How to replace motorcycle coolant
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- Опубліковано 9 чер 2013
- This is an overall review of how a water-based motorcycle cooling system works. Special emphasis is placed on how to burp the cooling system so that air pockets in the cooling jacket will be mostly evacuated before the engine overheats. The risk of permanent engine damage from an inadequately burped cooling system are discussed. The mechanism by which the radiator cap works in a closed cooling system is also discussed.
Ethylene glycol, the most common constituent of antifreeze, will last a very long time. However the anti-oxidant additives contained in modern coolants are depleted much more quickly, and harmful impurities can build up in the system and damage sensitive engine parts. So, coolant should be replaced at regular intervals. The 1995 VN800 Vulcan manual calls for replacement of motorcycle coolant every two years.
To understand how the radiator cap draws fluid from the coolant recovery tank into the main cooling system, watch this video.
• Hidden genius behind a...
If you are bewildered by the wide selection of coolants, and worried about mixing different types of coolant, watch the following video.
• Video
For a discussion of how an automotive water pump works, and an inside look at the weep hole, watch the following video.
• Inside a chevy water p...
This is an amateur demonstration done for entertainment purposes only. The video comes with no guarantees as to safety or accuracy, and it is NOT a qualified instructional video. Before deciding to work on your own vehicle, search for information from multiple sources and consider involving a professional. Motorcycle repair is a potentially dangerous activity, and complication are to be expected and planned for.
Thunderclap sound used under Creative Commons 3.0 license, done by RHumphries at freesound.org/people/RHumphries/ - Авто та транспорт
I have been restoring motorcycles for over 32 years and that is the most professional do-it-yourself video I have ever seen on UA-cam. Everything you said was exactly right and the exact way it should be done. I would like to personally thank you for showing the public a perfect do-it-yourself video.
Gee, what a kind remark, thank you so much. Really, you made my day.
THANK YOU! I have a 93 Vulcan 800 that has taken me across the US, through Canada to Alaska and back and still going. Your videos have been lifesavers on the workings of my Kawasaki. I’ve sometimes viewed them literally on the side of the road while doing a repair. You are the only Vulcan 800 UA-cam. They are excellent! Thanks again.
Thanks for posting. Just picked up a used 2006 Vulcan 900, and going through the process of fluid changes. This is a good help.
This video saved my butt. Had my "96 Vulcan 800 serviced and some clutch work done. Tech forgot to refill coolant. Had the wife out on our anniversary and got a temp light about 50 miles from the house. Stopped at a gas station and watched this vid. Lucky it was cold out and I was two blocks from an Auto Zone. Bought an 8mm wrench, coolant, and funnels. We went to lunch and let the bike cool, then filled it up and we were back on our way. Saved me a tow and an angry wife. Thanks!
Great, thanks for the followup story. Be sure to check levels again in a few days, since trapped air can clear slowly and need a refill. Also if the reservoir isn't refilling you want to check to be sure there are no cracks in the hose or rad cap that could interfere with automatic refilling.
These videos are some of the most genuine and helpful ones I've come across for my amateur attack on repairing my vulcan. Thank you.
What a kind remark, thank you.
just bought 96 VN800 classic, no owners/service manual. and after 33kms run, no fan movement. so Y-Tube help me out. very helpful and clearly defined process. thanks. kev.
+kevin Doyle Thanks for the feedback. For the benefit of other readers, I'll mention that the fan doesn't come on until the coolant is at operating temp. On my bike up here in Canada, it isn't unusual to have no fan action for the first 20 minutes, or even longer. Usually it would come on after 33 km but in the winter, maybe not. Of course you can isolate and then hotwire the fan input to see if the fan works when fed with power. I got a paper manual from Kawasaki but it's not a great manual, fairly minimal.
Thank you for your time, video, and help. People like you help so many of us. Planning on fallowing your instructions for my 2007 1600 Classic. Hope they are still similar. Again. Very much appreciate your work and video help.
I really like your videos. You show me all that needs to be done. I'm not afraid to do the work, but I normally don't know where to start. Thanks for your time showing us what we need to do.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you liked it.
I'm glad you liked it, and thank you back for the reply.
just bought an 96' vn800 classic, thank you for your video, it's helpful as it's my first watercooled motorcycle.
