Thanks! I just did this repair and found that a 7/8" hole saw with the pilot bit removed will fit perfectly to drill/grind the stakes out, making removal of the old caps super easy and clears the way for the new bearing caps.
Fordmakuloco or something like that is another amazing tech with ford trucks. And I really like south main auto. All these actually mechanics are awesome showing regular folk the short cuts so “glad I didn’t have to go through the headache” of which bolt to loosen and parts to remove/replace taking the guess work out.
I have a Subaru 2014 and a Hyundai Tucson 2009 with low KM (140,000 on both)and I am looking to replace the Subaru because a lots of their moving parts dies prematurely and this is the last repair I am doing, thanks to you. Too expensive to maintain and, I don’t want to face the shitty CVT transmission dying on me. It has been a pleasure to watch your videos and will still watch them because you are a good teacher and I like to learn mechanics.
Awesome work as always MrSubaru. 👏🏻 I never thought the press I bought 3 years ago would come in so handy for future jobs. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks bro. 05 Sti here and noticed this when I had the transfer case roller bearings replaced for the transmission whine. Saved the cost of a whole new driveshaft and only cost $150
Definitely the best car repair videos on youtube for sure. No irritating talking all the time, loved reading the instructions as its by far the best way to learn(feel like an Agrade mechanic now) but sometimes the wording wasn't up long enough to read it all (and that's annoying sorry...) excellent filming of the actual repair too, you could clearly see what was being done. Quite a complicated repair which definitely requires the right tools for the job and above average knowledge and experience. Cool stuff man :)
So much for losing money for a driveshaft. I had an 80s subaru, late 90s..same story. I used a bottle jack, the bottom of a mobile home beam. that was my press. As it turns out, I was getting sold the wrong U-joint.. back then. Today they are everywhere. they really wanted that driveshaft money...I ended up getting a used one, the fail was a bend to the real mechanical 4x4. It took its toll. Thanks for vid. I am doing this chore again, 16 years later.
@barry - Welcome to nightmare alley, barry! I had a Ford Escort 67 with a ad shaft as well, in out there in the boonies. Even AFTER its repair and replacement, the problem was finding a place to balance the crap!!.
MrSubaru, you are a good man teaching and showing us your talent, I have a Subaru Legacy GT 2000, Im not a mechanic but I do my fixings on my vehicle. And my driveshaft began with a noise under the car and what its was, was is the u joint. I got lost in your video from minute 6:16 -6:33 how you put it in. well not everything is served on a silver plate I has to use some of my part too. But I think a complete job will do better its just from the minute 6:16 TO (-) 6:33. Thumbs UP
Yup. Retired mechanic, 15 years in the trade as punishment for my sins. Never understood why Subaru had to be so precious and special to designate their propshafts as "unserviceable". When faced with a Cdn$1000 bill for shaft replacement on my 2001 Outback, I did just what Mr. S has done here. Bit fiddly get the shaft out, but yoke replacement just like any other car. Subarus are expensive enough to run without this aggravating problem.
UPDATE AUG 2023: The Neapco joints I installed about 3 years ago failed and I went to Rockauto to find replacements. I bought SKF UJ10430 joints that were listed as compatible for the application that the Neapco 1-0430 were also compatible for. My mistake was not taking the 2 minutes to pull out my calipers and compare the old joints to the new. The SKF are not compatible for the Subaru Staked in joints, at least not for my 2005 Saab 9-2x (WRX). Autozone carried a similar U-Joint under the number 2-0430DL. Those I measured with calipers to be compatible and did fit correctly. The SKF appeared to fit at first and pressed in okay but the length was a millimeter too long which prevented the c clips from spinning around correctly and allowed the joint to move slightly back and forth. Great Video! Thank you, finding out it could be done this way was a game changer. would've cost at least $450 but just buying the 2 new u joints was $70. I didnt have access to a press but instead I hammered one side, used a dremel to grind only the stakes (careful to avoid grinding any of the inner yolk material) then hammered it out the other way and ground the stakes again. only had to do this on one yoke because once the two halves were apart i just cut the ujoint in two places with a cheap angle grinder and hammered the caps out. cleaned the stakes and yokes with a file and dremel and hammered in the new ones making sure to match the yokes the way it came off for balancing. didnt have to rebalance or anything it bolted back in with no vibrations after that! saved hundreds thanks again!
@@jayprakashbulathgama3124 Found the part numbers here: forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2460040 And I bought these specifically www.ebay.com/itm/283114792135 Was a pretty involved job but for saving hundreds it was worth it. Good luck!
Wow... I am sorry if I sound like butter falling on the toast, but ALL the segments in your video are high quality and yet is a simple one. The light, the captions, how the 'instruction' is presented, everything; you LIKE this stuff, I can see! Unasuming. Thanks, man, I wish I lived close enough to take you my Forrester 2002 who suffers from the drive shaft curse. I bought it used, with a really bad shaft, and the mechanic installed a 'used' (might have been an "abused" one, for all I think!), and I KNOW it costs about 1000 Canadian, just the part!!! What a highway robbery!! Robin Hood'd be ashamed of these guys here! Thanks again, man. I'll start looking for a mechanical shop that can press the joints for me. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
+johnathan smith glad you enjoyed the video. Hate to hear about your bad experience. I know you can get a Dorman brand remanufactured prop-shaft for around $600usd on Amazon prime. Not sure of the exchange, but would've been a better choice to the used one it seems.
