Great video just about to tie some for a friend on the east coast. I use spade hooks - pike & cultiva light. I tie as per japanese anglers secrets video on double assist hk tying. Since we have a 2 hk rule (per rod) in California, I splice loops into my bkk 150 lb or 280 lb blue hollow core with a crchet latch hook kit (online for like 8.00) then proceed with whipping. (8 or 10 lb braid also blue) & a 1/2 hitch at shank followed by a dot of instaflex glue on whipping. It seems to me the most ideal set up would be a custom hook set up for each & every jig. While some MAY be interchangeable, lure width & length will determine that. Learning what I have watching this has me leaning toward pre rigging ALL my jigs b4 setting out.
Hi Jim - Ideally, it would be nice to either select your jigs around your hook sizes or vise versa. Remember that some manufacturers either favor or create their own line of jigs, so as far as sizing goes, they will always match what is theirs. So having different jigs from different manufacturers and to get things right is a balancing act AND...you end up with a lot of hook sizes from different brands if you pre rig your own. The good thing is - when you actually find what works for your style, you pretty much stick to it and have everything you need.
My biggest question - what is shallow? 60 ft 80 ft 100 ft? I ask because I realy like tying assists with krystal flash & I add a fish skin product avail in sheets - dirt cheap that are very bright & highly irridescent. I cut these into a long, very thin "wing shape" & tie alongside the shank for a really nice look (like a sabiki but way more streamline & in my opinion much higher quality) but if 60 ft is the depth cut off for dressed assists I wont waste my time. Pls do let me know. Thx.
Good question! - really depends on "where" you are in the world. But generally below 100m would qualify for "shallow". The euphotic or sunlight zone ends at around 200m. So...using flash at that kind of depth or deeper would be useless since the flash doesnt really work, unless you put glow in the dark crystal flash, then it would be a different story. But for me, anything over 100m, I would not use flash, 90m as a safety measure of sorts. Of course, I have caught fish with assist hooks that have flash - totally up to you really. :) Having said that - assist hooks with no flash WILL hold fish better since the hooks without flash will tend to punch a smaller hole that will not grow bigger over time, while the ones with flash, will make a bigger hole, should the hook move past the flash closer to the eye or spade. Doesnt happen a lot, but I wouldn't want to risk it...hope that makes sense.
Here is a question for you. Ive been thinking about heat shrink tubing Vs. UV epoxy for protecting kevlar cord at the knot & bobbin wrapped cord below the knot along the hook shank. I'm thinking the epoxy would not only lock the knot but once hardened would also better protect against abrasion (teeth) than the rubber or the plastic shrink tubes and do it in a cleaner, lower profile coating. Curious to know what your opinion might be on this. Thanks.
using real slow cure epoxy is better. UV resin doesn't really penetrate. When I have a lot of time, I use this method, but since most if not all of the assist hooks are going to be damaged anyway, it is kind of a waste of time. learn to look at your assist hooks as consumables and IF and When you can, recycle the hooks, but even if your bindings survive, your cord won't really last.
Hi I have an idea for a video that doesn't exist anywhere. It is about the weight transfer of the jig during hooking, during a take. Everyone uses the assist hook but I feel not many people understand why it works so well. It is a principle that is known in the UK carp fishing scene with the boilie and hair rig. Known as an anti ejection rig. It is hard to write. But I will try. The weight of the jig is sucked in by the fish, the hooks follow the jig. The fish realises it is not food and spits the jig the hooks follow the jig. The weight of the jig will "turn" the hook over an edge, the fishes lips, and the weight helps the hook point prick the hook into the fish. The fish shakes its head against that and the weight of the Jig being shaken on the point of the hook helps it penetrate further. I hope that is clear. I feel like this gives me an edge when jigging, understanding of what is going on in a a bite. I cannot find anyone talking about this anywhere. I thought it might make an interesting video. I enjoyed this video it was well detailed. ia m a bit new to assists and it has cleared a few things for me, thanks. Subbed and liked.