One thing I forgot to mention is that while burping and refilling fluid with cap off, it is worthwhile to sit on the bike and gently rock it to left and right to allow air pockets to clear. When the bike is on a side stand like it is, there is a high air pocket that won't clear until the bike is tilted side to side.
Good job and Thank You!
I love receiving competent concise instructions like yours that teach me what i need to know without annoying amateur showmanship.
Bravo!
I've just recently bought my first big bike, a vn800 classic and was lost as how to check the coolant level. I'll be doing it tomorrow thanks to this video. Thanks!
It's a great bike, thanks for watching.
Excellent video! Thanks I have a 1995 Vulcan 800 and it’s so reliable and still looks like new , I really like to maintain it .
You asked how the fluid gets back into the system from reservoir, well when engine cools the pressure turns to vacuum and pulls it back into engine which I'm sure you already knew that and you were just quizzing us. Thanks for you videos makes working on my sons bike a breeze by knowing what to do. And i would have never even thought about much less know how to clean the screen! Thanks again
+Michael Davidson Exactly right, thanks for watching! I did a video where I took apart a radiator cap, showing the two opposing springs that are designed to take advantage of that swing in pressure, automatically purging the system of air yet providing a safe release. The guys who invented the system were brilliant.
+spelunkerd Thanks and yes they were!
Just Bought A 2002 Vulcan 800 Learning Alot Watching Your Videos , Thanks Apireciate It !
Your video is exactly what I needed. Was about to remove tank, so thank you.BUT I still have to remove tank. There wasn't an opening on 2004 vulcan 2000.
1600 classic, here about to do this or am i gonna have your problem
Great video, very well edited.
I don't know if you guys mentioned it, but antifreeze attracts critters because it's sweet, but it's also very toxic to them...
Nicely done. I just did mine on a Vulcan 900 following your instructions. Slightly different locations here and there but was easily able to figure out where everything was. Also noticed some dried up residue around the weephole, guess I'll have to keep working on it but just glad to see the problem before it becomes a serious issue. Tanks spelunkerd!
where is the drain plug on the vn 900?
Awesome, Informative video. I recently purchase a 04 1500 Classic and am going through and making sure all the maintenance is up to date and taken care of. Great job and thank you.
Thank you. See if you can find a dealers repair manual for your exact model. I get one for every vehicle I own.
Very clear videos you make, with good explanation! Could you also do a carburator cleaning / revising video 😁
Thanks body for the information, i didnt know anything about oil change and coolant change after i watch ur videos,i just bought my 1st bike like 2 months ago,and i had no idea if i was running out of coolant oil or what, i was gonna take it to a shop for them to do it,but is too expensive, but with ur videos iam gonna save some money,i need to do it like now,before it breaks down,my bike is 99 kawasaki vulcan classic.thanks a lot.
Nice clear instructions, I just did an oil and filter change after watching your video on my 1998 Vulcan VN800 Classic , it seems quite easy to replace the coolant as well.
Thank's for sharing anyway::::
Thank u so much. I just begin to replacing the coolant on my Vulcan 2005 in a wrong wrong way. But with your video now I go the right way.
Thanks for the feedback, I hope it goes well for you.
I just got a 2006 Vuclan and the videos you showed got me started with changing my own fluids...thank you for being so detailed.
Great bike, you'll be glad you bought it. Thanks for stopping by!
Awesome videos, thanks for all your advice
Thanks for the feedback, I"m glad it helped.
i just purchased a VN 800 , your video's are terrific , thanks Rick
Thanks, man, I'm glad you find them helpful. It's a great bike, I've had very little go wrong with it over 21 years.
Very well explained and illustrated!! Thanks a lot for spending your time showing us this.
regards
J. Merino
Thank you, very informative and a huge help! I will be doing this to my bike tomorrow!
Very clear instructions for the coolant and oil changes. Thanks!
Very detail and informative. Big thanks on all of your videos.
You're welcome, thanks for the encouraging feedback.
Have the same bike 2000 thanks for the video been wanting to change mine for some time now.
