Don't Kill Your AGM! Proper voltage without a smart charge controller
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2022
- If you don't supply the right amount of power to your AGM battery, you can end up killing it way before its time! In addition, you won't have the amp hours off grid that t he battery is capable of! This method will supply the proper voltage to the battery.
Diode that works for Land Cruiser: amzn.to/3vNxKan
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Thank you so much for posting this. Any concerns about potential over-voltage (charging at too high of a voltage) by using that diode? I would truly appreciate a little more info on how that setup works, how it’s safe, any risks, etc. Again, thank you.
In my 2008 RAV4 the alternator charges at 14.1 to 14.4 just the way it is so I guess I am all set to install my AGM, thanks for the video
I bought the Odyssey smart charger for my Odyssey AGM and put it on the battery every couple of months. Been holding strong!
Hey Mikey! I liked it a lot. I will definitely look into stepping up the charge to 14.5 volts. Thank you very much. Cheers, Mate.
I'm really confused, how does a diode increase the voltage of the alternator? I'm pretty sure that fuse that you replaced wasn't limiting voltage. Is maybe the fuse going to the voltage regulator or something. I guess I'm funny I like to know why something works the way it does.
You aren't funny in your thinking.
This is an awesome "Pro Tip"! Thanks so much for sharing this. I'm going to see what my 4Runner is doing to charge my battery and I may need to do this swap too!
I miss you
We love your content. We are thinking of going AGM in our GX and would like to boost our charging voltage on our but we are not sure removing a fuse from a system is a good idea! There are some high quality diode/fuse combos made that might be better as they afford fused protection. ArclightLED has one.
First time viewer, first impressions, seems like an awesome channel I'm going to have to come back and check it out.
Great video and explanation. I am going to buy a AGM battery if my 2001 BMW 530i battery ever fails. I am using a PulseTech PowerPulse passive battery desulfator on it to keep it working longer, Pulse Tech states that there patented frequency used to desulfate a battery can extend battery life by up to three times.
I have a 30 amp mini fuse for my ALT charge circuit. 98 Ford, 130A Alt. I found the Ford 1A mini Diode on Bezo's site. My only concern with this, is the higher amperage,no fuse, and just the diode. Will the diode handle that current? Can you or any of your subs here, tell me if I have a valid concern or not? Thanks in advance!
When i put the AGM on my 5th gen 4R last year, that was the pro tip i picked up from the T4R forum :-)
Great video, what’s the one I can get for a 2017 jeep jk? Thanks
Sorry to say I was charging a lead acid and my new AGM diehard battery with the same battery charger at the same time. I did this for about 2 months. Both batteries are not right now. The AGM will charge ok but after one start of the van it will quickly lose volts. I tried charging it fully then using my reconditioning mode on my charger. It won't charge above 10 volts or so. On a regular AGM charger it will charge to 15 volts but quickly drops to 12 volts. Any way to fix this? I've since bought a new AGM but was wondering. Also now my new alternator won't charge over 12.5 volts or so.
Any suggestions?
i have a 200amp 10bb solar pannel on top of my roof top tent hooked to a 40.00 20amp renogy charge controller and a 100 ah agm battery, i stay out weeks at a time overlanding with fridge running non stop and run up to 4 20 wt led pod lights
I would need an explanation here. Making electrical recommendations like this WITHOUT it , a little dangerous in my opinion.
The absolute best thing I ever did with my AGM house battery is replace it with a LiFePO4 battery in the cab.
How did you size it? 100ah to 100 ah or did you change the ah capacity, also how many cca? Thx i waould like to do this
@@ktcjosh I could only fit about 50 ah useable for agm batteries but in the cab I used two renogy 170ah batteries giving me 340ah or 4,200 watt hours.
I would like to comment on how much better the land cruiser runs... with the keys! 🤣
my 80 uses ato/atc standard fuse sizes your link is for mini type. do you have a link for standard fuse size??
nice hack thanks
Yay!