this is actually what I simplify when I say the rear set doesn't need fluoro inserts, and why it needs to be longer. It works a bit different with jigs than it does with boilies and the rear hooks are the only ones to be able to do this. reason number two is that even fish like grouper that have big mouths and live on the bottom don't feed like carp (sucking and spitting things out). the front hooks can't really function the way the back does because if you put assist hooks with no FC inserts, it tends to snag your leader a lot. In any case, there are a lot of technical things that just fly over people's heads, sometimes, it's better to just simplify things and just answer (such as what we are doing now) when someone asks. You might want to watch the video I uploaded yesterday - about making slow jigging assist hooks - I mention the thing about no inserts and longer rear assist hooks there - again. :)
Last question. Promise. Figure 8 solid ring or ballbearing swivel & strong split ring? How do YOU rig the latter - seeing many differences depending on who you ask. Hers what I think is stealthiest strongest & simplest. Tie fluoro to 1 end of ballbearing swivel. With a spliced loop assist hook (no solid ring) hitch the hollow core loop end through bottom ring of swivel. Also add a splitring in this same liwer swivel ring. Now attach lure to split ring. I see no reason to add a solid ring in this configuration & this accomplishes same as figure 8 ring in a shorter stealthier configuration. What do you think?
Firstly Jim I am here to answer questions and help people - so please ask all you want - if I have an answer for it, I will give you an honest one. You know, there has been so many talks about this - and you are right, you get a lot of different answers. :) I am sure they all work, including what you are saying, which I have used before. Tell you what - Think about things a different way - rather than looking at these connections as something thats an end all for your rigging, try and look at HOW each actually affects the jig, if it increases an certain inherent action, or if it slows things down or it makes it do something else. This is one of the things I had to do in my previous job with the biggest tackle manufacturer in the world - I actually had to try and see what else something did when I put this and that - so I ended up with not one thing that "ends all" I ended up with a system I would use to fine tune lures - not just jigs. If you want to explore this further look for me on IG (same user name) and send me a DM and I can explain things there more effectively than in the comments here :D
Is it better to have the line connected to the split ring or eye of the jig directly . I was told better connect to split ring as it improves hookup rates,Is that true?
for slow jigs, its a separate solid ring connected to the split ring, then another solid ring that connects to the assist cord and hooks. Whoever told you to tie directly on the eye of the jig or the split ring does not know anything...no matter how much of an expert he says he is...nothing that comes out of his mouth should be followed when it comes to jigging.
Just reviewing your tips as I will be tying some assist hooks this morning for larger jigs for bluefin. I see you answered every 1 of my many questions & just wanted to say thanks. I would do this forca living if I could - half the fun of fishing is the prep.
Glad to help. This is why I do what I do James. Mostly an unsung task, but from time to time, I do get some thanks from guys like you...so it is very much appreciated.
great video thanks. a few questions pls- (i) what assist cord do you recommend? ive seen a ton of options online but no idea about softness/thickness, etc. (ii) does using kevlar for slow butterfly jigs affect the movement of the jig? (iii) im getting really burned out jigging 150g benthos on a Penn Spinfisher VI 6500- is that too heavy setup, do you recommend any specific spinning reel thanks
Hi, Eduardo. Assist chords - for fast jigging, I use Varivas SS Assist line, thickness depends on what you use them for, hook sizes, jig size etc. Assist hooks affect the jigs the hook up ratio, but if you put a 6/0 hook on a 20g jig, yes, it has an effect. Use hooks that have a gap that a little bit wider than the widest part of the body of the jig and you would be ok - use the thinnest strongest hooks you can get away with. Not a particular brand for the reel really, but probably one with a slower ratio. This is what kills most people - they use a high speed reel to jig. with fast jigging, you need a slow reel. If you need a good one to look at, check out the Biomaster from Shimano, depends on you what size it would be for your fishing, but the Biomaster range has a Power Gear (PG) model and wont break the bank.
Thanks TheFishingKit for making this video. Question is, do you prefer using smaller size of solid ring, split ring or swivels? What size of lbs you can recommend for jig weight 150g to 250g?
Dan, I usually base my solid ring and split ring sizes according to the jig, if it lays flat on the back (horizontal eyes), then any size will do, and I also consider movement for the jig, so even if I can get away with a smaller solid ring, I would put a bigger one so the movement doesn't get restricted. For your reference, you can start with your line strength and triple that...round it off to the nearest 10 and find a solid ring closest in strength. Double in strength for the split rings, this is a rough guide, but should get you in the ball park.