MrSubaru - Thanks for prompt answer. Pieces of that size makes you wonder if the shipping costs out value the part's price. I'm in Canada, and THAT, makes lots of difference, really. En donde tienes el taller?
just wanted to say THANK YOU couldn't have went any easier Rockford was great to deal with. i didn't have a press but I managed..Thanks again for sharing you knowledge with everyone
I just did this install and everything worked out fine. For those of you that have super tight installs, the key is @5:44 make sure that you file that surface down nice and flat or your install will not go as planned. Those slip rings need room and you will find yourself pounding it to tight to fit that slip ring.
2005 outback 3.0R LL Bean was going to do this, but the inside surface of the shaft coupler is not machined which would result in some play. Just replaced the whole driveline. 550.00 from dealership. They price matched an online price. Took two hours to replace. Nice video though. Well done.
Thanks! Very clear video The next thing you find out is that the center carrier bearing is failing after 10k miles and is not serviceable :( Just don't understand why they couldn't make everything properly serviceable...
Thanks Mr Subaru! Live in Canada Eh! 2001 Subaru Legacy GT 4 dr Coup AWD, did visual inspection after noticing increased vibration at 35 mph then at 45 mph. After 45 mph constant vibration. To visually inspect safely jack up rear end. Must be able to rotate tires to turn drive shaft, I was able to use my foot to do this. If U-joint is as bad as mine was you will be able to see the yoke coming out of a cap. Mine was on the front and I only did the front as time was not on my side...ugh. The U-Joint was purchased at UAP Napa under part #UJ10430 (Brand Name: SKF) under $40.00! The repair went well, other than removal of last two caps, seems mine was not as lubed as Mr Subs was. The grease or lack there of made the caps adhere to the yoke not allowing the pencil bearings to "fall over". So I cut out a segment of pipe to use as a spacer to wedge between cap and exposed yoke. This forced cap off during pressing. Also install grease nipple opposite of drive shaft balancing weight. 398,044 Km on original u-joint before failure. Try that on a Dodge LOL! Everything is working as it should..vibrations be gone.
Hi! I live in Canada too. I know my rear U-joint is going bad. First I looked for outback 2003 U-joint and nothing come up. Then I checked with the part number you posted and it says it's for a Nissan so I'm asking you if that part fitted is it the right part. I will thank you for your replay
Hey MrSubaru! Would this process/part number work on a 2002 Impreza WRX. If so, have you ever replaced carrier bearing as well? Thank you for the information you share to the rest of us DIY guys.
What would you do about fixing the rubber carrion boot on the propeller shaft at 1:21 in the video? I just hope mine is in decent condition since I had to replace the whole propeller shaft in my 03 Outback.
Did you get any luck with you Gen4 Outback driveshaft u joint? Nobody has U Joints for that here other than ebay.. were you successful at changing just the U joints on you gen 4 OB driveshaft?
Did you have to file the inside of the yokes flat for the snap rings to seat on? Did you measure the bores for the bearing caps? My caps are too tight to get in the bore. Did you balance the shaft after this was done?
Big fan of your and Subarus. Love watching your videos and gaining that confidence to do repairs on my own. I have a 2016 wrx Base (MT) and was wondering if you could tell me where I can find a u joint for my drive shaft? Starting to toss oil. Since subaru and every car part store out there will only sale the whole shaft as a single part it’s difficult to get my hands on a u joint. Any input will help. Thnx again for all you do and keep at it.
that looks identical to the driveshaft of my 04. what is the part number of the joint and is the 04 driveshaft servicable. i would just buy a junkyard driveshaft like my fatther in law did last year, but the piece of junk only made it 15k miles before giving up.
Hey great channel brother, you do a fantastic job illustrating things. Glad I found you! In this video are you rebuilding an STi propeller shaft, or does it matter? I have a few used shafts from nearly 14 years of swapping Subies, and I would love to re-joint an STi shaft. Just wondering if the part numbers you used here are for all Suby shafts are are the STi joints a different part number?
Thanks for such a great video and all your help on Subaru’s. I have just acquired a 2010 Forester with the vibration on acceleration issues. I can watch and feel the steering wheel vibrate when I hit 35-40mph. Put the car up on the rack last night and i can’t tell if the ujoints are bad or not with the driveshaft still on the car. The carrier bearing does have some give you it but the rubber is in good condition. I’m not sure how much movement those are supposed to have. Front axles both look new. Driver side front wheel bearing is a little wobbly but not horrible. I don’t have a press so would be swapping driveshafts more than likely. My question is do you think I should I go ahead and start by putting in a new driveshaft? I’m guessing as soon as the old one is out I’d know if the ujoints are bad?
Hello, I have a 2004 Subaru outback limited awd 2.5 and are trying to figure what u joint it is. In another similar video of a 2002 sub. the person says he replaced it with a spicer u joint # 5-3202X.