Great video. Answered a burning question- what that hole was next to the engine coolant drain - a weep hole! Makes total sense. Just bought this 95 VN750 and was thinking that hole in the bottom of the engine was a sign of trouble. Thank you - Good Job 😀
Only guys who have worked on cars will recognize what that hole is for, others will wonder. What I find rewarding about learning how these systems work is the remarkable overlap from one system to another. Cooling systems in particular are both fascinating and a common point of failure in all vehicles. Thank you for the feedback. I wish I could do more motorcycle repairs, but this Vulcan has been so reliable through the years that I haven't had anything serious go wrong.
This was tremendously helpful. Thanks very much for breaking it down so well.
walter ramalho Thanks, man.
Great video, very detail oriented. I wonder where I can get those funnels and suction kits.
Well done & I will subscribe. I had my own shop for 40 yrs - still do some wk in retirement - but I'll ck out videos like yours before doing a job - helps in determining my time to charge & to become refreshed with a particular bike ( I only work on the Japanese makes ). Thanks
Cool video. I learnt a couple of things from it. I have a Vulcan S myself and I will apply the learnt tricks to mine. Thanks foe the time.
Thank you, Just got 2000 Vulcan yesterday so now I'm trying to figure out if all my fluids are good enough to ride till my book comes in from amazon in a few days.
***** Great bike, you'll like it. Congratulations!
thank you so much for the quick respond, i will do the test that you recommended
thanks again you are awesome
Great answer. In the linked video at the bottom description, I take apart a rad cap and show the two seals and two springs that allow intermittent two-way traffic, both ways, just using thermodynamic forces that are already there. The guys who invented the rad cap, many decades ago, were geniuses.
Hello ☺️ I didn't go thru all the comments, but I have a couple questions. Keep in mind, I'm a newbie. So, my bike has been sitting for a couple weeks... (I haven't even ridden it yet, a friend has a few times as he's been housing it for me and doing some work on it) . Out of curiosity I was tinkering around. When removing the radiator cap, that area, the neck?, was bone dry. Normal?? Also the larger hose coming into the neck has corrosion all around where it connects... Normal?? I couldn't judge the coolant level, as I can't see thru the dirty hose. It also kinda looked like there was a ring of coolant around the weep hole. I have a 97 800 Classic.... Roughly how much coolant does yours hold? When I go to drain it, I am curious if I can tell immediately if it's low... Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing your feedback. ☺️
@@kimberlyannhughes7855 The level can be down a little but normal would be completely full, and it should not be rusty inside. Check out the rubber seals in the rad cap, if there are any cracks at all, replace the cap. Pry that small valve on the bottom open with your fingernail, make sure its not stuck down or frozen. Make sure the tubing leading to the coolant reservoir is free of pinhole leaks. Fill the rad right up to the top with coolant or distilled water. If not sure about the weep hole, clean it off well with brake clean, wipe it dry, then reexamine after a drive cycle to be sure it is not presently leaking. If it is, take it to a shop.
@@spelunkerd Okay, I'll follow through with that and see where I'm at then. THANK YOU!! ✨
@@spelunkerd what were your thoughts on the corrosion at the connection point of the radiator neck and the large incoming hose from the radiator? (By corrosion I mean it's like a dry fluffy foam like substance protruding out and around the connecting point) ☺️
@@kimberlyannhughes7855 If a hose has been leaking slowly, the water evaporates to leave a white powder, often with a hint of the underlying color of the coolant. So, I'd clean the area carefully, inspect the hose, and replace that segment or maybe cut off a bit of the end so you have a fresh connection. You may want to replace the hose clamp as well.
Very informative! Thanks for posting this.
You're welcome. Learning auto repair is a process, and there are often bumps in the road as you gain experience. I love doing it, but as shown in the videos there are risks that you need to accept if you do your own work. Try not to get all your knowledge from one source, so that your education is as complete as possible. Good luck!
Few comments Dave! First, very good quality of detail in your video along with some good tips all throughout. I know very little about motorcycles and would have never known about pulling the top assembly to get to the radiator cap. And now for the most important question. How in the world do you work in shorts with your bare knees on the concrete? Smiling...
Thanks, Terry. A quick task without much chance of getting dirty, it wasn't worth changing.
It's surprising how much engineering is borrowed from other systems.
great video, thanks for the insights and cheers from germany!
Thank you. Really straight forward.
Super video. Thanks for the explanation
Another fantastic video ! your the best man thank you
Great video and very helpful.