Interesting video, thanks for sharing. In the past I did run into some (I guess) Wahoo. The hooks got cut of all the time, even using really heavy kevlar line (I think 300lb). Anyway, I have seen your video on using single strand wire for assist hooks. I'm thinking to do something like that but with a much thinner single strand stainless wire (100lb 0.55mm) using haywire twists for connections. Have you ever tried that, if yes, what is your experience?
if you want them short, it is difficult to make the twists, but otherwise, they work. I have to use thick wire to be able to make the wire show up on video, otherwise, it is difficult for people to see, normally, 80-100lb wire. I think I mentioned it on the video as well.l
@@TheFishingKit Thanks for your reaction, this thin wire is relatively cheap and doesn't need any special tools.... I'm going to give if it a try. Tight lines!
Buddy, do you know which thickness or diameter or strength ideal for the assist kevlar? would it be any problem if im using too thick assist kevlar line? Thanks
depends on what you are going to use it for. There are cords made for fast jigging, and there are cords made for slow jigging - and each of them have corresponding sizes you can use for different hook sizes.
@@TheFishingKit thanks for your feedback buddy, i use hook with ring eye for slow jigging, what thickness / strenght would you suggest for 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0. would it be any problem if i use too thick assist line kevlar? Thanks!
@@lifeoverdrive Slow jigging assist hooks require a flouro carbon insert inside the cord, this gives you a spring action to snag and to keep the hooks from tangling. I think you should watch the Assist hook making videos I have in the channel to have a better understanding on how to build them - there is at least one video where I discuss the sizes I use and why - making assist hooks is a custom "job" it depends on quite a few things.
I bought the wrong type of assist hooks.....could I put two single assist hooks with their individual solid rings together onto a jig and use it like a double assist hook or will that cause a lot of tangling to occur?
Jeez. I feel like I just sat thru an advanced college lecture on fish hooks. I had no idea about practically any of this. I just assumed a hook was a hook. Nicely done. The problem is..Ya kinda screwed me, cause now I gotta go study fish hooks and how jigs are constructed. Dammit man. I've been red pilled.
hi thanks for the video Why slow jigs mostly dont have hooks at the end. They have assist hooks on the top only Why not to use treble hooks at the end?
Slow jigs mostly have assist hooks at both ends. I don't know where you see slow jigs only having them up front. You can use trebles on short jigs, but not on long jigs.
Boss very good content. Asking for guidance, what size do you recommend for assist hooks for 300gg slow jig (like shimano deep liner profile) to be used for Fujariah? Is it a pike 4/0 or 5/0? And varivas assist cord to match also. Will it be a 30(150lb) or a 40 (200lb) Daghang salamat.
Thanks for all these good vids!! Pls keep them coming! I wanted to know what you consider shallow? You mentioned that the tazzles on the hooks work best in shallow water is that < 100m?
Hi Mr. Kit, thanks for the explanation. It's a good start for me to make my own assist And I have a question when you talked about Kevlar and Dyneema What is the difference between Kevlar, Dyneema, and Braided Line for making assist? I mean here the material and durability, not hollow or corded and what do you advise me to start with? To make assist for jigs max 20 G light setup and max 40g for medium heavy setup
@@TheFishingKit Thanks my mentor and Yes, I understand, but I saw on AliExpress the JK brand offering hollow cor Braided Line and also Kevlar with braided line cor, That's make me confusing and make me asking I'm still a beginner🙂
A Car is a generic term...like braided line. Toyota is a brand and nissan is a brand of car. Kevlar is a brand of raw material, dyneema is a brand of raw material...both of them can be made into......braided line.@@tamerabdelaziz.
Have you ever put some assist hooks on a big flutter spoon for saltwater kinda like how some bass fisherman do for larger spoons ? I have been throwing 3oz spoons at a pair of jetties that are about 40-50 ft deep and was thinking that they might help on the hookup ratio , on behalf that the treble hook in the back is so far from the main line tie at the front. Wasn’t sure if it will affect the flutter / spin though .
This could be tricky, as the assist hooks might snag the spoon - coz of the movement of the spoon. I have tried them on other spoons types (Krocks and Kastmasters and they have worked, but these spoons were heavier and the assist hooks were custom made for them.
Hi Sanjiv, thats youtube. it doesnt only happen to my channel, it actually happens with quite a few. I will talk to youtube about how to fix this. thanks for the feedback.
Hi there mate, at 09:57 you start discussing where to tie the assist cord relative to the top or bottom of the hook shank. So for pike hooks and such, you tie the cord at the bottom part of the shank. However for hooks with eyes don't you go from under the eye and tie the cord on the top part of the shank. The black hook you're holding with the red cord seems to be tied that way.
