Andy - I would like to politely refute one assertion you made. You said that pre-built quads are for folks who have already know how to build drones but don't have the time to do so. I have tried to build a couple myself but always get stuck in the same place - connecting the VTX and/or Receiver to the FC. Which pads do I use? Which wires can be omitted? You get the point. However, since all that is done when I get a pre-built, I don't have to figure that out and can fly. Then, when it breaks, I just replace the broken parts with functional ones and use the same pads they already were attached to. Bottom line is, just because you didn't build it (or others like it) doesn't mean that repairing damaged ones is impossible or even harder. In fact, in some cases, it's much easier. Thanks for your thorough reviews and for reading this.
WebGuyMike I'll tell you which pads you have to use, If u still have the parts! J exactly tell you what to do, just send me photos to my email (I'll tell you the email as soon as I know you're interested)
Time Stamps 0:00 Intro 1:56 Hawk Sport Overview 4:46 Lipos (Important) 7:35 Hawk Sport Differences 8:10 Hawk Pro Overview 9:11 Hawk Pro Los Night Flight 11:03 Hawk Pro Continued 16:35 Left in the box 16:58 Hawk Pro FPV + Speed 20:25 Hawk Sport FPV + Speed
I'd love to see a back to back test of the old vs new Hawk 5. Just to see how well the old one stands up tune/performance wise compared to the new one (not just top speed).
On most tracks there is opportunity to accelerate out of every turn and only one chance to reach maximum speed down the straight therefore fastest lap times can be gained by slower quads with better acceleration.
So just a couple hundred MAh more would keep it from rocketing into the air on arming? I'm sure I'm not alone when thinking it's a BF config or tune issue.
Reduce the d term max from 40 to 30 for both pitch and roll and it will sort it for a 1050mah Didn't put it in the vid as emax say not to touch the tune. And do so at your own risk :-)
Hi! Thanks for all the great content!😀 When I use a bottom mounted battery I often use some sort of guard such as the carbon plate with the thick foam pads or a 3D printed TPU battery guard (files on Thingiverse). The battery is still susceptible to damage, but it definitely helps when landing or hitting the ground.
DRL sim has a drag racing track, I think it is called Straight Line. We race on it occasionally to test our craziest builds and it's fun, but you can only do it for a few minutes before it starts to get boring and then we switch back to regular racing. With that said, quad drag racing would really push the technology in crazy ways and I would like to see that happen.
Im a racer and ordered the sport 6s! I don't need those fancy leds that add weight and the difference between pro and sport is only around 5mph! (10mph diffrence between sport 4s and pro 6s = 5mph sport 6s)! I recommend it with the 11mah gnb 6s battery!!
I personally think that Emax pro are the sexiest quads out there, besides my Diatone, so I don't think Emax need to change anything ...they are building some awesome quads, stepping up their game...cheers!
Don't suppose you've tried the betaflight default pids have you? The fact that it shoots to the moon when you have a battery that's a few grams lighter is terrifying and almost unbelievable!
For a starter I would always recommend a Acro model or one with a battery strapped on the top and defiantly not something that is a high speed craft. I like the idea of the leds and back you up on orientation colours.
I'm confused about the possible flyaway issue.Why would it sky rocket on arming, regardless of battery choice? Are the rpm's at idle so high that it's above the hovering rpm for a lighter battery?
Hey andy love your reviews ive learned allot from you thanks i have a ? For you if you have time i bought the hawk pro 4s i want to move up to 6s can i just buy the pulsar 1700 kv motors and the rest of the drone is ready to go i believe ?
@@AndyRCchannel There is a MASSIVE difference in speed, grip and durability. I've tested them for last 10 months. The 3.0 is a little less responsive due to the weight, but as a racing propeller, that's the absolute best choice. For freestyle the 2.6 and the 2.8 are great options. I still use the 2.8 for freestyle.
