I Like To Make Stuff hi bob, i am not a pro in wood turning but i habe one myself and have a litle experience. I just had an idea to your tour problem not getting the cylinders round the same the whole way, you could try to turm around the toolrest so the edge is facing you and the put some kind of a stop on the chisel to rest against the edge of the toolrest. Havent tried it out, but it might work or be a stupid idea. Greetings from switzerland, andri
We go to antique shops quite often. Whenever I see an old coat/hat rack, I take pictures of it. One day I'll start trying to copy them. Thanks for the fine video.
For a guy who's not too experienced in turning wood & metal, you did a great job dude. The center shaft definitely looks cooler with the flats in it. Love your stuff Bob. Keep'em coming, and thank you.
A tip for getting cylinders on a lathe: Make sure your tool rest is in line your your cylinder as close as possible, now turn one part of your stock down to the desired thicknes, then mark the spot your tool rest and turning tool meet at your desired thicknes on your tool itself with some tape or marker, or even a small clamp as stop. Now, just try to keep your tool on that mark using your tool rest as a guide, if everything is set up right it will be a perfect cylinder. Hope this helps in future projects!
The brass tips are the perfect touch and complement that Walnut perfectly. Great idea on the jig for drilling those holes on an angle consistently each time. Adding that one to my bag of tricks. Thanks!
This is a nice looking coat rack, Bob. It's always cool to listen to you explain your builds. Even a duffer like me can understand what you are saying.
I can't believe you did the intro on the first try! Nailed it! It's great that you got to learn a lot on this project and thank you for taking us along on the ride!
One very very very small tip is that you could have applied tape and tham drilled all the holes, this way you wouldnt need to tape it afterwards or cut the tape perfectly. Amazing build amazing content and amazing skill set. Awesome channel
Just wanted to compliment your editing for these videos! I especially love how your sponsorship thing is in its own window outlined in orange, with a matching orange timer bar thing at the bottom of the screen. Simple, but it's a very nice touch. I wish everyone did stuff like that! Anyway, love your videos! Keep up the great work!
What really helped when I first started to use a lathe was to purchase one that supported a digital readout. Those little things are the best when it comes to accuracy!
Bob, something you can do, you have the horizontal pipe frame on your wood lathe. My father adapted a carriage, cross slide, & tool post to that pipe frame, that way he got the consistency of a machinist mill on his wood mill when turning full length cylinder shapes. No more free handing it. It also helped to turn precision cuts in steps like you would with a machinist mill.
Hey Bob, that's a great project! A quick tip for turning/truing up cylinders is to use a flat sanding block that's the length of your cylinder. Use the sanding block to knock down all of the high spots, just be sure to do it at a relatively low speed.
Turned out great. I had two kids make coat racks this year this year, but we drilled holes in the bottom of the pole and top of the base and pinned them together that way instead of trying to get a perfect mortise. I love how the Walnut looks with the brass. I like your solution to drilling the holes at an angle as well.
If I need it to be straight and not curvey I use a ruler and put it on it and use a contrasting piece of paper behind it to see where the high and low spots are located. I hope this helps your turning and keep up the great work!
Idk if anyone said anything about making the cylinders straight. But someone told me that a way of achieving that is rocking your body sidways while you turn it, that way the angle/distance from the tool to the future cylinder doesn't change. Another way is to move both arms at the same speed, so the path of the tool is not an arch. But the principle is the same, maintain the angle/distance of the tool from the wood. Love your builds!
To avoid waviness, in my experience, I've always found that working from one end to the other in a consistent stroke works. It appeared in the video, you were going back and forth. Always love Walnut and brass together!
For the sizing and levelness of the cuts on the lathe, I have a ruler with zero centered below the point of the spindle and a brace that slides forwards and back. You can get close to the radius and then bump it in slowly as it turns. Similar to the metal lathe. The measurements are on the handles though so you can sneak up on the right radius. Older lathes May have some slop in the way they turn and actually whip the material around. In such cases, you can let it warm up and try again or if it’s too bad, it may need some repair...or a new lathe. Good excuse for a new tool or new project to build a lathe Keep the videos coming. They are great! Thanks!!!
