Slab looks spot on. My advice if your using timber frame is to put min 2 courses of engineering brick down and keep the sole plate min 6" above finished ground level.
Seen a very recent timberframe triple garage in work placed directly onto slab, big mistake, water ingress every heavy down pour regardless of outer drainage and endless sealant attempts, right mess. Moisture everywhere. Engineering brick as advised. Ground anchors/stainless m20 threaded bar etc, etc can be resin bonded into slab with the engineering brick install. Timber soleplate then on top, your outer cladding/covering then overlapping the top brick an inch or two down on the outside. Its your build.. Good luck.
@@robertoduranos5196 How does the winter get in? Passmoores garage company positions the garage on the edge of the slab and feather edge overhangs it so no chance of water getting underneath the timber
@@GeorgeAusters The concrete slab wasn't level in few places and rushed, sole plate went down level and packed up slightly to allow for this unevenness. This allowed water ingress quite easily even though it was sealed but obviously any overhang was compromised. There was also water coming in around the garage door bottom corners and soaking up the inner framework.
What advice did you get on an expansion joint ? As it’s under planning and building control I would ask when the BCO visits. You can always saw cut one in but with the building sitting on it and a car lift I would double check, but great work, to have that facility at the bottom of your garden is a dream, look forward to following the progress.
@@GeorgeAustersanything reinforced over 60sqm should have an expansion joint but with the thickness you have poured you might be ok I wouldn’t worry too much but get some advise. Everyone has an opinion, right ! People need to remember you’re doing this yourself, it doesn’t need to be perfect but it will definitely be to a high standard. So don’t let nitpicking get you down.
Hi George. That is some slab, no mistake. I did mine in 2 pours on the advice of a professional, and it is only 30 sq. m. I always intended to screed my base as the finish was not brilliant, but found out that that was quite a major job if I wanted a coating that would withstand jacks, so ended up leaving it. The damp-proof membrane looks suspect to me, but I'm far from an expert!
Yeah my finish is pretty smooth as is. They said I can sand it before painting if I wish. I'm not too concerned about damp as the concrete is so thick and the surrounding ground will be free draining.
@@GeorgeAusters I think he means it could be more even most likely, I'd probably have power floated that volume to get +/-1mm tollerance, but it all adds cost.
@@GeorgeAustersit will crack due to expansion, I’d cut a groove in the centre for the crack to form on the fill with mastic, the rebar will limit the movement but not remove it. Super happy to see you cracking this one big G!
@@GeorgeAusters Angle grind some relief cuts about 10 ft apart the whole width and depth of the concrete, fill with either bitumen / mastic or rubber or plastic strips. It may be weeks or months but it definitely WILL crack in multiple places if you leave it as is.
Ya don't want to sand the concrete George. Go over it with some self levelling compound after the roof goes on. Perfect finish 💯😊👍👌 I'm a builder George.
@@GeorgeAusters Wow that labour is so cheap! Perhaps explains why its not fully level. I'd have spent a bit more leveling at this stage so as to avoid anything but a clean down and epoxy top coat later.
Slab looks spot on. My advice if your using timber frame is to put min 2 courses of engineering brick down and keep the sole plate min 6" above finished ground level.
I'd like 2 courses but then i'd need to buy or make custom made ground anchor brackets.
The ground surrounding the garage will be gravel so free draining
Seen a very recent timberframe triple garage in work placed directly onto slab, big mistake, water ingress every heavy down pour regardless of outer drainage and endless sealant attempts, right mess. Moisture everywhere. Engineering brick as advised. Ground anchors/stainless m20 threaded bar etc, etc can be resin bonded into slab with the engineering brick install. Timber soleplate then on top, your outer cladding/covering then overlapping the top brick an inch or two down on the outside.
Its your build.. Good luck.
@@robertoduranos5196 How does the winter get in? Passmoores garage company positions the garage on the edge of the slab and feather edge overhangs it so no chance of water getting underneath the timber
@@GeorgeAusters The concrete slab wasn't level in few places and rushed, sole plate went down level and packed up slightly to allow for this unevenness. This allowed water ingress quite easily even though it was sealed but obviously any overhang was compromised. There was also water coming in around the garage door bottom corners and soaking up the inner framework.
Regarding when to cut the control/expansion joint I'd do it now then leave to fully cure, clean it out fullly, then mastic it.
Fair play George good job look forward to see the finish
Thanks Brendan 👊🏻
Great, you deserve this. And so do I. Hopefully in a year I will have something of a similar size 😊
Nice!
beautiful lawn George! 11:39
@@FiscalWoofer Did you watch the previous part of the garage build? I seeded this lawn during that
It’s come out a total treat!
That’s a fair old slab put down there. Looks a great job. I enjoyed doing my slab and I only had 2 cubic meters.
