my favorite thing about rock climbing is how strong you can get while still looking very slender. When I first started I was worried I'd look like a body builder. You are a perfect example of this! Very beautiful yet so strong!
I got to this vid by accident, and thought it was gonna be filled with bloopers. But after watching you train, I was blown away by your stamina! Like the other guys commenting, I too was quickly singing your praise not only about your killer body, but also how effortless you do it all. And yet, you speak of your training in a matter-of-fact way and remain humble. You're the epitome of beauty, intelligence, and grace, with the common touch and the ability to still whip anybody's butt!
Galina your an animal! I just started climbing. I hope it's normal that all day at work I thought about climbing and now laying in bed I'm just watching climbing videos. Climbing tomorrow, thanks for the training tips!
I've been climbing since I was 9 ( Quit'd a while ) and start over , now I follow your trainingtips, I can feel myself become stronger , Keep up the good work!
Hey, thanks so much! When I was training for comp season, I would alternate a day of deadhangs/pull-ups with a day of climbing/campus rungs/rock rings, with a rest day every weekend. Right now I train and climb (1 hour training to 1 hour climbing) every other day, with a rest day every weekend. When I started out I could do 5 pull-ups, and only because I'd done gymnastics for a few years. But if you're new to climbing, I'd focus more on technique over strength training!
Really great video! This is going to help me develop a workout for my university's climbing team. One thing I would like to point out is that when you perform pull-ups (uneven, frenchies, etc.), it is very important to complete the full range of motion for the exercise. Instead of stopping your downward motion before full extension, try extending all the way down before pulling back up. This will help you maintain mobility in your shoulders and lats as you progress.
Excellent video training diary! It helped that you wrote out how you program things. I was MOST impressed with your double clutching on the campus board. Looks like you were made for climbing.
You are absolutely incredible! Thank you so much for all the great workout ideas. I just got into climbing again in the past 6 months and am really trying to step up my level of training. I never used to be able to do pull ups or have very much upper body strength (i played soccer all of my life) and climbing has really forced me to build that and focus on balancing my strength all over. I will be following your videos, as a personal trainer as well new ideas like this will be fun to incorporate in my clients' fitness training. THANKS AGAIN :)
Thank you! Psyched to hear that you'll use some of this stuff for clients. I'm actually considering going into some form of personal training after I graduate c:
***** Definitely not everyday. Your body needs at least a full day to repair muscle fiber tears (just Google DOMS!) That's why body builders often alternate between arm, leg, and core days. Same with the grip training, especially if you want to preserve your tendons.
Galina Parfenov I know but it sounded like when you said in the summer you go climbing in the gym so because summer is when lots of climbers go outside so I thought you did not
Right now I climb every other day (power endurance and campus rungs). On the "off days" I either run, do a pulley workout, fingerboard, do antagonistic, or a combination of the four. I also do 30-60 minutes of core everyday and take rest days on weekends. You should experiment with different routines and see what works for you!
Im not a climber, I stumbled on this video while looking at some pullup training videos and I have one thing to say...YOUR AWESOME!!! Very inspirational video, makes me want to find a climbing gym around my area.
Don't have a training board or a pull up bar so did 80 press ups instead, will go bouldering tomorrow. Thanks for the motivation, I need to get strong !
Thanks Matt. I considered doing something similar, but am not handy at all, so I never pursued it. Thanks for the proof of concept. I always appreciate less expensive, creative alternatives. :) Let us know how they work, and if you discover any necessary modifications.
I just saw some other videos from your page. Great stuff and most of what I said like the pushups etc you mentioned as I read some comments. Great send on the at V11 btw, that climb looked awesome.
I currently do a similar workout (but with more campus rungs) every other day, with breaks or endurance sessions on weekends. When I was doing this specific workout, I would alternate a day of deadhangs/pull-ups with a day of climbing/campus rungs/rock rings, with a rest day every weekend.
Awesome!!! For the non-climbers watching, the pull-ups and back exercises here is the easier part (Note: Easier!!! Still extremely hard!). It's the finger strength to hold on to those holds she's using without popping a tendon, that takes years to train and really impressive.
Great work, young lady! I used to do some free-soloing, mostly in JTNP about 100 years ago (Rule #1: Never climb higher than you can go with a beer in one hand). Outstanding training vid!
