I’ve found that locking the timing out, keeps the plugs cleaner and the engine runs cooler. Thanks for the exhaust leak smoke machine tip, I’ll have to make one of those.
I have exhaust pipe expander. Its not very good at expanding the pipe but its pretty good at making them round again. You could get one or the muffler shop may do it for a couple bucks, they may also mess it up more. I would probably just weld them remove at the mid pipe. Jus make sure you can get the car high enough to get they off once welded.
Thanks! yeah i was thinking to try that, they have them to rent at o'reilly I just haven had much luck messing with them in the past, I may just order a new set of flow tubes
Awesome stuff man!!! So I was having the same issue with my carb and the only was I was able to get it to lean out on cruise is to change the low speed air bleeds by about .004 bigger on the primary side only. It won’t change your WOT AFR
@@vrm86gt cool. You can drill it to .035 or you can get a pack of them. I drilled mine out and it was perfect after.motor trend has a article on it somewhere
@@vrm86gt I drilled the outter ones. The outter air bleeds is for low speed and the inner ones are the high speed. I only drilled the 2 on the primary side
thats the good thing about EFI ..changed my Plugs yesterday ..not really needed .... but I did .. and the old ones look all the same ... that Holley Terminator X EFI just works perfect .... spray some Copper Spray to the Header Gaskets ..that works perfekt....Permatex.. Copper Spray a Gasket
yeah it's all part of the carb tuning process , yes efi will trim and add fuel to reach a target afr so that is convenient but efi still needs tuning as well.
Could be a foul plug from previous carb tune. Might need a warmer plug. Could be carbon build up inside the distributor cap or a plug wire that has a high resistance. Just giving you places to check.
What make and spark plug number is in the motor? Let me know and I'll give you an option for the right spark plugs. Also recheck your fuel bowl level should be in the center
If it's a street strip engine. Then go with a non projected tip plug . Try one heat range hotter than what you have now. When you go to the track use same heat range as what you have now or one heat range colder. When you go to the track up the carb primary jets to 74. See if motor lays over . If it does up the secondary to 84 if it doesn't leave it as is. Might want to check the regulator. Never had that happen when changing jets on customers mustangs. Especially with a by pass setup.
Welcome back VRM! Great update and tip on relieving the pressure in the tank before changing the jets!
found that out the hard way! LOL! thanks OG!
I’ve found that locking the timing out, keeps the plugs cleaner and the engine runs cooler. Thanks for the exhaust leak smoke machine tip, I’ll have to make one of those.
yeah mine is locked out at 32 degrees right now.
I have exhaust pipe expander. Its not very good at expanding the pipe but its pretty good at making them round again. You could get one or the muffler shop may do it for a couple bucks, they may also mess it up more. I would probably just weld them remove at the mid pipe. Jus make sure you can get the car high enough to get they off once welded.
Thanks! yeah i was thinking to try that, they have them to rent at o'reilly I just haven had much luck messing with them in the past, I may just order a new set of flow tubes
Awesome stuff man!!! So I was having the same issue with my carb and the only was I was able to get it to lean out on cruise is to change the low speed air bleeds by about .004 bigger on the primary side only. It won’t change your WOT AFR
Thanks JD I just checked and looks like mine are 30's
@@vrm86gt cool. You can drill it to .035 or you can get a pack of them. I drilled mine out and it was perfect after.motor trend has a article on it somewhere
@@jdrods1519 ok so you drilled the inner or outer air bleeds?
@@vrm86gt I drilled the outter ones. The outter air bleeds is for low speed and the inner ones are the high speed. I only drilled the 2 on the primary side
@@jdrods1519 ok looks like my outer air bleeds are 70
thats the good thing about EFI ..changed my Plugs yesterday ..not really needed .... but I did .. and the old ones look all the same ... that Holley Terminator X EFI just works perfect .... spray some Copper Spray to the Header Gaskets ..that works perfekt....Permatex.. Copper Spray a Gasket
yeah it's all part of the carb tuning process , yes efi will trim and add fuel to reach a target afr so that is convenient but efi still needs tuning as well.
Could be a foul plug from previous carb tune. Might need a warmer plug. Could be carbon build up inside the distributor cap or a plug wire that has a high resistance. Just giving you places to check.
@@MRnicknitro919 thank you!
What number NGK plugs?
What make and spark plug number is in the motor? Let me know and I'll give you an option for the right spark plugs
What make and spark plug number is in the motor? Let me know and I'll give you an option for the right spark plugs. Also recheck your fuel bowl level should be in the center
@@MRnicknitro919 thanks, plugs are autolite 3924, fuel bowl is in center of sight glass
If it's a street strip engine. Then go with a non projected tip plug . Try one heat range hotter than what you have now. When you go to the track use same heat range as what you have now or one heat range colder. When you go to the track up the carb primary jets to 74. See if motor lays over . If it does up the secondary to 84 if it doesn't leave it as is. Might want to check the regulator. Never had that happen when changing jets on customers mustangs. Especially with a by pass setup.
Also recheck timing.
@@MRnicknitro919 I did that yesterday, locked out at 32 degrees
@@MRnicknitro919 thanks for the info! yeah these efi fuel tanks are pressurized with the venting to solenoid regulated vapor canisters etc.