I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
agree with your take about needing smaller pieces. I know I'm guilty of wanting big slabs when I really just need smaller pieces. This is a really practical method of milling smaller stock . Thanks for the tips.
Build article: www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/chainsaw-mill.html This arrangement is great for the short log sections that I have and probably wouldn't be a good solution for anything much longer. Ways YOU can help support the work I do in making these videos: Plans for sale: www.ibuildit.ca/plans.html Making these videos is expensive and time consuming, and you can help by becoming a supporter of this channel on Patreon. For as little as $1 per month, you'll get early access to regular videos and also exclusive videos made just for my Patreon supporters! www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h Did you know I have two other UA-cam channels? My main channel: ua-cam.com/users/jpheisz My home reno channel: ua-cam.com/channels/MlfKvFrEpzg1PEpTzJDWoA.html
Wow!!! I am surprised . That worked better than I initially expected . Since that suites your purposes there is no need to make it complicated .... nice job ...
Hello from the other end of Ontario. Nicely done, John. The best solution to any problem is usually the least complicated. Everything I need to do this is already in my shop including the logs to be cut. Gave this a thumbs up and subscribed ages ago. Work safe.
This is SO awesome, thanks. I've been splitting logs this size to make little quarter-sawn boards out of but it is sooo wasteful. I would waste far less material this way. Splitting was kinda good for archery bow wood because splitting followed the waves of grain more than sawing through them (which can be good anti-splintering for tension and compression purposes for a bowyer) but to save on wood for making straight-grain instrument bridges I can't wait to do this.
John that is a great prof of concept the only change that I would make is to set the saw plate at an angle of around 30 degrees then the chain works better, still got to hand it to you, you have made it look simple, you have a wonderful mind keep using it for good my friend
Great video - Thanks !!!! Here's a suggestion - if you don't want to drill into the handle or the body of your chainsaw then use some U-Shaped brackets and bolt them in place on the other side of the sliding box. For a quick-release system use wing-nuts. I realize the spacing is tight inside the box, but with a little clever engineering this may work. As for the bottom mounting of the saw - spacing for the nuts is not an issue. Thanks again for the great video.
Nice Job! Sweet and simple. If you do not want to attach the saw with screws you could probably use hose clamps for the handle and small clamps from Harbor Freight for the flat areas. Thanks for posting!
Filing your chain to a ripping chain (90 degrees angle i.s.o. 30) when the chain needs to be sharpened will even improve on the cutting speed is my experience. really nice build. thanks for sharing. cheers.
I have a Jonsered w/ a 20" bar I used it with my panthermill 2 with the regular chain did a few logs and then took one of my older chains and made it a ripping chain. I noticed a big difference in quality of the face smoothness comparing the two side by side.
John, Nice innovation. The stability of the square post is a nice improvement over just a 2x4. I am doing some chainsaw milling on smaller logs. The chainsaw is operating horizontally which is at times problematic. The normal chain on the saw is meant for cross cutting and a ripping chain would be a nice addition if you plan to do a lot of milling. I'm also very respectful, even scared of what a blade can do. Might be good to have some safety equipment other than vigilance. LOL!
Gravity... I love the way you are thinking outside of the box. A few points: - A ripping chain will be easier on your chain saw. Whatever you are using an Alaskan Mill or your wonderful contraption, you will greatly benefit from getting the right one. - Please look into tensioning the chain a bit more than it was while filming this. - Lastly, whenever you are filing or replacing the chain, reverse the chainsaw blade as well to get it to wear evenly. Keep on your good work.
My man...this is getting built in my yard soon...but of course since I'm well versed in the tree world I'll be making some adjustments....ty for the tips....
Nice job. You learn fast and rectify. You making it easier for us to copy if we have the need. Hole in board for sawdust was a good mod. Gravity is working with you too.
great idea for shorter logs...one thing I did notice was that there was a bit of spring in the 4x4 post. What if you anchored the post to the top of the log you are going to cut once the chainsaw is on the post. That was once the saw is cutting there would be no forward and backward movement that may cause the saw to buck. Love the vids...
Important note to do it yourselfers doing this... my experience here is once you have tamped down the dirt around the wood is to leave maybe 3 inches of hole you then fill the hole with water, then let dry in the hot sun a week... this will compact the ground amazingly solid!!! If you are using concrete with a 4x4, bolt a 4 foot long 6x6 large steel angle to the bottom of your 4x4 so only the steel angel is in the ground so your wood will not rot!!!