You can make a less expensive substitute for the rock rings out of softballs. I just made some today. Drill a hole completely through the softball making sure to stay in the center. Insert an eye-bolt into the hole. Fasten it with a washer, a lock washer, and the appropriate nut. Faster and cheaper than buying the rock rings.
That some true inspiration right there. She got my inner climber to get out and try climbing - and while I'm not practice climbing in a routine I'm trying to incorporate it in my training when I can. Hopefully I can get more into this, it is really fun! =)
One more thing I realized about the homemade rock rings. The position of your fingers in relation to the bolt coming out of the top of the softball (ie. bolt between any finger or to either side of all your fingers) makes a big difference. With the bolt between the index and middle finger or between the middle and ring fingers, gripping the softballs is easiest. positioning the bolt between the ring and little fingers or all fingers to either side of the bolt is more difficult.
Thank you for making this video! I'm training for climbing after a back injury (disc herniation) and this gives some awesome ideas on how to intensify my training routine :-)
If you're new to climbing, the best thing you can do is climb. Training wise, maybe do pull-ups on jugs one or two times a week (coupled with push-ups), and lock-offs on big holds (eg. when reaching for the next hold on an easy route or problem, hover over the hold for 3-5 seconds before grabbing it).
Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I'm just getting back into climbi g and have been asking around and looking for tips but everyone is like "climb more" This is what I was looking for, thanks sis
hi galina i was wondering if you could send me a link for your training routine on a chart? your routine is excellent and i want to be able to be a much better climber than i am now and this routine would definitely help
That's an awesome training regime. Any tips for people who are new to climbing and trained for sports that are nothing like it from a muscle use stand point?
train every of your back and front muscles, while doing that train your core and lower muscles. It takes all the muscles in the body including hip adductor to split up and work together to get there. I tried doing upper only which was wrong now i do whole body training. It helps you do pull up better and easier.
I do antagonistic every other day, including push-ups, rows, dips, rear deltoid flys, bench presses, shoulder presses, and I's/T's/Y's. I focus more on shoulders than elbows though.
No worries, most people have trouble with those first time around. I would just focus on the frenchies for now. Or you can try using a pulley system to take weight off (I'll have a segment on it in the next training vid)
great video .. do you have your climbing workout typed out that i can print ? if so that would be great cause i would love to try it .. any help will be appreciated.
I'm going away to college in two months... I climb now at a gym near my home, mostly bouldering. My workout consists of doing squats, and different lifts with weights. I want to utilize my four months living on campus by going to the rock gym there and really kicking ass. What kind of workout routine would you keep weekly if you could go to the gym whenever you wanted, had personal space (I usually do yoga here), and access to a multimillion dollar gym on campus?
Awesome c: Same as I told Keith, until your tendons are strong enough to handle more rigorous workouts (takes about 2 years), the best thing you can do is climb. Training wise, maybe do pull-ups on jugs one or two times a week (coupled with push-ups), and lock-offs on big holds (eg. when reaching for the next hold on an easy route or problem, hover over the hold for 3-5 seconds before grabbing it).
Galina! I remember watching this so many years ago, you are amazing and your physique has changed so much and you just keep getting stronger and stronger! What do you think was the biggest changes you made over the years? Keep on keeping on!
I would start with regular pull-ups on a pull-up bar, alternating with push-ups. If you can't do a full pull-up, start with assisted ones (either with a rubber band for your feet or someone helping you up)
I find this wonderful. Thanks for sharing your stuff with the rest of the world. I would like to start climbing some day soon. I´ve been training bodyweight exercises for quite a bit and I have a good foundation. But maybe my bodyweight stops me from taking the decision to start no matter what...success and respect. Andrew!
thanks for the video and the inspiration. do you know where I can buy those round rock rings shown at the end of this video? i've seen the Metolius Rock Rings, but they are not spherical like the ones you use. thanks galina and congratulations on gusher! :)
Years later and this video is still super motivating. Thanks so much for sharing this routine with us. It inspires me to work hard.
my favorite thing about rock climbing is how strong you can get while still looking very slender. When I first started I was worried I'd look like a body builder. You are a perfect example of this! Very beautiful yet so strong!