Made me miss jigging! Thanks again for sharing what you know. Always learn something new watching your vids. 👍🏼👏🏻
Thanks bro!!!
Great video just about to tie some for a friend on the east coast. I use spade hooks - pike & cultiva light. I tie as per japanese anglers secrets video on double assist hk tying. Since we have a 2 hk rule (per rod) in California, I splice loops into my bkk 150 lb or 280 lb blue hollow core with a crchet latch hook kit (online for like 8.00) then proceed with whipping. (8 or 10 lb braid also blue) & a 1/2 hitch at shank followed by a dot of instaflex glue on whipping. It seems to me the most ideal set up would be a custom hook set up for each & every jig. While some MAY be interchangeable, lure width & length will determine that. Learning what I have watching this has me leaning toward pre rigging ALL my jigs b4 setting out.
Hi Jim - Ideally, it would be nice to either select your jigs around your hook sizes or vise versa. Remember that some manufacturers either favor or create their own line of jigs, so as far as sizing goes, they will always match what is theirs. So having different jigs from different manufacturers and to get things right is a balancing act AND...you end up with a lot of hook sizes from different brands if you pre rig your own. The good thing is - when you actually find what works for your style, you pretty much stick to it and have everything you need.
Can you recommend a Japanese video to watch on how to tie assist hooks in traditional style?
My biggest question - what is shallow? 60 ft 80 ft 100 ft? I ask because I realy like tying assists with krystal flash & I add a fish skin product avail in sheets - dirt cheap that are very bright & highly irridescent. I cut these into a long, very thin "wing shape" & tie alongside the shank for a really nice look (like a sabiki but way more streamline & in my opinion much higher quality) but if 60 ft is the depth cut off for dressed assists I wont waste my time. Pls do let me know. Thx.
Good question! - really depends on "where" you are in the world. But generally below 100m would qualify for "shallow".
The euphotic or sunlight zone ends at around 200m. So...using flash at that kind of depth or deeper would be useless since the flash doesnt really work, unless you put glow in the dark crystal flash, then it would be a different story. But for me, anything over 100m, I would not use flash, 90m as a safety measure of sorts. Of course, I have caught fish with assist hooks that have flash - totally up to you really. :) Having said that - assist hooks with no flash WILL hold fish better since the hooks without flash will tend to punch a smaller hole that will not grow bigger over time, while the ones with flash, will make a bigger hole, should the hook move past the flash closer to the eye or spade. Doesnt happen a lot, but I wouldn't want to risk it...hope that makes sense.
Big thanks 🤝
2 baby GT and 1 Grouper landed
Keep sharing
Warmest regards from Indonesia ❤
Keep it up
Here is a question for you. Ive been thinking about heat shrink tubing Vs. UV epoxy for protecting kevlar cord at the knot & bobbin wrapped cord below the knot along the hook shank. I'm thinking the epoxy would not only lock the knot but once hardened would also better protect against abrasion (teeth) than the rubber or the plastic shrink tubes and do it in a cleaner, lower profile coating. Curious to know what your opinion might be on this. Thanks.
using real slow cure epoxy is better. UV resin doesn't really penetrate. When I have a lot of time, I use this method, but since most if not all of the assist hooks are going to be damaged anyway, it is kind of a waste of time. learn to look at your assist hooks as consumables and IF and When you can, recycle the hooks, but even if your bindings survive, your cord won't really last.
Good stuff (content) !!! Thanks...
Welcome Aboard! Glad you enjoyed it! More in there, just browse! :)
Hi I have an idea for a video that doesn't exist anywhere. It is about the weight transfer of the jig during hooking, during a take. Everyone uses the assist hook but I feel not many people understand why it works so well. It is a principle that is known in the UK carp fishing scene with the boilie and hair rig. Known as an anti ejection rig. It is hard to write. But I will try. The weight of the jig is sucked in by the fish, the hooks follow the jig. The fish realises it is not food and spits the jig the hooks follow the jig. The weight of the jig will "turn" the hook over an edge, the fishes lips, and the weight helps the hook point prick the hook into the fish. The fish shakes its head against that and the weight of the Jig being shaken on the point of the hook helps it penetrate further. I hope that is clear. I feel like this gives me an edge when jigging, understanding of what is going on in a a bite. I cannot find anyone talking about this anywhere. I thought it might make an interesting video. I enjoyed this video it was well detailed. ia m a bit new to assists and it has cleared a few things for me, thanks. Subbed and liked.
this is actually what I simplify when I say the rear set doesn't need fluoro inserts, and why it needs to be longer. It works a bit different with jigs than it does with boilies and the rear hooks are the only ones to be able to do this. reason number two is that even fish like grouper that have big mouths and live on the bottom don't feed like carp (sucking and spitting things out). the front hooks can't really function the way the back does because if you put assist hooks with no FC inserts, it tends to snag your leader a lot.