I had to drop my exhaust to access the driveline. Didn't break any bolts, but they were all very tough to get off (for both the exhaust and drive line) should I be using antiseize or new bolts? I ordered two u-joints on driveline America (they were super helpful about $50 shipped) and am gonna take it to a driveline shop. I've seen chrisfix and other youtubers hammer these out or use a ball joint press. The shop quoted me $300 cause they're nervous. Doing this on my 06 forester, I think the 12 legacy has the same issue. Thanks Mr. Subaru!
@@MrSubaru1387 $300 is what they (driveline shop) quoted me over the phone cause they saw its "unservicable" they almost turned me away, but I explained I already had the specific parts and that I knew they were staked. I'm hoping to show up on Monday with your video queued, pressing out the old joints. Best case scenario is that they see how simple it is and charge much less.... You think I can follow chrisfix's ball joint press kit idea instead?
@@MrSubaru1387 all local driveline shops rejected me (MA), all offered to order ne a new one. Took it to a general auto repair/parts rebuild shop. Fingers crossed, waiting for a call back. My last result was to use a hammer. In hindsight I'd rather order a reman from rock auto
@@MrSubaru1387 I hope this thread helps some other hard head out there. Mr. Subaru, if the shop takes more than a day to press out the joint (hopefully not), I would need to move my forester out of my work place's garage by the end of the day. Would it damage my transmission or rear diff if I roll it out if the garage? I marked up the rear flange to realign the drive shaft.
I build Subaru driveshafts everyday. From my experience, the inside snap ring style u-joints usually don't last long because they are loose sometimes. Have u had any similar problems?
Mr. Subaru, do you know the U-Joint part number for a 10/04 Outback? (No used shafts available for my Subaru. But I've got a press! Changed LOTS of joints!)
Erm... I don't mean to sound dumb but I have heard that I can lubricate the joint with PB blaster and it may fix the intermittent stiffness of that joint. Have you ever heard anything like that?
I wonder if this is what’s making that “clack, clack” sound right after I drive from a stop on my ‘01 Forester.. actually I think the sound is also present when the car’s about to come to a stop..
I have an 2005 Baja non-turbo automatic transmission . I replaced the Ujoints and still have vibrations. It happens from 30mph till about 60mph. Above that it’s not as much. Any ideas?
I’ve been chasing a problem for a while trying to figure out why my 04 outback lurches all the time. Being on and off the gas pedal when cruising it bucks back and forth a lot, and under hard acceleration it’ll buck a lot when the clutch is fully engaged and even throttle is applied. I’ve replaced pretty much everything else along the line as far as bushings go, even checked backlash on the rear diff. Would a bad u joint cause these problems? I don’t hear much noise but sometimes will hear a squeaking sound coming from the center of the car. It makes it difficult to drive tbe car smoothly no matter what you do, even when being very careful and slow with changing gears. Car has pretty much new everything down the line.
You ever think about getting junk yard parts example drive shafts front and rear spindles starting an exchange program where were you can rebuild components that might be a little hard for the average person. they would send you the core back. rebuild differentials and stuff like that I'm just saying
Will this part work for a 2001 Subaru Forester you think? More importantly, I can buy a 20 ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight and get the part for a hundred bucks less than buying the entire shaft. Do you think the Harbor Freight 20-ton is strong enough or will I need to buy a several hundred dollar one to do this? Thanks
Does anyone know the easiest way to get to the steering shaft to replace it on a 2005 wrx? Can you get it from the top, or do you have to drop the engine cradle?
Mr Subaru i bought a set of slotted drilled rotors for my 96 Outback Legacy company called R1 Concepts online very happy with their service highly recommend them brake specialist company
Can you help me with the part number of the u joint for Subaru forester 2011 2.0XS NA? The part number is not available onine and only shows the whole drive shaft assembly... I only need the joint
Do you know if that Neapco part number (1-0430) will work for an ‘11 outback? (2.5L, CVT) My son’s first car and he’s still not able to drive it yet... and nobody has the aftermarket shaft in stock 🙄 Btw, awesome video... I laughed when they told me at the Subaru parts counter that it wasn’t a user serviceable part... if somebody and rebuild them, so can we!
So once I got it out and could measure it up, I can confirm that a Rockford Driveline 430-10 u joint works in a 2011 Outback 👍🏻 (For the guy that sees this video a year from now and has the same question as me, lol)
Great video! I did everything recommended on my '03 Outback H6 but am having a terrible time with driveshaft vibrations now. I even had it balanced professionally and that didn't fix it. I'm thinking since my driveshaft has a CV joint it could be that? Any other ideas welcome!
Yep, still vibrating. It was actually very minimal vibrations before I replaced the joints but they were notchy when I removed the driveshaft so decided to go ahead and replace both.
I did my own balance for about 2 weeks to get me by with hose clamps because the driveshaft shop was closed. It worked ok but I hope I didn't mess it up by doing that.
MrSubaru1387 yes, still vibrating after a fresh balance. Going back tomorrow to the shop to take them for a drive. It's a different type of vibe than before. Noticable at 35mph and is more like an intermittent rumble. Might be a second order driveshaft vibration. Hope I can figure it out...
awesome video. Just wondering, I have a 99 Liberty (Australian Legacy) Would the same U-Joints be good for my drive shaft (Ones in Australia range from $35 AUD to $125 AUD)? When looking at part's it usually says something like " rear drive shaft to rear diff" or "front & rear staked joint" so just confused and wouldn't want to bugger up the job due to said confusion.