I got to this vid by accident, and thought it was gonna be filled with bloopers. But after watching you train, I was blown away by your stamina! Like the other guys commenting, I too was quickly singing your praise not only about your killer body, but also how effortless you do it all. And yet, you speak of your training in a matter-of-fact way and remain humble. You're the epitome of beauty, intelligence, and grace, with the common touch and the ability to still whip anybody's butt!
Galina your an animal! I just started climbing. I hope it's normal that all day at work I thought about climbing and now laying in bed I'm just watching climbing videos. Climbing tomorrow, thanks for the training tips!
I've been climbing since I was 9 ( Quit'd a while ) and start over , now I follow your trainingtips, I can feel myself become stronger , Keep up the good work!
I spent my life training the lower half, and I'm pretty okay at climbing. I like your blog I wish I had group like you guys are awesome
AMAZING! Thanks or sharing! Need to catch up!
Great video, I like that every lock off or frenchy, your core is constantly rounded and in superb form, rare to see. Thank you for the video.
The one arm lock offs were incredible!!
Hey, thanks so much! When I was training for comp season, I would alternate a day of deadhangs/pull-ups with a day of climbing/campus rungs/rock rings, with a rest day every weekend. Right now I train and climb (1 hour training to 1 hour climbing) every other day, with a rest day every weekend.
When I started out I could do 5 pull-ups, and only because I'd done gymnastics for a few years. But if you're new to climbing, I'd focus more on technique over strength training!
Really great video! This is going to help me develop a workout for my university's climbing team. One thing I would like to point out is that when you perform pull-ups (uneven, frenchies, etc.), it is very important to complete the full range of motion for the exercise. Instead of stopping your downward motion before full extension, try extending all the way down before pulling back up. This will help you maintain mobility in your shoulders and lats as you progress.
Excellent video training diary! It helped that you wrote out how you program things. I was MOST impressed with your double clutching on the campus board. Looks like you were made for climbing.
I love you, I can't even do 10 pull ups without exhausting myself and you're doing all this insane exercise ! you are AWESOME
cool thanks, i'll try to check it out when i'm there in august!
Thank you! Training helped me progress from V6 to V9 last year, and V9 to V11 this year, if that's any motivation c:
Rescepta!
Galina Incredible¡¡¡¡ very inspiring¡ Welcome to Spain whenever you want¡¡¡¡
You are absolutely incredible! Thank you so much for all the great workout ideas. I just got into climbing again in the past 6 months and am really trying to step up my level of training. I never used to be able to do pull ups or have very much upper body strength (i played soccer all of my life) and climbing has really forced me to build that and focus on balancing my strength all over. I will be following your videos, as a personal trainer as well new ideas like this will be fun to incorporate in my clients' fitness training. THANKS AGAIN :)
Thank you! Psyched to hear that you'll use some of this stuff for clients. I'm actually considering going into some form of personal training after I graduate c:
Galina Parfenov
Hi do you do outdoor climbing?
Elkan Duong Of course! My first time climbing was at a local crag in CT. Gym climbing is just for training (-:
***** Definitely not everyday. Your body needs at least a full day to repair muscle fiber tears (just Google DOMS!) That's why body builders often alternate between arm, leg, and core days. Same with the grip training, especially if you want to preserve your tendons.
Galina Parfenov
I know but it sounded like when you said in the summer you go climbing in the gym so because summer is when lots of climbers go outside so I thought you did not
Right now I climb every other day (power endurance and campus rungs). On the "off days" I either run, do a pulley workout, fingerboard, do antagonistic, or a combination of the four. I also do 30-60 minutes of core everyday and take rest days on weekends. You should experiment with different routines and see what works for you!
You make it look effortless. I'm impressed!
Im not a climber, I stumbled on this video while looking at some pullup training videos and I have one thing to say...YOUR AWESOME!!! Very inspirational video, makes me want to find a climbing gym around my area.
Don't have a training board or a pull up bar so did 80 press ups instead, will go bouldering tomorrow. Thanks for the motivation, I need to get strong !
Thanks for the great video. Definitely will put it in to good use this summer.
I live half an hour away from prime climb, really awesome place!! If you're in CT, for sure check it out!!
Thanks Matt. I considered doing something similar, but am not handy at all, so I never pursued it. Thanks for the proof of concept. I always appreciate less expensive, creative alternatives. :) Let us know how they work, and if you discover any necessary modifications.
