ( just get OFF the tractor & do it right)! Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring.
Thanks! I'm hoping to buy my first tractor within two months. I expect I'll invest in the doodads at the end of the bottom links (and the tractors I'm looking at have telescoping link arms), but I'll give it a try as is first.
Just watched your video on the 3point hitch hook up. I have the same method. My prybar is a 2x4. I may spring for a digging bar. But I was mostly wondering why you have 3 brush hogs? Is it just because…, or is there an advantage there? Thanks for the videos!
One is my trusted beefed up one for rough cutting.....it's 15 y/o, bent and dinged and reinforced and a tank of a cutter! I bought another one to use in grass and light stuff with the Flex Hitch. And then a 3rd one came with a tractor I bought. Now that we have a finish mower, I need to sell two of the brush hogs, but it's hard to part with them!! More tractor vids here: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
Your using that Common Sense stuff! Where did you buy that! I've been looking everywhere and can't seem to locate any. Years ago, it used to be everywhere, not so much anymore? No video screen or ear buds, your on your own? Hey, I thought My 6ft. pry bars were for dirt and concrete only! The instructions on the side don't say a darn thing about tractor implements! Ha, LOl ! Thanks, best Tractor video I have seen to date, and trust me, I have watched too many.
@@PineyGroveHomestead No! I'm looking to buy 'Common Sense'! Do you know if it comes in a can or plastic wrapper? Lol. I'm throwing you off joking around but trying to make a comic relief way of saying your a rare breed using basic common sense of a 6' crow bar to hook up! So logical, so simple yet nobody thinks with that approach today! I give you one heck of a compliment to almost brilliant! I think all problems today are attacked with circuit boards, electronic actuators, radio frequency devices etc. No one thinks of quick and simple anymore, it gets the job done in a fraction of time and it is dependable! Thank You! I damn near bought a quick hitch and I'm positive with my old implements I would not be happy with it one bit! And quit taking life so serious, or you'll never get out of it alive! Ha, Lol
Forks, you mean the lift arms in the rear? Or forks on the front end loader? If your forks on the front are binding, you loader is probably tweaked (bent) a little....mine is.
Sorry, lift arms in rear. After I had finally pulled pins of adjustable arms and just driven off I realized I hadn't pulled pins in sway bars! $!#& Think that was my problem!!!!
@@judisinger3693 yes, you have to kick them out of the way. The pry bar works great for taking off equipment. Put the snap pins on the 3pt pins on the implement, then bury the point of the bar in the ground and pull it towards you pulling the sway bar sideways!
Mine are "attached" to lift arms and lock with pin. Also, arms are short to limited room between tractor and implement. My only complaint with my NH TC29DA. My Massey TO35 has way more room between. It has the separate sway bars which are a headache when moving tractor without implement unless removed. I've used bungees or "clips" to attach them to the lift arms. Any tips?
I would never use grease. Dust and small debris would stick to it and create a mess. I just buy cheap spray lube and keep a can on the tractor. Give the attatchment points a quick coat and it all slides right into place. I also separate the driveline when not using it to keep the two pieces from sticking together. Makes things much easier.
The bad thing about quick hitch is it changes the center of gravity. With pats I'd hook up my weight box with receiver on it I'd hook up the trailer and going up hill the front end would lift a little, without pats on I never had that problem so I never use pats anymore.
Last year I bought a new koyote Tractor 47 horse, new 6ft brush hog, upon delivery the guy adjusted the mowers stance. I didn't ever want to disconnect due to past life experience, with dad we always had help. ....but I needed to use the bucket, so off it came. Just now spent an hour struggling to get it on by myself, now the right side is too low. ....parking for another day. Grrr All I could think about was how the salesman talked me out of a quick hitch. ....maybe it wouldn't have helped?
If your implements are compatible, then a Quick Hitch is the way to go. None of my implements will fit one....they are old and all bent up! Even a Pat's Quick Hitch is better than the standard 3 pt hitch but you will need a longer top link. Thanks for watching.
They can go on either side. We've put at least 4 sets of pins on that brush hog over the years. On the outside it's almost impossible to get the sway bars to swing that wide.
