Not sure if this was recent but they've included basically a little L shaped plastic 'fix' you can slide behind the brake assembly when you're re-aligning it with the pin that's thinner than the bolt so it essentially levers it in as you slide it back, thus avoiding the motor cable. Was super easy!
I just followed this and then wondered what the "L" was for so I then looked at the instruction... Worked out but serves me right for not checking the instructions first....
Once again your tutorial makes the difference. Easy installation after watching this although that final bar isnt half tricky at the end but all done with no damages incurred. You are invaluable to the community Will. love ya brother.
Installing my performance kit today and had to re-watch your video :) , thank you soooooooooo much for showing EVERY step! update: finished, took about 45 minutes, even with you showing how, getting that darn pin in was still a pain in the butt., thanks again!
Thank you for this video! I recently got my kit, and they are starting to include a new "L" shaped plastic piece to help protect the motor wire .. but your tips still made this process a lot easier than it would have been otherwise ... cheers!
Gosh.. After reading your comment i used the L shaped plastic piece in order to lift the thing.. Finally after trying 1 hour i got the pin into the break again with ease xD
Really appreciate the videos. So far, have used your videos to help set up my TR160, and installing the BPK. Without them, I am sure I would still be doing one or the other. Saved me tons of headaches. Just wanted to say “Thanks” and keep up the good work, it is appreciated!
I had the damper when I first got my V3 pedals but since fitting the performance kit I have never put it back on. Best €30 I have spent on my sim racing kit 👍
Yep definitely makes a huge difference. I can feel a slight difference with the Damper kit but definitely not enough to justify the cost when you already have the performance kit installed. But more on that in the next video.
@@boostedmedia Has the standard configuration also this "squishyness" of the PU foam? Because I dont like my beakpedal to be soft at first. I like it being hard and responsive from the beginning.
@@chillaah2000 I've seen people cut a 3rd red or green elastomer to the size of the PU and use that instead for no initial squishiness. Cut it slightly smaller since it won't compress as much
For those with the INVERTED pedals version: This was a much larger job!! Since it has the damper pre-installed and the opposite rotation there is VERY little space to work with, and cables are even shorter! If it wasn't for the HUGE difference it makes, I would not have done this. This video still helps a a bunch with tips like the "allen-key" as a lever etc, but be prepared for a bigger job.
@@JackRLong12 I'm not 100% sure, I think I did disconnect the dampener to give me a bit more room to work. Without it you are very limited with space and I think I was afraid of damaging a wire or something if I didn't. Good luck!
@ChristopherB- yeah thanks man. Love the pedals but can tell it needs lube. I got the pun out but with the damper installed, I couldn't get the piston out so wanted to ask. Thanks again!
Thanks for this video! Just purchased myself a set of these pedals with the performance kit (using your affiliate link). I had read stories of users who snagged the vibration motor cable that made me sit up and take notice, but I gave your vid a good watch before I even unboxed my set and from there it was a painless and quick install following this. Thanks again. Now back to go practice, practice, practice and hopefully see some lap times going down in the near future.
Hi Will, I guess you had already find out by now as the video is 2 years old. Just to let the new viewers know a trick here. The reason the pin does not gets back in easily is the elastomers pushes the cradle much lower than the holes. Using the L shaped spacer while inserting the cradle back does the trick. The canal in cradle and the holes are align instantly. It only took 10 secs in my first trial. Putting the cradle back was much harder for me as i did not want to dent my brand new toy with a screw driver.
Hey Will, great content as usual. I just purchased the v3 brake performance kit via your link along with the v3 inverted to go with it. Keep doing what you doin son!
Getting a full setup with V2.5 base and V3 pedal I did order the brake kit and watched a few vids re installation and review of the product I must say I found your video to be by far the best to follow easy and to the point. They seem to have added a tool to protect the wire whilst installing the mod I assume this wasn’t included when you did the video. Great vid I will have this on again in the background when I install mine thanks man
Found out why some people use a hammer. Pin for accelerator has a little machined bit for grub screw, Brake did not & was burred from grub screw. Silicone spray & a few taps got it out. Smoothed of bure ran pin though with silicon spray over & over until nice & free. Hope all go's well from hear. Love your stuff Will would not have done this with out Boosted Media. Take care.
You are the absolute best man!!! Thanks so much for this video. It literally took longer to get my pedals off my rig than it did to make this swap by following your instructions. Getting the pin back in was a bit tricky but once you get it lined up right with your methods it slides in very easy. Thanks again!!!
I really like these contents. They are going to be so useful for me hopefully in the not too far future : ) You would absolutly deserve so much more subscribers! Thanks for your videos!