Hello John Nice video and a great idea. now get you a rip chain (yes they do make them) for your saw and it will cut lots faster and be easier on the saw.
I Build It They make a huge difference in how often you have to resharpen, and with an Echo chainsaw you always want a sharp chain as the Oiler gets packed with sawdust and oil so the Oiler won’t oil the bar due to all the much smaller chips. I assume other brands have the same problem, but I haven’t examined oilers on other saws as in depth as I have the ones on the two echos I bought used (and had to clean the packed oil and sawdust out of the way so the oilers would work; a CS440 and CS 4400). You can grind down the teeth on your chain to ten degrees, like on standard ripping chains, but most people prefer to start with the right chain...forester brand makes ripping chains, there is an Australian company that specializes in it as well.... I LOVE your concept and proof, but think a 12 foot version to accomplish the milling I need to do might be a bit on the stupid side of things...... doesn’t mean I won’t consider it..... ;-) GREAT VIDEO!
The most important ideas here are that 1) mounting chainsaw is simple and lightweight, 2) you need only one person to operate because 3) you're using gravity as your friend, as opposed to human effort required to push/pull an Alaskan mill on longer stock. How to extend this concept so that working on much longer/heavier stock becomes feasible AND for complete milling of the stock, with only one operator? 1) Construct a staircase, with attached vertical guidepost for chainsaw, that permits operating chainsaw at the max height of your stock. As operator works down the stock, step down the stairs. Put base of staircase on track with clamping that permits moving it left/right in front of the (vertical) stock after each cut. 2) Make a raised platform for the bottom end of the stock. Permanently attach 2 robust metal spikes pointing up from the platform to hold the stock's (flat) bottom end in place. Spikes hold the stock to the left/right of the next vertical cut. Maybe put two pairs of spikes on top of two separate simple hydraulic jacks, and swap them (such as going left/right) to support the stock after each vertical cut. Bottom (spiked) end of the stock is cut off as waste after milling. 3) Use operator's favorite/suitable tall, robust grasping technique to hold up the top end of the uncut stock. Operator guides each newly cut piece into nearby vertical hopper. 4) Operator unloads vertical hopper using favorite/suitable technique.
I'm thinking to reduce drag we could connect the saw saddle structure to the outer runner board to "create the box" so the drag during any drop runs against the shank of the bolts (or add some conduit rollers). Eliminate the drag boards. Sizing would then be fully adjustable to maximize drop speed capability or compensate for out of square/twists in the guide board. A hillbilly jumbo log clamp could be handy and industrial size zip ties might just cinch a saw down through clearance holes in the saddle board Other than that my only thoughts would turn to weights or counterweight to automate and select your feed rate.
Well that seemed to work out quite well for a simple setup. After cutting up that tree and getting all that lumber it will more than pay for the chain saw and 4X4, and you still have the saw and 4X4 to use them elsewhere.
Interesting idea John, one thing I've thought about for similar reasons would be a powered hand held planer. I've heard of timber framers here using them sometimes as a kind of motorized hewing axe.
That worked well knotch out the base and your down to the bottom no problem. You should see the beast im currently making. Im using a brand new 12" blade/chain bolted on a 240v 1200w electric motor mounted vertically to use as a rough cutting bandsaw table. The motor is mounted in a hoover casing and provides its own suction so i will add the small alloy cyclone that isnt big enough for anything else to suck most of the chips away, Also going to use a sowing machine type vaiable speed pedal as i dont have a chain brake, I know its not idea but all i can afford. I just needed some way of cutting blanks for my lathe and my evil creation will do that just fine. Keep up the good work .