@@PineyGroveHomestead its not a big deal we need tu attach and detach the implement so many times in the middle of the field so attaching and detaching the implement with the bar takes more time
See the brush hog in action here: ua-cam.com/video/2LtKLLMwSRE/v-deo.html And we review the Kubota L series here: ua-cam.com/video/mOUmn0b4GbQ/v-deo.html
Products in our Amazon store used in this video (costs nothing extra to use these links!). You don't have to buy these specific items to support our channel....just use a link below to get to Amazon then make any purchase:
6’ Digging and Pry bar: amzn.to/3vH5Agx
Oakley Polarized Square Wire Sunglasses: amzn.to/3HjzAU0
Nike Dri-Fit T-shirt: amzn.to/3aS403V
Columbia Neck Gaiter: amzn.to/3aY33Hh
Columbia PFG Fishing Shirt SPF 50: amzn.to/3n1fIMd
Levi Cargo Pants: amzn.to/3xnJz6q
Rode Wireless GO II microphones: amzn.to/3trABE3
your pry bar tip reduced my profanity by 50% ! Thank you!!!!!!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Mate, my first tractor s coming this week, and this might not seem like useful information to a lot of people, but its invaluable for people like me who have no clue about this
Congratulations on your tractor. You are going to love it!
Me too!
read my comment in thred
Im getting my first tractor next week :). Likewise these are awesome videos
@@Necron99. Congrats mate. Don't take any shortcuts like leaving it running while working back there, and Pat’s Quick Hitches are fantastic if you haven't heard of them
Exactly the same, I didn't want to ask my mates how to do it 😅
When possible, I try to set 3 point implements on a pallet with steel castors sitting on a concrete floor. Then the implement can be rolled around on the floor easily. Of course there are many times that’s not practical, but if it is, it sure makes things easy to connect or move out of the way.
Your method with the pry bar looks very good especially when the implement is parked on the ground. Thanks for the suggestion!
Dollies are the way to go on concrete floors, but that's valuable real estate! Thanks for watching.
Great info. Thanks. I just fought with my tiller today to get it on. I should have watched your video first! It would have saved me 30 minutes & a bunch of frustration.
This guy would make a great mentor... I like his personal style VICE used car salesman... L.O.L.
Thanks, I think! 🤣
Brad, I have a quick hitch and a pry bar. I can never get the implement to be perfectly aligned. I notice two cheats in your video....concrete floor and supported implements. This makes hooking up so much easier as you are not fighting some implement stuck in the mud or stuck in a pallet that has broken. Our new barn has a 60 x 12 porch for implements and we are building rolling dollys for each implement so we can easily move them around, store them, and hook them up.
The video was done on a dirt floor but yes, there are ways to make it even easier. The easiest way is a quick hitch with all quick hitch compatible implements and a level gravel or concrete area. Unfortunately I have mostly old implements, so I pry!
Great video. At last, someone who’s honest about the quick attach. I’ll take 5 mins to adjust by hand & save $200+. Especially since I only run a brush hog & a box blade. Using the digging bar for leverage is a great trick. Thanks for sharing it.
Unfortunately a quick attach doesn't work on our implements...I wish they did! Thanks for watching.
Brad at his best! Love Piney Grove and learning from him!
Thanks for watching. I use that bar almost daily on the farm!
I spent about 3 hours putting my tiller on yesterday. I absolutely hate hooking up implements. Lol
Need to keep the tiller on Gina's tractor all the time, Hank!
Read my post up above and I believe it will help you with hooking up. I always dreaded hooking up and not that I learned how to do it correctly I actually enjoy using 3pt implements.
I stick the front of the front bucket down then by rolling the bucket I can move the tractor forward or back as needed.
Great idea. Thanks for watching.
This is what I do too. Very simple and works well with no extra tools.
Dang .... thank you sir!!! I just realized I have the top link pivot connection on backwards... for 10+
Years . No wonder I've had issues with back of my brush hog drooping. Lol 😅
Many people take that whole pivoting piece right off! Thanks for watching.
I love this plan for making Life easier - prior to building the shed to store all implements.
Thanks for watching!
I hook up one side first. Then I hook up the adjustable link. With one side set and the adjustable link installed, I "adjust" the adjustable link to move the equipment for alignment to the second pin. Easy peasie.
Good process!
Good video. New to the tractor world and now I have to look at my top block.
Thanks for watching. We have lots of tractor videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
I have 2 methods for hooking up implements. One is the same method that you just demonstrated. The other is an option that not everyone will have. That is to go get one of the other loader tractors and lift the implements just slightly with the loader. Just enough to defeat gravity.
Good demo Brad
I'd like to offer a 3rd method: Buy a tractor for each implement!!! No more changing. Don't I wish? Take care Gary.
@@PineyGroveHomestead Hey Brad, when it comes to wishful thinking, go big or go home😂
@@PineyGroveHomesteadWonder how this method would work on a heavy implement like a gill flip over box blade? I can handle my disc, cultivater, bush hog and boom by hand but that box is heavy.