Great video and tips for lining up the holes for the pin. In the manual they say not to screw the preload screw past the bottom of the white line but that will never get them holes to line up. I had to hammer the pin in with a big Allen key before I figured this out
Very helpful. I used the screwdriver as a lever and I slipped and thought I pinched the cable but all good. The set I received today had a little tool that is used as a spacer to avoid pinching the motor cable.
Mate!! thank you for the HELP!! UPDATED kits come with "FIX-1" L shape tool - to help with aligning pin holes. i tried your way... i got all the way to fitting screw-driver... but not enough force to align PIN. the new tool does help align and protect gear. HOWEVER -- thank you for your video and help !!!!
I put the red and green elastomer, screwed everything back together and it was way too stiff for me 😅. Gotta redo everything and put stock back ahhhhh. I think this is kit is meant to stiffen up your brakes for f1 racing, it’s hard as a wall
With the V3’s I just purchased, I’m only getting about an inch of brake pedal travel with the stock set up out of the box with the load cell set to max. Twice as stiff as others have shown in their reviews. Has Fanatec possibly changed the strength of the stock foam since this video.
I mounted my BPK just yesterday and my biggest issue was the pin bolt holding the T piece into the pedal: it just wasnt coming out. I had to hammer it out and then I lubbed it all up. Even when I had it unplugged and tried to pass the pinbolt thru it, it'd just get stuck. Not sure whether it's due to a faulty pin bolt or T piece, but it definitely feels like the pin bolt is too tight for it. While it was a nightmare to get it out, getting it in was pretty easy with the L tool included on the kit which you can use as a wedge - it's only documented on the online kit documentation, my physical sheet doesn't event mention it. I'm using 13E 13G with preload @ 1 and I'm feeling pretty comfortable with it. I'm a bit saddened that I won't get to try the hard setup because I don't want to go over this nightmsre again and then not like the 2x 13G just to have to go back haha When it comes to maintenance, do you just lube the T piece that goes into the elastomers cylinder or do you also lube the pinbolt, if so, how?
To be honest, I just lubed up the elastomers and haven’t done any maintenance other then cleaning since. No squeaks and no issues whatsoever with hours of daily use since the time of making this video up u til a few weeks ago when I upgraded to HE Ultimates.
Recently purchased a 200kg load cell kit from aliexpress was a bit tricky to get it to work but its a much better feel than stock load cell. A screw hole stripped out from the alloy block and it takes a bit of adjusting on the preload screw to get it to zero out on min setting also the wiring is inverted and requires you to change red/white wires as fanatec software wont allow to invert it. was hoping you might consider doing a review?
I got the performance kit but was too afraid I'd mess up so I adjusted the cylinder at the rear instead. But that seems to pre-engage the brakes without me touching the pedal. Guessing I forgot to re-calibrate the brakes. Ooops.
I thought I was an idiot after taking over an hour just to reinsert the pin. Thanks for saving my sanity. Though I think I would like an even harder combination (medium now) I don't want to experiment with different combinations because the pin is so damn hard to reinsert.
interesting that these pedals were designed with intial soft 'squish' and yet the cheaper CSL pedal LC is much firmer, which is considered a proper race setup?
I got this performance kit from Pagnian imports. They charge 79 dollars. It's only 50 if you order it your self. A 58% markup. I should have checked so anyone else should check too. They include shipping but it is still a fair bit more.
8:15 don't use a screw driver, you will scratch your precious pedals, use the Fix - I included in the kit to push it up, just insert it downwards and push it up in place, easier than a screwdriver.
Why in some reviews in other channels do you see the translucent red and green rubbers and here they look opaque? I just received my brake kit and do I see them also opaque? is it another material? It gives the impression that those that look opaque are harder. Someone knows something about it?
Hi there, just slightly off the topic. I’m about to buy the csl elite for PS4 + V3 pedals and bmw wheel. Do you reckon this set will be still compatible with the PS5 ? I’m scared to spend €1200 and found out soon it will not be compatible 😅 Thank you. Great channel.
It’s impossible to say with certainty. But I’d imagine anything that supported PS4 will also support PS5. Although maybe not immediately. For devices that don’t support PS4 I’m not sure.
so what about adjusting the preload screw to eliminate any mechanical play? the instructions say thats all its good for and cannot be used the way it was when factory. did you adjust it at all? was there any mechanical play?
I pick up this performance kit and damper, even with the soft setting (green and red) it's to hard for me. and I ripped the brake rumble wire,because it's very difficult insert the stop of the brake piston.
Great Vid thanks for this followed it last night and installed. Getting the pin back in was a pain in the A$$ but thanks to your tips no broken rumble cable. The difference is night and day. Just out of interest where did you set the pre-load to (low/medium/high) or is just trial and error and personal preference? Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I know it's a few years old but still very relevant and helped me greatly. Only change I made was to run a small strip of duct tape over motor vibration wires for protection. Thanks again and hope to see you in the track someday!