Hawk pro , Q, Caddx Ratel has the telemetry Green wire and red 5V, Black G, yellow Video, does that mean it has Camera Controller setup? Because it has the Telemetry wire solder to the FC? If not why have the green telemetry wire solder to the FC? Thanks
Awesome review! These things look really awesome! Literally the only thing I could possibly critique is the use of M2 screws on the stack. I can understand why they did it though with it being 20x20 and all. Other than that, they look perfect for racing!
Just got mine. Thanks for saving me the aggravation of having a flyaway from the improper battery. Quick question if you don’t mind, where can I get a mount for my GoPro session5 for the pro version? Or are there just mounts for the GoPro hero only?
Awesome video! If if I paid you could you walk me through some basic stuff. I’m a newb but already obsessed and having trouble unlocking the vtx on my hawk pro and binding. Any help would be awesome I’m just ready to get flying with my hawk pro! I’ve been flying the tiny hawk 2 freestyle and just received the pro today and couldn’t figure it out! I’ll pay for your time and knowledge or to be pointed in the direction! I just wanna get flying!!!
I bought the 1700kv and the 1100mah 6s battery but when I plug in the battery and arm it the motors go full speed and even if the throttle is all the way down do u know what might be the problem I have the x9 lite control with xjt module
I really love the Hawk 5 with 6" arms and bi-blades. I stocked up three of them. BUT none of tghese analog BNF kwads compares to the DJI kwads I have built. I am afraid DJI has really spoiled me. Having to deal with separate camera and RX AND VTX is just too annoying .
Chicken and egg Andy. If you buy an RTF and love flying youre naturally going to put in the time to learn how everything works and probably end up building your own. But if you lose interest and decide that flying is not your thing then no point learning to build. I suppose it's just about what each person's end game is all about.
Sadly not. People don't wanna learn and want everything given to them on a plate. This is coming from someone who gets 100 messages a day asking why my quad won't arm when there are 10s of videos and resources with the answers
I respectfully must disagree. Building an FPV Kwad is not that difficult but setting up the "systems" and modes etc is something after 5 years flying I still struggle with. If BNF kwads were not available there would be very few people in this hobby. That's like saying everyone should tune their own kwads ! If there were not stock Betaflight settings most people would absolutely quit ! I keep a 50/50 ratio of BNF and kwads I build. I do that because I really EN JOY soldering and trying to solve the technical issues. Not everyone is into this ..
Great review Andy, thanks. What do you think about running the “4S” version on a 1300 mAh 5S with a throttle cut? Is there plenty of room under the hood for a FrSky XM+ if I were to purchase the PNP? Cheers.
AndyRC right, found out the hard way, brand new QX7 ACCESS with R9M 2019 needless to say no D8, and a beautiful Hawk pro 6s in the box 😢 so now I’m waiting on a exchange and return for the QX7s ACCST with Hall gimbals (why not) then maybe I can finally bind this damn thing 😖😣😤
lmao i got an 1800 mah 6s. im new to the hobby but countless hours of practice on the sim. im into more model planes as i love 3d, but new to the drone world
Biggest difference Pro- Pulsar Motors, Emax branded Caddex Ratel camera. Sport- Eco motors, Caddex eos camera. The small $ difference is worth to buy the pro.
Also, for the 4S guys, buy the 4s version (2400kv), and you'll be able to run 5s & 6s by just putting an output limit. If you get the 6s (1700kv), you can't stimulate higher kV and will be stuck with 6s.
Andy - I would like to politely refute one assertion you made. You said that pre-built quads are for folks who have already know how to build drones but don't have the time to do so. I have tried to build a couple myself but always get stuck in the same place - connecting the VTX and/or Receiver to the FC. Which pads do I use? Which wires can be omitted? You get the point. However, since all that is done when I get a pre-built, I don't have to figure that out and can fly. Then, when it breaks, I just replace the broken parts with functional ones and use the same pads they already were attached to. Bottom line is, just because you didn't build it (or others like it) doesn't mean that repairing damaged ones is impossible or even harder. In fact, in some cases, it's much easier. Thanks for your thorough reviews and for reading this.