You need more support log runner blocks on your saw mill & ya gotta find a way to support your upright logs without screws, maybe some type of bottom hinged support brace, off your base & a single screw through it on the top
Looks like it works great! If it makes it to a more permanent version have you considered square aluminum tubing instead of a wooden post? Wouldn't have to deal with any swelling. Could even have a larger piece of square tubing ride up and down it
Wow, I'm impressed with your thinking, presentation and process! A+! Im thinking though of going beyond this to a taller version perhaps heavier post and ladder to cut maybe 8 footers? Nice work! /de
i have a huge length elm burl log i would like to attempt a vertical slice thru.....i was thinking about attaching the upper end of the 4x4 to a high tree limb for a top support on this idea
Consider - an 8 foot long 4" PVC pipe costs about $11 at home depot. Get two side by side and mount them floor to ceiling in a shop. Then, you would need to drill out 2 4" PVC couplings and build a box so that it slides nicely up and down. Enhance with pulley, rope and a hand crank or even a winch. Figure out some way to add and subtract weight to the sled. And I would fill the pipes with either sand or yellow expanding foam. Oh, and watch out for ventilation so that the carbon monoxide doesn't kill you.
Having an Alaskan mill I would have to agree with you. For the size logs you have it is much less work. You have to push an Alaskan mill through the log so for logs two, three or more times as long there is a lot of effort on the operator. For denser woods I would recommend a skip tooth blade but for as few logs as you have it isn't worth the effort of modifying or purchasing one. The only thing I have come across that makes an Alaskan mill easier to operate is a hand winch to lessen the work required.
Could also try n throw some furniture wax on the sliding part to reduce friction. Im trying to mill some oak i've had sitting for a while and this one seems like a cool idea
I've been cutting firewood for 45 years and have used many saws. The best one by far is my Echo. I've had it for 9 years and it's still going strong. Starts on the first or second pull. But I always use 91 octane gas; never use 87 or 89 octane because of their having alcohol in them.
great project! So im guessing by the Maximum impact and driver that your a fellow Canadian! Just recently discovered your videos. Im subscribed and enjoy watching them! Keep up the good work.
Consider - an 8 foot long 4" PVC pipe costs about $11 at home depot. Get two side by side and mount them floor to ceiling in a shop. Then, you would need to drill out 2 4" PVC couplings and build a box so that it slides nicely up and down. Enhance with pulley, rope and a hand crank or even a winch. Figure out some way to add and subtract weight to the sled. And I would fill the pipes with either sand or yellow expanding foam. Oh, and watch out for ventilation so that the carbon monoxide doesn't kill you.
Great idea! I heard you say you were using a brand new saw and chain so I was wondering if you were using a ripping chain. A ripping chain will go through the log much quicker and easier plus give you a cleaner cut. I have 2 saws that I use on a regular basis. One with a regular or cross cut chain and one with a ripping chain. Having both chains makes cutting wood much easier. Cheers mate and happy trails
This is a great idea. Only problem is now you have to dry the wood either in a kiln or rig up your own thing. You want to make sure your moisture content is correct.
Drill some holes in the post you can put a stop for the carriage hinge on the backside of the carriage guide allows you to put it on without going over the top f the post and a longer post so you can cut bigger logs there’s quite a pile behind you
Nice idea. Most of what I have seen are horizontal, which is very good for longer stuff. I will be looking for a chain saw now. I had not gotten to excited about getting one until I saw your video. Thanks for sharing. I would love to find some Maple around here. Again, thanks for sharing.
I couldn't attach my Husqvarna like that. The bottom of the handle is part of the gas tank. Check your saw before drilling holes in it! I like your idea. How do you keep the band saw cutting straight? I didn't see any guides.
Doesn't the saw overheat with the discharge blocked on the bottom of it by the plywood and the saw having to deal with the extra friction of all that wood chips and dust around the clutch and sprocket...I see some is coming out with the blade but it's been reduced to fine sawdust, no big chips. I like the idea though, got some 3 foot logs that have been drying for 2 years that I need to plank for some wainscoting for the front room reno coming up next spring. Thanks for the vid
Excellent. Your bandsaw runs sweetly. That will be my next big purchase... well, actually it will be my second-next (did I just invent a word?) because I just agreed to buy my mate's Jet (Powermatic) lathe. There will be a video after the new workshop build. I'll have to store it as I have nowhere to put it.
The guys are finishing a shop for one of their daughters so I told them to get it done and then come to do mine because I don't want her not able to work because of my job. Don't worry, there will be videos but, when I went to do the first one the battery wouldn't charge in my camera. I checked how much a new Canon battery was and it was £89!!! The camera cost £120 in a sale. So I bought a spurious one for £11. Same 2 year warranty etc. So, when it arrives I'll fire a video up. B.
great idea John, I never liked the standard chainsaw mill as it always looked like way to much work. I think your cut was extra smooth because with the vertical setup the weight of the slab wasn't constantly pinching the chain causing extra marks. It looks like the chips were spitting out the top of the chain, is the platform blocking the chip port at the bottom back of the chain? Also, try and pop the bark off before running through your bandsaw as the bark will dull your blade much faster than the wood.