Do you have a PDF of your workout written out. It would be truly appreciated. Good work
Really great video Galina, fantastic strength. Wish you all the best. Looking forward to the next video. Carl.
great work!
I started simillar training because of endurance in climbing. Thanks for inspiration
Do you have anymore videos of your training this one is great! Keep it up :)
Wow....!! Outstanding! Just started bouldering- been twice- definitely gonna incorporate what I can from your vid! Thanks! 😊
That was a great vid! Nice clean camera shots, good workouts and neat editing! Thanks for sharing!
Wow! I am brand new to climbing. Gonna try your workout and see how I do.
I was not expecting much out of you, but after i saw how solid your pull ups were i was quite impressed.....nice work keep it up!
I just saw some other videos from your page. Great stuff and most of what I said like the pushups etc you mentioned as I read some comments. Great send on the at V11 btw, that climb looked awesome.
I currently do a similar workout (but with more campus rungs) every other day, with breaks or endurance sessions on weekends. When I was doing this specific workout, I would alternate a day of deadhangs/pull-ups with a day of climbing/campus rungs/rock rings, with a rest day every weekend.
Thank you for inspiration and motivation to do harder workouts!!
thanks! i started climbing not to long ago and you're inspiring me to continue to train everyday and it will hopefully pay off
Awesome!!! For the non-climbers watching, the pull-ups and back exercises here is the easier part (Note: Easier!!! Still extremely hard!). It's the finger strength to hold on to those holds she's using without popping a tendon, that takes years to train and really impressive.
Great work, young lady! I used to do some free-soloing, mostly in JTNP about 100 years ago (Rule #1: Never climb higher than you can go with a beer in one hand). Outstanding training vid!
Nice Video! Will try some of the stuff for my own. You have incredible strength
very inspiring!! just getting into rock climbing and trying to learn all I can! thank you!
THis is amazing you make pull ups look so easy your are truly and inspiration
Nice editing. Good aesthetic.
super inspiring and informing ! thanks for your help :))
You can make a less expensive substitute for the rock rings out of softballs. I just made some today. Drill a hole completely through the softball making sure to stay in the center. Insert an eye-bolt into the hole. Fasten it with a washer, a lock washer, and the appropriate nut. Faster and cheaper than buying the rock rings.
you've got an amazing upperbody strength mate. I cant even do a single pull up.
siva prasad start working out m8 😅
Daaanm that’s crazy, I don’t think anybody asked tho
@@Michael-cs3li k
That some true inspiration right there. She got my inner climber to get out and try climbing - and while I'm not practice climbing in a routine I'm trying to incorporate it in my training when I can. Hopefully I can get more into this, it is really fun! =)
thanks for the the pull ups idea
Impressive. Thx for sharing.
Cool video and congratulations on your bumping up through the grades; your hard work is paying off!
Awesome total body strength!! Especially arms and six pack abs on the rock rings.
Cant do half or even 1/10 of what you do.. Amazing. I climb a little and do some via ferattas in France.
Youre amazing. Cheers.
As an ageing climber with shoulder injuries I would urge you to do a lot more opposition pushing excersises.
One more thing I realized about the homemade rock rings. The position of your fingers in relation to the bolt coming out of the top of the softball (ie. bolt between any finger or to either side of all your fingers) makes a big difference. With the bolt between the index and middle finger or between the middle and ring fingers, gripping the softballs is easiest. positioning the bolt between the ring and little fingers or all fingers to either side of the bolt is more difficult.
WOW!! Very impressive. You go girl!
Galina,
Very inspiring, thanks for sharing. You mention a blog where you got the 100 Pull Up workout idea from. What was the name of it?
Thanks
Thank you for making this video! I'm training for climbing after a back injury (disc herniation) and this gives some awesome ideas on how to intensify my training routine :-)
Great stuff. Where could one buy something like the board she has above her door?
+Connor Anderson ebay, but they are expensive!
Congrats! impressive...could you give infos about the music a the beginning? thanks!
this is awesome, definitely encourages me to train more for climbing
I'm debating putting that in the next training video, but I don't know if people would find it interesting to watch.
If you're new to climbing, the best thing you can do is climb. Training wise, maybe do pull-ups on jugs one or two times a week (coupled with push-ups), and lock-offs on big holds (eg. when reaching for the next hold on an easy route or problem, hover over the hold for 3-5 seconds before grabbing it).