Hey Bob! , a tip on making the dowel the same is making a bigger knife chisel, grab a sheet of metal and sharpen it like a big knife and sit it flat on a surface which you push in to the dowel , adjustments can be made to the length of your piece
Awesome looking coat rack! I’m sure others have said it, but putting sandpaper around a block of wood will give you a long straight edge you can use to sand the piece to one thickness. You can also just put a straight edge like a level against the piece to check yourself as you go. Great work! Keep finding projects on the lathe and you’ll be amazed at how quickly you get comfortable.
The best caliper when doing multiple pieces is actually an open end wrench. The larger flat surface and the fact that they don't deflect makes them ideal. Chair makers regularly use that trick for consistent tenons and spindles.
For getting a straight line on a cylinder on the lathe, turn your piece down to slightly larger than you want it to be. Then, use a piece of 3/4" ply with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper attached to it to get it nice and straight. Works very well with rolling pins, also. For drilling on the lathe, get a set of pen jaws for your chuck. This really helps if you're drilling something that isn't exactly square. Make sure to use a long enough bit when drilling, so you don't have to flip the piece around and try to get both holes lined up. If you try making some pens on your lathe, it will help with turning down to a desired diameter very well.
Great looking coat rack! Love the look of Walnut. You're right - most of this is just practice... when I'm turning multiples I use a flat head carbide just like you did, cut down to close to the final diameter and then sand to the final measurement. If it's something you were going to be doing often I'd recommend a duplicating attachment for your lathe but as a one-off project you did great.
Hi Bob this is Eli, great video and project! Really like how you are incorporating your lathe into the videos. But as you were saying about making the spindles straight, I actually have a pretty good tip. You might already know this but as you are cutting, every now and then take a ruler I like to use a metal machine ruler, but just set it on the top of the dowel and look and see if it sits straight on your piece and there are no gaps in between the wood and ruler. Then the spindle should be pretty straight. Hope you see this Bob, and maybe it helped a little bit. I am only 13 and love woodworking and your Channel but with that said hope i helped!!
That 'turned' out looking great Bob! har har Love the walnut with the brass tips. I have attached something to the shaft of the turning tool before so I know how far to cut, like a piece of blue tape or even a stop collar. When it hits the tool rest, I don't cut any further. It helps make the cylinder consistent thickness. Nice hat trick!!!
Hi Bob! Great work! A few tips about lathes : 1)to make an even cylinder on a wood lathe, just use a clamp on your cutter, it should hit lathe's support plank and limit the cutters movement (cutting depth). Of course, it's not as precise as a feed on metal lathe, but it does 90% of roughing for you. 2)On a metal lathe, download a Walter calculator app, it''s a great tool to decide, what speeds and feeds to use, seems that you are running on too low RPM, a common mistake. Also, put away those soldered carbide cutters, and order some indexable, like MWLNR cutter for almost all external turning operations. With polished inserts (each has 6! workong edges) you'll get a nice, polished surface every time you use it. If you want, I can make a short list of most used cutter shapes to order. Thanks for the great job and videos!
Great looking project and always nice to push yourself with new things. I didn't want to read through the over 600 replies to see if it had been mentioned before, but have a couple of suggestions to consider. 1. A real easy way to make sure that you have exact rod dimensions on a lathe is to get a cheap open end wrench the size you want the end product and grind down the shorter end into a chisel point. You can then get close with your lathe tool and use the wrench to get the exact dimension all the way down. 2. You could have saved a little chisel work connecting the base to the pole by using a forstner bit on the base and rounding the pole to the same size. You probably did it right however, as it might be harder to get the pole round than to get the hole squared off. Looking forward to seeing more.
I like how you made a flat bottom, no feet on the base, and the pole not a cylinder. I wanted to put antique acorn hangers on four sides of the top of the pole, staggered as you did. I was not confident that a flat base would hold up the weight of coats until I saw the measurements and the fact that you put a screw up through the bottom and used glue. It is, after all a good hardwood. Thank you for this presentation!