How do you know how far to press each cap in when installing the new u joint? Do they hit a stop. Just wondering how you can guarantee that the joint is centered properly
I have replaced front bearing, rebuild the driveshaft and I still have a loud noise at high speed coming from the front. I feel the vibration at my feet???????
Great video, our 04 out back l.l. bean did something weird. While driving one day the floor shifter suddenly started to BREAK APART while driving! I've heard the source of the issue may have come from bad u joints. Any thoughts or advice?
+Christina Washington if a U-joint breaks, the car wouldn't move. The propeller shaft (driveshaft) would shear away from the yoke at the transmission, or at the rear differential, depending on which U-joint broke.
@@MrSubaru1387 never mentionned a hub or bearing. I meant you can take out a u-joint from a drive shaft with a hammer and a punch you just have to be wise. I do it all the time.
Subaru doesn't sell the part, and everywhere I look either sells the the whole shaft or tells me they don't have a matching part. Where can I get the replacement joint and how do I know it will fit? Im driving a 2010 forester MT if anyone has a specific recommendation.
Thanks! I just did this repair and found that a 7/8" hole saw with the pilot bit removed will fit perfectly to drill/grind the stakes out, making removal of the old caps super easy and clears the way for the new bearing caps.
... and destroys any tolerance originally machined into the spider. A hole saw?!! 😂
Always replace the driveline on a Subaru.
Seriously the best repair videos on youtube and I dont even drive a Subaru
+Mikotiini thank you. I'm glad you enjoy them.
They made me buy a 2004 forester !😂
Fordmakuloco or something like that is another amazing tech with ford trucks. And I really like south main auto. All these actually mechanics are awesome showing regular folk the short cuts so “glad I didn’t have to go through the headache” of which bolt to loosen and parts to remove/replace taking the guess work out.
I have a Subaru 2014 and a Hyundai Tucson 2009 with low KM (140,000 on both)and I am looking to replace the Subaru because a lots of their moving parts dies prematurely and this is the last repair I am doing, thanks to you. Too expensive to maintain and, I don’t want to face the shitty CVT transmission dying on me. It has been a pleasure to watch your videos and will still watch them because you are a good teacher and I like to learn mechanics.
Awesome work as always MrSubaru. 👏🏻 I never thought the press I bought 3 years ago would come in so handy for future jobs. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks bro. 05 Sti here and noticed this when I had the transfer case roller bearings replaced for the transmission whine. Saved the cost of a whole new driveshaft and only cost $150
Definitely the best car repair videos on youtube for sure. No irritating talking all the time, loved reading the instructions as its by far the best way to learn(feel like an Agrade mechanic now) but sometimes the wording wasn't up long enough to read it all (and that's annoying sorry...) excellent filming of the actual repair too, you could clearly see what was being done. Quite a complicated repair which definitely requires the right tools for the job and above average knowledge and experience. Cool stuff man :)
#1 resource for Suburu technical support. Beats Scotty, Chris ,and ETCG.
Thanks MrSubaru
So much for losing money for a driveshaft. I had an 80s subaru, late 90s..same story. I used a bottle jack, the bottom of a mobile home beam. that was my press. As it turns out, I was getting sold the wrong U-joint.. back then. Today they are everywhere. they really wanted that driveshaft money...I ended up getting a used one, the fail was a bend to the real mechanical 4x4. It took its toll. Thanks for vid. I am doing this chore again, 16 years later.
@barry - Welcome to nightmare alley, barry! I had a Ford Escort 67 with a ad shaft as well, in out there in the boonies. Even AFTER its repair and replacement, the problem was finding a place to balance the crap!!.
MrSubaru, you are a good man teaching and showing us your talent, I have a Subaru Legacy GT 2000, Im not a mechanic but I do my fixings on my vehicle. And my driveshaft began with a noise under the car and what its was, was is the u joint.
I got lost in your video from minute 6:16 -6:33 how you put it in. well not everything is served on a silver plate I has to use some of my part too.
But I think a complete job will do better its just from the minute 6:16 TO (-) 6:33. Thumbs UP
Yup. Retired mechanic, 15 years in the trade as punishment for my sins. Never understood why Subaru had to be so precious and special to designate their propshafts as "unserviceable". When faced with a Cdn$1000 bill for shaft replacement on my 2001 Outback, I did just what Mr. S has done here. Bit fiddly get the shaft out, but yoke replacement just like any other car. Subarus are expensive enough to run without this aggravating problem.
UPDATE AUG 2023: The Neapco joints I installed about 3 years ago failed and I went to Rockauto to find replacements. I bought SKF UJ10430 joints that were listed as compatible for the application that the Neapco 1-0430 were also compatible for. My mistake was not taking the 2 minutes to pull out my calipers and compare the old joints to the new. The SKF are not compatible for the Subaru Staked in joints, at least not for my 2005 Saab 9-2x (WRX). Autozone carried a similar U-Joint under the number 2-0430DL. Those I measured with calipers to be compatible and did fit correctly. The SKF appeared to fit at first and pressed in okay but the length was a millimeter too long which prevented the c clips from spinning around correctly and allowed the joint to move slightly back and forth.