WebGuyMike I'll tell you which pads you have to use, If u still have the parts! J exactly tell you what to do, just send me photos to my email (I'll tell you the email as soon as I know you're interested)
Time Stamps
0:00 Intro
1:56 Hawk Sport Overview
4:46 Lipos (Important)
7:35 Hawk Sport Differences
8:10 Hawk Pro Overview
9:11 Hawk Pro Los Night Flight
11:03 Hawk Pro Continued
16:35 Left in the box
16:58 Hawk Pro FPV + Speed
20:25 Hawk Sport FPV + Speed
My first quad was a hawk 5. I still have it. I'm a huge emax fan. Good all around value. Thanks for the review.
Still ripping my hawk 5, it’s an amazing model.
I'd love to see a back to back test of the old vs new Hawk 5. Just to see how well the old one stands up tune/performance wise compared to the new one (not just top speed).
On most tracks there is opportunity to accelerate out of every turn and only one chance to reach maximum speed down the straight therefore fastest lap times can be gained by slower quads with better acceleration.
Ordered the pro! Can't wait until it gets here!
Great review Andy! thank you for taking the time to put together a highly detailed review.
Cheers Brandon
So just a couple hundred MAh more would keep it from rocketing into the air on arming? I'm sure I'm not alone when thinking it's a BF config or tune issue.
Yea, I have one on the way and my fly or die goto 6s is the raceline 1050. Maybe we could talk andy into do one of his magical pid tunes?
Reduce the d term max from 40 to 30 for both pitch and roll and it will sort it for a 1050mah Didn't put it in the vid as emax say not to touch the tune. And do so at your own risk :-)
@Yougotnomilk I use a 1550mah 120c 4s and have never experienced that.
I was thinking about the sport but the camera is so much better on the pro.. Thank you for showing the difference.
Loving the design of this one. Heck I’m still flying my hawk 5 that’s almost 2 years old now lol. Emax def making some good ones.
Hi! Thanks for all the great content!😀
When I use a bottom mounted battery I often use some sort of guard such as the carbon plate with the thick foam pads or a 3D printed TPU battery guard (files on Thingiverse). The battery is still susceptible to damage, but it definitely helps when landing or hitting the ground.
Excuse my ignorance Andy, but how did a smaller batter make the quad fly off on arm?
DRL sim has a drag racing track, I think it is called Straight Line. We race on it occasionally to test our craziest builds and it's fun, but you can only do it for a few minutes before it starts to get boring and then we switch back to regular racing. With that said, quad drag racing would really push the technology in crazy ways and I would like to see that happen.
Im a racer and ordered the sport 6s! I don't need those fancy leds that add weight and the difference between pro and sport is only around 5mph! (10mph diffrence between sport 4s and pro 6s = 5mph sport 6s)! I recommend it with the 11mah gnb 6s battery!!
You're a legend. Alot of great info from this video alone.
I personally think that Emax pro are the sexiest quads out there, besides my Diatone, so I don't think Emax need to change anything ...they are building some awesome quads, stepping up their game...cheers!
Great flying and review, Andy!!! 😃
Really awesome models! 😃
Don't suppose you've tried the betaflight default pids have you? The fact that it shoots to the moon when you have a battery that's a few grams lighter is terrifying and almost unbelievable!
love the led's under the motor, what a great idea.
For a starter I would always recommend a Acro model or one with a battery strapped on the top and defiantly not something that is a high speed craft. I like the idea of the leds and back you up on orientation colours.
Did you mean acro? As apposed to a freestyle vs race quad.
@@alanjones4747 My strange terminology, yep freestyle. I stand corrected.