Well done, very good overview. It depends on many factors, as you point out. I acquired my rear snow blower before I got a quick hitch, so that one goes on as you demonstrated. In fact, despite promises from the respective manufacturers, I've casually tested it with the QH (no PTO connection) and it doesn't really fit! Since the blower stays on the rear all season once I switch over, that is a non-issue.
It was critical to me that all the other implements I had and was planning to get in the near future could connect and do so relatively easily to make the whole thing worthwhile. Fortunately, they do. It's definitely worth it in my case, but only because it works. For many people, it just doesn't seem to work or work well enough. For those considering a QH, there is one very big benefit which your video made clear to those who use one successfully: that is, it saves all the small adjustments to the top and lower arms to both mount the implement and after it's mounted. Once the QH is fixed properly on the arms, it's done. It doesn't move. It doesn't need to be adjusted. Further, many of us make small dollies to unload the entire QH and the 3 arms from the tractor effortlessly. This is a further labour savings when you want to have nothing on the tractor rear, for example (when I mow using a belly mower, a good example in my case).
One day maybe we'll have all quick hitch compatible implements, but until then, we have to resort to the pry bar!! Thanks for watching!
That was awesome thanks! I have been waiting for a second person to help me, but now I'm going out to give it a go myself!
Glad I could help! I use that bar EVERY time I hook up to my tractor....used it yesterday!
@@PineyGroveHomestead yep: much quieter than a second person too! Just the right amount of attitude. ... I ran out of daylight yesterday but have removed my harrows with your help and have the slasher ( that's what we call them in Australia) and linkage parts all greased and ready to go!
Watched video this morning Ordered me the pry bar from tractor supply. I had a free delivery. Just got it to my house in less than 2 hours. Total price with tax $38
That's so awesome! Glad it worked out for you!
I keep my tractor and implements in a crowded garage with concrete floor. Instead of a prybar I use furniture dollys under the implements. They roll around and I can move them up to the tractor to hitch up. Any "fine" persuasion can be applied by a boot.
Great idea if you have the concrete floor space!!
Thank you, I take delivery of a Kubota L2502 next week. I've got much to learn, and you just helped me.
Congratulations! More tractor videos here: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
Good idea! Looks like a great way to save the strain on the lower back too. Great video!
It really helps! Thanks for watching.
Just pointing out: Practically all attachments can be made Quick Hitch compatible, most with little modification or effort. Some take a little pre-planning for best results.
This mower is in fact quick hitch compatible.
Lower Pins and Bushings have to be adjusted to the proper width an diameter for the lower hooks.
Prepping the Quick Hitch:
The Top Hook - should be installed with quick pins and can be removed/adjusted or stored in seconds.
The Adapter(mentioned here) Can be permanently hung to the Top Link pin and flipped forward when the Hook is in use.
When the Adapter is needed, remove the hook, flip the adapter to word the Implement, Adjust top link length if needed and insert the Top Pin.
*Doing this DOES maintain Free Float so the mowers rear can bounce up if needed.
*None of my Implement are Designed as Quick hitch compatible. the First Two took about 30 minutes to figure out and convert. #3 will be a repeat of#2 and take 10 minutes or so.
#4, an extremely old back Blade will need the Upper Center support cut out, Drilled at the proper height to match my Upper hook height and have a 3/4" Bolt and Spacer set installed.
Why? I'm 70yrs, 125lbs. and have been disabled since 2014. It's not always about what is easy or convenient, but what works for individual needs.
We sold our QH, it was too much hassle. One day everything we have will be QH compatible...maybe....implements are expensive!
@@PineyGroveHomestead Yes they are! I have no choice but to be smart about making what I have work for me but I understand everyone has to make their own decisions for their best results.
Awesome tips! I’m gonna grab a 6’ pry bar. 👊
It will change your life...sorta. 🤣 Kubota 💪!
Almost all of my 3 point implements are quick hitch compatible including the Land Pride Bush Hog. The only exception is the Italian made Enorossi sickle bar mower. It's a very annoying process to attach. For me, coupling to the tractor pto is the most difficult part mostly because of the factory guard on the shaft coupling. Great explanation of your process. Thanks.
If the parts don't move freely (or if they are bent), it can be a fight! Thanks for watching.
I've been using a similar technique, but with a 36" prybar. Regarding the PTO, the key is, as you said, keeping it clean and lubricated. My tractor came with a rubber PTO stub cover which I install whenever I am not using the PTO. At my previous location, I had a hard floor, so most of my implements were on wheeled dollies that I could roll in behind the tractor. The exception was the brush hog, it used up too much of my paved space.
I bought dollies last year for the same purpose....just haven't gotten around to adapting them to my tiller! Thanks for watching.