The bark is coming off pretty easy now after sitting out for a few months. But I think it would be faster and easier to just resharpen the blade than to pull it off when it was still completely green. I'm more worried about buried treasure, like screws or nails driven in and grown over as the tree matured.
You should basically turn that post, into a big ass bar clamp too a just tack on clamp on the top positioned behind the chain saw and you don’t need any nails tack it down.
with that flat piece of 3/4 board on the bottom of the saw you blocked were the saw chips come out and could cause the saw to over heat and quit working
Neat simple setup. Only thing I noticed was there was no place for the chips to kick Out below the saw near the clutch. They could pack up in there cause oiling issues
John, FYI, I was looking at your UA-cam announcement page for this video and noticed that the link for your Home Reno Channel doesn't seem to be working for some reason. I think you do great work and I enjoy your videos tremendously. Thanks for all your work.
Thank the geniuses at UA-cam for that - it probably doesn't display the full link address and is completely out of my control. I post the links in the video description and my first comment as well.
interesting idea. think bolts be better if wanted remove saw that allow you to. think glue or to base then cut say five inches away bottom cut borders. then turn on side cut like would cut log that free bordes
![easy chainsaw milling on the spot with a DIY mill guide jig [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3E3Ha84MyVM/mqdefault.jpg)
We've got the same problem - and you've found a great solution 🙂 Greetings from Germany
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
agree with your take about needing smaller pieces. I know I'm guilty of wanting big slabs when I really just need smaller pieces. This is a really practical method of milling smaller stock . Thanks for the tips.
As a woodturner, I've been wrestling with making vertical cuts safely on a log with my chainsaw...can't wait to try your rig for some bowl blanks!
Build article: www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/chainsaw-mill.html
This arrangement is great for the short log sections that I have and probably wouldn't be a good solution for anything much longer.
Ways YOU can help support the work I do in making these videos:
Plans for sale: www.ibuildit.ca/plans.html
Making these videos is expensive and time consuming, and you can help by becoming a supporter of this channel on Patreon. For as little as $1 per month, you'll get early access to regular videos and also exclusive videos made just for my Patreon supporters!
www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
Did you know I have two other UA-cam channels?
My main channel: ua-cam.com/users/jpheisz
My home reno channel: ua-cam.com/channels/MlfKvFrEpzg1PEpTzJDWoA.html
How powerful is your saw ?
I Build It
Wow!!! I am surprised . That worked better than I initially expected . Since that suites your purposes there is no need to make it complicated .... nice job ...
Hello from the other end of Ontario. Nicely done, John. The best solution to any problem is usually the least complicated. Everything I need to do this is already in my shop including the logs to be cut. Gave this a thumbs up and subscribed ages ago. Work safe.
Concept is: Simple Solid & Proven! Great video. Thank you for "posting" this video!
This is SO awesome, thanks. I've been splitting logs this size to make little quarter-sawn boards out of but it is sooo wasteful. I would waste far less material this way. Splitting was kinda good for archery bow wood because splitting followed the waves of grain more than sawing through them (which can be good anti-splintering for tension and compression purposes for a bowyer) but to save on wood for making straight-grain instrument bridges I can't wait to do this.
Awesome. This solves a couple of problems I've been mulling. Thanks for sharing.
John that is a great prof of concept the only change that I would make is to set the saw plate at an angle of around 30 degrees then the chain works better, still got to hand it to you, you have made it look simple, you have a wonderful mind keep using it for good my friend
At 30 degrees, you are cutting diagonally through the wood, which means you'll be cutting more wood at a time.
Nice. Very nice. There´s a lot of people that show in horizontal... but you´re the first a see that shows in vertical. Thank you.
This has renewed my hope in milling my own lumber. Thanks for the video.
The best ,smart and practical way chain saw mill that i have seen . Cool!!!
Great video - Thanks !!!!
Here's a suggestion - if you don't want to drill into the handle or the body of your chainsaw then use some U-Shaped brackets and bolt them in place on the other side of the sliding box. For a quick-release system use wing-nuts. I realize the spacing is tight inside the box, but with a little clever engineering this may work. As for the bottom mounting of the saw - spacing for the nuts is not an issue. Thanks again for the great video.