Great Video! Thank you, finding out it could be done this way was a game changer. would've cost at least $450 but just buying the 2 new u joints was $70. I didnt have access to a press but instead I hammered one side, used a dremel to grind only the stakes (careful to avoid grinding any of the inner yolk material) then hammered it out the other way and ground the stakes again. only had to do this on one yoke because once the two halves were apart i just cut the ujoint in two places with a cheap angle grinder and hammered the caps out. cleaned the stakes and yokes with a file and dremel and hammered in the new ones making sure to match the yokes the way it came off for balancing. didnt have to rebalance or anything it bolted back in with no vibrations after that! saved hundreds thanks again!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Where did u find the part number that fits
@@jayprakashbulathgama3124
Found the part numbers here: forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2460040
And I bought these specifically www.ebay.com/itm/283114792135
Was a pretty involved job but for saving hundreds it was worth it. Good luck!
@@georgebennett4523 fort Wayne clutch and drive line has the center carrier bearing p/n 9980-44
See my updated comment for alternative part numbers
Wow... I am sorry if I sound like butter falling on the toast, but ALL the segments in your video are high quality and yet is a simple one. The light, the captions, how the 'instruction' is presented, everything; you LIKE this stuff, I can see! Unasuming. Thanks, man, I wish I lived close enough to take you my Forrester 2002 who suffers from the drive shaft curse. I bought it used, with a really bad shaft, and the mechanic installed a 'used' (might have been an "abused" one, for all I think!), and I KNOW it costs about 1000 Canadian, just the part!!! What a highway robbery!! Robin Hood'd be ashamed of these guys here! Thanks again, man. I'll start looking for a mechanical shop that can press the joints for me. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
+johnathan smith glad you enjoyed the video. Hate to hear about your bad experience. I know you can get a Dorman brand remanufactured prop-shaft for around $600usd on Amazon prime. Not sure of the exchange, but would've been a better choice to the used one it seems.
MrSubaru - Thanks for prompt answer. Pieces of that size makes you wonder if the shipping costs out value the part's price. I'm in Canada, and THAT, makes lots of difference, really. En donde tienes el taller?
+johnathan smith Básicamente trabajo en mi camino de entrada la mayor parte del tiempo. Vivo en South Carolina.
Your videos were so helpful, I replaced bearings and hubs assemblies this weekend and looking forward to U joints
So much cheaper than a new drive shaft. Thank you so much!
+peter ruppert glad to help. 👍
I didn't even know you could replace these on the Subaru's. Definitely need to give it a try and buy myself a press.
just wanted to say THANK YOU couldn't have went any easier Rockford was great to deal with. i didn't have a press but I managed..Thanks again for sharing you knowledge with everyone
+John DiBiase glad to help 👍
How did you do it without a press?
How did you manage to do it without a press?
Thx for posting, that was good to know that you can buy aftermarket u-joints for older subarus. I'll keep this in my catalog to refer to later thx.
+Longtrailside glad to help.
You are a true master, thank you so much for this video, I now know what to do with my driveshaft in the garage.
I just did this install and everything worked out fine. For those of you that have super tight installs, the key is @5:44 make sure that you file that surface down nice and flat or your install will not go as planned. Those slip rings need room and you will find yourself pounding it to tight to fit that slip ring.
2005 outback 3.0R LL Bean was going to do this, but the inside surface of the shaft coupler is not machined which would result in some play. Just replaced the whole driveline. 550.00 from dealership. They price matched an online price. Took two hours to replace. Nice video though. Well done.
@@lifeisgood070 get a vice and rent a press kit from advance auto
Hitting the caps with the peen end of the hammer hurt me physically. 😂
Great, just did it and it works fine. You're the man!!!
Awesome Video! Many Thanks! 2004 FXT will be need this very soon. Awesome job!
Really clear and straight to the point
Good job
Keep on doing it
Thanks for sharing
+KHALIL ARJA you're welcome. Glad to help!
Thanks! Very clear video
The next thing you find out is that the center carrier bearing is failing after 10k miles and is not serviceable :( Just don't understand why they couldn't make everything properly serviceable...
Thanks Mr Subaru! Live in Canada Eh! 2001 Subaru Legacy GT 4 dr Coup AWD, did visual inspection after noticing increased vibration at 35 mph then at 45 mph. After 45 mph constant vibration. To visually inspect safely jack up rear end. Must be able to rotate tires to turn drive shaft, I was able to use my foot to do this. If U-joint is as bad as mine was you will be able to see the yoke coming out of a cap. Mine was on the front and I only did the front as time was not on my side...ugh. The U-Joint was purchased at UAP Napa under part #UJ10430 (Brand Name: SKF) under $40.00!
The repair went well, other than removal of last two caps, seems mine was not as lubed as Mr Subs was. The grease or lack there of made the caps adhere to the yoke not allowing the pencil bearings to "fall over". So I cut out a segment of pipe to use as a spacer to wedge between cap and exposed yoke. This forced cap off during pressing. Also install grease nipple opposite of drive shaft balancing weight. 398,044 Km on original u-joint before failure. Try that on a Dodge LOL! Everything is working as it should..vibrations be gone.