Couple tips for consistent diameter on wood turnings. 1. Take a wrench of the appropriate size, radius the tip of the lower jaw, sharpen the tip of the upper jaw. Bring the stock nearly to size, use the tool to cut a series of notches (as with bandsawing), use a flat nose scraper to bring the rest of the stock to size. Allow a few % of overthickness for sanding to final size. 2. Buy a caliper attachment for your lathe tool(s) and use as above. 3. Use that metal lathe of yours (when applicable). 4. Bring it close and sand to final size - they make sandpaper as coarse as 24 grit. I’d advise a longboard sanding block at a skewed angle to contact all the high spots when doing final sanding. Use common sense for holding the board and body positioning - they can sting when flung.
For perfect cylinders on the wood lathe you could 3D print collars that would fit around your chisels. Once you get the item close to the final size you can put the collar on and then push it against your tool rest. When you slide it along your tool rest you will get a perfect cylinder.
My method for turning a straight, smooth line is to slide your whole body left to right, instead of your arms. This allows you to keep your chisel at the same angle to the wood during the whole pass. Also, make your passes in one direction only, i.e. left to right. Hopefully that helps!
Bob, your time and dedication to your craft, is inspiring. I appreciate your website, (since you and another youtuber) have inspired me to tap into my creativity, thanks again!
On the note of turning nice cylinders, high speed steel tools allow you to "bevel ride" and produce consistent shapes and greatly reduce the sanding process. Using a spindle roughing gouge to knock the corners off and a skew to get a final dimension works mighty nice. Just a few words of advice from one turner to another.
Bob, try using some adhesive backed sandpaper stuck to a piece of flat wood that matched the length of your work piece. That will let you sand the piece very flat to get rid of the waves.
Nicely done Bob! I especially like the drill press jig you guys came up with. Also, nice to see you make the leap to metal turning. I'm pretty obsessed with Click Spring videos and would love to try that out some day.
Pretty cool project and the design is pretty clean. Another thing you could use instead of brass for the tips are 1/2 inch copper end caps that are for copper pipe that you can get from a hardware store if you can't get brass tips.You would just need to sand the dowels at the end to clearance it. It's very inspiring and I've got the itch to make something this weekend.
Hey Bob, first of all: great looking project at all, it turned out way better than I thought! To take turns on your wood turning question: I would recommend starting out at wood turning with one tool: the spindle gouge! The good thing with this tool is, that you can cut sideways pretty easy! A specially with using a wide gouge! You can use your passive hand near the tip of the tool, to hide the tool along the tale stock, which will eventually results in a rather straight line, and you might have a perfect and straight cilinder! I hope my spelling isn't to bad at all!😂 Greetings from Germany!
Make sure the tool rest is straight with your piece and use it and your finger as a guide for depth. Holding your finger in a spot on the tool, just ride your finger on the tool rest as the depth gauge. This rack looks great!
The rack looks real nice! I wish I had these videos, and watched youtube when I was in highschool. I had a woodshop class where I had plenty of power tools to do these types of projects.
Phew, not gonna lie I held my breath a little when you cut that test block into an octogon and when you were drilling in to the dowels by hand. The result is gorgeous! I wish I had space for a lathe! I didn't know there was a dark wood glue, gonna check it out next time I'm at the hardware store.
Another great project Bob! Really glad to see how much you’ve improved on the lathe, especially now that you’re using a metal lathe too! Keep up the great work
Believe it or not, I DID get the intro on the first try!! twitter.com/forby/status/976857622191202305
Are you going to make the beyblade stadium I asked
Cuz I always wanted those big ones in the anime in real life but it's not for sale ... at all
I Like To Make Stuff you are learning 😂
I wanted to see the outtakes 😠
I Like To Make Stuff hi bob, i am not a pro in wood turning but i habe one myself and have a litle experience. I just had an idea to your tour problem not getting the cylinders round the same the whole way, you could try to turm around the toolrest so the edge is facing you and the put some kind of a stop on the chisel to rest against the edge of the toolrest. Havent tried it out, but it might work or be a stupid idea. Greetings from switzerland, andri
LOVE this one, Bob. The style is right up my alley. Brass and Walnut are just a perfect combo.