Thanks for the excellent video. I was having real problems with this damn pin and the feeling as the thing finally slid into place was epic! If you were left handed as me then it would have been perfect lol but I couldn’t have done it without your help so you get a sub from me along side a BIG thank you
I'm trying to change out the mediium setting on the V3 USA pedals, but the pin/bolt will not come out. Should I slide a screwdriver under and pry a bit to try and get the bolt out?
Another Great video thanks too you, you are my tech guy for my fanatec damper installation, soon the brake performance kit and the next level gt track racing cockpit! lol I do have a question for you regarding the V3's in the fanatec software. How exacly does the vertical sensor signal work? It's rated from zero at the top to 100% at the bottom. If i dial it at a 100% and push the brake pedal i barely can see the blue progression bar going higher then 15%-20%. If i put zero it's fairly easy to reach the max. So my question is what means that signal input from zero to 100% (The brake force i guess). Thanks! Keep up the great work!
I think I m alone with my problem but it s absolutely impossible to remove axis on the brake pedal. I remove little screw, use grease and nothing move. Any tip to help me ?
I'm having the same problem as you, I just can't generate enough torque with the Allen key they provided to loosen the screw. I think I'm gonna go to the store and purchase a 2.5 mm hex for my drill and give that a try. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas. If anything worked for you please let me know.
Great review, however I unfortunately aborted at the removal of the grub screw. Not sure whether all three (one on each pedal) have been factory cross threaded or if they have been screwed in with a “lock tight” glue. Either way, I am beginning to destroy the hex head of the grub screw...frustrating. Anyone else encounter this?
Can I get away with using silicone oil from my RC truck shocks instead of the lithium grease? I can’t find any of the amber color grease that comes with the BPK
Where do I open up the Fanatec control panel Is it on my pc already .? I don't have a Fanatec wheel Just V3 Pedals Do they need ne to download software? Please help
What is the benefit of this Performance Kit? Without the Kit it is very hard for me to press the brake completely 100%. I generally dont want to press even harder. But with the kit it will be even harder I guess? or is there another reason? or does the kit only improve the 50% force, makes it more linear or whatever?
🔴🔴🔴🔴The tool they give you in the box slides behind it making sure you avoid the wires. You slide it in squeezing the clip and piston separating the wires with your fingers and it aligns the holes perfect.🔴🔴🔴
Thank you for this video . I spent 6hrs today fucking around with these pedals, it would have been longer without your help, Cheers. Done the brake kit and then swapped to the D shaped pedal accessories; changed the clutch and accelerator springs as well , Then unmounted the V1's and installed the V3s into the cockpit. The clutch could be a lot more stiffer in my opinion even after the stronger spring. I think it needs some hydraulics on the clutch, can we mount that Hydraulic brake peripheral to the clutch I wonder? Thanks again. Should mention, I was fortunate enough to get these CSP V3s for free as I ordered the Podium DD1 from Fanatec , and as Fanatec had some manufacturing issues with the wheels they were incredibly generous and offered every one with the DD1 or DD2 pre-order a $520.00 voucher to purchase what we want, hence the V3s , although The CSP V1's still work a treat , it was time too upgrade. :)
I haven’t sued the CSL Elite pedals so can’t say. Oh and in reply to your other comment, my pedals look new be sure I’ve only had them for 3 months. I paid full retail for all the FANATEC gear you see in my videos. I have no arrangement with them other than my affiliate links in the description.
@@boostedmedia i watched lot's off you tube before i buy i have to say i got the mc laren gt3 wheel i saw lot's off reviews no one mentioned the shift problem that's why i was a little suspicious nevertheless you got a sub love the content
Thanks mate. I just preordered the new V2 Formula wheel. Looks awesome. My 3 month old Formula Carbon had a pin snap off and died yesterday. Not happy about that. Will make a video once I’ve followed through with customer service.
@@boostedmedia have to say still loving my fanatec gear i sim race now 4 months first logitech loved it so much that i had to upgrade it's expensive but worth it ( hope my girlfriend's start's to think the same way :p ) almost two month's a csw 2.5 and now two weeks lc upgrade and gt3 it only dubbel shift a few times in the beginning in raceroom i changed the dubbel shift protection not sure if that solved it can't remember of the gt3 also dubbel shifted in other games
by the way my cls LC brakes are really day and night dif compered to my g29 brakes just wondering if upgrading to v3 pedals are again a big difference stil got time to upgrade at the moment got a lot off cars and track's to learn happy times on the way i hope to start on line racing within weeks at the moment don't want to ruin other people's races with my mistakes i got now some good lap times on zandvoort and spa starts to go wel
I am about to install the kit now. You mention being disappointed that it wasn't included with the pedals. I agree. My experience since deciding to go Fanatec just before Christmas has been extremely disappointed just how much they rip me off. The 8nm boost kit is a massive ripoff if bought as a 'bundle'. You effectively pay 100 dollars more than the price they charge separately. Pagnian adds 100's off dollars to that for doing absolutely nothing except ordering on your behalf. The quality is not there either. It mostly is but not really. I have have numerous issues. The flimsy wiring for the pedal vibration motor is one example. It is so easy to break them if you try and adjust the pedal position. The whole experience has left a sour taste in my mouth regarding Fanatec. And Pagnian.