I've introduced many of your exercises into my workout schedule. And I feel results from it already thanks for making such a great video!
Thanks! The gym is Prime Climb in CT
It's one of the most rewarding jobs in the world! I would definitely suggest it
Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I'm just getting back into climbi g and have been asking around and looking for tips but everyone is like "climb more"
This is what I was looking for, thanks sis
I love this video, do you know other ways to get more finger strength as well as arm and back
strength for a beginner?
Great video! Thank you so much for this!
hi galina i was wondering if you could send me a link for your training routine on a chart? your routine is excellent and i want to be able to be a much better climber than i am now and this routine would definitely help
Hey that's the gym that I go to! Gotta love CT
That's an awesome training regime. Any tips for people who are new to climbing and trained for sports that are nothing like it from a muscle use stand point?
Awesome video. This should really help my training.
Great workout ideas, thanks for sharing :)
Great video. I like that you said you couldnt do any then after some weeks you could.
train every of your back and front muscles, while doing that train your core and lower muscles. It takes all the muscles in the body including hip adductor to split up and work together to get there. I tried doing upper only which was wrong now i do whole body training. It helps you do pull up better and easier.
Awesome! Looking forward to it.
Impressive, thank you!
Great work ...really enjoyed your vid. Good luck with your climbing :)
she's so calm. i can do a fair amount of pullups, but the struggle is blatantly obvious; my face can't remain expressionless like that.
ahh thank you so much, that really means a lot. I hope you get back into it!
amazing dedication and will
Great video and a true inspiration!! I would wish I can pull myself up like you. Sharing this video in my climbing group =)
I do antagonistic every other day, including push-ups, rows, dips, rear deltoid flys, bench presses, shoulder presses, and I's/T's/Y's. I focus more on shoulders than elbows though.
This is super inspirational. It makes me want to actually start training. Keep up the good videos!
No worries, most people have trouble with those first time around. I would just focus on the frenchies for now. Or you can try using a pulley system to take weight off (I'll have a segment on it in the next training vid)
just getting into it, like the workout
pretty inspiring video for training, looking forward to see your next :)
sick video and great info and quality, Have a good one!
Wow bravo that was one heck of a workout!
great video .. do you have your climbing workout typed out that i can print ? if so that would be great cause i would love to try it .. any help will be appreciated.
I believe the first workout moves you demonstrated on the rock rings are called "archers" but I could be wrong
this is incredible! i started climbing 3 months ago. can't wait to buy my hangboard! :)
I'm going away to college in two months... I climb now at a gym near my home, mostly bouldering. My workout consists of doing squats, and different lifts with weights. I want to utilize my four months living on campus by going to the rock gym there and really kicking ass. What kind of workout routine would you keep weekly if you could go to the gym whenever you wanted, had personal space (I usually do yoga here), and access to a multimillion dollar gym on campus?
Awesome c: Same as I told Keith, until your tendons are strong enough to handle more rigorous workouts (takes about 2 years), the best thing you can do is climb. Training wise, maybe do pull-ups on jugs one or two times a week (coupled with push-ups), and lock-offs on big holds (eg. when reaching for the next hold on an easy route or problem, hover over the hold for 3-5 seconds before grabbing it).
Sweet. Thanks, Galina :)
Wow the best climbing training video on youtube :D thanks a lot
Galina! I remember watching this so many years ago, you are amazing and your physique has changed so much and you just keep getting stronger and stronger!
What do you think was the biggest changes you made over the years?
Keep on keeping on!
I would start with regular pull-ups on a pull-up bar, alternating with push-ups. If you can't do a full pull-up, start with assisted ones (either with a rubber band for your feet or someone helping you up)
I find this wonderful. Thanks for sharing your stuff with the rest of the world. I would like to start climbing some day soon. I´ve been training bodyweight exercises for quite a bit and I have a good foundation. But maybe my bodyweight stops me from taking the decision to start no matter what...success and respect. Andrew!
thanks for the video and the inspiration. do you know where I can buy those round rock rings shown at the end of this video? i've seen the Metolius Rock Rings, but they are not spherical like the ones you use. thanks galina and congratulations on gusher! :)
you make pull ups look so easy!
Thx for this, its really good training (specialy good advice for begginers).