I'm confused about the possible flyaway issue.Why would it sky rocket on arming, regardless of battery choice? Are the rpm's at idle so high that it's above the hovering rpm for a lighter battery?
Hey andy love your reviews ive learned allot from you thanks i have a ? For you if you have time i bought the hawk pro 4s i want to move up to 6s can i just buy the pulsar 1700 kv motors and the rest of the drone is ready to go i believe ?
Wow that Ratel camera is amazing. Any idea which lens option they have on It? I'm assuming the 1.6mm because that's a veey wide angle.
its the 2.1 cheers
You should do the speed run with the Scimitar 5x3.0x3. They're the racing prop. Way faster and A LOT more durable.
iv tested them all and speed wise and durability wise there is very little difference. I think the 30 got more prop wash
@@AndyRCchannel There is a MASSIVE difference in speed, grip and durability. I've tested them for last 10 months. The 3.0 is a little less responsive due to the weight, but as a racing propeller, that's the absolute best choice. For freestyle the 2.6 and the 2.8 are great options.
I still use the 2.8 for freestyle.
I think you could change the idle speed in the configuration tab
Hawk pro , Q, Caddx Ratel has the telemetry Green wire and red 5V, Black G, yellow Video, does that mean it has Camera Controller setup? Because it has the Telemetry wire solder to the FC? If not why have the green telemetry wire solder to the FC? Thanks
Hi, ONLY wonder what is the BEST FPV Google to use on this PRO Drone ? PS: I'm NEW too this so I only wonder of your guides , please....
how do you bind it to the tarrnis lite the bind_rx doesnt work
Hi...will a 6 channel transmitter fly one of those? I'm a plane guy, but I'm seriously considering getting a race drone.
Thanks!
Chris
For comparison, is this Emax Hawk Pro 6s or the Nazgul5 6s better?
Nazgul is a freestyle model hawk is a race copter. They cannot be compared together
@@AndyRCchannel thanks Andy, I'm new to fpv and I'm just learning everything I can. Still trying to figure everything out.
Very curious about that night vison on the x4.
I have the 1700 pro
Will 4s work on it .
Still learning won't b any punch outs low angle flying for now lol
I have a taranis x7. Bought the emax sport and it didn't come with a receiver what would you suggest. Thanks
Awesome reviews of the EMAX Drones! I have a n old Spektrum DX 8 Gen 1, will the EMAX Hawk series Drones bind to the transmitter? Thank you.
Awesome review! These things look really awesome! Literally the only thing I could possibly critique is the use of M2 screws on the stack. I can understand why they did it though with it being 20x20 and all. Other than that, they look perfect for racing!
Just got mine. Thanks for saving me the aggravation of having a flyaway from the improper battery. Quick question if you don’t mind, where can I get a mount for my GoPro session5 for the pro version? Or are there just mounts for the GoPro hero only?
Hello, hope you're well. Just wondering is the Sport 4S model alot faster than the Babyhawk pro R 4inch?
Awesome video! If if I paid you could you walk me through some basic stuff. I’m a newb but already obsessed and having trouble unlocking the vtx on my hawk pro and binding. Any help would be awesome I’m just ready to get flying with my hawk pro! I’ve been flying the tiny hawk 2 freestyle and just received the pro today and couldn’t figure it out! I’ll pay for your time and knowledge or to be pointed in the direction! I just wanna get flying!!!
I have a basic spectrum Dxe transmitter. Would it bind to this?
I bought the 1700kv and the 1100mah 6s battery but when I plug in the battery and arm it the motors go full speed and even if the throttle is all the way down do u know what might be the problem I have the x9 lite control with xjt module
Are those Hawk 5 arms
maybe you should do a vid about transitioning from 4s to 6s, ie which 6s motor does well on 4s etc for a given weight
I really love the Hawk 5 with 6" arms and bi-blades. I stocked up three of them. BUT none of tghese analog BNF kwads compares to the DJI kwads I have built. I am afraid DJI has really spoiled me. Having to deal with separate camera and RX AND VTX is just too annoying .