I wish I had watched this before the race Sunday.. Sorry if I got in your way Sunday.. I was PLAGUED by technical issues.. But I was determined to participate.. NGL, I ASSumed you would be in the GTP class and was hoping to learn from you.. If I had watched this, I wouldn't have had the click in my pedal.. Thanks for what you do Will!!
I have no cockpit, so it´s very hard to move. Should i move to 13 red and 12 green? By the way i have preload in 1. I have a doubt, preload 1 it´s the softer and 5 the harder? Thanks!
I ended up pulling the “rear” off the pedal set frame to install performance kit. Believe it or not it’s more straight forward, loosen 4 bolts rotate while assembly rear wards drop in the performance dampers re-tighten bolts. Ie didn’t remove pin at all. No need to re-align anything.
"If you have to force it then you're doing something wrong" - words to live life by right there
no wonder my wife left me......ive been such a FOOL
Yeah most of time. ATX power supply connectors can be hella tight sometimes tho
Not sure if this was recent but they've included basically a little L shaped plastic 'fix' you can slide behind the brake assembly when you're re-aligning it with the pin that's thinner than the bolt so it essentially levers it in as you slide it back, thus avoiding the motor cable. Was super easy!
+1
it might be worth a 2 min update to this video showing it
it really is a thing of beauty and a joy to install with this
I just followed this and then wondered what the "L" was for so I then looked at the instruction... Worked out but serves me right for not checking the instructions first....
From my understanding the “fix” L shape is a time saver. I’m about to put it in.
Damn, I read this too late haha
I never got that wow would have helped alot
Tried installing it based on the instructions to no avail. Followed your instructions exactly and it worked! Thanks!
Once again your tutorial makes the difference. Easy installation after watching this although that final bar isnt half tricky at the end but all done with no damages incurred. You are invaluable to the community Will. love ya brother.
Installing my performance kit today and had to re-watch your video :) , thank you soooooooooo much for showing EVERY step!
update: finished, took about 45 minutes, even with you showing how, getting that darn pin in was still a pain in the butt., thanks again!
Thanks for this, I was fearful but got it done!
This was really helpful..only took a few minutes to install armed with this information...thank you
Thank you for this video! I recently got my kit, and they are starting to include a new "L" shaped plastic piece to help protect the motor wire .. but your tips still made this process a lot easier than it would have been otherwise ... cheers!
Gosh.. After reading your comment i used the L shaped plastic piece in order to lift the thing.. Finally after trying 1 hour i got the pin into the break again with ease xD
Really appreciate the videos. So far, have used your videos to help set up my TR160, and installing the BPK.
Without them, I am sure I would still be doing one or the other.
Saved me tons of headaches.
Just wanted to say “Thanks” and keep up the good work, it is appreciated!
Thanks Todd :)
I had the damper when I first got my V3 pedals but since fitting the performance kit I have never put it back on. Best €30 I have spent on my sim racing kit 👍
Yep definitely makes a huge difference. I can feel a slight difference with the Damper kit but definitely not enough to justify the cost when you already have the performance kit installed. But more on that in the next video.
@@boostedmedia Has the standard configuration also this "squishyness" of the PU foam? Because I dont like my beakpedal to be soft at first. I like it being hard and responsive from the beginning.
@@chillaah2000 I've seen people cut a 3rd red or green elastomer to the size of the PU and use that instead for no initial squishiness. Cut it slightly smaller since it won't compress as much
@@robhagle Thanks. Makes sense.
For those with the INVERTED pedals version: This was a much larger job!! Since it has the damper pre-installed and the opposite rotation there is VERY little space to work with, and cables are even shorter! If it wasn't for the HUGE difference it makes, I would not have done this. This video still helps a a bunch with tips like the "allen-key" as a lever etc, but be prepared for a bigger job.
I know this is from 2 years ago but I just got mine and was wondering if you needed to end up pulling off the dampener or not?
@@JackRLong12 I'm not 100% sure, I think I did disconnect the dampener to give me a bit more room to work. Without it you are very limited with space and I think I was afraid of damaging a wire or something if I didn't. Good luck!
@ChristopherB- yeah thanks man. Love the pedals but can tell it needs lube. I got the pun out but with the damper installed, I couldn't get the piston out so wanted to ask. Thanks again!