Hi! I live in Canada too. I know my rear U-joint is going bad. First I looked for outback 2003 U-joint and nothing come up. Then I checked with the part number you posted and it says it's for a Nissan so I'm asking you if that part fitted is it the right part. I will thank you for your replay
@@vicant2961 Yes, sorry for the late reply. That is the part number.
Did you replace centre bearing? if so where did you get part and how do you separate from shaft,thanks
Great content. Keep it up!
+MisterBassBoost thank you!
@@MrSubaru1387 hello sir
@3:16 If I wanted to brace the yoke, what would maybe fit in there? I am worried of bending the yoke. (this happened to me before on another car)
I didn't know these could be replaced last time I just swapped the whole drive line 😂
What's the symptoms that you would get? Vibrations at all speeds? Clunking?
If you do not have easy free movement be sure to tap the yolk a few taps on each end holding the u joint and it will smooth right out
Awesome video!! Thanks for sharing that!
Thanks man! (Again) You are the best! 🤘 🤘 🤘 🤘
Very nice video, can this work for 2009 outback? I've tried to get U joints nobody sales them. Where can I find the U joints only?
Do you have a video of the center support bearing replacement? Great video on the u-joint replacement
Hey MrSubaru! Would this process/part number work on a 2002 Impreza WRX. If so, have you ever replaced carrier bearing as well? Thank you for the information you share to the rest of us DIY guys.
Did you ever have any luck with the carrier bearing?? I’m in the same situation
What would you do about fixing the rubber carrion boot on the propeller shaft at 1:21 in the video? I just hope mine is in decent condition since I had to replace the whole propeller shaft in my 03 Outback.
GREAT video! Any chance this applies to the Gen 4 10-14 Outbacks?
Did you get any luck with you Gen4 Outback driveshaft u joint? Nobody has U Joints for that here other than ebay.. were you successful at changing just the U joints on you gen 4 OB driveshaft?
Any luck with this guys? Looking for a part number or anything so I can change my u joints on my gen 4 outback.
I have a 2012 Outback. I am trying to find the part number for the replacement drive shaft universal joints.
Great video Can I do this on a 2011 outback as well?
Did you have to file the inside of the yokes flat for the snap rings to seat on? Did you measure the bores for the bearing caps? My caps are too tight to get in the bore. Did you balance the shaft after this was done?
Very helpful video. Thanks and thumb up!
You're welcome!
Great Stuff Thanks 👍👍
Thank you! This video is super helpful! Do they sell u joints for 93-01 imprezas only saw 03-09.
Thanks!
Big fan of your and Subarus. Love watching your videos and gaining that confidence to do repairs on my own.
I have a 2016 wrx Base (MT) and was wondering if you could tell me where I can find a u joint for my drive shaft? Starting to toss oil. Since subaru and every car part store out there will only sale the whole shaft as a single part it’s difficult to get my hands on a u joint. Any input will help. Thnx again for all you do and keep at it.
Enjoy your videos as I’m rejuvenating a 2003 wrx. Would the u-joint in this video fit my 2003 wrx? (Neapco 1-0430) thanks!
that looks identical to the driveshaft of my 04. what is the part number of the joint and is the 04 driveshaft servicable. i would just buy a junkyard driveshaft like my fatther in law did last year, but the piece of junk only made it 15k miles before giving up.
No GMB Japan made part number? I have a failed u joint in the center of my drive shaft. are both ujoints the same?
I have a 2017 Forester with cvt. Will it be the same u-joint?
Hey great channel brother, you do a fantastic job illustrating things. Glad I found you!
In this video are you rebuilding an STi propeller shaft, or does it matter? I have a few used shafts from nearly 14 years of swapping Subies, and I would love to re-joint an STi shaft. Just wondering if the part numbers you used here are for all Suby shafts are are the STi joints a different part number?
This was a 98 Outback propshaft. As far as I know, all Subarus use the same u-joint.
@@MrSubaru1387 Copy that, thanks man! Keep up the good work. I will report back once I get an STi shaft re-jointed and confirm or deny.
How big of a press would I need? Considering buying one to do this myself.
+Dylan Norgard I believe mine is a 12 ton.
Thanks for such a great video and all your help on Subaru’s. I have just acquired a 2010 Forester with the vibration on acceleration issues. I can watch and feel the steering wheel vibrate when I hit 35-40mph. Put the car up on the rack last night and i can’t tell if the ujoints are bad or not with the driveshaft still on the car. The carrier bearing does have some give you it but the rubber is in good condition. I’m not sure how much movement those are supposed to have. Front axles both look new. Driver side front wheel bearing is a little wobbly but not horrible. I don’t have a press so would be swapping driveshafts more than likely. My question is do you think I should I go ahead and start by putting in a new driveshaft? I’m guessing as soon as the old one is out I’d know if the ujoints are bad?
@troylehman5471 Did the ujoints end up solving that vibration?