@@PineyGroveHomestead I had a tiller, a flail mower, a box blade and ballast box on their own dollies. I used the small HF dollies joined with 2x4s except for the ballast box which was on a solid platform dolly. . That was the absolute easiest 3 point hookup process. ever.
The dolly idea intrigues me.
What Dolly did you purchase.
After backing up to your implement lower your hydraulics all the way down and that lets the arms move freely up and down to make it easier to align to pins. Hook up left side first because you have no adjustment and then hook up right side and if you need to move the arm up or down slightly you can use the adjustment link. I always hated hooking up because I didn't know to lower the arms and it would take me an hour to get implements on and now that I learned how to do it correctly it takes about 10 mins.
Even when it's quick, it's never fun!
@@PineyGroveHomestead 😆
Makes it much easier thanks
Yes it does, especially when your implements are bent up like ours! Thanks for watching
Word to the wise " P-r1's quick-hitch " is NOT TELESCOPIC. They are at best "floppy-sloppy" add-on with a drop in spring loaded "keeper" over a WIDE OPEN "U" clevise--- deleating secure side-sway engagement. The BEST device for safe,secure &FAST Engagements are "Telescopic Link Ends" & "Telescopic sway Bars". Or just use the SAFE "pry-bar technique " with the standard " swivel-ball" link end & Be SAFE & not lazy with some "after-market" "myrical-wonder" devise. ( just get OFF the tractor & do it right)! Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring.
I have the telescoping sway bars on order! Thanks for watching.
@@PineyGroveHomestead You are on the right track. Success in your endeavours.
Thanks! I'm hoping to buy my first tractor within two months. I expect I'll invest in the doodads at the end of the bottom links (and the tractors I'm looking at have telescoping link arms), but I'll give it a try as is first.
excellent tutorial! thank you for sharing your experience! Especially the pry bar tip.
If you don't have a quick hitch, then that pry bar is essential! Thanks for watching.
Great video, thank you! Love the digging bar tip.
We use it everytime. Thanks for watching!
Good video. My favorite part was when you kicked that orange tractor
Isn't that how you start your Deere, Brock? Kick it so the wires will make a connection? 🤣
@@PineyGroveHomestead 😂
Just watched your video on the 3point hitch hook up. I have the same method. My prybar is a 2x4. I may spring for a digging bar.
But I was mostly wondering why you have 3 brush hogs? Is it just because…, or is there an advantage there? Thanks for the videos!
One is my trusted beefed up one for rough cutting.....it's 15 y/o, bent and dinged and reinforced and a tank of a cutter! I bought another one to use in grass and light stuff with the Flex Hitch. And then a 3rd one came with a tractor I bought. Now that we have a finish mower, I need to sell two of the brush hogs, but it's hard to part with them!! More tractor vids here: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo3RVqEuA0f6IioXV6FtFhHW.html
Nice video.Great for a new tractor owner,like me.
Glad you stopped by. We try to show some things we've learned along the way. This video may interest you: ua-cam.com/video/mOUmn0b4GbQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for the pry bar advice.
Makes it a whole lot easier. Thanks for watching!
Gotta say I love my pats easy hitch. I just got tired of prying and shoving. Pats fixed all that.
That's a good solution....I guess I'm stubborn!
Could you do a video of your shop and carport. I noticed stairs going up the side of your shop. Just curious. Thanks.
This playlist has all our buildings in it: ua-cam.com/play/PLG5yS75HLzo2MCmO8M-IQXfvkv-ivvpAU.html
Your using that Common Sense stuff! Where did you buy that! I've been looking everywhere and can't seem to locate any. Years ago, it used to be everywhere, not so much anymore? No video screen or ear buds, your on your own?
Hey, I thought My 6ft. pry bars were for dirt and concrete only! The instructions on the side don't say a darn thing about tractor implements! Ha, LOl ! Thanks, best Tractor video I have seen to date, and trust me, I have watched too many.
What are you looking to buy? 6’ Digging and Pry bar: amzn.to/3vH5Agx
@@PineyGroveHomestead No! I'm looking to buy 'Common Sense'! Do you know if it comes in a can or plastic wrapper? Lol.
I'm throwing you off joking around but trying to make a comic relief way of saying your a rare breed using basic common sense of a 6' crow bar to hook up! So logical, so simple yet nobody thinks with that approach today! I give you one heck of a compliment to almost brilliant! I think all problems today are attacked with circuit boards, electronic actuators, radio frequency devices etc. No one thinks of quick and simple anymore, it gets the job done in a fraction of time and it is dependable! Thank You!
