Hi Bennie, glad this helped. Sorry it took you so long to solve the problem. I think I spent about 8 weeks trying to figure it out - and actually found a random forum that helped clue me in. Good luck with your install.
yar, more than likely. You would need to think about holes for screws to mount the speakers - you could make an adapter plate which should save a few extra drilled holes in your doors. More info on speaker sizes on mazdas247 dotcom thread 8940 Speaker-Sizes-Harnesses-and-Kits-of-all-Mazdas I haven't found any info on specific guides to install 6x9s, only info is to replace as I have or replace with a component set. I'd recommend 5x7s or 6x8s to make it a lot easier :)
real nice set up. you know how you replaced the 2 front speakers with the new 6x9 rockford speakers.. did you change the back ones too? and are they also 6x9 speakers ?
ohhhh okaay i understand!, i honestly didnt know they made 6x8s speakers. cause im really keen on changing the speakers on my 2003 Mazda 6 sports luxury series 1. but if i really did want 6x9s, will i have to cut the hole bigger to make the speakers fit ?
@LATINO850 - I replaced front and rear with 6 x 8s (not 6x9s), but also note that this is a NON Bose system. I did quite a bit of research before making the replacements - so as not to be dissapointed. All the info I found said that 6x9 would not fit without modification, but 6x8 were ok, so I replaced with 6x8. The official size in the manual is 5.5x7.5.
Hey, I didn't have the stock amp in my model, which probably saved me some extra trouble. When I was doing my reasearch before the install I did come across quite a few "howtos" regarding the stock amps. I assume you're running RCA from the loc to amp. Try another source (laptop,mp3 player) to check that you're getting sound through the amp to the speakers. If so, then next would be to check the locs &the head unit separately. Try a different source into the loc, &try speakers direct to the hu.
Haha. I keep it on the passenger seat 😜🤣 Seriously though I can easily take them out to get to the spare wheel. Factored that in as part of the install 😊 Take them out for MOT each year and any time I need more luggage space.
Hey there, have you removed the factory amp completely before you installed your amp? I have a 2003 Mazda6 series 1 vehicle, but I have a series 2 head unit like the one you have. And I have no sound coming out whatsoever. I haven't tried your exact method. I used a line output converter instead. Im getting power to my amp but no sound once again. Any ideas? I'd appreciate your help. Thank you
Well good luck with your mazda six mine just randomnly started throwing crazy codes goes into 3rd gear when put in drive and everything loved the handling of the car but its crappy id say computer just went bad gonna give muscle a shot this time
On the back of the head unit. There are two harnesses. The big one is the car stereo harness. What is the small one which attached on the plate? My car is same but i cannot know what it is.
+Huy Nguyen I'm not 100% sure - was a while ago when I did this. I did look in the workshop manual and it looks like 1 harness (the bigger one) is the speaker outputs, steering controls. The other smaller one is the power and inputs. You should be able to find a pdf workshop manual for free online (I think I got mine in a Mazda forum - but can't remember which one - sorry!)
Hi Eddy. Wow I'm trying to remember 🤔 I think I did it from inside the car by the peddles. I'll have to watch again to jolt my memory. I'll get back to you...
@@eddycalvert7138 around 2:35 in the clip. Bolts inside the car near the brake and clutch. A bit blurry but hopefully enough for you to match and find it in your car. Good luck 💪
Found them from a reputable seller on ebay. Search for something like "mini connectors". Look for the right size and style/layout to match your requirements. I used 8 way 6.3mm behind the head unit.
Hi Daniel, I ended up using the anchor point for the rear seat belt by the left back door. I filed the grounding point and the seat belt bracket to improve grounding. It's not really advisable to use the seat belt anchor point but I did find that I could still get a firm torque on the bolt to ensure the seat belt is properly anchored. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi Carlo, sorry, can't remember of the top of my head - was so long ago. I'll try have a look and go over my notes if I can find them. Will let you know if I find anything.