Hello, I have a 2004 Subaru outback limited awd 2.5 and are trying to figure what u joint it is. In another similar video of a 2002 sub. the person says he replaced it with a spicer u joint # 5-3202X.
can’t find the u joint for 2006 you know where can i get it or any other model fit. dealer sale the how shalft
I noticed you didn't change the center bearing on the drive shaft. Is this because it can't be done? Maybe just not needed
I had to drop my exhaust to access the driveline. Didn't break any bolts, but they were all very tough to get off (for both the exhaust and drive line) should I be using antiseize or new bolts?
I ordered two u-joints on driveline America (they were super helpful about $50 shipped) and am gonna take it to a driveline shop. I've seen chrisfix and other youtubers hammer these out or use a ball joint press. The shop quoted me $300 cause they're nervous. Doing this on my 06 forester, I think the 12 legacy has the same issue.
Thanks Mr. Subaru!
Ouch! $400+ parts/labor? A whole brand new propshaft from Subaru is $620 or so. Probably would spring for new hardware if they're severally rusted.
@@MrSubaru1387 $300 is what they (driveline shop) quoted me over the phone cause they saw its "unservicable" they almost turned me away, but I explained I already had the specific parts and that I knew they were staked. I'm hoping to show up on Monday with your video queued, pressing out the old joints. Best case scenario is that they see how simple it is and charge much less.... You think I can follow chrisfix's ball joint press kit idea instead?
I don't think a ball joint press has the force to push out the staked in joints.
@@MrSubaru1387 all local driveline shops rejected me (MA), all offered to order ne a new one. Took it to a general auto repair/parts rebuild shop. Fingers crossed, waiting for a call back. My last result was to use a hammer. In hindsight I'd rather order a reman from rock auto
@@MrSubaru1387 I hope this thread helps some other hard head out there. Mr. Subaru, if the shop takes more than a day to press out the joint (hopefully not), I would need to move my forester out of my work place's garage by the end of the day. Would it damage my transmission or rear diff if I roll it out if the garage? I marked up the rear flange to realign the drive shaft.
Hey, is this the same process for a 2007 Subaru Forester?
I build Subaru driveshafts everyday. From my experience, the inside snap ring style u-joints usually don't last long because they are loose sometimes. Have u had any similar problems?
What u joints do you use?
You put the zerk on the perpendicular (to the shaft) sides (which makes sense cause it's easy to get to), but won't the zerk throw off balance again?
Would these u-joint replacements be compatible with a 2002 Subaru Legacy GT? I'm looking into doing mine here soon while I have the drive shaft out.
Mr. Subaru, do you know the U-Joint part number for a 10/04 Outback?
(No used shafts available for my Subaru. But I've got a press! Changed LOTS of joints!)
Hey thanks for the video! Can the carrier bearing be replaced as well?
Also, how do you find the correct u joint? Does it go by size?
Sadly, Subaru doesn’t sell the carriers separately, you’d have to buy an entire driveshaft assembly or find one low miles from a junkyard
Erm... I don't mean to sound dumb but I have heard that I can lubricate the joint with PB blaster and it may fix the intermittent stiffness of that joint. Have you ever heard anything like that?
Красавчик, Thanks for instruction. Liked. Subscribed.
I wonder if this is what’s making that “clack, clack” sound right after I drive from a stop on my ‘01 Forester.. actually I think the sound is also present when the car’s about to come to a stop..
Do you happen to know if this will also work on an 02 h6? I have a press is that really the only special equipment needed?
Should be the same for the 02 H6.
@@MrSubaru1387 do you know if any replacement ujoint works?
I have an 2005 Baja non-turbo automatic transmission . I replaced the Ujoints and still have vibrations. It happens from 30mph till about 60mph. Above that it’s not as much. Any ideas?
After time, have these u joints held up?
I’ve been chasing a problem for a while trying to figure out why my 04 outback lurches all the time. Being on and off the gas pedal when cruising it bucks back and forth a lot, and under hard acceleration it’ll buck a lot when the clutch is fully engaged and even throttle is applied. I’ve replaced pretty much everything else along the line as far as bushings go, even checked backlash on the rear diff. Would a bad u joint cause these problems? I don’t hear much noise but sometimes will hear a squeaking sound coming from the center of the car. It makes it difficult to drive tbe car smoothly no matter what you do, even when being very careful and slow with changing gears. Car has pretty much new everything down the line.
Any idea what part number u-joint I would need for a 2001 Outback? Thanks in advance!
Same as in the video.
the thing I am confused about is how do you pick which u-joint to buy when all of them are listed as non compatible.
You ever think about getting junk yard parts example drive shafts front and rear spindles starting an exchange program where were you can rebuild components that might be a little hard for the average person. they would send you the core back. rebuild differentials and stuff like that I'm just saying
Will this part work for a 2001 Subaru Forester you think? More importantly, I can buy a 20 ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight and get the part for a hundred bucks less than buying the entire shaft. Do you think the Harbor Freight 20-ton is strong enough or will I need to buy a several hundred dollar one to do this? Thanks
Does anyone know the easiest way to get to the steering shaft to replace it on a 2005 wrx? Can you get it from the top, or do you have to drop the engine cradle?