In any case, there are a lot of technical things that just fly over people's heads, sometimes, it's better to just simplify things and just answer (such as what we are doing now) when someone asks. You might want to watch the video I uploaded yesterday - about making slow jigging assist hooks - I mention the thing about no inserts and longer rear assist hooks there - again. :)
Last question. Promise. Figure 8 solid ring or ballbearing swivel & strong split ring? How do YOU rig the latter - seeing many differences depending on who you ask. Hers what I think is stealthiest strongest & simplest. Tie fluoro to 1 end of ballbearing swivel. With a spliced loop assist hook (no solid ring) hitch the hollow core loop end through bottom ring of swivel. Also add a splitring in this same liwer swivel ring. Now attach lure to split ring. I see no reason to add a solid ring in this configuration & this accomplishes same as figure 8 ring in a shorter stealthier configuration. What do you think?
Firstly Jim I am here to answer questions and help people - so please ask all you want - if I have an answer for it, I will give you an honest one.
You know, there has been so many talks about this - and you are right, you get a lot of different answers. :) I am sure they all work, including what you are saying, which I have used before. Tell you what - Think about things a different way - rather than looking at these connections as something thats an end all for your rigging, try and look at HOW each actually affects the jig, if it increases an certain inherent action, or if it slows things down or it makes it do something else. This is one of the things I had to do in my previous job with the biggest tackle manufacturer in the world - I actually had to try and see what else something did when I put this and that - so I ended up with not one thing that "ends all" I ended up with a system I would use to fine tune lures - not just jigs. If you want to explore this further look for me on IG (same user name) and send me a DM and I can explain things there more effectively than in the comments here :D
Is it better to have the line connected to the split ring or eye of the jig directly . I was told better connect to split ring as it improves hookup rates,Is that true?
for slow jigs, its a separate solid ring connected to the split ring, then another solid ring that connects to the assist cord and hooks. Whoever told you to tie directly on the eye of the jig or the split ring does not know anything...no matter how much of an expert he says he is...nothing that comes out of his mouth should be followed when it comes to jigging.
Just reviewing your tips as I will be tying some assist hooks this morning for larger jigs for bluefin. I see you answered every 1 of my many questions & just wanted to say thanks. I would do this forca living if I could - half the fun of fishing is the prep.
Glad to help. This is why I do what I do James. Mostly an unsung task, but from time to time, I do get some thanks from guys like you...so it is very much appreciated.
great video thanks. a few questions pls-
(i) what assist cord do you recommend? ive seen a ton of options online but no idea about softness/thickness, etc.
(ii) does using kevlar for slow butterfly jigs affect the movement of the jig?
(iii) im getting really burned out jigging 150g benthos on a Penn Spinfisher VI 6500- is that too heavy setup, do you recommend any specific spinning reel thanks
Hi, Eduardo.
Assist chords - for fast jigging, I use Varivas SS Assist line, thickness depends on what you use them for, hook sizes, jig size etc.
Assist hooks affect the jigs the hook up ratio, but if you put a 6/0 hook on a 20g jig, yes, it has an effect. Use hooks that have a gap that a little bit wider than the widest part of the body of the jig and you would be ok - use the thinnest strongest hooks you can get away with.
Not a particular brand for the reel really, but probably one with a slower ratio. This is what kills most people - they use a high speed reel to jig. with fast jigging, you need a slow reel.
If you need a good one to look at, check out the Biomaster from Shimano, depends on you what size it would be for your fishing, but the Biomaster range has a Power Gear (PG) model and wont break the bank.
Hey man. I really appreciate this video. Probably the most to the point - informative video on assist hooks and pitch jigs. Ty Ty
Cheers!
starting to lern fast ang slow jigging.. i have an 60grm ang 100grs lure what #hook that i used for both.. thanks
Thanks for the comment. Not sure if you were asking a question or not.