Brass and walnut are now an unstoppable duo!
you are, without doubt, the real Clamp Champ!
🗜🏆
Today were gonna make - a coat rack. *throws hat* never change bob!
Brendan Weiner, I appreciate his time and dedication to the craft. He is inspiring.
I've been trying to convince my wife we need a coat rack for quite some time. Love the look of this one.
We go to antique shops quite often. Whenever I see an old coat/hat rack, I take pictures of it. One day I'll start trying to copy them. Thanks for the fine video.
So proud of you Bob for going out on a limb, taking a risk and learning something new. Bring it in for a BIG group HUG!
For a guy who's not too experienced in turning wood & metal, you did a great job dude.
The center shaft definitely looks cooler with the flats in it.
Love your stuff Bob.
Keep'em coming, and thank you.
A tip for getting cylinders on a lathe: Make sure your tool rest is in line your your cylinder as close as possible, now turn one part of your stock down to the desired thicknes, then mark the spot your tool rest and turning tool meet at your desired thicknes on your tool itself with some tape or marker, or even a small clamp as stop. Now, just try to keep your tool on that mark using your tool rest as a guide, if everything is set up right it will be a perfect cylinder. Hope this helps in future projects!
Really cool that you were able to combine the walnut and the brass, both turned in the same way!
My grandfather use to make coat hangers just like this, minus the brass. Our family loves them. Nice work
I never get tired of those Clamp Champ shots
Looks fantastic. I love the walnut and brass combo
I love walnut. it's light and then it's dark when you polish and treat it. great build.
I’ve never seen anyone use a lathe. That was so cool!! What an important and impressive tool. Maybe one day....
The brass tips are the perfect touch and complement that Walnut perfectly. Great idea on the jig for drilling those holes on an angle consistently each time. Adding that one to my bag of tricks. Thanks!
at 3:04 just noticed the etching on the handle. that face is priceless! made my day. good job Bob!
This is a nice looking coat rack, Bob. It's always cool to listen to you explain your builds. Even a duffer like me can understand what you are saying.
I can't believe you did the intro on the first try! Nailed it! It's great that you got to learn a lot on this project and thank you for taking us along on the ride!
Man, that brass really gives it that extra awesome look.
One very very very small tip is that you could have applied tape and tham drilled all the holes, this way you wouldnt need to tape it afterwards or cut the tape perfectly.
Amazing build amazing content and amazing skill set. Awesome channel
Just wanted to compliment your editing for these videos! I especially love how your sponsorship thing is in its own window outlined in orange, with a matching orange timer bar thing at the bottom of the screen. Simple, but it's a very nice touch. I wish everyone did stuff like that! Anyway, love your videos! Keep up the great work!
Brass and walnut is such a good look. Great job, Bob!
What really helped when I first started to use a lathe was to purchase one that supported a digital readout. Those little things are the best when it comes to accuracy!
The classic no look hat toss. Totally awesome.
Bob, something you can do, you have the horizontal pipe frame on your wood lathe. My father adapted a carriage, cross slide, & tool post to that pipe frame, that way he got the consistency of a machinist mill on his wood mill when turning full length cylinder shapes. No more free handing it. It also helped to turn precision cuts in steps like you would with a machinist mill.
Bob, thanks now I must do this. After working on my room this could add to it even more. Thanks clamp champ.
this may be my favorite of all of your projects. Very elegant...a stand alone work of art. And the drill press jig...wow! Good job, Bob.
Hey Bob, that's a great project! A quick tip for turning/truing up cylinders is to use a flat sanding block that's the length of your cylinder. Use the sanding block to knock down all of the high spots, just be sure to do it at a relatively low speed.
You should put the rack on a lazy susan, so people using it can easily retrieve their hats/coats even if they placed it on a peg facing the wall!
whoaaaaa such a good idea!