A very well done video, thank you for doing it.
Thanks for the very well explain video. It was very helpful
Seriously great vid and explanation.
I love your videos! Your my Vulcan guru.
Nice vid, clear concise and informative. Off to change my coolant!!
I'm glad it helped, good luck!
really great job on this!! had to replace my clutch and this was very helpful in filling the coolant system properly!!
Thanks. Next time, do a video (grin).
Dave
spelunkerd, I got a little of it :) ua-cam.com/video/Djp3_SXM4TQ/v-deo.html
Very clear and helpful video! Bravo and thanks!
+Linda Starkweather Thank you.
Awesome just what I wanted to see thank you I appreciate it
Excellent video sir. Thanks. I’m hoping that it is similar with my 1500 .
There are more similarities than differences in most of these. You should try to get your hands on a dealer service manual for your bike, it is a worthwhile lifetime investment that will pay you back for years to come. Ebay often has inexpensive pdf copies, if you can't find a free one somewhere.
Thankyou very helpful video iv just bought kawasaki el 250 1991 not sure about cooling system so will use what you showed us on that...
Most of these are similar but there will be a few differences that you may see in a different model. Try to get your hands on a dealers repair manual for more specific advice pertinent to your bike. Good luck!
Thank you so much!
Nice work👍
Good instructions. Thanks a lot!
great video, very helpful
any idea why my vn88 1994 would be shooting way to much white smoke from exhaust and backfiring?
thanks
+vilfranc2026 White smoke is classically caused by coolant contaminating the fuel causing excessive water vapor in exhaust. The thing I would worry about is the chance of a head gasket leak, which is one of the more common causes. If coolant is getting into fuel, then often combustion products can be found in the air inside the cooling system, and there is a gas tester you can use to easily prove that. You carefully put the tester onto the open rad cap and if there are combustion products in coolant then the liquid tester turns yellow. Don't burn yourself. Let's hope it's something more innocent, like condensation of water in fuel from winter storage.
Best video and instructions ever
Really great video, thanks for making. I have a kawa so Im sure this will prove invaluable at some point in the future =)
I'm glad it helped. Even if you don't own this exact model, there are more similarities than differences when you work on other bikes.
Excellent video
Thanks you solved my problem . Great video.
I appreciate the feedback, thank you.
Good video. Thanks. Suggest taking off watch - could scratch your paint.
muito bom! fiz como no vídeo, deu tudo certo e ficou ótimo com minha vn800 95'. Obrigado 👍
Gracias! You may like the motorcycle repair playlist I made, all videos are of the bike we both own.
Nice vid - I just wish my system/components were as clean and easy to see :-)
Thx for this video
appreciate the info...
Thanks Sir.... very well explained.
Thanks!
super cool video keep them coming
Hey it's a great video. Thanks so much. I have a question. I have a coolant leak from where the thin hose (connected to the filler cap) connects to the bottom reservoir. The hose seems okay but what do you think it causes the leak? I remove the hose from the reservoir nipple and the coolant shoots upwards from the nipple where the hose fits. 🤷♂️
If the fluid inside is under pressure, I'd check the integrity of the radiator cap, looking carefully at the seals and both valves. I wouldn't hesitate to replace both the radiator cap and the hose if there is any evidence either is bad. I did a video on how those caps work, they have two one way valves that point in opposite directions. Pressure shouldn't be able to force its way through the cap to the filler hose unless radiator pressure is too high or if the seal for the cap is cracked. Look carefully at the hose, even a pinhole leak can mess up the siphon mechanism for refilling, just like a tiny hole in a straw will not allow you to use a straw to drink water. When refitting the hose clamps, put them on in exactly the same position since if they are slightly offset the hose may leak. Also route the hose very carefully, you don't want to kink the hose. Good luck!
muy bien, videos como estos ayudan mucho , saludos
muchas gracias!
Great job of leading us through a confusing chore. What about the water pump? Do you open the water pump drain plug, and if so, do I have to remove anything to get at it? Keep those videos coming. Thanks for your efforts.
+Gary Murray I've not replaced the water pump on my bike, but if I do I'll roll the camera.You might start with a dealers manual, which frequently offers a step by step approach to the procedure. If you get fluid out the weep hole, it's time, but other problems are less clear because trapped air can be confusing. Yes, normally with a water pump it's wise to drain the rad fluid first, so you don't make a mess when hoses come off.