Can someone explain the purpose of this, why not just put the hook directly onto the lure with the split ring?
Fish cant shake off assist hooks while with regular attachments they can use the hook pegged against the lure for leverage to shale off.
Thanks TheFishingKit for making this video. Question is, do you prefer using smaller size of solid ring, split ring or swivels? What size of lbs you can recommend for jig weight 150g to 250g?
Dan, I usually base my solid ring and split ring sizes according to the jig, if it lays flat on the back (horizontal eyes), then any size will do, and I also consider movement for the jig, so even if I can get away with a smaller solid ring, I would put a bigger one so the movement doesn't get restricted. For your reference, you can start with your line strength and triple that...round it off to the nearest 10 and find a solid ring closest in strength. Double in strength for the split rings, this is a rough guide, but should get you in the ball park.
Where can I find wired assist hooks? awesome video!!!
you either make them or buy them.
Interesting video, thanks for sharing. In the past I did run into some (I guess) Wahoo. The hooks got cut of all the time, even using really heavy kevlar line (I think 300lb). Anyway, I have seen your video on using single strand wire for assist hooks. I'm thinking to do something like that but with a much thinner single strand stainless wire (100lb 0.55mm) using haywire twists for connections. Have you ever tried that, if yes, what is your experience?
if you want them short, it is difficult to make the twists, but otherwise, they work. I have to use thick wire to be able to make the wire show up on video, otherwise, it is difficult for people to see, normally, 80-100lb wire. I think I mentioned it on the video as well.l
@@TheFishingKit Thanks for your reaction, this thin wire is relatively cheap and doesn't need any special tools.... I'm going to give if it a try. Tight lines!
@@robertdejonge3607 go get them! :)
Pwede vah gamitin pang jigging ung medium light set up boss?
there are specific rods for jigging. not all rods can be used for jigging.
Buddy, do you know which thickness or diameter or strength ideal for the assist kevlar? would it be any problem if im using too thick assist kevlar line? Thanks
depends on what you are going to use it for. There are cords made for fast jigging, and there are cords made for slow jigging - and each of them have corresponding sizes you can use for different hook sizes.
@@TheFishingKit thanks for your feedback buddy, i use hook with ring eye for slow jigging, what thickness / strenght would you suggest for 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0. would it be any problem if i use too thick assist line kevlar? Thanks!
@@lifeoverdrive Slow jigging assist hooks require a flouro carbon insert inside the cord, this gives you a spring action to snag and to keep the hooks from tangling. I think you should watch the Assist hook making videos I have in the channel to have a better understanding on how to build them - there is at least one video where I discuss the sizes I use and why - making assist hooks is a custom "job" it depends on quite a few things.
For 20-30gr Slow jigs which hook size should we choose ( xesta Slow bee, daiwa slow samurai etc.. )
The easiest way is to look at the width of the jig and match your hook GAP with the width of whatever jig you have.
I bought the wrong type of assist hooks.....could I put two single assist hooks with their individual solid rings together onto a jig and use it like a double assist hook or will that cause a lot of tangling to occur?
not advisable. if you are fast jigging, you can just use one hook. tangling will be an issue if you put two together.
@@TheFishingKit thank you for your help sir!
😀
Jeez. I feel like I just sat thru an advanced college lecture on fish hooks. I had no idea about practically any of this. I just assumed a hook was a hook. Nicely done.
The problem is..Ya kinda screwed me, cause now I gotta go study fish hooks and how jigs are constructed. Dammit man. I've been red pilled.
Or.. you can blundly follow what the gurus teach. :) just buy their wares and all is good 🤣
hi
thanks for the video
Why slow jigs mostly dont have hooks at the end. They have assist hooks on the top only
Why not to use treble hooks at the end?
Slow jigs mostly have assist hooks at both ends.
I don't know where you see slow jigs only having them up front. You can use trebles on short jigs, but not on long jigs.
@@TheFishingKit in Aliexpress, mostly heavy slow jigs are with hooks at the end
Do you ever use a short wire leader off of the jig? Do you think it effects the jig action? We have lots of Ono/Wahoo here..
you can try putting around a 3-6 inch section at the end, as well as making assist hooks corded with wire, but it will affect the action.
@@TheFishingKit Thank you for the reply. Your videos are very helpful. Subscribed today. Glad I found your channel.