+
You can't beat brass and walnut combo! Looks great!
Turned out great. I had two kids make coat racks this year this year, but we drilled holes in the bottom of the pole and top of the base and pinned them together that way instead of trying to get a perfect mortise. I love how the Walnut looks with the brass. I like your solution to drilling the holes at an angle as well.
If I need it to be straight and not curvey I use a ruler and put it on it and use a contrasting piece of paper behind it to see where the high and low spots are located. I hope this helps your turning and keep up the great work!
Love the brass and wlanut together. It looks very elegent.
Idk if anyone said anything about making the cylinders straight. But someone told me that a way of achieving that is rocking your body sidways while you turn it, that way the angle/distance from the tool to the future cylinder doesn't change. Another way is to move both arms at the same speed, so the path of the tool is not an arch. But the principle is the same, maintain the angle/distance of the tool from the wood. Love your builds!
It’s always fun to watch Bob clamp the ever loving hell outta stuff.
Hahaha!
Wonderful combination, it looks very nice! You need to put a picture of it on the wall next to it so everybody can see what’s under the jackets 😄👍
It is incredible how you can make building something so exciting
That is a very nice build. I enjoyed this episode a lot!
Great project. Walnut and brass look so good together.
I am fascinated with your videos Bob, I can watch your videos all day ✌🏻
Great video again, Bob! These copper tops look amazing!
Wow! I think this is the most beautiful product you've ever made. It's stunning! Good job
Super glad you kept the octagon shape, really looks nice!! Well done, sir!
I wait every Thursday evening for your videos Bob. I am not a Maker but I like your craftsmanship and can-do attitude.
To avoid waviness, in my experience, I've always found that working from one end to the other in a consistent stroke works. It appeared in the video, you were going back and forth. Always love Walnut and brass together!
For the sizing and levelness of the cuts on the lathe, I have a ruler with zero centered below the point of the spindle and a brace that slides forwards and back.
You can get close to the radius and then bump it in slowly as it turns. Similar to the metal lathe. The measurements are on the handles though so you can sneak up on the right radius.
Older lathes May have some slop in the way they turn and actually whip the material around. In such cases, you can let it warm up and try again or if it’s too bad, it may need some repair...or a new lathe. Good excuse for a new tool or new project to build a lathe
Keep the videos coming. They are great! Thanks!!!
Hey Bob! , a tip on making the dowel the same is making a bigger knife chisel, grab a sheet of metal and sharpen it like a big knife and sit it flat on a surface which you push in to the dowel , adjustments can be made to the length of your piece
I can only imagine how long that first shot took you and I am sooo grateful
Our Clamp Champ, the Clamp Camp, clamps like a champ with his champ clamps.
Awesome looking coat rack! I’m sure others have said it, but putting sandpaper around a block of wood will give you a long straight edge you can use to sand the piece to one thickness. You can also just put a straight edge like a level against the piece to check yourself as you go. Great work! Keep finding projects on the lathe and you’ll be amazed at how quickly you get comfortable.
I love coat racks! That did come out great, the brass tips really make the whole design pop.
Love the walnut and brass, I made a cell phone stand with brass and walnut last year as an intro to metal and wood combo-ing. Great stuff bob
The best caliper when doing multiple pieces is actually an open end wrench. The larger flat surface and the fact that they don't deflect makes them ideal. Chair makers regularly use that trick for consistent tenons and spindles.
Walnut is such a beautiful wood.
For getting a straight line on a cylinder on the lathe, turn your piece down to slightly larger than you want it to be. Then, use a piece of 3/4" ply with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper attached to it to get it nice and straight. Works very well with rolling pins, also. For drilling on the lathe, get a set of pen jaws for your chuck. This really helps if you're drilling something that isn't exactly square. Make sure to use a long enough bit when drilling, so you don't have to flip the piece around and try to get both holes lined up. If you try making some pens on your lathe, it will help with turning down to a desired diameter very well.
I enjoyed watching this build. The entire time I was thinking better you than me.