Thanks for this video! Just purchased myself a set of these pedals with the performance kit (using your affiliate link). I had read stories of users who snagged the vibration motor cable that made me sit up and take notice, but I gave your vid a good watch before I even unboxed my set and from there it was a painless and quick install following this. Thanks again. Now back to go practice, practice, practice and hopefully see some lap times going down in the near future.
I have the v3i pedals, I took the damper off and put it on the accelerator pedal. Amazing.
You’re not the first person to say this. I’m going to have to give it another try. Lol
I haven’t gotten my performance kit yet and I’ve already picked up 1s a lap, it comes in today yay
Hi Will, I guess you had already find out by now as the video is 2 years old. Just to let the new viewers know a trick here. The reason the pin does not gets back in easily is the elastomers pushes the cradle much lower than the holes. Using the L shaped spacer while inserting the cradle back does the trick. The canal in cradle and the holes are align instantly. It only took 10 secs in my first trial. Putting the cradle back was much harder for me as i did not want to dent my brand new toy with a screw driver.
Dude. Why didn't this click for me right away... Instructions are kinda vague. Went straight in. Champion.
Honestly, I am really enjoying watching your channel. Thank you
Thanks a lot :)
Installed it today, thanks for this install guide mate, loving the feel so far.
Hey Will, great content as usual.
I just purchased the v3 brake performance kit via your link along with the v3 inverted to go with it.
Keep doing what you doin son!
Very helpful thank you. And btw I agree with you, Fanatec should provide the break kit with the pedals as a standard, it feels so much better.
Getting a full setup with V2.5 base and V3 pedal I did order the brake kit and watched a few vids re installation and review of the product I must say I found your video to be by far the best to follow easy and to the point. They seem to have added a tool to protect the wire whilst installing the mod I assume this wasn’t included when you did the video. Great vid I will have this on again in the background when I install mine thanks man
Found out why some people use a hammer. Pin for accelerator has a little machined bit for grub screw, Brake did not & was burred from grub screw. Silicone spray & a few taps got it out. Smoothed of bure ran pin though with silicon spray over & over until nice & free. Hope all go's well from hear. Love your stuff Will would not have done this with out Boosted Media. Take care.
Thanks to this video, perf kit installed and ready to go back into the rig ! Super stuff
You are the absolute best man!!! Thanks so much for this video. It literally took longer to get my pedals off my rig than it did to make this swap by following your instructions. Getting the pin back in was a bit tricky but once you get it lined up right with your methods it slides in very easy. Thanks again!!!
Thank you Will for this great guide, best guide on UA-cam!
I really like these contents. They are going to be so useful for me hopefully in the not too far future : ) You would absolutly deserve so much more subscribers! Thanks for your videos!
Great and useful info. I had the DK installed and decided to to give the BPK a try. Absolute game changer. Thanks!
Very helpful Will. With your tricks it was simple.
My perfect combo is the 12 RED and 13 RED. Great vid mate!
Great video and tips for lining up the holes for the pin. In the manual they say not to screw the preload screw past the bottom of the white line but that will never get them holes to line up. I had to hammer the pin in with a big Allen key before I figured this out
Very helpful. I used the screwdriver as a lever and I slipped and thought I pinched the cable but all good. The set I received today had a little tool that is used as a spacer to avoid pinching the motor cable.
Mate!! thank you for the HELP!! UPDATED kits come with "FIX-1" L shape tool - to help with aligning pin holes. i tried your way... i got all the way to fitting screw-driver... but not enough force to align PIN. the new tool does help align and protect gear. HOWEVER -- thank you for your video and help !!!!
I'd recommend you put in the black heavier clutch and throttle springs
Yeah I’m tempted to change those this week.
I put the red and green elastomer, screwed everything back together and it was way too stiff for me 😅.
Gotta redo everything and put stock back ahhhhh.
I think this is kit is meant to stiffen up your brakes for f1 racing, it’s hard as a wall
With the V3’s I just purchased, I’m only getting about an inch of brake pedal travel with the stock set up out of the box with the load cell set to max. Twice as stiff as others have shown in their reviews. Has Fanatec possibly changed the strength of the stock foam since this video.
Love this video. Thx Will
Will does Fanatec sell the pins only for the V3 pedals,I did it wrong and not getting a response fast enough from them ty and always great content
Great video thanks mate. Someone at Fanatec had tightened the first grub screw with an impact gun I think!! Apart from that it was a breeze!
How did you manage to sort this? Have tried wd40 on it but still feel like I'm going to strip the head.
I mounted my BPK just yesterday and my biggest issue was the pin bolt holding the T piece into the pedal: it just wasnt coming out.
I had to hammer it out and then I lubbed it all up. Even when I had it unplugged and tried to pass the pinbolt thru it, it'd just get stuck. Not sure whether it's due to a faulty pin bolt or T piece, but it definitely feels like the pin bolt is too tight for it.