Does this work on an automatic transmission rear drive shaft 2005 Subaru, WRX
Tank u very much
Mr Subaru i bought a set of slotted drilled rotors for my 96 Outback Legacy company called R1 Concepts online very happy with their service highly recommend them brake specialist company
Would this be the same part for a 2008 outback?
What about that carrier bearing?
am i able to use this method on my rear U joint thats not connected to the yoke
does a 2016 subaru impreza have one or 2 u joints?
Should be two with a slip joint near the carrier bearing.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the quick reply, any idea of which u-joints I need for my car?
Can you help me with the part number of the u joint for Subaru forester 2011 2.0XS NA? The part number is not available onine and only shows the whole drive shaft assembly... I only need the joint
Is there anyway you can help me with a part number on a 2002 Subaru outback LL bean edition h6 3.0 for universal joint on the front
Do you know if that Neapco part number (1-0430) will work for an ‘11 outback? (2.5L, CVT)
My son’s first car and he’s still not able to drive it yet... and nobody has the aftermarket shaft in stock 🙄
Btw, awesome video... I laughed when they told me at the Subaru parts counter that it wasn’t a user serviceable part... if somebody and rebuild them, so can we!
I'm not totally sure on a 2011,but I'm fairly sure that all Subaru U-joints are the same size.
So once I got it out and could measure it up, I can confirm that a Rockford Driveline 430-10 u joint works in a 2011 Outback 👍🏻
(For the guy that sees this video a year from now and has the same question as me, lol)
@@Gerg914 yesss thank you for this! Needed the part number haha
Would I be able to replace the joints on my 05 Outback or is it non-serviceable?
Great video! I did everything recommended on my '03 Outback H6 but am having a terrible time with driveshaft vibrations now. I even had it balanced professionally and that didn't fix it. I'm thinking since my driveshaft has a CV joint it could be that? Any other ideas welcome!
+Matt Balder so you replaced the U-joints, had it balanced, and you still have a vibration?
Yep, still vibrating. It was actually very minimal vibrations before I replaced the joints but they were notchy when I removed the driveshaft so decided to go ahead and replace both.
I did my own balance for about 2 weeks to get me by with hose clamps because the driveshaft shop was closed. It worked ok but I hope I didn't mess it up by doing that.
+Matt Balder so now the driveshaft shop has balanced it and it's still vibrating?
MrSubaru1387 yes, still vibrating after a fresh balance. Going back tomorrow to the shop to take them for a drive. It's a different type of vibe than before. Noticable at 35mph and is more like an intermittent rumble. Might be a second order driveshaft vibration. Hope I can figure it out...
awesome video. Just wondering, I have a 99 Liberty (Australian Legacy) Would the same U-Joints be good for my drive shaft (Ones in Australia range from $35 AUD to $125 AUD)? When looking at part's it usually says something like " rear drive shaft to rear diff" or "front & rear staked joint" so just confused and wouldn't want to bugger up the job due to said confusion.
As far as I know, the U-joint shown in the video is the same one used on nearly all Subarus.
Cheers for that
How's the long term reliability on these?
How do you know how far to press each cap in when installing the new u joint? Do they hit a stop. Just wondering how you can guarantee that the joint is centered properly
You press it till the groove is flush with the ear so that the c-clip can be inserted.
I have replaced front bearing, rebuild the driveshaft and I still have a loud noise at high speed coming from the front. I feel the vibration at my feet???????
Where did you buy them ..... I need mine for a subaru forester 2004
For Subaru wrx 2004 is the same u joint (neapco u joint 1-0430)???
Were can i buy the parts
Great video, our 04 out back l.l. bean did something weird. While driving one day the floor shifter suddenly started to BREAK APART while driving! I've heard the source of the issue may have come from bad u joints. Any thoughts or advice?
+Christina Washington the actual gear lever broke?
MrSubaru1387 not the lever, more so the components of the shifter unit itself, or gear box if you will.
Emphasis on spontaneously broke APART while driving. The car was rendered inoperable almost imediately.
+Christina Washington I'm still not sure on what you're describing. That said, the U-joints have no effect on the shifter.
+Christina Washington if a U-joint breaks, the car wouldn't move. The propeller shaft (driveshaft) would shear away from the yoke at the transmission, or at the rear differential, depending on which U-joint broke.
The Yoda of Subaru's.
how would you go about this without a press?
Use a hammer and a big enough punch or even a socket. Its not that hard
@@MrSubaru1387 never mentionned a hub or bearing. I meant you can take out a u-joint from a drive shaft with a hammer and a punch you just have to be wise. I do it all the time.
@@SalvadorBtc sorry. Was responding to new comments in list form. Thought this was on the rear wheel bearing video.
Subaru doesn't sell the part, and everywhere I look either sells the the whole shaft or tells me they don't have a matching part. Where can I get the replacement joint and how do I know it will fit?
Im driving a 2010 forester MT if anyone has a specific recommendation.
Hey so ny car shakes and clanks when i go from park to reverse. People have told me that it is the u joints. Do you think it is?
Could also be a motor mount.
What year and model is this subaru? Would it be the same on an 03 legacy L 2.5 wagon with the 5 speed?
I think this was a 1998 outback auto.
@@MrSubaru1387 there is some sort of weird casing over the middle ujoint and where the shaft splits in half. How do I get that off