Nice Job! Sweet and simple. If you do not want to attach the saw with screws you could probably use hose clamps for the handle and small clamps from Harbor Freight for the flat areas. Thanks for posting!
do you mean U bolts?, not c clamps?
Filing your chain to a ripping chain (90 degrees angle i.s.o. 30) when the chain needs to be sharpened will even improve on the cutting speed is my experience. really nice build. thanks for sharing. cheers.
I have the exact same saw.
Switched the factory 18’’ blade for a 16’’ blade.
Magic!!
You sir are an excellent communicator, keep up the good work!!
Yet another simple, genius solution. I have the same saw and some logs. Boards soon. Thanks!
Thanks!
I Build It what about the chip ejection port at the back of the bar? Did you cover that?
I have a Jonsered w/ a 20" bar I used it with my panthermill 2 with the regular chain did a few logs and then took one of my older chains and made it a ripping chain. I noticed a big difference in quality of the face smoothness comparing the two side by side.
Not really concerned about how smooth the cut is, since it needs to be planed after it dries.
John, Nice innovation. The stability of the square post is a nice improvement over just a 2x4. I am doing some chainsaw milling on smaller logs. The chainsaw is operating horizontally which is at times problematic. The normal chain on the saw is meant for cross cutting and a ripping chain would be a nice addition if you plan to do a lot of milling. I'm also very respectful, even scared of what a blade can do. Might be good to have some safety equipment other than vigilance. LOL!
Gravity... I love the way you are thinking outside of the box.
A few points:
- A ripping chain will be easier on your chain saw. Whatever you are using an Alaskan Mill or your wonderful contraption, you will greatly benefit from getting the right one.
- Please look into tensioning the chain a bit more than it was while filming this.
- Lastly, whenever you are filing or replacing the chain, reverse the chainsaw blade as well to get it to wear evenly.
Keep on your good work.
"reverse the chainsaw blade"
i.e. Turn the BAR (that the blade runs on) upside down.
I just milled up some red oak on my homemade Alaskan mill on Wednesday! This is a great way to mill, I love thinking outside the box like this John!
ua-cam.com/video/p1N6RZ_EbvA/v-deo.html
My man...this is getting built in my yard soon...but of course since I'm well versed in the tree world I'll be making some adjustments....ty for the tips....
Nice job. You learn fast and rectify. You making it easier for us to copy if we have the need. Hole in board for sawdust was a good mod. Gravity is working with you too.
Nice simple idea, I really like it! You always seem to have some great and realistic ideas, thank you for posting them. I subscribed on this one!
Simpler is always better and that seems pretty simple a guided chainsaw straight down. Really ingenuitive!
Nice. Easy quick build for shorter lengths. I am going to use this! And I don't even need a welder, which is nice. Thanks!
great idea for shorter logs...one thing I did notice was that there was a bit of spring in the 4x4 post. What if you anchored the post to the top of the log you are going to cut once the chainsaw is on the post. That was once the saw is cutting there would be no forward and backward movement that may cause the saw to buck. Love the vids...
Thought about it, but I think the movement might actually help make the cutting more efficient by a small amount. The post never did get loose.
great look forward to seeing more...
Important note to do it yourselfers doing this... my experience here is once you have tamped down the dirt around the wood is to leave maybe 3 inches of hole you then fill the hole with water, then let dry in the hot sun a week... this will compact the ground amazingly solid!!! If you are using concrete with a 4x4, bolt a 4 foot long 6x6 large steel angle to the bottom of your 4x4 so only the steel angel is in the ground so your wood will not rot!!!
Great idea and simple "jig"! Cheap in materials too...except for a new chainsaw! perfect DIY mill...
thank you very much. I am about to mill some of my own lumber and this gives me some great ideas to work with
I love everything about it EXCEPT for how the log is secured.
As a proof of concept vertical mill, it worked great, thanks for the video on it John.
- Eddy
Hello John Nice video and a great idea. now get you a rip chain (yes they do make them) for your saw and it will cut lots faster and be easier on the saw.
Heard it said that rip chains don't make much of a difference (yes, I did hear of rip chains).