Great looking coat rack! Love the look of Walnut. You're right - most of this is just practice... when I'm turning multiples I use a flat head carbide just like you did, cut down to close to the final diameter and then sand to the final measurement. If it's something you were going to be doing often I'd recommend a duplicating attachment for your lathe but as a one-off project you did great.
Surprised that foot was able to keep such a tall piece upright, definitely something I'll remember if I ever do something similar. Thanks!
Hi Bob this is Eli, great video and project! Really like how you are incorporating your lathe into the videos. But as you were saying about making the spindles straight, I actually have a pretty good tip. You might already know this but as you are cutting, every now and then take a ruler I like to use a metal machine ruler, but just set it on the top of the dowel and look and see if it sits straight on your piece and there are no gaps in between the wood and ruler. Then the spindle should be pretty straight. Hope you see this Bob, and maybe it helped a little bit.
I am only 13 and love woodworking and your Channel but with that said hope i helped!!
beautiful design, the brass looks fantastic against the walnut
Hat throw was epic!!
i made something like this back in high school shop class it was a lot of fun, i also made a tv stand, table and tool box
So the mess we saw in the Instagram stories was from this project. xD Anyway, great video again, Bob. Those brass tops look awesome.
Love the smile in the last two seconds.
For turning a cylinder, try using a skew. Everyone is hesitant, but they're not that bad to learn and can do some awesome stuff.
Problem solving at it's best. Love the drill jig. Looks great.
Great project. Brass makes everything look better! Keep up the great work!
That 'turned' out looking great Bob! har har Love the walnut with the brass tips. I have attached something to the shaft of the turning tool before so I know how far to cut, like a piece of blue tape or even a stop collar. When it hits the tool rest, I don't cut any further. It helps make the cylinder consistent thickness. Nice hat trick!!!
Awesome! Thanks Steve!!
Yeah, just take a few seconds to make sure the tool rest is parallel with the workpiece and it will get you in the ballpark.
Definitely the way to do it. I jumped on here to say the same thing but Steve beat me to it.
I was thinking the same thing but I’ve never tried it. Let us know if you try it Bob.
Hi Bob! Great work! A few tips about lathes :
1)to make an even cylinder on a wood lathe, just use a clamp on your cutter, it should hit lathe's support plank and limit the cutters movement (cutting depth). Of course, it's not as precise as a feed on metal lathe, but it does 90% of roughing for you.
2)On a metal lathe, download a Walter calculator app, it''s a great tool to decide, what speeds and feeds to use, seems that you are running on too low RPM, a common mistake.
Also, put away those soldered carbide cutters, and order some indexable, like MWLNR cutter for almost all external turning operations. With polished inserts (each has 6! workong edges) you'll get a nice, polished surface every time you use it.
If you want, I can make a short list of most used cutter shapes to order.
Thanks for the great job and videos!
Great looking project and always nice to push yourself with new things. I didn't want to read through the over 600 replies to see if it had been mentioned before, but have a couple of suggestions to consider. 1. A real easy way to make sure that you have exact rod dimensions on a lathe is to get a cheap open end wrench the size you want the end product and grind down the shorter end into a chisel point. You can then get close with your lathe tool and use the wrench to get the exact dimension all the way down. 2. You could have saved a little chisel work connecting the base to the pole by using a forstner bit on the base and rounding the pole to the same size. You probably did it right however, as it might be harder to get the pole round than to get the hole squared off. Looking forward to seeing more.
+10 points to Clagettpuff for nailing that hat toss.
I really appreciate the way you do sponsorships
Thanks Amanda!
I like how you made a flat bottom, no feet on the base, and the pole not a cylinder. I wanted to put antique acorn hangers on four sides of the top of the pole, staggered as you did. I was not confident that a flat base would hold up the weight of coats until I saw the measurements and the fact that you put a screw up through the bottom and used glue. It is, after all a good hardwood. Thank you for this presentation!