Remove the screws as @7:10. The use both hands, 1 to grab on the vents and 1 at the bottom. Needs a firm pull to get the head unit unclipped from the dash.
Tomas Mikula Unfortunately in this model the head unit does not have a "remote turn on" which means I had to find one of the feeds out of the head unit with a constant power source. This does cause some issues with ground loop noise which I haven't resolved yet, but the only way that I could get a remote turn on for the amps. If you refer to the workshop manual you may be able to find the right colour code for your car - otherwise use a power meter to test which wires put out 12v when the ignition is on and 0v when the ignition is off.
Why not just open the door and go between the fender and down the plastic panel by the door forget the firewall trouble... And ground the amp on and good bolt in the trunk the best is right above the tire behind the padding to the strut bolts
Chris Atkins Thanks for the suggestion. Did do this in my previous car. I didn't want to do the same thing this time and running the cable that way poses it's own challenges (at least in my model).
This should help identify the source of the problem, or at least confirm amp ok, speakers ok, loc ok, hu ok. If this is the case then you'll need to double check all the wiring. Can't think of anything else at the moment.
here i am.. 8 years later, struggling my arse off to get a cable through that grommet behind the blower unit.. thanks for this
Hi Bennie, glad this helped. Sorry it took you so long to solve the problem. I think I spent about 8 weeks trying to figure it out - and actually found a random forum that helped clue me in. Good luck with your install.
I was under my hood and under my dashboard for 5 hours trying to figure out how to get my power cable through the firewall. This video saved my life.
Great help mate, Cheers
Glad it helped 😎👍
video was very helpfull. Trying to install a sub and couldnt for the life of me find where to run the power to the amp from in my mazda. thanks!
yar, more than likely. You would need to think about holes for screws to mount the speakers - you could make an adapter plate which should save a few extra drilled holes in your doors. More info on speaker sizes on mazdas247 dotcom thread 8940 Speaker-Sizes-Harnesses-and-Kits-of-all-Mazdas
I haven't found any info on specific guides to install 6x9s, only info is to replace as I have or replace with a component set. I'd recommend 5x7s or 6x8s to make it a lot easier :)
real nice set up.
you know how you replaced the 2 front speakers with the new 6x9 rockford speakers..
did you change the back ones too? and are they also 6x9 speakers ?
does anyone know how I would install a after market radio in my 2003 mazda 6 with bose and still use my bose amp
ohhhh okaay i understand!, i honestly didnt know they made 6x8s speakers.
cause im really keen on changing the speakers on my 2003 Mazda 6 sports luxury series 1.
but if i really did want 6x9s, will i have to cut the hole bigger to make the speakers fit ?
@LATINO850 - I replaced front and rear with 6 x 8s (not 6x9s), but also note that this is a NON Bose system. I did quite a bit of research before making the replacements - so as not to be dissapointed. All the info I found said that 6x9 would not fit without modification, but 6x8 were ok, so I replaced with 6x8. The official size in the manual is 5.5x7.5.
Hey, I didn't have the stock amp in my model, which probably saved me some extra trouble. When I was doing my reasearch before the install I did come across quite a few "howtos" regarding the stock amps. I assume you're running RCA from the loc to amp. Try another source (laptop,mp3 player) to check that you're getting sound through the amp to the speakers. If so, then next would be to check the locs &the head unit separately. Try a different source into the loc, &try speakers direct to the hu.
How do you get to the spare wheel under all those speakers?
Haha. I keep it on the passenger seat 😜🤣 Seriously though I can easily take them out to get to the spare wheel. Factored that in as part of the install 😊 Take them out for MOT each year and any time I need more luggage space.
good video thanks
Thank you
Hey there, have you removed the factory amp completely before you installed your amp? I have a 2003 Mazda6 series 1 vehicle, but I have a series 2 head unit like the one you have. And I have no sound coming out whatsoever. I haven't tried your exact method. I used a line output converter instead. Im getting power to my amp but no sound once again. Any ideas? I'd appreciate your help. Thank you
Well good luck with your mazda six mine just randomnly started throwing crazy codes goes into 3rd gear when put in drive and everything loved the handling of the car but its crappy id say computer just went bad gonna give muscle a shot this time
Chris Atkins Chris, sorry you're having problems with your 6. Hope you manage to get it sorted.