Welcomr aboard!!!
what about ultra heavy fishing?
Sifu, if you find something new, I am sure you will share :D
Nice
Thanks :)
Boss very good content. Asking for guidance, what size do you recommend for assist hooks for 300gg slow jig (like shimano deep liner profile) to be used for Fujariah? Is it a pike 4/0 or 5/0? And varivas assist cord to match also. Will it be a 30(150lb) or a 40 (200lb)
Daghang salamat.
Check the video where I make an assist hook.
Thanks for all these good vids!! Pls keep them coming!
I wanted to know what you consider shallow? You mentioned that the tazzles on the hooks work best in shallow water is that < 100m?
Hi Rob, up to the depth where you can use PG reels for slow jigging in shallow water, so would be max 60m, or around 200 feet.
How do you select size for slow pitch jig hooks? I saw the measurement for fast jigs, but slow pitch uses 2 hooks.
Check out my other assist hook videos - I discuss how in quite a few of them.
Hi Mr. Kit, thanks for the explanation. It's a good start for me to make my own assist
And I have a question when you talked about Kevlar and Dyneema
What is the difference between Kevlar, Dyneema, and Braided Line for making assist? I mean here the material and durability, not hollow or corded and what do you advise me to start with? To make assist for jigs max 20 G light setup and max 40g for medium heavy setup
kevlar and dymeema are brands of the same thing - braided line.
@@TheFishingKit
Thanks my mentor and Yes, I understand, but I saw on AliExpress the JK brand offering hollow cor Braided Line and also Kevlar with braided line cor, That's make me confusing and make me asking
I'm still a beginner🙂
I mean, the same brand offers a Kevlar line and Braided Line also
How can this be?
I suggest you watch a few jig rigging videos because all the answers you are looking for are there
A Car is a generic term...like braided line. Toyota is a brand and nissan is a brand of car. Kevlar is a brand of raw material, dyneema is a brand of raw material...both of them can be made into......braided line.@@tamerabdelaziz.
Have you ever put some assist hooks on a big flutter spoon for saltwater kinda like how some bass fisherman do for larger spoons ? I have been throwing 3oz spoons at a pair of jetties that are about 40-50 ft deep and was thinking that they might help on the hookup ratio , on behalf that the treble hook in the back is so far from the main line tie at the front. Wasn’t sure if it will affect the flutter / spin though .
This could be tricky, as the assist hooks might snag the spoon - coz of the movement of the spoon.
I have tried them on other spoons types (Krocks and Kastmasters and they have worked, but these spoons were heavier and the assist hooks were custom made for them.
Nice video! What size do you think is good for double hook? I’m using 60- 80gram jig.
depends on the shape of the jig.
I have learned so much from your videos. Thank you very much. Keep the videos coming. Tight lines
More to come!
Text come on images..
Please ensure in next videos
Video was really cool thx
Hi Sanjiv, thats youtube. it doesnt only happen to my channel, it actually happens with quite a few. I will talk to youtube about how to fix this. thanks for the feedback.
Where can I get or buy the assist cord ?
most tackle shops that carry jigging stuff sell them.
Thank You
Hi there mate, at 09:57 you start discussing where to tie the assist cord relative to the top or bottom of the hook shank. So for pike hooks and such, you tie the cord at the bottom part of the shank. However for hooks with eyes don't you go from under the eye and tie the cord on the top part of the shank. The black hook you're holding with the red cord seems to be tied that way.
I believe this question has been clarified in the other comment thread.
Great video man thanks
Thanks 👍
Thank you! I learned a lot, i subbed and gave like.
Thanks!
Do you ship to Lebanon?
I don't sell.
@@TheFishingKit Okay, thank you for your amazing tutorials
Hello, do you prefer barrel swivel or the 8 ring to attach the jig to please?
Depends on what you want to accomplish, rather than thinking of which one is better, look at it as a system that works for your needs.
@@TheFishingKit ok will try the barrel swivel today
Clear explanation 👍
Glad you liked it
great video, so more info, keep it coming.
Thanks, will do!
great info
Glad it was helpful!
muita sabedoria vou ter que ver muitas vezes,gostaria de saber mais sobre os fios a usar
de quais fios você quer dizer, o grosso ou o fino?
@@TheFishingKit os fios a usar para os assist hook de jigs ate 40g,obrigado abraço
@@jorgerodrigues7056 pode usar até 100 libras