Well I hope this helps with my 2015 model... As the expantion tank hose split and was wondering how to get fluid up the hose..
You got it. Like a straw, even a tiny pinhole is enough to break the suction and prevent automatic burping. You can assess how full it is by opening the top radiator cap, and if you fill from there you'll get a head start on completely filling it. Then sit on top and rock the bike from side to side to get the air pocket burped, preferably with engine running. Only thing is, never open that cap when engine is hot. Once open, it is then safe to run the engine to warm. Automatic burping takes many days to complete so you want to get it close before relying on that.
Very clear and well done!
Thanks!
Great job with the video.
Thx for your tips man i appreciate them a lot.
No problem, thank you for the followup.
Now on i'll follow you up thanks again,i'm in Montreal,Canada
Great video highly detailed well done
Thanks. Today we have 6" of snow, so I haven't thought much about biking lately, ha ha.
Hi, Thanks for the video, Very helpful, Could you please let me know where that little white bottle with a house on the front left of the rad connects, my one fell and i haven't a clue where she connects, If you could just make a little video PLEASE, Thanks very much
Go to my channel, send me a private message with your email address. I'll reply back.
You are so underrated!! The best!!!
What happens if I undo the drain plug and nothing comes out... Plus when I add coolant it doesn't really burp/go into the system.. I am assuming something is clogged. do you have any suggestions where to start with this??
The critical issue is oil. If level is good, and oil is warm, it should definitely come out. I would get a copy of your dealers repair manual to be sure you have the correct plug. Cool oil can sludge, it may be better warm, if so I would do a few back to back oil changes to flush it out.
Regarding coolant, the system has to go through a few warm/cool cycles to completely burp. If it’s not overheating it is probably OK.
Well done thank you. I have a Vulcan 800 Classic. Same procedure I'm sure. How old was your Bike when you fist changed your coolant.?
Jimmy Cogan A few years. When you change your oil, look closely at how the oil screen is positioned, since a few other viewers, with different bikes, have described their screen being in the other way around. (see the video on my channel of changing oil). Their remarks are in the thread for that video. My bike was the way I show it from the factory, and I am the original owner, with nobody working on it before me. The OEM manual shows it goes in the way mine did, but those remarks made me think that other (newer?) bikes may be designed differently.
smart man, very clear.
Thanks!
It really helped a lot, save from Brazil haha
Great video!
Thanks, man.
muy buen video muchas gracias por compartirlo
You're welcome, thanks for the followup.
great job thank you.
Thanks much for vid and stressing the importance of burping. Takes a little patience but is so important. Good job. Jerry
Thanks!
I remember working on my first car (Chevrolet Chevet) And learning that as the car started heating up. The liquid would start lowering. Then Id add more as it lowers. GOOD POINT. to add to the video for others that have never learned that.
Yeah, it's even more important for cars, where the volume of trapped air can be much larger. Of course after a few hot/cold cycles the system should eventually burp itself, but a lot of damage can be done in the first hot cycle.
Thanks for the reply also.
So many videos I have left comments on and its like No one watches or bothers with them after uploading videos. So Thanks
I’ve gotten a lot of air out of my vehicle cooling systems by squeezing the radiator hose while I’m running it to burp it. Be very careful. It may be hot. Keep long hair, loose clothing, and hands away from fan and belt.
I had a van with a rear heater. They can be a bugger to get the air out and can even cause a air lock which can overheat the engine. Ask me how I know.
Awesome video, very informative. I just bought a 96 vulcan 800 and the coolant seems a little sludgy, any advice? Thanks so much!
Sludge is bad news in a cooling system. In the old days we would run a garden hose through the system, but you can't do that any more because you need to recycle the waste fluid. If it were my system I would drain it completely and replace with distilled water, run the engine for a short while, then completely drain it again. You can buy cheap distilled water at Walmart in the grocery section, or buy deionized water from an autoparts store for a little more. If you flush with distilled water three times, most of the sludge should be gone. You can also buy coolant descalers that might do a better job than distilled water, but be sure to follow directions since you don't want to damage passageways. Descalers are mostly acid based, causing calcium deposits on the sidewalls to ionize into Ca+2, H20 and CO2. Too long and your engine wall can be damaged. If you do that, remember to flush it all out with a big volume of distilled water later. The other thing to consider is whether the previous owner put stop leak into the cooling system. That reduces leaking but also causes sludging that can't be good for the system. Hopefully there wasn't an underlying reason he might have done that.
gracias es un tutorial muy practico
Gracias!