I Build It
They make a huge difference in how often you have to resharpen, and with an Echo chainsaw you always want a sharp chain as the Oiler gets packed with sawdust and oil so the Oiler won’t oil the bar due to all the much smaller chips. I assume other brands have the same problem, but I haven’t examined oilers on other saws as in depth as I have the ones on the two echos I bought used (and had to clean the packed oil and sawdust out of the way so the oilers would work; a CS440 and CS 4400).
You can grind down the teeth on your chain to ten degrees, like on standard ripping chains, but most people prefer to start with the right chain...forester brand makes ripping chains, there is an Australian company that specializes in it as well....
I LOVE your concept and proof, but think a 12 foot version to accomplish the milling I need to do might be a bit on the stupid side of things...... doesn’t mean I won’t consider it..... ;-)
GREAT VIDEO!
The most important ideas here are that 1) mounting chainsaw is simple and lightweight, 2) you need only one person to operate because 3) you're using gravity as your friend, as opposed to human effort required to push/pull an Alaskan mill on longer stock.
How to extend this concept so that working on much longer/heavier stock becomes feasible AND for complete milling of the stock, with only one operator?
1) Construct a staircase, with attached vertical guidepost for chainsaw, that permits operating chainsaw at the max height of your stock. As operator works down the stock, step down the stairs. Put base of staircase on track with clamping that permits moving it left/right in front of the (vertical) stock after each cut.
2) Make a raised platform for the bottom end of the stock. Permanently attach 2 robust metal spikes pointing up from the platform to hold the stock's (flat) bottom end in place. Spikes hold the stock to the left/right of the next vertical cut. Maybe put two pairs of spikes on top of two separate simple hydraulic jacks, and swap them (such as going left/right) to support the stock after each vertical cut. Bottom (spiked) end of the stock is cut off as waste after milling.
3) Use operator's favorite/suitable tall, robust grasping technique to hold up the top end of the uncut stock. Operator guides each newly cut piece into nearby vertical hopper.
4) Operator unloads vertical hopper using favorite/suitable technique.
I'm thinking to reduce drag we could connect the saw saddle structure to the outer runner board to "create the box" so the drag during any drop runs against the shank of the bolts (or add some conduit rollers). Eliminate the drag boards. Sizing would then be fully adjustable to maximize drop speed capability or compensate for out of square/twists in the guide board. A hillbilly jumbo log clamp could be handy and industrial size zip ties might just cinch a saw down through clearance holes in the saddle board Other than that my only thoughts would turn to weights or counterweight to automate and select your feed rate.
Well that seemed to work out quite well for a simple setup. After cutting up that tree and getting all that lumber it will more than pay for the chain saw and 4X4, and you still have the saw and 4X4 to use them elsewhere.
It certainly makes it a lot easier to do, so I'll probably get all of the bigger stuff cut up.
This is how I have to explain tool purchases to my girlfriend, and counter their desire to buy clothes etc with the same concept.
Hey John, worked great for the logs you have. Turn them into something beautiful.
Interesting idea John, one thing I've thought about for similar reasons would be a powered hand held planer. I've heard of timber framers here using them sometimes as a kind of motorized hewing axe.
Great idea and video! Easier and less expensive live edge tables!! Thanks!!
That worked well knotch out the base and your down to the bottom no problem.
You should see the beast im currently making. Im using a brand new 12" blade/chain bolted on a 240v 1200w electric motor mounted vertically to use as a rough cutting bandsaw table. The motor is mounted in a hoover casing and provides its own suction so i will add the small alloy cyclone that isnt big enough for anything else to suck most of the chips away, Also going to use a sowing machine type vaiable speed pedal as i dont have a chain brake, I know its not idea but all i can afford. I just needed some way of cutting blanks for my lathe and my evil creation will do that just fine.
Keep up the good work .
Works well John. Wish I had some of your Maple!
I can send you a piece, when it's dried :D
I Build It N
You need more support log runner blocks on your saw mill & ya gotta find a way to support your upright logs without screws, maybe some type of bottom hinged support brace, off your base & a single screw through it on the top
Nice idea. I owned an Alaskan sawmill before buying a bandsaw mill and I can guarantee your setup is a lot easier to operate than the Alaskan.
Looks like it works great! If it makes it to a more permanent version have you considered square aluminum tubing instead of a wooden post? Wouldn't have to deal with any swelling. Could even have a larger piece of square tubing ride up and down it
Wow, I'm impressed with your thinking, presentation and process! A+!