Couple tips for consistent diameter on wood turnings. 1. Take a wrench of the appropriate size, radius the tip of the lower jaw, sharpen the tip of the upper jaw. Bring the stock nearly to size, use the tool to cut a series of notches (as with bandsawing), use a flat nose scraper to bring the rest of the stock to size. Allow a few % of overthickness for sanding to final size. 2. Buy a caliper attachment for your lathe tool(s) and use as above. 3. Use that metal lathe of yours (when applicable). 4. Bring it close and sand to final size - they make sandpaper as coarse as 24 grit. I’d advise a longboard sanding block at a skewed angle to contact all the high spots when doing final sanding. Use common sense for holding the board and body positioning - they can sting when flung.
For perfect cylinders on the wood lathe you could 3D print collars that would fit around your chisels. Once you get the item close to the final size you can put the collar on and then push it against your tool rest. When you slide it along your tool rest you will get a perfect cylinder.
Mad props on the lathe work, it looks awesome!
My method for turning a straight, smooth line is to slide your whole body left to right, instead of your arms. This allows you to keep your chisel at the same angle to the wood during the whole pass. Also, make your passes in one direction only, i.e. left to right. Hopefully that helps!
Amazing job Bob! Learned some great tips in this one! Love your humility on being a new turner. Inspiring for those who have never done this!
That jig for the drill press is so cool!
Looks fantastic Bob! Love the brass and walnut contrast👍
Bob, your time and dedication to your craft, is inspiring. I appreciate your website, (since you and another youtuber) have inspired me to tap into my creativity, thanks again!
On the note of turning nice cylinders, high speed steel tools allow you to "bevel ride" and produce consistent shapes and greatly reduce the sanding process. Using a spindle roughing gouge to knock the corners off and a skew to get a final dimension works mighty nice. Just a few words of advice from one turner to another.
looks great, love the walnut and brass contrast.
I love the brass with the wood! A perfect project to learn a bunch of things :)
Best video in a while! Would love to see more stuff with the jointer and the lathe!
Bob, try using some adhesive backed sandpaper stuck to a piece of flat wood that matched the length of your work piece. That will let you sand the piece very flat to get rid of the waves.
Nicely done Bob! I especially like the drill press jig you guys came up with. Also, nice to see you make the leap to metal turning. I'm pretty obsessed with Click Spring videos and would love to try that out some day.
Pretty cool project and the design is pretty clean.
Another thing you could use instead of brass for the tips are 1/2 inch copper end caps that are for copper pipe that you can get from a hardware store if you can't get brass tips.You would just need to sand the dowels at the end to clearance it. It's very inspiring and I've got the itch to make something this weekend.
Hey Bob, first of all: great looking project at all, it turned out way better than I thought! To take turns on your wood turning question: I would recommend starting out at wood turning with one tool: the spindle gouge! The good thing with this tool is, that you can cut sideways pretty easy! A specially with using a wide gouge! You can use your passive hand near the tip of the tool, to hide the tool along the tale stock, which will eventually results in a rather straight line, and you might have a perfect and straight cilinder! I hope my spelling isn't to bad at all!😂 Greetings from Germany!
Wow, this turned out amazing. My favorite video, yet. (And I have been binge watching a LOT of your channel.)
Make sure the tool rest is straight with your piece and use it and your finger as a guide for depth. Holding your finger in a spot on the tool, just ride your finger on the tool rest as the depth gauge. This rack looks great!
YAY! metal lathe for the win.
Just a tip, when putting a price of metal that you have already used the metal lathe on, use a sticky note around it to protect it from the chuck
I love the walnut/brass look!
that 45º drill press jig was dope
The rack looks real nice! I wish I had these videos, and watched youtube when I was in highschool. I had a woodshop class where I had plenty of power tools to do these types of projects.
Phew, not gonna lie I held my breath a little when you cut that test block into an octogon and when you were drilling in to the dowels by hand. The result is gorgeous! I wish I had space for a lathe! I didn't know there was a dark wood glue, gonna check it out next time I'm at the hardware store.
Another great project Bob! Really glad to see how much you’ve improved on the lathe, especially now that you’re using a metal lathe too! Keep up the great work
Say it with me, "Turn down for what!?" Great job Bob.