Where did you source the connectors from to tie into the stock wiring up front?
On the back of the head unit. There are two harnesses. The big one is the car stereo harness. What is the small one which attached on the plate? My car is same but i cannot know what it is.
+Huy Nguyen I'm not 100% sure - was a while ago when I did this. I did look in the workshop manual and it looks like 1 harness (the bigger one) is the speaker outputs, steering controls. The other smaller one is the power and inputs. You should be able to find a pdf workshop manual for free online (I think I got mine in a Mazda forum - but can't remember which one - sorry!)
this help so much thanks man
Glad it helped, and thx for the comment :)
Is a aftermarket radio required to have a sub and amp?
No, aftermarket radio not required. Please watch the video, it covers tips for installing amp without aftermarket hu 😊
Hey mate, how did you unscrew the bolts to get through the firewall, I can't find them in the engine bay
Hi Eddy. Wow I'm trying to remember 🤔 I think I did it from inside the car by the peddles. I'll have to watch again to jolt my memory. I'll get back to you...
zimhonkey thanks so much mate
@@eddycalvert7138 around 2:35 in the clip. Bolts inside the car near the brake and clutch. A bit blurry but hopefully enough for you to match and find it in your car. Good luck 💪
zimhonkey just got the cable through, thanks heaps 👍
Forgot to mention that the speakers I used are RF P1683C
Found them from a reputable seller on ebay. Search for something like "mini connectors". Look for the right size and style/layout to match your requirements. I used 8 way 6.3mm behind the head unit.
Where do I wire the ground from the amp?
Hi Daniel, I ended up using the anchor point for the rear seat belt by the left back door. I filed the grounding point and the seat belt bracket to improve grounding. It's not really advisable to use the seat belt anchor point but I did find that I could still get a firm torque on the bolt to ensure the seat belt is properly anchored. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Can you tell me the color cable where you put the bleu hilevel cable on?
Hi Carlo, sorry, can't remember of the top of my head - was so long ago. I'll try have a look and go over my notes if I can find them. Will let you know if I find anything.
I hope you can find it.
I search every where but I Can't find it anywhere.
thank you a lot for checking it for me.
Removed the bolt on the side but now how do I pull the head unit out???
Remove the screws as @7:10. The use both hands, 1 to grab on the vents and 1 at the bottom. Needs a firm pull to get the head unit unclipped from the dash.
Hi how did u get remote to switching amp?
Tomas Mikula Unfortunately in this model the head unit does not have a "remote turn on" which means I had to find one of the feeds out of the head unit with a constant power source. This does cause some issues with ground loop noise which I haven't resolved yet, but the only way that I could get a remote turn on for the amps. If you refer to the workshop manual you may be able to find the right colour code for your car - otherwise use a power meter to test which wires put out 12v when the ignition is on and 0v when the ignition is off.
Why not just open the door and go between the fender and down the plastic panel by the door forget the firewall trouble... And ground the amp on and good bolt in the trunk the best is right above the tire behind the padding to the strut bolts
Chris Atkins Thanks for the suggestion. Did do this in my previous car. I didn't want to do the same thing this time and running the cable that way poses it's own challenges (at least in my model).
This should help identify the source of the problem, or at least confirm amp ok, speakers ok, loc ok, hu ok. If this is the case then you'll need to double check all the wiring. Can't think of anything else at the moment.
And the remote cabel?
Hi Carlo, can't remember, this was a while ago. I'll try see if I can find out and let you know :)
Yh