While it was a nightmare to get it out, getting it in was pretty easy with the L tool included on the kit which you can use as a wedge - it's only documented on the online kit documentation, my physical sheet doesn't event mention it.
I'm using 13E 13G with preload @ 1 and I'm feeling pretty comfortable with it. I'm a bit saddened that I won't get to try the hard setup because I don't want to go over this nightmsre again and then not like the 2x 13G just to have to go back haha
When it comes to maintenance, do you just lube the T piece that goes into the elastomers cylinder or do you also lube the pinbolt, if so, how?
To be honest, I just lubed up the elastomers and haven’t done any maintenance other then cleaning since. No squeaks and no issues whatsoever with hours of daily use since the time of making this video up u til a few weeks ago when I upgraded to HE Ultimates.
Recently purchased a 200kg load cell kit from aliexpress was a bit tricky to get it to work but its a much better feel than stock load cell. A screw hole stripped out from the alloy block and it takes a bit of adjusting on the preload screw to get it to zero out on min setting also the wiring is inverted and requires you to change red/white wires as fanatec software wont allow to invert it. was hoping you might consider doing a review?
I got the performance kit but was too afraid I'd mess up so I adjusted the cylinder at the rear instead. But that seems to pre-engage the brakes without me touching the pedal. Guessing I forgot to re-calibrate the brakes. Ooops.
I thought I was an idiot after taking over an hour just to reinsert the pin. Thanks for saving my sanity. Though I think I would like an even harder combination (medium now) I don't want to experiment with different combinations because the pin is so damn hard to reinsert.
Hi! Im abort to install the Kit on the inverted pedals and from what i can see it's much easier right?
interesting that these pedals were designed with intial soft 'squish' and yet the cheaper CSL pedal LC is much firmer, which is considered a proper race setup?
Thank you! Quality video!
Incredible
Is it possible to make the brake pedal, even softer as default, with this kit??
Yeah, i notice about the brake first time using it...it's hard to press. So this kit will make easy to press?
Hi will. How often do you relubricate your performance kit. Also what else do you do in terms of maintenance for the v3 pedals cheers
I haven’t had to do anything yet other than just keeping them clean.
I got this performance kit from Pagnian imports. They charge 79 dollars. It's only 50 if you order it your self. A 58% markup. I should have checked so anyone else should check too. They include shipping but it is still a fair bit more.
8:15 don't use a screw driver, you will scratch your precious pedals, use the Fix - I included in the kit to push it up, just insert it downwards and push it up in place, easier than a screwdriver.
This wasn’t included in the kid when I made this video.
Any idea if the brake performance kit works on v2.0 pedals?
Why in some reviews in other channels do you see the translucent red and green rubbers and here they look opaque? I just received my brake kit and do I see them also opaque? is it another material? It gives the impression that those that look opaque are harder. Someone knows something about it?
awesome vid thanks! they include a small lever tool now to protect the wire lol
Hi there, just slightly off the topic. I’m about to buy the csl elite for PS4 + V3 pedals and bmw wheel. Do you reckon this set will be still compatible with the PS5 ? I’m scared to spend €1200 and found out soon it will not be compatible 😅 Thank you. Great channel.
It’s impossible to say with certainty. But I’d imagine anything that supported PS4 will also support PS5. Although maybe not immediately.
For devices that don’t support PS4 I’m not sure.
Boosted Media Thank you very much!!
so what about adjusting the preload screw to eliminate any mechanical play? the instructions say thats all its good for and cannot be used the way it was when factory. did you adjust it at all? was there any mechanical play?
No I didn’t have any mechanical play so there was no need to adjust it.
Can I modify the pedals without removing the pedals from my rig? So, from the top? It is so complicated to remove the whole pedals from my rig :(
Most helpful. Thanks!
I have a problem trying to remove the screw. Locked. Please can you help me?
Just buy the v3 pedals and the brake performance kit! I go for the 13 red + 13 green but what travel range do you recommend?
The red adjustment doesn’t function after installing the Performance Kit. You just adjust it to reduce the slack.
Just orderd mine thank you for this vid was very helpfull will :)
I pick up this performance kit and damper, even with the soft setting (green and red) it's to hard for me.
and I ripped the brake rumble wire,because it's very difficult insert the stop of the brake piston.
Having trouble getting the bolt out after unscrewing the small screw on the brake
I can't get it out either. I'm so frustrated right now.
yeah, how do i get that out??
Great Vid thanks for this followed it last night and installed. Getting the pin back in was a pain in the A$$ but thanks to your tips no broken rumble cable. The difference is night and day. Just out of interest where did you set the pre-load to (low/medium/high) or is just trial and error and personal preference? Thanks again.
Preload doesn’t function after installing the kit. You just set it to the point where there is no free play.