Love the channel please keep doin the Lord’s work sir! I’m nervously building a 2000 2wd 4Runner and hope to join yours and this community soon!!!
We’ll be here for ya!
Now what to do if you have one 'wet' lead acid battery and one AGM battery? Also, might the increased voltage potentially be detrimental to the car's electronics?
You can't have different batteries. The Wet will leech power from the AGM.
Why does adding the diode increase voltage?
How come your thumbnail image for this video looks like Jack reacher trying to work on a car🤣
Trying?! I'm so offended! Hahahahaha
This does not work on 3rd gen Tacomas, btw. They use an ECU controlled alternator. Which means that if you want to change the output voltage to the battery for an AGM battery, you must get an ECU tune like OVTune.
Has anybody actually successfully done this? I've never actually found anybody confirming they've been successful
@@mrchaneyrc I would assume not due to an alternator being either internally or externally regulated. He’s talking about externally regulating it & you would need an alternator that’s externally regulated to do that. Meaning, you can’t externally regulate an internally regulated alternator.
@@ijonnyproBest bet to just upgrade the altanator that meets the demand of the battery?
@@junballs6576 I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish from this but hopefully, I can better explain to get you on the right track.
If your vehicle has a "smart" alternator, that means its being regulated by an ECU. Meaning, that the only time your battery takes power supplied from the alt is when that ecu tells it to.
Now to answer your question: Upgrading the alt will serve no purpose by providing more power due to that pesky ecu. If your only concern is upping your overall voltage for an agm battery, yes, technically you can buy a custom alt like a high output alt and request them to dial that voltage to what you want. However, to me that seems a bit much just for that. Especially since it's possible to externally regulate the alt voltage via a regulator (caution is needed with that btw it can fry all your electronics if done improperly).
So, long story long, if you want to up the voltage just for an agm's "health" I wouldn't bother doing anything as it doesn't really matter. If you're looking for an increase in power cause idk maybe you want to add some beefy sound system, you won't easily get past the ecu limiting the power. In that case, what I suggest would be researching lithium batteries (I can help with that also if you want).
Side note: That secondary battery he has under the hood is totally pointless as it's not much power for the price.
@@ijonnypro Thank you. Was doing some research these couple of days. You're on point. Was thinking on upping my stereo system & wanted to get my electrical done right before any stereo upgrades. There's so much to learn. Thank you.
Well dang if you got a generator on there you should probably upgrade to an alternator
Things that make you HMMM. Thanks for the info! OB#18,730
Forgot the keys...... You are human after all LOL
GET A POTENTIOMETER!!! The safe way to get whatever voltage you need for whatever set up you have!!! Btw 15.1 is ok for an AGM……
$800 you could have gotten probably more capacity from lithium if you know what you are doing for less
Not into lithium for this application.
Capacity ones are not great for starting battery but you could get some with high C rating for starting like he 8ah headway but I'd just run a lead acid for starting probably and lithium for storage but would be better in every way if you know what you are doing
I’ve got about 10 reasons to not go lithium for this application. Nothing wrong with lithium for certain things though.
Comment
This doesn't explain anything. A diode should DROP 0.6V roughly. You no longer have a fuse rated for 7.5 A - you are down to a diode limited to only 1 A before it burns out. None of this makes sense.
Why on earth Michael are you messing around with your cars systems? A diode? Neither 13,7 nor 14,2 is correct for a non-smart alternator. It should read 13,8V floating and 14,4V bulk-charge, both higher at lower temperatures.
CHECK YOUR ALTERNATOR OR ITS VOLTAGE/CHARGE CONTROLLER !!
Second this. On a cold start with ambient temps between 60F & 90F the voltage from a healthy alternator should be 14.4V
13.7V means either the rectifiers/voltage regulator are on their way out, or the brushes are toast.
@@timmturner It is true going back to the 70's
It is NOT true with the modern "smart" alternators.
I have a powerstar 200ah agm/sla 12v what's a full charge for it. I'm going to run a 5k 10k continuous peak power inverter. Thank You.