I damn near bought a quick hitch and I'm positive with my old implements I would not be happy with it one bit! And quit taking life so serious, or you'll never get out of it alive! Ha, Lol
@@snurb48 Wasn't tracking. We sold our QH...didn't fit any implement we had.
Great tips. Sometimes removing implements, forks get in bind and I can't get them off pins? What's the trick????
Forks, you mean the lift arms in the rear? Or forks on the front end loader? If your forks on the front are binding, you loader is probably tweaked (bent) a little....mine is.
Sorry, lift arms in rear. After I had finally pulled pins of adjustable arms and just driven off I realized I hadn't pulled pins in sway bars! $!#& Think that was my problem!!!!
@@judisinger3693 yes, you have to kick them out of the way. The pry bar works great for taking off equipment. Put the snap pins on the 3pt pins on the implement, then bury the point of the bar in the ground and pull it towards you pulling the sway bar sideways!
Mine are "attached" to lift arms and lock with pin. Also, arms are short to limited room between tractor and implement. My only complaint with my NH TC29DA. My Massey TO35 has way more room between. It has the separate sway bars which are a headache when moving tractor without implement unless removed. I've used bungees or "clips" to attach them to the lift arms. Any tips?
Great video, based on good common sense!!!
Thank You.
Thank you! We use that pry bay for lots of things around the farm...great tool.
Since I can't buy a fleet of tractors..... I'll buy that tanker bar for sure!
Agree!
I would never use grease. Dust and small debris would stick to it and create a mess. I just buy cheap spray lube and keep a can on the tractor. Give the attatchment points a quick coat and it all slides right into place. I also separate the driveline when not using it to keep the two pieces from sticking together. Makes things much easier.
We separate them too if left outside. Thanks for watching.
keep implements on pallet to which I've attached robust wheels and the whole thing resting on plywood so the wheels will work easily
good idea if you have the concrete floor space
@@PineyGroveHomestead The floor is dirt but the plywood work to allow things to rolll
2:25 in Michigan we call em fishing spuds, cuz you can’t fish in the winter wo one 😅
We don't have ice in Florida!!!
I solved the problem by having a tractor for each implement. But if my wife sees this I'm screwed. Lol
I like the way you think! Thanks for watching!
great tips !
Glad it was helpful!
Nice...!!! Thanks... Great Info...
Glad it was helpful. Saves a lot of aggravation!
The bad thing about quick hitch is it changes the center of gravity. With pats I'd hook up my weight box with receiver on it I'd hook up the trailer and going up hill the front end would lift a little, without pats on I never had that problem so I never use pats anymore.
That makes sense because it pushes the weight farther back than the sway bar ends. Thanks for watching.
Thanks!
Hopefully it helps.
Great video!👍🏻
Thanks for the kind comment and thanks for watching!
Last year I bought a new koyote Tractor 47 horse, new 6ft brush hog, upon delivery the guy adjusted the mowers stance.
I didn't ever want to disconnect due to past life experience, with dad we always had help. ....but I needed to use the bucket, so off it came.
Just now spent an hour struggling to get it on by myself, now the right side is too low. ....parking for another day. Grrr
All I could think about was how the salesman talked me out of a quick hitch.
....maybe it wouldn't have helped?
If your implements are compatible, then a
Quick Hitch is the way to go. None of my implements will fit one....they are old and all bent up! Even a Pat's Quick Hitch is better than the standard 3 pt hitch but you will need a longer top link. Thanks for watching.
Tried Pat's Quick Hitch and found that none of my PTO shafts were long enough anymore. PTO shafts are EXPENSIVE so took off Pat's Quick Hitch.
Seems like all the solutions out there come with their own set of problems. Thanks for watching.
Yep, it’s a back saver.
I guess I need a tractor. :)
At least one! And a mini!
I never liked the quick hitch for the back.
With the front bucket there ok.
The bar is cheating.
But it makes everything easier.
😂 Agree, but way less aggravating!
I've never needed an extra top link to hook up my bush hog to a quick hitch.
Extra link....not extra top link.
Looks like you need to reverse your pins. They should be pointing to the outside not inside.
They can go on either side. We've put at least 4 sets of pins on that brush hog over the years. On the outside it's almost impossible to get the sway bars to swing that wide.
I just use my arms and strength to move the implement that’s all 😃
You still use your arms with the bar....just makes it easier.
@@PineyGroveHomestead its not a big deal we need tu attach and detach the implement so many times in the middle of the field so attaching and detaching the implement with the bar takes more time
Pats quick hitch…try it, you’ll put your pry bar away
We sold our quick hitch. Pats is probably better system for us