@@boostedmedia Ok thanks mate :-)
Thanks for the video. I know it's a few years old but still very relevant and helped me greatly. Only change I made was to run a small strip of duct tape over motor vibration wires for protection. Thanks again and hope to see you in the track someday!
Thanks for the excellent video. I was having real problems with this damn pin and the feeling as the thing finally slid into place was epic! If you were left handed as me then it would have been perfect lol but I couldn’t have done it without your help so you get a sub from me along side a BIG thank you
I'm trying to change out the mediium setting on the V3 USA pedals, but the pin/bolt will not come out. Should I slide a screwdriver under and pry a bit to try and get the bolt out?
No that’s likely to damage it. You might need to use a punch key and give it a light tap with a hammer.
@@boostedmedia the hammer definitely did the job thanks :)
Good stuff. Just be really careful of the vibration motor cable when you reassemble.
@@boostedmedia noted thanks again!
In the video, you removed two (2) of the stock buffers and installed three (3) updated buffers. Is that correct?
Yep. The replacements are shorter.
So 1 kit is enough for 2-3 pedal sets?
How do you get to the fenatec control panel
Quarantine brake pedal modification that always wanted to modify 😇 (medium to high brake setting)
Hello Will, what preload on the cylinder do you use?
None. You’re not meant to preload it with the performance kit installed. Just tighten it to the point where there’s no slack
Boosted Media Really! oh i had mine at 1. Once again, thanks professor! haha
Another Great video thanks too you, you are my tech guy for my fanatec damper installation, soon the brake performance kit and the next level gt track racing cockpit! lol
I do have a question for you regarding the V3's in the fanatec software. How exacly does the vertical sensor signal work? It's rated from zero at the top to 100% at the bottom. If i dial it at a 100% and push the brake pedal i barely can see the blue progression bar going higher then 15%-20%. If i put zero it's fairly easy to reach the max. So my question is what means that signal input from zero to 100% (The brake force i guess).
Thanks! Keep up the great work!
It’s a load cell so the amount of force applied. Got can adjust the sensitivity via the calibration settings on your wheel.
@@boostedmedia Thanks!
Hi, do you know the power resistence in number of red and green elistomers?
Not sure sorry. It’s not listed in the manual.
@@boostedmedia I know!
I thought you had taken the measurements
I think I m alone with my problem but it s absolutely impossible to remove axis on the brake pedal. I remove little screw, use grease and nothing move. Any tip to help me ?
I'm having the same problem as you, I just can't generate enough torque with the Allen key they provided to loosen the screw. I think I'm gonna go to the store and purchase a 2.5 mm hex for my drill and give that a try. If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas. If anything worked for you please let me know.
Yeah try a drill with a hex head and make sure you set the clutch relatively low so you don’t strip it.
Great review, however I unfortunately aborted at the removal of the grub screw. Not sure whether all three (one on each pedal) have been factory cross threaded or if they have been screwed in with a “lock tight” glue. Either way, I am beginning to destroy the hex head of the grub screw...frustrating. Anyone else encounter this?
I’ve heard of a few people having this problem. I believe some have been cross threaded from factory.
Can I get away with using silicone oil from my RC truck shocks instead of the lithium grease? I can’t find any of the amber color grease that comes with the BPK
hey i might be late but i have a question.
my pedals arent mounted anywhere so is this worth it for me ?
No. The pedals need to be mounted to use this.
@@boostedmedia oh well that sucks but thanks for your answer
What about the preload screw? What setting number?
It no longer functions as a preload screw once the performance kit is installed. You just adjust it until there’s no slack.
Will would u still buy these now in 2023?
Greta vid, just to let you know the kit now comes with a tool to help keep the wire from getting crushed
Can you just use one green or red?
Where do I open up the Fanatec control panel
Is it on my pc already .?
I don't have a Fanatec wheel
Just V3 Pedals
Do they need ne to download software? Please help
Control panel (the one with the steering wheel) in search
What is the benefit of this Performance Kit? Without the Kit it is very hard for me to press the brake completely 100%. I generally dont want to press even harder. But with the kit it will be even harder I guess? or is there another reason? or does the kit only improve the 50% force, makes it more linear or whatever?
Good question. I wonder the same. Brake is really hard on its own out of the box
Why these don't come stock is beyond me.
Just ordered one. And my McLaren v2 will arrive this week!
I will literally be farting sparks!
🔴🔴🔴🔴The tool they give you in the box slides behind it making sure you avoid the wires. You slide it in squeezing the clip and piston separating the wires with your fingers and it aligns the holes perfect.🔴🔴🔴
Thank you for this video . I spent 6hrs today fucking around with these pedals, it would have been longer without your help, Cheers. Done the brake kit and then swapped to the D shaped pedal accessories; changed the clutch and accelerator springs as well , Then unmounted the V1's and installed the V3s into the cockpit. The clutch could be a lot more stiffer in my opinion even after the stronger spring. I think it needs some hydraulics on the clutch, can we mount that Hydraulic brake peripheral to the clutch I wonder? Thanks again.