Im thinking though of going beyond this to a taller version perhaps heavier post and ladder to cut maybe 8 footers?
Nice work! /de
i have a huge length elm burl log i would like to attempt a vertical slice thru.....i was thinking about attaching the upper end of the 4x4 to a high tree limb for a top support on this idea
Consider - an 8 foot long 4" PVC pipe costs about $11 at home depot. Get two side by side and mount them floor to ceiling in a shop. Then, you would need to drill out 2 4" PVC couplings and build a box so that it slides nicely up and down. Enhance with pulley, rope and a hand crank or even a winch. Figure out some way to add and subtract weight to the sled. And I would fill the pipes with either sand or yellow expanding foam. Oh, and watch out for ventilation so that the carbon monoxide doesn't kill you.
Having an Alaskan mill I would have to agree with you. For the size logs you have it is much less work. You have to push an Alaskan mill through the log so for logs two, three or more times as long there is a lot of effort on the operator. For denser woods I would recommend a skip tooth blade but for as few logs as you have it isn't worth the effort of modifying or purchasing one. The only thing I have come across that makes an Alaskan mill easier to operate is a hand winch to lessen the work required.
Nice Job. I like that design. 👍👍👍
Much better than an Alaskan sawmill for smaller logs probably, those work best on logs wide enough to support the complete frame/ladder.
Could also try n throw some furniture wax on the sliding part to reduce friction. Im trying to mill some oak i've had sitting for a while and this one seems like a cool idea
I've been cutting firewood for 45 years and have used many saws. The best one by far is my Echo. I've had it for 9 years and it's still going strong. Starts on the first or second pull. But I always use 91 octane gas; never use 87 or 89 octane because of their having alcohol in them.
great project!
So im guessing by the Maximum impact and driver that your a fellow Canadian!
Just recently discovered your videos. Im subscribed and enjoy watching them!
Keep up the good work.
Looks amazing. Simple yet sophisticated
Thats awesome I might have to try that. I might have to get like a 12ft post to cut 8ft logs
youre the 1st one that use gravity as help for cuting the wood.
clever move.
Gravity helps an Alaskan mill too just not in the same way.
I saw this vid a couple years ago, and rugged up a divise next to a standing tree... Worked awesome!
This is excellent idé. I will use this for my handicraft wood.
Great idea! There is definitely room for improvement. I'd like to see you return to this in a week or two with some improvements! Thanks john.
Consider - an 8 foot long 4" PVC pipe costs about $11 at home depot. Get two side by side and mount them floor to ceiling in a shop. Then, you would need to drill out 2 4" PVC couplings and build a box so that it slides nicely up and down. Enhance with pulley, rope and a hand crank or even a winch. Figure out some way to add and subtract weight to the sled. And I would fill the pipes with either sand or yellow expanding foam. Oh, and watch out for ventilation so that the carbon monoxide doesn't kill you.
Great video. I'm glad it worked. I wonder if I should try something like this for bigger logs.
Great idea! I heard you say you were using a brand new saw and chain so I was wondering if you were using a ripping chain. A ripping chain will go through the log much quicker and easier plus give you a cleaner cut. I have 2 saws that I use on a regular basis. One with a regular or cross cut chain and one with a ripping chain. Having both chains makes cutting wood much easier.
Cheers mate and happy trails
This is a great idea. Only problem is now you have to dry the wood either in a kiln or rig up your own thing. You want to make sure your moisture content is correct.
Drill some holes in the post you can put a stop for the carriage hinge on the backside of the carriage guide allows you to put it on without going over the top f the post and a longer post so you can cut bigger logs there’s quite a pile behind you
great build john thanks
Nice idea. Most of what I have seen are horizontal, which is very good for longer stuff. I will be looking for a chain saw now. I had not gotten to excited about getting one until I saw your video. Thanks for sharing. I would love to find some Maple around here. Again, thanks for sharing.
I couldn't attach my Husqvarna like that. The bottom of the handle is part of the gas tank. Check your saw before drilling holes in it! I like your idea. How do you keep the band saw cutting straight? I didn't see any guides.
I think you have something for you . Have been thinking of making a mill but did not think of a vertical rig. Seems to be a lot less labor involved.