Hai Andy.. if not bother you, can i know your Betaflight Rate ?
Im really love the way your Rate was..
You can use one of them to get the diatone out of the tree. What could possibly go wrong?
It will start to look like a Christmas tree decorated with quads that's up all year round? Lol
Chicken and egg Andy. If you buy an RTF and love flying youre naturally going to put in the time to learn how everything works and probably end up building your own. But if you lose interest and decide that flying is not your thing then no point learning to build. I suppose it's just about what each person's end game is all about.
Sadly not. People don't wanna learn and want everything given to them on a plate. This is coming from someone who gets 100 messages a day asking why my quad won't arm when there are 10s of videos and resources with the answers
I respectfully must disagree. Building an FPV Kwad is not that difficult but setting up the "systems" and modes etc is something after 5 years flying I still struggle with. If BNF kwads were not available there would be very few people in this hobby. That's like saying everyone should tune their own kwads ! If there were not stock Betaflight settings most people would absolutely quit ! I keep a 50/50 ratio of BNF and kwads I build. I do that because I really EN JOY soldering and trying to solve the technical issues. Not everyone is into this ..
Awesome motor LEDs
Quad drag racing...that would be intriguing! 😀
Amazing Information Andy and a fantastic video, loved every minute, Big sub and liked bro 👍😁👍
Great review Andy, thanks. What do you think about running the “4S” version on a 1300 mAh 5S with a throttle cut? Is there plenty of room under the hood for a FrSky XM+ if I were to purchase the PNP? Cheers.
Sure you can do that. I actually tried it but without the throttle cut the motors can still take it but the lipo will die
EMAX
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GoPro Mount: bit.ly/2nZpVNV
BG: Coupon BGHAWK
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Emax
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Can we upgrad this drone using Dji digital fpv? Please advise. Thank you.
No
Great review Andy will my jumper t8sg run the d8 frsky receiver ?
Yes it will
Thanks Andy 👌👍
Both look really good. Thanks for the vid.
I'm running 4s 1300 mAh on my original hawk 5 with the 2206 motors. Should I be running 1500?
No 2206 1300 is fine
I bought the 4s 2400kv model, am I able to run 6s?
in theroy yes. but i think it would smoke things very quickly unless you put a limiter on there
Quick question, being a D8 receiver, can Frsky transmitters running LBT firmware be set to D8?
If it's not the 2019 edition it can yes
AndyRC right, found out the hard way, brand new QX7 ACCESS with R9M 2019 needless to say no D8, and a beautiful Hawk pro 6s in the box 😢 so now I’m waiting on a exchange and return for the QX7s ACCST with Hall gimbals (why not) then maybe I can finally bind this damn thing 😖😣😤
can someone tell what radio transmitter i need for this ?
Frsky
Thank you Andy.
nice testing mate!
lmao i got an 1800 mah 6s. im new to the hobby but countless hours of practice on the sim. im into more model planes as i love 3d, but new to the drone world
Hahaaa i just bought a hawk 5 like 3 weeks ago but the new looks nice :D
i use 1300 120c a beast so fast
Buy 3 BNF... Don't buy a build kit. Fix two that break. Have one that flys.
Very helpful! Thank you
Biggest difference
Pro- Pulsar Motors, Emax branded Caddex Ratel camera.
Sport- Eco motors, Caddex eos camera.
The small $ difference is worth to buy the pro.
Also, for the 4S guys, buy the 4s version (2400kv), and you'll be able to run 5s & 6s by just putting an output limit. If you get the 6s (1700kv), you can't stimulate higher kV and will be stuck with 6s.
Just don't lose them in a tree🤔😁👍👍
Great vid cheers
Great vid
Great Video Thnx👌🏻
I woukd love to drag race i prefer jt actyally