Should mention, I was fortunate enough to get these CSP V3s for free as I ordered the Podium DD1 from Fanatec , and as Fanatec had some manufacturing issues with the wheels they were incredibly generous and offered every one with the DD1 or DD2 pre-order a $520.00 voucher to purchase what we want, hence the V3s , although The CSP V1's still work a treat , it was time too upgrade. :)
Wow that’s awesome. I didn’t know they’d done that. The clutch. Doesn’t have a mount for the damper kit unfortunately.
now try to change the acellerator spring.. its even more fun!!!
i got the cls elite lc pedals , are they really that much better ?
I haven’t sued the CSL Elite pedals so can’t say. Oh and in reply to your other comment, my pedals look new be sure I’ve only had them for 3 months. I paid full retail for all the FANATEC gear you see in my videos. I have no arrangement with them other than my affiliate links in the description.
@@boostedmedia i watched lot's off you tube before i buy i have to say i got the mc laren gt3 wheel i saw lot's off reviews no one mentioned the shift problem that's why i was a little suspicious nevertheless you got a sub love the content
Thanks mate. I just preordered the new V2 Formula wheel. Looks awesome. My 3 month old Formula Carbon had a pin snap off and died yesterday. Not happy about that. Will make a video once I’ve followed through with customer service.
@@boostedmedia have to say still loving my fanatec gear i sim race now 4 months first logitech loved it so much that i had to upgrade it's expensive but worth it ( hope my girlfriend's start's to think the same way :p ) almost two month's a csw 2.5 and now two weeks lc upgrade and gt3 it only dubbel shift a few times in the beginning in raceroom i changed the dubbel shift protection not sure if that solved it can't remember of the gt3 also dubbel shifted in other games
by the way my cls LC brakes are really day and night dif compered to my g29 brakes just wondering if upgrading to v3 pedals are again a big difference stil got time to upgrade at the moment got a lot off cars and track's to learn happy times on the way i hope to start on line racing within weeks at the moment don't want to ruin other people's races with my mistakes i got now some good lap times on zandvoort and spa starts to go wel
They don't give you an alan Key ?
Great! Thanks!
legend thanks mate
Sad they charge around 30 eurs for shipping, when the item costs close to that same amount!
can anyone help me? i can’t remove the pin for some reason :/
And of course I managed to grease the PU foam, I swear Fanatec’s instructions told me to 🤦🏻♂️
I am going to necro this to say Barry Rowland (sim racing garage) does it in his review. So at least you are in good company... lol
I am about to install the kit now. You mention being disappointed that it wasn't included with the pedals. I agree. My experience since deciding to go Fanatec just before Christmas has been extremely disappointed just how much they rip me off.
The 8nm boost kit is a massive ripoff if bought as a 'bundle'. You effectively pay 100 dollars more than the price they charge separately.
Pagnian adds 100's off dollars to that for doing absolutely nothing except ordering on your behalf.
The quality is not there either.
It mostly is but not really. I have have numerous issues. The flimsy wiring for the pedal vibration motor is one example. It is so easy to break them if you try and adjust the pedal position.
The whole experience has left a sour taste in my mouth regarding Fanatec. And Pagnian.
I wish I had watched this before the race Sunday.. Sorry if I got in your way Sunday.. I was PLAGUED by technical issues.. But I was determined to participate.. NGL, I ASSumed you would be in the GTP class and was hoping to learn from you.. If I had watched this, I wouldn't have had the click in my pedal.. Thanks for what you do Will!!
I just installed red and green 13mm and the brake only moves like a 20%
WTF?
That’s normal, just like a real racing car. Brake force is applied through pressure, not deflection.
I have no cockpit, so it´s very hard to move.
Should i move to 13 red and 12 green?
By the way i have preload in 1. I have a doubt, preload 1 it´s the softer and 5 the harder?
Thanks!
If you don’t have a solid platform to mount your pedals I’d suggest going with 2 12mm reds.
Ok i´ll do that, thankyou very much.
By the way, the red cilinder of preload, 1 is the hardest and 5 the softer?
No. Explained in the video
Very hard to follow instructions, unfortunately this is the best I can find
My pin will not budge, very frustrating. Grub screw is loose.
I ended up pulling the “rear” off the pedal set frame to install performance kit. Believe it or not it’s more straight forward, loosen 4 bolts rotate while assembly rear wards drop in the performance dampers re-tighten bolts. Ie didn’t remove pin at all. No need to re-align anything.
@toose70 any other tips? Mine comes in a week