My drain bolt is sheered off completely or it is a non removable plug on my 1998 1500 classic and Clymer wants me to drain it from the rad and the drain plugs on each cylinder. Did you pull the plug from underneath and add a bolt or did it come stock? It looks so much easier on your video.
The drain bolt came stock. I am the original owner, and it's a vehicle that hasn't spent a lot of time outside of the garage so corrosion isn't too bad. Bad luck about the sheared drain bolt! If the sheared drain bolt isn't leaking you could live with it, draining as needed from the radiator and perhaps replacing fluid a little more often, recognizing that you aren't completely replacing old fluid each time. If you really need to replace that bolt you might have to drill it out or weld a nut on the end of the bolt stub, and then remove and replace the broken stud with a helicoil or timesert. However there are risks to any procedure and I would try to avoid doing that if you can. You might want to verify that the bolt you've identified is in fact the correct drain bolt for your bike, since it may be easy to get that one wrong. I use the original factory service manual for my bike, but those are expensive and generic copies like Alldata and Mitchell don't do manuals for bikes. Ebay might be a source for a copied disc version of the original factory service manual. Good luck!
Thanks for demystifying the cooling system. I would like to see taking to speedo off though.
Oh, you mean how to undo the speedo cable. It just spins off with your fingers, right hand threads. Thanks for watching!
Oh, by the way, I did a separate vid of how to replace a broken speedo cable, if you are interested.
Thanks for sharing . I have a mean streak 2003 , after owning it for bout 2 months now , the coolant is leaking out from a hose that comes out of the motor
First step if you can do it is to get hold of the dealers repair manual. Sometimes you can find pdf copies online, or maybe in disc form on ebay. Don't delay, good luck!
Thanks for another great video. First what I found was the oil change, when I was looking how to change engine oil in my VN800 2004 :) I have Haynes manual but I don't want to remove rear wheel to remove my coolant reservoir... Will stick to your advice and just replace the coolant like you did :) Any advice how to replace fork oil in our vulcans? :)
It's been so long since I've done it I can't teach that procedure.
I just came across this video. It is a great video! Unforunately...I accidentally sheared the drain plug :( I was being careful when tightening the bolt, but I guess it was ready to go. I was wondering if you had any advice of what to do. I've seen suggestions of using a reverse drill bit to get the remainder of the plug out. The problem is that I don't know what to do to replace it. Do you happen to know the size of the bolt I would need to replace it? Is there a gasket of sorts also? Any information would be much appreciated!
Ryan Rossi If the bolt is holding fluid well, you should ask yourself if you really need to remove and repair it. I would probably leave it if that's an option. You can drain coolant from bottom hoses pretty well.... This kind of problem is common, and there is an algorithm with lots of specialty tools to approach it. The easiest situation is where enough of the bolt sticks up to be able to grab it and twist out. A second option is to weld a stub onto the bolt and then twist that. It seems tricky and it involves special skills and tools, but sometimes it works great. A third option if the bolt is sheared flat is to drill a hole through the center of the bolt and then use a device called an 'easy out' to back it out. Yes, easy-outs have either left handed threads or flutes that permit you to back out, and you can buy special cobalt drill bits with left hand threads. However the name is a misnomer, they are NOT easy. I find the biggest challenge is to remain centered, and threads are usually damaged requiring a helicoil thread repair after. If there is a way to remove the whole bottom pan of your bike, it would make the work safer and easier to do on a bench without worrying about what you could harm deeper inside. Good luck!
+Ryan Rossi first.. a bolt works because the threads put pressure on the head of the bolt to the body... so.. if no head...no pressure.. normally the bolt body...(threads) will turn easily out.. you would just need a sharp object and slowly work the bolt body out... then take that body to a local hardware store and test it against other metric bolts... I do not believe there is a special gasket on the bolt or you would have seen that when the bolt sheared...