Sure is… 28 cubes in total 😁
Well done George looks like it’s coming on nicely, good progress so far! Looking forward to seeing the next instalment.
Cheers Dave.. So glad the most difficult part is done👍🏻
George! I can’t wait for you to educate me on fixing my car from your beautiful Garage!!
I can't wait also!
Nice work mate looking good 🤩
@@richardnorris3095 Cheers Richard!
Looking great so far, good luck
Thanks Keith👌🏻
Job well done.
🙌🏻
What advice did you get on an expansion joint ? As it’s under planning and building control I would ask when the BCO visits. You can always saw cut one in but with the building sitting on it and a car lift I would double check, but great work, to have that facility at the bottom of your garden is a dream, look forward to following the progress.
I’m thinking of putting one where the internal wall will go, didn’t really want any to be visable
@@GeorgeAustersanything reinforced over 60sqm should have an expansion joint but with the thickness you have poured you might be ok I wouldn’t worry too much but get some advise. Everyone has an opinion, right ! People need to remember you’re doing this yourself, it doesn’t need to be perfect but it will definitely be to a high standard. So don’t let nitpicking get you down.
Hi George. That is some slab, no mistake. I did mine in 2 pours on the advice of a professional, and it is only 30 sq. m. I always intended to screed my base as the finish was not brilliant, but found out that that was quite a major job if I wanted a coating that would withstand jacks, so ended up leaving it. The damp-proof membrane looks suspect to me, but I'm far from an expert!
Yeah my finish is pretty smooth as is. They said I can sand it before painting if I wish. I'm not too concerned about damp as the concrete is so thick and the surrounding ground will be free draining.
Well done George 👍
Cheers Steve!
Look forward to the garage build vlogs
Have you seen all of them up to this point?
Ya couldn’t break that slab tracking on it in a 20 tonne excavator mate. I know I do it all day long. Top job pal
Haha good stuff.. Don't imagine i'll ever have anything above 3 tons on it to be fair!
Would it have been viable to insulate the pad? Just thinking about condensation on cold days
Too much hassle and cost really. It’s only a garage so doesn’t need to be as warm as a house. The walls and roof will be insulated
@GeorgeAusters
I can't wait for this to be finished, and hopefully, I can pinch a few tips 🤗
Nice work, George! Definitely watch a Tom Hardy movie called 'Locke'. You'll relate.
Best for the New Year!
Cheers mate, happy new year to you too!
Coming from a concrete finisher the finish on that is poor but i suppose if your putting some sort of flooring on top of it, it can be hidden
What is so poor about it? It’s pretty smooth, especially without being floated
@@GeorgeAusters I think he means it could be more even most likely, I'd probably have power floated that volume to get +/-1mm tollerance, but it all adds cost.
Looks class mate! Have you been able to get planning or doing it under permitted development? I can’t wait to be able to do my own!
Needed planning, watch the series from the start and I explain everything👍🏻
That's a huge slab of concrete, won't it crack without expansion joints?
@@charliecoco2115 Probably yes, I mean I can’t see any big cracks after a week or so
@@GeorgeAustersit will crack due to expansion, I’d cut a groove in the centre for the crack to form on the fill with mastic, the rebar will limit the movement but not remove it. Super happy to see you cracking this one big G!
When does it usually crack? How long after pouring?
@@GeorgeAusters Angle grind some relief cuts about 10 ft apart the whole width and depth of the concrete, fill with either bitumen / mastic or rubber or plastic strips. It may be weeks or months but it definitely WILL crack in multiple places if you leave it as is.
@@charliecoco2115 See I keep hearing different opinions.. Most people say it will be fine with the thickness I have, reinforcement etc
Ya don't want to sand the concrete George.
Go over it with some self levelling compound after the roof goes on.
Perfect finish 💯😊👍👌
I'm a builder George.
Will a self levelling compound be safe to drive on?
@GeorgeAusters Absolutely George.
As long as you paint it over with Unibond neat from the tin first.
No dust 💯👌👍😊
The cat left some concrete evidence behind.
😂
Just can’t resist - not a catastrophe…doh!
That is one piss wet concrete pour, I bet it has dropped 10mm as the water leaves the slab…good luck with the dust proofer…😮
Yeah I think a wetter mix makes it easier to level and get a smoother finish👍🏻
Can you break the cost down?
The cost for what exactly?
Concrete itself, labour for pouring it.
Concrete was around £4200 and to lay it was £600
Wow £4200 that's dearer than I anticipated. Is that just one lorry load?
Is the foundation deep enough to have a 2 post lift?
@@GeorgeAusters Wow that labour is so cheap! Perhaps explains why its not fully level. I'd have spent a bit more leveling at this stage so as to avoid anything but a clean down and epoxy top coat later.