Doesn't the saw overheat with the discharge blocked on the bottom of it by the plywood and the saw having to deal with the extra friction of all that wood chips and dust around the clutch and sprocket...I see some is coming out with the blade but it's been reduced to fine sawdust, no big chips. I like the idea though, got some 3 foot logs that have been drying for 2 years that I need to plank for some wainscoting for the front room reno coming up next spring. Thanks for the vid
Pretty damn ingenious setup I could use something like that around my shop. Another great idea, thanks.
Great Job as always
Awesome !! This has given me cheap and easy way of milling !!
Thanks a million for sharing !!
Regards, Steve.
What a cool idea! Great video!
Great idea and even good for a ripping plywood.
Excellent. Your bandsaw runs sweetly. That will be my next big purchase... well, actually it will be my second-next (did I just invent a word?) because I just agreed to buy my mate's Jet (Powermatic) lathe. There will be a video after the new workshop build. I'll have to store it as I have nowhere to put it.
Thanks! So, what's happening with the new shop? Haven't seen any video yet :(
The guys are finishing a shop for one of their daughters so I told them to get it done and then come to do mine because I don't want her not able to work because of my job. Don't worry, there will be videos but, when I went to do the first one the battery wouldn't charge in my camera. I checked how much a new Canon battery was and it was £89!!! The camera cost £120 in a sale. So I bought a spurious one for £11. Same 2 year warranty etc. So, when it arrives I'll fire a video up.
B.
baconsoda
I'm very much looking forward to it, but no pressure :D
Batteries are a ripoff, for sure.
great idea John, I never liked the standard chainsaw mill as it always looked like way to much work. I think your cut was extra smooth because with the vertical setup the weight of the slab wasn't constantly pinching the chain causing extra marks.
It looks like the chips were spitting out the top of the chain, is the platform blocking the chip port at the bottom back of the chain?
Also, try and pop the bark off before running through your bandsaw as the bark will dull your blade much faster than the wood.
The bark is coming off pretty easy now after sitting out for a few months. But I think it would be faster and easier to just resharpen the blade than to pull it off when it was still completely green. I'm more worried about buried treasure, like screws or nails driven in and grown over as the tree matured.
Great idea, John!! Gonna start digging the hole today!! Thanks.
Great idea--Look at all that great lumber! That's $100 at the box store, easy.
Try using ripping chain. It's filed at 10 degrees instead of 30 degree regular chain. With ripping chain it will cut smoother and much faster.
Great Idea for fencing posts and boards etc where the finish not so important but keeps costs to a minimal. Thanks
Great idea. Maybe this could also be adapted for flattening rough sawn, dry slabs for natural edge furniture. Any ideas?. Thanks for sharing.
You should basically turn that post, into a big ass bar clamp too a just tack on clamp on the top positioned behind the chain saw and you don’t need any nails tack it down.
with that flat piece of 3/4 board on the bottom of the saw you blocked were the saw chips come out and could cause the saw to over heat and quit working
Very good experiment 👌👌
Excellent ideas 💡!Thanks . And my best compliments.
Red green would be proud
Nice job. Easy to watch.
Neat simple setup. Only thing I noticed was there was no place for the chips to kick
Out below the saw near the clutch. They could pack up in there cause oiling issues
If you buy a ripping chain for the saw, the result would be even better :-)
There is also a tool called a spade and yes you do one of those if you want to dig a hole. The shoved is for clearing the hole.
Very nice idea.
Great video, hoping that was your compost/mulch bucket there at the end;)
Great idea . You get a rip chain for your saw that is designed for this type of cut .
Great job!
Excellent idea.
I like it. You can turn the saw 4 times around and cut on any side..
It'll cut better if you use a ripping chain instead of the crosscut one that comes with the saw. Will cut through the wood smoother and faster.
Cool technique!
Thank you!
John, FYI, I was looking at your UA-cam announcement page for this video and noticed that the link for your Home Reno Channel doesn't seem to be working for some reason. I think you do great work and I enjoy your videos tremendously. Thanks for all your work.
Thank the geniuses at UA-cam for that - it probably doesn't display the full link address and is completely out of my control. I post the links in the video description and my first comment as well.
interesting idea. think bolts be better if wanted remove saw that allow you to. think glue or to base then cut say five inches away bottom cut borders. then turn on side cut like would cut log that free bordes